anyways, for all you young folks out there feeling pressured to buy make up to cover up acne, redness or anything that’s making you feel insecure: invest in skin care instead! although makeup can provide you with a quick fix, it does little to keep your skin healthy and clean. in fact there are studies that show that makeup can actually damage your skin over time because it clogs pores, creating a buildup of bacteria that can lead to breakouts, irritation, etc. whereas skincare products are made to help you keep your skin clean, healthy and glowy.
this is not to say you should steer clear of makeup because makeup can be pretty fun and cute but establishing a good skincare routine before getting into makeup will actually be much more helpful to your skin and help you out in the case that a makeup product does cause a breakout. also, skin care will save you more money in the end! so yeah, invest in skin care!
hi, i’m sorry to hear you had to quit differin! i have winter skin recommendations here, but it seems like you’re already pretty much doing all of them. to me, it sounds like the issue isn’t lack of moisture, but rather your skin’s inability to hold onto it due to a damaged barrier function caused by the adverse reaction. ideally, you’ll have to treat your skin cautiously, as though it is very sensitive: fewer products that are very gentle and nourishing, featuring not only humectants to deliver the necessary moisture but also emollients to soften the dry textured skin and occlusives to trap hydration inside the skin. consider choosing a moisturizer that’s rich in ceramides and natural moisturizing factors (NMFs); one of my best friends swears by ceramide-based products to deal with dryness/dehydration. other emollients you can use include rosehip oil (especially good if you have acne-prone skin, which if you were on differin i assume is the case) and squalane (a component that occurs naturally in our skin barrier).
if these changes still don’t help and you definitely know the vitamin C is exacerbating your irritation, consider either going for a lower % vit C product, or picking up an azelaic acid product. azelaic acid is used to address not only hyperpigmentation but also redness and rosacea, and is often recommended to acne sufferers. one cult product with azelaic acid is the paula’s choice 10% azelaic acid booster, but the ordinary also has a 10% AA product that, albeit somewhat cosmetically inelegant, gave me great results in fighting redness and pigmentation.
if problems persist, definitely speak to your derm about it!
hello! all those issues can be improved with a combination of acid exfoliation and moisturizing. you don’t need to overdo your routine, it’s best to keep it simple as teenage skin tends to be very reactive and your needs will be changing fast. here’s an outline of what i would recommend:
- cleansing: a gentle, low-pH cleanser (gel, milk, cream, your choice). a cult favourite from french skincare is the la roche-posay tolériane, but there are many more out there to choose from. if you wear makeup, you may want to use an oil or balm cleanser beforehand in the evening.
- actives: this is your exfoliation step. i have a list of recommended products here. the BHA will help with the appearance of your pores and the AHAs will deal with texture and any flakiness. start off slow and infrequently, and work up to higher concentrations and more regular use. for this step the products can be toners, mists, or serums.
- moisturizer: again, best to keep it simple with something that’s not too complicated. take a look at my moisturizer masterpost for a better idea on how to choose the perfect one for you. if your dry skin is acting up, you can combat it by adding a couple of drops of your facial oil of choice (i generally recommend rose hip oil or squalane).
- sunscreen: non negotiable every morning, no matter the weather. here’s my sunscreen masterpost for more info on that.
i’m not certain of the ingredients on the toner, but i’d keep your routine very minimal for the duration of the healing process. that means cleansing gently (the cosrx one should be fine), moisturizing (with a very basic no-frills moisturizer; either something nourishing like the NMF by the ordinary or a wound-healing promoter like the mizon snail gel cream, my old-time love - which one you’ll prefer will depend on your overall skin type) and applying sunscreen (very important to avoid hyperpigmentation, though if applying sunscreen on the wounds concerns you an alternative that i recommend is to keep them covered with hydrocolloid patches like the cosrx acne ones, just make sure they’re simple hydrocolloid dressings and not the type that contains actives like salicylic acid which could irritate the area. these sorts of patches are well known to speed up wound recovery and reduce the incidence of scarring!)
if anything throughout the healing process seems off, get in touch with the clinic or a dermatologist and check what they recommend. best of luck!
as a general rule, in my experience, sunscreens based on mineral UV filters are more matte than those based on organic filters. the organic molecules can be tricky to solubilize and often require a not inconsiderable amount of oil to do so, creating the dreaded greasy sunscreen. formulation innovations like encapsulation, new emulsion techniques, etc. have helped us improve on this a lot, and that’s a lucky thing since organic filters have big advantages over mineral ones (no white cast, better UVA protection). however, it isn’t a 100% perfected area yet.
from all the sunscreens i’ve used, the most mattifying was the face shop eco natural sun photogenic sun blur spf 50+/PA+++. that one worked really well as a primer or even as a ‘blur filter’ on no-makeup days. i’ve been waiting for the purito centella unscented one in the mail also, i’ll get back to y’all on how greasy or otherwise it feels.
as for whether SPF-containing foundation would be a replacement, in short: no. there are very few foundations that offer SPF over 30, and the amount that is applied even by a heavy makeup user is usually not enough to guarantee the labelled SPF value (if you applied the standard amount used in testing your makeup would look incredibly cakey). that being said, i do think foundation with SPF is a great idea in addition to a proper sunscreen, because none of us really ever use as much sunscreen as we should, and therefore layering products with UV filters can help us patch up that protective layer. to be clear, if you wear sunscreen of SPF 30 and add a foundation of SPF 15, the total SPF is still 30 and not 45 - only in a more thorough layer that is less likely to be underapplied or missing spots.
1) i don’t see why not, if you know your skin’s usually fine with both products individually. the emolliency of the oil can help keep your face from becoming overly dry and flaky after the peel, and the antioxidants can work to protect it from any subsequent damage.
2) i’ve previously talked about black soap before, personally i’m not too hyped about that sort of product. let me explain the ingredients list a little: the lye (which is a caustic material like potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide; it’s also contained in the plantain skins) reacts fully with the oils, causing them to break down into detergent molecules in a process known as saponification (literally, soap-making). the surfactants obtained through this are a big mix, and reportedly less stripping, but i’m yet to find a definitive source on this.
the pH tends to be too alkaline for modern recommendations for cleansers, which usually are a slightly acidic pH of 4.5-5.5. however, as i mentioned previously, black soap has cultural significance and a dedicated following that works as empirical proof that it does work for some. in this particular instance, i’d be wary if you have dry or dehydrated skin, and also if you have any particular propensity towards acne; the high pH as well as the presence of cocoa butter are not usually very well tolerated by the pimple-prone, and in that case i would not recommend using this product.
You’ll be seeing me soon over at Camille Rose Beauty - hmhmmmm I’ll be taking over their IG stories very soon to offer some insight into skincare, product selections and makeup. Head over to their page and give them a follow, content will be coming out on March 1st so stay tuned!!