Hanfu Accessories 👑
Accessories
Miansha/Mianlian (face veil)
Yingluo
Xiangquan
Maoling
Doupeng (cloak)
Qiuyi
Pibo (shawl)
Panbo (string to tie the sleeves back)
Youzhisan (oil paper umbrella)
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Sleeves
Water Sleeves
Huwan (arm guards)
Bangshoudai (hand wraps)
Yexiu
Pipaxiu (pipa-shaped sleeves)
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Waist Accessories
Weichang
Weifu
Zaju
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Yaopei (Waist Ornaments)
Jinbu
Hebao
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Fans
Tuanshan (stiff round fan)
Bianmian (stiff semi-circle fan)
Zheshan (folding fan)
Yaoshan
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Hats
Mili
Weimao (veiled hat)
Humao
Douli
Tiger Hat
Futou
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Hair Accessories
Guan (crown)
Xiaoguan (topknot crown)
Lianhua Guan (lotus crown for taoist priests)
Furongguan (lotus crown for women)
Mianguan (emperor’s headdress/crown)
Zanhua
Chanhua
Ronghua
Juanhua
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hello ! i was wondering if there's specific hanfus for winter ? i've tried finding some for mens but idk if they exists ? thank you !!
Hi, thanks for the question! Yes, there are lots of hanfu specifically for winter. There are more options for women, but options for men exist as well! (x)
During winter, ancient Chinese generally wore their usual clothing items, just with warmer/thicker materials and more layering. I have a post here on winter hanfu and accessories, and my winter wear tag has more examples and links. The hanfu resource website Newhanfu also has many informative articles in its “winter hanfu” category. Below - Ming dynasty-style winter hanfu & tiger hats (x):
In particular, Ming-style hanfu is well-suited for winter, as it tends to be thicker & provides more coverage (due to the climate being colder during the Ming). Below - 1st row: Ming-style ao, 2nd row: Ming-style dahu (left) & bijia (right) for fall/winter, all from Shuyuci/漱玉词:
One of the most popular winter hanfu items for men is the qiuyi/裘衣 (“fur clothing”), a fur-lined long coat historically worn to keep warm in winter. Below - 1) qiuyi with Tang-style yuanlingpao (x) (note: this is also the style in the first photo of this post), 2) qiuyi with Ming-style tieli (x):
As with most hanfu styles, nowadays women can wear qiuyi too, as seen below - paired w/Ming-style hanfu - from Bansheng Luoshang/半生罗裳:
Another item for men traditionally worn for warmth is the changyi/氅衣, also known as hechang/鹤氅 or dachang/大氅. This is basically a long, large-sleeve coat with parallel-collars and ties in the front. Newhanfu has an in-depth article on it here. Below - 1st row: blue winter changyi from Dongting Hanfeng/洞庭漢風, 2nd & 3rd rows: winter changyi worn w/daopao from Jingshui Tongguang/镜水桐光:
And then there’s the doupeng/斗篷 (cloak). There’s some debate on whether the doupeng can be considered hanfu depending on it’s structure, but regardless it’s extremely popular and is an ubiquitous part of the modern hanfu wardrobe (x):
For specific hanfu shops, in addition to the brands mentioned above, you can also check out my hanfu shop rec list here. Several shops on the list have options for men and women’s winter hanfu.
Hope this helps, and if anyone has more info/recs please share!
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A Chinese Idiom Inspired Hanfu Set, consisting of:
Doupeng 斗篷
Cross-collar shirts
Pleated qun 百迭裙
-To be worn waist-level as a yichang 衣裳
-To be worn chest-level as a qiyao ruqun 齐胸襦裙
Link to full collection
Design thoughts below the cut:
This set takes inspiration from the idiom of 鲤鱼跳龙门,which translates as “carps jumping through the dragon’s gate." It references the Chinese myth of carps swimming up a waterfall in order to transform into dragons, and when used as an idiom, it describes making a big advancement in one’s life.
I've always found this tale to be inspiring. The myth's use of literal transformation to describe a transition has always stuck with me, especially considering how dragons are considered to be masculine. As such, I've sort of adopted this idiom as a metaphor for my own transition. It’s the namesake of this whole collection (龙门 LONGMEN meaning "dragon's gate") so I thought it’d be only natural to design a set based off the idiom as well!
In contrast to the dragon and phoenix set I presented earlier, this set isn’t two different hanfu sets paired together. Rather they are the same pieces of hanfu just styled and worn in a different way. Albeit with the addition of a doupeng cloak for the dragon! I felt that this would serve as a poetic representation that when someone transitions, they as a person are remaining the same person they've been, just with a presentation that fits them better as they grow :)
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Vermilion Bird Ch. 5 Cut Scene
The Emperor walked in the halls with Greed following him like a lost puppy, Ling chuckled, amused at the scene. They just visited the Imperial Tailor to get Greed's measures, and he must confess, he never thought that from all the clothes in the catalog, the one Greed would like was a yuanlingpao. Just in case Ling ordered a doupeng too, because soon it'll be winter.
"Say, why all of my servants are male while you're surrounded by women?" He sounded annoyed, Ling stopped on his tracks and this prompted Greed to do the same.
