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sian4chatsworth · 8 months

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Gender

The spring/summer 2018 menswear shows are a prime example of the fashion industry shifting towards a gender-fluid space where skirts are not female wardrobe staples, but a garment to be worn-and enjoyed-by all. In Paris, Thom Browne sent an army of models down the runway in grey pleated skirts that aptly chimed with the newly adopted uniform of the boys in Exeter. At London Collections:Men the skirt offering expanded into highly elaborate dresses at Vivienne Westwood, Charles Jeffrey Loverboy and Edward Crutchley.

Spring 2016 saw Zara launch a 16-piece collection of unisex items, titled “Ungendered”, with males and females modelling all pieces in the campaign images. Selfridges’ concept space “Agender” - a “unique genderless shopping experience across fashion, accessories and beauty” - moves away from a separate “his” and “hers” experience across all brand levels. And ASOS is currently working towards a genderless style offering following the success of ASOS influencers wearing items purchased from both menswear and womenswear lines.

Theodora “Teddy” Quinlivan

Teddy Quinlivan was discovered by Louis Vuitton’s creative director Nicolas Ghesquière in 2015, and came out as transgender two years later. She has since taken the modelling world by storm, with a résumé that includes Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton, Dior, Moschino, Haider Ackermann, Paco Rabanne, and Jeremy Scott.

Nathan Westling

Nathan has previously starred in many major campaigns for designer brands including Dior and Louis Vuitton. In March (two months into his transition), he opened up about the process to CNN Style. When asked about how he saw the future of his career expanding, Nathan told the outlet, “We’ll have to see how this story takes to fashion and how everything takes. I’m not worried about it. I think it’s going to be a good change and I’m excited for it. I’m really, really excited.”

He added, “It’s been an incredible journey, it’s been an incredible process and I’m just really happy to be on this path, and at such a young age, too. That’s such a blessing.”

Vogue reports that Nathan will walk in a handle of more runway shows throughout the month of June as men’s fashion weeks continue internationally.

Noah Carlos

Noah Carlos identifies as a gender non-binary model. Carlos was offered a modelling contract with IMG. Carlos has strutted across quite a few fall catwalks, including Coach, Rick Owens and Self Portrait, and is continually advocating for more non-binary casting on the runways.

Zaïr Cheseaux

The 22-year-old Swiss-Congolese model, who recently transitioned to male, was brought up outside the medieval town of Sion in Switzerland and made his first appearance for KNWLS in 2019. He has since made waves for Richard Quinn. His career highlight was AW22, when he walked for brands such as Hermès, Balmain, Loewe, Stella McCartney, Vetements and Acne Studios. “There’s something unique about Zaïr,” says Ben Grimes. “And it’s not about beauty or proportion, it’s about presence. He’s unabashedly himself.”

Harvard Referencing:

Fig 1. GROSESCU ALBERTO MIHAI/SHUTTERSTOCK. (2019) Teddy Quinlivan during Paris Fashion Week in February 2019. [Photograph] Available from: https://wwd.com/feature/chanel-hires-first-transgender-model-teddy-quinlivan-beauty-campaign-1203245652/ [Accessed: 24th September 2023]

Fig 2. ETHRIDGE,R. (2019) Nathan Westling - winter 2019. [Photograph] Available from: https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/gallery/28187/1/nathan-westling-winter-2019 [Accessed: 24th September 2023]

Fig 3. GHERTNER, Z. (2020) Noah Carlos By Zoe Ghertner For Zara Accessories Fall-Winter 2020 Ad Campaign. [Photograph] Available from: https://fashionfav.com/fashion/zara-accessories-fall-winter-2020-ad-campaign/ [Accessed: 25th September 2023]

Fig 4. MONTAG, I/GORUNWAY.COM. (2022) Model: Zair Cheseaux. [Photograph] Available from: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear-/hugo-boss/slideshow/collection [Accessed: 27th September 2023]

NEWBOLD, A. (2017) In The Thick Of It: Exploring Cultural Shift Towards Gender Fluidity. [Online] Available from: https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/gender-fluid-fashion [Accessed: 10th September 2023]

REDAÇÃO. (2020) 9 Transgender Models Who Are Changing The Face Of Fashion. [Online] Available from: https://www.lofficielsingapore.com/fashion/9-transgender-models-who-are-changing-the-face-of-fashion [Accessed: 22nd September 2023]

RUSSO, G. (2019) Model Nathan Westling Makes Menswear Debut. [Online] Available from: https://www.teenvogue.com/story/model-nathan-westling-makes-menswear-debut-after-transitioning [Accessed: 24th September 2023]

HOLZMAN,S. (2020) The Generation of Models to Watch Right Now. [Online] Available from: https://www.marieclaire.com/fashion/g32801166/top-models-2020/ [Accessed: 25th September 2023]

