Defying Gender Norms at Paris Fashion Week 2023
Renowned fashion designers who defy societal norms of gender on the runway challenge traditional perceptions of gender. Their showcased pieces illustrate gender fluidity, pushing boundaries and redefining conventional notions of how clothing relates to gender identity. These illustrations were heavily seen during this year's Paris Fashion Week.
Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello for Saint Laurent.
Androgynonyous can be used to describe this show.
During the recent Paris Fashion Week, the designer, presented their latest collection, which showcases a unique direction: “to make no gender-based distinctions,” (Brewer, 2023). This collection effectively combines the iconic 1980s power suit and oversized blazers with a modern twist. A standout ensemble from the collection featured a sleek black suit with pronounced broad shoulders and tailored, slim trousers, accompanied by a sheer black cape. This reimagining of a timeless style presented a compelling new viewpoint. Ultimately, Saint Laurent achieved a fusion of feminine and masculine elements in their fashion, blurring traditional boundaries.
"'For our generation, everyone can wear a dress or jeans -- it's about expressing yourself,' says Florentin Glemarec, one half of the young design duo Egon Lab..." (Hirschmiller, 2023).
Creative Director Ludovic de Saint Sernin for Ann Demeulemeester.
This particular look for the designer's latest collection at PFW 2023, challenges multiple traditional fashion gender norms. The cropped jacket, embellished with fringe-like fur on the sleeves and along the jacket's opening, stands out as a statement piece that defies conventional expectations.
This dress challenges societal norms that dictate gender and clothing choices. There's often discomfort when someone who doesn't fit the typical female image chooses to wear a dress. Ludovic de Saint Sernin boldly defies these stereotypes and expectations by making the dress transparent, pushing boundaries further. This transparency adds a layer of vulnerability to the designer's captivating creations, offering an inclusive perspective that welcomes anyone to embrace wearing a dress.
Creative Directors Benjamin Huseby and Serhat Isik for GmbH.
In their latest showcase at PFW 2023, Huseby and Isik celebrated the rich heritage of South Asian and Arab cultures. He achieved this by incorporating the classic style of a kaftan. Huseby and Isik's selection of a light blue mini kaftan notably challenges conventional gender clothing norms. By blending a garment as traditional and timeless as the kaftan with contemporary and more progressive elements, Huseby and Isik take a bold step. Opting for a shorter, mini kaftan explicitly promotes gender fluidity. What's more, the deep V-cut neckline and the pairing of the kaftan with long white boots align perfectly with Huseby and Isik's signature boundary-breaking style.
Despite these elements often associated with "feminine" fashion, Huseby and Isik embrace and normalize this style for men, defying stereotypical gender clothing rules. Huseby and Isik elegantly create a unique blend of traditional and progressive elements.
Paris Fashion Week 2023 served as a platform where designers boldly challenged traditional gender norms, presenting collections that epitomized the fluidity of gender on the runway. Figures like Anthony Vaccarello for Saint Laurent, Ludovic de Saint Sernin representing Ann Demeulemeester, and the innovative duo Benjamin Huseby and Serhat Isik of GmbH showcased collections that seamlessly intertwined masculine and feminine elements. These displays of gender fluidity redefined the boundaries of clothing and identity. Whether it was Saint Laurent's fusion of masculine tailoring with feminine accents, Ludovic de Saint Sernin's transparent dress challenging gender stereotypes, or Huseby and Isik's modern interpretation of heritage garments, each designer's creations embodied a spectrum of gender expressions. This collective effort among visionary designers represents a significant step toward a more inclusive and diverse fashion landscape, celebrating fashion as a vehicle for personal expression beyond traditional gender constructs.
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References:
https://fashionista.com/2023/01/paris-fashion-week-mens-fall-2023-coed-genderless-collections
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serhat isik and benjamin huseby
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GmbH - Welt Am Draht - Trailer (dir. Matt Lambert) from Christopher Aoun on Vimeo.
GMBH
AUTUMN 2021
‘WELT AM DRAHT’
Creative Directors Benjamin A. Huseby & Serhat Isik
Director Matt Lambert
Director of Photography Christopher Aoun
Music LABOUR
LABOUR is Colin Hacklander & Farahnaz Hatam
Oud improvisation Khyam Allami
Jewellery Nhat-Vu Dang
Artistic Consultant Emman Debattista
Hair Mustafa Yanaz
Make up & Braiding Adiam Habtezion
Casting Affa Osman
Cast
Lucien Naim Adulzahab
Hossam Ibrahim
Isaiah Delgado
Mouhamed Ndaye
Islam Dulatov
Alec Gant
Production vers
Producer Jannis Birsner
Editor Judy Landkammer
Arial Photography Evolair
Drone Camera Operator Alexander Paul Probst
Drone Operator Jacob Blut
Drone Light Operator Clemens Wronski
1st AD Cosima Lohse
Gaffer Jens Thurmann
Electrician Samim Gardisi
Electrician Nay Aoun
Key Grip Roberto Irmisch
Grip Assistant Ron Lüscher
Focus Puller Marco Müller
Material Assistant Tony Pratsch
Make Up Assistant Lisa Lankes
Hair Assistant Adrian Xhaferi
DIT Frank Hellweg
Production Coordinator Monika Martinez
Production Assistant Anasol Michael
Backstage Photographer Thyago Sainte
Photography Assistant Filiz Serinyel
Graphic Designer Rupert Smyth
Titles Mathieu Bernardis
GmbH Studio
Eric Schieler, Francois Lebrun,
Mai Sakamoto, Louise Tunning, Frederik Britzlmaier, Thomas Evans.
Special thanks to:
Mumi Haiati
Robin Meason
Reference Studios
Ritual Projects
This project has been supported by:
Reference Festival
Berlin Senate, Department for Economics, Energy and Public Enterprises
Paris Fashion Week
ASICS
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Benjamin Huseby and Serhat Isik presented their SS20 collection for GmbH during Paris Fashion Week.
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Trussardi Fall 2022
Looks 1, 4, 5, 8
Looks 25, 28, 32, 35
I’ll admit: Trussardi wasn’t on my radar until this season. Newfound interest piqued only because of Serhat Isik and Benjamin Huseby’s appointment as creative directors of the Milanese heritage house. For Fall RTW, classic wardrobe staples are made subversive with the design duo’s touch—and it’s exceptionally done without losing the integrity of its origins.…
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