crustbikes

[crustbikes]

A carriage road tour of the resplendent fall colourés of #nutmegcountry , Martha Stewarts home state! 

an instagram paced ride, with 3 timed (2 down, 1 up) grandé randuro sectors mixed in.  if you think thats totally stupid, then you don’t have to do it.  so this event is essentially bringing peace between the war torn and ragged worlds of racers and recliners, as only the true blonde Jesus of cycling would have the heart to do!

so when we finish the ride (69.420 kilometers (likely), 4,000 ft of climbing), we will reconvene at the meet up (as of now its the Clinton town beach).  that could change, hence the “”, but the town beach is good.  it has public restrooms, a parking lot for your car for the day (like 20 spots?), and pavilions. 

so at the finish we will have artisanal pizzas being wood fired in an imported oven by one of my favorite guest chefs:::  also fine drinks, crust bikes demos, exclusive crust bikes deals (for real!), and really good bike and bike parts flea market (if only between myself Belmar Bikes and Mr Shredward) (but seriously, bring some stuff to sell, and cash to buy… gonna be some nice stuff for good deals!).

after the party thing (around 6:30?) I will be leading a group to go camping about 10 miles away.  so if you can’t get home or whatever, and just wanna camp, bring yer camp stuff and stash it in yer car or someone els’se car (if you took the train from NYC *hint hint)::: do the ride, come back, gourmet party and buy tons of shit you don’t need (but need sooooo bad), then ride out to a fire in the woods to go camping on the ground with bugs and stuff.  or just drive home and get a shower and chair massage before lulling into a deep and restful sleep lofted atop your organic buckwheat hulled mattress with your lavender mister on all night.  either way.  

so please pre reg here so I have a good handle on how many to expect.  that will help with how many pizza rounds I need to tell my guest chef to make, and how much coffee I need to buy to provide you with elegant pour overs the morning of with complimentary “poppi’s cooking” provided in the price of your reg fee.  bring some cash for pizza and beer.  but the prices will be reasonable, unlike my web store. ;)

[crustbikes]

Internation Kook exchange program. 

#crustbikes #bikepacking

[crustbikes]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sDxgdhs5uFI

#donovan rice #crustbikes #crust bikes #bike packing

[crustbikes]

[crustbikes]

For my information on this event head to http://graveleur.cc

#graveleur #gravel grinding #thunderboltsadventure #crustbikes #satanicrando

[crustbikes]

Here we have Darrens Dreamer frame. These frames are made in L.A and are selling for a steal at $1450.00 more info on the website.

From the top-Salsa Cowbell 2 handlebars

Crust 80mm fillet brazed 

stemCane Creek 110 headsetHope 

Pro 4 hubs laced to Velocity Blunt 35 rims

XD driver bodySram 10-42 cassette

Sram Force 22 right (Force 1 left) hydraulic brake/shifter lever

Sram Force Calipers

Sram Rival 1 long cage derailleur

WTB Bee-Line 2.2" tires (measures 2.35")

White Industries G30 crankset with 34 tooth chainring

Thomson Elite seatpost

WTB Rocket saddle

TerribleOne bar end plugs

#crust bikes #satanicrando

[crustbikes]

The Stubby cassette

Specifically for ScapeGoat, but should work for Surly BigFatDummy, and other chainline-impacted fat-bikes.

With Plus sized tires you can run any 1x  gear setup you want on your ScapeGoat; but if you want to go full Fat, options are more limited: Internal gears (Rohloff), or single speed; being the easiest set ups. Derailleur style external gears are possible however, but only with a custom cassette.

There is just enough room for 7 cogs, at 11-speed spacing (or 6 at 9-10 speed spacing, and 5 at 8-speed spacing) and I’m working on producing a wide-range short-cassette to sell; but for now you’ll have to build your own. There's a lot of ways to do it, a few of which I'll cover in this how-to (all at 11-speed spacing).

But let's start with the rest of the drive train and work up to the cassette mod. To begin with, you need a really wide chain line, as wide as possible (I’ve got another article about all that) at least 58mm, but wider is better (either Surly OD cranks (using only the outer ring), @60mm CL; or a triple with a single ring in the outer position WITH 2+mm spacers between the spider and chainring, 61mm or so CL(as close as possible to the crank arm), are good options).

Now the derailleur:

If you want indexed gears, there is only one option; a Shimano shadowX derailleur (medium cage)with a WolfTooth ‘GoatLink 11’  (which will work with any compatible Shimano 11-speed shifter) as shown in the header(no other der I’ve tried will fit).

