Tumgik
#layer-0
shifting---patterns · 2 months
Text
Wearing Time: Carpe Diem and the Artistry of Anti-Fashion (Pt. 1 / 2)
Tumblr media
In today's article, I want to tell you something about what I consider the most important and influential artist collective in avant-garde fashion.
A collective whose artists, their labels, and their design language have impressed me so much that it has completely changed my perspective on how clothing is created, what its purpose really is, and the impact it can have.
/// Carpe Diem, an avant-garde designer collective, was founded in 1996 in Perugia, Italy, by Maurizio Altieri. There are conflicting reports on the founding year, with sources mentioning 1994, 1998, and 1999 (the latter mentioned by Maurizio Amadei of M.A+ in a podcast with Lucentement). The visionary minds, particularly Maurizio Altieri, initially specialized in leather design, working with materials such as horsehide, cowhide, and anaconda.
Tumblr media Tumblr media
These materials underwent intricate hand treatments, including washing, distressing, crushing, and burial in the ground for months. Carpe Diem quickly established itself as an avant-garde trailblazer, gaining recognition for its commitment to quality and craftsmanship. Originally concentrating on shoes, the brand later expanded its offerings to include clothing.
In 2006, Carpe Diem disbanded due to its increasing mainstream popularity, paving the way for other brands to follow its innovative path. This marked the peak of Carpe Diem's fame, with celebrities like Brad Pitt seen wearing their leather shirts. The surge in investor interest eventually led to Maurizio Altieri abandoning the label.
Tumblr media Tumblr media
In recent years, Carpe Diem has been acquired by a Japanese company, resulting in the reissue of some designs and the introduction of new ones. However, signs indicate that Altieri and his colleagues are no longer actively involved in the design process.
Carpe Diem's influence extends to avant-garde brands like Carol Christian Poell, Boris Bidjan Saberi, Layer-0, and others, incorporating designs such as twisted seams, dropped-crotch trousers, asymmetric plackets, and J-cut pants. The brand's collections, including L'Maltieri (knitwear), Sartoria (made-to-measure), and Linea (jackets, pants, and T-shirts), aimed to diversify offerings.
Tumblr media Tumblr media
The Linea collection, utilizing a 3x3 modular system, features interchangeable and conceptually connected laser-cut jackets, cotton pants, and T-shirts.
Tumblr media Tumblr media
Sartoria, a customized line derived from Linea, maintains the "arte povera" aesthetic with crumpled, washed, and treated leather. Custom items required visits to a Parisian garage for fitting and digital photography, and delivery took 60 days, utilizing leather buried in the deserts of Afghanistan.
Tumblr media Tumblr media
The distinctive feature of hanging garments on meat hooks pays homage to the label's origins as a leather house. The Sartoria line has evolved into the fifth line named Anatomica, propably my favorite collection of Carpe Diem.
Tumblr media Tumblr media
Now, let's introduce the creative minds behind Carpe Diem in detail: Maurizio Altieri Maurizio Altieri, the visionary founder of Carpe Diem, is a perfectionist who brings an academic background in business and law to the world of fashion. His professional journey began at Chrome Hearts, where he honed fundamental skills in craftsmanship and leather treatment. In 1996, Altieri departed from Chrome Hearts to establish Carpe Diem, driven by a philosophy to craft timeless, useful, and handmade pieces from the finest materials.
Tumblr media
Altieri's unique approach materialized through the application of distinctive treatments and washes, setting his creations apart. Notably, Maurizio Altieri rejects traditional editorials and advertising, firmly believing that the craftsmanship and quality of his pieces should speak for themselves. This commitment to craftsmanship is vividly demonstrated through a series of collections known as the "Continues Collection," showcasing an enduring dedication to the art of craftsmanship and the creation of timeless fashion experiences. Post-Carpe Diem, Altieri embarked on various projects, including m_moriabc, active in the fashion world since 2012.
Tumblr media
Beyond demonstrating Altieri's exceptional talent for creating memorable brand names, m_moriabc is renowned for its handmade footwear crafted through special Norwegian craftsmanship. Altieri's ambitious pursuit involves capturing the essence of time itself in his creations, symbolized by the names A, B, and C, each representing distinct lines that embody aspects of the past, present, and future.
