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fashionbyf · 1 year

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What fashion makes the heritage cut? What Shoemaker of Dreams and even the Walter Albini relaunch indicates…

The Salvatore Ferragamo documentary Shoemaker of Dreams directed by Luca Guadagnino is finally available on AppleTV and, if you missed it in theaters or at other screenings in Italy since its first premieres in 2021, this is the time to watch it. Mix yourself an Aperol Spritz, imagine you’re at Procacci or Obika on Via Tornabuoni (unfortunately the former Anglo-American haunt featured in Tea with Mussolini, Doney’s, closed years ago…) and immerse yourself in the story of this Southern Italian immigrant to the United States who revolutionized shoes and shoe-making for Florentines and the wider world. Full of personal insights, the documentary also features Salvatore Ferragamo’s own voice taken from 1955 recordings of his Memoirs and interviews with Australian TV outlets in 1958. This is an especially moving part of the documentary because Salvatore Ferragamo’s voice, in some ways, perfectly encapsulates the context of the cultural moments in which he participated beyond fashion. Heritage, we might say, before heritage. These moments include Italians coming to the United States in the early 20th century with the requisite $20 entrance fee to create new lives and new identities for themselves, the beginnings of the movie industry in Santa Barbara in all its creativity and its decampment to Hollywood, and the determination of entrepreneurs to succeed against all odds and Florentine expectations, even in a complex early 20th century Italy facing economic sanctions.

But, even more than that, the documentary is a testament to one man’s vision of shoes, from how they should be made, to the creativity they can embody and the messages they can impart. And this vision, on display more than 100 years later, is perhaps the most striking thing about the documentary because the vision highlights how we can project the present into the future and extend a role to the past in our visions of the present. Speaking after the bankruptcy of his business in 1933, Ferragamo is quoted in the documentary

For the first time in my life, I started to look back over the shoulder of my past. As a flash, it all seemed to see many things which I had, until then, never seen before. I looked forward to my future.

Looking to our past, even as we craft our personal narratives, and spotting what matters and what doesn’t, and how to use that for the benefit of our present and our future, is a central question at the heart of heritage.

In fashion, a field defined by its timeliness (as Saviolo and Corbellini in particular describe it), spotting what will matter over time is an endeavor. But, as time passes, time acts almost as a sieve, filtering out what matters and what doesn’t, what is timeless and what is timely for present generations. The results of the application of time can be unexpected (would you have thought that thinly rectangular sunglasses, low rise pants and other silhouettes from the late nineties and early noughties would be back in fashion?). The results can also be unexpected but somewhat pre-identifiable, driven by marketing, important brand anniversaries, and brand mythmaking as much as by nostalgia and/or individual and collective tastes (Exhibit A: the resurgence of the Fendi Baguette bag). Designers often play an important role in the curation of the past, as Maximilian Davis is doing at Ferragamo now- citing to Ferragamo’s gold sandal and building on the F heel, among other design details.

The pull between the past and the present, what we might term a battle for the future of fashion- heritage- also depends on the law. And this is also on display in Shoemaker of Dreams. One of the primary pieces of evidence shown during the documentary as a testament to Ferragamo’s vision are the multitude of patents he had on the procedures for his shoe designs, the processes to make them, and their look (the Ferragamo Museum also staged an insightful exhibit on these patents in 2004). What we can take from the past and what we can re-use often depends on whether someone has a right to control a production, the use of a design, its reproduction and even the associations we make and have with that design. Some of the most insightful of Ferragamo’s creations (many reproduced ingeniously as part of the Ferragamo’s Creations line) are the fruit of others’ control of raw materials (or lack thereof), his own patents which reserved control over specific parts to Ferragamo himself for a time, the matching of tradition and innovation, and the inspiration that came from themes, recalling, and remembering. While the documentary uses the Invisible Sandal (one of the most evocative examples I’ve explored extensively in other work) and the caged heel, the facts surrounding Ferragamo’s wedge made with cork are particularly evocative of the numerous threads that make up the design of one of his shoes. In his Memoirs, Ferragamo details how, after designing them years before, he discovered that a version of wedge soles had been worn centuries before thanks to an archeological excavation at Villa di Boccaccio outside Florence in 1950. As Ferragamo shares in another part of the documentary

I have not followed any master. I have not followed any school. Where have I learned all that I know? I had a clear vision that my work had never been done before. I have done it. Where? I do not know. But everything that I have done since my boyhood time, it has been work which came back to me. All I have to do while I work is to sit down and recall what I know about this work and do it again.

