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#hanfu recommendations
ziseviolet · 4 months
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Thank you so much for gathering this information, you are providing a valuable resource for hanfu enthusiasts! I love the sumptuous cuts and fabrics, but as someone often involved in physical labor, it isn't realistic for me. Are there any examples of clothing that might be worn by country folk who have to work in the fields and tend animals?
Hi! Thanks for the question, and sorry for taking ages to reply! (image via)
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Yes, there is hanfu suitable for country folk who have to work in the fields and tend animals. Historically, such people would have worn a type of unisex hanfu called 裋褐/shuhe. Shuhe goes by a few other names, including 短打/duanda, 短褐/duanhe, and 竖褐/shuhe. They all refer to a two-piece set of attire composed of a cross-collar top that extends to the knees, coupled with tied trousers. Both pieces were typically made out of coarse cloth. It is the basis of almost all underclothing, usually the clothing worn under armor, and the casual outfit of commoners and laborers (x). This outfit was generally worn by people doing manual labor, such as farm work, and by martial artists (x).
I wrote about shuhe in my post on casual/adventurer-type hanfu here. For more information on shuhe, I recommend checking out the following links:
Wikipedia article on 衫裤/shanku
Patterns for shuhe-making
Shuhe-making tutorial
A few images of shuhe in historical art & modern day (1, 2, 3, 4):
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Shuhe understandably isn't as popular as other "fancier" hanfu styles, but there are still some available on Taobao, including the following:
Farmer-style shuhe for spring & autumn from 華夏节奏 (x):
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2. Ming-style ramie shuhe from 淮边筱竹 (x):
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3. Tailor-made Ming-style shuhe from 淮边筱竹 (x):
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4. Ming-style quilted cotton winter shuhe from 淮边筱竹 (x):
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For more references, please see my shuhe and commoners hanfu tags.
If anyone has more info/recs, please share! ^^
Hope this helps!
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chinesehanfu · 2 months
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[Hanfu · 漢服]Historical Chinese Style illustration Artist @御茶菓子XINYUE
She is one of my favorite illustrator. She draws inspiration from Chinese cultural relics and history in the creation of characters, and her use of colors is also amazing. Highly recommend her works to everyone.
If u like her work, please follow her on Weibo/Instagram
Instagram:https://www.instagram.com/zzxinyue/
Weibo:https://weibo.com/zzxinyue
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sakasakiii · 11 months
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Thank the Valars ur back!!!💖💖💖 But if you need your rest, take them and have time! Remember we'll all support you always no matter what!😇until you post another i will wait patiently..... I am so thankful to you since I read the silm after i saw all ur amazing works.
Ps. I made this tumblr account to send❤❤❤❤to u and ur works. People like u always make my day! I wish I can draw and make headcannons like u! 😢 I think ill have to stop since the ps shhouldnt be longer than the tezt above(idk what they call that... I am EFL so i think im forgivable😎)
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hiiiii!!! thank you for all your encouraging words and for taking the time to send in such kind messages ahhhh 🥺 im really honoured you like the stuff i put out! i have a lot of fun drawing them, and learning other people enjoy it too really gives motivation to all my doodles 🙇‍♀️ also you read the silm after finding my work?? 😭💖 that's very high praise but u are far too kind! the tolkien community here on tumblr is such a wonderful place with so many talented creators and amazing content, so i hope you continue to explore and enjoy your time!!!
i must send this back to you, because people like you make my day as well ❤❤❤ And don't give up!!! anyone can draw and make headcanons so long as they have an idea of what they wanna do-- that's the fun and freedom of fanwork, isn't it! i hope one day to see you putting your stuff out there as well... ehehee... 🥳
i'm also very happy you like the Asian-themed clothes in my artwork! i really do enjoy studying historical and traditional clothes, and i hope to keep incorporating them into my designs over time. since you asked for makalaure, here is a little doodle of him and maedhros in hanbok :DDD
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i wanted to practice studying some more traditional styles, so i did a few other sketches of Maglor in various styles of historical East Asian styles + idril, nerdanel, and aredhel to model some female clothes hehe....
