Hermès, Autumn/Winter 2024. Under Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski
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The Best of the Runway with a Guilty Side of Pre-fall, from A-Z: RTW Fall/Winter 2022 (Part 3)
-GCDS RTW, creative dir. Giuliano Calza-
-Giambattista Valli RTW, creative dir.”-
-Givenchy RTW, creative dir. Matthew M. Williams-
-Gucci RTW, creative dir. Alessandro Michele-
-Halpern RTW, creative dir. Michael Halpern-
-Helmut Lang RTW, creative dir. Thomas Cawson-
-Hermes RTW, creative dir. Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski-
-Heron Preston RTW, creative dir.”-
-Isabel Marant RTW, creative dir. Kim Bekker-
-Issey Miyake RTW, creative dir. Satoshi Kondo-
-Jacquemus RTW, creative dir. Simon Porte Jacquemus-
-Jil Sander RTW, creative dir(s). Luke and Lucie Meier-
-Johanna Ortiz RTW, creative dir.”-
-Jonathan Simkhai RTW, creative dir.“-
-Khaite RTW, creative dir. Catherine Holstein-
-Kim Shui RTW, creative dir.”-
-Knwls, creative dir. Charlotte Knowles-
-Lanvin RTW, creative dir. Bruno Sialelli-
-Laquan Smith RTW, creative dir.”-
-Lemaire RTW, creative dir(s). Christophe Lemaire & Sarah-Linh Tran-
-Loewe RTW, creative dir. Jonathan Anderson-
-Louis Shengtao Chen RTW, creative dir.”-
-Louis Vuitton RTW, creative dir. Nicolas Ghesquière-
-Maggie Marilyn RTW, creative dir. Maggie Hewitt-
-Marine Serre RTW, creative dir.”-
-Mark Fast RTW, creative dir.”-
-Marni RTW, creative dir. Francesco Risso-
-Marques Almeida RTW, creative dir(s). Marta marques & Paulo Almeida-
-Maryam Nassir Zadeh RTW, creative dir.”-
-Max Mara RTW, creative dir. Ian Griffiths-
-Michael Kors RTW, creative dir.”-
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7 things you might have missed at Paris Fashion Week
French style isn't always understated.
There was a lot of rain and color at Paris Fashion Week, and even some surprises, including replicas.
Here are some of the highlights you may have missed from the week…
Sprinkles of rain at Hermès
It rained outside the Hermès show at the Garde Républicaine in Paris, but this worked perfectly for creative director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski, who also brought rain inside the venue.
As models walked the runway in riding and ankle-length boots, wearing variations of soft earth tones, including red, brown, grey, and nude tailored coats and skin-tight leather dresses with glossy finishes, an elaborate sprinkler system sprayed them with raindrops.
Some garments were even finished with fur, studs, and buckles, proving they were water-resistant.
Chloé and Alexander McQueen debut new creative directors.
Nothing leaves fashion audiences at the edge of their seats more than when a new creative director makes their debut – especially at a reputable luxury design house.
During PFW, a former JW Anderson employee, Dublin-born Sean McGirr, took over from his predecessor Sarah Burton, who made her departure from Alexander McQueen after 20 years.
For his debut collection, McGirr gave a nod to McQueen's 1995 spring/summer collection, "The Birds," most evidently in the show's first look. A model was wrapped in a compressed black latex midi dress that almost looked like clingfilm, paired with black heeled boots.
Chemena Kamali—an alumna of Saint Laurent—made her creative director debut for Chloé with a collection inspired by the bohemian aesthetics of the 1970s. The collection included blouses with frills, wool capes, faux fur, and trousers with subtle flares.
Famous faces walk the runway.
Sam Smith appeared surprisedly at Andreas Kronthaler's experimental Vivienne Westwood show on Saturday and walked the runway twice.
He first wore a draped tartan knicker creation with a plaid cape, platform-heeled boots, a tartan hat, and a wooden staff.
The English singer-songwriter came out in a black shredded gown, which paid homage to Renaissance artist Giovanni Battista Moroni, whose work inspired the collection.
