#bc we only had like black vine pepper

[canvasclothiers]

Northern Spain’s “Small California” (Spotlight On Somontano)

[ Editor’s note: Following is a piece that a wrote for a magazine, but after waiting over a year for them to publish it and pay me, I’m giving up and putting it here so that it can see the light of day and you can get some insight into a region that doesn’t see a lot of media play. Enjoy! ]

Northern Spain’s “Small California”

Why your next favorite Cab, Merlot, or Gewürztraminer might just be coming from Somontano

Take a second or two, and think about your favorite Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot, your go-to Chardonnay, even your last Gewürztraminer.

What region was emblazoned on the labels of those tasty wine? Paso Robles? Washington? Chile?

Chances are very good that the word “Somontano” was not the area printed on the label. And yet, chances are also very good that this relatively small northern Spanish Denominación de Origen has been growing those same fine wine grapes longer than the more famous regions that produce your favorite versions of those same wines.

Somontano’s ancient Alquézar

Like most of the wine regions in Western Europe, viticulture in Somontano was probably established by the Romans, and also probable predates reliable written history, extending back to the second century BC. That it took the region until 1984 to become an officially recognized  Denominación de Origen (DO) is, in a way, indicative of the minor identity crisis that defines the modern Somontano. At a time when “uniqueness” is the marketing battle cry of most luxury fine wine regions, Somontano is the odd man out.

Of the grapes officially permitted in the DO, only three (the white Alcañón, and reds Moristel and Parraleta) are indigenous. A few others (such as Garnacha and Tempranillo) are Spanish in origin but not native to Somontano. The rest are a hodgepodge of some of the wine world’s most famous – and decidedly not Spanish – grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Pinot noir, Chardonnay, and Gewürztraminer.

What makes Somontano such an awkwardly difficult topic in marketing meetings is the same thing that makes many of its wines so good: the place has a great climate growing famous international grape varieties. As winemaker Jesús Artajona Serrano, from Enate (one of the founders of the Somontano DO) puts it, “we are in a small California…”

Cellars of Pirieneos

Roughly translated, Somontano means “foot of the mountains.” Protected by the Pyrenees, the area sits at the edge of the European plate, on soils that were part of an ancient ocean, topped with runoff from the nearby mountains. While the climate is mostly continental, the proximity to the mountains allows for large diurnal temperature shifts, which fine wine grapes happen to love. The Pyrenees also help to keep the area relatively dry and sunny. Bodega Pirineos winemaker Jesús Astrain Losilla summarizes Somontano’s favorable climatic situation quite eloquently: “it’s like a theatre at the foot of the mountains.”

With beautiful ancient cities such as Alquézar (which, along with nearby Barbastro, is an UNESCO World Heritage Site), and stunning natural caverns that attract canyoning aficionados and adventure seekers, Somontano wine exposure isn’t struggling in terms of the tourist perspective. Sitting on a terrace and taking in the view of Alquézar after a hike while sipping a chilled wine made from grapes that you already know has got to be one of the more pleasant things that one can do in all of Europe, after all. There’s also a popular wine, art, and music festival, held annually in August. The Somontano DO headquarters (located in a building that dates back to the sixteenth century) is renovating to keep up with the tourist demand, updating their restaurant, wine shop, tasting room, and small museum.

Modern artwork at Enate’s gallery

But beyond the medieval walls and the narrow stone roads of its ancient cities, Somontano’s international wine variety focus is a much tougher sell. That the region can do so many things well is certainly its strong-suit, but that also means that its products face an inordinate amount of competition on the world’s wine shelves, even when you consider that the global wine market is arguably at the most competitive point it has ever seen in its centuries-long history. So, how did all of this happen in the first place?

During the Middle Ages, the area that would become Somontano saw a continuation in the winemaking traditions established by the Romans, in the form of Catholic monasteries that saw wine as both an essential beverage and a requirement for religious services (their influence, both ancient and modern, is on ample picturesque display in Somontano, drawing large numbers of tourists each year to sites such as the Torreciudad Shrine). But it was the nineteenth century that would set the course of Somontano’s winemaking future. In the 1800s, the early stages of the phylloxera louse epidemic (which would decimate much of the established vineyards in Europe) first swept through France. During that time, desperate wine and grape-growing businesses looked to other regions for economic salvation, leading some of them to Northern Spain. The result was an exponential increase in winemaking, sales, and exports for the Somontano area, and plantings of some of France’s most famous wine grape varieties.

That explains what grapes like Gewürztraminer are doing in Somontano. In that particular case, the variety was transplanted from Alsace, which makes sense when you think about it; the regions are relatively close to one another, and share some important climatic influences, like nearby mountain ranges. Where they differ are in things like sun exposure – there is more of that in Somontano, so its Gewürztraminer wines tend to be riper and more powerful than their Alsatian cousins. The grape has done so well here, in fact, that Somontano now has about 400 hectares of Gewürztraminer plantings.

Pirineos’ Losilla has a compelling take on both the marketing strength and challenge that Somontano faces on the international wine market: “The philosophy is diversity.” Here’s an introduction to a handful of Somontano’s most compelling examples of that diversity.

Bodega Pirieneos 2010 Señorio de Lazán Reserva

Pirieneos evolved from a pioneering co-operative in the region, going private in the early 1990s, and now represents about twenty-five percent of the entire Somontano DO. Most of their vineyards are dry-farmed, with naturally low grape yields that are harvested at night to protect the grapes from the heat. The name of their Reserva is a tribute to the Lazán mountain in the Sierra de la Candelera, and the former marquis who was a lord of the area. This blend also pays tribute to the triple-threat identity of Somontano, using the international Cabernet Sauvignon, Spanish Tempranillo, and local Moristel. Their Reserva might also be the forerunner of oak-aged red wines in the region. It’s floral, peppery, and generous with blackcurrant fruit flavors and notes of tobacco and coffee.

  Enate 2016 Chardonnay-234

Enate, celebrating its twenty-fifth anniversary in 2017, is one of the founders of the Somontano DO, producing about 2.5 million bottles per year. The brand is probably most famous regionally for the artwork that it commissions for its labels, much of which then goes on display in its impressive museum. Its Chardonnay is lively and pretty, with aromas of white flowers, citrus, and peach, and flavors of apricots and pears. It’s pithy, persistent, and a versatile match with food.