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thanks again for your wonderful support bc it's really made my day, and hey!!! im super guilty of rambling too much in all my posts so honestly, write as much as you want in the P.S.s because word limits are a goofy concept 😎 all the best with ur EFL studies friend-- u can do it!!! fighting!!!! 💪 and have a wonderful rest of your day!
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mioamoremalena · 10 months
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mistmane wippy from my break, i might actually work on this woman on stream
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zihua-art · 8 months
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FOLLOW and REBLOG for more 🦋
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miyuecakes · 1 month
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@ hanfu blogs can i get some ideas on masculine island core hanfu because all of the summer fits still look rly stuffy lmao
being hainanese and trying to design characters based on that home province is a struggle
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kingdomvel · 1 year
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I love you songs that mix traditional and modern sounds. I love you clothes that take inspiration from traditional elements. I love you things that keep the cultural identity but don't get stuck and let themselves be influenced by the change of times.
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foxyyaoguai · 2 months
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💫 Announcement: New MDZS/The Untamed Subreddit 💫
I'm excited to announce that I took over as the mod of the r/mdzs subreddit! I plan to make it into an alternative for r/MoDaoZuShi, whose mods aren't active anymore.
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About this community This is a community for the danmei novel "Grandmaster of Demonic Cultivation". Discussions about the novel and all adaptations, including The Untamed, the donghua, the audio dramas, the manhua, the manga, etc. are all welcome.
I have the following vision for this subreddit:
Give newcomers an easy entry into the MDZS fandom through the subreddit's wiki.
Provide links to fandom events, discords, fanfic references, and more. The MDZS fandom is huge and it's easy to lose track!
Create a safe environment for fans to share and discuss without fear of discourse or harassment.
Create threads where we can recommend and search for MDZS fanfiction. Here is a link to the first Fanfiction Mega Thread.
Weekly or Monthly discussion posts, based on activity and interest.
I have gathered a lot of resources throughout my time in the MXTX/MDZS fandom which I want to share with all of you. All collections are a WIP and you're welcome to add more!
Overview of MDZS, MXTX, and danmei Discord Servers
List of MXTX/MDZS Event Pages The list includes links to danmei meetups, big bangs, exchanges, ship weeks, prompt fests, event calendars, zines, and more.
Resources for fanfiction authors This list includes links to chapter and episode summaries, location guides, hanfu guides, language guides, speech pattern analysis, and more.
Places to buy Danmei and MDZS Merch in Tokyo, Japan
Links to the explicit manhua panels in English and Chinese
What makes this subreddit different than the MoDaoZuShi subreddit?
I’m aware that the MoDaoZuShi subreddit exists and I used to be active there. Unfortunately, the moderation team has been inactive for a long time. I applied as a mod and sent a message to the moderators, hoping that I could improve things, but never received a reply, which is why I requested to take over as the moderator of this subreddit. I hope r/mdzs can become a safe alternative for fans of MDZS with an up-to-date wiki page and active moderation.
Please help this subreddit grow by sharing this announcement. I hope to see you in r/mdzs! :)
Let me know if you have any questions or suggestions! You can leave a comment here or reach me through Modmail on reddit.
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artist-ellen · 6 months
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I just wanna say that I love all your character redesigns, they're all very beautiful! I also wanna ask if you have any recommendations of sites or books for researching historical fashion.
Thank you so much! I’ve had a lot of fun over the years <3
Historical fashion is a very big amorphous topic so take all of my recommendations with their usual grain of salt and keep in mind that the most important of things are primary sources and authorial context. For example: the portrait of a Queen is generally going to be the beautified propaganda version of the day, but still a primary-ish source of her fashion. Channel your inner historian and examine your sources critically. Who recorded this history? Why?
Photographs are stellar. While there were “photoshop” tricks those usually don’t change the clothing. Extant garments? Bog bodies? Gold mines. So never be afraid to dig into clothing that has been preserved or displayed.
I guess what I’m trying to say is that what kind of fashion and when it happened is going to set the parameters for the majority of your research. It’s too big a topic to have an easy answer, tragic I know. However there are communities upon communities online that specialize in certain historical moments, countries, styles, art, etc, etc, etc.
If you want a really great general overview by decade of Western/European fashion I recommend the website Fashion History Timeline. They don’t have a lot in their Medieval or ancient sections but 14th century to 21st century is a LOT of ground to cover while still being an easy to navigate website.
