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cafezimmermann · 5 years

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Coco & Igor

Before leaving for Weisendorf, I picked up a few DVDs from the library, just in case I had some extra time on my hands to kill. That didn’t turn out to be, but I did manage to smuggle in Jan Kounen’s 2009 film Coco Chanel & Igor Stravinsky by watching it at fifteen-minute intervals during the week. Don’t run out to get it – not only is the second half of the movie terribly annoying, the mere idea of having an athletic, 6-foot tall Dane (Mads Mikkelsen) assume the role of the diminutive, 5’3”-tall Russian composer is utterly ridiculous. Then again, if Mads is interested in taking over the character roles of vertically challenged people, then he should give me a call. We can make a deal. The trailer:

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Indeed, his chiseled, frieze-like body dominates the film, as does the svelte figure of Coco Chanel, who played by the French actress Anna Mouglalis.

Throughout the movie, the two strike their poses against a series of drop-dead gorgeous Art Deco backdrops – Coco Chanel as a strong, modern, independent woman who is relentless at getting what she wants, and Igor Stravinsky as a brooding, tight-lipped enigma of a man who only seems to be interested in serving his music. It works at first; the tension that you feel between the two as they realize that they somehow “understand” each other on a deep level is tremendous. But when the two consummate their affair, the poses they assume quickly become wearisome. “Coco and Igor jump into bed, and it’s a bore,” was the headline of the Politico film review. The numerous scenes of their tandem nakedness only seemed to serve somebody’s voyeuristic desire of seeing what Mads Mikkelsen and Anna Mouglalis look like without clothes on.

Still, it was interesting to contemplate how the stay of the Stravinsky family at Chanel’s home in the Paris suburb of Garches in 1920 “might have played out.” The chance meeting of two great minds is always fascinating – particularly when they are able to look into each other’s soul but aren’t free to express their affection for each other openly. But since it’s a film, the barriers do fall. Meanwhile, Catherine Stravinsky, who suffers from tuberculosis and is often seen bedridden in the manor, slowly becomes aware that something is awry when she notes that Igor’s compositional style is suddenly different: “Your music has more passion,” she tells him. Sadly, the film doesn’t seem to be interested in delving further into how Stravinsky’s music might have displayed such passion, apart from a scene where Stravinsky can be seen playing his piano sonata (at least, I think that is what it is – can someone please help me here?) before Coco Chanel enters, the playing suddenly breaks off and there is more sex at the piano.

Afterward, Chanel leaves for Grasse to develop her signature perfume. The two are obviously smitten with each other, but Chanel is most likely already annoyed at the fact that Stravinsky won’t take the risk and run off with her. Things begin to fall apart – love turns to hate, the two women are filled with jealousy for each other, and Stravinsky’s furioso side of his personality takes hold of him as he pounds away at his piano in the back room of the manor. Madame Stravinsky leaves with the children, and… at this point, I turned off my laptop and went out to go for a walk. I didn’t care anymore about how the film ended.

Fortunately, the opening scene of the film, a reconstruction of the premiere of Le Sacre at the Théâtre des Champs Elysées in Paris in 1913, is definitely worth watching, even with Mads assuming the role of the great Igor. Back when I was at Oberlin, I was one of Tom Kelly’s “guinea pigs” for his book First Nights – Five Musical Premieres, which takes a closer look into the historical context and circumstances surrounding the first performances of, among other works, Stravinsky’s Sacre. Tom Kelly, with his gentle, upbeat North Carolina accent always had a natural talent for spinning a fine story during our lessons – as if you had William Styron in front of you. And you feel that in his book. It’s simply a good read, devoid of the dryness that makes most academic textbooks hard to digest.