Enate 2012 Cabernet-Cabernet

So good that they had to name it twice? Well, once could certainly make an argument for that. The idea of this wine is to blend two different styles of Cabernet Sauvignon – a leaner, serious European take and a riper, generous Mediterranean side. It works; the result is a modern, juicy, plummy red with power and structure, but also with good balance and intriguing notes of toast, dried herbs, spice, and cigar.

  Batán de Salas DeBeroz 2016 Essencia de Gewürztraminer

Batán de Salas de Beroz is headed up by current Somontano DO president Mariano Beroz Bandrés. In contrast to the region’s other fine wine producers, who in many cases have either large, ultra-modern facilities or long, storied histories, Batán de Salas is  small operator, housed unassumingly in an industrial area. They have steel tanks to one side, bottle storage to the other, and barrels and concrete in between. As Beroz puts it, “we make garage wine, in a bigger garage.” Their Gewürztraminer is a textural, focused, and serious effort that belies their small size. The white has intense rose petal notes, with ample stone fruits, apples, and citrus flavors.

A sense of humor at Batán de Salas’ tasting room

Viñas del Vero 2014 La Miranda Secastilla Garnacha

Viñas del Vero, and its sister winery Blecua Estate, are high-end, boutique operations owned by the González Byass group, who operate over twenty wine brands worldwide. That corporate ownership seems to have little trickle-down impact on the Somontano wines overseen by the talented José Ferrer, who has a winemaking touch equally as impressive as the renovated Blecua Estate in which he works. The Secastilla red is produced primarily from old vine Garnacha planted in organic vineyards that are over 700 meters above sea level. The combination of unique site and attention to detail in the cellar results in a lovely, fleshy, refined, and complex wine. Notes of violets, black pepper, spices, and dried herbs combine with fresh blue, black, and red plum flavors, and enough structure to suggest that some cellaring patience will pay dividends later. [ Editor’s note: for more on this stellar producer, check out the feature that ran here earlier. ]

Bullet holes from the Spanish Civil War are still visible on some of Lalanne’s barrels.

Lalanne 2011 Lataste Gran Vino

The history of Lalanne parallels the history of modern Somontano wine, and their roots in the area run as deep as any of the region’s oldest vines. This family-run outfit was established by an offshoot of a Bordelais family that decided to move to the area during the phylloxera epidemic in the late 1890s. The family has run a local hotel, regional trains and boats (guess what those were used to transport…), and owned a hydroelectric plant that once provided the majority of Somontano’s electricity. Not surprisingly, Lalanne is one of the oldest commercial wineries in the region, and one of the founding DO members. Some of their large oak casks still bear bullet holes from the Spanish civil war. Their Lataste (named after their founder’s wife) is an interesting example of Somontano’s potential, blending all of the DO’s red international varieties – Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, and Pinot Noir (with a bit of Tempranillo, as well). Each vineyard plot is selected, fermented, and aged separately before blending. It’s an “old school” dark and earthy red, with notes of chalk, leather, prunes, and licorice.

  Sommos 2016 Glárima Variatales Blanco

Sommos is an architectural wonder. Designed by Jesus Marino Pascual, the winery has twenty-seven meters above ground, and extends the same distance underground, as well. Its ultra-modern facade houses an antiseptically clean, mechanized, cavernous interior where just about every stage of the winemaking process is carried out by large, impressive machinery. Almost as impressive are the experimental vineyards surrounding Sommos, in which twenty different vine training systems are being used. The calling card of the winery is their Glárima white, a blend of Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir. Aromas of hay, roses, and apples give way to pear and citrus flavors, with a texture that is both intellectual and delicious.

Sommos 2014 Merlot

If you like your Merlot on the dark and toasty side, then you’ll love this red. Dark and plummy, with ample tannic structure and full body, Sommos’ Merlot is a complex beast of a wine, with aromas of oak, vanilla, tobacco, and even smoked meat.

  Laus 2016 Rosado

Across the street from Somos sits Laus, a winery in transition (with redesigned labels, and a restaurant and spa in development) whose clean, stylized exterior would look ultra-modern if not for its slightly ultra-modern neighbor. The name means “grace,” and certainly its combination of 100 hectares of well-tended vineyards and calming water pools (used to help cool the winery areas underneath) will have a calming effect on just about any visitor. Winemaker Jesús Mur has crafted an instantly accessible rosé from Laus’ Syrah and Garnacha. It has a beautiful watermelon color, with strawberry flavors and a tasty, vibrant mouthfeel.

Modern styling marks the construction at Laus

Laus 2013 Tinto Crianza

A 50/50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with eight months of French oak aging, this red is a testament to the Bordeaux heritage of Somontano’s modern wine scene. Pure flavors of cassis and plum mingle with clove, violet, toast, and cigar aromas in this focused and fresh wine. If its structure is any indication, Laus have an overachiever on their hands here that will mellow out and get even more delicious with a bit of bottle aging.

Cheers!

Grab The 1WineDude.com Tasting Guide and start getting more out of every glass of wine today!

Shop Wine Products at Amazon.com

Copyright © 2016. Originally at Northern Spain’s “Small California” (Spotlight On Somontano) from 1WineDude.com – for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers!

Source: http://www.1winedude.com/northern-spains-small-california-spotlight-on-somontano/

[static-pouring]

Northern Spain’s “Small California” (Spotlight On Somontano)

[ Editor’s note: Following is a piece that a wrote for a magazine, but after waiting over a year for them to publish it and pay me, I’m giving up and putting it here so that it can see the light of day and you can get some insight into a region that doesn’t see a lot of media play. Enjoy! ]

Northern Spain’s “Small California”

Why your next favorite Cab, Merlot, or Gewürztraminer might just be coming from Somontano

Take a second or two, and think about your favorite Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot, your go-to Chardonnay, even your last Gewürztraminer.

What region was emblazoned on the labels of those tasty wine? Paso Robles? Washington? Chile?

Chances are very good that the word “Somontano” was not the area printed on the label. And yet, chances are also very good that this relatively small northern Spanish Denominación de Origen has been growing those same fine wine grapes longer than the more famous regions that produce your favorite versions of those same wines.