A jersey isn't the first thing you would expect to see at PFW. Still, Argentine model Georgina Rodriguez, also the girlfriend of Portuguese football star Cristiano Ronaldo, graced the runway for the Swiss fashion label Vetements.
Rodriguez wore a red jersey maxi dress, where the top half resembled Ronaldo's signed football jersey.
Schiaparelli brought surrealism to life
Since 1927, Maison Schiaparelli has been known for its whimsical designs and for bringing surrealism to life, and their PFW ready-to-wear collection show at the Hôtel de Boisgelin – which was masterminded by creative director Daniel Roseberry – was no different.
Canadian model Shalom Harlow opened the show in a structured boxy black blazer with a measuring tape embroidery down the plunging neckline. Another model, also wearing a suit, paired it with a tie made from plaited hair.
All black everything at Valentino
Valentino stood out and turned its back on the hot pink shade it has incorporated into its designs over the last couple of years.
In an entirely black collection called Le Noir – in comparison to the many colors seen across various shows – the Italian fashion house saw its creative director, Pierpaolo Piccioli, take a risk and prove that the color black also represents "an entire spectrum of shades, infinitely nuanced, within one," the brand wrote on X, formerly Twitter.
The collection included shift dresses with furred hems, flowing and a-line gowns, balloon sleeves, black accessories, shoulder bags, and dark makeup.
Former American tennis player Serena Williams was in attendance, along with Bridgeton's Simone Ashley and model and beauty founder Rosie Huntington-Whiteley.
Kate Moss doppelganger at Marine Serre
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People were unsure whether they spotted Kate Moss walking across the runway at the Marine Serre show. But it wasn't her—it was her doppelganger, Denise Ohnona.
She wore an oversized black leather jacket and matching over-the-knee boots, which featured the brand's classic crescent moon-shaped logo. She paired them with a white shirt, a shoulder handbag, and a gold-chained handle.
Coffee cups, vegetable baskets, shopping bags, and a mother carrying a baby were all spotted. They pulled the audience into an ambiguous marketplace at a former railway shed in Paris called Ground Control. It fostered a sense of intimacy and community with chic clothes in which you could probably run errands alongside grand designs such as a black dress with built-in wings.
Winnie Harlow also walked the runway and wore a ruched black spaghetti-sleeved dress and tights with the crescent logo in red.
Fashion drama at Mugler
It's safe to say Mugler's creative director, Casey Cadwallader, put on a grand and superfluous show at PFW.
The French fashion house used silhouettes and vignettes and dropped curtains from center stage to progressively unveil the new collection, which included slinky dresses, sheer corsets, molded leather, and garments that looked like they were melting off the models' bodies. There were also asymmetrical skirts, belt buckles, and printed pieces – designed in partnership with Canadian surrealist painter Ambera Wellmann.
Brooklyn Beckham and Nicola Peltz sat next to Alexander Edwards and Tyga. Julia Fox, who wore a sheer feathered salmon dress with ethereal glitter makeup, sat next to Emma Chamberlain and Lisa Rinna.
Models sauntered across a darkened room, with spotlights illuminating the slinky collection, as they stepped through dry ice to reach the media pit, where they posed for flashing lights.
Louis Vuitton goes big.
To mark ten years since his first collection for Louis Vuitton, Nicolas Ghesquière turned their autumn/winter show into a massive celebration, with almost 4,000 people in attendance.
With the help of visual artist Philippe Parreno and producer-designer James Chinlund, Ghesquière blended fashion and art while turning the Louvre's Cour Carrée into a futuristic greenhouse. The greenhouse also included 13 large chandeliers that resembled a data and electrical supply system.
The star-studded audience included Kelly Rowland, Phoebe Dynevor, and Emma Stone, who watched as models walked the runway in dresses with the fashion brand's classic logo all over them and long, sheer evening wear that gave a nod to the collection's classic futurism.
They also wore sportswear-inspired white coats, oversized fur coats, playful sequins, metallic gold suits, and textured blouses.
By By Yolanthe Fawehinmi and Prudence Wade, PA
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