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#bijia
spectercrums · 5 months
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Sketches of Mengben focused on a more detailed style!
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ℑ𝔫 𝔱𝔥𝔢 𝔰𝔭𝔞𝔯𝔰𝔢 𝔰𝔥𝔞𝔡𝔬𝔴 𝔬𝔣 𝔞𝔭𝔯𝔦𝔠𝔬𝔱 𝔣𝔩𝔬𝔴𝔢𝔯𝔰 𝔟𝔶 𝒞𝒽𝓊𝓃𝑔 𝐿𝒾𝓃𝑔 𝒦𝑒𝑒 𝐻𝒶𝓃𝒻𝓊
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ziseviolet · 1 year
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Hello, I would like to communicate that it would be better if you change "modernized hanfu" into "hanfu theme modern dresses" because most of those dresses are actually Western dresses with classical Chinese element woven into their designs.
Hi, thanks for the question, and sorry for taking ages to reply!
I actually don't use the term "modernized hanfu" anymore, as it tends to imply that "traditional" hanfu isn't compatible with modern living, and/or equate modernity with Westernization, neither of which I agree with.
Instead of the loaded term "modernized hanfu" with its problematic implications, here are the two terms I do use:
1) Modified hanfu/改良汉服 (gailiang hanfu) - "gailiang/改良" is defined as "improved" or "reformed", but I don't like how these words imply that "traditional" hanfu is somehow inferior to hanfu that's been altered, so I use the neutral word "modified" instead as its English equivalent. I use the term "modified hanfu" to describe garments that are mostly constructed using traditional methods, but may have non-traditional alterations, including: shortened hems, non-traditional materials (e.g. lace, denim, leather), non-traditional parts (e.g. pockets, buttons, zippers, elastic, ruffles, bows), etc.
For example, below is a modified hanfu outfit from Yuan Shan Qiao/远山乔. At first glance it might not look like hanfu, but this is actually a Ming dynasty-style outfit comprised of a standing-collar short shan, square-collar bijia, and shortened mamianqun. Whimsical lace accents and accessories complete the "Alice in Wonderland" vibe:
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2) Hanyuansu/汉元素 - "han/汉" is short for "hanfu", and "yuansu/元素" means "element(s)". Thus, "hanyuansu" is a term that refers to clothing with elements of hanfu. I also like to think of it as "hanfu-inspired" clothing. I use the term "hanyuansu" to describe garments that incorporate elements of hanfu (e.g. patterns, motifs, embroidery, etc.) but are constructed using non-traditional shapes and methods. "Hanyuansu" can be used to describe what anon's referring to in their message - Western dresses with classical Chinese element woven into their designs.
For example, below is a hanyuansu outfit from Chuan Dai/川黛. At first glance, it looks like a regular two-piece ruqun/shanqun with modified sleeves. However, this is actually a one-piece dress, with the top and skirt sections sewn together. As such, this is not hanfu, but rather hanyuansu made to resemble hanfu:
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With that being said, the distinction between "modified hanfu" and "hanyuansu" isn't always clear-cut, and there is often a lot of overlap between them. Therefore, the two terms are used interchangeably in many cases.
There are more examples in my modified hanfu and hanyuansu tags. Bonus: I also have a post with recs for modified hanfu/hanyuansu shops here.
Hope this helps!
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thefourthhexgirl · 2 years
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Bijia
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A long sleeveless jacket of Mongol origins which has opened side slits. The bijia started to be worn in the Yuan dynasty and become one of the most typical form of women’s clothing in the Ming and Qing dynasty.
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uhohitsdorian · 2 years
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New Piper design!!! They’re in a Treasure Planet-inspired setting and in a whole new class configuration! This should be interesting!
Had to give them the Jim Hawkins haircut… mostly because I also have it, but what better place to pay such stylish tribute? I’ve wanted to be Jim since 2002, the amount of gender euphoria streaming off that boy has never wavered.
And, I ended up taking up a new hobby from them! I spin oxbow meteor now!