Somontano’s ancient Alquézar

Like most of the wine regions in Western Europe, viticulture in Somontano was probably established by the Romans, and also probable predates reliable written history, extending back to the second century BC. That it took the region until 1984 to become an officially recognized  Denominación de Origen (DO) is, in a way, indicative of the minor identity crisis that defines the modern Somontano. At a time when “uniqueness” is the marketing battle cry of most luxury fine wine regions, Somontano is the odd man out.

Of the grapes officially permitted in the DO, only three (the white Alcañón, and reds Moristel and Parraleta) are indigenous. A few others (such as Garnacha and Tempranillo) are Spanish in origin but not native to Somontano. The rest are a hodgepodge of some of the wine world’s most famous – and decidedly not Spanish – grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Pinot noir, Chardonnay, and Gewürztraminer.

What makes Somontano such an awkwardly difficult topic in marketing meetings is the same thing that makes many of its wines so good: the place has a great climate growing famous international grape varieties. As winemaker Jesús Artajona Serrano, from Enate (one of the founders of the Somontano DO) puts it, “we are in a small California…”

Cellars of Pirieneos

Roughly translated, Somontano means “foot of the mountains.” Protected by the Pyrenees, the area sits at the edge of the European plate, on soils that were part of an ancient ocean, topped with runoff from the nearby mountains. While the climate is mostly continental, the proximity to the mountains allows for large diurnal temperature shifts, which fine wine grapes happen to love. The Pyrenees also help to keep the area relatively dry and sunny. Bodega Pirineos winemaker Jesús Astrain Losilla summarizes Somontano’s favorable climatic situation quite eloquently: “it’s like a theatre at the foot of the mountains.”

With beautiful ancient cities such as Alquézar (which, along with nearby Barbastro, is an UNESCO World Heritage Site), and stunning natural caverns that attract canyoning aficionados and adventure seekers, Somontano wine exposure isn’t struggling in terms of the tourist perspective. Sitting on a terrace and taking in the view of Alquézar after a hike while sipping a chilled wine made from grapes that you already know has got to be one of the more pleasant things that one can do in all of Europe, after all. There’s also a popular wine, art, and music festival, held annually in August. The Somontano DO headquarters (located in a building that dates back to the sixteenth century) is renovating to keep up with the tourist demand, updating their restaurant, wine shop, tasting room, and small museum.

Modern artwork at Enate’s gallery

But beyond the medieval walls and the narrow stone roads of its ancient cities, Somontano’s international wine variety focus is a much tougher sell. That the region can do so many things well is certainly its strong-suit, but that also means that its products face an inordinate amount of competition on the world’s wine shelves, even when you consider that the global wine market is arguably at the most competitive point it has ever seen in its centuries-long history. So, how did all of this happen in the first place?

During the Middle Ages, the area that would become Somontano saw a continuation in the winemaking traditions established by the Romans, in the form of Catholic monasteries that saw wine as both an essential beverage and a requirement for religious services (their influence, both ancient and modern, is on ample picturesque display in Somontano, drawing large numbers of tourists each year to sites such as the Torreciudad Shrine). But it was the nineteenth century that would set the course of Somontano’s winemaking future. In the 1800s, the early stages of the phylloxera louse epidemic (which would decimate much of the established vineyards in Europe) first swept through France. During that time, desperate wine and grape-growing businesses looked to other regions for economic salvation, leading some of them to Northern Spain. The result was an exponential increase in winemaking, sales, and exports for the Somontano area, and plantings of some of France’s most famous wine grape varieties.

That explains what grapes like Gewürztraminer are doing in Somontano. In that particular case, the variety was transplanted from Alsace, which makes sense when you think about it; the regions are relatively close to one another, and share some important climatic influences, like nearby mountain ranges. Where they differ are in things like sun exposure – there is more of that in Somontano, so its Gewürztraminer wines tend to be riper and more powerful than their Alsatian cousins. The grape has done so well here, in fact, that Somontano now has about 400 hectares of Gewürztraminer plantings.

Pirineos’ Losilla has a compelling take on both the marketing strength and challenge that Somontano faces on the international wine market: “The philosophy is diversity.” Here’s an introduction to a handful of Somontano’s most compelling examples of that diversity.

Bodega Pirieneos 2010 Señorio de Lazán Reserva

Pirieneos evolved from a pioneering co-operative in the region, going private in the early 1990s, and now represents about twenty-five percent of the entire Somontano DO. Most of their vineyards are dry-farmed, with naturally low grape yields that are harvested at night to protect the grapes from the heat. The name of their Reserva is a tribute to the Lazán mountain in the Sierra de la Candelera, and the former marquis who was a lord of the area. This blend also pays tribute to the triple-threat identity of Somontano, using the international Cabernet Sauvignon, Spanish Tempranillo, and local Moristel. Their Reserva might also be the forerunner of oak-aged red wines in the region. It’s floral, peppery, and generous with blackcurrant fruit flavors and notes of tobacco and coffee.

Enate 2016 Chardonnay-234

Enate, celebrating its twenty-fifth anniversary in 2017, is one of the founders of the Somontano DO, producing about 2.5 million bottles per year. The brand is probably most famous regionally for the artwork that it commissions for its labels, much of which then goes on display in its impressive museum. Its Chardonnay is lively and pretty, with aromas of white flowers, citrus, and peach, and flavors of apricots and pears. It’s pithy, persistent, and a versatile match with food.

Enate 2012 Cabernet-Cabernet

So good that they had to name it twice? Well, once could certainly make an argument for that. The idea of this wine is to blend two different styles of Cabernet Sauvignon – a leaner, serious European take and a riper, generous Mediterranean side. It works; the result is a modern, juicy, plummy red with power and structure, but also with good balance and intriguing notes of toast, dried herbs, spice, and cigar.