Knowing what fashion heritage is years later, what heritage makes the cut, is often a product of vision and, as Ferragamo’s work shows, of the tools and instruments that support that vision, from patents to trademarks, and even a robust public domain and other doctrines that allow for re-mixing, re-use, and commentary. As time goes on, curation and preservation, saving the vision and the tools and instruments that support that vision, are also central to identifying what is fashion heritage and how it can impact our fashion today. This is why archives themselves are also important for making the heritage cut.

And the acquiring of rights and archives to support a contemporary vision is what we see happening today with the revival of heritage brands, like that of the incredibly prescient Walter Albini, who, as a designer, preceded Giorgio Armani in his impact on Italian ready-to-wear and the concept of Milanese fashion. The announcement of the revival of the Walter Albini brand noted that the investment company that is relaunching it acquired the designer’s “intellectual property and archives”, including the acquisition of a large tangible archive of “garments, costume jewellery, drawings, photographs, and other memorabilia” from Dr. Barbara Curti, who is listed as Chief Memory Officer of the Walter Albini Archive. While we will have to see what the vision for a 21st century Walter Albini line is, the acquisition of the previous brand’s intellectual property and archives are fundamental first steps to identifying what fashion heritage has made the cut for our present times.

References and Further Readings

https://www.lofficielusa.com/fashion/gen-z-y2k-millennial-90s-fashion-nostalgia

https://tv.apple.com/ca/movie/salvatore-ferragamo-the-shoemaker-of-dreams/umc.cmc.13bohnm0ogsk0g6wdwlftjqud

https://www.wsj.com/articles/its-happening-again-the-return-of-low-rise-jeans-d8efc3f0

The Shoemaker of Dreams by Salvatore Ferragamo (in the Italian version, pages 131-35 for the story of the cork wedge)

https://academic.oup.com/jiplp/article/17/11/891/6852707

https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/salvatore-ferragamo

https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/salvatore-ferragamo

https://artsandculture.google.com/story/UQWRSqxpWZsfIg?hl=it

https://cardozoaelj.com/fashions-brand-heritage-cultural-heritage-and-the-piracy-paradox/

https://repository.law.umich.edu/articles/222/

https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/luxury/walter-albini-relaunch-confirmed/

https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2007/09/24/the-piracy-paradox

https://www.nyulawreview.org/issues/volume-97-number-2/memes-on-memes-and-the-new-creativity/

https://www.cambridge.org/core/books/history-of-intellectual-property-in-50-objects/0737F2B342A61E0E90B0A98288E412C3

https://www.skira.net/books/le-leggi-della-moda/

https://www.bloomsbury.com/us/paris-capital-of-fashion-9781350102965/

https://www.unesco.org/en/legal-affairs/convention-safeguarding-intangible-cultural-heritage

https://www.instagram.com/walteralbini_officialarchive/

https://scholarworks.uark.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1027&context=alr

https://scholarship.law.tamu.edu/facscholar/480/

Images from

https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/salvatore-ferragamo/slideshow/details#77

https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/salvatore-ferragamo/slideshow/details#57

https://mostra1972.unipr.it/s/1972_mostra_en/page/designer_albini

https://www.ferragamo.com/creations/en/eur

#walter albini #fashion heritage #brand archives #fashion law #cultural heritage law #shoemaker of dreams #salvatore ferragamo #wedge heels #maximilian davis #ferragamo museum #ferragamo archive #albini archive #design patents #utility patents #patents #trademarks #fashion design #luca guadagnino

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galvanilegal · 5 months

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Design Patent Bar Will Be Formed by Patent Office in 2024