FINANCIAL TIMES. (2023) The new supers:14 models changing the face of fashion. [Online] Available from: https://www.ft.com/content/6988184e-36df-42b0-ad43-0af66368f15e [Accessed: 25th September 2023]

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bestmodelsource · 3 years

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Josephine Skriver for Balmain Ready To Wear Fall 2016

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hckat · 4 years

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Balmain, Fall 2016

#balmain #balmain fall 2016 #ready to wear #fashion #vogue #runway #details #fashion photography #fashion details

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vamillion · 6 years

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Balmain

Fall 2016

Ready-to-wear

Source: https://www.pinterest.com/voguemagazine/

#fashion #Fashion Blog #fashion show #haute couture #Couture Details #couture #runway #runway model #balmain #Fall Collection #ready to wear #fall fashion #fall 2016 #Luxurious #luxury #skirt #pastel

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hautecouturedresses · 2 years

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Balmain Fall 2016 Ready-To-Wear

#balmain #fashionedit #fashion #haute couture #couture #fashion edit

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glamrockandlove · 3 years

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Balmain Fall 2016 Ready-to-Wear

#Balmain #FW16 #runway #details

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thedeathly · 7 years

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Sophie Turner wearing Balmain Fall 2016 Ready-to-Wear

#sophie turner #game of thrones #got #balmain #fall 2016 #ready to wear #fall collection #fashion #my stuff 2017

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miaswetnambcu · 3 years

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thefashioncomplex · 4 years

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Balmain Fall 2016 Ready-to-Wear

#fashion #balmain #jourdan dunn #fall fashion #fall 2016 #balmain fall 2016

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mcblingbrat · 4 years

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Buhmika Arora, Katja Ledneva, Saara Sihvonen, Lindsey Wixson, Jourdan Dunn, Ming Xi, Maryna Linchuk, Joan Smalls, and Genesis Vallejo walking in Balmain's Fall 2016 Ready To Wear Fashion Show.

#buhmika arora #katja ledneva #saara sihvonen #lindsey wixson #jourdan dunn #ming xi #maryna linchuk #joan smalls #genesis vallejo #balmain #ready to wear #fashion show #fashion #models #fashion collection #fashion week #2016

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kittyshiwa · 4 years

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Sin Saint Laurent ni Alexander McQueen: así será la próxima París Fashion Week#alexander #así #fashion #laurent #mcqueen #parís #próxima #saint #será #sin #week[penci_related_posts dis_pview="no" dis_pdate="no" title="También te puede interesar" background="" border="" thumbright="no" number="4" style="list" align="none" withids="" displayby="tag" orderby="date"]

Madrid – La Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode francesa, organización responsable de velar por el sector de la moda en el país galo y de la celebración de sus respectivas Semanas de la Moda y de la Alta Costura, ya ha dado a conocer el que será el calendario oficial de desfiles de la próxima Semana de la Moda de París. Pasarela que servirá para la presentación de las colecciones para la temporada Primavera/Verano de 2021, programada para los próximos días del 28 de septiembre al 6 de octubre, y que llegará con sonadas ausencias e importantes novedades, tanto en cuanto a contenido como a su forma.

Adaptándose así a las nuevas circunstancias devenidas a cuenta de esta pandemia por coronavirus, en lo relativo a su formato la principal transformación resultará sin duda de la apuesta llevada a cabo por parte de la organización por un modelo de pasarela híbrida, en la que se combinarán los desfiles y las presentaciones físicas con las digitales. Sirviéndose para ello de las mismas herramientas que la organización ya pusiese en funcionamiento durante las pasadas Paris Fashion Week Online, en su búsqueda por garantizar la seguridad de los asistentes y dar cumplimiento a todas las recomendaciones realizadas por parte de las autoridades francesas. Un esquema similar al que han anunciado ya las otras grandes citas del calendario internacional, desde la Semana de la Moda de Madrid (del 10 al 13 de septiembre), a las de Nueva York (del 13 al 17 de septiembre), Londres (del 17 al 22 de septiembre) y Milán (del 22 al 28 de septiembre), que será utilizado en el caso de la pasarela parisina como un importante paso en el restablecimiento de los desfiles físicos, tras las últimas experiencias, exclusivamente digitales, de sus pasadas ediciones de la Semana de la Alta Costura y de la Semana de la Moda Masculina de París.

Con destacadas ausencias y 10 nuevas incorporaciones

Poniendo el ojo ya en las firmas que participarán del próximo calendario oficial de desfiles presentado desde la Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, llama poderosamente la atención las destacadas ausencias de firmas tan consagradas y conocidas entre el gran público como la Comme des Garçons de la japonesa Rei Kawakubo, que junto a sus firmas asociadas Junya Watanabe y Noir Kei Ninomiya confirmaban el pasado viernes su no participación en esta edición de la pasarela; del mismo modo que tampoco lo harán la francesa Céline, la Off-White de Virgil Abloh o las firmas del Grupo Kering Alexander McQueen y Saint Laurent. Casa que por su parte ya adelantaba, el pasado mes de abril, la cancelación de todos sus desfiles y presentaciones del año con el objetivo de pasar a crear un nuevo modelo de presentaciones cuyos tiempos se encargará de marcar la propia firma de moda francesa.