Batán de Salas DeBeroz 2016 Essencia de Gewürztraminer

Batán de Salas de Beroz is headed up by current Somontano DO president Mariano Beroz Bandrés. In contrast to the region’s other fine wine producers, who in many cases have either large, ultra-modern facilities or long, storied histories, Batán de Salas is  small operator, housed unassumingly in an industrial area. They have steel tanks to one side, bottle storage to the other, and barrels and concrete in between. As Beroz puts it, “we make garage wine, in a bigger garage.” Their Gewürztraminer is a textural, focused, and serious effort that belies their small size. The white has intense rose petal notes, with ample stone fruits, apples, and citrus flavors.

A sense of humor at Batán de Salas’ tasting room

Viñas del Vero 2014 La Miranda Secastilla Garnacha

Viñas del Vero, and its sister winery Blecua Estate, are high-end, boutique operations owned by the González Byass group, who operate over twenty wine brands worldwide. That corporate ownership seems to have little trickle-down impact on the Somontano wines overseen by the talented José Ferrer, who has a winemaking touch equally as impressive as the renovated Blecua Estate in which he works. The Secastilla red is produced primarily from old vine Garnacha planted in organic vineyards that are over 700 meters above sea level. The combination of unique site and attention to detail in the cellar results in a lovely, fleshy, refined, and complex wine. Notes of violets, black pepper, spices, and dried herbs combine with fresh blue, black, and red plum flavors, and enough structure to suggest that some cellaring patience will pay dividends later. [ Editor’s note: for more on this stellar producer, check out the feature that ran here earlier. ]

Bullet holes from the Spanish Civil War are still visible on some of Lalanne’s barrels.

Lalanne 2011 Lataste Gran Vino

The history of Lalanne parallels the history of modern Somontano wine, and their roots in the area run as deep as any of the region’s oldest vines. This family-run outfit was established by an offshoot of a Bordelais family that decided to move to the area during the phylloxera epidemic in the late 1890s. The family has run a local hotel, regional trains and boats (guess what those were used to transport…), and owned a hydroelectric plant that once provided the majority of Somontano’s electricity. Not surprisingly, Lalanne is one of the oldest commercial wineries in the region, and one of the founding DO members. Some of their large oak casks still bear bullet holes from the Spanish civil war. Their Lataste (named after their founder’s wife) is an interesting example of Somontano’s potential, blending all of the DO’s red international varieties – Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, and Pinot Noir (with a bit of Tempranillo, as well). Each vineyard plot is selected, fermented, and aged separately before blending. It’s an “old school” dark and earthy red, with notes of chalk, leather, prunes, and licorice.

Sommos 2016 Glárima Variatales Blanco

Sommos is an architectural wonder. Designed by Jesus Marino Pascual, the winery has twenty-seven meters above ground, and extends the same distance underground, as well. Its ultra-modern facade houses an antiseptically clean, mechanized, cavernous interior where just about every stage of the winemaking process is carried out by large, impressive machinery. Almost as impressive are the experimental vineyards surrounding Sommos, in which twenty different vine training systems are being used. The calling card of the winery is their Glárima white, a blend of Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir. Aromas of hay, roses, and apples give way to pear and citrus flavors, with a texture that is both intellectual and delicious.

Sommos 2014 Merlot

If you like your Merlot on the dark and toasty side, then you’ll love this red. Dark and plummy, with ample tannic structure and full body, Sommos’ Merlot is a complex beast of a wine, with aromas of oak, vanilla, tobacco, and even smoked meat.

Laus 2016 Rosado

Across the street from Somos sits Laus, a winery in transition (with redesigned labels, and a restaurant and spa in development) whose clean, stylized exterior would look ultra-modern if not for its slightly ultra-modern neighbor. The name means “grace,” and certainly its combination of 100 hectares of well-tended vineyards and calming water pools (used to help cool the winery areas underneath) will have a calming effect on just about any visitor. Winemaker Jesús Mur has crafted an instantly accessible rosé from Laus’ Syrah and Garnacha. It has a beautiful watermelon color, with strawberry flavors and a tasty, vibrant mouthfeel.

Modern styling marks the construction at Laus

Laus 2013 Tinto Crianza

A 50/50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with eight months of French oak aging, this red is a testament to the Bordeaux heritage of Somontano’s modern wine scene. Pure flavors of cassis and plum mingle with clove, violet, toast, and cigar aromas in this focused and fresh wine. If its structure is any indication, Laus have an overachiever on their hands here that will mellow out and get even more delicious with a bit of bottle aging.

Cheers!

Grab The 1WineDude.com Tasting Guide and start getting more out of every glass of wine today!

Shop Wine Products at Amazon.com

Copyright © 2016. Originally at Northern Spain’s “Small California” (Spotlight On Somontano) from 1WineDude.com - for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers! Source: http://www.1winedude.com/northern-spains-small-california-spotlight-on-somontano/

[neurotic-nimrod]

Northern Spain’s “Small California” (Spotlight On Somontano)

[ Editor’s note: Following is a piece that a wrote for a magazine, but after waiting over a year for them to publish it and pay me, I’m giving up and putting it here so that it can see the light of day and you can get some insight into a region that doesn’t see a lot of media play. Enjoy! ]

Northern Spain’s “Small California”

Why your next favorite Cab, Merlot, or Gewürztraminer might just be coming from Somontano

Take a second or two, and think about your favorite Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot, your go-to Chardonnay, even your last Gewürztraminer.

What region was emblazoned on the labels of those tasty wine? Paso Robles? Washington? Chile?

Chances are very good that the word “Somontano” was not the area printed on the label. And yet, chances are also very good that this relatively small northern Spanish Denominación de Origen has been growing those same fine wine grapes longer than the more famous regions that produce your favorite versions of those same wines.

Somontano’s ancient Alquézar

Like most of the wine regions in Western Europe, viticulture in Somontano was probably established by the Romans, and also probable predates reliable written history, extending back to the second century BC. That it took the region until 1984 to become an officially recognized  Denominación de Origen (DO) is, in a way, indicative of the minor identity crisis that defines the modern Somontano. At a time when “uniqueness” is the marketing battle cry of most luxury fine wine regions, Somontano is the odd man out.

Of the grapes officially permitted in the DO, only three (the white Alcañón, and reds Moristel and Parraleta) are indigenous. A few others (such as Garnacha and Tempranillo) are Spanish in origin but not native to Somontano. The rest are a hodgepodge of some of the wine world’s most famous – and decidedly not Spanish – grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Pinot noir, Chardonnay, and Gewürztraminer.

