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xtruss · 3 years

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IN THE GARDEN

Take a Walk in the Garden, Before It’s Too Late

Go out and look around. Your garden has things to tell you in the fall.

The bloodtwig dogwood (Cornus sanguinea Midwinter Fire) is among the first trees to color up each fall in David L. Culp’s Pennsylvania garden. Credit...Rob Cardillo

— By Margaret Roach | October 20, 2021 | The New York Times

For David L. Culp, the walk is a daily practice, not for its exercise value, but in pursuit of insight. The familiar route he has taken most days, over some 30 growing seasons, is around his two-acre garden in Downingtown, Pa., along the paths he created.

He walks the sloping site in search of ideas for possible refinements, bringing to life the opposite of what he calls a “big-bang garden,” the kind with just one riotous spring or summer moment.

Fall walks are especially precious, said Mr. Culp, a longtime garden designer, instructor and author. Try to catch the garden before its visual cues degrade, leaving us vulnerable to the tough combination of winter’s deprivation and that pile of tempting catalogs arriving at our low point.

Right now: Go out, look around and listen.

Fall garden walks are especially informative, said Mr. Culp, a longtime garden designer. He looks for opportunities to enrich various areas of his garden — perhaps by building around a dominant leaf color borrowed from the changing canopy trees, and then adding echoing perennials like Amsonia closer to ground level. Credit...Rob Cardillo

“Read your garden, and also let it speak to you,” advised Mr. Culp, who spent two decades teaching thousands of students at nearby Longwood Gardens, until pandemic restrictions intervened. He now teaches virtually, in popular monthly webinars sponsored by Garden Design magazine. (The next will be held on Nov. 11.)

Mr. Culp believes that the best design decisions result from responding to what the garden tells us, not from inventing some new feature to impose upon it or from impulse-buying.

So out he goes, notebook, pen and camera phone in hand, perhaps sporting his favorite “Born to Raise Hellebores” T-shirt, which reflects his horticultural humor and is one among many plant-collecting obsessions.

Some of what he jots down you might expect: a list of what didn’t go so well, or plants that didn’t make the grade, or an area he neglected that will require reworking. “Get that early spring planning on the radar now,” he said.

A color palette of blues and purples, with splashes of gold, more vivid than the pastel one from early spring, enlivens later spring borders at Mr. Culp’s 30-year-old garden. Credit...Rob Cardillo

Making Notes, Taking Names

Mr. Culp might notice a tall, fall-blooming aster or Joe Pye weed (Eutrochium purpureum) that flopped, reminding him that Sedum Autumn Joy or tall garden phlox (Phlox paniculata) had splayed open at their earlier bloom times, too. His note to self on pruning them: “Chelsea Chop.”

Plants so designated will be cut back by a third to a half late next May or early in June. (The technique’s name was coined because its timing coincides with the Royal Horticultural Society’s Chelsea Flower Show, in England.) This will delay bloom time slightly, but promote shorter, sturdier stems.

Also noted: Which plants really worked? “Plant more of those; you work with what worked,” he said. It’s an obvious takeaway, he acknowledged, but one that we often fail to act on if it isn’t duly recorded, and corresponding plant orders placed.

But most of what he looks for is subtler, requiring a practiced eye — opportunities to enrich the fall garden, for example, by building it around a dominant leaf color borrowed from the changing canopy trees. Adding Amsonia to the perennial layer, with its late-season yellow foliage, could provide a link to the changing color of the Princeton Sentry Ginkgo trees above, an all-male cultivar selected for its narrow, conical crowns and lack of nasty-smelling fruit.

Mr. Culp collects hellebores, snowdrops, Narcissus and other plants, along with disparate dwarf treasures that he has combined in an old sink, perched atop a vintage sewing-machine stand. Credit...Rob Cardillo

Layers Upon Layers Upon Layers

Mr. Culp’s quest for insights isn’t sated by basic observations — of the Rudbeckia Herbstsonne that fell over or the lusty Japanese anemone (Anemone tomentosa Robustissima) that’s hogging too much ground and needs reining in. His way of seeing is a layered one, and was the subject of his 2012 book, “The Layered Garden: Design Lessons for Year-Round Beauty From Brandywine Cottage.”

It’s not just the landscape’s canopy, shrub-zone and ground-covering layers that he takes in. He observes every plant’s color, texture and shape as distinct layers that can contribute to the success of a design.

Individual garden beds represent another layer in the larger composition. Time is a layer, too — although processing that could take some mental gymnastics. Peel back the current scene to recall moments gone by and imagine what is to come. As if to remind himself, and the rest of us, of all 365 days of potential, Mr. Culp published a follow-up book last year, “A Year at Brandywine Cottage: Six Seasons of Beauty, Bounty and Blooms.”

Clumps of Galanthus nivalis, the common snowdrop, push up every year through the last snow of late winter. Mr. Culp is happy companion to more than 200 named cultivars of snowdrops that bloom in fall, as winter fades or in earliest spring, extending the garden into otherwise quiet moments. Credit...Rob Cardillo

Consider a Collection (or Many)

“I used to have everything happen early in my garden,” Mr. Culp said. “But I gradually stretched it.”

One tactic for getting there satisfied another of his inclinations: the more-is-better drive to amass plant collections.

“If there is something that you love, do a little exploration of that genus,” he said, “and extend the bloom time of that favorite plant.”

The garden will be better for it, but caveat emptor: You may get hooked.

Now he has Narcissus galore, and no mere iris moment, but more than three months of moments, from the first little I. danfordiae blooming in late March to the I. ensata types that flower at the far end, in June.

Mr. Culp is also a galanthophile, happy companion to more than 200 named cultivars of snowdrops (Galanthus) that bloom in fall, late winter or very early spring. What began with a clump of the familiar giant snowdrop (G. elwesii) now includes a couple thousand of them naturalized in a meadow area, inspired by the way his homework on the genus revealed that they grow in the high mountains of their Balkan homeland. His passion has not cooled; another 700 await planting this fall.

“I’m just a man in love,” he said. A bonus of that romance: Snowdrops are deer-resistant, and his garden is not fenced.

Hellebores are a star of Mr. Culp’s late-winter garden. The strain he bred, the Brandywine Hybrids, include a range of colors. They were developed not just for their form, but also to emphasize garden vigor. Credit...Rob Cardillo

Start modestly, though, especially with bulbs. “A lot of times I try a small number of something new, and if it works in a test, then I’m down for 50,” he said. “Before I go steady, I have to know.”

Whatever the number, he lays out the bulbs in groups, with a few trailing off outside the main clump, to make it appear as if they have already started to naturalize themselves. (A same-but-different trick to simulate nature’s planting style with perennials like Joe Pye weed: Combine cultivars of various heights and colors within a border or meadow, he suggested, as if they had self-sowed and revealed their natural genetic variation.)

And then there are those hellebores, of which he has bred his own lineage, trademarked as the Brandywine Hybrids, emphasizing a range of colors, flower shapes and garden vigor. They provide evergreen ground cover until Mr. Culp starts cutting off the foliage in January and February, just before the new year’s flowers emerge.

Mr. Culp also has a collection of containers — 200 at last count — that he stages in various areas, little potted worlds within the garden. Could your place benefit from such charming vignettes (and should you maybe invest in some nice containers at current end-of-season garden-center sales)?