If you want even more Renaissance to vintage clothing research to the point where you could make or purchase those items yourself there is American Duchess.
And finally, honestly, someone has probably made a YouTube video about it. Double check their research and sources but if you want a plain speech audible research paper with visual aides… it’s kind of the place to be. University lecturers have slide videos up about fashion, the historical “cosplayers” do a ton of research and trial and error construction, history buffs will tell you all about it. There are so many talented people out there, from ‘Not Your Momma’s History’, ‘Off the Great Wall’, ‘Mochi Hanfu’, ‘Dandy Wellington’, ‘Bernadette Banner’, ‘Priorattire’, ‘Pinsent Tailoring’, Mina Le and so so so many more!
And I think that’s everything for now? Let me know if you have more questions
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kaguyass-houraisan · 10 days
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got any dc character headcanons? specifically for the s2 cast but any work fine!!
Let's see... I don't have a brain that thinks a lot outside of her own ocs because I have a brain the size of a walnut so...
James: in a greeting he was speaking perfect Spanish and he's Brazilian and they speak Portuguese so I would like to think at least one of his parents is Mexican or he has lived there bc he also claims he loves Mexico so yes this is true and real
He also makes the cliche tiktok youtuber videos and makes Aiden do challenges and mukbangs w him and he can handle his spice but Aiden can NOT... I also like to think he takes longer to get ready in the morning just because he admires himself in the mirror for a bit. But it's no biggie bc Aiden spends 5 mins a day admiring James in return
Riya: honestly I Hate how people use the DC pride pic to say everyone else missing is straight like what if they were in traffic and missed ?? Like personally I just like to think Riya has never explored her sexuality at all and is not really aware of her interest in women (maybe someone here likes Riya x Grett just a little) so she doesn't say or claim anything really
But I do think she'd also do fashion campaigns. Like beautiful woman on a magazine cover. Ik she'd look so good w editorial makeup and fashion on..
Aiden: he is eastern european coded to me... not sure what country but he and Tom (season 1) are in that group to me.. also he calls James things like "snookums" "snuggle bun" and most importantly his "beautiful god of beauty" period 😌
Hunter: he does drag or something like that, his name would be something like June Thanasia (euthanasia) or The Bride.. or I was also recommended the name Bloody Mary like some kind of Lady Gaga or horror themed one
You will see an upcoming post of how I imagine one of his drag looks to be and I had a previous post of him in a wedding gown for this very reason, I think he likes the corsets and lots of jewelry and beads !
Ally: she likes to cosplay video game couples or ships and just not tell Tess that it's gay as hell like. She will dress up as Link and make Tess be Ganon to fulfill Ganlink or Ally as Zelda and Tess as Midna to fulfill Midzel... I also think she has posters of female video game characters who gave her the Bi Awakening...
Lake: absolutely is secretly fashion obsessed and has very cutesy themed outfits hidden around with matching flowers to put in her hair... I really think she'd look like a human flower in fashion aesthetics
As for Season 1.
Miriam: doesn't know what an air fryer is and she doesn't want to know either get it OUT of her face and I also really want to believe if Jake doesn't live with her she will have him do so after all stars so they can spend her final years together making memories and doing mundane things like shopping cooking and wandering around at 3 am for no reason
Fiore: I refuse to believe she doesn't treat a random ass stuffed animal better than real people, I guarantee she has at least ONE and it's def a unicorn like bye or cat like on her pjs byeeeee
Ellie: She had an emo phase and I know she had one bang over her eye and wore ties over everything and had a studded belt and such.. I know her power
Jake: that man is Chinese to me we've seen how I draw him this is hc I will DIE ON. I don't care whether he's Wasian or not, what matters is he really wants to wear more hanfu but is shy about it... but I like to think he loves womens Tang or Qing dynasty hanfu the most...