What makes Somontano such an awkwardly difficult topic in marketing meetings is the same thing that makes many of its wines so good: the place has a great climate growing famous international grape varieties. As winemaker Jesús Artajona Serrano, from Enate (one of the founders of the Somontano DO) puts it, “we are in a small California…”

Cellars of Pirieneos

Roughly translated, Somontano means “foot of the mountains.” Protected by the Pyrenees, the area sits at the edge of the European plate, on soils that were part of an ancient ocean, topped with runoff from the nearby mountains. While the climate is mostly continental, the proximity to the mountains allows for large diurnal temperature shifts, which fine wine grapes happen to love. The Pyrenees also help to keep the area relatively dry and sunny. Bodega Pirineos winemaker Jesús Astrain Losilla summarizes Somontano’s favorable climatic situation quite eloquently: “it’s like a theatre at the foot of the mountains.”

With beautiful ancient cities such as Alquézar (which, along with nearby Barbastro, is an UNESCO World Heritage Site), and stunning natural caverns that attract canyoning aficionados and adventure seekers, Somontano wine exposure isn’t struggling in terms of the tourist perspective. Sitting on a terrace and taking in the view of Alquézar after a hike while sipping a chilled wine made from grapes that you already know has got to be one of the more pleasant things that one can do in all of Europe, after all. There’s also a popular wine, art, and music festival, held annually in August. The Somontano DO headquarters (located in a building that dates back to the sixteenth century) is renovating to keep up with the tourist demand, updating their restaurant, wine shop, tasting room, and small museum.

Modern artwork at Enate’s gallery

But beyond the medieval walls and the narrow stone roads of its ancient cities, Somontano’s international wine variety focus is a much tougher sell. That the region can do so many things well is certainly its strong-suit, but that also means that its products face an inordinate amount of competition on the world’s wine shelves, even when you consider that the global wine market is arguably at the most competitive point it has ever seen in its centuries-long history. So, how did all of this happen in the first place?

During the Middle Ages, the area that would become Somontano saw a continuation in the winemaking traditions established by the Romans, in the form of Catholic monasteries that saw wine as both an essential beverage and a requirement for religious services (their influence, both ancient and modern, is on ample picturesque display in Somontano, drawing large numbers of tourists each year to sites such as the Torreciudad Shrine). But it was the nineteenth century that would set the course of Somontano’s winemaking future. In the 1800s, the early stages of the phylloxera louse epidemic (which would decimate much of the established vineyards in Europe) first swept through France. During that time, desperate wine and grape-growing businesses looked to other regions for economic salvation, leading some of them to Northern Spain. The result was an exponential increase in winemaking, sales, and exports for the Somontano area, and plantings of some of France’s most famous wine grape varieties.

That explains what grapes like Gewürztraminer are doing in Somontano. In that particular case, the variety was transplanted from Alsace, which makes sense when you think about it; the regions are relatively close to one another, and share some important climatic influences, like nearby mountain ranges. Where they differ are in things like sun exposure – there is more of that in Somontano, so its Gewürztraminer wines tend to be riper and more powerful than their Alsatian cousins. The grape has done so well here, in fact, that Somontano now has about 400 hectares of Gewürztraminer plantings.

Pirineos’ Losilla has a compelling take on both the marketing strength and challenge that Somontano faces on the international wine market: “The philosophy is diversity.” Here’s an introduction to a handful of Somontano’s most compelling examples of that diversity.

Bodega Pirieneos 2010 Señorio de Lazán Reserva

Pirieneos evolved from a pioneering co-operative in the region, going private in the early 1990s, and now represents about twenty-five percent of the entire Somontano DO. Most of their vineyards are dry-farmed, with naturally low grape yields that are harvested at night to protect the grapes from the heat. The name of their Reserva is a tribute to the Lazán mountain in the Sierra de la Candelera, and the former marquis who was a lord of the area. This blend also pays tribute to the triple-threat identity of Somontano, using the international Cabernet Sauvignon, Spanish Tempranillo, and local Moristel. Their Reserva might also be the forerunner of oak-aged red wines in the region. It’s floral, peppery, and generous with blackcurrant fruit flavors and notes of tobacco and coffee.

  Enate 2016 Chardonnay-234

Enate, celebrating its twenty-fifth anniversary in 2017, is one of the founders of the Somontano DO, producing about 2.5 million bottles per year. The brand is probably most famous regionally for the artwork that it commissions for its labels, much of which then goes on display in its impressive museum. Its Chardonnay is lively and pretty, with aromas of white flowers, citrus, and peach, and flavors of apricots and pears. It’s pithy, persistent, and a versatile match with food.

Enate 2012 Cabernet-Cabernet

So good that they had to name it twice? Well, once could certainly make an argument for that. The idea of this wine is to blend two different styles of Cabernet Sauvignon – a leaner, serious European take and a riper, generous Mediterranean side. It works; the result is a modern, juicy, plummy red with power and structure, but also with good balance and intriguing notes of toast, dried herbs, spice, and cigar.

  Batán de Salas DeBeroz 2016 Essencia de Gewürztraminer

Batán de Salas de Beroz is headed up by current Somontano DO president Mariano Beroz Bandrés. In contrast to the region’s other fine wine producers, who in many cases have either large, ultra-modern facilities or long, storied histories, Batán de Salas is  small operator, housed unassumingly in an industrial area. They have steel tanks to one side, bottle storage to the other, and barrels and concrete in between. As Beroz puts it, “we make garage wine, in a bigger garage.” Their Gewürztraminer is a textural, focused, and serious effort that belies their small size. The white has intense rose petal notes, with ample stone fruits, apples, and citrus flavors.