"Two reasons." He faced Greed, his seriousness only made him raise an eyebrow, why is this guy so nonchalant? He didn't expected Greed to be so chill, usually when the homunculus complained to him in the past he was so temperamental and self-centered. "One," he raised a finger. "I don't want the emergence of fiftieth first clan of Xing. And two," he raised another one. "That's none of your business." Greed made a mock-hurt gesture and walked past him, patting the emperor's head on the way.
"Who's to say I didn't fuck one of your maid servants?" Ling flinched, now that he pointed it out it makes sense
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This one was cut because I didn’t know how to merge this scene seamlessly with Ling thinking that dining alone with Greed looked like a date (even though it wasn’t)
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WORLD BUILDING : historical fashion
as my rendition of m.ulan is w.uxia / x.ainxia inspired , her clothing is all over the place . these genres do not typically have specific dynasties for timelines && are usually , vaguely , set during imperial china [ ... ] thus letting them be unbound by the rules of any particular time period . they follow more clothing for the aesthetic than historical accuracy . here , m.ulan is vaguely from somewhere between the q.in && t.ang dynasties , possibly overflowing into the song aesthetic wise . most of the fashion listed here lands somewhere in the first time frame . example images are linked but are not exactly historically accurate due to inspired g.enres preferring aesthetic over historical accuracy .
FEMALE CLOTHING
typically , mulan leans towards more simple fashion for everyday wear although it might not seem that way . primarily , the colors she wears are of more feminine shades : softer pinks in her youth to shades of oranges , blues , greys && whites .
hanfu :
ruqun : the most basic type of hanfu consisting of a top ( ru ) && a wrap around skirt ( qun ) . she does not have a preference over narrow or wide sleeves outside of what she plans on doing that day && is more often seen in parallel or crossed collar qiyao ruqun ----- ruqun that are waist high ----- over qixong ruqun ----- chest high ruqun but it depends on her mood .
shenyi : rarely worn , though when she does , she prefers zhiju ----- straight hemmed shenyi
weichang : short outer skirts worn as an accessory over long skirts .
POST ARMY
post army , mulans wardrobe grows . she spent many years as a man && continues to utilize more traditionally masculine pieces despite people now knowing that she's a woman . they're pieces she's comfortable with as well as pieces that make sense given her new life ----- instead of being content to stay at home like most women are && she never quite was [ ... ] she travels , she teaches martial arts [ ... ] primarily to women && young girls . these pieces are , typically , tailored to better fit her slimmer form .
male pieces : dachang ( open front robes ) , shuhe ( tops ) , duanda ( trousers ) , yuanglingpao ( round collar robe ) , xue ( boots traditionally worn by men ) , �� quan ( mens hair ornaments )
ACCESSORIES
HAIR ORNAMENTS
zan hua : umbrella term for flower hair ornaments . ones most utilized by mulan are [ ... ] : zhi hua ( ones made of paper or fabric ) , juan hua ( silk flowers ) , chan hua ( fine silk wrapped around a wire base ) as well as the occasional fresh flowers for special occasions
zan : basic && most common hair pins , typically decorated on the end [ ... ] one pronged . mulan prefers one with minimalist flower or beaded designs , saving more elaborate designs for special occasions such as birthdays or weddings .
chai : similar to zan but with two prongs instead of one .
dian : small hair ornament typically shaped like a flower
ji : a simple hairpin , usually made of bone , wood or jade . mulan typically favors bone or jade && comes to fashion them into makeshift weapons after her time in the army .
OUTER WEAR
robes : daxiushan ( large sleeved robes )
banbi : short sleeve jacket , worn tucked into the skirt or loose
beizi : long sleeved jacket
doupeng : cloak
other : pibo ( long , thin scarves )
ETC
yaopei : umbrella term for waist ornaments . mulan will sometimes wear jinbu , which are initially used to hold the skirt down && is seen as a symbol of virtue && rank for both men && women
weimao : a veiled , woven straw hat .
miansha : a veil worn over the bottom half of the face . while mianlian , beaded veils , are popular , mulan typically sticks to fabric ones while traveling or going out without wanting to be recognized .
bangshoudai : strings tied around the wrist [ ... ] a simplified form of huwan wrist guards . designed to keep sleeves out of the way as well as protect the hands && arms , mulan started wearing them prior to the army while practicing martial arts && continues them both during && after her time as a soldier .
MAKEUP
like most ranking women , mulan wears makeup once she reaches the age to do so . for more information on huadian , click here
normal makeup : rice powder , rouge on her cheeks , light lip coloring , simple huadian , simple eyebrows
special occasion makeup : rice or lead powder , rouge , red or red gold lips painted into patterns , elaborate huadian , heavier eyebrows
lip makeup : for every day makeup , mulan favors pink or light red lips ----- primarily depending on her age . after her time in the army , pink lips seem too childish so she sticks more towards red . for a more special / formal look , she likes more vibrant reds or reds mixed with gold powder . she stays away from darker reds .
drawing the lips into shapes is popular . she favors cherry && flower petal lips though other shapes can also be featured .
HAIR
mulan typically favors half-up , half-down hairstyles in more casual settings [ ... ] read : days where she doesn't have much if anything expected of her . this typically includes a bun or simple braids .
childhood : prior to her ji li ( female coming of age ceremony at fifteen ) , mulan typically wore double bun / loop hairstyles as was common for young girls . most often , it was the shuang pi ji style
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