I am wondering if Jan Kounen might have read Tom Kelly’s book when he was getting ready to film Coco Chanel & Igor Stravinsky because I was struck by how closely the opening scene follows what Kelly describes to his readers. In short, the film is “authentic,” not only in terms of the costumes and the choreography of Le Sacre itself but in the details as to just how violently the public reacted to the performance, so much so that the gendarmes had to be called in. There are numerous accounts of the evening – Stravinsky himself described it in 1962:

“Mild protests against the music could be heard from the very beginning of the performance. Then, when the curtain opened on the group of knock-kneed and long-braided Lolitas jumping up and down (Danse des adolescents), the storm broke. Cries of “Ta gueule” came from behind me. I heard Florent Schmitt shout “Taisez-vous garces du seizième”; the “garces” of the sixteenth arrondissement were, of course, the most elegant ladies in Paris. The uproar continued, however, and a few minutes later I left the hall in a rage; I was sitting on the right near the orchestra, and I remember slamming the door. I have never again been that angry. The music was so familiar to me; I loved it, and I could not understand why people who had not yet heard it wanted to protest in advance. I arrived in a fury backstage, where I saw Diaghilev flicking the house lights in a last effort to quiet the hall. For the rest of the performance, I stood in the wings behind Nijinsky holding the tails of his frac, while he stood on a chair shouting numbers to the dancers, like a coxswain.”

Kounen portrays this brilliantly in his film, succeeding to bring to life something that my mind’s eye has tried to imagine whenever I have stood on the stage of the Théâtre des Champs Elysées and looked out into the parquet of the auditorium. And yet, he also seemed unable to answer one key question that has always bothered me: How did they manage to get in so many musicians into orchestra pit? For, according to Kelly: “Stravinsky’s orchestra ended up being very large. He had originally intended it to be smaller, but encouraged by Diaghilev (who was no doubt feeling expansive because of the enormous sum Astrc was paying for the 1913 season), he increased its size.”

Kelly then tallies the number of musicians needed for Le Sacre, arriving at a total of ninety-nine players. “This may well be an enormous orchestra, but in a sense it is also chamber music, in that practically each player, even in the strings, has a unique part.” In terms of strings, this translates to “eight desks of first violins (all eight desks are needed on p. 20 of the score); seven desks of second violins (all needed on p.77); six desks of violas (all needed on p. 84); at least seven cellos (five soloists plus “the others” on p. 75); and a famous passage that calls for six solo double basses (p. 7).” There were “quintuple winds – that is, five of each wind instrument, though the five musicians were often required to double by switching from one instrument to the another.”

In the film (I stopped it and counted) it seems that 60 musicians involved, without the conductor – in other words, 39 less than what would have been needed to perform Le Sacre “properly”:

And again, from first-hand experience, I know that the theater pit is not big. Back in 2012, Akamus played a production of Pascal Dusapin’s Medea. We had 22 musicians, six solo singers, and the conductor in the pit, and even then the living quarters were quite cramped! Therefore, I suspect that something “had to give” for the premiere of Le Sacre. But what? Kelly even goes so far as to mention the problem in his book: “The orchestra pit, though ample, was small for the enormous orchestra of Le Sacre. Stravinsky wanted to expand the seating area by changing the layout of the theater. To remove the front seats in the auditorium, however, would have required taking welding torches to the brand-new theater, in addition to resulting in a loss of revenue. Ultimately, the orchestra succeeded in fitting into the pit, although the seating was not ideal.”

“Not ideal” is putting it mildly. Men the size of Mads Mikkelsen, impersonating Stravinsky, must have found it terribly frustrating. But then again, Mads was probably only waiting for the second half of the movie to get underway.

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wholockedcumberwumber · 5 years

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FANDOM POST: MAD FOR MADS - MOVIES WITH MADS MIKKELSEN IN THEM (UPDATED 11/21/2018 @ 5:25PM CENTRAL TIME)

1. Jagten (The Hunt) 2. Adam’s Apples [Three Times]

3. Tie Dur (The Door)

4. En Kort En Lang (Shake it All About) [I WATCHED THIS FOR THE SECOND TIME ON 4/29/15. I JUST NOTICED THE PICTURES IN THE ENDING CREDITS WHERE THEY SHOW JACOB AND BJORN HOLDING THE BABY AND THEN THE SHOW THE MOTHER WITH HER HUSBAND HOLDING THE BABY]

5. The Necessary Death of Charlie Countryman

6. Nu (now)

7. Torremolinos 73

8. Bleeder

9. Flame and Citron

10. Move On

11. Green Butchers (Gronne Slagtere)

12. After The Wedding

13. I Am Dina

14. The Royal Affair

15. OPEN HEARTS [started 12/3 @ about seven pm central time. completed @ 6:15 am central time on the 12/4)

16. KING ARTHUR (STARTED 12/20 @ ROUGHLY 3:30PM CENTRAL TIME, STILL HAVE ABOUT 40 MINUTES OF THE MOVIE LEFT TO WATCH FINISHED ON THE 23RD OR 24TH OF DECEMBER.) [IT WAS SENT FROM CALIFORNIA, I THINK AND TOOK LONGER TO GET HERE]