Vignettes of containers, artfully staged around Mr. Culp’s Pennsylvania landscape, create little gardens within the garden. Many are displayed in an area he calls the Ruin Garden, where Dalmatian bellflower (Campanula portenschlagiana) covers the walls in purple at bloom time. Credit...Rob Cardillo

There is not just craving but method to this garden designer’s acquisitiveness, as collections of any kind can bring coherence.

“You can collect not just more species and varieties of one genus,” he said, “but more of the layers that plants can bring — more of one color, one texture or a shape. All of those speak to the repetition that lends more unity to the garden.”

A collection of vertical elements creates the signature shape of his garden, which includes an acre of woodland. It was the trunks of all those trees that inspired Mr. Culp to add verticality on the lower and intermediate levels.

Inspired by the trunks of surrounding trees, Mr. Culp chose to emphasize vertical shapes in his garden. A picket fence, foxgloves and “strappy plants” like Phormium, seen outside the left corner of the fence, underscore the effect. Credit...Rob Cardillo

That verticality comes from a lot of what he calls “strappy plants” that he uses lavishly, including bear’s breeches (Acanthus), foxglove (Digitalis) and tall alliums, as well as non-hardy things like red-leaf Abyssinian banana (Ensete ventricosum).

“Even the foliage of a German iris is a vertical element,” he said, as are pots of tender Phormium. “You might not see it unless I pointed it out, but they’re there, providing repetition and excitement.”

Picking up on what the trees were saying, his choice for enclosing the Veg — a garden within the garden, of mostly edible things — was the decidedly vertical element of white picket fencing. Elsewhere there are exclamation points from ornamental staking, tuteurs supporting vines and pillars of climbing roses, all playing off what the garden told him.

“I even capped a broken tree and used it as a pillar to support a Schizophragma vine,” he said.

Repetition in various forms, including of a single plant, brings unity to a garden. The ribbons of blue wood forget-me-not (Myosotis sylvatica) at the bed edges tie Mr. Culp’s spring borders together. This biennial, which is inclined to sow around, needs a gardener’s firm hand. Credit...Rob Cardillo

A Winter Garden, One Small Moment at a Time

Decades in, Mr. Culp continues to move about the place he knows better than anywhere, one that somehow still manages to surprise him and keep nudging him forward. The walks are his ongoing education in design, with the garden as curriculum and instructor.

These fall days, he is seeking backdrops for moments-in-the-making for winter, a season too often overlooked. A stone wall could provide a foil for late-winter bulbs or hellebores; the patterned bark of a Stewartia trunk or the red-twig dogwood’s colorful, leafless stems are other opportunities he has discovered.

“Build from your strengths in wintertime,” he said. “Ask, ‘What’s my strongest element then?’ and build from that. As in every season, in every layer, flesh out the pictures.”

Margaret Roach is the creator of the website and podcast A Way to Garden, and a book of the same name.

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indefenseofplants · 7 years

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Plant Architecture and Its Evolutionary Implications

I make it a point that during my field season I enjoy my breakfast out on the deck. It is situated about halfway up the canopy of the surrounding forest and offers a unique perspective that is hard to come by elsewhere. Instead of looking up at the trees, I am situated in a way that allows for a better understanding of the overall structure of the forest. Its this perspective that generates a lot of different questions about what it takes to survive in a forested system, especially as it relates to sessile organisms like plants.

Quite possibly my favorite plants to observe from the deck are the pagoda dogwoods (Cornus alternifolia). As this common name suggests, this wonderful small tree takes on a pagoda-like growth form with its stacked, horizontal branching pattern. It is unmistakable against the backdrop of other small trees and shrubs in the mid canopy. The fact that it, as well as many other plant species, can be readily recognized and identified on shape alone will not be lost on most plant enthusiasts.

Even without the proper vocabulary to describe their forms, anyone with a keen search image understands there is a gestalt to most species and that there is more to this than simply fodder for dichotomous keys. The overall form of plants has garnered attention from a variety of fields. Such investigations involve fields of study like theoretical and quantitative biology to engineering and biomechanics. It has even been used to understand how life may evolve on other planets. It is a fascinating field of investigation and one worth a deeper look.

Some of the pioneering work on this subject started with two European botanists: Dr. Francis Hallé and Dr. Roelof Oldeman. Together they worked on conceptual models of tree architecture. Using a plethora of empirical studies on whether a tree branches or doesn't, where branches occurs, how shoots extend, how branches differentiate, and whether reproductive structures are terminal or lateral, they were able to reduce the total number of tree forms down to 23 basic architectural models (pictured above). Each model describes the overall pattern with which plants grow, branch, and produce reproductive structures. At the core of these models is the concept of reiteration or the repitition of form in repeatable sub-units. The models themselves were given neutral names that reflect the botanists that provided the groundwork necessary to understand them.

Despite the fact that these models are based on investigations of tropical tree species, they are largely applicable to all plant types whether they are woody or herbaceous and whether they occur in the temperate zone or in the tropics. The models themselves do not represent precise categories but rather points on a spectrum of architectural possibilities. Some plants may be intermediate between two forms or share features of more than one model. It should also be noted that most trees conform to a specific model for only a limited time period during their early years of development. After some time, random or stochastic events throughout a trees life greatly influence its overall structure. The authors are careful to point out that a trees crown is the result of all the deterministic, opportunistic, and chance events in its lifetime.

Despite these exceptions, the adherence of most plants to these 23 basic models is quite remarkable. Although many of the 23 models are only found in the tropics (likely an artifact of the higher number of species in the tropics than in the temperate zones), they provide accurate reference points for further study. For instance, the restriction of some growth forms to the tropics raises intriguing questions. What is it about tropical habitats that restricts models such as Nozeran's (represented by chocolate - Theobroma cacao) and Aubréville's (represented by the sea almond - Terminalia catappa) to these tropical environments? It likely has to do with the way in which lateral buds develop. In these models, buds develop without a dormancy stage, a characteristic that is not possible in the seasonal climates of the temperate zones.

Another interesting finding borne from these models is that there doesn't seem to be strong correlations between architecture and phylogeny. Although species within a specific genus often share similar architecture, there are often many exceptions. What's more, the same form can occur in unrelated species. For instance, Aubréville's model occurs in at least 19 different families. Similarly, the family Icacinaceae, which contains somewhere between 300 and 400 species, exhibits at least 7 of the different models. Alternatively, some families are architecturally quite simple. For instance the gymnosperms are considered architecturally poor, exhibiting only 4 of the different models. Even large families of flowering plants can be architecturally simplistic. The Fabaceae, for instance, are largely made up of plants exhibiting Troll's model.

So, at this point the question of what is governing these models becomes apparent. If most plants can be reduced to these growth forms at some point in their life then there must be some aspect of the physical world that has shaped their evolution through time. Additionally, how does plant architecture at the physical level scale up to the level of a forest? Questions such as this are fundamental to our understanding of not only plants as organisms, but the role they play in shaping the world around us.

Although many scientists have attempted to tackle these sorts of questions, I want to highlight the work on one individual in particular - Dr. Karl Niklas. His work utilizes mathematics to explain plant growth and form in relation to four basic physical constraints:

1) Plants have to capture sunlight and avoid shading their own leaves.

