The Gourmet - Sylvie Overheul , 2013.
Dutch, b. 1968
Acrylic on canvas , 60 x 40 cm.
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Napoleon and Nicolas Appert: The invention of canned food
“Although he [Napoleon] continued so far as possible the Revolutionary practice of having armies live off the land, he also did his best to develop an efficient commissariat. A famous part of his supply system was canned food, particularly meat, for the army. Nicholas Appert had started the food-canning industry in 1804, building a factory that employed fifty people. His method prescribed putting the food in glass jars, which were next carefully stoppered, and then cooked in boiling water for lengths of time varying with the type of food. The navy first used the canned food, with great success even on extended cruises. In 1810 the Minister of the Interior awarded Appert 12,000 francs on condition he make his process public.”
— Robert B. Holtman, The Napoleonic Revolution
The inventor of canning, Appert, deposited samples of his invention to the imperial government in 1809, specifically to the Society for the Encouragement of National Industry [Société d'Encouragement pour l'Industrie Nationale].
He published his findings in 1810, titled: Le livre de tous les ménages ou l'art de conserver pendant plusieurs années toutes les substances animales et végétales [English tr: The Art of Preserving All Kinds of Animal and Vegetable Substances For Several Years]. It was “a work published by the order of the French Minister of the Interior, on the report of the Board of Arts and Manufactures”.
For his discovery, the government paid him 12,000 francs and gave him free lodgings and a workshop in the Hospice des Quinze-Vingts. Every prefecture in the French Empire was supplied with a copy of his book, and the prefects were assigned the responsibility of disseminating the information widely. Two more editions were created under the empire, and another in 1831.
His factories were ransacked and destroyed during the invasions of France in 1814 and again in 1815. He was able to rebuild and won several gold medals from the Society for the Encouragement of National Industry and eventually became a member of the Society.
Appert is quoted as saying “I sacrificed everything for humanity, all my life”.
Additional Sources:
English translation of Appert’s 1810 publication
Nicolas Appert inventeur et humaniste, Jean-Paul Barbier, 1994 (Fondation Napoléon)
Collection A. Carême: Le conservateur 1842 (archive.org)
Defining Culinary Authority: The Transformation of Cooking in France, 1650-1830 by Jennifer J. Davis
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crazy to think how for most of human history cans didn’t exist. Like they’re so ubiquitous as to be uninteresting now, but at one point we had jars and pots and root cellars and such but absolutely no shelf-stable metal cans. Take a moment to appreciate your cans today, they are so useful and handy.
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“Libby’s 100 Famous Foods” (1950)
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