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#patterns tutorial
barksbog · 3 months
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Barks Quick "Turing patterns in CSP" tutorial
you need some pixels to start with, either just grab the spray bottle tool or go to Filter>Render>Perlin Noise
Filter> Gausian Blur> value: 6
Filter> Sharpen> unsharp mask> Radius: 22, Strenght: 255, Threshold: 0
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you need to repeat step 2+3 over and over. to make that easier you can go to:
Auto Action> create new auto action set
hit record in the bottom left of the auto action window
perform step 2+3
stop recording
right click the actions in the set and duplicate them
make sure they are sorted correctly and hit play a few times
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before you color your pattern or do anything with it go to
Edit> tonal correction> binarization
to get rid of any odd colored pixels
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todayontumblr · 4 months
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Wednesday, November 29.
You reap what you sew.
Never have truer words been spoken. But they come as good news for Tumblr's sewing community, however, who have been sewing some absolute delights. Some real œuvres d'art. Some winner-winner chicken dinners.
As luck would have it, #sewing is trending. And it's trending right now, so we have reaped a selection of these very dinners for your eyes only. We have then asked ourselves just what did we do to deserve y'all, and your resplendent talents.
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tretinoin-tube · 1 month
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Lolita Accessory tutorial pages from Japanese mook “Gothic & Lolita Patterns”, 2004
Included are: head dresses, hair clips/ties, camisole pattern, drawers pattern, sock stoppers, multiple bag patterns, detachable collars, and jewelry.
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Consider this as my Valentine’s gift to you guys!! Thank you for being very kind about my post ^-^
*Also* If you would like the patterns to some of the tutorials (ie: the mini top hats, pattern 62) let me know so I can make a post later!
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tickfleato · 3 months
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how to make cool blobby turing patterns in photoshop
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i'll preface with i learned the basic loop from skimming a tutorial on youtube, but as someone who prefers written tutorials i'm sure many would appreciate one! also, the second part of this is some of the visual effects i figured out on my own using blending modes and stuff.
i'm using photoshop CS4 on a mac so some buttons and stuff might be in different places on windows and newer photoshop versions but all the actions are the same. my canvas is 1000x1000 pixels.
UPDATES (i'm hoping these'll show up whenever you open the readmore?)
it's possible to do something similar in krita using this plugin, made by the love @arcaedex
it's also possible to do this in photopea, a free browser alternative to photoshop! the results are pretty much identical.
FIRST off you wanna get or make a black and white image of some kind. it has to be one layer. can be noise, a photo, a bunch of lines, whatever. here's mine, just some quick airbrush lines:
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now find the actions tab. idk what it looks like in newer versions of photoshop but you probably won't need to dig!
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hit the little page thingy to make a new pattern. once you hit 'record', it'll record everything you do. the little square 'stop' icon will end it.
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now you want to do a high pass filter. you can mess around with the radius to change the size of your squiggles, but the tutorial had it set to 6. experiment!
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now add the 'threshold' adjustment layer. i use the adjustments tab but i think there's also a dropdown menu somewhere. keep it at the default, 128. merge it down. (control or command + E or you can right click it like some kind of weirdo)
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and finally, the gaussian blur! the radius of this affects the shape and size of your squiggles as well. i like to keep it around 4.5 but you can mess around with that too.
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after that, hit 'stop' on the action you're recording, and then repeat it a bunch of times using the 'play' button, until you have something you like, like this:
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WOW!! that was fun!! and only a little tedious thanks to the power of macros. anyway, here's some fun layer blending stuff i like to do. it's with a different pattern cause i made this bit first.
anyway, using a black and white gradient (or a grey base that you do black and white airbrush on), make a layer with the vivid light. this will make the blobs look thicker or thinner.
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then, for cool colors, do a gradient map adjustment layer over that:
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and finally, my best friend, the overlay layer. just using a gradient here bc i'm lazy, but feel free to experiment with brushes, colors, and blending modes!
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NOW GO. MAKE COOL SHIT WITH THE POWER OF MATH. AND SEND IT TO ME
also these are not hard and fast rules PLEASE mess around with them to see what kind of weird shit you can make. here's a gif. as you can see i added some random airblush blobs in the middle of it, for fun.
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milk-sharks · 4 months
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god i hope this won't be too confusing-- here's the seeker pillow/plush pattern (just a loose guide, plus the actual pattern!)
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***attach the cockpit AFTER the body is stuffed instead!!! so, skip step 7 and do it last!***
- step 5 is optional!
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the pattern should be printer-ready on 8.5x11 paper, but if tumblr eats the quality, then twitter will hopefully work!
seam allowance is already included (whoops), and the dotted lines show where you should be sewing
the grey (non-dotted) lines on the wings and cockpit are there as a reference, please don't cut them!