2) Plants have to support themselves structurally.

3) Plants have to conduct water to their various tissues.

4) Plants must be able to reproduce effectively.

Using these basic constraints, Dr. Niklas built a mathematical simulation of plant evolution. His model starts out as a "universe" containing billions of possible plant architectures. The model then assesses each of these forms on how well it is able to grow, survive, and reproduce through time. The model is then allowed to change environmental conditions to assess how these various forms perform as well as how they evolve.

The most remarkable part of this model is that it inevitably produces all sorts of familiar plant forms, such as those we see in lycophytes, ferns, as well as many of the tree architectural models mentioned above. What's more, later iterations of the model as well as others do an amazingly accurate job at predicting forest structure dynamics such as self-thinning, mortality, and realistic size/frequency distributions of various species.

It would appear that the rules governing what we know as a plant are to some degree universal. Because constraints such as light capture and the passive movement of water are firmly grounded in the laws of physics, it makes sense that the successful plant architectures we know and love today (as well as those present through the long history of plant evolution on this planet) are in large part a result of these physical constraints. It also begs the question of what photosynthetic life would look like on other planets. It is likely that if life arose and made its living in a similar way, familiar "plant" architecture could very well exist on other planets.

Photo Credits: [1] [2] [3]

Further Reading: [1] [2] [3] [4] [5]

#plant forms #Roelof Oldeman #modeling #pagoda dogwood #Francis halle #Cornus alternifolia #plant growth #sea almond #plant architecture #Karl Niklas #physics #Icacinaceae #theobroma cacao

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regnum-plantae · 7 years

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Natural spring restoration in Milan’s countryside

Back in October, when I was in Italy to visit my family, I was gifted with warm temperatures and bright days, so one afternoon I took full advantage of it with a walk to one of my favourite spots, just on the outskirts of my hometown.

Right next to a still-active farm dating back to the XVI century there once was a freshwater system of natural springs, which had eventually dried out due to a drop in ground water level. Years ago, effort was put into re-creating the lost ecosystem by carrying out a number of missions. Hydraulic works and a layer of clay soil ensured water flooded the creek again, and was retained by most of the bed. With water, the original animal and plant life slowly started re-appearing, but many tree species were re-introduced in order to create the type of forest which covered most of the plain space in northern Italy, now greatly urbanised and converted to fields. As indicated on the signs, which provide plenty of information regarding the whole story with pictures and maps, they actually tried to divide the area into three typical forests formations:

The oak-hornbeam forest, with a canopy of Quercus robus and Carpinus betulus and a shrubby layer of Prunus padus, Corylus avellana, Euonymus europaeus, Frangula alnus and Crataegus monogyna.

The black alder forest, named after the prevalence of Alnus glutinosa and other species who enjoy growing closer to water, like Viburnum opulus and Sambucus nigra.

The willow forest, with species adapted to riverbanks conditions and different degrees of flooding, like Salix caprea, Salix alba and Populus alba (more sheltered from flooding than the willows).

Other plants introduced in the area around the springs were: Acer campestre, Prunus avium, Ulmus minor, Prunus spinosa and Cornus sanguinea.

From the long wooden deck in the water it was easy to observe the numerous Squalius cephalus, known in English as European chub or just chub, swimming around. They are common across Europe and pretty common in northern Italy’s waterways. Nearby there were also some hives as the farmers use honeybees to ensure efficient pollination in the fields and collect honey.

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toddstreeservices · 4 years

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When Should I Prune Trees

Prevent disease, infestation, and poor health from debilitating and killing your trees. By knowing some simple pruning information and techniques, you can help your trees stay healthy and thriving for years to come.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered information on reasons to prune, the best time for pruning trees, the value of pruning, how to prune branches, and when you should seek a professional tree service.

Why Are You Pruning Your Trees?

Before picking up any equipment or making any pruning cuts, you should be crystal clear about the reason for your pruning. The following are some of the reasons trees should be pruned:

Encourage growth in a specific direction

Eliminate potentially dangerous branches

Remove interfering branches

Shape your tree

Encourage or reduce flowering or fruiting

Remove suckers or water sprouts

Crown cleaning (removes dead, diseased, or infested wood)

Crown thinning (allows more light to reach inner branches)

Crown raising (removes lower beaches)

Crown reduction (for mature trees, leaves old growth while encouraging new growth)

Once you have accomplished your pruning goal, stop. Every cut you make is an open wound and potential for infection and infestation.

Note: Never make physical contact with a tree that touches live power lines. The tree may be energized and cause your electrocution. In these cases, contact your power company to either prune the tree or cut the power while pruning or have the tree pruned.

Tip: Avoid pruning activities in late summer and early fall, this is the time diseases are most active and infectious.

Pruning Deciduous Trees

Deciduous tree species are those that shed their foliage in the fall, preparing for winter dormancy. During this period of dormancy, the tree conserves energy and slows all of its functions to a slow crawl.

Once the tree is dormant, and until bud break in early spring, it can be safely pruned for structure, shaping, safety, and encouraging vigorous, healthy new growth. Deciduous tree species include:

Maple

Oak

Elm

Beech

Aspen

Birch

Poplar

Willow

Pruning a deciduous tree during its dormancy period lowers the multiple risks of disease and pest infestations in open pruning wounds.

Pruning Evergreen Trees

Evergreen species are those that retain their foliage throughout the year. In the case of evergreens, they will shed old foliage as new foliage grows in regardless of the season. Evergreen tree species include:

Pine

Fir

Spruce

Hemlock

Redcedar

Arborvitae

Cypress

Eucalyptus

Yew

Except for pine tree species, evergreens should be pruned:

Before the emergence of new growth in early spring

During the period of semi dormancy in mid-summer

Use caution when pruning evergreens, some species like cypress have dead spaces behind their foliage. This is the area between the trunk and the foliage, consisting of only branches and twigs. Aggressive pruning for these species is discouraged, as it will likely leave large holes behind that will not fill in.

Note: Pine trees should be pruned in spring (damaged, dead, diseased, or infested branches can be pruned at any time). However, try to avoid pruning activities on pine trees in late summer and fall.

Pruning Flowering Trees

Flowering trees can be separated into two categories; One would be those that flower in the spring. The other would be those that flower in mid to late summer. Consider the following:

Trees and shrubs flowering in spring are doing so on last year’s growth. These trees and shrubs should be pruned when their flowers fade. These species include:

Azaleas (Rhododendron)

Forsythia (Forsythia x intermedia)

Hawthorn (Crataegus)

Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla)

Magnolia (Magnolia)

Trees and shrubs flowering in mid to late summer are doing so on the current year’s growth. These trees and shrubs should be pruned in winter or early spring. These species include:

Bradford Pear (Pyrus calleryana)

Crape Myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica)

Flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida)

Honeysuckle (Lonicera fragrantissiam)

Redbud (Cercis canadensis)

Wisteria (Wisteria species)

Pruning these species outside the timeframes described above can lead to a year without their flowering. Unseasonal pruning also exposes your tree to opportunistic diseases and insect infestation.

Pruning Fruit Trees

Your fruit trees should be pruned during dormancy, winter to early spring when foliage has fallen, and you can see the tree’s growing points (dormant buds). Think of your fruit tree as having vertical and horizontal branches.

