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#he won the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award last year
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Christopher John Rogers Fall 2020 Ready-to-Wear
Photos by Daniele Oberrauch
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gothify1 · 5 years
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Lately it seems as if there’s not a day that goes by where I’m not triggered by a blatant form of racial insensitivity, evident lack of diverse staff, or lack of awareness coming from fashion brands and design houses alike. In a time when we're reckoning with the legacy of iconic designers and brands, maybe the best thing consumers can do is take a step back and look at how we contribute. Sure, we can’t control what designers send down the runway, but one of the most fundamentally underrated ways to be an ally to the black community (and any community for that matter) is through how we spend our money. As we celebrate Black History Month I believe there’s truly no better way to appreciate and support black artistry than through shopping black-owned business and designers. Keep scrolling to find some of my favorite designers to shop this month and beyond. The first time I saw Brother Vellies in my feed, my heart skipped a beat. I saw a woman who looks just like me on social media (a rare occasion) wearing these incredible black feather heels. From that moment on, I was hooked. From its Instagram feed to how each product is made, Brother Vellies is thoughtful with everything it does. Founded by Aurora James, the brand is dedicated to sustainability and works with artisans in South Africa, Ethiopia, Kenya, and Morocco to make its handcrafted shoes. Basically, whenever I’m feeling philanthropic but need a pair of shoes, I’ll be spending all my money with Brother Vellies. Remember that iconic blazer look Beyoncé wore on her last On the Run II tour? That was from Queens-born designer LaQuan Smith. His glamorous and often sultry designs have not only caught the attention of the queen, but Cardi B, Rihanna, Jennifer Lopez, and other celebrities alike. If celebrities are not enough to immediately pique your interest, his previous collaboration this past fall with ASOS may do the trick. Featuring men’s and women’s clothing and plus-size options, the affordable collection toes the line between down to earth and just a pinch of extra. Not convinced yet? Check out his work below. Confession: I was hyperventilating at my desk when watching Carly Cushnie’s F/W 19 presentation. Something about her all-red layered look with velvet flare-leg pants and her Tibet Lamb Coat had me seriously re-considering my wardrobe choices. Her work often does that though; it’s so beautifully structured, minimal, and yet feminine you can’t help but to imagine how magical your life would be if you were just wearing one of her pieces. Imagine yourself sitting in Positano, Italy, with sun shining down on you while you’re drinking lemonade—but what are you wearing? Hopefully Fe Noel. The Grenadian womenswear designer from Brooklyn specialized in collections that practically scream "book a flight right now." Felisha Noel also recently collaborated with Afro-cuban American painter Harmonia Rosales. Rosales is known for reimaging iconic renaissance art pieces as black women, and we’re here for his jump from canvas to Fe Noel’s silk. After all, there’s no better way to celebrate black history than by recognising and reclaiming the beauty of black identity that’s been erased in larger historical narratives. CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund winner Telfar Clemens not only creates pieces that anyone can wear but continually pushes societal boundaries through challenging black and gender identity norms. After all, how many designers this past fall sent unisex clothing through a mosh pit environment while country music blasted in the background? Have you ever seen black cowboys sporting fringe? Probably not. If you’re looking for clothing that pushes boundaries and comes from a unique perspective, Telfar is your new go-to. Remember when we did that beautiful cover shoot with Yara Shahidi? If you haven’t been able to stop thinking about the printed silk suit she’s wearing, you’re not alone. The suit was part of a Pyer Moss collaboration with artist Derrick Adams that aimed to explore the idea of black life without persecution. In many ways, it’s easy to see why Kerby Jean-Raymond won the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award, was named one of Forbes 30 Under 30, and has a Reebok partnership. But in truth, the accolades don’t even begin to speak to the gravitas of his work. Designing for both men and women, Kerby uses his collections to give voice to the African American experience one piece at a time. Ever since the designer made waves with luxury street label Off-White and stepped into his role as menswear artistic director for Louis Vuitton , Virgil has kept the industry’s attention. And the hype thus far is definitely worth it. Sure, everyone lost it over his debut this past June ,  but his most recent menswear shows for fall 2019 caught my attention. For Louis Vuitton, Virgil used a Broadway-like production to set viewers in an old New York with live jazz in the back while well-tailored suits and subtle American flag pieces made their way down the runway. For Off-White, set against a landscape that turned into a green screen, models wearing box blazers paired with football helmets made their way through a dystopian cityscape. While both his shows stayed true to the brand’s identity, it felt as if both were a reflection of his own experiences as a black man and the environments that shaped him. To me, that reflection in and of itself, is breathtaking. Maybe it was just me, but the 2019 Grammy outfits truly solidified my love for Olivier Rousteing at Balmain. How could one not be in a tizzy over Béyonce’s iconic look, Jorja Smith’s stunning gold sequin number, or even Kylie Jenner’s avant-garde look? I know he’s been the creative director for nine years—which means I’ve been high-key sleeping on him—but something about him taking the brand back to couture week has made me fall in love all over again. Maybe it’s couture or maybe it’s him, but either way this a brand and a designer you should be buying into at the moment. Next: 14 Editor-Approved Designer Bags So Good We Bought Them
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kentonramsey · 4 years
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Pyer Moss, Telfar & Christopher John Rogers Are CFDA Fashion Award Winners
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On Monday, during the first-ever digital NYFW, the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) announced the winners of the 2020 Fashion Awards. And despite some worry that this year’s winners would look all too similar to those in years past — The Row, Marc Jacobs, and Tom Ford, who have all won multiple times, were nominated again this year — the announcement didn’t disappoint, with three Black designers taking home the ultimate prize in their respective categories: Christopher John Rogers, Telfar Clemens, and Pyer Moss’ Kerby Jean-Raymond.
After announcing that Kim Jones, Dior’s creative director of menswear and the new artistic director of Fendi womenswear, had won International Menswear Designer of the Year and Pierpaolo Piccioli of Valentino had won the same category for womenswear, Tom Ford, the Chairman of the CFDA, revealed the winner for the new American Emerging Designer of the Year award: Christopher John Rogers. The category made waves back in July for including a fresh list of designers among an otherwise-been-there-done-that roster. In addition to Christopher John Rogers, who was also the winner of the 2019 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award, it included Kenneth Nicholson, Peter Do, and Reese Cooper. 
“I’m incredibly humbled and honoured to receive the CFDA Emerging Designer of the Year Award for 2020. Thank you very much to Chairman @tomford and all of the hardworking folks at the @CFDA for your tremendous encouragement and continued support. Thank ya’ll for getting it,” Rogers wrote on Instagram following his win. The designer, whose fall ‘20 NYFW show was the talk of fashion month, was recently worn by Lady Gaga at the 2020 MTV VMAs. His designs were also featured in a number of September issues, including Zendaya’s InStyle editorial, Tessa Thompson’s Porter cover, and Hunter Schafer’s shoot for Allure. 
Next up was the award for American Accessories Designer of the Year, which regularly sees Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen’s luxury brand The Row crowned victor. After losing the category to the two last year, Telfar Clemens, the designer behind the “Bushwick Birkin” Shopping Bag, was selected as the winner. This win for Telfar is well-deserved, given the year that Clemens and his brand have had thus far, which includes multiple record sell-outs of the bag and AOC’s seal of approval, among other high points. 
View this post on Instagram
CFDA American Menswear Designer of the Year 2020. My pops still won’t understand. ❤️
A post shared by Kerby Jean-Raymond (@kerbito) on Sep 14, 2020 at 10:55am PDT
Another former CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award winner won an award in the American Menswear Designer of the Year category on Monday. Jean-Raymond, the founder and creative director of Pyer Moss, beat out a competitive list of nominees that included Emily Bode for Bode, Thom Browne, Todd Snyder, and Tom Ford. And this wasn’t even his first award this week. On Sunday, Jean-Raymond was honoured at Harlem’s Fashion Row Style Awards and Fashion Show with the Designer of the Year Award. “We’ve done some incredible shit,” he wrote on Instagram, after calling out members of his team. “More still, god willing.” 
According to a press release, each of the winners in the four American categories — Christopher John Rogers, Telfar Clemens, Kerby Jean-Raymond, and Gabriela Hearst, who won the American Womenswear Designer of the Year Award — are taking home their first-ever CFDA Fashion Awards today. (Hearst is the first female designer to win the womenswear prize since 2015, as well as the only female winner in 2020.) As it stands, this is the most diverse group of recipients in the awards’ 39-year-history. 
See all the nominations and winners below.
American Womenswear Designer of the Year:
Ashley Olsen and Mary-Kate Olsen for The Row
Brandon Maxwell
Gabriela Hearst
Marc Jacobs
Tom Ford
American Menswear Designer of the Year:
Emily Adams Bode for Bode
Kerby Jean-Raymond for Pyer Moss
Thom Browne
Todd Snyder
Tom Ford
American Accessories Designer of the Year:
Ashley Olsen and Mary-Kate Olsen for The Row
Gabriela Hearst
Jennifer Fisher for Jennifer Fisher Jewelry
Stuart Vevers for Coach
Telfar Clemens for Telfar
American Emerging Designer of the Year:
Christopher John Rogers
Kenneth Nicholson
Peter Do
Reese Cooper
Sarah Staudinger and George Augusto for Staud
Global Women’s Designer of the Year:
Daniel Lee for Bottega Veneta
Dries Van Noten
Miuccia Prada for Prada
Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino
Rick Owens
Global Men’s Designer of the Year:
Craig Green
Dries Van Noten
Jonathan Anderson for Loewe
Kim Jones for Dior
Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton
Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?
