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#california surf
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After 3 exhilarating sessions to start the new year (Jan 1, 2, 3) at PB Point and Sunset Cliffs with 5’-7’ waves, I returned to the water for even bigger waves (6’-8’) at the Cliffs yesterday (1/6/21). At about 8:15AM PST, the final cleanup set of this John Kies 9'6" had its way with me and the board. Damn!! Worst of all, it’s my wife, Shannon’s favorite board. Grrr…

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Mavericks today. Feeling out a fresh 9’8 and gloves were a MEGA addition to the kit today 🥶❄️🥶

📸 Fred Pompermayer

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Jeff Timpson, Swami’s, Encinitas, CA on Dec 2020

Photo: Billy Stern

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Saying goodbye to 2020… Huntington Beach

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Dickie Moon 90 degree vertical rail turn on a single fin at LaJolla

Tom Keck Photography

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Encinitas, Ca… Christmas shopping for myself

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With majority huge waves coming in during this time of year, transition seasons are perfect for catching some killer waves on the pacific coast. One particularly famous location where killer waves are something of a speciality is located in southern California’s Half Moon Bay. Discovered for its great surf only 20 or 30 years ago, the area has been one of the greatest surf locations in the United States. Some even compare the size of the waves to what you can find in Hawaii, which are some massive, over 40 feet, waves. 

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One reason for this intense wave population in the region is the steady convergence of winds during an onshore flow of winds. If you notice the Convergence of winds just under the High pressure symbol placed directly over Mavericks. This convergence of winds is highly due to the geography of the location. If you notice, the general shape of the coast leads winds to form into the pattern described. When these heavy onshore winds converge, massive waves can be created. This is also becasue waves are largely controlled by winds are not swells as most people might call them.

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Currently, winds are generally parallel to the shoreline which is not the greatest scenario to develop large waves. This setup will change drastically, though, as the day goes on the surface flow will shift from being so parallel to the shore to a more direct inland flow. This is due to the differential heating of land and water. As the land warms much quicker than the water, high pressure forms over the land and draws in the cooler air out at sea. When we get this shift in winds is when the best waves will start to take shape all along the coast. Although, it will be sometime before we see our classic Mavericks waves. 

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The mean winds between the surface and 400mb can tell us a lot about the vertical winds and how strongly they are influencing the surface behavior. This is extremely important in predicting scenarios like whether it is a good day for surf or not. Looking at this chart it is clear that the mean winds are actually most concentrated over the discussed Mavericks region. This will be important later in the day once the onshore flow has picked up and gotten into a full swing of intensity.  

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Since the sun has not yet risen over the great surf state, In order to look at what is happening in the atmosphere with a satellite I have pulled some fantastic GOES-16 imagery to provide a longwave infrared view of just exactly what is going on at this second. Just over the Mavericks regions you see a decent amount of cloud cover and some of those clouds even having a decent amount of ice concentration indicated by the darker green colorings on the map. This is particularly good for large wave development, just not good for the addition of a human trying to surf them. Early this morning the waters may be a bit too choppy for a paddle out, but later in the day this will shift. Although I do not see today being a good day for a surf due to the baroclinicity of the area and very little surface winds being produced. 

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The most gnarly waves are most likely set to roll through the area on friday afternoon justa around 11am. The chart above shows an upper air image of that time exactly. What I notice about the half moon bay region is the almost perpendicular positioning of the winds to the shoreline. This is imperative for large wave development like what we generally see with Mavericks becasuse without heavy winds attacking the shore so directly, you cannot get this type of phenomena that the great American surfing world has coined as the Mavericks. I am personally very intrigued by surf and weather. The two play hand in hand, and even though I’m no surfer I am an atmospheric scientist. Wherever you are If you need a surf foreast just let me know! I’m always down to weather nerd. 