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if your fabric has a right and wrong side, make sure to flip over the paper pattern when making the L vs R wings (and tail fins and wing details).
if the pile of your fabric faces one way, make sure that you pin the pattern accordingly!
if there's any errors, please let me know so i can correct them!
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seamsterslocal · 10 months
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summer binder picture tutorial
this is the third binder ive made for myself recently and the first one i’m writing up. it’s designed to do a few things: 1) allow me to put it on by myself without dislocating my shoulders 2) allow me to breathe well enough to partake in normal activity 3) be cool enough to wear throughout a muggy 90-100F summer 4) not constrict my ribs in a way that aggravates my lack of connective tissue and causes intense pain.
this has become necessary even though i had top surgery many years ago, because when i had it i was extremely skinny and since then i’ve increased in size by about 50%. this has been really fucking good for my health in every single way* except that when my chest is squishy or moves at all it’s So Goddamn Triggering for me. but also since ive had top surgery ive developed and/or been made away of a plethora of chronic conditions that make every single commercially available binding option medically impossible. unbound, my chest is pretty much what you’d expect for a chubby cis guy but venturing out into the world in just a tshirt no longer works for me
*anyone who badmouths weight gain or fat bodies in the notes WILL be blocked
under the cut are a bunch of process pictures and explanations of what they all mean:
first i’ll give you a look at the pieces and measurements:
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most of the seams are sewn in this picture and one half is turned inside out, allowing you to see both the finished dimensions (right) and the placement of the fusible horsehair canvas that gives this lil scrap of linen any structure at all (left)
to get your chest measurement, you’re gonna have to do some math:
first measure above and below what you want to bind. average these numbers. mine are something like 32 and 34, which average to 33. subtract a few inches--this is to allow the air movement between the laces at center front and back, critical in the summertime. i deleted 3 inches bc i like that number but you can go bigger if you want. the more inches you subtract here, the more youll be able to ratchet all your chest material down later, but at the same time you need to leave enough fabric for a sturdy garment. let’s say a range of 2-6 inches/5-15cm. by taking your measurements this way, you’re essentially measuring the chest you would like to have. that + the horsehair canvas work together to compress any squishy tissue/force anything that doesnt compress up and to the outside (basically into the armpit/lower shoulder--the chest might stick out but it will give a very puffed chest captain america pectoral silhouette)
you can also see how ive clipped my curves and pre-drilled my lacing holes. i used the marlin spike on my knife to open up the holes on the interfacing side, mainly as a way of marking them. this worked well bc the interfacing’s glue kept the linen from raveling
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this is the same stage but looking at the non-interfaced grey linen/cotton blend (the black is some 100% linen from my cabbage stash). you can see ive broken the solar-plexus-to-back measurement up into a bunch of pieces to save on fabric but that’s not necessary. my original pattern was just two pieces (front and back) and chopping the straps into thirds on both sides was aesthetic
in the following picture you can really see how this is really just overgrown regency stays:
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i thought about doing side lacing but didn’t think that would be comfortable for me. on the front, the side seam allowance was pressed inwards before turning to create a finished looking slot. on the back the side seam is left unfinished with an extra wide seam allowance, and is inserted into that slot.
here’s a closeup on it pinned in place (you can adjust the angle of the side seam and the fit during this pinning stage):
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that side seam was just topstitched in place once i had the fit how i liked it, and the armhole was reinforced with more topstitching
alright, time for eyelets: first, you can see how well the marking worked:
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next, two rows of basted eyelets (left), one row of eyelets sewn with a doubled and waxed cotton thread (center right), and one row of eyelets opened and stainless steel rings placed (right).
next time i’m going to mark the eyelets same as i did above, but do this step differently--i’ll mark and baste the steel rings in place BEFORE widening the eyelets. this is bc i had a lot of problems keeping the eyelets on center
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eyelets half done on this one! on the left are eyelets sewn with doubled and waxed cotton thread and on the right eyelets sewn with quadrupled and waxed thread. the center is basting again. i was able to force the holes back in line while sewing the eyelets but it was kinda annoying. adding a second picture that doesnt have great focus but hopefully shows how that process worked and shows the spike clearly
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i ended up using this white cotton thread because it’s stronger than my black cotton thread (which the rest of it is sewn with). [eta: after this was first posted, i pressed the whole thing heavily, which effectively de-waxed the thread, and i dyed the whole thing a medium charcoal grey, the thread blends in perfectly on the lighter side and isn’t such a sore thumb on the darker side]
bonus: the piecing layout for that little piece of strap. the whole light gray half of the binder was made from 1/2 of one of the legs i cut off some linen suit pants to make slutty camping shorts last year and i really really didn’t want to break into any of the other three halves for this garment--i have Plans for it
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overall the fit of this is incredible. it DOESNT hurt my ribs which every zip-up garment ive been able to find (and it is difficult) does due to really thick elastic at the base. it doesnt aggravate my sensory issues with the synthetic fibers that every commercial option is made of. i can walk up a hill or stairs, or go to pt, without getting too out of breath. i can eat with it tight, or loosen the front easily and without taking it off to make eating easier and less nausea-inducing. it is reversible!