If like me, you prefer friction shifting, any pre-11-speed derailleur will do, though if you want wide range (as I do) you will need to use a WolfTooth ‘road-link’ to clear the big granny rings.

Ok this is the fun part:

My ideal, Stubby (short wide-range) cassette goes 11, 15, 19, 24, 30, 36, 42, and I've put more than a thousand loaded mountain/desert miles on just such a cassette. The wide gear range is important to me, and the wider-than-industry-standard steps between gears actually suit my riding style; but sourcing, and deconstructing the parts to build one is a little involved; so I’ll start with other, more straightforward options first.

option 1: The easiest move is to put an 11 speed cassette on and 11 speed freehub body, and use the derailleur limit screws to keep it from reaching the 4 lowest gears. The obvious problem with this method is that for all your fancy parts you end up with quite a limited range 11-24/25 depending on your cassette of choice. (this is what Surly recommends doing on their BigFatDummy -- not worth it in my opinion)

option2: SRAM makes a (Shimano) standard freehub compatible 11- 42 11-speed cassette composed (almost) entirely of discrete cogs: the PG-1130 11-42, which is easy to play mix and match with. You can start with a Shimano compatible 11-speed, 8-10 speed, or short cassette hub of your choice (I prefer the Hope Trials/Single Speed hub) add some spacers, remove 4 cogs, and put it together.  The choices are limited, because the 3 largest cogs are inseparably connected (you could conceivably remove the two largest and substitute a WolfTooth or similar 46T(or 42) but l havent tried it) the best combo I’ve found (without modifying anything) goes 11,13,17, 25, 32, 36, 42(which has pretty uneven steps between gears).  Unless you are friction shifting* (and don't mind slightly uneven lever movement)  In which case 11,15, 19, 25, 32, 36, 42 should work (and is a much better gear progression)

*The first and 2nd position cogs on all (shimano type) cassettes are specially shaped -- the 1st position having a built in xtra-long spacer, which fits into a recess in the 2nd position cog.  If you get rid of the 13t cog, with the special recess, the spacing between the 1st and 2nd gears will be wrong (and impossible to index) but not functionally problematic with friction shifting. You could also modify the 1st position cog, or source a 15t 2nd position cog -- but both of those options are more advanced/costly.

option 3: This is the cassette I’m riding currently, and has the same steps and range as the one I'm trying to produce. (sorry no pics, yet, I'll take some next time l make one)  It starts with a Microshift CS-H110 11-42 cassette.  These are harder to take apart: you have to grind/drill off the heads of the rivets that hold the cassette together. And then carefully disassemble it. Then grind/drill the rivets holding the 32t cog to the 36t and 42t cogs.  Now you have to source a 30t cog -- I got mine from a SRAM 10 speed cassette l had around, but you can also order them from (clemenzo.com). The last decision to make is what to do about the 1st/2nd position cog problem. I opted to grind the extra length off the 1st position cog, but a better solution would be to source a 15t 2nd position cog (also available from clemenzo).

Now all you have to do do is put it back together 42, 36, 30 (from somewhere else) 24, 19, 15 (ideally special 2nd position) 11 (maybe modify).

In all cases the gears want to sit *as far* outboard on the freehub-body as possible, so add spacers behind the cassette (l have ~5mm of spacers behind my cassette on my Hope short free hub body) untill you can just barely get the lock ring to engage.

Good Luck

and let me know if you come up with a better way, or source of cogs.

[email protected]

[crustbikes]

On cranks and clearances

scapegoat compatibility

This got a little long -- skip to the end for cliff-notes..

Making a low-Q Fat-bike is a little complicated -- which is why no one else does it -- there are alot of constraints to design around, when you are squeezing 3.8” tires into a frame with  a 73mm BB shell and nominal Q of 172mm.  We know it works great - goat has put nearly 14,000 k on his, exploring all over the world. But not all cranks/ gearing setups fit -- and that's what this article is about.

Turns out that there is a wider range of options than we had expected!  Almost any MTN cranks will fit -- We’ve tried SRAM, RaceFace, Shimano and Surly, and White Industries cranks; in fact, the only cranks we’ve found that don't work are Surly ‘Mr Whirly.’   Most of the cranks tested have been 25mm hollow spindle 2-piece cranks -- but older square taper cranks should work just fine (with the right length BB spindle). And most BB30 cranks should fit as long as you use the right BB (we have only tried the White Industries m30).