[Image: a digital drawing of my sorcerer/warlock, Piper. They are a young teen with very shiny copper hair that is fluffy on top and pulled into a tiny braid at the nape, ambiguously human save for the slight downward point of their ears. They have light golden skin covered in freckles of various sizes and a mischievous smile, and they stand confidently brandishing a double-ended rope dart (a weapon comprised of a long, red rope with a shiny copper weight at either end). They are wearing loose, green trousers cuffed at the ankle and tied with a twisted red belt, a nondescript black undershirt (hezi), a dark teal jacket with wide, loose sleeves (banbi), a lighter teal sleeveless jacket with an orange parallel collar (bijia), and no shoes. All the teal and green fabrics have faint patterns, floral or geometric. They have a mischievous expression with a closed, cat-like smile. To the side there is this text, bullet-pointed with tiny gears: “Piper Copperchild • 8 14 14 12 10 17 • Clockwork Soul • Hexblade • Beloved by the Patina • Fourteen years old • Sorcerer who hits things, for some reason”. The word “Patina” is fainter and glitching slightly. Beneath that is a headshot of them in profile with a demure expression, in a slightly less simplified style, where the undercut of their hair becomes visible, darker where it’s shaved short, and matching their eyebrows. They have rounded features and dark, soulful eyes. The background is of the whole image is teal with rusty brown splotches and a faint grid, with their head framed stylistically by a fourteen-petaled-and-houred clock. End ID.]
(Also… backstory design and some notes under the cut…)
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I wanted their current design to look like it could have been salvaged from the remains of its predecessor (though I don’t really know how their clothes could have survived what they would have been through… shhh, magic)! They’ve cut themself a new name in a similar fashion, just by hacking off the damaged (and damaging) and constricting pieces of it that never suited them. Their new outfit is far more practical for their activities and their personality, as out of the enclave of the cult they don’t have to conform their behaviour, but they are still in all the same colours, as they still carry with them its beliefs. As they grow and learn and eventually embrace becoming who they want to be rather than the person everyone else has always wanted them to be, they will begin to wear their own colours (which I already have a palette for that I love. Piper belongs in sunny oranges and yellows).
[Image: the same as above, but with a few changes, chiefly to Piper’s appearance: their hair is longer and pulled into a topknot with a golden ornament (xiaoguan), with a long, irregularly curly strand left loose on either side of their face. Their outfit is comprised of most of the same fabrics: a pleated, light teal, ankle-length skirt, with a yellow waistband over the chest that’s belted with a long, red ribbon (qixiong ruqun), over an orange sleeveless jacket with a familiar collar (bijia), which itself is over a dark teal robe with long, wide sleeves (daxiushan), and a nondescript brown robe beneath. Their name over in the text on the side is “Piety in Perseverance”. The background is devoid of the rust splotches. End ID.]
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yugiri315 · 27 days
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LWJ Cosplay Log - Master Post
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Making Lan Wangji
(AKA My Lan Zhan Cosplay Log)
This went from a historical project to cosplaying all the Hanguang-Jun, Lan Wangji in existence!  The main concept is Lan Wangji’s (LWJ) novel/manhua/audio drama design.  As the project started pre-pandemic, I didn’t consider the butler or dragon au in the design.  That would be too much.  There is a dash of videogame in him since there were some details I liked in that model.  If the title is “Mo Dao Zu Shi” then I have incorporated Lan Wangji’s description and concept arts into my design.  
Lan Wangji as known in The Untamed was generally avoided save for a tiny nod to the show’s Gusu Lan Clan.  “Mo Dao Zu Shi” Wangji and “Untamed” Wangji are distinct in my opinion.  Neither is superior from the other, just different enough that I need to pick one interpretation to play with.  The actors of Untamed, especially Xiao Zhan, really claimed the characters as their own and portrayed them wonderfully.  Wang Yibo’s Wangji is his Wangji, I won’t interfere that.  If you want to see that interpretation of Lan Wangji, then go watch the show.  It already exists.
