Maison Margiela by John Galliano, Fall 2022 Couture
Alexis Roche - Art Director
Olivier Rizzo - Fashion Editor/Stylist
Eugene Souleiman - Hair Stylist
Pat McGrath - Makeup Artist
Jess Hallett - Casting Director
Stephen Jones - Milliner
Couture Week Days 1 & 2 Thoughts
Some of these aren’t actually “couture” and are just shows that have happened during couture week but I don’t really care tbh.
Schiaparelli- Good, but needs to let up on the some of the details I feel are overdone at this point. Not as good as last season.
Iris van Herpen- Very cool as per usual, but I honestly don’t know if I could tell this collection apart from any previous collections.
Georges Hobeika- Pretty extreme in terms of some very good and very bad looks. I’m biased because I love sparkly dresses, a lot of the concepts are things he’s done before
Dior- bland is genuinely the only word that comes to mind. It would have even been boring for rtw. There’s so much more they could have done with the ukrainian folklore/folk art/tree of life theme, and they failed. The only “good” looks were still boring and exact replicas of things maria grazia has done at dior and valentino. The details and embroidery are fantastic, but they get lost in the blandness of the clothes and the credit there goes to the artisans, not the designer
Rahul Mishra- way more interesting take on the tree of life theme than dior. I loved this.
Giambattista Valli-It’s amazing he could have that many looks and literally nothing good. It wasn’t even just repetitive like some of his previous collections have been, it was just not good.
Chanel- I have come to the conclusion I just am not a fan of chanel. They’ve rehashed the same designs so many times they all blend together for me, and I don’t love any of them.
Alexis Mabille- it would have been fine for a rtw collection, but this is not couture.
Stephane Rolland- Uglier versions of the same designs he always does
Julien Fournie- Only taken a quick look, but so far, love the drama. They always put on a true show
Alexandre Vauthier- So boring I had to look it up again even though I’ve already seen it because I couldn’t remember a single thing
Armani Prive- Same designs they always do, in the same color palette. Kind of feels dated, and of course there were some nice gowns but to only find maybe 10 decent things out of a 90+ look collection is a pretty bad ratio. But this is always the case for me with armani
Tony Ward- I can hear Tim Gunn saying to edit. This is probably one of the least cohesive collections I’ve seen.
Overall I’m disappointed so far. It feels like a lot of innovation and drama has been lost in couture in general. These shows don’t have the artistry couture shows used to have, they barely have the content for a rtw show. In the past you were always excited for what you were going to see and never really knew what to expect. The last few years you always know exactly what you’re going to see before the show even starts. I don’t know how many times I can essentially watch the same runway show. Designers need to stop resting on their laurels and the cache of their brand and actually put out some interesting work.