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Pyer Moss, Telfar & Christopher John Rogers Are CFDA Fashion Award Winners published first on https://mariakistler.tumblr.com/
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womenofcolor15 · 4 years
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Designer Christopher John Rogers WINS The Coveted CFDA/VOGUE Fashion Fund + LaLa Anthony, Lil Nas X & More Hit The Carpet
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Fashion designer Christopher John Rogers (above) won the coveted CFDA/VOGUE Fashion Fun and there were several celebs in the mix to celebrate, including Kat Graham, LaLa Anthony, Lil Nas X and more. Get it all inside…
          View this post on Instagram
                  This is the physical manifestation of the prayers and sacrifices of my forefathers. God, the universe, my family, my TEAM, the judges. Thank you, endlessly. #CVFF #winnerwinnerchickendinner @trixiemattel
A post shared by Christopher John Rogers (@christopherjohnrogers) on Nov 4, 2019 at 7:38pm PST
  Black boy joy!
Fashion designer Christopher John Rogers just got the co-sign of a lifetime after he scooped up the coveted CFDA/VOGUE Fashion Fund. The 25-year-old will receive $400,000 along with a mentorship through the Council of Fashion Designers America. Woot! The win comes less than two months after he made his official runway debut at New York Fashion Week.
The Baton Rouge-born designer has styled several A-listers, including Rihanna, Michelle Obama, Lizzo, Tracee Ellis Ross and Cardi B.
For his big night, he did not disappoint. He lit up the red carpet in bold red suit with a matching boa and a pair of mini sunglasses. On Instagram, he expressed how excited he was to win this year’s CFDA/VOGUE Fashion Award.
”This is the physical manifestation of the prayers and sacrifices of my forefathers,” he captioned a picture of himself on Instagram. “God, the universe, my family, my TEAM, the judges. Thank you, endlessly. #CVFF #winnerwinnerchickendinner @trixiemattel”
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All Eyez On Me actress got bow tied, trimmed and painted in one of Christopher's gowns, hitting the carpet alongside the designer during the event.
Inside, the twosome celebrated his win:
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          View this post on Instagram
                  Seriously if this is not the most perfect holiday dress I don’t know what is.... Getting bow tied, trimmed and painted for the CFDA x Vogue Fashion Fund dinner in the only @christopherjohnrogers @haroldjulian
A post shared by Kat Graham (@katgraham) on Nov 6, 2019 at 10:01am PST
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  Kat looked GOODT!
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"Power" star LaLa Anthony popped up in a silk coral cut-out wrap Off White dress.
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  LaLa showed Christopher love on social media after his win:
          View this post on Instagram
                  Off-White....Last Night at the CFDA/VOGUE Fashion Fund... it was an incredible night...congrats to @christopherjohnrogers for winning..can’t wait to see what’s next for u
A post shared by ℒᎯ ℒᎯ (@lala) on Nov 5, 2019 at 6:31am PST
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  Lil Nas X showed off his fashion flare in a white suit splattered with black paint.
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Pregnant model Ashley Graham rocked a custom iridescent mint and grape wiggle dress made by Christopher John Rogers.
Speaking of models...
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Models Jasmine Tookes and Jourdan Dunn struck a few poses on the carpet.
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Jourdan linked up with designer/TV personality Tan France ("Queer Eye") on the carpet. LOVE both looks.
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R&B crooner Maxwell was also in the mix.
  Congrats again, Christopher John Rogers!
Photos: Getty/INSTAR/Splash/Instagram
[Read More ...] source http://theybf.com/2019/11/08/designer-christopher-john-rogers-wins-the-coveted-cfdavogue-fashion-fund-lala-anthony-lil
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robertshugartca · 5 years
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Lately it seems as if there’s not a day that goes by where I’m...
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Lately it seems as if there’s not a day that goes by where I’m not triggered by a blatant form of racial insensitivity, evident lack of diverse staff, or lack of awareness coming from fashion brands and design houses alike. In a time when we’re reckoning with the legacy of iconic designers and brands, maybe the best thing consumers can do is take a step back and look at how we contribute.
Sure, we can’t control what designers send down the runway, but one of the most fundamentally underrated ways to be an ally to the black community (and any community for that matter) is through how we spend our money. As we celebrate Black History Month I believe there’s truly no better way to appreciate and support black artistry than through shopping black-owned business and designers. Keep scrolling to find some of my favorite designers to shop this month and beyond.
The first time I saw Brother Vellies in my feed, my heart skipped a beat. I saw a woman who looks just like me on social media (a rare occasion) wearing these incredible black feather heels. From that moment on, I was hooked. From its Instagram feed to how each product is made, Brother Vellies is thoughtful with everything it does.
Founded by Aurora James, the brand is dedicated to sustainability and works with artisans in South Africa, Ethiopia, Kenya, and Morocco to make its handcrafted shoes. Basically, whenever I’m feeling philanthropic but need a pair of shoes, I’ll be spending all my money with Brother Vellies.
Remember that iconic blazer look Beyoncé wore on her last On the Run II tour? That was from Queens-born designer LaQuan Smith. His glamorous and often sultry designs have not only caught the attention of the queen, but Cardi B, Rihanna, Jennifer Lopez, and other celebrities alike. If celebrities are not enough to immediately pique your interest, his previous collaboration this past fall with ASOS may do the trick. Featuring men’s and women’s clothing and plus-size options, the affordable collection toes the line between down to earth and just a pinch of extra. Not convinced yet? Check out his work below.
Confession: I was hyperventilating at my desk when watching Carly Cushnie’s F/W 19 presentation. Something about her all-red layered look with velvet flare-leg pants and her Tibet Lamb Coat had me seriously re-considering my wardrobe choices. Her work often does that though; it’s so beautifully structured, minimal, and yet feminine you can’t help but to imagine how magical your life would be if you were just wearing one of her pieces.
Imagine yourself sitting in Positano, Italy, with sun shining down on you while you’re drinking lemonade—but what are you wearing? Hopefully Fe Noel. The Grenadian womenswear designer from Brooklyn specialized in collections that practically scream “book a flight right now.” Felisha Noel also recently collaborated with Afro-cuban American painter
Harmonia Rosales. Rosales is known for reimaging iconic renaissance art pieces as black women, and we’re here for his jump from canvas to Fe Noel’s silk. After all, there’s no better way to celebrate black history than by recognising and reclaiming the beauty of black identity that’s been erased in larger historical narratives.
CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund winner Telfar Clemens not only creates pieces that anyone can wear but continually pushes societal boundaries through challenging black and gender identity norms. After all, how many designers this past fall sent unisex clothing through a mosh pit environment while country music blasted in the background? Have you ever seen black cowboys sporting fringe? Probably not. If you’re looking for clothing that pushes boundaries and comes from a unique perspective, Telfar is your new go-to.
Remember when we did that beautiful cover shoot with Yara Shahidi? If you haven’t been able to stop thinking about the printed silk suit she’s wearing, you’re not alone. The suit was part of a Pyer Moss collaboration with artist Derrick Adams that aimed to explore the idea of black life without persecution.
In many ways, it’s easy to see why Kerby Jean-Raymond won the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award, was named one of Forbes 30 Under 30, and has a Reebok partnership. But in truth, the accolades don’t even begin to speak to the gravitas of his work. Designing for both men and women, Kerby uses his collections to give voice to the African American experience one piece at a time.
Ever since the designer made waves with luxury street label Off-White and stepped into his role as menswear artistic director for Louis Vuitton , Virgil has kept the industry’s attention. And the hype thus far is definitely worth it. Sure, everyone lost it over his debut this past June ,  but his most recent menswear shows for fall 2019 caught my attention.
For Louis Vuitton, Virgil used a Broadway-like production to set viewers in an old New York with live jazz in the back while well-tailored suits and subtle American flag pieces made their way down the runway.
For Off-White, set against a landscape that turned into a green screen, models wearing box blazers paired with football helmets made their way through a dystopian cityscape. While both his shows stayed true to the brand’s identity, it felt as if both were a reflection of his own experiences as a black man and the environments that shaped him. To me, that reflection in and of itself, is breathtaking.
Maybe it was just me, but the 2019 Grammy outfits truly solidified my love for Olivier Rousteing at Balmain. How could one not be in a tizzy over Béyonce’s iconic look, Jorja Smith’s stunning gold sequin number, or even Kylie Jenner’s avant-garde look? I know he’s been the creative director for nine years—which means I’ve been high-key sleeping on him—but something about him taking the brand back to couture week has made me fall in love all over again. Maybe it’s couture or maybe it’s him, but either way this a brand and a designer you should be buying into at the moment.