Also bc onc is SO disrespectful to him (I'm dramatic) I know they'd never admit he can play an instrument he SO gives me the type to have had a band in high school like tell me he isn't giving that energy
Tom: he smells bad, but to tame this he probably smells like your average cheap men's 3 n 1 body wash like think dove or suave or something like that like you can't convince me he isn't sweating balls out here, also he's secretly into fashion and desires to wear all the mini skirts his heart desires
Grett: passion for fashion like LOOK at her outfits ? Wearing heels and running around ? I know she desires so badly to dress more freely and even more showy, but because of how poorly she's been treated she is a bit insecure about her body and how it looks in certain clothes.. but I know she will learn to love herself the way we love her and wear the most stunning outfits and jewelry her heart desires
Ashley: I am going to be crazy w this one but as someone who's family hails from the North of Mexico, I have to think she's somehow Mexican BUT PROBABLY A NO SABO KID.. like I doubt she knows one word of Spanish other than swears but this is MY truth
Drew: he used to look up boys kissing on YouTube
I can't think of other bullshit I thought of but this is what I am thinking do we have thoughts opinions any add ons or disagrees ??
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So, a few days ago, I saw a thread on Tiktok showcasing pictures of people of various races and skintones wearing hanfus and it made me realize how much we still center whiteness when we think of diversity and inclusion?? Because when you really think about it, when these words come to mind, we often think about people of color standing next to a white character and being dressed in similar ways, having « assimilated » into white people’s culture. What we call « casual » clothing is literally something that white people have imposed onto us and they deemed our cultural clothing as « other ». In the majority of « diverse » stories, movies and shows, it’s always people of color living in majority white places and being surrounded by white culture but never like… People of various races and skin tones living in places where the majority of people are not white but also whose ethnicity / culture is different from theirs?
We need media like this! I want to see a story set in China with an East Asian protagonist who has a racially diverse group of friends who may or may not have grown up in China and live surrounded by Chinese culture, partaking in it and appreciating it, you know? Or a story like this but in India or Ethiopia or literally any place that’s not North America or Europe?? So far, I can only think of one story that’s like this and it’s Cinder by Marissa Meyer, where the protagonist is a Chinese girl living in futuristic China, where there’s people of different races coexisting and all sharing the same culture. Whiteness shouldn’t be the default, even when it comes to diversity and inclusion! Also, white people need to see themselves as the « others » too sometimes, like give us white characters growing up in places where the dominant culture is not theirs and they’re the ones who have to adapt / assimilate!
hey thanks for this!!! I really appreciate this ask because part of the reason is that lots of media we're exposed to is made in the usa and europe. like ok cinder is a good example of being set in futuristic china. but like it still has far too many white people for me. I tried getting into the three body problem and that was really good because its set in fictional china and like... there's so few asian/african/indigenous works that get featured in american libraries and get prestigious western awards.
like I'll give you an example most libraries when they have materials in foreign languages a sizable portion is western works by white authors into foreign languages. hp is a good example of this as well as diary of a wimpy kid.
One that features asian locations but starts out in NYC is Warcross by Marie Lu. It's a duology!
followers please recommend works not set in usa/europe!!!
mod ali
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ziseviolet · 4 months
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If you don’t mind me askin, do own and hafus? If not, do you have any favourites?
Hi! Thanks for the question, and sorry for taking ages to reply! (image via)
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Yes, I do own a few hanfu. Here's a list of hanfu & hanfu accessories I currently own:
3 quju + 1 matching dachang
1 jiaoling (cross-collar) ruqun set (jiaoling ru + banbi + qun + pibo)
2 duijin (parallel-collar) shanqun sets (duijin shan + moxiong/dudou + qun + pibo)
1 Song dynasty-style set (beizi + shan + moxiong + baidiequn)
1 mamianqun
1 hanyuansu one-piece dress
1 pair of shoes
A few hairpins & a necklace
My favorite is probably the Song dynasty-style set by 上遥居 that I got from Nüwa Hanfu. It has a lovely color palette of lilac, pink, and white, light & ethereal fabrics, and exquisite floral embroidery & pearl accents. Perfect for spring!:
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I'm also in love with this gorgeous handmade ronghua hairpin I recently got from 卿子手作 (seriously, the photos don't do it justice):
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I'm looking into getting a bag next, since I realized I don't really have a matching bag to wear with my hanfu. In particular, I've been eyeing this cute embroidered swallow-motif crossbody bag from 瞳莞:
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Feel free to share favorite hanfu acquisitions in this post! ^^
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uroboros-if · 11 months
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Hello!! If it's not too much trouble, do you have any sites you'd recommend for fashion/outfit visuals besides Pinterest? I'm trying to cobble together some fashion visuals for the deity of eternity template but I've honestly just been fighting for my life during the past *checks clock*...... four hours 😔✊🏽
Underneath the readmore, I include both:
Fashion resources (links to posts with even more resources, lists, etc.)