17. AGE OF UPRISING: THE LEGEND OF MICHAEL KOHLHAAS (STARTED 12/30/2014 @ ROUGHLY 3PM CENTRAL TIME, BEFORE I WENT TO WORK. OTHER HALF OF THE MOVIE I WATCHED @ 3PM CENTRAL TIME ½/2015) [YET ANOTHER MOVIE WHERE HIS CHARACTER DIES]

18. VALHALLA RISING (STARTED DECEMBER 20TH BECAUSE I FORGOT WHERE ON MY STREAMING LIST AGE OF UPRISING WAS)

19. COCO CHANEL AND IGOR STRAVINSKY (I JUST WATCHED THIS TODAY AND I THOUGHT IT WAS A GREAT MOVIE. AND I ENJOYED THE FEATURETTE)

20. WILBUR WANTS TO KILL HIMSELF (I ADMIT I LIKE MADS WHEN HE PLAYS SOMEONE A CHARACTERS GOES TO FOR ADVISE. HIS CHARACTER IS A SIDE CHARACTER IN THE MOVIE ONLY SHOWN IN SCENES IN THE HOSPITAL.)

21. CASINO ROYALE [JUST WATCHED 7/5/2015]

22. THE SALVATION [VIEWED 9/3/15]

23. FLICKERING LIGHTS [VIEWED ON 11/3/16]

24. DOCTOR STRANGE [WATCHED 11/21/18]

WHEN I WENT THROUGH MY ARCHIVE TO UPDATE THIS I DID NOT REALIZE IT HAD BEEN TWO YEARS SINCE I WATCHED ANYTHING WITH MADS MIKKELSEN IN IT.

HE'S REALLY GOOD AT PLAYING VILLAINS HE'S THE BEST PART OF CASINO ROYALE IN MY OPINION

#fave actors #mad for mads #mads mikkelsen #11/21/18 #i like lists #movies and tv #updated

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colasins · 4 years

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1.Masculinity, masquerade and display: Some thoughts on Rick Owens’s Sphinx collection and men in fashionA Bancroft - Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty, 2016

This is a must-read for anyone who has ever doubted that fashion is more than just a visual pleasure." Before I opened the book, I was most impressed by this recommendation from Nilgin Yusuf, creative director of the school of media and communication at the London institute of fashion. After reading the book, I agree with this sentence even more. Fashion, as the most preamble of popular culture, not only pursues fashion and style, but also expresses designers' opinions on the world, which is related to the whole social and cultural environment, and actively absorbs philosophical aesthetics and other viewpoints. By understanding the cultural code behind fashion and putting down your books, you may gain a new understanding of the creative behavior of famous designers and the subversive avant-garde works of art. Clothing design is very personal style, but also let a lot of people confused and misunderstood. From the perspective of fashion criticism, this book summarizes the work of a fashion design master with a key word, and then interprets this professional vocabulary from various cultural perspectives, so that it and the designer and his works it summarizes can be understood by the general reader. For example, "deconstruction". Starting from derrida's theory of deconstruction, the author elaborates on the connection and difference between deconstruction in architecture and that in fashion design.

2.Joseph Beuys: Pioneer of a radical ecologyD Adams - Art Journal, 1992 - caa

Shaman and mysticism really have no love, but they always get a lot of intellectuals. The early boyce works are full of vitality, with only admiration for the oil chairs and mummies. I don't know whether it is the translation or the author's unwillingness to explain clearly. Social sculpture says a lot, but feels little. However, social revolution as an artwork and revolutionary organism as an artwork are still valuable legacies. Allan Antliff's introduction is a bit shallow and fan-friendly, but does touch on the criticism of Beuys's work. I think Beuys is so controversial, it would be totally abnormal not to raise any objection at all. Nor, of course, was there a proper rebuttal or response to Benjamin Bloch's criticism, which was simply labelled "slander" and "biased attack". In addition, when describing the irony of aboriginal artist James Luna's visit to Beuys' "I like America and America likes me" -- Hong Kong, I think Luna's performance of "Petroglyphs in Motion" criticizing Beuys was better than Beuys' performance criticizing Duchamp -- he was also quick to exonerate Beuys。