Next: 14 Editor-Approved Designer Bags So Good We Bought Them
source https://gothify1.tumblr.com/post/183095827025
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thetrendingfashions · 4 years
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Most diverse winners in 39 years: Gabriela Hearst, Kerby Jean-Raymond win top fashion... - Subscribe my channel click here https://ift.tt/3bbz2Ph #Trending #Fashion #Style Twitter - https://twitter.com/FashionTrnding Facebook - https://ift.tt/2KycAEy Pinterest - https://ift.tt/2yFV929 Tumblr - https://ift.tt/2W8Qr59 Home / Fashion and Trends / Most diverse winners in 39 years: Gabriela Hearst, Kerby Jean-Raymond win top fashion awards by Council of Fashion Designers of America The Council of Fashion Designers of America gave its top fashion awards on Monday to Gabriela Hearst for womenswear and Kerby Jean-Raymond for menswear. The two designers led a group of winners that the CFDA said was the most diverse in the 39-year history of the awards. It was the second honour in two days for Jean-Raymond, the prominent Black founder of the Pyer Moss label, who was also named Designer of the Year by Harlem’s Fashion Row in a virtual ceremony on Sunday. The CFDA winners also included Telfar Clemens, who won the accessories award, and Christopher John Rogers, who won for American emerging designer. All four were first-time winners. There were no acceptance speeches in a video announcement that lasted less than 10 minutes, but Hearst issued a statement in which she sent “a kiss” to Uruguay, where she was born, and saluted her fellow nominees as well as designers everywhere, many of whom are struggling to stay afloat amidst the coronavirus pandemic. “We are all in this together,” Hearst said. The designer is known for sleek power-dressing, like a teal pantsuit modeled by then-incoming U.S. Rep. Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez in 2018 in Interview magazine. The jacket was dubbed the Angela, for Black activist Angela Davis. The Brooklyn-based Jean-Raymond, who began working in fashion as a teenager, founded Pyer Moss in 2013. He has placed the African American experience at the center of his craft, and gained sudden fame with a 2015 fashion show that opened with a long video about police brutality against Black people. He recently said that racism had become more overt since the 2016 election. “We’re unearthing things now. We’re realizing that we had outward racists among us in the fashion industry,” he told the Washington Post in June. “You’re seeing images now, you’re seeing blackface parties … the type of stuff we were enduring as young designers, a lot of that stuff was covert.” Following Monday’s announcement, Jean-Raymond posted a brief Instagram video showing him opening up the box containing his silver trophy, and winking at his followers. In two new categories, the award for international women’s designer went to Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino, and the international men’s designer award went to Kim Jones for Dior. Clemens, the accessories design winner, was born to Liberian parents in New York. He founded his unisex brand, Telfar, while still a student at Pace University. Famous for his popular Telfar “shopping bags,” he is a 2017 winner of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Prize. Rogers, who won for emerging designer, won the Fashion Fund prize last year. He is known for exaggerated silhouettes, often in bright neon colors. “My friends and family encourage me to manifest my singular American Dream,” he wrote on Instagram, “and I feel that it’s increasingly important to emphasize that specificity and clarity of vision, especially today.” The awards were announced by designer Tom Ford, chairman of the CFDA and also a current nominee, in a brief video announcement on Runway360, the organization’s new digital platform. They were originally scheduled to be presented, as usual, at a glitzy ceremony in June, but the event was canceled due to the pandemic. On Sunday evening, Harlem’s Fashion Row, which supports and promotes designers of color, presented its own style awards with a virtual event that also highlighted three collections, by designers Richfresh, Kimberly Goldson, and Kristian Lorén. Along with Jean-Raymond, honorees were Teen Vogue editor-in-chief Lindsay Peoples Wagner, publicist Nate Hinton, and British Vogue’s editor in chief, Edward Enninful. (This story has been published from a wire agency feed without modifications to the text. Only the headline has been changed.) Follow more stories on Facebook and Twitter Credit:Hindustan Times Source: https://ift.tt/2GUowSe...
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ladystylestores · 4 years
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ANDAM Winners Marine Serre and Glenn Martens Envision Fashion’s Future – WWD
https://pmcwwd.files.wordpress.com/2020/04/marine-serre-07.jpg?w=640&h=415&crop=1
PARIS —The hand-wringing started well before the coronavirus pandemic hit. Can the fashion industry learn to become more sustainable? How is it possible to ensure a future for independent labels? 
ANDAM winners Marine Serre and Y/Project designer Glenn Martens have some answers to these questions, which have only become more urgent — and complicated — in the wake of the coronavirus crisis.
Winners of the ANDAM family fund award, revealed last week — Serre’s namesake label got 200,000 euros and Y/Project was awarded 15,000 euros — they now also have additional industry backing to spur their independent labels along at this difficult juncture.
WWD spoke with each of the two winners of the award, which served as a reset this year — pivoting to a channel of support from the traditional prize competition of previous editions.
“This prize arrives at a very different stage than the first prize I won three years ago,” Serre said.
“It really means a lot because it’s helping us to stay fully independent,” she added.
Organizers of ANDAM, France’s oldest fashion prize, said in April that they would forgo the traditional format and focus on a handful of French companies to help them adapt to the fresh challenge brought on by COVID-19. The idea was to identify viable projects for working through the crisis to build a future, and step in to help, providing both financial and mentoring support. 
ANDAM’s pivot came amid others, with the CFDA and Vogue setting up a fund-raising campaign for designers called “A Common Thread,” while LVMH Prize organizers distributed 40,000 euros to eight finalists rather than allotting the full funds to one winner.  
ANDAM’s jury is made up of top brass from leading luxury companies, including Kering chairman and chief executive officer François-Henri Pinault and Chanel president Bruno Pavlovsky, as well as executives from LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton and Hermès International. 
“It’s always a great honor that they think the work you’re doing is worth being there and they help you and push you — it’s a nice confirmation that you’re going in the right direction,” said Martens, who described ANDAM as having “one of the most influential, business-minded” juries.
“Creativity is part of it, but it’s really about the whole concept of creativity and business,” he said.
When the label won the prize three years ago, it was a growing brand.
“We had no money, no investors, no money injection, so the problem always with growing brands, is that there’s no treasury — whenever you have a better sale or a better season, you have to invest the money you get from clients in production — your prepayment is actually not covering that production, so there’s always a struggle,” he said.
The injection of funds provided by Andam three years ago allowed the label to invest in more senior positions and recruit commercial and production directors.
“That really was the turning point because having more senior people in your company really helps you to build it up in a more proper and adult way,” he said.
Y/Project Men’s Spring 2021  Courtesy Photo
This time, funds will be used to boost some key projects at Y/Project — the Evergreen line, a virtual showroom and the ecommerce site.
The fresh funds will now help the label set the projects on the same path of stabilization — as he calls it — that the brand as a whole has recently reached, Martens said. 
“With Y/Project, the great thing about us is that we just became young adults so actually we’re quite stabilized,” he said, compared to younger labels just starting out.
Serre said her label plans to deepen its focus on projects they had identified earlier on.
“We have a lot of really important topics that we were trying to develop since the beginning of the  brand,” she said, referring to the label’s “eco-futurist” approach of working toward a circular model —around half of the collection is made up of upcycled garments.
“Before COVID-19, we were in a really, really good situation with that and people were starting to understand and to also like it,” she added.
But things got more complicated as the crisis hit. 
Some processes became more difficult as the label works with suppliers around the world to source unused garments — the designer issued upcycling films during the lockdown, showing piles of jeans from the U.S. being transformed into new pieces.
“It was really challenging to make a simple fabric during the COVID-19,” she noted.
The funds will help her label push further on environmental topics.
“It will help us for sure go toward climate neutrality. We are also wanting to go for since the beginning, but we went step by step and it’s clearly something we were going to start just before the COVID-19,”  she said.
At Y/Project, the label plans to use funds from the award to develop the eco-friendly Evergreen line, which Martens describes as a collection based on carryover styles of characteristic and symbolic Y/Project designs, with the personal twist developed over the years.
“We really respect the garments, and on top of that, it’s a collection that’s fully produced in the most ethical and sustainable way, so everything is certified — the factory is certified, it’s quite a big process, we’ve been working on it for a year almost,” he said. 
It’s a small team working on the project — the production department, which counts around four people, researching new methods and factories — which also entails traveling, Martens added.
“We’re not like those kind of conglomerates with an army of people able to do all this research — it’s all the same people who have to do the job here,” he said, citing the search for more ways to treat denim, with air pressure, for example. 
They also want to add new classics to expand the line.
The label is also launching a new e-commerce site, which will carry a lot of content about the Evergreen line and the versatility of the transformable pieces, how they are made and where — with a focus more on craftsmanship than the creative people being them. The “why and how and who,” he said.
“It will be a lot about educating also our customers specifically with the Evergreen line because there’s also going to be a transparency policy linked to it, explaining why the pieces are there, how expensive they are, this kind of thing,” he said, noting that the label tries to align the prices of Evergreen pieces with the main collection. A long tailored wool coat, carries a retail price of around 1,200 euros while a basic shirt is priced around 300 euros, while denim pieces range from 350 to 450 euros, for example. 