Pruning a vertical branch will encourage vegetative growth, creating a bushing effect. Pruning horizontal branches renews fruiting wood and thins excessive fruiting.

Pruning vertical branches opens the tree canopy to more light while pruning horizontal branches removes fruit. Horizontal branches left unpruned will bear fruit earlier with more massive crops than those that were pruned.

When preparing to prune, be aware of the following fruiting principals of your tree:

These trees fruit on last year’s shoot growth and produce abundant crops. You can safely remove half of the previous year’s growth:

Kiwi

Peach

Nectarine

These trees bear on spurs. You can remove up to 20% of the previous year’s growth:

Olive

Walnut

Fig

Pecan

Apple

Pear

Plumb

Apricot

Perhaps the easiest to maintain are trees bearing citrus fruit. Keep the tree skirts pruned off the ground:

Grapefruit

Orange

Lemon

Clementine

Pomelo

Pruning fruit-bearing trees in the summer will slow fruit ripening and expose it to sunburn. However, early summer pruning can slow the growth of overly vigorous trees that have become too large to manage.

Tip: Sun exposed branches are fruitful and will produce larger fruit. Shaded branches will eventually stop producing fruit until drastic topping occurs. If you do most of your pruning in the top portion of the tree, the lower branches will continue exposed to sunlight.

Pruning Diseased and Infested Trees

Dead, diseased, and insect-infested branches (of any tree species) can be removed at any time of the year. In fact, the harm of leaving these branches, until the right pruning season, far outweighs the potential risks of pruning them off, out of season.

If the infestation or disease symptoms are present near the branch collar or on the tree trunk, hire a professional tree service to evaluate the tree’s condition and recommend a course of treatment or preventive actions, including emergency removal.

Note: In cases of severe infestation or infection, it is common practice to remove and destroy the tree. Thus preserving the health of your landscape and neighboring trees.

Pruning To Prevent Self-Pruning

Light deprived branches do not photosynthesize at the capacity they were intended. Over time, the tree may isolate that branch and let it go. In such scenarios, the sudden falling of a branch may occur, as the tree has self-pruned. Also known as cladoptosis, the following trees are notorious for spontaneously dropping their branches:

Eucalyptus

Aspen

Elm

Maple

Pecan

Pine

Poplar

Willow

Even providing the best care and attention possible to your trees, you may not be successful at preventing them from self-pruning. However, the following will help you slow this natural process:

Water your tree frequently with occasional deep waterings

Check the soil annually for nutrient deficiencies and its pH level

Prune to encourage healthy growth and remove unwanted/unneeded growth, consider crown thinning to allow more light to reach lower branches

Have your trees inspected annually for signs of infection and disease

Note: Even trees not known to self-prune may do so when under severe duress. Read more about cladoptosis at toddsmariettatreeservices.com/self-pruning-trees-cladoptosis/

Pruning Tools

The pruning process begins with the right tools for the job. Before starting, verify that your tools are sharp (to make clean cuts) and that they have been sanitized (to prevent transmitting disease pathogens) since their last use. The following is a list of tools to help you get your pruning job done correctly:

Hand-Held Pruning Shears (safely cuts branches up to 3/4 of an inch)

Loppers (safely cuts branches up to 2-1/2 inches thick)

Pruning Saw (capable of cutting branches up to 5 inches in diameter)

Pole Pruner (used to cut branches up to 1-1/4 inch thick up to 8 feet into the canopy)

Hedge Shears (these work well to trim evergreens)

Due to weight and the potential hazard more massive branches may pose, it is highly recommended that a professional tree service be hired to remove them.

Tip: Pruning shears and loppers come with anvil (has a straight blade using a splitting action), bypass (similar to scissors), and ratchet (like anvil, but with a locking mechanism allowing you to cut in stages) style blades.

How To Prune Tree Branches

The following will help you determine where and how to make pruning cuts:

Small Twigs and Branches – Use hand-held shears for anything up to 3/4 of an inch. You can cut these back to the main branch, or just in front of (1/4 of an inch) a dormant bud to encourage growth in the bud’s direction. All cuts should be clean and made at 45-degree angles.

Stems and Branches – Use loppers or a pole pruner to cut anything up to 2-1/2 inches. These can also be cut back to the main branch or trunk (just in front of the branch collar). If pruning out disease, make your cut 10 to 12 inches ahead of the affected area.

Large Branches – Use a saw to cut branches up to 5 inches in diameter. Due to the weight of these branches and potential for severe bark damage, make your cuts as follows:

Cut #1 is made under the branch about six inches ahead of the branch collar. This cut should be 1/4 of the branch’s diameter.

Cut #2 is made about 6 inches in front of the first cut to sever the branch from the tree.

Cut #3 is made just ahead of the branch collar to remove the rest of the branch.

Watch this video to see how pruning cuts are made.

youtube

Tip: When pruning any size branch back to the main branch or trunk, do not injure the branch collar. This is the tree’s mechanism used to compartmentalize the wounds left behind by pruning activities.

Note: When pruning out diseased wood, dispose of it carefully. Do not compost diseased wood or foliage, and sanitize your pruning equipment and gloves after contact with infected wood.

Tree Pruning

In this article, you discovered the best times and reasons for pruning various tree species, the value of properly pruning your trees, how to make pruning cuts, and when to call for professional help.

By pruning your trees, you can encourage vigorous growth, remove disease and infestation, and improve their health.

When you neglect to prune your trees, you encourage disease and infestation to debilitate your tree’s health, eventually leading to its death.

Sources: mortonarb.org/trees-plants/tree-and-plant-advice/horticulture-care/pruning-evergreens pubs.ext.vt.edu/430/430-456/430-456.html hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/pruning-trees/ arborday.org/trees/tips/ cesonoma.ucanr.edu/files/27164.pdf

Todd’s Marietta Tree Services

200 Cobb Pkwy N Ste 428 Marietta, GA 30062 (678) 505-0266

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pauldeckerus · 5 years

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Rooftop Photos of Tokyo at Night

Photographer Austin Hou visited Tokyo a number of times between 2017 and 2018 and spent his nights rooftopping and photographing the city from above.

Here’s what Hou says about the series:

My strongest memory from the first time I stepped into Tokyo was the feeling of being struck by the sheer scale and density of the place. That feeling never left me, and I became fascinated with understanding it. I visited time and time again to immerse myself in the intricate balance between order and chaos that felt so unique to the place.

It’s difficult to really understand a place that’s so immersive with so many layers. I realized that to even attempt to understand a place like Tokyo, I needed to explore its fringes – experiences far removed from the tourist circuit. This sparked a long series of explorations of the city: of its back alleys, its far reaches, and its curiosities. It wasn’t until my seventh of eighth time back, when my explorations led me upwards, that I found some of what I had been looking for. On the rooftops of Tokyo I witnessed a canopy unfold like no city I’d ever visited — an infinite three-dimensional landscape that resembled more closely a rainforest than anything remotely human.

“ukiyo vertigo” is a result of these explorations. Ukiyo refers to the “floating world” era of Japanese thought, and the Ukiyo-e art style that accompanied it. The illusory, removed, and profoundly temporary nature of the “transitory world” that it examined resonated with me in those long, endless nights above the city.