3.New York! Banks is coming! Banksy Does New York (2014) director: Chris Moukarbel type: documentaryRelease date: October 11, 2014 running time: 75 mins

Banksy was fine, but like all artists, once it became a subject of capital, everything went sour. Throughout the film, people "protect" a wall on the basis of "do you know how much this is worth?" while Banksy's autographed paintings sold for 60 yuan were not sought after. The whole thing is a bureau, with the streets as a stage for people to perform. And the pictures on the wall, like the plays on the stage, are ephemeral. As for the origin of the name banksy, some say it was the painter's surname, while others say it was just his alias. But banksy's low profile does not hide his boldness. Banksy is known for his art pranks. He often swaps world famous works for his own modified imitations in art galleries around the UK, causing a media sensation from time to time. He has scrawled graffiti all over Britain's streets and Bridges. In London's Trafalgar Square he has written bold slogans such as "designated riot zones" and "beware of litter" on the steps outside the Tate Gallery. For more than a decade, banksy has produced a large number of works with real life and anti-war content as the subject matter, the style is famous for black humor. ", he created a different art in this era, can be remembered enough, will disappear in the long river of history, really so important?

4. Westwood R, Jesse; C, Ronald; Book on Demand Ltd.pages:134

Lost legends and living legends, self-destructive genius and reconciliation genius. In particular, the way to avoid a biographical account of her life is to capture the character's sense of rebellion, identity and independence, and how she used her influence to get involved in the environmental movement. After watching it, I still don't understand fashion, but I am closer to this person, although I can neither reveal the inner world of the character nor tell the true legend of her life. But it also offers a glimmer of an independent soul that moves with sex, free of men, circles and politics. But just as she said, behind the logic of seemingly rebelling against the mainstream value, there is nothing more than more mainstream commercial marketing. It is a ridiculous thing that punk woman finally becomes a refined woman. Whether she is on the cutting edge of fashion, or whether capital has kept the so-called "independent" queen under her wing, is another question.

5. Chanel’s Secret Love History Coco Chanel & Igor Stravinsky (2009) Director: Jan Gaoneng Screenwriter: Chris Greenhalgh / Carlo De Boutiny / Jan High Energy Starring: Anna Muglalis / Max Micholson / Jelena Morozova / Natasha Landinger Genre: Drama / Love Production Country / Region: French Language: English / French / Russian Release Date: 2009-12-30 Runtime: 118 minutes

At the beginning of the 20th century, it took more than ordinary courage to ignore the pressures of public opinion and moral constraints. Even now, when a hundred flowers bloom, my view of life that does not conform to the mainstream often wavered like a pendulum, and at that time, she was already beautiful, independent and strong, focus on design, the pursuit of love, without any hesitation. I want to travel through time to talk to her. What is morality? If you knew what an irreplaceable passion is, you wouldn't be using the bottom line to measure infidelity. So, to his wife's question, "don't you feel ashamed?" There was a twinkle in her eye, but she soon regained her usual confidence. She knew exactly what she was doing. She always knew what she wanted. Why should such people feel guilty? Guilt for two of a kind is cruel. But as a result, some people are bound to become more and more like sleepy beasts. After all, the desire to be recognized is an unspeakable thirst in everyone's blood. So there will be stubborn. Dispute. In the dead of night, the temptation to tangle with each other. The weak always give in first. He didn't know the result, and he couldn't find the exit. She was awake, awake, awake. Invite the theater owner to dinner, sponsor the show, and do everything for him. Silence unconditionally. No one knows. Too sober person can be particularly lonely, but this loneliness also shaped chanel as always independent.