“We have a bit of tailoring, couture — actually very multidimensional in garments, not one dimensional. To curate this diversity, you really have to dig deeper into the brand to really understand it,” he added.
“A lot of dreams are behind it and I think we have to go back to that and explain it to people, not everybody is working in the business, not everybody is able to be as privileged as we are to go to fashion week and understand it,” he said.
The “Internet is a great platform to explain all the crazy stories behind it,” he added. 
The label launched a film last week that shows different garments being adjusted on models — a body-hugging miniskirt becomes a long dress with a collar on top, and panels on trousers and tops that gets unbuttoned and peeled back to reveal different layers. 
“There’s going to be a whole focus on showing that versatility and explaining how you can experiment, and try to own a piece and make it closest to your personality — those versatile garments are supposed to grow on you — you really have to ask yourself ‘How do I want to wear this dress?’ ‘How do I feel today?’ ‘How do I want to be perceived?’ and often the dress has different answers,” he explained.
Most retail stores understand the label’s diverse approach and how to select things, but he is expecting e-commerce will be able to help the brand to “reinforce the rich and diverse world that we are representing,” as he put it.
Martens envisions a platform where one can “buy everything, the more couture pieces, and not just the happy bestsellers, it’s also the more intriguing pieces [that] are maybe more difficult to find worldwide, and I think, thanks to the web site, it’s also gonna be reachable,” he said. 
The label is also developing a virtual showroom — Martens expects retailers to start making more purchases virtually. 
“I’ve been talking to so many stores during COVID-19, and some people are actually fed up with coming to Paris like six times a year,” he said. 
“I’m sure there are also alternative ways to see your brand, to sell your clothes, along with the physical showrooms,” he continued.
Independent designers, especially, are suffering from the fast work pace, noted Martens.
“Everybody, especially independent designers, is having the same challenge; the pace is very fast, we work in an extremely fast pace, especially brands like us, which are doing four collections a year. It sometimes gets a bit crazy,” he said. The problem is that collections don’t always stay very long on the sales floor and don’t always fit the season.
“I think maybe we have to work on a different way of presenting the clothes, maybe in a different seasonal situation,” the designer suggested.
“I have seen so many people around me that had lived and thrived on a system [that] was more superficial and more commercial and more product orientated, and…I think this crisis, the whole fact that they were locked up for two months made people reflect more and go a little bit more to the essence,” he said.
“I do think that this is also going to be translated in the fashion indsutry and I believe that a lot of intriguing young creative brands have a base to survive,” he said.
“It’s going to be difficult times for everybody, maybe we have to step back a bit but do it in an enjoyable, happy way,” concluded Martens.
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jessicakehoe · 4 years
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51 Black-Run Fashion Businesses To Support Today and Always
We all have a responsibility to cultivate black culture in order for communities to thrive. After investing your time into bettering your awareness of systemic racism, familiarize yourself with those making a contribution to today’s style industry and make a purchase from a Black-run fashion brand if your budget allows. Here are 51 Black-run fashion brands to look into, both emerging and established, that span the world.
1/51
L’Uomo Strano
Canadian Mic. Carter’s designs challenge notions of gender-conformity and are made with decadent, eye-catching fabrics.
Buy Now
2/51
Bain
Montreal creative Linsey Myriam Bain launched her line of unisex nylon and leather bags in 2019.
Buy Now
3/51
Scy By Julius
This Toronto brand offers clever pieces done in reworked and upcycled textiles; one pair of jeans comes with six Pokemon cards inside clear pockets on the legs.
Buy Now
4/51
Omi Woods
The handmade designs conceived by Ashley Alexis McFarlane are crafted with fair trade and conflict-free materials.
Buy Now
5/51
Mas Montreal
Mckenna Bisson was inspired to launch her line of everyday essentials after realizing there was lack of clothing for people who, like herself, had an athletic build.
Buy Now
6/51
Mike Paul Atelier
Though his Toronto studio is currently only taking virtual consultations, you can still shop Mike-Paul Neufville’s selection of leather goods.
Buy Now
7/51
Selfish Swimwear
Montreal-based designer Naomie Caron uses a material made of recycled nylon fibre to create her cheerful swimwear.
Buy Now
8/51
Bustle
For almost 20 years, Toronto’s Bustle has offered an eclectic array of casual and evening wear developed by co-founders Shawn Hewson and Ruth Promislow.
9/51
Greta Constantine
Launched in 2006 by Kirk Pickersgill and Stephen Wong, this Toronto-based brand specializes in vibrant occasion wear.
Buy Now
10/51
Spencer Badu
This eponymous Toronto brand offers unisex casual wear, and its designer is nominated for a Canadian Art and Fashion Award this year.
Buy Now
11/51
LaQuan Smith
Based in Long Island City, this brand has garnered fans including Beyoncé and Winnie Harlow.
Buy Now
12/51
Hoax Couture
With the tagline ‘Let Us Make You More Fabulous’, this Toronto label focuses on custom formal wear.
Buy Now
13/51
Pretty Denim
Stylist Tahnee Lloyd-Smith launched this emerging label that’s composed of pieces from simple jeans to tailored outerwear.
Buy Now
14/51
Bum-Cake
This vintage company, founded by Christiana Greene, specializes in previously loved lingerie.
Buy Now
15/51
Réunion
Brooklyn-based Sarah Nsikak started this upcycling-centric venture as a way to honour African craft.
Buy Now
16/51
Telfar
Launched in 2005 by Telfar Clemens, this label is best known for its vegan leather bag that’s been nicknamed the ‘Bushwick Birkin’.
Buy Now
17/51
Dr. Liza
Originally focused on a classic pump style, this Canadian brand—founded by an osteopath—has expanded to include sandals, boots and flats.
Buy Now
18/51
Atelier New Regime
This Montreal-based brand, that was launched in 2009, mixes utility with novel fabrications.
Buy Now
19/51
Goodee
Montreal-based brothers Byron and Dexter Peart began this brand as a marketplace for well-designed wares from around the world, and recently launched a tote bag in partnership with the United Nation’s Ethical Fashion Initiative.
Buy Now
20/51
Cherry Gardens
Toronto-based art director and event producer Myla Davey launched this loungewear line in 2018.
Buy Now
21/51
Brother Vellies
New York-based Canadian Aurora James’ designs are made by global artisans.
Buy Now
22/51
Batik Boutik
Maya Amoah founded this brand in 2017; its bold pieces are made in Ghana.
Buy Now
23/51
Andrea Iyamah
Dumebi Iyamah might be best known for her brand’s swimwear, but it also offers ready-to-wear and bridal pieces.
Buy Now
24/51
Sami Miro
This L.A.-based eponymous label features pieces made from reused vintage and recycled materials.
Buy Now
25/51
Kaela Kay
“The future is bright, so why wear boring clothes?” asks this brand’s founder, Catherine Addai.
Buy Now
26/51
Victor Glemaud
Launched by Haitian-born Glemaud, the label was a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist in 2017.
Buy Now
27/51
Serendipitous Project
Founded last year by Sydney Ziems, this jewellery brand’s pieces are made-to-order in an effort to minimize production waste.
Buy Now
28/51
Bouswari
Diarra Bousso Niang’s brand offers classic handbags and small leather goods that are made in Senegal using local traditional techniques.
Buy Now
29/51
Öfuurë
Nigerian-Canadian Tehilah Abakasanga founded this clothing brand which has since expanded to include swimwear and beauty.
Buy Now
30/51
Pyer Moss
Designer Kerby Jean-Raymond’s brand has become one of the most celebrated collections in the fashion world; last year, Jean-Raymond was named creative director of Reebok Studies.
Buy Now
31/51
Nubian Skin
This size and gender-inclusive London-based undergarment, swim and hosiery line is helmed by Ade Hassan, MBE.
Buy Now
32/51
Fenty
When Rihanna launched her high-end label last year, she became the first black woman to lead a brand for luxury conglomerate LVMH.
Buy Now
33/51
Stella Jean
Italian designer Stella Jean’s label is focused on celebrating traditional craft from around the world, and providing opportunities for international artisans.
Buy Now
34/51
Christopher John Rogers
This young CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund winner’s designs can be found online exclusively via e-comm giant Net-A-Porter.
Buy Now
35/51
Wales Bonner
This brand, launched by Central Saint Martins grad Grace Wales Bonner, was the recipient of the LVMH Young Designer Prize in 2016.
Buy Now
36/51
Lem Lem
After visiting her native Ethiopia over a decade ago, model and entrepreneur Liya Kebede founded this collection of made-in-Africa pieces.
Buy Now
37/51
Lisa Folawiyo Studio
This directional label is a favourite of Solange and Lupita Nyong’o.
Buy Now
38/51
Heron Preston
Streetwear designer Preston is a graduate of Parsons School of Design; in 2016, he collaborated with the The City of New York Department of Sanitation to launch a sustainability-focused foundation.