You can find more of Hou’s work on his website.

P.S. If you enjoyed these photos, be sure to check out photographer Alain Cornu’s 4×5 large format rooftop photos of Paris at night.

from Photography News https://petapixel.com/2019/03/30/rooftop-photos-of-tokyo-at-night/

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sailorrrvenus · 5 years

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Rooftop Photos of Tokyo at Night

Photographer Austin Hou visited Tokyo a number of times between 2017 and 2018 and spent his nights rooftopping and photographing the city from above.

Here’s what Hou says about the series:

You can find more of Hou’s work on his website.

P.S. If you enjoyed these photos, be sure to check out photographer Alain Cornu’s 4×5 large format rooftop photos of Paris at night.

source https://petapixel.com/2019/03/30/rooftop-photos-of-tokyo-at-night/

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diggerhome64-blog · 5 years

Text

Lee Daniels spends millions on a modern box in Beverly Hills (Post Office)

It’s no secret that the mountains above Beverly Hills are chock-full of Hollywood veterans. And there’s hardly a more ideal illustration of that fact than the cul-de-sac we shall discuss today. Located in the Coldwater Canyon area of Beverly Hills Hills Post Office (BHPO), the barely-there street contains just six homes. According to Yolanda’s research, all six of them are owned by people who make their living in the entertainment industry — one way or another.

Current residents on the cul-de-sac in question include celebrity stylist Petra Flannery, cinematographer Peter Deming, actress Ashley Greene, and prolific writer/producer Jeph Loeb.

Anyway, the largest and most expensive house on the wee street recently sold for $4,900,000 to a blind trust. So Yolanda did some sniffin’ around and discovered that the folks listed above have a very famous new neighbor. His name is Lee Daniels.

Lee Daniels

Born and bred in Philadelphia, our Mr. Daniels grew up being physically abused by his police officer father. But after his dad was killed in the line of duty, Mr. Daniels experienced freedom to put his vivid imagination to profitable use. He matriculated to Lindenwood University in Missouri, of all places, where he continued to seek an outlet for his creativity.

Mr. Daniels began his career as a nursing agent — like a talent agent but dedicated to “casting” nurses in hospitals and such — before becoming a casting director after a chance meeting with a Hollywood producer. Eventually, after he had amassed sufficient capital, he founded Lee Daniels Entertainment, his own production outfit. Monster’s Ball, his first film production, proved critically successful, and through it Halle Berry became the first black woman to ever win a Best Actress Oscar. He also produced and directed Precious, for which he received a Best Director nomination at the 2009 Academy Awards.

But Mr. Daniels’ most profitable work has almost certainly been on the small screen. He is the co-creator and producer of both the Fox shows Empire and Star, both of which have become commercially successful and spawned multiple seasons.

Now in his late 50s, Mr. Daniels is openly gay and in a longterm relationship with a much younger man named Jahil Fisher. And though he has no biological children, he did adopt his niece and nephew many years ago (the kids are now in their 20s).

While he has spent most of his adult life living in New York City, it appears Mr. Daniels has finally dove headfirst into Lalaland with his impressive new BHPO home. Or maybe this is just a part-time residence and he’ll remain bicoastal. Who knows? Not Yolanda, that’s who.

The unique structure is ideal for a celebrity like Mr. Daniels: set way down a long driveway and behind a hulking gate and a dense tree canopy, the entire house is invisible from the cul-de-sac out front. As y’all might expect, the nearly $5 million property is equipped with a sophisticated security system.

According to records, the house was originally built in 1952, but it’s obviously been redone multiple times in the 65+ years since. The .82-acre mini-estate was last sold back in 2015 for $1,750,000 to a non-famous gentleman who gave the ol’ gurl a radical makeover. Check out the nipped-and-tucked result above.

A large motorcourt rests outside the two-car garage. The charcoal-colored house (ooh, sultry!) features loft-like living spaces spread over multiple levels. Per the listing, there is a generous 5,245-square-feet of living space with 4 beds and 4.5 baths.

Inside, the home aims to impress with huge amounts of slate, granite, marble and exotic-lookin’ hardwoods throughout. Large bay windows flood the property with light, and open-concept living makes the property appear even larger than it actually is. The massive kitchen directly overlooks lush Coldwater Canyon and features a vaulted ceiling and one of those ultra-chic La Cornue ranges that probably cost more than a new Camry.

We really like the hardwood choice for the kitchen cabinets. Yolanda never would’ve thought that particular wood would look good in a kitchen, but somehow it works. (Or maybe that’s just the alcohol talking.) Oh, somewhere by the steel-and-wood stairwell is an indoor fountain stocked with koi fish.

The lavish upstairs master suite is all-new and spans 1,000-square-feet — or about one-fifth of the entire home. Prairie-like areas within include a bedroom with direct access to a private balcony, a double-sided fireplace, and a massive closet/dressing room area equipped with a skylight. The master bath includes a soaking tub, walls of glass, and a novel shower “cube” smack-dab in the middle of the room.

Personally we prefer a little more privacy with our shower situation, but that’s just Yolanda. Take no heed of our prudish self, Mr. Daniels.

The other three bedroom suites are much smaller but outfitted in a very similar luxe manner: glassy showers, Toto toilets, walls of glass and the like.

In addition to the upstairs deck (equipped with yoga mats), there’s also a huge 2,500-square-foot deck off the lower level that includes a classy rectangular swimming pool and tons of space for outdoor furniture and entertaining.

Also in the backyard is an adorable wee box that functions as a standalone library, per the listing. We must admit that Yolanda would love to curl up in here on a rainy day (like today) with a good Agatha Christie mystery and a bottle of perfectly aged port. Mmmm.

It’s widely known that Mr. Daniels also keeps a home in New York City, but if your gurl is being completely honest — and we always are — we confess that we don’t know a damn thing about that place.

Listing agent: Christophe Collet, Coldwell Banker Lee Daniels’ agent: Steven Dubin, Douglas Elliman

Source: http://www.yolandaslittleblackbook.com/blog/2018/12/06/lee-daniels-house-los-angeles/

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hourlyhattricks-blog · 5 years

Photo

Gray Dogwood Cornus racemosa

Plant community: N/A

Native to North America

Found in Northeastern North America

Mature size: 10-15’ high, 10-15’canopy width

Habitat and growing conditions: Found in moist, well-drained soils in full sun to part shade. Can tolerate wet conditions and slightly dry soil. Lives in disturbed habitats, meadows, fields, forests, and floodplains.

Hardiness zone: Zones 4,5,6,7,8

Leaf color: green

Flower color: white

Medicinal uses:

· Treatments: bark infusion

· Uses: Bark infusion used to treat toothaches

Sources:

Medicinal Botany by Walter Lewis and Memory Elvin-Lewis

http://www.mortonarb.org/trees-plants/tree-plant-descriptions/gray-dogwood

https://plants.usda.gov/core/profile?symbol=CORA6

https://gobotany.newenglandwild.org/species/swida/racemosa/

http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?taxonid=279351&isprofile=1&basic=gray%20dogwood

#zone4 #zone5 #zone6 #zone7 #zone8 #herbalinfusion #teeth

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laynebaril1blog-blog · 6 years

Text

SCIN 135 Lab 3

Click Link Below To Buy:

http://hwcampus.com/shop/scin-135-lab-3/

[email protected]

Part 1 of 1 - 100.0 Points

Question 1 of 50 2.0 Points

Questions 1-5 pertain to Species 1.