A sense of humor at Batán de Salas’ tasting room

Viñas del Vero 2014 La Miranda Secastilla Garnacha

Viñas del Vero, and its sister winery Blecua Estate, are high-end, boutique operations owned by the González Byass group, who operate over twenty wine brands worldwide. That corporate ownership seems to have little trickle-down impact on the Somontano wines overseen by the talented José Ferrer, who has a winemaking touch equally as impressive as the renovated Blecua Estate in which he works. The Secastilla red is produced primarily from old vine Garnacha planted in organic vineyards that are over 700 meters above sea level. The combination of unique site and attention to detail in the cellar results in a lovely, fleshy, refined, and complex wine. Notes of violets, black pepper, spices, and dried herbs combine with fresh blue, black, and red plum flavors, and enough structure to suggest that some cellaring patience will pay dividends later. [ Editor’s note: for more on this stellar producer, check out the feature that ran here earlier. ]

Bullet holes from the Spanish Civil War are still visible on some of Lalanne’s barrels.

Lalanne 2011 Lataste Gran Vino

The history of Lalanne parallels the history of modern Somontano wine, and their roots in the area run as deep as any of the region’s oldest vines. This family-run outfit was established by an offshoot of a Bordelais family that decided to move to the area during the phylloxera epidemic in the late 1890s. The family has run a local hotel, regional trains and boats (guess what those were used to transport…), and owned a hydroelectric plant that once provided the majority of Somontano’s electricity. Not surprisingly, Lalanne is one of the oldest commercial wineries in the region, and one of the founding DO members. Some of their large oak casks still bear bullet holes from the Spanish civil war. Their Lataste (named after their founder’s wife) is an interesting example of Somontano’s potential, blending all of the DO’s red international varieties – Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, and Pinot Noir (with a bit of Tempranillo, as well). Each vineyard plot is selected, fermented, and aged separately before blending. It’s an “old school” dark and earthy red, with notes of chalk, leather, prunes, and licorice.

  Sommos 2016 Glárima Variatales Blanco

Sommos is an architectural wonder. Designed by Jesus Marino Pascual, the winery has twenty-seven meters above ground, and extends the same distance underground, as well. Its ultra-modern facade houses an antiseptically clean, mechanized, cavernous interior where just about every stage of the winemaking process is carried out by large, impressive machinery. Almost as impressive are the experimental vineyards surrounding Sommos, in which twenty different vine training systems are being used. The calling card of the winery is their Glárima white, a blend of Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir. Aromas of hay, roses, and apples give way to pear and citrus flavors, with a texture that is both intellectual and delicious.

Sommos 2014 Merlot

If you like your Merlot on the dark and toasty side, then you’ll love this red. Dark and plummy, with ample tannic structure and full body, Sommos’ Merlot is a complex beast of a wine, with aromas of oak, vanilla, tobacco, and even smoked meat.

  Laus 2016 Rosado

Across the street from Somos sits Laus, a winery in transition (with redesigned labels, and a restaurant and spa in development) whose clean, stylized exterior would look ultra-modern if not for its slightly ultra-modern neighbor. The name means “grace,” and certainly its combination of 100 hectares of well-tended vineyards and calming water pools (used to help cool the winery areas underneath) will have a calming effect on just about any visitor. Winemaker Jesús Mur has crafted an instantly accessible rosé from Laus’ Syrah and Garnacha. It has a beautiful watermelon color, with strawberry flavors and a tasty, vibrant mouthfeel.

Modern styling marks the construction at Laus

Laus 2013 Tinto Crianza

A 50/50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with eight months of French oak aging, this red is a testament to the Bordeaux heritage of Somontano’s modern wine scene. Pure flavors of cassis and plum mingle with clove, violet, toast, and cigar aromas in this focused and fresh wine. If its structure is any indication, Laus have an overachiever on their hands here that will mellow out and get even more delicious with a bit of bottle aging.

Cheers!

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Copyright © 2016. Originally at Northern Spain’s “Small California” (Spotlight On Somontano) from 1WineDude.com - for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers! Source: http://www.1winedude.com/northern-spains-small-california-spotlight-on-somontano/

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Jorge Miroslav Jara Salas: Italy, divine land of wine

Wine in Italy is much more than a drink. Much more than a lifestyle. It is a priesthood. From Veneto to Sicily, all regions produce wine, without exception. Its viticulture goes back to the oldest antiquity: the Romans and before them the Etruscans, already cultivated vines. The Greeks even gave the territory the nickname of Œnotria, meaning the land of wine.

With 690,000 hectares planted and no less than 9.2% of the world’s wine surface, let’s embark for an overview of the world’s largest producer since 2015(1).

Sardinia, the island where the Su’entu blows

Turning back the paths of Italy, starting with Sardinia, we met Stephano and Imma Flores, a lovely Sardinian-Catalan couple, on an epic ferry trip departing from the port of Barcelona.

A meeting as beautiful as fortuitous, which gave us the pleasure of being welcomed by the family of Stephano during three days, in the small coastal village of Marceddi, west of Sardinia. After having literally installed our motorhome in their garden, we were offered – among other local specialties – to enjoy delicious octopus spaghetti and cockle penne.

Fate would have even wanted us to stay during the feasts of the Madonna (mid-August). A sacred annual procession for Marceddi, during which a procession of hundreds of bikers and pilgrims follow the statue of the Madonna throughout the village, ending at the church. Then a weekend of festivities starts.

A superb introduction to the subject, before heading to the vineyards, further south.

We had an appointment at Su’entu estate, south of the island, where we met Salvatore Pilloni, the founder, and his daughter Roberta. A charming family property, which covers 50 hectares, 32 of which are planted with vines. “Su’entu” means “wind” in local dialect.

Because at the top of the vineyard wind blows continuously throughout the year, bringing a unique freshness to the grapes of the estate, in this hot region of the Mediterranean. In the evening, the humidity suddenly dropped on the property, where we spent the night. A coat was more than welcome.

Discovery of the autochthonous red varietal Bovale, a grape that has been forgotten because considered rustic. Personally, we loved it, with its aromas of black fruit, cedar and blackberry. “Before the Phylloxera crisis (late nineteenth century), Italy had more than a thousand different grape varieties.

Today, there are still hundreds”, Roberta explained to us. Adding : “it is fundamental to preserve our heritage, which is both our strength and our identity”.

Cantina del Vesuvio, at the foot of the volcano

Discovering the Cantina del Vesuvio, a 12-hectare property planted on the volcanic soils of the Vesuvius.