Buy Now
39/51
Soko
This San Fransisco and Nairobi-based line was founded by Gwendolyn Floyd, Catherine Mahugu, and Ella Peinovich. As the brand is focused on ethical craft practices, the trio have developed an app to facilitate the the responsible standardization of its manufacturing process.
Buy Now
40/51
Kenneth Ize
Not only do this Nigerian designer’s eclectic patterned separates turn heads, Ize has caused a sensation during his runway shows for casting legendary model Naomi Campbell.
Buy Now
41/51
Cushnie
Carly Cushnie’s New York-based company counts Michelle Obama, Jennifer Lopez and Padma Lakshmi as fans. Bridal bonus: The brand also applies its contemporary design aesthetic to wedding wear.
Buy Now
42/51
Studio 189
Actress Rosario Dawson and one-time exec at Bottega Veneta, Abrima Erwiah, head up this label that offers womenswear, menswear and even has a kids collection.
Buy Now
43/51
Undra Celeste New York
This label is known for elevated takes on wardrobe essentials like blazers, turtlenecks and wrap dresses; it also offers more flamboyant styles like one-shoulder tops and metallic trousers.
Buy Now
44/51
Tove Studio
Described as having an “advanced contemporary” direction, this London brand was founded by Holly Wright and Camille Perry, former heads of design and of buying for Topshop.
Buy Now
45/51
Martine Rose
London-based menswear designer Rose began her brand in 2007 as a shirting label. It’s since grown to include denim and accessories.
Buy Now
46/51
Maki Oh
You can shop a range of boldly printed shirts from Maki Osakwe’s 10-year-old Lagos-based line.
47/51
Mateo
Jamaican-born designer Matthew Harris creates luxe jewellery and bags at contemporary price points.
Buy Now
48/51
Fe Noel
Hailing from Brooklyn and inspired by her family’s Grenadian heritage, Felisha Noel gives a lively twist to pieces like sultry robes, wide-leg pants and bodysuits.
Buy Now
49/51
Romeo Hunte
This audacious New York brand recently collaborated with iconic Australian label Coogi on a selection of wildly printed pieces.
Buy Now
50/51
Gazelles
Montreal designer Habi Gerba offers made-to-measure services as well as a collection of understated staples like delicate blouses and timeless frocks.
Buy Now
51/51
A-Cold-Wall
Under the creative direction of Samuel Ross, this brand offers elevated staples including sneakers, utilitarian shirting and outerwear; the fashion industry has taken notice, and in 2018, Ross won the British Emerging Talent Menswear category at the British Fashion Awards.
Buy Now
The post 51 Black-Run Fashion Businesses To Support Today and Always appeared first on FASHION Magazine.
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About The Collection
Also to understand this collection better I read the Vogue coverage on it, it said: “It has been a year since Pyer Moss invited Fashion Week to Weeksville, the historic black neighbourhood in Brooklyn. The second instalment in “American, Also,” a three-part series of collections addressing the erasure of African American narratives in popular culture, the moving show was hailed as one of the best of the season and positioned the brand squarely in the New York spotlight. So when designer Kerby Jean-Raymond decided to go on hiatus last season, shortly after winning the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award, many wondered if he could keep the momentum going.
With the Pyer Moss name in bright lights at the Kings Theatre in Brooklyn last night, Jean-Raymond was ready to turn the volume up in a major way. The endless lines of people outside the venue—a combination of industry insiders, celebrities, and those fans who were lucky enough to score one of 500 free tickets—gave some indication of the scale and ambition of the project. Walking onto the scene, it was easy to imagine the production costs running well into the hundreds of thousands, which they did to the tune of around $400,000. Puzzled passersby on Flatbush Avenue all seemed to be asking themselves the same question: What kind of performer draws a sold-out crowd at this 3,000-person-capacity venue on a Sunday night?
Entitled “Sister,” the third and final chapter in the Pyer Moss trilogy paid homage to Sister Rosetta Tharpe. A singer-songwriter who rose to popularity in the 1930s and ’40s, Tharpe is widely considered to be the godmother of rock and roll, though her legacy has been grossly diminished in music’s history book. “I think relatively few people know that the sound of rock and roll was invented by a queer black woman in a church,” said Jean-Raymond backstage, moments after the show. “I wanted to explore what that aesthetic might have looked like if her story would have been told.”
Beyond being places of worship, churches have long served as safe spaces for black communities across America, though you could just as easily add nightclubs and dance halls to that list. No matter what form it takes, the notion of creative refuge and freedom of expression has become more vital than ever for people of color in the tumult of Donald Trump’s presidency. Delivered by writer Casey Gerald, who is known for his incisive social commentary, the sermon that opened the show was both uplifting and unapologetically political. “Four hundred years have passed since they brought our people to this land . . . and I’ve come here to say you can’t hurt us no more,” said Gerald in reference to the anniversary of slavery in America. “They knew that no matter how their master treated them, no matter how the world treated them, they had freedom on the inside that the world could not take away . . . . And we are here tonight to claim our wings.”
It was at that moment that the band and so-called Pyer Moss Tabernacle Drip Choir Drench in the Blood took center stage. Buoyed by their 70-plus ethereal voices, Jean-Raymond set forth his vision for rock-star style. As the first model bounded down the runway to the sound of Anita Baker’s “Sweet Love,” sporting rhinestone-studded wide-leg pants, a bolero jacket, and a halolike Afro, the staid rocker archetype—skinny, white, male—was instantly turned on its head. There were obvious nods to Tharpe’s musicianship; the shape of her guitar was threaded through the curvy lapels of satin overcoats, and the most literal reference was a novelty guitar-shaped handbag. The subtle nods to her style resonated the most: a slightly monastic scarlet silk tunic layered over matching satin pants, for example.
Tharpe wasn’t the only prolific black songstress on the Pyer Moss mood board. Look closely at the chunky gold beads that were threaded onto braids and strung on statement necklaces, and you’ll find they were brilliantly molded in the likeness of Lauryn Hill and Erykah Badu. The rousing soundtrack included songs by several more legendary black female artists too, most notably Missy Elliott, who was recently honored for her phenomenal contribution to hip-hop with the prestigious Vanguard Award at the MTV Video Music Awards last month. After last season’s partnership with Derrick Adams, Jean-Raymond sought out the talent of Richard Phillips, an artist who recently made headline news after he was exonerated after spending 45 years in prison for a crime he didn’t commit. His brightly colored figurative paintings lent a sense of exuberance to techy black track tops and oversize T-shirt dresses. Sean John was on the list of collaborators this season, as well, the last in a trio of black legacy brands Jean-Raymond has worked with for “American, Also,” including FUBU and Cross Colours.
With his new role as artistic director at Reebok, Jean-Raymond is adding another string to his bow. The clothing he showed as part of an ongoing collaboration with the sportswear label was his most confident capsule yet, and it included a chunky Pyer Moss–ified version of the brand’s classic shoe done in an array of eye-catching colors. Known as Reebok Studies, the new division he will oversee will act as an incubator for young talent, and it affords him the power to raise up a new generation of designers. “I remember when Puffy won the CFDA Award,” said Jean-Raymond, who was working at a sneaker shop just blocks from Kings Theatre at the time. “As a kid I never thought that I could get into fashion if I didn’t learn to rap first.” These days he doesn’t second-guess himself, nor should he. He’s living proof that marching to the beat of your own drummer pays off.”
NEW YORK,SEPTEMBER 9, 2019 by CHIOMA NNADI
vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/pyer-moss
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biofunmy · 4 years
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Even ‘Project Runway’ Couldn’t Save Zac Posen
Once upon a time, back in ye olde days of 2002, a young designer, just shy of 21 years old, was discovered by a store that was famous throughout the land for crowning the new princes of fashion. And so he was named, and so he was celebrated, and so it came to pass — at least for awhile.
He made big, lavish ball gowns. He wore top hats and tails. The most famous women wore his clothes and became his friends. Rich men invested. He won awards. He was on a reality TV show. He had a documentary made about him.
And last week, both his company and the store that first found him met their demise.
On Friday, not long after a bankruptcy court in Poughkeepsie, N.Y., put the final stamp on the sale of Barneys’ intellectual property to Authentic Brands Group, beginning the closure of its bricks and mortar stores, liquidation of its inventory and the start of its new life as a disembodied brand, an announcement came that Mr. Posen’s board had “determined to cease business operations and carry out an orderly disposition of its assets.”
Essentially, after what the announcement called a “comprehensive strategic and financial review of the businesses,” his backers had lost faith in the company. Ron Burkle of Yucaipa Companies, the majority owner, had been trying to sell his stake since April, with no success.
The brand’s approximately 60 employees were let go. Its former web address now links to a Shopify site. On Instagram, Mr. Posen thanked his team and “all those who have stood by me and the brand.”
The fairy tales of both Barneys New York and Zac Posen do not have a happy ending.
Derek Blasberg, fashion and beauty director of YouTube, tweeted, “Fashion has been (and always will be) a tough business, but it’s like 2002 is imploding!”