Tumblr media
Avantindietro, launched in 2009, stands out as another notable project, offering a minimalist response to Carpe Diem's initial collection. In a collaborative effort two years later, Altieri partnered with Alessio Zero, the Italian designer behind Layer-O, to produce a small offering of shoes made from leather buried years earlier, adding a fascinating narrative to the creations.
Tumblr media
Altieri's current venture, the art project Vnapersona, further underscores his dedication to pushing artistic boundaries. Through these endeavors, Maurizio Altieri continues to leave an indelible mark on the fashion landscape, weaving together elements of time, craftsmanship, and innovation.
Maurizio Amadei Maurizio Amadei played a pivotal role in shaping the distinctive identity of Carpe Diem's leather products, encompassing accessories and jackets. During his tenure as a designer at Carpe Diem, Amadei demonstrated a unique exploration of human anatomy, sculpting pieces to follow the lines of the body's muscles. This innovative approach not only left an indelible mark on his designs at Carpe Diem but continued to influence his subsequent work.
Tumblr media
Following the conclusion of Carpe Diem in 2006, Maurizio Amadei founded M.A+ as a spiritual successor to the renowned "Continues Collection." The unmistakable parallels between the two collections are evident in Amadei's inaugural M.A+ collection, where a standout piece was a large shoulder bag crafted from a single seamless piece of leather—a hallmark reminiscent of Carpe Diem. The introduction of the cross motif in this collection became the emblem of Amadei's design ethos, defining sought-after pieces like the 925 Sterling Silver Cross Belt.
Tumblr media Tumblr media
M.A+ seamlessly carried forward many of the distinctive design techniques for leather while integrating cozy cotton fabrics into seamless one-piece silhouettes. Amadei's deliberate use of blunt knives for cutting and processing garment hems serves as a nod to Altieri's design philosophy. The overarching objective was to envelop the wearer in a second skin—an uncomplicated construction that is seamless yet refined.
Tumblr media Tumblr media
In the present day, M.A+ stands out with flawlessly crafted garments in an array of materials such as silk and satin, garnering significant attention for their luxurious functionality. The allure extends to the patterned garments within the M.A+ collection, complementing the outstanding leather and shoe products. Amadei's design DNA is deeply rooted in principles of simplicity and minimalism, with stitches employed only when necessary. This commitment to minimalism is further emphasized by the absence of tags conveying fabric or size information—a testament to Maurizio Amadei's sophistication and meticulous attention to detail in his designs.
Tumblr media
Simone Cecchetto Simone Cecchetto, during his tenure at Carpe Diem, brought an exceptional perspective and creative flair to the realm of shoe and accessory design. Influenced by his background in body art, Cecchetto delved into the "Second Body" project of Sartoria or Anatomica at Carpe Diem, an exploration of the concept of leather as a second skin on the human body.
Tumblr media
His visionary approach extended to innovative ideas such as integrating chips into leather jumpsuits, enabling the tracking of digital images and movements—a seamless fusion of traditional craftsmanship with modern technological elements.
Despite Maurizio Amadei's primary responsibility for leather goods, Cecchetto collaborated directly with Altieri to optimize their products. Despite lacking formal training as a shoemaker, Cecchetto's deep passion for shaping leather led him to assume the role of footwear design at Carpe Diem, allowing him to preserve the brand's legacy in shoe design.
Tumblr media
Following the closure of Carpe Diem, Cecchetto sought refuge at Rick Owens briefly, only to realize a misalignment with Owens' avant-garde aesthetic. This experience served as a catalyst for him to chart his own course, resulting in the establishment of his label, Augusta, later renamed A Diciannoveventitre and A1923. The name Augusta pays homage to his grandmother, embodying the brand's principles of simplicity inherited from her. A1923 revolves around the principle of Wabi-Sabi, a Japanese philosophy seeking beauty in natural irregularities.
Tumblr media
Cecchetto's unwavering dedication is evident in the meticulous sourcing and processing of leather, compensating for his lack of formal training with experimentation and craftsmanship. A1923 stands out with its niche offerings, featuring handmade leather shoes and bags for men. The collection includes distinctive elements such as boots with double zippers and sneaker-boot hybrids, adorned with worn-out laces and intense colors. This testament to Simone Cecchetto's ability to preserve creative integrity while forging his own path underscores his continued contribution to the creation of influential and unique designs.
Tumblr media
/// Part two is coming in a couple of days!