How to find better images on Pinterest (Best done after looking at fashion resources!)
Resources
GENERAL resources - I was vehemently looking for a post I reblogged with stock free photos sites, but it's poofed ;; but I remember Pixabay, Unsplash and FreeImages being mentioned! Something very similar to Pinterest, but not copyright free, is WeHeartIt. These sites are very general, though, so it might be hard to find any actual fashion inspo.
European period-accurate fashion - Here is a post about a HUGE site where you can find period-accurate fashion! It also includes a link to an extremely extensive post on period-accurate fashion with resources such as books, blogs, sites, etc. My only gripe is that a majority of these resources are very eurocentric, but the post included a small non-western section for resources.
Uroboros-specific - I made a post all about the fashion of Uroboros here! This is good for finding fashion that is actually within Uroboros, but it is also great in general for finding keywords / search terms for fashion. You find the best resources by knowing the specific time period/fashion you want.
Hanfu - Traditionally worn by the Chinese, but it persists today! This is one of the fashion inspos of Uroboros. The sites suggested in this post will be more modern/inspired than period-accurate, but they are gorgeous! My preference is to use Taobao, a Chinese site for buying hanfu, but currently, I am unable to access it. Hence, this post has a list of non-Taobao shops.
Deel - traditional Mongolian clothing, also one of the inspiration for Uroboros (desert region). Mongulai is a Mongolian shop founded by a Mongolian man!
Once you find all the kinds of dresses you want, though, you might consider looking for them in Pinterest. You only need a general idea of what you want, not extensive knowledge on it--so you might not want to sift through actual books!
For that, equipped with knowing what you want, the best way to get a lot of images quickly is by
Finding things on Pinterest
Finding things on Pinterest is great for general ideas, but the best things you get on Pinterest is by being specific. I already know I want Rococo, Song style hanfu, and some paintings/vibes/aesthetic, so I'll start searching up those things.
Once I find an image I like and save it, Pinterest learns what I like and starts recommending me things through my feed that are even more accurate to what I'm looking for. And of course, clicking on that Pin will suggest other Pins like it, which sends you down the rabbit hole of finding things. This is how I get 90% of the images I have, with only 10% of it being directly searched.
Here's an example of just searching for vibes/aesthetic. I start my search with "ethereal aesthetic", nature aesthetic, and "marble statues aesthetic":
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It took a couple of minutes of scrolling to find these after looking through the search results, since my search terms were relatively general.
After saving only a few images, I went back to the feed and it started suggesting me some pretty similar things:
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However, when you know SPECIFIC things you want (after looking at the resources I suggested), you get even better results just from searching (in addition to having amazing suggestions from your feed).
Here, I looked up "Rococo paintings," "Mediterranean aesthetic," and "Song style hanfu":
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These are pretty specific things, so they find specific things that I want! And after saving them, here is what my feed looked like--chockful of everything I wanted!
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(Tip! If you want board-specific suggestions, aka only finding suggestions from a Pin board you made, go to that board and find "More Ideas"! ✨)
Closing thoughts
I hope this was all useful to you! ♥️♥️ I know it included a little more than you wanted, but I hoped it helped anyway! If you want me to help you look for things, drop me a DM, de-anoned ask (which I can answer privately to you), or even just an anon ask again, and I can help you find some keywords and resources to find. I love doing research!
Thanks for sending an ask 💕💕💕✨
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goneahead · 8 months
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I got tagged by @demeter1111 back when wattieza forests were still a thing. sorry for being a disorganized noodle!
15 questions and 15 mutuals:
Were you named after anyone? When was the last time you cried? Do you have kids? Do you use sarcasm a lot? What's the first thing you notice about people? What's your eye colorScary movies or happy endings? Any special talents? Where were you born? What are your hobbies? Have any pets? What sports do you play/have played? How tall are you? Favorite subiect in school? Dream job?