Maybe. Or maybe what the end of Barneys and the end of Zac Posen (at least as we currently know them) is really about is the end of a certain kind of fashion story, one that hasn’t really been relevant for awhile.
After all, Mr. Posen is not the first of his generation of designers — the generation that emerged post-9/11 and pre-global downturn, and was thrust into the spotlight very early on as part of a concerted effort to create a positive narrative in a dark time — to hit the hurdle of the changing business of today and not be able to get over it. He is simply the designer probably best known outside the ivory tower of fashion.
Derek Lam, for example, who also founded his business in 2002, was a runner-up in the 2005 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund and won the CFDA emerging designer award for women’s wear the same year, decided earlier this year to close his high-end business and focus on a contemporary line. Thakoon Panichgul, who started his namesake line in 2004 and won the CFDA/Vogue award in 2006, put it on pause in 2017 and has now relaunched with a direct-to-consumer model. Behnaz Sarafpour, who also started her line in 2001 and was often nominated for CFDA awards, has switched from ready-to-wear to fragrances.
All were (and are) talented. But they came into the industry at a time when careers could be made by very specific gatekeepers and kingmakers: department stores, who held the keys to national reach, and glossy magazines, which served as the conduits to consumers, dictating trends and the names everyone needed to know.
And not long after they arrived, all of that changed. The premises on which Mr. Posen and his peers based their careers — that a seal of approval from Vogue, for example, was all the push you needed; that celebrities on the red carpet were the best marketing you could have; that a department store like Barneys was the open door to a consumer sector — no longer held true in the fractured age of social media, peer influencers and direct communication.
They were following one plotline, and all of a sudden it went veering off in multiple different directions.
Mr. Posen’s began as the charming wunderkind who grew up in TriBeCa, went to the arts-oriented private school Saint Ann’s, did a stint at Parsons, and was discovered before he had even graduated from Central Saint Martins in London. Naomi Campbell wore his clothes; so did Natalie Portman, Claire Danes, Katie Holmes and Lena Dunham.
He made himself into the P.T. Barnum of New York Fashion Week, and attracted investment from Sean Combs. (When Yucaipa bought a stake in Mr. Combs’s Sean John brand, it took over the investment in Mr. Posen’s brand.) He became the model of the well-connected, well-dressed, publicity-loving young designer. The red carpet was his happy place. It was also his distraction.
He suffered the fall from grace of the braggart, took himself to Paris in 2010 because he thought it might understand him better, and then returned, penitent and ready to work. His mother, a lawyer who had been his C.E.O., stepped down to make way for professional management.
Mr. Posen took on side gigs to support his brand: creative director of Brooks Brothers, designer of uniforms for Delta Air Lines. He was a judge on “Project Runway” from 2012 to 2018. He started a contemporary line, and did a collection for David’s Bridal. He embraced Instagram. (He has 1.9 million followers.) He owned his own mistakes, most publicly in “House of Z,” a 2017 documentary about his rise and fall and return. He wrote a cookbook. He was a regular at the Met Gala.
But weeks before he appeared on that 2019 red carpet with Jourdan Dunn (among others) on his arm, WWD reported his backers had begun looking for someone to buy their stake. They couldn’t find one.
It’s easy to blame the rise of the big luxury groups and the meddling of private equity, with its desire to get in and out of investments fast, for the difficulty of being a small, independent designer today. Certainly, financial engineering plays a part. But culture has changed, too.
The fairy tales of today center on nontraditional start-ups, disrupters geared toward a different value system (also a different commercial system). Their heroes have names like Supreme and Everlane and Outdoor Voices; Telfar and Pyer Moss. They are less about escapism, glamour and the power brokers of old, and more about the urgency of contemporary issues. They are built on a different kind of community and identity politics, and they have a different story arc.
Mr. Posen says he will be back. If so, that will be a fable to watch. For now, it’s about time fashion woke up and started rewriting its own myths.
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cicadawhite6 · 5 years
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LVMH Announces 2019 Prize Finalists
Earlier today, the 8 Finalists for the LVMH prize were announced in Paris. In terms of gender, race, and geography they represent the most diverse selection of finalists since the prize’s inception. This comes at a time where fashion is holding itself accountable for the lack of diversity and inclusion that has been present in the industry for far too long. This year, most of the contestants are putting sustainability at the forefront of their brands and priding themselves on environmental consciousness and implementing ethical changes in fashion.
Since 2013, the LVMH prize has elevated young designers from around the world and provided them with the essentials and tools needed to run a successful fashion business. The winner will receive 300,000 euros in grant money and be paired with a fashion mentor who will help them to establish the fundamental aspects of their brand. The LVMH prize winner will be announced in June. This will be the first jury that doesn’t include the late Karl Lagerfeld.
Keep scrolling to get to know the eight finalists
Kunihiko Morinaga, Anrelage
Kunihiko Morinaga is a Tokyo-based designer. His brand Anrelage was founded in 2003, showing their first collection publicly in 2006. The brand is known for its intricate patchwork and sculptural shapes where Morinaga is able to incorporate innovative design technologies like phone signal repelling garments
Bethany Williams
Bethany Williams is a London-based designer who a laser-focus on sustainability and social consciousness with her eponymous brand, founded in 2017. Her design ethos centers around the exploration of innovative design solutions through ethically sourced materials, every one of her pieces is 100% sustainable.
Emily Adams Bode, BODE
Emily Adams Bode is a luxury menswear designer behind the New York-based brand Bode launched in 2016. Emily draws on personal narratives to create modern work-wear silhouettes, incorporating female-centric traditions of quilting, mending, and applique into each of her collections. Last year, she was a finalist for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund.
Hed Mayner
Hed Mayner is an Israeli Paris-based designer behind the brand of the same name which launched back in 2013. His designs, inspired by Jewish Orthodox tailoring and military outerwear, have an emphasis on gender fluidity and the elements of spirituality and strength deliver a unique luxury to his garments.
Kenneth Izedonmwen, Kenneth Ize
Nigerian designer Kenneth Ize founded his namesake brand in 2013. Ize brings together a variety of textiles and cross-cultural experiences to create a unique idea of what luxury can be. Through older construction methods like weaving and looming, he is able to execute sustainable practices in his designs.
Spencer Phipps, Phipps
Spencer Phipps is an American designer with an ethical focus on changing the relationship that fashion has with the environment. The brand was founded in 2017 and specializes in sustainable manufacturing practices which included the sourcing of eco-friendly materials. Phipps features structured outerwear, tees, and cargo-pocketed garments in his collections, and hopes that the message of “education” (in the realm of ethical fashion) is always conveyed through his clothes.
Stefan Cooke and Jake Burt, Stefan Cooke
Stefan Cooke designs with accessible dressing in mind and fashioning the mundane. The brand was established in 2017 and consists of Stefan Cooke and Jake Burt, two recent Central Saint Martins graduates who describe their garments as “tailoring and nice trousers.” Stefan Cook reconstructs garments made of tougher materials into softer, body-contouring silhouettes. In 2018, they won the H&M design award, a prize to help launch the careers of recent design graduates.
Thebe Magugu
Since 2015, South African designer Thebe Magugu has been creating an eponymous brand that looks to novelty and culture to enhance the way that women dress. The brand’s designs function at the intersection of modernity and the rich history and multi-faceted continent of Africa.
Source: https://www.teenvogue.com/story/lvmh-prize-finalists-2019
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thehowtostuff-blog · 5 years
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Of all the Fall 2018 runway shows I attended at New York Fashion Week, the only show that felt truly necessary was Pyer Moss.
As I took my seat at Spring Studios, a live gospel choir dressed all in white began to sing a medley including “Nobody Knows All the Trouble I’ve Seen,” and my blood turned to chill as the song shifted, and the line, “Too many n****s on Rikers Island, why must it be,” rang out. I hadn’t expected to come to a fashion show expecting to have the racial disparities in incarceration statistics highlighted, but Pyer Moss’ choice to present a political message against the glitzy backdrop of a fashion show amounted to sheer brilliance. The choir, alongside the casting, which featured only POC models, presented such a triumphant message of Black pride that I was verklempt to see a show that didn’t pay lip service to diversity but embodied it in every aspect of the show.
Pyer Moss stood in opposition to that patent whiteness that tends to envelop fashion week – there was a visible difference in who attended the Pyer Moss show vs who attended other shows – and the show felt like a historic moment; a communion between the audience members, who all rose to give the brand a standing ovation at the show’s end.
Last night, Pyer Moss, an independent label founded in 2013 by the 31-year-old Black designer Kerby-Jean Raymond won the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award, a prize of $400,000. Previous winners include The Row, Proenza Schouler, and Alexander Wang; a rarefied group of designers who tend to achieve massive success post-win. This year’s runners-up were Bode, a menswear brand that repurposes antique quilts into boxy jackets and Jonathan Cohen, who designs playful, colourful womenswear, who each win $150,000.
Pyer Moss’ work focuses not only on dramatic silhouettes and artistic flourishes; it highlights racism, police brutality, incarceration and other issues faces disproportionately by marginalized communities. Raymond is doing work that no one else in the fashion industry can claim to be doing; producing amazing clothes that actually mean something. He’s a true vanguard and the most deserving player to win this award.