Davis Jahn
41 notes · View notes
Tumblr media
ArtL_SF
Layer-0 calf leather HBlazer, MD75 tape seam t-shirt. BBS P14 taped seam pants, CCP Officer derbies
7 notes · View notes
funstealer · 3 months
Text
Tumblr media Tumblr media Tumblr media Tumblr media Tumblr media
Layer-0 E_caban Grey Cotton Canvas Jacket
2 notes · View notes
try-to · 8 months
Text
Tumblr media
layer-0
0 notes
evercelle · 11 months
Video
timelapse for knife romance :)c i forgot to record until after i already did the thumbnail, but there you go anons!
540 notes · View notes
zeepoteepo · 9 months
Text
Tumblr media
YOU ARE ON MY BLOG YOU WILL LOOK AT MY CRINGE INTERESTS!!!!!
255 notes · View notes
wheucto · 1 year
Text
what if oj's face was on his liquid
Tumblr media
607 notes · View notes
lemongogo · 2 months
Note
random OC ask: what would your OC wear on an average day? what would they wear to a special event?
[feel free to include reference images, if you'd like!]
Tumblr media
AA TYSMM i think she;d dress pretty comfortable on an avg day (carpenter pants , light button up, a smock & open toed sandals -- sry osha) given that she'd likely be in the studio but omg.. for a night out i can picture a gorgeousss floor length gown, black w a gentle shimmer, fitted with a deep v and an open back or some cutouts.. & jewelry to match ~
54 notes · View notes
lorillee · 9 months
Text
Tumblr media
im really normal about them <- lie
#ace attorney#mia fey#diego armando#miego#lorillee.png#THATS RIGHT BABY. AFTER -um . hold on. *checks notes* - SIX MONTHS. LORILLEE IS BACK WITH PHOTOSHOP ART 💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥#every now and again i like to put effort into something just to remind everybody that i can actually draw#well i say that but to be honest i put a lot of effort into those ms paint ''diego fey REAL'' doodles#but half of that is just because humans are a . something. to draw. and urban backgrounds are my worst nemesis#and also trying to work with ms paint to like slightly transform things is an incredible pain in the behind#anyways. yeagh 😎👍 behold the power of miego. getting me to actually finish something in photoshop for the first time in months#anyways. ive discovered the secret to getting me to draw stuff on photoshop. prepare yourselves accordingly#what i need to do is sketch & line something in ms paint. and then directly trace it over into photoshop#and then i can go ham#see because the reason i never did this before was because i would sketch things in ms paint#and try to line them in photoshop and it simply Wouldnt Work.#so i had assumed that if i wanted to draw in photoshop id have to sketch in it first. yknow. which i cannot do for some reason#something about the way the pen feels and the . its like the smoothing setting is on even when its on 0 percent. you know. anyways#but with this one i drew mia in ms paint as per usual . and i wanted to mess around with color & light#and i triedddd to do it in ms paint but unfortunately as you can probably imagine. doing stuff like this without layer filters#can get a little difficult. if you know what youre doing its obviously going to be easier but that being said i do not#when i pick colors i am literlaly just wildly guessing 😭🙏 which is fine for more straightforward coloring/shading#but not quite here. which is why i wanted to take a stab at it in the first place#so anyways i was like FINE WHATEVER and tried tracing the lineart in photoshop so i could take a stab at coloring in there#and i was . enlightened. (no pun intended). it WORKS#so anyways . you may actually be able to expect. some photoshop art from me#well ok thats a lie never expect art from me. but we can all dream together#anyways they really are the star-crossed doomed by the narrative romance ever. everything to me
174 notes · View notes
sysig · 5 months
Note
For the last day of requestober, can you please draw something spooky/scary with Negative RGB? With all the cool lighting stuff you've been doing recently, I think it could be very dramatic, and I'd love to see him in your style!
Tumblr media
Day 31 -Pl̷̼͙̯̼̟̈́͒̃̓͆e̵̢͔̞̤̯͗as̴̨͆̒̏e dö̸̧̢̝̳́͝ not̸̨̞͔̗͆̔͝ͅ ̶̦̋͒a̵̪͋̉̈́̒djus̶̪͔͎̘͈̍́̂̅̚t yö̶̙̺͎́͘u̷͚̙̿̓͆r sc̸̙͍͒rę̸̰̺̣̿̓͌̔̎en̴̏̈́͊ͅ
137 notes · View notes
turbidapoplexy · 5 months
Text
Tumblr media
i despise ibispaint but i cant pull my art tablet out rn
97 notes · View notes
shifting---patterns · 2 months
Text
Wearing Time: Carpe Diem and the Artistry of Anti-Fashion (Pt. 2 / 2)
Tumblr media
Continuing since part one of this article was simply too long.