A few caveats before you dive in:
1)     I am not a seamstress or tailor so I don’t know all the proper sewing terminology in English or any other language 2)     Also, modern romanization of Chinese confuses the shit out of me, a native speaker, so apologies for any spelling mistakes.  The Yale Romanization made so much more sense but then China thought they understood the English alphabet better than native English speakers so here we are.  Do as the Romans do, I guess. 3)     I am not a historical costumer either so all my info come from conjecture and research 4)     I am not a Chinese historian but I like to think I know enough about my history and culture through osmosis and the hell-hole disguised as Chinese school to talk about it 5)     I am not trying to make an authentic historical costume, I’m trying to make an anachronistic fantasy costume. Historicity went out the window the minute LWJ and every adult character decided to have their hair down.  I did try to make a semi-historically accurate version?  Depended on the mood at time of construction. 6)     I suck at being Chinese apparently so that will be my safety net if everything fails horribly :P  
The Lan Zhan Cosplay Log Layer 1:  Undergarments! 中衣 Layer 2A:  Yichang 衣裳   Layer 2B:  Ruqun 襦裙 Layer 3:  Zhiju 直裾 Layer 4A:  Leatherwork Layer 4B:  Jade Bling Layer 5A:  Dachang 大氅 Layer 5B:  Bijia 比甲 Layer 0:  Hair, Props, “Cheating,” & Overall Stats
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Exhibit:  LWJ cosplay in action [1][2]
Citation
Patterning:  https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1Qb411j7z6?spm_id_from=333.905.b_72656c61746564.1
http://www.yeoh.com/index2.php?section=journal&g=691
https://cosplayqna.tumblr.com/image/38971971992
https://torguqin.wordpress.com/hanfu/hanfu-tutorial-list/
Hanfu Resources:
@ziseviolet:  https://ziseviolet.tumblr.com/about
@fouryearsofshades:  https://fouryearsofshades.tumblr.com/post/179249195707/hello-do-you-happen-to-have-a-master-post-of-all
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gabriel-d-artemius · 1 year
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Hanfu related clothes I've made in the past 8 months
Hello!!! It's been a while, hasn't it? I'd like to preface this post by saying that I'm a slow maker and a procrastinator and so, I've only managed to make 4 articles of clothing in the last 8 months. I've bought fabric for some more but my brain looks at them and goes "uh, another time" and so, it's been left for later.
For those of you who saw my first post but not the second: my patterns arrived!! I got them from this wonderful shop in taobao and they've made my day. I've only so far used two patterns and I've had to cut them all out first, which, given I bought 9, it was a lot of work. So I only started to use them later in the last 3 months or so.
The first thing I made after april was a short, sleeveless beizi. It could also maybe be called a parallel collar banbi? As I make modified clothing as the mood strikes me, please take with a grain of salt all the names I use to refer to what I make, if someone in the comments corrects me, please do listen to them! Now, I got some stripy transparent viscose (rayon in some places) for cheap, which was why I made this. It needed its own pattern that I had to make myself, as at that moment in time I still hadn't received the ones I ordered so if anyone wants it, do tell me, I'll send it to you. It's very cute and comfortable and you'll see I french-seamed it. I discovered, in the process of making the previous banbi, that I absolutely hate sergers. So this is how I've made all my clothes since. I also had to finish the edges by had, as the fabric was very delicate and couldn't withstand the force of the sewing machine. But it came out very nice and airy and it's quite comfortable. I'm going to modify its pattern later to make a bijia, as I don't have a pattern for it, and I think it'll work nicely.
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The next thing I made was still without a pattern and it was... challenging. I wanted to do kind of a banbi to use as a top in summer. I made it myself and then used a cross collared shirt I had as comparison, to see if it made sense. As I wanted a wider design on the collar, as in more open, I could only do so much with it. I had to modify it a little bit after I thought it done but it came out nicely. The only thing I'm not really happy with is the collar, as I wanted to make it with two fabrics, but I didn't want the one complimenting the main one to be "inside" as I've seen in many pieces similar to this one. I don't know how that is made and I certainly don't know how it should be made in this position so I just, rolled with it. I think I will unpick it in the future and make it another way, I don't like how it falls against the fabric, it kinda becomes taught and bunches, even if from afar one can't see it. If anyone has any idea how to make this better, please do hit me up xD Currently it's sandwitched between the collar and the body, kinda like a second collar, but because it falls to the other side it gets warped. Also, I wanted to do this in a nicer fabric but I was aware enough to try it with this one first, which was cheaper, in case something went wrong xD The other one is already cut and is only waiting on me thinking how to make the collar better. I made this with the beizi in mind so there's a picture with the two of them. Below another with the beizi and the nice fabric (it has fishies!!!).