6. The Love of Van Gogh Starry Night Mystery Loving Vincent (2017) Director: Dolota Kobela / Hugh Welshman Screenplay: Dolota Kobela / Hugh Welshman / Giaco Dan Nal Genre: Drama / Animation / BiographyOfficial Website: www.lovingvincent.com Country / Region: UK / Polish Language: English ) Duration: 95 minutes

The film USES an undeliverable letter to connect the secrets of van gogh's last six weeks with three of the most important people in his life, taking the viewer back to Europe at the end of the 19th century and accompanying van gogh through his final days. The film USES the characters in van gogh's original paintings to restore van gogh's artistic life, allowing the audience to enjoy the breathtaking visual feast, to discover the secret hidden for a century and a half. Fanatical love van gogh's brushwork, and all lived together, that feeling is so wonderful, like entering a parallel world, and van gogh's dialogue across time and space, when he turned to leave in a special way, I already was in tears, in the darkness that brief encounter, to say goodbye, the tragedy of his life, he's famous legend. It's amazing to see the painter's strokes flowing through the frames, and maybe a little distracted. The story itself is a detective story. If you want a more detailed description of van gogh himself, both pialla and altmann are better; But of course the animation has its own beauty, and it's amazing to find those familiar characters in every scene.

7. Analyze the creative concept of artistic works with Hegel’s “Aesthetics” perspective-Taking Alexander McQueen’s costume works as an example L Yang -Light Textile Industry and Technology, 2012

Darkness, skulls, romance and imagination are the words that spring to mind when you think of the famous British fashion designer Alexander McQueen. The world's most famous and controversial fashion baddie, who hanged himself in 2010 on the eve of his mother's funeral at the age of 40, has left a world of speculation and speculation. From ordinary working families in the east end of London to the top runways of Paris and London, rebel's stunning talent has made him the star of an era reinventing popular culture. Under the aura and fame, the long oppression of depression and the death of relatives, also let him in the world's most crowded center, enjoy the roller coaster dive like a high-speed fall of loneliness. Genius doesn't have to be discovered, because it's already there. Legend can't last, because legend is always one in a million. Skulls and butterflies are about death and dreams. Flowers and birds, let color and emotion overlap. Before you, all the designers will be pale, compared to you, the whole fashion industry looks ordinary. You can feel life in death and find beauty in ugliness. Like you: Alexander McQueen.

8. Globalization: Incorporating the museum MW Rectanus - A companion to museum studies, 2006 - Wiley Online Library

If you want to design a product, you have to figure out how to make it."-- terence conran, founder of the design museum in LondonWe may ask ourselves: what is important about design? Why should I care about design? The answer is simple: because we live in a world of design, we live in a world of design. Just as we try to understand nature, we need to understand the world that man has shaped for himself. The concept of design goes back to the industrial revolution. At that time, factories introduced machines that could produce large quantities of identical products in a short time. For thousands of years the direct link between the craftsman, the customer, the producer and the user was suddenly broken down. When the workshop was replaced by the factory, "designer" came into being. They act as a bridge between producers and users, taking into account both the needs of millions of users and what products are more likely to be sold. Beginners who are interested in design can use this book as an introduction.

9. Dior by Dior C Dior - 2007 - Victoria & Albert Museum

It is the reflection and record of Mr. Dior's life on fashion, as well as the summary of his own fashion views. He elaborated his views on fashion with simple and interesting short essays. For example, his ideas and Suggestions on dress, lipstick, earrings, lace, embroidery and other fashion items or elements. This book is a must-read classic on fashion culture, as well as dior's fashion point of view. 1. Age -- there are only two ages in fashion -- girlhood and womanhood. Dress for your age. 2. Luxury -- the opposite of elegance. Elegance can be bold, but can never be extravagant. Better to err in simplicity than to be extravagant in dress. Elegance must be the right combination of individuality, naturalness, carefulness, and simplicity.

10. Picassos äventyr (1978) Director: Taj Danielson Screenwriter: Hans Elferson / Taiji Danielson Starring: Josta Eckerman / Hans Elferson / Margarita Crocker / Lena Olin / Bernard Kribins

It is said that girls are willing to find a partner who is similar to their father. What happens if a girl comments on their father like this? "If my husband treated me the way my father treated my mother, I would kill him." This is what Picasso's daughter said in the documentary. After watching the documentary, I really want to say that Picasso is really the father of cheating and playing with women's feelings, how can there be such a big man "charm"? Into the 50s and 60s can also hook up with teenage girls in their teens and 20s, simply cattle. He grew up among women, whom he loved and hated. To be precise, it was partly women who made him what he was, and it was relationships that made great painters. Every big change in his painting style is due to a certain woman, blue stage, pink stage, cubism, surrealism and so on. He was a man of great conceit; he despised the weaker, and hated the stronger.