KNIGHTS! NEW QUESTIONS! (obligatory obscure Monty Python reference)
What famous person, alive or dead, would you want beside you during a zombie apocalypse?
Hanibal of Carthage. He is super smart, a great fighter—and he comes with elephants. Lets be honest, elephants would be super cool in a zombie apocalypse. Especially zombie ones😁
If they made a movie about you, what would your theme song be?
since I’m a nomad, The Great Divide by National Park Radio😉
Which muppet character would you be willing to go on a date with?
Gonzo—as long as Gonzo sets up the date. Cuz you know Gonzo would set up a wild date😆
What is the weirdest thing you have ever eaten?
I was served whale blubber at a party once. Do NOT recommend🤢
What is the weirdest thing you still eat?
I really love peanut butter on my crepes😋
You can have any extinct or fantasy animal as a pet. What would you choose?
The enormous pteradactyl, Quetzalcoatlus. With a handy riding harness. And maybe some water ballons…😏
List a very boring fact about yourself.
I am an American mutt. My parents were from very different parts of the country, but all four of my grandparents came from families that settled in the U.S. in the timespan 1630–1730.
You are granted a wish to have any food you want—but the catch is you will have to eat it twice a day for the rest of your life. What do you choose?
**ponders** popcorn or freshly baked cookies or popcorn or freshly baked cookies or popcorn or—
You can choose any singer or band to play at your funeral. Who do you pick?
Nat King Cole. Everyone can roll up the rugs, and dance the night away!
What line of poetry or doggerel is forever stuck in your brain?
Charge of the Light Brigade: “Into the jaws of Death, into the mouth of hell/Rode the six hundred.” I used to quote this at work, usually when we were getting overrun. For some reason, my bosses were never amused. Then again. they also didnt appreciate it when I would tell them ‘I would like to inform you that the barbarians are at the gates.”😂😂😂
You can bring back an item of clothing that has fallen out of style. What would it be?
We really need to bring back the clothing of the Han Chinese. Imagine if we could all walk around in loose, flowing comfortable clothes. Also, wearing hanfu means long flowing belts—which means we could turn all the cool stuff we currently put on our key chains into belt decorations. With tassles. Cuz modern clothing haz a serious lack of tassles. Just saying…
You are granted the gift of being a were creature. What animal would you choose to change into?
Definitely were-otter. Much scampering, much floating—and lots of fish. Also, I wouldnt have to worry about villagers and pitchforks, cuz seriously, who is gonna be scared of a were-otter?
What is the most useless fact you know?
The last person to collect a Civil War pension was Irene Triplett. She passed away in 2020. Also, in 1916 the U.S. Postal Service changed the rules, and you can no longer mail more than 200 pounds/90 kilos in a single day. Why? Some guy was building a bank in Utah and realized he could save on freight charges by just having the bricks mailed. Yes, ALL of the bricks😂😂😂
You are going to be locked, all alone, in a place for 24 hours. Which place do you choose?
Um, tie. The Jacques Marchais Museum of Tibetan Art or the Gilcrease Museum😍
What is the superpower you want and whats the superpower you DONT want?
Best superpower? Making quarters appear wherever I want. No, seriously. Think about how much fun you could have, in a super sneaky way. College kid walks by—put a few extra quarters in their pocket. Seniors sitting on a park bench—now there are handfuls of quarters in the bottom of their purses. Tip jar at the coffee shop—add another layer of quarters. Also easiest superhero name ever. Just stick a pencil behind your ear and call yourself ‘Drawn and Quartered’🤣🤣🤣
The worst superpower? Anything to do with ice and snow. Nope nope nope!