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Look at my happy face :DDD
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Finally, the next thing I made using the pattern I got from the shop, and I made some pants!!! I had to adapt the pattern a bit, because it was for long pants and I wanted shorts for summer (and the fabric I had wasn't enough to make long pants, so shorts it was). I had to raise the crotch some, because the cut I made fell just at that line and it would have become a skirt (as you'll see in the first photo, the second is of the modified crotch) but the rest I made according to the pattern. I do have the slight suspicion though, that either I read the instructions wrongly or they were wrong because it came out very tight and I didn't see an opening anywhere but the waistband so I have to check on that (I added an opening on the side and put in a zipper). I also wanted to use a different fabric that I purchased just for this but I got very afraid of fucking it up so I got another fabric that I had destined for something else and used it as a trial. It did come out quite nicely, though I know I'll be making a couple of changes to the other one, that has already been cut and is waiting for the perfect moment.
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I think you're getting my color palete from this, no? xD
And the last thing I finished last week and I also used one of the patterns I bought, the one for a shan, more specifically, and is the one that so far I love the most. I made it as a jacket with a cotton flannel I bought specifically for it and that I had my eye on for half a year and it's beauful. I love it. It's so soft, it's my favorite thing. They say cotton is cold and it sure doesn't give me much warmth outside but at some point I might give it a lining in linen, which is a termo-regulator fabric, and so that'll hopefully fix the issue. Right now it seems there's no linen in the stores because people don't think of linen as a winter fabric here, which it absolutely can be, so I'm pondering whether to wait until they stock it again or buy it in another country and have it delivered. Whichever's cheaper I guess. I'm just sad I forgot to add pockets ;__; (And I'm certainly not going to unpick it to add them now).
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Do forgive my posing prowess, as it is nonexistent. To this one I added an interlining for the collar to stiffen it, as that's something I noticed I should have done with the previous jacket. Jacket I'm currently unpicking to fix it once and for all :D This one was also french-seamed and let me tell you, my sewing machine did NOT like that at all. I'll have to plan for it in future projects xD I am thinking of adding a belt to this one, as I think it would make the sihouette better when it's closed, but we'll see.
I want to make more pants in the future, as it's getting quite cold over here, so i have that to plan for, but for now I have a couple of short pieces I have to sew before the weekend so that will have to wait. Maybe I'll post something over here asking for help, because there's some pants I don't even know how to name or how to look for them xD
So see you when I make more things!!
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darkeningclouds · 1 year
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China Masterlist 🏮
Umbrella Terms
Huafu (any clothing originating in China)
Hanfu (Han-Chinese ethnic clothing)
Hanyuansu (western clothing inspired by hanfu)
Modified Hanfu
Wedding Hanfu
Winter Hanfu
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General Hanfu Terms
Men’s Hanfu
Mianfu (emperor’s clothes)
Dachang (male equivalent of a pifeng)
Yichang 
Yuanlingpao
Qiyao Ruqun (Parallel Collar) (Crossed Collar)
Moxiong (undergarment for women)
Shan
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Han Dynasty + Wei/Jin Dynasties
Quju
Danyi (sheer coat for shenyi)
Shenyi
Zhiju
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Tang Dynasty
Daxiushan (lit. big sleeved shirt)
Banbi (Tang Dynasty beizi)
Banxiu 
Tanling (U-collared shirt)
Qixiong Ruqun (chest-high ruqun)
Yaoqun
Heiziqun
Hezi
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Song Dynasty