What is the branching pattern of this tree?

A.Opposite

B.Alternate

Question 2 of 50 2.0 Points

What is the leaf shape?

A.Simple, no lobes.

B.Compound, lobed.

C.Simple, lobed.

D.Compound, no lobes.

Question 3 of 50 2.0 Points

For each species in this lab, you'll need to examine the leaf edge and margin. In other words, does your tree have a leaf that is smooth around the margins of the leaf (entire)

Now, which choice best describes the leaf edge or margin?

A.Smooth and entire

B.Serrate, toothed, or spiny.

Question 4 of 50 2.0 Points

What is the Latin Name for this species? (For all of the "Latin name" questions: write two words with no comma. Capitalize the Genus. Lower case the species. Example: "Rosa rugosa") Fagus grandifolia

Question 5 of 50 2.0 Points

This tree is noteworthy because... (choose all that are correct)

A. older, large trees are often hollow and were once used commonly as culverts in road building.

B. its triangular shaped beech nuts are eaten by a large variety of wildlife.

C. it prefers sun and emerges quickly when an old field is left fallow.

D. it is shade tolerant and therefore assumes dominance in a late stage of forest succession.

Question 6 of 50 2.0 Points

Questions 6-10 pertain to Species 2.

What is the branching pattern of this tree?

A.Opposite

B.Alternate

Question 7 of 50 2.0 Points

What is the leaf shape?

A.Simple, no lobes.

B.Compound, lobed.

C.Simple, lobed.

D.Compound, no lobes.

Question 8 of 50 2.0 Points

Which choice best describes the leaf edge or margin?

A.Smooth and entire

B.Serrate, toothed, or spiny.

Question 9 of 50 2.0 Points

What is the Latin Name for this species?. Platanus occidentails

Question 10 of 50 2.0 Points

This tree is noteworthy because... (choose all that are correct)

A. it is a vigorous stump sprouter.

B. its seeds are eaten by juncos, finches, and chickadees.

C. it prefers sun and emerges quickly when an old field is left fallow.

D. it is a riparian (stream-side) loving tree. The hollows in old trees are often used as nesting sites for birds and mammals.

Question 11 of 50 2.0 Points

Questions 11-15 pertain to Species 3

What is the branching pattern of this tree?

A.Opposite

B.Alternate

Question 12 of 50 2.0 Points

What is the leaf shape?

A.Simple, no lobes.

B.Compound, lobed.

C.Simple, lobed.

D.Compound, no lobes.

Question 13 of 50 2.0 Points

Which choice best describes the leaf edge or margin?

A.Serrate, toothed, or spiny

B.Smooth and entire

Question 14 of 50 2.0 Points

What is the Latin Name for this species? . Acer rubrum

Question 15 of 50 2.0 Points

This tree is noteworthy because... (choose all that are correct)

A. the species "rubrum" means rubbery.

B. deer, elk, moose, and hares survive the winter nibbling on the branches.

C. it is considered a weed tree when it competes with oaks in forests managed for hardwood production.

D. flying squirrels eat the orange berries.

Question 16 of 50 2.0 Points

Questions 16-20 pertain to Species 4

What is the leaf type?

A.Leafy, broad, hardwood, angiosperm, flowering plant.

B.Needle-like, scaly, softwood, gymnosperm, cone-bearing plant.

Question 17 of 50 2.0 Points

What is the length of the cone?

A.6-10 inches

B.3-6 inches

C.2-3 inches

D.3/4 inch

Question 18 of 50 2.0 Points

What is the length of the needles?

A.1/2 -1.5 inches

B.6-9 inches

C.4-7 inches

D.8-18 inches

Question 19 of 50 2.0 Points

What is the Latin Name for this species? Pinus palustris

Question 20 of 50 2.0 Points

This tree is noteworthy because... (choose all that are correct)

A. mature trees provide homes for endangered red cockaded woodpeckers.

B. the chemicals in it sap can be distilled in naval stores (turpentine, rosin, pitch and tar).

C. it prefers sun and the seeds in the soil sprout quickly when an old field is left fallow.

D. it is shade tolerant and therefore assumes dominance in a late stage of forest succession.

Question 21 of 50 2.0 Points

Questions 21-25 pertain to Species 5.

What is the branching pattern of this tree?

A.Opposite

B.Alternate

Question 22 of 50 2.0 Points

What is the leaf shape?

A.Simple, no lobes.

B.Compound, lobed.

C.Simple, lobed.

D.Compound, no lobes.

Question 23 of 50 2.0 Points

Which choice best describes the leaf edge or margin?

A.Serrate, toothed, or spiny

B.Smooth and entire

Question 24 of 50 2.0 Points

What is the Latin Name for this species? Salix nigra

Question 25 of 50 2.0 Points

This tree is noteworthy because... (choose all that are correct)

A. older, large trees are often hollow and were once used commonly as culverts in road building.

B. its triangular shaped nuts are eaten by a large variety of wildlife.

C. it prefers sunny moist places.

D. it is fast growing.

Question 26 of 50 2.0 Points

Questions 26-30 pertains to Species 6.

What is the branching pattern of this tree?

A.Opposite

B.Alternate

Question 27 of 50 2.0 Points

What is the leaf shape?

A.Simple, no lobes.

B.Compound, lobed.

C.Simple, lobed.

D.Compound, no lobes.

Question 28 of 50 2.0 Points

What type of veins feed the leaf?

A.palmate veins--like the fingers on a hand

B.pinnate veins--like the barbs on a feather

C.arcuate veins--curved like an arch

D.parallel veins--straight like fence posts

Question 29 of 50 2.0 Points

What is the Latin Name for this species? Cornus florida

Question 30 of 50 2.0 Points

This tree is noteworthy because... (choose all that are correct)

A. the tree is a towering canopy tree.

B. the red berries are enjoyed by 36 species of birds.

C. the hard, small diameter wood is used for gadgets that get a lot of use.

D. the genus "cornus" means corn-like

Question 31 of 50 2.0 Points

Questions 31-35 pertain to Species 7

What is the branching pattern of this tree?

A.Opposite

B.Alternate

Question 32 of 50 2.0 Points

What is the leaf shape?

A.Simple, no lobes.

B.Compound, lobed.

C.Simple, lobed.

D.Compound, no lobes.

Question 33 of 50 2.0 Points

Which choice best describes the leaf edge or margin?

A.Serrate, toothed, or spiny

B.Smooth and entire

Question 34 of 50 2.0 Points

What is the Latin Name for this species? Quercus alba

Question 35 of 50 2.0 Points

This tree is noteworthy because... (choose all that are correct)

A. its sturdy hard wood that can be used to hold significant weight in flooring, bridge planking, mine timbers, and housing beams.

B. its nutritious fruit feeds 180 species of wildlife.

C. its natural lifespan is between 300 and 500 years.

D. it was used to makes barrels tight enough to hold alcohol (i.e. beer, whiskey)

Question 36 of 50 2.0 Points

Questions 39-40 pertain to Species 8

What is the branching pattern of this tree?