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shadyluminaryinfluencer · 7 years

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Hello Fashionista’s,

The next must have item in our capsule closet has to be the little black dress also known as L.B.D. In fact I would go so far as categorically stating that no modern women’s wardrobe can be considered complete if it does not have one of them. The popularity of this must have item has by Fashion Historians been ascribed to the 1920’s designs of Coco Chanel.

Double layered shirred bodycon dress

Lets pay homage to this incredible women by finding out a little bit more about them. Gabrielle Bonheur “Coco” Chanel was born on the 19th August 1883 in Saumur, Maine-et-Loire, France to Eugenie Jeanne Devolle (who went by the name of Jeanne) her Mother who was unmarried and her father, Albert Chanel. Her mother was a laundrywoman who spent her days working at a charity hospital which was run by the Sisters of Providence. This was a government run facility which took care of and gave support to the very needy in society. Coco had an older sister called Julia who was born less than a year earlier.

Her father made a living peddling work clothes and undergarments traveling to and from market towns to do so. After being persuaded to marry her by her family the couple wed in 1884. When she was born, Coco’s name was entered into the official registry as “Chasnel”,her mother Jeanne was to unwell to attend the registration. With both parents absent, the infants’s name was misspelled – suspicion being that it was a clerical mistake. The couple had three other children, another girl and two boys. Growing up was extremely cramped as they resided in a one-room lodging in the town of Brive-la-Gallarde, France.

Tragically her mother died of Tuberculosis when she was 12, her mother perishing at the young age of 32. Her brothers were sent to work as farm labourers and her father sent his three daughters to a convent called Aubazine in Correze which is about 10 km’s away from Brive-la-Gallarde. The orphanage , was “founded to care for the poor and rejected, including running homes for abandoned and orphaned girls”. Life in the orphanage was stark, sparse and the nuns demanded strict discipline. Historians agree that despite the tragic circumstances which landed her in the orphanage, it was here where she learned to sew. When she turned eighteen, she went to live in a boarding house for Catholic girls in the town of Moulins. Interestingly it is widely reported that Chanel would tell a somewhat different version of her own childhood when she was older often telling people that after her mother died, her father sailed to America to persue his fortune. Or that she was sent to live with her Aunts. It seems she regailed a far more glamorous childhood than the tragic one afforded to her which saw her loose her mother at such a young age and her being sent to grow up in an institution.

Her name Coco arose from a somewhat different earlier career she enjoyed as a singer – albeit a brief one. She would sing at various clubs in Vichy and Moulins in France. Chanel herself is quoted as saying the name is a “shortened version of cocotte, the French word for ‘kept woman’”. It soon became apparent that a stage career was not for her.

A young Gabrielle Chanel

Coco Chanel and her Aunt, Adrienne outside her first store in Deauville

Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel in her youth

The young Coco Chanel

An association with Etienne Balson when she was twenty years old prompted her early foray into fashion when he assisted her in starting a millinery business in Paris. When she met Arthur “Boy” Capel – an even wealthier associate of Etienne’s she promptly dumped him. The stylish Arthur was an impeccably dressed man and his influence is widely associated with Chanel’s concept look. Her first boutique was opened in 1913 in Deauville with Arthur’s financial assistance. The store introduced the world to her range of casual and sportswear. It marked the start of future success. By 1915 a second boutique opened its doors in Biarritz. The establishment of her Maison de couture at 31 rue Cambon took place in 1919.

Coco Chanel introduced the world to the Little Black Dress in the 1920’s. Her intention being that the dress be affordable and easy-to-wear this being in stark contrast to the restrictive fashion of the time which included constrictive corsets which were used an essential piece of underwear forcing a women’s waist thinner. She will remain forever enshrined in the fashion worlds hall of fame for freeing women of corsets, daring them to wear short skirts – short enough for their ankles to be shown in public. It is for this and her elegant, comfortable and practical approach to women’s fashion that revolutionized the world of women’s fashion forever.