Chainline, it turns out is the real limiting factor -- because, chainline is pretty much the same thing as tire clearance. Which is where things start to get a little more complicated. Especially if you want to run (full) Fat tires. So let's start with tires.  The ScapeGoat is designed to fit 26x3.8” (4” nominal) tires on 80mm rims -- but it works equally well with 27.5(650b) Plus (3” nominal), 29+ (29x3.0”), and standard 29er wheels. And it even fits 26x4.8” (5” nominal) tires (on 80mm rims) though the clearances in the rear end are so tight, and the sweet spot (where the tire/chainstay clearance is best) so short, that we can't really recommend you do it (plenty of room for 5” tires upfront though). Thats alot of wheel sizes -- but the purposes of chainline/tire-clearance, there are only 2 groups. Full Fat (4”nominal), and Plus (3” nominal). For Plus, tires you need a CL of 54mm( or wider), and Fat, a CL of 58mm or wider   The take-away though, is that wider is better.

The ScapeGoat is 1x specific, but the 1x chainline ‘standard’ of 50mm is too narrow (it works with some Plus wheelsets, but is a little close for comfort)-- fortunately there are a couple ways to get the sort of chainlines that make the ScapeGoat happy.  The easiest is to use a single chainring in the OUTER position on a Tripple, or Double (2x10 style) crankset. Though the smallest chain ring that will fit on most of these cranks is 32t -- which depending on your riding style can be a little limiting. The more ‘modern’ way, which offers a ‘cleaner’ look and as small a chain ring as you might want, is to use a non-dished, or reverse-dished direct mount (DM) chainring.  RaceFace, Canondale, White Industries, Hope, etc; all make easily flip-able, dished DM chainrings (the chainring teeth are offset ~16 mm from the mounting point, and are designed to move the chain line IN toward the frame, but if the cog is reversed -- they give a nice wide chainline). SRAM is a little harder; SRAM-compatible DM-chainrings (such as those by WolfTooth) are available dished, but are less easily flipped (you need different (longer) mounting bolts with low-profile heads (disk rotor bolts work pretty well)) though we are working on flip-able sram-compatible chainrings to solve this problem.

Here is a little chart showing Q-factors and chain lines for some of the cranks we've tried.

With cranks and drive trains out of the way, it's time to talk about drive trains.  With Plus sized wheels, you can run whatever gearing you might want; fixedgear/SS all the way through 12speed. The Scapegoat is a 1x bike (no provision for front derailleurs or multiple chainrings) but you asked,  l checked, and you can run a Surly OD (offset double) with your Plus wheel/drivetrain of choice.

If you are going full Fat, your drivetrain options are more limited. The cleanest/easiest options are to go internally geared, or SS. With the Rohloff Speed Hub being the best internal gear hub choice, in terms of gear-range, durability, and chainline. For Single Speed we recommend SS specific short-cassette hubs (goat’s personal favorite is the Hope Trials/SS hub) so you can dial in the chainline.

It is possible to use derailleur/cassette gears but space is limited, and you have just enough room for 7 gears at 11speed spacing (or 6 a 9speed spacing, 5 at 8speed spacing) but since no one sells such a cassette *yet* (were working on it) you’ll have to check out goat’s forthcoming how-to and make your own -- he just put 1000+ miles on such a setup on the Baja Divide.

As always, direct any questions/confusions to [email protected].

Cliff-Notes

Use a single chainring in the outer position on a triple crankset, or a reversed dished DM chainring, to get the widest chain line possible (at least 54mm for Plus/ 58 for Fat)

Scapegoat builds can be divided into two categories, Plus, and Fat.

Plus builds can run whatever 1x drivetrain you want (1x9, 1x10,1x11, 1x12, internal, SS, etc)

Fat builds are limited to SS, or Internal gears (though it is possible to run a customized short cassette -- (how-to coming soon)

[crustbikes]

ScapeGoat build tips

~As always feel free to contact goat ([email protected]) with any ScapeGoat type questions; but here is an FAQ which might just tell you what  you need to know.

~ Our sizing charts are mislabeled (it would seem an easy thing to fix, but we’re busy bike traveling -- and think yall are smart enough to deal with it)

small on the charts should be Meidum, meidum on the charts should be Large, and large should be XL  

~ I (goat) am just under 6’ and ride a Large

~ With Plus sized tires (3” nominal) you can run whatever 1x drivetrain you want (use cranks with wide chainline(article coming soon)

~ With Fat tires (4” nominal) gearing options are more limited (article coming soon)

~ I recommend hydraulic disk brakes (and big rotors -- I run 203’s) with a banjo-bolt on the caliper for neater housing routing

~ if you prefer cable discs (I think bigger rotors are even more important) housing routing is a little unusual (for crank/tire clearance reasons) and the best/cleanest routing I’ve found uses a v-brake  noodle in an unorthodox manner

~ seat post size is 30.9 ( so get your dropper on), seat clamp ID is 34.9  

[crustbikes]

Any chance you'll be making any more large evasions any time soon? Or have any hiding in the closet?? The dreamer may fit the bill but planning some sandy dirtier routes for the summer. Thanks!