Brown’s Ranch in Scottsdale The Patent Office is establishing a separate design patent bar for people to practice design patent prosecution in front of the USPTO. I am generally against this, because I believe it will lead to bad advice being given to inventors which can destroy their ability to protect their ideas properly. The design patent bar, unlike every other state or specialty bar in the…

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#design patents

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thepatentexperts · 10 months

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Understanding the Differences between Utility Patent vs Design Patent Drawings | The Patent Experts

Introduction:

When it comes to intellectual property protection, inventors have two main options: utility patents and design patents. Both forms of patents provide distinct benefits and address various parts of an innovation. The inclusion of drawings or illustrations is a critical component of the patent application process. In this blog post, we will look at the fundamental differences between utility patent and design patent drawings, as well as how to develop excellent patent illustrations that increase the chances of a successful patent application.

Understanding Utility Patents:

Utility patents are issued to inventions that serve a specified purpose or function. They safeguard an invention’s functionality and intended applications. Utility patent drawings are critical in explaining the structure, usefulness, and distinguishing aspects of the invention.

Elements of Utility Patent Drawings:

Detailed and Accurate Representation: Utility patent drawings must be precise and complete in order to leave no possibility for misinterpretation.

Utilizing Computer-Aided Design (CAD) Software: Using CAD software ensures professional-looking, standardized drawings that meet patent office requirements.

Labeling and Numbering: Each component of the invention should be properly labeled and numbered to aid comprehension of its structure.

Understanding Design Patents:

Design patents, on the other hand, protect the ornamental or visually appealing components of an innovation. They are more concerned with the unique visual look than with the utilitarian features.

Elements of Design Patent Drawings:

Originality and Ornamental Nature: Design patent drawings must stress the invention’s unique and distinguishing aesthetic traits.

Multiple Views and Perspective: Different perspectives, such as front, side, and perspective views, should be included to illustrate the design from multiple angles.

Neatness and Clarity: To convey the appearance of the innovation in a visually appealing manner, design patent drawings should be crisp, clean, and clutter-free.

Utilizing Color and Shading: Color and shading techniques can be used to draw attention to specific design elements and improve overall visual attractiveness.

Key Differences between Utility and Design Patent Drawings:

Focus and Scope:

Utility patent drawings emphasize utility and demonstrate the structure and operation of the invention. The visual appearance and aesthetic characteristics of the invention are the focus of design patent drawings.

Protection and Enforcement:

Utility patents provide broader protection by safeguarding the invention’s practical qualities, whereas design patents defend the unique visual look. Utility patent enforcement often entails discovering infringement of functional features, whereas design patent enforcement focuses on replicating the design’s decorative qualities.

Design vs. Functionality:

Utility patents cover inventions that are useful and functional. Design patents, on the other hand, are primarily concerned with the non-functional aesthetic features and ornamental design of an invention.

Duration and Cost:

Utility patents have a longer life cycle, extending up to 20 years from the date of filing. Design patents, on the other hand, are only valid for up to 15 years. Obtaining and maintaining utility patents is typically more expensive than design patents.

How to Create Utility Patent Drawings:

To create effective utility patent drawings, follow these steps:

Hire a Professional Illustrator: Using an experienced illustrator with patent drawing ability offers precise and professional illustrations.

Detailed and Accurate Representation: Provide precise measurements, comments, and cross-references to precisely portray the components and functions of the invention.

Utilizing Computer-Aided Design (CAD) Software: Create consistent and high-quality drawings that meet patent office criteria using CAD software.

Labeling and Numbering: Label and number each component clearly, ensuring clarity and easy of comprehension for patent examiners.

Tips for Preparing Design Patent Drawings:

Consider the following tips while preparing design patent drawings:

Originality and Ornamental Nature: Highlight the distinct visual and ornamental elements that distinguish your design from others.

Multiple Views and Perspectives:Display numerous viewpoints and perspectives of the design, emphasizing its many visual aspects.

Neatness and Clarity: Make sure the designs are nice, clean, and clutter-free so that people can understand the design.

Utilizing Color and Shading: Color and shading techniques can be used to increase aesthetic appeal and highlight specific design characteristics.