A.Opposite

B.Alternate

Question 37 of 50 2.0 Points

What is the leaf shape?

A.Simple, no lobes.

B.Compound, lobed.

C.Simple, lobed.

D.Compound, no lobes.

Question 38 of 50 2.0 Points

Which choice best described the leaf edge or margin?

A.Smooth and entire

B.Serrate, toothed, or spiny.

Question 39 of 50 2.0 Points

What is the Latin Name for this species? Carya ovata

Question 40 of 50 2.0 Points

This tree is noteworthy because... (choose all that are correct)

A. its red berries are toxic to people.

B. its bark that peels away from the trunk in large strips.

C. its wood is used to smoke meats, make strong tool handles and ladder rungs.

D. the species name "ovata" refers to its egg shaped leaflets.

Question 41 of 50 2.0 Points

Questions 41-45 pertain to Species 9

What is the leaf type?

A.Leafy, broad, hardwood, angiosperm, flowering plant.

B.Needle-like, scaly, softwood, gymnosperm, cone-bearing plant.

Question 42 of 50 2.0 Points

What is the length of the cone?

A.6-10 inches

B.3-6 inches

C.2-3 inches

D.3/4 inches

Question 43 of 50 2.0 Points

What is the length of the needles?

A.1/2-1.5 inches

B.6-9 inches

C.4-7 inches

D.8-18 inches

Question 44 of 50 2.0 Points

What is the Latin Name for this species? . Tsuga canadensis

Question 45 of 50 2.0 Points

This tree is noteworthy because... (choose all that are correct)

A. it can live in deep shade for 1000 years.

B. the wood is sturdy but light and grips nails tightly.

C. the back of leaves on the lower branches are the ideal spot for the white woolly eggs which hatch into tiny, leaf sucking nymphs of an adelgid.

D. is loses its needles in winter.

Question 46 of 50 2.0 Points

Questions 46-50 pertain to Species 10

What is the branching pattern of this tree?

A.Opposite

B.Alternate

Question 47 of 50 2.0 Points

What is the leaf shape?

A.Simple, no lobes.

B.Compound, lobed.

C.Simple, lobed.

D.Compound, no lobes.

Question 48 of 50 2.0 Points

Which choice best describes the leaf edge or margin?

A.Serrate, toothed, or spiny

B.Smooth and entire

Question 49 of 50 2.0 Points

What is the Latin Name for this species? Sassafras albidum

Question 50 of 50 2.0 Points

This tree is noteworthy because... (choose all that are correct)

A. its bitter smell is used to repel mice.

B. its triangular shaped nuts are eaten by a large variety of wildlife.

C. fruit is eaten by fruit eating birds--bobwhites, turkeys, kingbirds, woodpeckers, flycatchers, mockingbirds

D. its roots make delicious tea.

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vandaliatraveler · 3 years

Photo

One of the strongest memories I have of growing up in Appalachia is of forested hillsides running white from dogwood blossoms in early May. From my simple perspective of the world, spring and flowering dogwoods were inseparable and inviolate. Then about thirty years ago, the dogwoods in the higher elevations of Appalachia began to die off en masse, victims of an invasive fungus from Asia whose terrible blight was exacerbated by climate change. Today, dogwood anthracnose has virtually wiped out the flowering dogwood (Cornus florida) from its original mountain range. Remnant populations have managed to survive in open woods, along forest margins, and in open fields, where sunlight restricts the growth of the fungus. In sustainably-timbered or recovering forest, where the canopy remains open, this gorgeous tree can still put on a show to remember. But these isolated displays pale before the rapturous explosion of blossoms I remember from my boyhood. I count myself lucky to have experienced it and to keep it in my memories to this day.

#appalachia #vandalia #west virginia #spring #flora #cornus florida #flowering dogwood #dogwood anthracnose #invasive species #climate change #ecology #mon river trail

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livingcorner · 3 years

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Forest Gardening – The Agroforestry Research Trust

A Forest Garden is a designed agronomic system based on trees, shrubs and perennial plants. These are mixed in such a way as to mimic the structure of a natural forest – the most stable and sustainable type of ecosystem in this climate.

The primary aims for the system are:

You're reading: Forest Gardening – The Agroforestry Research Trust

To be biologically sustainable, able to cope with disturbances such as climate change

To be productive, yielding a number (often large) of different products

To require low maintenance.

The crops which are produced will often include fruits, nuts, edible leaves, spices, medicinal plant products, poles, fibres for tying, basketry materials, honey, fuelwood, fodder, mulches, game, sap products. Forest gardens (often called home gardens) have been used for millennia in tropical regions, where they still often form a major part of the food producing systems which people rely on, even if they work elsewhere for much of the time. They may also provide useful sources of extra income. They are usually small in area, often 0.1-1 hectares (+61404532026 acres).

In temperate regions, forest gardens are a more recent innovation, over the last 30 years. A major limiting factor for temperate forest gardens in the amount of sunlight available to the lower layers of the garden: in tropical regions, the strong light conditions allow even understorey layers to receive substantial light, whereas in temperate regions this is not usually the case. To compensate for this, understorey layers in temperate forest gardens must be chosen very carefully.

Read more: One Thing I Wish Someone Told Me Before I Started a Succulent Garden

There are plenty of plant crops which tolerate shady conditions, but many are not well known. Many of the more common shrub or perennial crops need bright conditions, and it may be necessary to design in more open clearings or glades for such species. Temperate forest gardens are also usually small in area, from tiny back garden areas up to a hectare (2.5 acres) in size.

The key features which contribute to the stability and self-sustaining nature of this system are:

The large number of species used, giving great diversity.

The careful inclusion of plants which increase fertility, such as nitrogen fixers (eg. Alders [Alnus spp], Broom [Cytisus scoparius], Elaeagnus spp, and shrub lupins [Lupinus arboreus]).

The use of dynamic accumulators – deep rooting plants which can tap mineral sources deep in the subsoil and raise them into the topsoil layer where they become available to other plants, eg. Coltsfoot [Petasites spp], Comfreys [Symphytum spp], Liquorice [Glycyrrhiza spp], Sorrel (and docks!) [Rumex spp].

The use of plants specially chosen for their ability to attract predators of common pests, eg umbellifers like tansy.

The use, where possible, of pest and disease resistant varieties, eg. apples.

The increasing role of tree cover and leaf litter which improve nutrient cycling and drought resistance.

There is an excellent free app called Ticl (smart phone and web based) which allows you to walk around a garden with a smart phone and it will describe the plants nearest to you – or you can locate specific plants using a direction-finder. Online you can see a zoom-able map of the garden with location points marked on. If you visit the garden with a smart phone you can use Ticl to help identify what is growing!

Click here to see the ART forest garden. You need to log in to see all the plant points.

Designing in Layers

A forest garden is organised in up to seven ‘layers’ . Within these, the positioning of species depends on many variables, including their requirements for shelter, light, moisture, good/bad companions, mineral requirements, pollination, pest-protection, etc. The layers consist of:

Canopy Trees

– the highest layer of trees. May include species such as Chestnuts [Castanea spp], Persimmons [Diospyros virginiana], honey locusts [Gleditsia triacanthos], Strawberry trees [Arbutus spp], Siberian pea trees [Caragana arborescens] Cornelian cherries [Cornus mas], Azeroles and other hawthorn family fruits [Crataegus spp], Quinces [Cydonia oblonga], Apples [Malus spp], Medlars [Mespilus germanica], Mulberries [Morus spp], Plums [Prunus domestica], Pears [Pyrus communis], highbush cranberries [Viburnum trilobum].