ok tagging @distilled-prose @cowandcalf @teruel-a-witch @ellena-asg @wordrummager @torrentialmonsoon @sherrylephotography @ends-2-beginnings @itwoodbeprefect @alex-a-roman @mikefrawley @firstfullmoon @gracebriarwoodwrites @maureen2musings @stephmcx and cuz I changed the questions @demeter1111 also tagging @neil-gaiman cuz I know he wont answer, but I am super curious about his answer to question one😂😂😂
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audreydoeskaren · 2 years
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Abridged History of Qing Dynasty Han Women’s Fashion (part 1: Late Ming & Shunzhi Era)
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Intro
Finally got around to writing this series! Couple notes before we begin. I will only discuss civilian fashion and not court dress because 1) Qing court dress is well documented and there are plenty of other people/blogs/articles that explain it better than I ever could 2) court dress doesn’t really count as fashion because it serves ceremonial/religious/political purposes and is not supposed to change. The overwhelming majority of English language information about Qing Dynasty clothing is about court dress and Manchu women’s fashion, so I will be doing a disservice to the era if I continued that line of discussion. It should be noted that most literature on court dress and Manchu women’s fashion is not flawless either; court dress is often flattened to “dragon robes” by white historians despite it not being a legitimate fashion history term, and much information about “Qing Dynasty” Manchu fashion is really about that of the early 20th century, the Republican era. That is outside the scope of discussion for this series. Instead, I would like to shed some light on the life and times of Han women’s fashion during the Qing, something strictly kept out of the canon of Chinese fashion history until very recently.
Before we jump into it, we need some context. Prior to the establishment of the Qing Dynasty, China was ruled by the Ming Dynasty under ethnically Han (majority ethnicity in China nowadays) rulers since 1368. A collection of Jurchen tribes from what is now northeastern China and parts of Siberia, who later called themselves the Manchus, conquered China in 1644. In order to solidify their power, the new Manchu rulers forced Han Chinese men to adopt Manchu style clothing and hairstyles, but Han women were allowed to continue wearing Han style clothing, which is why the second half of the 17th century appears to be the continuation of the late Ming Dynasty aesthetic. 
However, the early Qing was undeniably distinct from the Ming Dynasty, and I will not tolerate anybody calling clothes from this era “Ming style”. It could potentially be considered hanfu, as it was worn by Han women exclusively----something up for the community to decide----but it definitely did not belong to Ming Dynasty proper. Although in the 1640s and 50s some resistance forces in the south (dubbed “Southern Ming”) were still around, it’s not really worthwhile to make the distinction for womenswear, so let’s place it under Qing Dynasty for convenience. I have berated 18th century erasure quite frequently and passionately in the past (and it’s often extended to the 17th century as well), if you have seen any of those posts you would know that Qing Han women’s fashion prior to the 19th century is routinely mislabelled as Ming because it didn’t adhere to 20th century stereotypes about the “Manchuness” of Qing clothing and supposed Chinese backwardness in the colonial imagination of the time. Because of this reason, please do not be surprised if any of the images from the first couple posts of this series appear to be depicting what is commonly considered “Ming Dynasty hanfu”; they do not, they were from the Qing, plain and simple. It’s often simply because people don’t pay enough attention to the dating of artworks.
I will use emperors’ reign years as a guide for eras in this series because oftentimes that’s the most accurate dating that exists for artworks (many are unclear as to the exact year/decade they were made in), though I would recommend using exact dates instead of emperors wherever possible.
Fashion of the Ming-Qing transition
Han women’s fashion of the very early Qing had significant overlap and continuity with the late Ming. I’m not very knowledgeable on the minutiae of Ming Dynasty clothing so do add/correct anything. The standard ensemble for Han Chinese women was the 袄裙 aoqun (alternatively named 衫裙 shanqun) ensemble consisting of a robe and a skirt. In the 1620s and 30s, the cut of the robe was extremely generous, the hem hitting about knee length and the sleeves almost touching the ground. The sleeves of this era (and often throughout Chinese history) were longer than that of the length of the wearer’s arms, meaning that the wearer is required to grab the cuffs of the sleeves in order to facilitate the use of their arms. Many consider this inconvenient nowadays, but keep in mind that these robes with huge sleeves were made for wealthy people who hired servants and didn’t need to do physical labor. Working class people wore shorter, tighter sleeves that could also be held up by a garter. 