Understanding the Patent Process for Inventions:

The patent process involves several steps, including:

Patent Search and Prior Art: Conduct extensive research to guarantee that your innovation is unique and does not violate any existing patents or previous art.

Drafting a Patent Application: Prepare a detailed patent application that details your innovation and contains all required illustrations and claims.

Filing and Examination: Submit the patent application to the appropriate patent office, which will analyze the application for legal conformity.

Patent Issuance: If the patent office judges that the invention fits the conditions, a utility or design patent will be issued.

Importance of Professional Patent Illustrations:

Professional patent illustrations offer numerous benefits:

Clear Communication of Invention: Illustrations of excellent caliber help in communicating the construction, purpose, and aesthetics of the invention to patent officers in an unmistakable manner.

Meeting Patent Office Standards: Drawings completed by a professional make sure the patent office standards are met, which decreases the possibility of the application being denied or challenged.

Strengthening Patent Claims: The illustrations in the patent can demonstrate the invention’s exclusive elements and characteristics, which enhances the credibility of the claims.

Enhancing Licensing and Enforcement: Illustrations of a professional standard can aid in making the invention more attractive to potential buyers, help to secure licensing deals, and give the patent holder the legal backing they need to protect their rights against any potential infringers.

Inventors can improve their chances of acquiring patents for their ideas by understanding the distinctions between utility and design patent drawings and by following the best practices indicated above.

Remember that professional counsel and skill in patent law may be required to efficiently navigate the complexities of the patent process.

Take the first step towards protecting your intellectual property by mastering the art of patent drawings. Click here to explore the world of utility patent vs. design patent drawings at The Patent Experts: www.thepatentexperts.com.

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nationallawreview · 2 years

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Don’t Miss the Easy Jumps! Design Patents, An Often-Overlooked Form of IP Protection for the Equine Industry

Intellectual property (IP) law allows individuals, in certain circumstances, to protect “creations of the mind,” providing the owner with exclusive ownership and the right to monetize in various ways, depending on the type of IP at issue. When considering protection for IP in the equine industry, trademarks, copyrights, and rights of publicity most immediately come to mind. But there is another…

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#business #design #design patents #equine industry #horses #Intellectual property #IP Law #IP protection #ip protection law #legal #Litigation

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bakedbananners · 21 days

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tough crowd

#just pretend that murderbot is ok with eye contact as long as its three #i like using different fonts for different constructs and bots and humans its fun #amena design subject to change patent pending etc etc #murderbot #the murderbot diaries #tmbd #secunit #amena #my art

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vladimir777sk · 1 month

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Удобное кресло-трансформер 👍

Это кресло разработано с учетом обеспечения максимального комфорта для пользователей. Мне понравилось 100% 🙄

* Comfortable transformer chair This chair is designed to ensure maximum comfort for users.

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todaysdocument · 4 months

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748626 - Game Boards - Lizzie Magie

Record Group 241: Records of the Patent and Trademark OfficeSeries: Selected Patent Files

This file unit includes specifications, drawings, petitions, and amendments for the patent for a game board and pieces for "The landlord's game", a game of chance.

This patent drawing shows a square-shaped game board. The sides are divided into properties that can be bought or rented. There are also places showing railroads and taxes. The game would eventually evolve into Monopoly. All the papers from this patent and a full transcription are available at the link.

#archivesgov #1904 #1900's #monopoly #board games #board game design #patents #january 5

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localpizza-bot · 9 months

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Learning to draw him just to annoy that one friend from the debate post >:)

hell nah chemicals in the water denting the wildlife

#Blah blah scribbles from me #With the patented terrible camera quality and weird lighting issues #Boniapiateet #TMNT #Mutant Mayhem #uh so I still know like viltch about this franchise overall lol but I do like to look at older designs when drawing characters #So uh that’s why some things are changed #Anyway #am I supposed to tag the name with the series title #Uhhhh idk tagging hard lol bye

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magicky-hands · 2 years

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More dad activites

#the lore for this is that murky went out and just. dunked her hair in a puddle of mud and put sticks in it to be like the herb brides #pathologic #artemy burakh #murky burakh #mishka burakh #getting it out takes a whole bottle of soap and oh god the clumps and bugs are everywhere #the living room was flooded #sticky slipped on the soapy floor #also the first patented rubber duckies are so funny they unlock emotions in me #look up eleanor shannahans design for a laugh

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design-law · 1 year

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Does this chair infringe this design patent? That’s one of the claims in this recently-filed complaint.