Small trees and large shrubs

– mostly planted between and below the canopy trees. May includes some of the canopy species on dwarfing rootstocks, and others such as various bamboos, Serviceberries [Amelanchier spp], Plum yews [Cephalotaxus spp], Chinkapins [Castanea pumila], Elaeagnus spp, and Japanese peppers [Zanthoxylum spp]. Others may be trees which will be coppiced to keep them shrubby, like medicinal Eucalyptus spp, and beech [Fagus sylvatica] and limes [Tilia spp] with edible leaves.

Shrubs

– mostly quite shade tolerant. May include common species like currants [Ribes spp] and berries [Rubus spp], plus others like chokeberries [Aronia spp], barberries [Berberis spp], Chinese dogwood [Cornus kousa chinensis], Oregon grapes [Mahonia spp], New Zealand flax [Phormium tenax] and Japanese bitter oranges [Poncirus trifoliata].

Read more: Sauteed Garden Fresh Green Beans

Herbaceous perennials

– several of which are herbs and will also contribute to the ground cover layer by self-seeding or spreading. These may include Bellflowers with edible leaves [Campanula spp], Comfreys [Symphytum spp], Balm [Melissa officinalis], Mints [Mentha spp], Sage [Salvia officinalis], and Tansy [Tanacetum vulgare].

Ground covers

– mostly creeping carpeting plants which will form a living mulch for the ‘forest floor’. Some may be herbaceous perennials (see above), others include wild gingers [Asarum spp], cornels [Cornus canadensis], Gaultheria spp, and carpeting brambles (eg. Rubus calycinoides & R.tricolor).

Climbers and vines

– These are generally late additions to the garden, since they obviously need sturdy trees to climb up. They may include hardy kiwis [Actinidia spp], and grapes [Vitis spp].

Rhizosphere

– Any design should take account of different rooting habits and requirements of different species, even if root crops are not grown much. Some perennials with useful roots include liquorice [Glycyrrhiza spp] and the barberries [Berberis spp] whose roots furnish a good dye and medicinal products. Various beneficial fungi can also be introduced into this layer.

A long-term biologically sustainable system for growing food & other products for a household, school, community group etc.

Once established, little work is needed to maintain.

Planting out and establishment usually requires large numbers of plants and substantial work.

Source: https://livingcorner.com.au Category: Garden

source https://livingcorner.com.au/forest-gardening-the-agroforestry-research-trust/

#livingcornernews

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charmedheartz-blog · 7 years

Photo

Untitled #444 by bamasbabes featuring a rose bowl

Williams-Sonoma La Cornue CornueFe 110 Suzanne Kassler Collection / Frigidaire FGID2476S 24 Inch Wide 14 Place Setting Capacity Energy / KitchenAid kitchen dining / Rose bowl / Dualit toaster / Pegasus/Glacier Bay Lyndhurst Bridge Kitchen Faucet Brushed Nickel... / Cuisinart small appliance / Non stick cookware / Aluminum cookware / Sweetly Does it / Pink dinnerware / Paddywax kitchen dining / Plaster Pink Dutch Tea/Coffee Pot, $26 / Wu Wu sugar canister / PiP Studio floral dinnerware, $11 / Retrò flip top bottle, $9.17 / Avanity Modero Chilled Gray Undermount Single Sink Bathroom Vanity... / Unscented pillar candle / Serveware / Canopy Designs flower lamp / Dial P for Princess Phone / Tadpoles Layered Tulle Window Valance

#polyvore #art

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endlessarchite · 7 years

Text

Try new Bespoke kitchen designs

The design and the set-up of bespoke cooking areas are developed based upon private requirements of the property owner. Bespokekitchen designers recommend handcrafted cooking areas, which are developed to guarantee that the interiors will be comfortable and effective to utilize. Modern bespoke styles are planned to deal with the issues that belong to out-of-date designs.

The majority of people who opt to adjust bespoke cooking area styles are impressed at the various designs and styles that are influenced by the most current patterns in the market. Likewise, the idea of bespoke cooking areas is generally offering an open cooking location with a space-saving dining location for all the relative. If done completely, handcrafted kitchen areas can even work as the centerpiece of your house’s interior.

Around the corner, the open shelving continues simply high enough not to disrupt the function of the gooseneck faucet listed below. The faucet– much like the shelving– produces another ideal shift in between conventional and contemporary.Positioned in between the range and sink walls is an island of English oak and Italian black basalt stone. Here a secondary sink indicates there’s space for 2 when it pertains to producing culinary masterpieces. The island has actually been created to use the visual of a piece of furnishings instead of kitchen cabinetry. To strengthen this, it comes total with an open rack listed below and turned legs.The turned legs are thick and chunky befitting an island of this size. It’s a grand declaration for a grand kitchen.Between the counter and the rack, the island includes a row of custom-made drawers created to hold the property owner’s collection of flatware, to name a few items.A cutting board raises to expose an arranged stretch of knives, each with its own particular area– keeping edges different, safe and sharp.

The plate drawer is fitted with pegs to separate each stacked area, leaving simply enough space in between them to prevent touching. The pegs can be brought up and restructured at a minutes whim.And if cooking is not your thing, you can constantly unwind on the benches throughout the space, listed below the windows and between the custom-made hand painted Sapele cabinets.

Aside from integrating warm and cold components, Cook’s kitchen likewise juxtaposes contemporary and conventional aspects. Aspects like the sensational modern copper and stainless-steel La Cornue variety cooker and extraction canopy– developed to match the customer’s copper pans. The hood boasts a tidy contemporary profile while the range provides a generally comprehensive exterior.

Try new Bespoke kitchen designs published first on your-t1-blog-url

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bakerskitchenslimited · 7 years

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Try new Bespoke kitchen designs

Around the corner, the open shelving continues simply high enough not to disrupt the function of the gooseneck faucet listed below. The faucet-- much like the shelving-- produces another ideal shift in between conventional and contemporary.Positioned in between the range and sink walls is an island of English oak and Italian black basalt stone. Here a secondary sink indicates there's space for 2 when it pertains to producing culinary masterpieces. The island has actually been created to use the visual of a piece of furnishings instead of kitchen cabinetry. To strengthen this, it comes total with an open rack listed below and turned legs.The turned legs are thick and chunky befitting an island of this size. It's a grand declaration for a grand kitchen.Between the counter and the rack, the island includes a row of custom-made drawers created to hold the property owner's collection of flatware, to name a few items.A cutting board raises to expose an arranged stretch of knives, each with its own particular area-- keeping edges different, safe and sharp.

Aside from integrating warm and cold components, Cook's kitchen likewise juxtaposes contemporary and conventional aspects. Aspects like the sensational modern copper and stainless-steel La Cornue variety cooker and extraction canopy-- developed to match the customer's copper pans. The hood boasts a tidy contemporary profile while the range provides a generally comprehensive exterior.

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