Beizi (narrow-sleeved coat with slits on the side)
Beixin (sleeveless version of the beizi)
Moxiu (similar to a shan but the sleeves are wider and shorter)
Lanshan
Xiapei
Baidiequn
Song-style Pants
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Ming Dynasty
Pifeng (big sleeved coat)
Bijia (sleeveless version of a pifeng)
Zhaojia (male equivalent of a bijia)
Changshan
Zhuyao
Mamianqun (horse-faced skirt)
Aoqun
Zhiduo
Daopao
Tieli (pleats go around the skirt)
Yesa (no pleats at the front of the skirt)
Fengguan (phoenix crown)
Yunjian (shoulder accessory)
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Qing Dynasty
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Republican Era/Minguo
Qipao/Cheongsam
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Footwear
Zaoxue
Chixi
Fangxi
Qitoulv
Qiaotoulv
Yuntoujinlv
Tang-Style Astana Cemetery Raised Head Shoes
Tang-Style Astana Cemetery Shoes
Fanglv
Gongxie
Dengyunlv
Yunwa (socks)
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Makeup
Pearl Makeup
Huadian (forehead)
Xiehong (side of face)
Mianye (dimples)
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Musical Instruments
Guzheng
Pipa
Yueqin
Guqin
Dizi
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Other Clothing Tags
Qi Lolita
Qungua
Xiuhefu
Xiyu
~~
Other Tags
Chinese Opera
Beijing Opera
C-Drama
Guzhuang
Gufeng
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daohanfu · 2 years
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🌈 After collecting bits of rainbow in the past 2.5 years, once again, it's time to sort the wardrobe, and toss the colours towards the clouds of nightfall. 过去两年里, 基本上把目前能找到的彩虹元素汉服款式、配饰都搜了个遍。时逢六月,春辞夏至,是时候让衣橱里存放的虹光再次照明重云与幕色。
This contemporary, full hanfu attire is based on the Mid-Late Ming style⁠. The main layers are outlined below: 衣冠裝束主要參照中晚明風:
+ Daopao: a type of Ming-styled long robe with crossing straight collars and slits at both sides. In contrast to other types of crossed-collar robes, the daopao has a hidden panel/curtain inside each slit, which creates the illusion of an interior, second layer. + 道袍: 此處非字面意思,而是指一種特定的明制漢服形制。道袍基本結構與直裰、宋制交領長衫相似, 但其在衣身兩側開衩處, 內接暗擺。如照片中的道袍, 內擺是直接縫在後衣襟上的,從側面看像是藏在開衩處內側的“門簾”。
+ Beixin / Bijia: an unisex, sleeveless jacket usually worn as the outermost add-on. ⁠This particular variation has a straight collar with parallel fronts.⁠ + 直領背心(比甲)⁠
+ A Ming-styled hairnet with an osmanthus zanhua ornament⁠. + 網巾、簪桂花⁠(纏花)
https://www.instagram.com/p/Ce9tz0sJC36/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=
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camcoshop · 11 months
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The 12x25 Compact Binocular Review
Though some reviews regarding compact binoculars make questionable claims about them online, these models should still be given serious consideration if lightweight grab-and-go binoculars are necessary.
As their small lens diameter does not allow for an increased exit pupil, these lenses are not recommended for use during the night or twilight observations.
Optical Performance
Ocular lenses and prism are fully multi-coated to absorb as much light as possible for brighter images, further improving optical performance. Porro prisms rather than roof prisms also aid this compact binocular's optical performance.
Even so, they still feature an extremely small exit pupil of 2.1mm at 12x25 magnification; therefore they should not be used in environments with very low light conditions.
These pocket binoculars also exhibit some noticeable chromatic aberration at contrasted edges, though this is a fairly typical issue with pocket binoculars - especially ones designed to be lightweight and compact. Most users will likely not consider it an issue, however; the rubber eyecups can even be adjusted downward to better accommodate glasses-wearers if you plan on occasionally using these binoculars.
Waterproof
Bijia binoculars offer an affordable alternative for beginners or casual observers looking to observe wildlife, nature, and scenery at leisure. Unfortunately, they're not suitable for use in low light conditions due to not featuring large exit pupils like more expensive binoculars; thus limiting their night vision abilities.