#Summer Classics #Costco #chairs #furniture #design patents #litigation

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snakesinsocks2005 · 2 years

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My contender for the hilarious concept of sexyman descendents, Maddie Magenta. She is somehow affiliated with the man behind the slaughter, your guess as to how. The result of a secret affair? A Crazed fangirl?

No matter, she's here and you will have a hard time ignoring her.

Her most defining character is 'theatre kid loser'

Sexyman descendants was made by @sparkerinparadise

#had fun with this #you know i had too #as a patented fnaf centric blog #yes william afton already has kids thats why its funny #character design #my art #oc tag #sexyman descendants

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liquidstar · 9 months

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WOW I FINALLY FINISHED THIS SET. There were a lot of things I wanted to get right for them so I took some extra time but hopefully it was worth it! The guild for this set is Cobalt Heart- a guild with focus on maritime missions, lead by (of course) guildmaster Neptune. There was no other planet I could've picked for his namesake lol. They're the guild I jokingly call the most jockish, but some moreso than others. I really do hope I did all the characters justice, but if you wanna know more about the individual members, it's under the cut as usual!

Name: Neptune

Name Origin: The planet named for the god of the ocean

Pronouns: He/him

Age: 52

Guild rank: Guildmaster

Weapon: Trident

Ethos (Power): Ocean wave (Control over water- stronger with sea water)

Flaw power is based on: Originally based on his overly relaxed go-with-the-flow nature, but since becoming a father and guildmaster he's matured, and his power grew from simple wave control to more powerful control over the ocean's water. Waves aren't always peaceful, but he's become someone who understands their power and the responsibility needed for it.

Notes: If it's unclear, the marks on his chest are meant to be top surgery tattoos, but in cool wave shapes!

Name: Triton

Name Origin: Neptune's moon, aptly named for his son

Pronouns: He/they

Age: 24

Guild rank: 4 star

Weapon: Twin sai

Ethos (Power): Ocean breath (Underwater breathing as well as other aquatic adaptions)

Flaw power is based on: His ardent wanderlust, especially in regards to the ocean. They literally cannot leave it alone despite any possible better reasoning, which is when it becomes a problem.

Notes: Was his other parent a mermaid or did they just do the fish thing on their own? The world may never know.

Name: Otrera

Name Origin: A trojan asteroid named after the queen of the Amazons

Pronouns: She/her

Age: 32

Guild rank: 5 star

Weapon: Brass knickles

Ethos (Power): Preflexes (Hightened reflexes)

Flaw power is based on: Her overly-guarded and cagey nature.

Notes: But her brass knuckles are pink so its quirky when she knocks your teeth out.

Name: Naos

Name Origin: A star whose name means "ship"

Pronouns: He/him

Age: 21

Guild rank: 3 star

Weapon: Modified crutches

Ethos (Power): Helm (He can change the direction of inanimate objects. It's not limited to projectiles, he can change the direction of objects while they're in someone's hand too.)

Flaw power is based on: His avoidant tenancies, especially where more serious responsibility is concerned.

Notes: Honestly? Joined the guild to boost his playboy status.

Name: Aitne

Name Origin: One of Jupiter's moons, named after the personification of Mount Etna, a stratovolcano

Pronouns: They/them

Age: 27

Guild rank: 4 star

Weapon: Spiked gauntlets and armor

Ethos (Power): Molten Core (Lava manipulation)

Flaw power is based on: Their brash and destructive nature.

Notes: Likes all their food to be charred.

Name: Ariel

Name Origin: A moon or Uranus, named after an air spirit!