/// Luca Laurini Luca Laurini, distinguished from his peers Cecchetto and Amadei, directs his focus exclusively on clothing within his label Under Construction, eschewing leather and accessories entirely. Established in 2003, Under Construction stands out as one of the most prominent among the four labels spearheaded by the former Carpe Diem design team. While guided by Altieri at Carpe Diem, Laurini honed his skills in knitwear, and his vision for the craft of knitwear and ready-to-wear fashion crystallized during the creation of L'Maltieri and Linea.
Unfortunately I couldn't find any picture of Laurini himself. More space for his creations!
Tumblr media Tumblr media
Carpe Diem's prior emphasis on leather processing provided Laurini with the platform to express his ideas about knitwear and ready-to-wear pieces in a manner that was both disruptive and experimental. Post-Carpe Diem, Laurini founded Under Construction with the explicit intent of challenging conventional perceptions of knitwear. The label's name itself implies that Laurini's collection consists of pieces intentionally designed to appear seemingly unfinished. Employing modern technologies and adopting an architectural approach, Laurini's designs are characterized by modern tailoring and urban minimalism.
Tumblr media Tumblr media
The Under Construction collection spans from unconventional white T-shirts with uneven seams to black button-down shirts featuring non-traditional stitches. It includes tapered pants with flared crotches and gathered ankles. Laurini remains true to his roots, paying homage to Carpe Diem with a long-sleeved shirt adorned with a blue and white print reminiscent of muscle fibers. These garments embody the philosophy of Label Under Construction, marked by the fusion of technology and architecture with a steadfast focus on craftsmanship.
Tumblr media Tumblr media
Through his label Under Construction, Luca Laurini demonstrates that, despite the absence of leather and accessories, he has the ability to craft an impressive array of modern and urban clothing pieces. These pieces stand out for their intentional imperfections and artisanal refinement, showcasing Laurini's commitment to pushing the boundaries of conventional fashion norms.
Sara Lanzi Sara Lanzi, perhaps the lesser-known member of the Carpe Diem family, specializes in the transformative art of clothing, driven by her deep appreciation for knitwear. Serving as the steward of the Linea label at Carpe Diem from 1999 to 2003, Lanzi, a former student of contemporary art, sees the human body not merely as a reference point but as an object for "essential and transformative pieces." Her foray into the fashion world commenced with the presentation of her eponymous women's fashion collection in Paris in 2004.
Tumblr media
Lanzi's overarching goal is to harmonize aesthetics and functionality, manifested through monochrome pieces with a strong emphasis on versatility. The Fall/Winter collection of 2006 showcased her innovative prowess, featuring garments that could be worn in various ways—a knee-length dress with a scarf serving as a sleeve or an unevenly draped ribbed tank that seamlessly transformed into a sweater with a collar. Another notable creation was Lanzi's A-line velvet dress, radiating monastic elegance from the front yet revealing a seductively transgressive deep back neckline upon closer inspection.
Tumblr media
Sara Lanzi's current collections adhere to a similar concept, accentuating the duality of garments with a more subdued look tailored for the "natural woman." Lanzi's designs exemplify her ability to seamlessly unite aesthetics and functionality, highlighting the duality and versatility of clothing as mediums for personal style and self-expression. Despite her relatively lower recognition within the Carpe Diem family, Sara Lanzi has carved out a distinct place in avant-garde fashion through her inventive approach to knitwear and fashion, proving that her creative ingenuity transcends the boundaries of conventional recognition.
Tumblr media
Taichi Murakami (Honorable Mention) Taichi Murakami, the former pattern maker at M.A+ and the founder of his eponymous brand, stands as a prominent figure in the realm of avant-garde fashion. In the mid-2000s, the Gothic clothing movement (here's a brief reference to my blog article "How Post-Punk Influenced Nowadays Fashion") served as a global inspiration for designers, including Rick Owens in North America, and labels such as Julius, Attachment, Devoa, and The Viridi-Anne. While many of these designers share a lineage with Carpe Diem in some way, Taichi Murakami distinguishes himself through his unique and innovative work.