Hi Man. Sorry if this is a slow reply. I only just found this page on tumblr. More large Evasion will be in stock in about 2 and a half months. 

Thanks.

Matt.

[crustbikes]

on one pompino, customized with disc brake and belt drive, afline 8speed and the most ugly fork on the market ;)

[crustbikes]

Hanson Littles Evasion build is almost as stylish as he is on a BMX. 

#crustbikes #satanicrando #evasion

[crustbikes]

The Dreamer is the slender U.S made cousin of the Evasion. Both are designed for cruising on any road you might want to follow, but the Dreamer is a little more suited for day rides and fair weather touring. The tire clearances are a little tighter, the tubes are a little lighter, and there are one or two fewer braze-ons. The geometry has been tuned a little (just a tiny bit), with a hair longer top tubes, a shade steeper head tubes, and a scant bit more rake. And we used the most modern of axles, 12mm through-axle front and rear. Here is the stuff we can tell for now. Most of this is set in stone, but some of it (like braze-ons) could still change: The frame is a tig welded mix of True Temper and Columbus heat treated tubes, 8/5/8 double butted all around, oversize on the smaller frames, and double oversize for the larger frames. Seat and chainstays are S-bend. Cables will run in full housing under the top tube and on the bottom of the seat stays. There are two sets of hour-glass rack mounts on the seat stays, for a bag support or something like a Mark's Rack, but NO rack bosses to support a full size pannier rack. Fender mounting is fully supported. Bosses are provided for two water bottles in the main triangle, and a manything cage under the down tube. Rear dropouts are Paragon 12x142 through-axle. Bottom Bracket is 68mm threaded. The forks are unicrown with a 1-1/8” threadless steerer. Dropouts are Paragon 12x100 through-axle. There is a crown through-hole, mid-fork boss, and an hourglass boss near the fork dropouts. It uses disc-brakes. 650b x 2.25” tire with fenders should fit fine. Supplied with Paragon DT-Swiss threaded combo-head skewers.

Check the site for release party.

#crustbikes #crust bikes #satanicrando

[crustbikes]

Brandon brought one of the V2 Evasion frames from me a while back and I was lucky enough to not only meet, but also ride part of the Divide route with him. Meeting and riding with people who I have meet because of Crust is by far the best part of trying to run a bicycle company and to be honest it is my main motivation to keep pushing on. So thank you for the good times all.

A couple of the photos on here are from Tod Seelie. Check more of his stuff out you won't be disappointed.

#crust bikes #crustbikes #satanicrando #Bicycle touring #bikepacking #cargobike

[crustbikes]

New shirt done by RICH CALI. Get them while ya can.

#crust bikes #satanicrando #crustbikes #rich cali #wormfood

[crustbikes]

Goat sent me some pics of his Scapegoat builds last night and heres what he had to say. 

well heres some photos...

not so great having trouble with shitty cameras and tough light and all

have more but mostly close ups of clearances and such

proly try to get some others tomorrow...

whats cool though 29+ fits 4.8 ftis ( even in the rear) proly too tight to recomend, but def no problem up front

and l manages tgo get a modified 11 speed casette working with fat tires on there! (4.8) 1x 7 (11-42) ( used a10 speed deraliure and had to modify the shit out of it)

seems like most any cranks fit got a bunch of measurements

chain lines is harder, but not much -- unless you want a dingle ( like l do) then surly is the only option ( and they dont really fit very well -- for some reason thy need more spacers and are less symetrical) perhapse the od would work better

anty way enough waffeling on you wont read this any way

talk tomorrow​.

Goat.

Won’t read it!  It is true, I am pretty shit at email. So sorry if I have not replied to some of yours. 

Matt.

[crustbikes]

56cm (medium) Complete build $2200. 

Velocity wheels.

Jones bar.

Brooks BB7. 

Surly O.D cranks.

Thompson Stem.

Fat B nibble 650+ tires set up tubeless. 

Ready to travel, just add your preferred luggage set up.

Contact us at [email protected] for any more information.

#crust bikes #crustbikes #jonesbar #satanicrando #bikepacking