The robe had a fitted tall standing collar, as opposed to the cross collar popular in previous centuries. The standing collar in the 1620s and 30s was soft, unstiffened and closed by two 子母扣 zimukou, metal clasp buttons, one at the bottom of the collar where it touched the bodice and one at the middle of the collar. Collars with only one button also existed, and these would be worn folded over. Gold or silver piping on the collar began to be popularized on the collar. Robes were closed at the side under the right armpit, commonly with tie strings. The placket forms a straight diagonal line from the collar to under the armpit. In the 17th century, robes were commonly plain and unicolor, with only brocade/embroidery in the same color. When decorative patterns were used, they were frequently in a repetitive arrangement of small clusters of motifs. Light pastel colors or white were very popular. Undergarments whose cuffs could be seen on the outside were commonly red, providing a contrasting flash of color to the otherwise light and plain ensembles.
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Illustration from the late Ming novel 鸳鸯绦, showing the large sleeves popular at the time.
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Late Ming women’s robe from the Confucius Estate collection.
The skirt was usually of 马面 mamian construction, basically two pleated pieces of fabric with two unpleated sections at the middle each, called 裙门 qunmen, that are sewn onto a waistband with one unpleated section overlapping, creating a wrap skirt. It has ribbons attached to each end of the waistband and was closed by wrapping the skirt around the waist and tying with the ribbons. Throughout much of the Ming Dynasty, mamian skirts were decorated using 裙襕 qunlan, a horizontal row of gold brocade or embroidery across the skirt, whose placement and widths varied depending on the trends of the decade. In the 1620s and 30s, skirts became increasingly simple, and plain white skirts were all the rage. Decorative features like qunlan were frequently relegated to formal dress.
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Illustration for the Chongzhen era novel 醋葫芦. The repetitive decorative patterns could be seen on the robe of the lady to the left.
Women’s hairstyle of this period is referred to as 三绺梳头 or “hair in three sections”, where the front of one’s hair would be divided into three sections, top, left and right, which would then be tied and coiled at the back, sometimes forming an elongated end at the bottom called a 燕尾 or “swallow tail”.
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Late Ming/early Qing painting showing two fashionable women. The flash of red from the under robe is visible.
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Beside the skirt and robe, women could layer a 披风 pifeng on top of the robe. These were equally generous in cut as the robe but had a 直领 zhiling, parallel collar, and were closed by tie strings or bigger decorative clasp buttons at the center front. It usually had a wide facing at the collar, which in the 1620s and 30s were often plain and in the same color as the garment. 
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Mid 17th century portrait. This lady is wearing a plain red robe with gold buttons and piping, blue pifeng and plain white mamian skirt. 
By the 1640s, the width of the sleeves had become smaller, and hairstyles became gradually fuller and more voluminous at the top, beginning the transition to the Kangxi era. The diagonal placket on robes began to be replaced by closures at the center front, often held together by tie strings.
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Section of 浴砚图 by 蓝瑛 Lan Ying and 徐泰 Xu Tai, 1659. We can see the center front closure with tie strings instead of the diagonal placket closing under the right armpit popular in previous eras.
Around this time, robes made of sheer fabric were being popularized as informal loungewear for warmer weather. Sheer robes were not proper enough to be worn outside, but we can catch a glimpse of these robes along with the undergarments beneath in romantic paintings with a domestic setting. The principle women’s undergarment for the upper body remained a 主腰 zhuyao, a tube top-like garment that provided bust support. It could have shoulder straps and was usually closed at the back with tie strings, though closures with cloth buttons became increasingly common throughout the Qing.
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Shunzhi era painting series by Sun Huang (the cover image for this post is from the same series), showing a lady and her maids in lounging clothes, the zhuyao visible under the sheer robe.
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I’m not as knowledgeable about the earlier parts of the Qing Dynasty as the later ones, so as always feel free to correct or add anything to this post :))
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fouryearsofshades · 1 year
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If hanyuansu is the term for modernized hanfu fashion, is there a term for modernized qipao/cheongsam?
Hm I think Hanyuansu means "western-cut clothing with han elements" as they don't need to follow any rules about hanfu making. They are not considered as hanfu.
Modernized hanfu fashion are usually called "workplace style"(职场Zhíchǎng / 通勤 Tōngqín) or "daily style"(日常 Rìcháng).
Qipao/cheongsam are modernized and made with the western draping method. Classical qipao/cheongsam are usually called 平裁旗袍Píngcái qípáo(flat-cutting? I don't know how to translate that).
@audreydoeskaren has a lot of information on qipao/cheongsam fashion. I highly recommend to check out their blog.
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