Combat Binoculars offer adjustable eye relief to allow wearers of glasses to see the entire field of view, with short eyepieces that can be reduced by rolling down rubber eyecups. Furthermore, it is important to check which type of prisms are being used; either crown glass or BaK4 prisms tend to offer higher optical performance than lower-quality models.
These packages include a soft case that protects the instrument from impact damage. This case features a padded sleeve to cushion any knocks and an easy access velcro fastened flap with belt loop, plus a cleaning cloth and neck strap - for your peace of mind.
Fogproof
The Bushnell Diamondback binoculars are an excellent option for anyone who desires a rugged yet lightweight pair of binoculars that can withstand all weather conditions. Equipped with their signature focusing system - simple yet effective at not freezing up under low temperature conditions - it makes these ideal for hunting, birding, astronomy and many other outdoor activities.
The lenses are filled with nitrogen gas to prevent them from fogging up, while an anti-reflective coating helps improve light transmission and clarity. Rubber eyecups can be adjusted either down or twisted down to shorten for those wearing glasses, and the field of view spec is an essential factor when purchasing binoculars.
Magnification and lens size make this binocular suitable for most situations; however, its small exit pupil might be problematic in low light situations where natural hand tremors or breathing may blur images; 10x magnification may be more suitable in these instances.
Comfortable
Compact binoculars distinguish themselves by their diminutive size and lightweight; this can be accomplished by using smaller front lenses (the second number in their name). Being lightweight also enables easier usage when out and about and in spaces where larger instruments would not be feasible or suitable.
As part of your backpacking travel adventure or when hiking, canoeing, attending sporting events and visiting museums/galleries/art exhibits where a large pair of binoculars would prove cumbersome and cumbersome, it can be wise to carry compact binoculars that will not add unnecessary bulk.
These compact binoculars feature adjustable eyecups to provide optimal viewing comfort for people wearing glasses, while their large eye relief and rising eye cups also enable those without glasses to get closer views of the lens. Plus, these comfortable compacts boast soft rubber-coated texture grips on their durable plastic chassis for an easy holding experience.
Motti Slodowitz is the Founder of Campco and also works as the President & Chief Executive Officer at Campco. He is currently based in Los Angeles, United States.
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spectercrums · 3 months
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Mengben design for 2024!
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𝐻𝒾𝒷𝒾𝓈𝒸𝓊𝓈 𝑔𝓇𝒾𝓃 𝓈𝑒𝓇𝒾𝑒𝓈 by 燕云织造局
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fouryearsofshades · 2 years
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lace bijia by 衿娥传统服饰 
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fortressofserenity · 11 months
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Clothing philosophy
(I remember reading somewhere that traditional Chinese clothing tends to be two-dimensional or to put it plainly, loose-fitting and baggy per Taoist requirements. Comes to think of it, the blouses that I make fit the 2D part though independent of Taoism and based on the fact that some of the previous clothes I made didn’t fit so so I make them loose-fitting instead.
I have yet to do more form-fitting clothing, but it’s pretty easy for me to do loose-fitting clothing. I guess that’s because I don’t really care much about whether if it literally fits bodily proportions, for as long as they’re loose and baggy. Though admittedly, I did heed to criticism and tried making a blouse that didn’t have narrow shoulders. The best to my own abilities I guess since it’s done with a sleeveless blouse as a pattern.
But since I’m making a bijia (still figuring how to cut the middle), the Taoist philosophy of wearing loose-fitting modest clothing fits me pretty well.
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superfangkai · 1 year
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View from the peak. (at 笔架山公园 Bijia Hill Park) https://www.instagram.com/p/CmlElj3P3mr/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=
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alexabadigear · 1 year
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BIJIA Hunting Laser Rangefinder-6X 650/1200Yards  
The BIJIA Hunting Laser Rangefinder is multifunction laser rangefinder for hunting The first compliment is on the optics, very clear! Better than expected! Second is ease of use. Read the instructions once, try it, and you’re done. Now, let’s talk about my concerns. First is the plastic housing of the unit. It’s not as durable as I hoped. I feel like it would crack by dropping it. The eyepiece unit is great though; and I can’t really say how durable the unit is; it’s just My guess. 
Wanna read more, Click here.
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