In an interview with the New York Times earlier this year, Raymond said, “I don’t want to sound narcissistic at all, but I do believe that I am one of the thought leaders that have emerged in the past five years. Every industry had a person that led the march to modernizing the understanding of what black life is: In music, it was Solange. In television, it was “Insecure.” In sports, it was Colin Kaepernick and Serena Williams. And in fashion, I don’t think there is another me.”
He’s right. And we’re lucky to have him.
The post Why Kerby-Jean Raymond is the Most Important Designer in the World Right Now appeared first on FASHION Magazine.
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kentonramsey · 4 years
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Christopher John Rogers, Staud, & More Nominated For CFDA’s Emerging Designer Award
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On Monday, the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) announced the nominees for the 2020 Fashion Awards. And while most of the names are (unsurprisingly) similar to those of years past (The Row, Marc Jacobs, etc.), one category’s selection of designers is an exciting one.
This year — aside from Sarah Staudinger and George Augusto, of the cult favourite Instagram brand, Staud, who were nominated for the same award last year — the CFDA chose an entirely fresh selection of designers to uplift for the category of American Emerging Designer of the Year. In addition to Staud, the list includes Christopher John Rogers, who in 2019 won the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award; Kenneth Nicholson, a Black designer who began making clothing at 14 before enlisting in the US Navy; Peter Do, the 2014 LVMH Graduates Prize winner who worked under Phoebe Philo at Céline; and Reese Cooper, a menswear designer who founded his namesake label at just 18-years-old in 2016. 
In 2019, the nominees were Heron Preston, who collaborated with Virgil Abloh and Justin Saunders on the streetwear brand Been Trill prior to launching his namesake in 2017; Emily Adams Bode of menswear brand Bode; Beth Bugdaycay of jewellery brand Foundrae; Catherine Holstein of Khaite; and Staudinger and Augusto. In the end, it was Bode that took home the prize. 
While the nominations for the 2020 American Emerging Designer of the Year are certainly worth celebrating, the other five Fashion Awards categories this year exemplify what many believe is fashion’s inability to change and evolve. Tom Ford, who won the ceremony’s Lifetime Achievement Award in 2014 and is currently the Chairman of the CFDA, is up for not one, but two more nominations this year for American Womenswear Designer of the Year and American Menswear Designer of the year. He’s already won six other CFDA awards in the past. Marc Jacobs, Thom Browne, and The Row’s Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen have previously also won numerous CFDA awards. Right now, when the world is looking closely at fashion to see how it will amplify and support BIPOC voices that have historically been overlooked, the CFDA had an opportunity to do something different. Yes, the nominations were submitted prior to the protests following George Floyd’s death in May, as well as the pandemic, but, as the leading figures of influence in fashion, the CFDA has an opportunity to lead the pack in supporting BIPOC and young designers. And yet — aside from the Emerging Designers category and promising to make “changes to bring racial equity to the fashion industry” (see below) — it’s clear that it didn’t take it. 
With no in-person event being held this year due to the pandemic, this year’s winners will instead be announced on CFDA.com on the morning of 14th September as an opening of sorts for the New York Fashion Week. “In this time of unprecedented challenge and change for our industry, we feel very strongly that it is important to recognise the nominees representing the best of fashion creativity,” Ford said in a press release. His sentiment was seconded by the CFDA’s President and CEO Steven Kolb, who stated: “In lieu of the in-person event, we will be prioritising new and existing programming to support our designer community during the global pandemic – by redirecting efforts towards next generation scholarships and making important changes to bring racial equity to the fashion industry.” 
See the nominations for all six categories below. 
American Womenswear Designer of the Year:
Ashley Olsen and Mary-Kate Olsen for The Row
Brandon Maxwell
Gabriela Hearst
Marc Jacobs
Tom Ford
American Menswear Designer of the Year:
Emily Adams Bode for Bode
Kerby Jean-Raymond for Pyer Moss
Thom Browne
Todd Snyder
Tom Ford
American Accessories Designer of the Year:
Ashley Olsen and Mary-Kate Olsen for The Row
Gabriela Hearst
Jennifer Fisher for Jennifer Fisher Jewelry
Stuart Vevers for Coach
Telfar Clemens for Telfar
American Emerging Designer of the Year:
Christopher John Rogers
Kenneth Nicholson
Peter Do
Reese Cooper
Sarah Staudinger and George Augusto for Staud
Global Women’s Designer of the Year:
Daniel Lee for Bottega Veneta
Dries Van Noten
Miuccia Prada for Prada
Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino
Rick Owens
Global Men’s Designer of the Year:
Craig Green
Dries Van Noten
Jonathan Anderson for Loewe
Kim Jones for Dior
Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton
Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?
Will NYFW Actually Happen?
Christopher John Rogers Is On Top Of His Game
Mrs. America, Feminism & Fashion
Christopher John Rogers, Staud, & More Nominated For CFDA’s Emerging Designer Award published first on https://mariakistler.tumblr.com/
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lindyhunt · 5 years
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Why Kerby-Jean Raymond is the Most Important Designer in the World Right Now
Of all the Fall 2018 runway shows I attended at New York Fashion Week, the only show that felt truly necessary was Pyer Moss.
As I took my seat at Spring Studios, a live gospel choir dressed all in white began to sing a medley including “Nobody Knows All the Trouble I’ve Seen,” and my blood turned to chill as the song shifted, and the line, “Too many n****s on Rikers Island, why must it be,” rang out. I hadn’t expected to come to a fashion show expecting to have the racial disparities in incarceration statistics highlighted, but Pyer Moss’ choice to present a political message against the glitzy backdrop of a fashion show amounted to sheer brilliance. The choir, alongside the casting, which featured only POC models, presented such a triumphant message of Black pride that I was verklempt to see a show that didn’t pay lip service to diversity but embodied it in every aspect of the show.
Pyer Moss stood in opposition to that patent whiteness that tends to envelop fashion week – there was a visible difference in who attended the Pyer Moss show vs who attended other shows – and the show felt like a historic moment; a communion between the audience members, who all rose to give the brand a standing ovation at the show’s end.
Last night, Pyer Moss, an independent label founded in 2013 by the 31-year-old Black designer Kerby-Jean Raymond won the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award, a prize of $400,000. Previous winners include The Row, Proenza Schouler, and Alexander Wang; a rarefied group of designers who tend to achieve massive success post-win. This year’s runners-up were Bode, a menswear brand that repurposes antique quilts into boxy jackets and Jonathan Cohen, who designs playful, colourful womenswear, who each win $150,000.
Pyer Moss’ work focuses not only on dramatic silhouettes and artistic flourishes; it highlights racism, police brutality, incarceration and other issues faces disproportionately by marginalized communities. Raymond is doing work that no one else in the fashion industry can claim to be doing; producing amazing clothes that actually mean something. He’s a true vanguard and the most deserving player to win this award.
In an interview with the New York Times earlier this year, Raymond said, “I don’t want to sound narcissistic at all, but I do believe that I am one of the thought leaders that have emerged in the past five years. Every industry had a person that led the march to modernizing the understanding of what black life is: In music, it was Solange. In television, it was “Insecure.” In sports, it was Colin Kaepernick and Serena Williams. And in fashion, I don’t think there is another me.”
He’s right. And we’re lucky to have him.
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kentonramsey · 4 years
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Christopher John Rogers, Staud, & More Nominated For CFDA’s Emerging Designer Award
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On Monday, the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) announced the nominees for the 2020 Fashion Awards. And while most of the names are (unsurprisingly) similar to those of years past (The Row, Marc Jacobs, etc.), one category’s selection of designers is an exciting one.
This year — aside from Sarah Staudinger and George Augusto, of the cult favourite Instagram brand, Staud, who were nominated for the same award last year — the CFDA chose an entirely fresh selection of designers to uplift for the category of American Emerging Designer of the Year. In addition to Staud, the list includes Christopher John Rogers, who in 2019 won the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award; Kenneth Nicholson, a Black designer who began making clothing at 14 before enlisting in the US Navy; Peter Do, the 2014 LVMH Graduates Prize winner who worked under Phoebe Philo at Céline; and Reese Cooper, a menswear designer who founded his namesake label at just 18-years-old in 2016. 
In 2019, the nominees were Heron Preston, who collaborated with Virgil Abloh and Justin Saunders on the streetwear brand Been Trill prior to launching his namesake in 2017; Emily Adams Bode of menswear brand Bode; Beth Bugdaycay of jewellery brand Foundrae; Catherine Holstein of Khaite; and Staudinger and Augusto. In the end, it was Bode that took home the prize. 