Probably the best way to discover the wines of the “Lacryma Christi” appellation, a D.O.C. mainly producing wines from the indigenous varieties Caprettone (white) and Piedirosso (red), on the slopes of the Vesuvius. “Wine has been produced here since ancient Roman times ; its first mention going back to the 5th century BC”, Maurizio Russo, the owner said.

Halfway between Naples and Pompeii, the Cantina del Vesuvio is a must see in the region. Maurizio’s family has been producing wine since 1948, four years after the last eruption of Vesuvius!

The gray dust soils that cover the vineyard are unique and bring to the wines of the domain a real typicity. Their blend of Piedirosso and Aglianico, a red wine with a strong character, was a perfect accompaniment during lunch time with home-made lasagna.

And if you want to continue the experience, Maurizio’s family offers cooking classes at home, around traditional Italian dishes that you will prepare together and then enjoy, with your family, friends or with your beloved, while drinking the wines of the estate.

A beautiful moment.

Do you know the DOC Tarquinia?!

Halfway between Rome and Grosseto, the DOC Tarquinia is one of the most interesting viticultural areas of the Lazio region. A new one for us, in a country that has no less than 300 000 vineyards, two-thirds of which have a planted area of less than 2 hectares.

Visiting Muscari Tomajoli estate, a nice example of the dynamism of the Tarquinia DOC. This family winery of 2 hectares is located only a few kilometers from the Mediterranean sea. Accessing the vineyard with our camper was a challenge, as we had to drive for 1km of narrow and winding roads in the forest, before arriving on the property.

Planted in 2007 by Marco (the son) and Sergio (the father, who tragically passed away since), the estate produces wines built for gastronomy. Impressive. Five grape varieties make the vineyard’s reputation: Montepulciano, Petit verdot, Alicante bouschet, Barbera and Vermentino.

A nice discovery that we were happy to have been able to share with two friends, what a weekend! Generous donors during our participatory fundraising campaign last year, Philippe and Gaëlle dreamt of visiting the Italian vineyard aboard our motorhome. It’s done now! A very nice moment of sharing, gastronomy, petanque, laughter and friendship. That’s also the Wine Explorers adventure.

Tuscany, as we had never drunk it before

We had promised ourselves not to visit Tuscany during the project (a beautiful region but a bit too famous for our readers), unless we found a vineyard against the current of the appellation.

We did it. Welcome to Podere San Cristoforo estate. This biodynamic certified vineyard has 45 hectares in total. Fifteen are planted with vineyards, two with olive trees and twenty with cereals. Created in 1999, the estate is led by Lorenzo Zonin (owner and oenologist), Davide Elisei (director and agronomist) and Alessandro Dalle Carbonare (oenologist). The trio produces wines that are the opposite of other local wines.

The secret of this vineyard? An exceptional terroir. The constant presence of marine breezes that keep the grapes in a perfectly healthy state and mitigate the high summer temperatures, combined with soils of Aeolian sediments (stony soils rich in clay).

“A microclimate that gives a balsamic perception in wines,” Alessandro explained. Result : wines as precise and generous as they are fresh and complex. Pure happiness … Sangiovese, Petit Verdot (a dream terroir for this variety), Syrah, Vermentino and Trebbiano.

Cinque Terre, a paradise for the senses

Cinque Terre, in the north of Italy (midway between Florence and Turin), is simply a work of art… A wild, lost and preserved place, where I would dream to come and stop by one day, to write a book or two.

A wine region as beautiful as it is fascinating, entirely shaped by the hand of man in the Middle Ages, planting vines on terraces. Forget about machines! Here, everything is done by hand. Only a few monorails were recently installed here and there, to transport the heavy equipment, as well as the grapes during the harvest. Or to carry a curious explorer on occasion!

Discovering the (micro) estate Azienda Agricola Andrea Pecunia, a vineyard of 0.5 hectares with 3,000 vines spread over 24 small terraces!…

The work of a titan, for a production of up to 1,800 bottles per year. Simply amazing. We loved Andrea Pecunia wines, 100% natural, with a special mention for its blend of Bosco and Albarolla. Respect to this viticulture of the extreme.

Silvio Morando, the art of vinifying Grignolino

We wanted you to discover a fantastic winemaker (and friend) from Piedmont : Silvio Morando. A winemaker with a big heart, kneaded with talent, with a strong temperament, who does not have his tongue in his pocket and who likes to call himself “the anarchist”.

So many reasons why we love him so much! In addition to producing some of the best Barbera del Monferrato wines in the area, Silvio likes to play off the beaten path of Piedmont wines. For example, by blending a white grape (Cortese) and a red one (Syrah) to make a rosé. Or, by having many international red grapes in one of his cuvées (a heresy in Piedmont, where traditionally a wine comes from a single grape variety). I just love it.

Best of all, Silvio specializes in Grignolino del Monferrato, named after an appellation and an Italian red grape from Piedmont.

Characterized by aromas of small red berries, a nice acidity and sustained tannins, this grape variety produces delicious and very refreshing wines. We were in full harvest and clusters were beautiful. At lunchtime, Silvio served us a Grignolino del Monferrato at cold temperature. “That’s the way to drink this wine”, he explained. A pure delight with local antipasti, or a pepper pizza!

WineExplorers’cheers, JBA

  Thank you to Su’entu, Cantina del Vesuvio, Muscari Tomajoli, Podere San Cristoforo, Azienda Agricola Andrea Pecunia and Azienda Agricola Silvio Morando for their warm welcome. And a big thank you to Stephano and Imma Flores for this incredible moment in Sardinia.

  (1) In 2015, Italy became the world’s leading producer of wine, ahead of France, with 5.09 billion liters (source: OIV, 2017).

