woah WOAH hey what is THAT??
A STICKER CLUB?? (This takes you to it wink wink)
YES. I have decided to shuffle things around.... and my Wyrm tier is now a Hoard tier!! Meaning every month you can get JUST a sticker, and every quarter you get a BONUS STICKER 🌟
New members also get a free skink sticker!
Not only THAT but my existing hoard tiers- Wyvern, Hydra, and Leviathan have been UPGRADED.
Now instead of a monthly postcard.... you get a monthly PRINT. 🌟
The difference? Much better quality, really nice stock, and Hydra and up tiers get TWO unique designs a month!
If you are new/rejoining, in your next mail-out you can find THIS lil guy creeping in your mailbox!
CHECK IT OUT >> patreon.com/peripendrake <<
THANKS FOR LOOKING
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Blue tongued Skink
Enclosure:
Hatchlings can be housed in 20 gallon tanks, but adults and juveniles need to be in a 36 x 18 x 18 inches or 40-60 gallon minimum with more floor space
Only house one per tank
There needs to be a warm side with a heating lamp and UVB (can live without UVB, but very beneficial), then a cool side
The basking side should be 90-100 degrees F and the cooler side should be 75-82 degrees F
Day and night cycle need to be present
Substrates can be newspapers, puppy pads, aspen bedding, cypress mulch, etc.
They do like to dig, so give them a few inches of substrate
There needs to be a feeding dish to make sure they don’t ingest substrate
They are awful at climbing and enjoy running space, but make sure at least one hide is in their home and maybe a rock or log to bask on
They need places to hide both in heat and in the cooler side
A shallow, clean water dish needs to be present at all times and water changed every day. Scrub once a week
40-60% humidity is ideal, but indonesian skinks prefer a bit higher
Spot clean daily, completely clean and disinfect once a month
Diet/Feeding habits:
Omnivorous and need variety
50% veggies, 40% proteins, and 10% fruits is ideal
Adults should be fed every 2-3 days and juveniles should eat every other day
Feed juveniles as much as they want in one sitting and adults just enough to fill their reasonably sized bowl
Sprinkle their food with calcium powder and vitamins every other meal for juveniles and every third feeding for adults
Don’t feed foods high in sodium, citrus, avocado, eggplant or rhubarb.
Proteins: Canned dog/cat food (cat food has more protein usually), dry dog/cat food that has been moistened, mealworms/superworms, hornworms, shrimp, boiled organ meats, canned snails, boiled chicken, hard boiled eggs, cooked ground turkey, cooked lean beef, and an occasional pinky mouse
Veggies: Dandelion greens, collard greens, turnip greens, mustard greens, squash, peas, brussel sprouts, carrots, and an occasional hibiscus flower
Fruits: Mango, blueberry, strawberry, raspberries, figs, papaya, and cantaloupe
Don’t feed corn-based products and canned foods with bones
Age identification:
They live about 15-20 years, but can live more
They reach maturity at 3 years old
Physical traits:
They have blue tongues that are sticky enough to eat insects
Their bodies are usually a light tan with darker brown stripes and chunky
Adult size is 18-24 inches
Hatchlings start at about 4 inches long
Terrestrial
Awful to climbing and swimming
Their tail can “drop” at any time
Their eggs hatch inside of them and they seem to have “live birth”
They have a clutch of about 10-15 babies a year
Personality:
They territorial easily
Very hardy
They are very picky on the enrichment in their environment and will move their enrichment around until they are pleased
Intelligent and curious
Docile and friendly
They evolved their blue tongue to scare predators
If they are stressed they will puff up, show their tongue, and hiss (also food behavior)
If they get stressed they can lose their tail
They need to be handled often or they get shy and flighty
They do not brumate and instead mate during all of winter and spring
Health Concerns:
Metabolic bone disease caused by lack of calcium and vitamins
Stuck shed can cause lack of circulation, fixed by higher humidity
They will sometimes overeat, so keep an eye on their weight
Handling:
Let them have a week to themselves before you start handling them
Make sure they have a few meals before handling
When first handling just limit it to about 10 minutes, then you can increase time
Support their entire body and hold over a surface in case they wiggle
They love being handled once comfortable with you and sometimes enjoy head/chin scratches
Wash hands before and after handling
Never handle as they are shedding as it stresses them out
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