In 1921 Coco introduced the world to her first fragrance – named after her as – Chanel No. Five. The Number Five was included as Chanel had been told it was her lucky number by a fortune teller. This floral scent was created by Ernest Beaux and he was briefed by Chanel to create a perfume that ‘smelled like a women”. She did not want it to smell like a rose or lily of valley but rather as a floral composition. The original scent has been adapted since then by Henri Robert and Jacques Polge

‘I am told that when Mlle Chanel met Ernest Beaux she asked him to create ‘a perfume that will make even the perfumers jealous’. She said he could use the richest products available, and so he used the best he had – jasmine from Grasse, May rose, a special quality of ylang-ylang – and, at the end, he added some aldehydes to let all that richness fly a little,’ Polge said.

Chanel No. 5 was adored by Marilyn Monroe who family said she wears Chanel No. 5 and nothing else to bed. The perfume remains on the best selling perfumes in the world – adored by celebrities and man across the world.

During the World War II, she was accused of being a Nazi spy. At the end of the war in 1945 Chanel moved to Switzerland. She remained there for nine years eventually returning to Paris in 1954, this marked the re-opening of her couture houses. Chanel, aged 71 is reportedly to have told the famous actress Marlene Dietrich that it was because she was “dying of boredom”. Her new collection wasn’t well received by Parisians as the taint of being a Nazi spy continued to haunt her. However, her designs were well regarded and endorsed by the British and the Americans.

Another iconic Chanel piece is undoubtedly the Chanel Handbag which was created in 1955. Owning one of these incredible handbags is akin to being accepted into an exclusive sorority. For decades the classic flap has been incredibly sought after. The 2.55 Reissued helped revive the style of this icon in the mid 2000’s. The redesign appealed to a modern looking new generation of customers who didn’t want to be seen wearing their mothers handbags.

Many other designers and retailers from Urban Outfitters to Marc Jacobs has been accused of stealing from Chanel’s signature bag, and there’s a good reason for that – it’s timeless, iconic and still as relevant to luxury customers today as it was back in the 1950s. Chain straps and quilted leather have become nearly synonymous with the idea of the designer handbag, and the Chanel flap may even be more well-known across the world than the illustrious handbag holy grail, the Hermes Birkin. Its pricey at about $ 3,000 but then again you would be buying one of the most sought after handbags in the world and you would own a legend.

On 10 January 1971 Chanel died at the hotel Ritz in Paris at the age of 87. It is widely reported that she uttered her last words to her maid Celine were, “You see, this is how you die.” A recent biography written by Lisa Chaney called “Coco Chanel: An Intimate Life” lays claim that she frequently used opiates and considered the use of morphine as a simple sedative. All of which surfaced with discovered love letters and other archives which go on to claim her bisexuality. Chanel’s funeral was organized at eglise de Madeleine. She rests in peace in the Bois-de-Vaux Cemetery, Lausanne, Switzerland.

Her life has been captured on two films both released in 2009: Coco Chanel and Igor Stravinsky starring Anna Mouglalis and based on a novel of the same name, and Coco before Chanel starring Audrey Tautou.

No matter what is portrayed of her posthumously, her influence on the fashion world is unmistakable and her legacy will remain forever. When a women today puts on a pair of trouser she can credit Chanel that she no longer needs to be squeezed into a corset. Jackie Kennedy was wearing one of her pink suits on the day JFK was assassinated in Dallas in 1963. In the 1980’s Karl Lagerfield took over as head of design and he is much credited with appealing to a younger more modern women. The company owns 100 boutiques around the world and is still one of the most recognized names in fashion and perfume.

In his book, Chanel: A Woman of Her Own, Axel Madsen says, “Coco was the Pied Piper who led women away from complicated, uncomfortable clothes to a simple, uncluttered, and casual look that is still synonymous with her name. It conveys prestige, quality, taste, and unmistakable style.”

Today her namesake company continues to thrive. Although it is privately held, it is believed to generate hundreds of millions in sales each year.

When I think of a black dress I fondly remember my first trip to the far east in 2007. A shopping trip to the famous Xiushui Street in Beijing. The Market is in the extension line of Chang’an Street, near to International CBD Commercial Area, so it enjoys convenient location and transport.