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[m0rgansux]

1. Where are you from? NC, unfortunately 

2. Where do you live and for how long? I’ve lived here my whole life... unfortunately  

3. What’s your favorite thing about where you live? we get all 4 seasons

4. What did you love the most about the town you grew up in? idk I think the weather again

5. Do you have any pets? 12 inside cats, 2 outside cats, 1 turtle

6. What was your 1st pet’s name? we had 3 dogs and 2 cats when I was born: Max, Phil, Lil, India, and Asia

7. What’s your favorite season? Winter

8. What’s your favorite movie? Love Actually, Rent, 13 Going on 30, Dirty Dancing, Pretty Woman, the Chucky movies, the Final Destination movies

9. Favorite movie in the past 5 years? uh idk but the girl before me said Short Term 12 and that was really good so sure let’s go with that go watch it it’s on netflix

10. What’s a movie that you laughed the hardest during? Honestly Meet the Fockers bc I watched it with my mom and she was cracking up at it

11. What’s a movie you cried the hardest during? Rent probably

12. What’s the best-animated movie ever created? geez idk man but I like Tangled

13. Favorite TV show? Criminal Minds or New Girl

14. Favorite TV show that is currently on? Criminal Minds or New Girl :)

15. What’s your favorite restaurant? there’s a restaurant in my town called Blue Asia idk if it’s a chain or not  

16. What’s your favorite food? I like nigiri and avocados

17. Least favorite food? sauerkraut 

18. What toppings do you get on your pizza? I like cheese and banana peppers

19. Favorite beverage? black iced tea

20. Favorite dessert? cheesecake

21. Is there a dessert you don’t like? I don’t like cake

22. Cake or pie? Pie

23. What’s your favorite ice cream? peanut butter cup, oreo, or sorbet 

24. What’s your favorite condiment? honey mustard or blue cheese dressing OR MAYONNAISE 

25. What do you get for brunch? usually just whatever I would get for breakfast 

26. It’s 4 am on a Saturday night, what do you eat? NACHOS

27. What one thing do you have in your fridge at any given time? tea

28. Weirdest thing you’ve ever eaten? I think I ate shark once

29. What’s your favorite band? Twenty One Pilots right now

30. Favorite solo artist? I like Sky Ferreira right now

31. Favorite nonliving musician? Amy Winehouse

32. Favorite lyrics? For all the air that's in your lungs For all the joy that is to come

33. Favorite song of all time? idk about all time but some songs I’ve liked for a long time are Hey Jealousy - Gin Blossoms Tonight, Tonight - The Smashing Pumpkins 

34. Favorite album? Vessels - Twenty One Pilots

35. What’s the last song you listened to? Hold Back the River - James Bay

36. If you life were a song what would the title be? Goddamn It (I Fucked Up)

37. What song would you probably be caught dancing alone to? Stitches by Shawn Mendes fuck off

38. If you could sing a duet with somebody who would it be? Borns maybe he would fall in love with me

39. If you could master one instrument what would it be? Guitar

40. What is your go-to karaoke song? I’ve never done karaoke 

41. What book are you currently reading or the last book you read? I’m reading a book called I’m Judging You but I can’t remember the author and I’m too lazy to go get the book or google it 

42. What’s a book that you plan on reading? I have a shelf-full of unread books 

43. What’s a book that you read because everyone else was reading it? Twilight and The Hunger Games

44. What’s a book that you read in school that positively shaped you? Wuthering Heights

45. What’s a book in school that you hated? The Great Gatsby

46. What’s your favorite book? It’s Kind of a Funny Story

47. What’s a book you wish you had written? The Cat in the Hat do u know how rich I would be 

48. Dark chocolate or milk chocolate? dark

49. Underwater or Outer space? NEITHER THOSE ARE BOTH TERRIFYING

50. Dogs or cats? cats

51. Kittens or Puppies? BOTH FUCK U 

52. Dolphins or Koalas? koalas ??

53. Bird watching or whale watching? birds 

54. What is your spirit animal? probably a cat

55. To be or not to be? 2 eat ass or not 2 eat ass

56. IPhone or Android? iPhone

57. Twitter or Instagram? twitter

58. Vine or snapchat? well vine is dead but snapchat 

59. Who should everyone be following right now? ME

60. What’s your favorite app? Website? I like snapchat and youtube

61. What was your favorite subject in school? Math and art

62. What was your best subject in school? Math

63. What was your worst subject in school? History I still don’t understand basic history 

64. What subject would you teach in school? How To Be a Piece of Shit 101

65. What is one thing you wish you knew in high school? these people don’t matter

66. What advice would you give yourself at 13? I just wrote something really dark and had to delete it

67. How tall are you? 5′9′’ ish

68. Who is your fashion icon? idk I look at Maddi Bragg and Rachel Whitehurst on instagram they’re youtubers

69. What’s you favorite fashion trend? oversized shirts w leggings 

70. What are 3 things you always have in your bag (besides phone and wallet)? lipbalm, headphones, gum 

71. What is a current trend you hope doesn’t exist in 100 hundred years? BEIN RACIST 

72. What’s your must have fashion accessory? 90′s choker 

73. Heels or flats? heels

74. Diamonds or pearls? diamonds

75. Blow-dry or air-dry? air dry

76. What color dress did you wear to prom? it was red and ugly af

77. Favorite cocktail? I haven’t ever had one I liked

78. What do you usually order at Starbucks? black tea w sweetener 

79. Coffee or tea? tea

80. How do you like your coffee? a spoonful of sugar and a shit ton of milk

81. Who is a person you want to have coffee with? Billie Lourd

82. What historical figure do you want to have coffee with? JACK THE RIPPER

83. If you could live in any historical decade, what would it be and where? 60s or 70s I would be high 25/8

84. What’s your favorite country to visit? I haven’t been to another country but Canada or Australia would b nice

85. What’s the last country you visited? -

86. What’s a country you wish to visit? well I just answered that

87. What’s your favorite state to visit? New York

88. What’s the last state you visited? probably New York

89. What’s a state you wish to visit? Colorado I would be high 26/9

90. What’s the best vacation spot? New York or California 

91. Where does one go on a perfect road trip? somewhere with lots of interesting stops along the way

92. Favorite city? NYC

93. Pilates or yoga? Yoga

94. Jogging or swimming? jogging only because I can’t swim

95. Favorite way to workout? yoga

96. Least favorite way to workout? any other method

97. Best way to decompress? lay in bed with cats

98. What’s the best first date idea? I have no idea

99. What’s love? WHAT IS LOVE BABY DON’T HURT ME

100. Major turn on? I like shy guys

*OKAY I’M STOPPING HERE AND I WILL DO THE OTHER HALF OF THIS SURVEY IN A SECOND POST BECAUSE IT’S SO LONG

#random #survey #random survey #queue