Tumblr media Tumblr media
During his studies in Tokyo, Murakami gained experience at Lift, a multi-brand boutique in Daikanyama known for its artisanal brands like Carol Christian Poell and M.A+. Fascinated by Maurizio Amadei's intricate patterns at M.A+, Murakami aspired to work there one day. His goal became a reality after completing his studies when he secured a scholarship to study pattern making in Milan. In 2009, he joined Amadei as a pattern maker at M.A+, where he imbibed a flexible approach to the design process, a departure from the strict Japanese mentality. Amadei's encouragement for Murakami to experiment beyond traditional limits, creating prototypes from various materials, became a formative aspect of his creative journey.
Tumblr media
After gaining valuable experience at M.A+, Murakami felt prepared to establish his own fashion line. In 2012, he unveiled his inaugural collection in Tokyo. Murakami identifies more as a clothing developer than a conventional designer, displaying an obsessive commitment to sourcing the right materials before embarking on the design process. With local connections granting him access to adventurous fabric manufacturers, Murakami's refined patterning adapts to the behavior of each fabric, allowing him to shape each piece in unique ways—resulting in garments that are truly one-of-a-kind.
Tumblr media
Taichi Murakami's distinctive approach resonates throughout his collections, positioning him as a fitting successor to Altieri and Amadei's design ethos. His work epitomizes a successful fusion of traditional craftsmanship, experimental design, and the freedom to challenge established norms, marking him as a trailblazer in the avant-garde fashion landscape.
///
Tumblr media
Carpe Diem's indelible mark on artisanal fashion stands as a testament to Altieri's visionary leadership and the collective creativity of its members. Despite the surging interest in artisanal avant-garde fashion, the prospect of a Carpe Diem resurgence remains uncertain. Nevertheless, the dissolution of Carpe Diem has not dimmed the creative fervor of its members. Each, including Altieri with his "Vnapersona" project, ventures beyond the realm of fashion, infusing art into their pursuits.
Tumblr media
Altieri, Amadei, Cecchetto, Laurini, and Lanzi have not only pioneered avant-garde fashion but have also left an enduring legacy, fostering a continued influence embraced by various labels and designers. Their artistic imprints endure, evident in contemporary collections two decades later. The Carpe Diem collective remains a pivotal milestone in the annals of artisanal fashion, its impact echoing through time. As we look to the future, the anticipation lingers for potential developments and projects from Altieri and his colleagues, underscoring their perpetual influence on the ever-evolving landscape of creative expression.
Davis Jahn
29 notes · View notes
ltcdrmcgarrett · 1 year
Photo
Tumblr media Tumblr media Tumblr media Tumblr media
In praise of cozy!Steve
216 notes · View notes
yukipri · 1 year
Text
Tumblr media
Longshot | CT-1110
Clonetober 2022 #15
*Numerical designation + face design is the artist's own headcanon.
~~
PLEASE DO NOT REPOST, EDIT, TRANSLATE, OR OTHERWISE USE MY ART. To share, please reblog! Reblogging is the best way to support this project and the artist.
❀ You can see the rest of my art through the Masterpost pinned to the top of my blog!
445 notes · View notes
katyahina · 3 months
Text
Tumblr media
I know this is just a WIP sketch but I'll likely not be able to finish it very soon :т Thought I'll put it here for now
From how Knights are described I've got an impression that they are "indoors" hunters in particular, and considering her affiliation with Byrgenwerth and Old Hunters I like to think Maria might have been one of those warrior guys diving in Chalice Dungeons to bring more shinies in Cainhurst. Guardians of the Queen (what Bloody Crow is) I think started to go down there after the whole "Cainhurst got the blood from a traitor from Byrgenwerth", when as a heavy warrior Maria had the motivation to requalify into a Hunter and adopt tactics from Gehrman since agility, speed and Hunter tools proven to be more effective against the beasts and various other monsters Byrgenwerth was off to face.
I know it doesn't look that bad, but this set is INCREDIBLY hard to work with because of lack of references (AND they're all in the very dark lighting)! Also the guys in throne room have double pauldron on their right shoulders and no pauldron on their left, when the unused model, the portrait and the corpses in the dungeons all have normal pauldrons. I assumed the throne room armours just had a modeling mistake and rolled with normal ones. Fun fact: portrait guy has slightly differently shaped pauldrons and all-golden armour, when everywhere else this armour is mostly silver with gold decor. I decided to just leave the unique look to him.
43 notes · View notes
floorpancakes · 8 months
Text
Tumblr media
66 notes · View notes