While the nominations for the 2020 American Emerging Designer of the Year are certainly worth celebrating, the other five Fashion Awards categories this year exemplify what many believe is fashion’s inability to change and evolve. Tom Ford, who won the ceremony’s Lifetime Achievement Award in 2014 and is currently the Chairman of the CFDA, is up for not one, but two more nominations this year for American Womenswear Designer of the Year and American Menswear Designer of the year. He’s already won six other CFDA awards in the past. Marc Jacobs, Thom Browne, and The Row’s Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen have previously also won numerous CFDA awards. Right now, when the world is looking closely at fashion to see how it will amplify and support BIPOC voices that have historically been overlooked, the CFDA had an opportunity to do something different. Yes, the nominations were submitted prior to the protests following George Floyd’s death in May, as well as the pandemic, but, as the leading figures of influence in fashion, the CFDA has an opportunity to lead the pack in supporting BIPOC and young designers. And yet — aside from the Emerging Designers category and promising to make “changes to bring racial equity to the fashion industry” (see below) — it’s clear that it didn’t take it. 
With no in-person event being held this year due to the pandemic, this year’s winners will instead be announced on CFDA.com on the morning of 14th September as an opening of sorts for the New York Fashion Week. “In this time of unprecedented challenge and change for our industry, we feel very strongly that it is important to recognise the nominees representing the best of fashion creativity,” Ford said in a press release. His sentiment was seconded by the CFDA’s President and CEO Steven Kolb, who stated: “In lieu of the in-person event, we will be prioritising new and existing programming to support our designer community during the global pandemic – by redirecting efforts towards next generation scholarships and making important changes to bring racial equity to the fashion industry.” 
See the nominations for all six categories below. 
American Womenswear Designer of the Year:
Ashley Olsen and Mary-Kate Olsen for The Row
Brandon Maxwell
Gabriela Hearst
Marc Jacobs
Tom Ford
American Menswear Designer of the Year:
Emily Adams Bode for Bode
Kerby Jean-Raymond for Pyer Moss
Thom Browne
Todd Snyder
Tom Ford
American Accessories Designer of the Year:
Ashley Olsen and Mary-Kate Olsen for The Row
Gabriela Hearst
Jennifer Fisher for Jennifer Fisher Jewelry
Stuart Vevers for Coach
Telfar Clemens for Telfar
American Emerging Designer of the Year:
Christopher John Rogers
Kenneth Nicholson
Peter Do
Reese Cooper
Sarah Staudinger and George Augusto for Staud
Global Women’s Designer of the Year:
Daniel Lee for Bottega Veneta
Dries Van Noten
Miuccia Prada for Prada
Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino
Rick Owens
Global Men’s Designer of the Year:
Craig Green
Dries Van Noten
Jonathan Anderson for Loewe
Kim Jones for Dior
Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton
Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?
Will NYFW Actually Happen?
Christopher John Rogers Is On Top Of His Game
Mrs. America, Feminism & Fashion
Christopher John Rogers, Staud, & More Nominated For CFDA’s Emerging Designer Award published first on https://mariakistler.tumblr.com/
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kentonramsey · 4 years
Text
Black Queer People In Fashion To Support During Pride Month — & Beyond
This year, Pride month — which marks the 51st anniversary of the Stonewall Riots, when Black LBGTQ+ activists like Stormé DeLarverie and Marsha P. Johnson led demonstrations in NYC after the police raided Greenwich Village’s Stonewall Inn — intersects with a moment in history when the racist treatment of Black people in America is finally getting the widespread attention and action it deserves. Now it’s more important than ever to tell the often untold stories of Black queer designers, models, stylists, and more who’ve shaped the fashion industry. It’s also time to address present-day issues head-on: Many Black and queer people working in fashion are still subject to inequalities like pay discrepancies, tokenisation, and difficulties getting coverage for their work in a landscape that more often than not favours whiteness, as well as people who identify as cis and straight.  When talking about Black queer people in fashion, it's important to acknowledge people who paved way like Willi Smith, the Philadelphia-born designer credited for introducing streetwear to the runway. The Philadelphia-born designer, who passed away in 1987 from AIDS-related causes, was also the youngest designer to be nominated for a Coty Award in 1971, a feat he accomplished five years before launching his own label, WilliWear. Created with friend and business partner Laurie Mallet, the brand quickly became a favourite of everyday people in New York due to its affordable price point and cool, sporty aesthetic. According to the CFDA, in 1986, WilliWear was grossing over $25 million (£20 million) a year and sold in over 500 retailers. At the time of his death, Smith was widely regarded as the most successful Black designer in fashion.  Today there are many prominent and successful Black LGBTQ+ people in fashion. From Ama Elsesser, the Savage x Fenty model who in January announced that they were non-binary to CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund winner Christopher John Rogers, ahead, a list of Black queer people in fashion to follow and support this month and beyond.
Ama Elsesser
IMG model and younger sibling of CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund judge Paloma Elsesser, Ama Elsesser is a force of their own. At just 21-years-old, Elsesser has already been featured in Jonah Hill’s cult-favourite film Mid-90s, starred in a campaign for Rihanna’s lingerie line Savage x Fenty, and modelled alongside Sonic Youth’s Kim Gordon, Slick Woods, and Luka Sabbat in an UGG campaign. In January, they came out publicly as non-binary, and just last month starred in Calvin Klein’s star-studded Pride campaign, for which they told Refinery29 that their goal in modelling is to “create space for more marginalised queer people of colour.”
Christopher John Rogers
In his 26 years, Baton Rouge-born Christopher John Rogers has already dressed Michelle Obama, won the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award, and presented three collections during New York Fashion Week — the latest of which was his most impressive to date and resulted in the designer twirling on the runway to the sound of a standing ovation. "The next big goal for the brand is to continue to exist,” he said in an interview preluding the show, but, from where we’re sitting, that was just Rogers being humble.
Jason Bolden
Ever wondered how celebrities like Alicia Keys, Yara Shahidi, Zazie Beetz, and Cynthia Erivo always look so perfectly put together? Nine times out of ten, it’s because Jason Bolden, the co-founder of JVN Studio and a renowned celebrity stylist, picked out their outfits. In addition to dressing your favourite A-listers for the red carpet, Bolden also stars on the Netflix home design show Styling Hollywood and was included on Hollywood Reporter’s ​Top 25 Most Powerful Stylists for the last three years.
Kenneth Nicholson 
Given that he’s already dressed the likes of Lil Nas X and Parker Kit Hill for Out Magazine, it’s no surprise that designer Kenneth Nicholson is garnering massive attention. The LA native has a knack for creating feel-good clothing, be it because of the bright and warm colour schemes he chooses or the romantic fabrics and silhouettes that can be found in his collections.
LaQuan Smith
31-year-old Queens native LaQuan Smith founded his eponymous label in 2008, debuting at NYFW just two years later to a crowd that included Vogue’s then-Editor-at-Large Andre Leon Talley. His designs have since caught the attention of Lady Gaga, Beyoncé, Rihanna, and Kim Kardashian West, as well as fine winery Moët Chandon, which tapped Smith for its annual Nectar of the Culture program. As for the pieces he creates, expect clothing designed especially to make women feel empowered and sexy, like mini dresses that accentuate curves and leather pants.
Nicole Zïzi Studio
Sustainability and inclusivity are at the core of every piece of clothing designed by Nicole Zïzi. “As a nod to circularity, I aim to protect our communities while simultaneously I am always keeping in mind the way each design affects our environment as a whole," she wrote on her website, which serves the fashion community with gender-free sportswear, including utility jackets, graphic T-shirts, and accessories.
Pierre Davis, No Sesso
Pierre Davis’s genderless fashion label No Sesso — which in Italian translates to “No Sex/No Gender” — made its NYFW debut during the fall ‘20 season, making Davis the first-ever trans person to present at the biannual event. Founded in 2015, the LA-based brand is centered around community and inclusivity. “It’s a lifestyle that encompasses fashion, our parties, embroidery workshops, or just hanging out and feeling that sense of community,” Davis told the CFDA. A favorite of Kelela, Erykah Badu, and Kelsey Lu, No Sesso is quickly becoming the brand to watch in 2020.
James Phlemuns, Phlemuns
Another favourite of Lil Nas X, Phlemuns is an L.A.-based gender-inclusive fashion label founded by James Flemons. And the Grammy-Award-winning musician behind “Old Town Road” isn’t alone — Kelsey Lu, Paloma Elsesser, and Paramore’s Hayley Williams are fans of Phlemuns, too.
Uzo Ejikeme and Stoney Michelli Love, Stuzo Clothing
Founded in 2010 by Panamanian graphic designer, actor, and photographer Stoney Michelli and Nigerian activist and artist Uzo Ejikemo, Stuzo may be a gender-free clothing brand based in L.A. but it is inspired by New York’s bustling atmosphere.
Telfar Clemons, Telfar
CFDA-winning Liberian-American fashion designer Telfar Clemons is most notable for his iconic Shopping Bag, a simple square tote that makeup artist Xya Rachel referred to in a now-viral tweet in 2019 as “The Bushwick Birkin” due to its cult status in the Brooklyn neighbourhood. But that’s not all Clemons is known for. His use of classic American typefaces, paired with his unique take on simple sportswear, has made him beloved by all — in Bushwick and beyond — with fans including Solange Knowles, Kelsey Lu, and A$AP Ferg.
Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?
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Black Queer People In Fashion To Support During Pride Month — & Beyond published first on https://mariakistler.tumblr.com/
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