Unas destacadas ausencias sin duda, que se verán compensadas por la firme apuesta que el resto de las principales firmas habituales de la pasarela continuarán mostrando hacia la Semana de la Moda de París. En cuya próxima edición podremos volver a disfrutar de las novedades de firmas tan destacadas como Lanvin, Balmain, Loewe, Givenchy, Chanel o Louis Vuitton, a las que por primera vez se sumarán un total de 10 nuevas casas de moda participantes: las casa francesa AMI, Ester Manas, Mossi y Vejas; la danesa Cecilie Bahnsen; la británica, y ganadora del LVMH Prize de 2016, Gales Bonner; y las estadounidenses Enfants Richies Deprimes, Gabriela Hearst y S.R. Studio. LA. CA. Elevando así con su presencia hasta 88 el número de “maisons” que participarán de esta próxima Paris Fashion Week.

88 marcas participantes, con Veja, Stella McCartney o Vivienne Westwood poniendo el foco en la sostenibilidad

Atendiendo así a lo programado desde la Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, la próxima edición de la Semana de la Moda parisina arrancará, el lunes 28 a las 17:00h, de la mano de la japonesa Mame Kurogouchi, a la que seguirán en esta sesión inaugural las presentaciones de Situationist (18:30h), Cecilie Bahnsen (19:00h) y S.R. Studio. LA. CA. (19:30).

Tras ellas, los desfiles se reanudarán ya el martes 29 de septiembre con la francesa Marine Serre (10:30h), seguida de Coperni (11:30h), Victor/Tomas (12:30h), Anrealage (13:30h), Dior (14:30h), Dawei (16:00h), Ottolinger (17:00h), Koché (18:00h) y Thebe Magugu (19:30h). El miércoles llegará ya la hora de Lanvin (09:30h), Kenzo (10:30h), Mugler (11:30h), Gauchere (12:30h), Litrovskaya (13:30h), Nehera (14:00h), Dries Van Noten (15:00h), Elie Saab (16:00h), Patou (17:00h), Acne Studios (18:30h) y Balmain (20:00h). Y ya durante el jueves 1 de octubre, los desfiles y presentaicones de Kenneth Ize (10:00h), Dice Kayek (11:00h), Maison Mai (11:30h), Ann Demeulemeester (12:30h), Chloe (14:00h), Y/Project (15:30), Uma Wang (16:30), Boyarovskaya (17:00), Rick Owens (18:00h), Enfants Riches Déprimés (19:00h) e Isabel Marant (20:00h).

A lo largo de las siguientes jornadas, podremos igualmente asistir, durante el viernes 2 de octubre, a las presentaciones de Emanuel Ungaro (09:30h), Leonard París (10:30h), Alexander Vauthier (11:00h), Loewe (11:30h), Issey Miyake (12:30h), Christian Wijnants (13:30h), Nina Ricci (14:30), Germanier (15:30h), Olivier Theyskens (16:00h), Andrew GN (17:00h), Lutz Huelle (18:00h) y Yohji Yamamoto (19:00h). El sábado, a los de Ester Manas (09:30h), Haider Ackermann (10:30h), Junko Shimada (12:00h), Altuzarra (13:00h), Vivienne Westwood (14:00h), Hermès (15:00h), Paco Rabanne (16:00h), Mazarine (18:00h), Calvin Luo (19:00h)y Ami Alexander Mattiussi (20:00h). Durante el domingo, 4 de octubre, a los de Schiaparelli (10:00h), Balenciaga (11:30h), Gabriela Hearst (13:00h), Thom Browne (14:00h), Anais Jourden (15:00h), Beautiful People (16:00h), Vejas (17:00h), Each x Other (18:00h), Wos (18:30h), Mashama (19:00h) y Givenchy (20:00h). Y ya durante el lunes, 5 de octubre, a los de Stella McCartney (10:00h), Kristina Fidelskaya (11:00h), Moohong (11:30h), Anton Belinskiy (12:00h), Giambattista Valli (13:30h), Agnès B (14:30h), Akris (15:30h), Xuly Bët (16:30h), Schiatzy Chen (18:00h), Mossi (19:00h) y Rokh (20:00h). Encargándose de poner el broche final de esta edición, durante el martes 6 de octubre, último día de desfiles, las presentaciones de las casas Chanel (10:30h), Valentin Yudashkin (12:30h), Sadaels (13:00h), Jarelzhang (13:30h), Miu Miu (14:30h), Maison Margiela (15:30h) y Louis Vuitton (16:30h).

Photo Credits: Chanel, colección Ready-to-wear Fall-Winter 2020-2021.

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