Pronouns: She/her

Age: 16

Guild rank: 2 star

Weapon: Baton

Ethos (Power): Harmony (Perfect balance on anything)

Flaw power is based on: Her own difficulty maintaining emotional balance under stress

Notes: She's a gymnast! And even though I didn't make the character named "Ariel" a mermaid, you can still see a scale pattern in her leotard!

Name: Maru

Name Origin: A white dwarf whose name means "Sky." It's orbited by the planet Ahra.

Pronouns: She/her

Age: 18

Guild rank: 3 star

Weapon: Claymore sword

Ethos (Power): Sky walking (She is capable of interacting with air as if it were a tangible object, creating leverage for herself to walk and balance on as if it were solid)

Flaw power is based on: Her somewhat vain tendency to place herself above others

Notes: Complete and utterly confident she's the cooler twin

Name: Ahra

Name Origin: A exoplanet whose name means "Ocean." It orbits the star Maru.

Pronouns: She/her

Age: 18

Guild rank: 3 star

Weapon: Claymore sword

Ethos (Power): Wave riding (Creation and control of tidal waves to ride on, as if she was surfing them with no board. But she does have to be on them.)

Flaw power is based on: Her arrogance and recklessness

Notes: Completely and utterly convinced she's the cooler twin.

Name: Pipoltr/Pip

Name Origin: A star named for "a bright and beautiful butterfly."

Pronouns: Whatever really?

Age: 8

Guild rank: 1 star

Weapon: Giant lollipop

Ethos (Power): None yet!

Flaw power is based on: N/A. This doesn't mean they're flawless, but until their power develops they're really just here to go on fun little adventures.

Notes: This child hangs around with sailors all day long. The words they know....

#finn's ocs #finn's art #oc references #FINALLY POSTING THIS SET #there was a bit of a delay bc i wanted to make sure i got the crutches w naos right #i ended up not making just the crutches a weapon but like. with modifications based on a real self defense item i found #but slightly different for both fantasy reasons and also i think its patented lol #his pose is also based on a real self defense w crutches video that my friend sent me (hiiii thank you for that once more btw <3)#so like hes very much in motion here. thats not how he usually stands w the crutches lol he usually like. uses them as crutches lol #the little trigger on them is what releases and returns the blade in them btw #also as for the rest of the group! i think neptune is absolutely the most fitting of his namesake out of all the guildmasters #i mean they all have aspects of it but he's fully embraced it. despite what i said abt him growing into responsibility and all #hes still such a chill nice guy. just in general. it would take a lot to get him angry (and if you did the sea is NOT peaceful!)#and in a lot of ways triton is like how he was when he was younger. responsibilities dont matter he needs to go to the challengers deep NOW #also the reason i picked twin sai to be his weapon is bc i didnt wanna do a trident twice. even tho like thats kind of the typical motif #but sai are like. also a 3 pronged weapon. so i felt it kept the energy. but smaller and 2 of them #omg speaking of weapons i completely accidentally added a trans flag to ariel's baton design lol. but i left it in why not #i had such a hard time w her colors bc i wanted her to be flashy but also to make the leotard mermaid esque #also for it to not be too revealing. like leda (from the lunar flare set) can have an exposing leotard tutu sure but shes an adult #and i wanted to give ariel more of like an 80s home gym workouts vibe. with the legwarmers and scrunchies lol #and the twins!!! i wanted to make them samey but differeny. in a way i havent done w matching outfits before #bc the actual shapes of the clothes are very different but the colors totally match!#plus the twins are fraternal. i feel like thats obvious what w their different hair colors but there are more subtle things #like slightly different eyes. the height and weight differences arent part of that tho bc that can happen to any twins even identical #otrera i also had a lot of fun with. especially the blonde hair in an emo bang with like a pink sporty outfit #the crown logo references her namesake being a queen too!#she really was fun tho bc shes just no nonsense trusts nothing but her gut. and shes meant to be like an MMA type #aitne was also super fun but a bit tricky to make it clear that their eye is half lidded from the burns and not just like a drawing mistake #but i think i made it clear! its important bc their vision is also impaired on that side #and the burns themselves were most likely an accident on their end. remember they're brash and destructive. even to themself!

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