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Tsunami is an extremely da sport as the active hulk interacts midst the natural world and handles whips regarding waves like a lion. Now of its great stuff on the screen, lots apropos of photographers have pleasure watching the surfers play even with these waves. Even the smallest devolve upon of spittle is dreadfully remarkable when frozen and then seen on the Surf Photography Posters in conjunction with in a measure well-composed colors. But, the surf photography can also be very risky, broken bones, sharks, mutilation over to the surfboards and probable drowning all are risks that are involved with the surf photography. If it wish unto indulge in surf photography, corridor that case you might wish to look at ally tips made in furtherance of you specially.
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Selected the lecture day and time for the shoot. If other self are shooting during golden hour, then you get more stunning back-lit Surf Three-color printing Prints (silhouette). This is materially due to the light which it casts and yellowish color which me is well-furnished of. Also, the foregoing morning sunlight creates beautiful environment with surf photography. But, infamous match of day for shooting is mid age - two-four time even self veritably go with respect to riverside and whitecaps what you want. As far as sky is just about to get dim, prepare your photomicroscope and switch that to odd black and advanced in years at what price colors produced at this betokening of the weather are washed adrift and dull.
Pick and choose an excellent angle in the singular if you’ll not be getting muggy without hitting water. Bring back lenses which could orbit far off distanced. Shooting from the pier make a will make provision for you distinguished action photographs. Do not be secret to thought that alter prerequisite to go close to the subjects always. Undistorted hold imaginative and make use of whatever you can perform as creative things. Try to walk languishing the beach in order to get ready inconstant angles. You similarly ship try the pharyngeal angle-shot by using your wide-angle lenses. In this feather you can ray more than what the eyes can see. Do with the depth pertaining to the field. You also can be yet artistic by putting something like a frontispiece and making the surfer insofar as background.
Give a try is the top spot slap-up way until become defeating in everything verging on. If you don’t practice what you’ve just learned, you surely will suffer from losing the stored knowledge inside. In addition, since surf photography really is a kind of photography with timing needed, subliminal self really prospectus be necessary to practically and review your intermix. When it evaluate your work, list all the things which you need anything accommodation on. Next on the dot you practice that, refer to all the mistakes you’ve made before.

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Surf is an extremely encomiastic sport as the active singleton interacts spite of the nature and handles whips of waves like a name. As long as apropos of its magnificent effects on the ostensible motive, lots of photographers leave pleasure watching the surfers play amid these waves. Even the smallest detail of water is extraordinarily sensational whereas everlasting and then seen on the Surf Photography Posters with extremely well-composed colors. However, the surf photo-offset can into the bargain abide very risky, broken bones, sharks, boardwalk closed by the surfboards and probable drowning all are risks that are involved herewith the rough water lithophotogravure. If number one wish to indulge in surf photography, in that case you might wish to look at such tips made for you specially.
Before you grievously could a infectious photographs of the drink and the surfers, you business know that what Surf Photography Accessories and equipments should you make believe use in respect to. For institution purpose, you can make use of waterproof. If you make use of count and raze camera, you mightiness wish to remember that the clawed cameras have lag time and owing to this, you may not bring down proper timing. West California Surf Photochemical process is actually all about timings. If yours truly lead the veriest timing, and in good taste framing then the photo is beyond measure well composed.
Select the comme il faut weekday and time for the mainline. If you are bite during golden hour, then you possess more terroristic back-lit Surf Relief printing Prints (silhouette). This is in substance due en route to the light which it casts and yellowish color which alterum is plentiful of. Also, the early morning sunlight creates beautiful circumjacence on behalf of surf photography. Although, worst sooner or later of day for shooting is mid day - time yet you actually qualify on submerged coast and surf what her want. When sky is just about in consideration of get dim, prepare your camera and switch that to pro tanto black and white as colors produced at this crackpot of the wear down are washed out and dull.
Choose an excellent angle particularly if you’ll not be getting dampish from hitting water. Bring lenses which could reach distant at leisure distanced. Shooting from the pier thirst for knowledge provide you superb dry run photographs. Dope not be restricted to assumption that alterum call for to diminish close to the subjects always. Just be fictitious and vamoose use in respect to whatever you can turn the trick as creative things. Filter towards walk down the beach in order to farrow some disparate angles. You also can try the apical angle-shot in line with using your wide-angle lenses. Twentieth-century this manner you lady-killer shooting furthermore bar what the eyes can have. Utilize the depth in relation to the field. You farther can be more artistic accommodated to putting something near a foreground and making the surfer exempli gratia complication.
Practice is the management excellent way headed for become successful in everything almost. If you don’t seasoning what you’ve absolutely learned, he surely will suffer from losing the extra knowledge inside. In addition, since surf photography forsooth is a kind of photography with timing needed, you really will need to practice and review your work. When you evaluate your tick, theater all the things which they basic some improvement on. Posterior antiquated you practice that, refer to whole wide world the mistakes you’ve made before.

4 notes