Among the extensive variety of goods on offer ranging from branded clothes, shoes, bags, leather goods, sportswear, handicrafts, jewelry, antiques, calligraphy, clocks, watches and glasses to name a few I came across a black dress which caught my eye. We were a bit weary after making our way through the maze of people selling their goods. The reason for our weariness stemming from the sellers clutching on to you and whinging that you must by their goods and having to be quite abrupt and stern with them to get rid of them. It quickly dawned on me to avoid making an eye contact with any sellers as this was an invitation for a sale…I can distinctly remember the sound of “best price” and “only so many $’s” as clear as if it were yesterday.

The black dress was an exquisite Chloe black dress – complete with a mandarin collar and ruffled detail on the bodice. The pleated skirt was pure perfection with a ribbon belt which perfectly accentuated the waist. IT WAS PERFECT and then I tried it on…EVEN MORE PERFECT that it was hanging up in all its splendid glory. Then I heard the price which was a little more than I was budgeting on spending but I thought surely I can haggle down the price. So I began in earnest with a price which was immediately cut down – No the price remained. According to my colleague Amanda who was on hand to assist with the translation who also attempted (in Mandarin I might add) to negotiate better terms – the dress was the actual one the real deal and not a knock off. Hence the price was justified and not negotiable. With a heavy heart I exercised restraint and walked away. Everything else in the market after seeing that glorious dress was boring, plain and to me at least uninteresting. As our visit to the market was drawing to its inevitable conclusion my head filled with horror that I might never get a chance to wear that dress. I simply could not leave without that dress – it was haunting me. No matter which way we tried the seller was not budging – not even an inch – not even when we argued that if she was a licensed agent she would have to give me a warranty something she was unwilling to do. So I handed over the cash and the dress looked similar to this one:

I am pleased to report that the dress still hangs in my closet (although I fear it might not fit at the moment as I am carrying some Winter weight which I need to shed). Equally pleased to report that the dress has attended important events, weddings and sadly a few funerals. It has been there for girlfriends who have equally needed a Little Black Dress for an occasion – in fact it forms part of a travelling wardrobe between the girlfriends.

It must be said that the dress – with its classic feminine style – has been worth every cent. The dress wears beautifully, launders well and remains in perfect shape. Whilst I may not have acquired it from a licensed Chloe Store or Agent it’s longevity has been curious to me as to its true origins.

Or perhaps it is simply the nostalgia of remembering those items you buy when you are visiting foreign lands. They unlock memories, smells, sights and sounds with them of that trip. We have a standing joke at home that my husband only shops when he is abroad – cause oh boy can he shop! It is like the minute he gets to a foreign land he becomes a true shopper. I will never forget the look of sheer delight and enjoyment when we entered an Abercrombie and Finch store in Singapore. Oh and they smell great – whatever they use to scent their stores with.

Regrettably for us mere mortals, travels to foreign lands to acquire your full wardrobe is not quite realistic at this stage. However, with the incredible technology at our fingertips today we can order anything, from anywhere, pay for it and have it delivered. It is truly amazing and astounding.

So no matter what the event is you going to be it a funeral, dinner, dance or even a wedding a little black dress will work. It remains chic, modern and relevant even after all these years. One of the most iconic and stylish women of our times, Diana was often seen wearing a stylish Little Black Dress. I have recently listened to the Audiobook “Diana: In her own Words” by Andrew Morton which is a series of the Icon’s own insights recorded during “Morton tapes,” of secret interviews recorded by the princess and sent to the journalist. The one story which I recall is during the early years, Charles admonished Diana for wearing black to an event and she simply ignored his “oh no wearing black is for a funeral comment” and wore that Little Black Dress. By the way if you are a massive fan of her then you simply have to listen to the audio book which strikes a deep chord as it is her voice, her thoughts, her fears, her delights and her love of the boys which is so unscripted and real. Well worth a listen. You will really admire those royal heirs even more…

So as is immortalized in Coco Chanel and Diana to name a few the Little Black Dress is really worthy of its status as a staple piece and building block of any women’s wardrobe.

So here are some of my investment Little Black Dresses that I would recommend:

I hope you have enjoyed this as much as I have putting together its roots and giving the Little Black Dress an insight into its illustrious history which is continuing to evolve among each and everyone of us.

xxx

Hello Fashionista’s, The next must have item in our capsule closet has to be the little black dress also known as L.B.D.

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