best of all the lacing at the back gives the garment enough movement for me to get it on without dislocating, and the interfacing and steel rings give it structure once it’s on. the shaping comes only from fusible horsehair linen canvas and stainless steel rings like youd use for chainmail, there’s no boning at all, which makes it very quick to sew (except the eyelets, but metal grommets would be sturdy and quick provided theyre of good quality)
there’s a small amount of gaping on the outside of the shoulder strap, which i plan on fixing with a tiny tiny dart in the armpit, i want to add pockets to tuck the laces into, and i need a better lace for the back, but it’s completely wearable in time for the 90 weather next week which is all i wanted. i’ll do a reblog when it’s perfectly finished with an update on the fit but for now it is done enough 
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the little ridge where it doesnt lay flat against the shoulder is most visible with just a single t shirt over it. with a flannel or a sweater, it disappears, and by itself, it’s hidden in movement
eta: after dyeing this, i relaced it a bit looser in the back and that gape mainly disappeared. ive decided to leave it in instead of smoothing it with a dart because the loose fabric gives space for my chest to expand when breathing and shapes my silhouette in a way that emphasizes my shoulders
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daylikescookies · 11 months
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HEY YOU! Do you wanna learn how to make something like this??
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Or how about these babies?
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Or even this thaang??
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then CONSIDER checking out my sewing tutorial on how to make one of these puppies for yourself! its 1.6k words, and 21 pages of lovingly written, step-by-step instructions, featuring 38 images to help you follow along!
The download is available on my Etsy and (for a little cheaper!) on my Ko-fi shop!
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waiitiridge · 1 month
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I made some cute sunflower pillows out of scrap fabrics I had been saving from the dump. I couldn't find the right buttons so I made some out of polymer clay I had in my stash 🌻
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Here's some instructions if you also want to make some 😊
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I still need to draw up a sized petal template but I've also made a youtube video (my first one, it's horrible 😂) if you are more of a visual learner.
youtube
1. Cut 1 brown corduroy circle 1 wool batting circle and 2 green 2/3 circles (for the back)
2. Cut 12 pairs of petals (24 pieces total)
3. Sew petal pieces right sides together 1cm away from edges. Turn right sides out and top stitch along the edge. Stitch centre petal seam. Repeat for all petals
4. Quilt your brown centre to the wool. I made lines about 1.5cm apart making a grid.
5 Pin 6 of your petals centre first evenly spaced around the edge. Pin the last 6 over the gaps. Sew 1 cm from the edge
6 Roll hem the straight edge of the 2/3 circle pieces (a rol hem to folding and then folding again)
7 make 3 button holes evenly spaced on one back piece
8 secure the pieces to eachother both having right sides up, creating a pocket
9 fold on your petals and pin your back piece right sides together to your flower front. Sew 1.5cm around the edge and turn out through the pocket.
10 stuff your pillow then add buttons to fit the holes you made earlier. I do the buttons last to make sure they fit nicely when fully puffed.
11 yayyyy pillow!
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knithacker · 9 months
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Crochet A Sturdy Shell Bag - Two Tutorials & Yarn Suggestions Too: 👉 https://buff.ly/2VLKxKJ
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lycheeon · 3 months
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hello to the two people following me :) I haven't shared any patterns I've created before for sewing, but in making some period c-drama and danmei inspired cosplays and my resurging Hanfu fixation realized there aren't many good English resources for sewing cross-collar tops for zhongyi and other pieces so I made my own!
there are three pages but I tried to pack a bunch of information into it and you can download it via Gumroad for free :) I'm also entirely down to help out with patterning for anyone (if any lol) who might want to use this little pattern tutorial.
✨download link✨
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uncanny-tranny · 4 months
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The thing that gets me about history and humanity is that you never know what is immortalized, and the things that will be immortalized are things you would never think.
I saw a person sharing a new tattoo, and it was one of Onfim's drawings. A boy who lived so long ago he is barely a blip now, but his drawings meant so much to people that somebody is now permanently marked in their skin with one of those drawings. Do you ever look at the things you make and just sit there and wonder if this is the thing that future people look at? Do you ever look at your art, your writing, your schoolwork, or anything that is yours and just wonder who will find it, who will fall in love with a piece of your humanity and become overwhelmed with emotion over? It's not unlikely. It's not totally unlikely that somebody will find a piece of you in the distant future and devoid of any other context of who you were will still love you because you were here. You were here, and you are still here, even hundreds or thousands of years later. Treat yourself with the same love that so many have for dear Onfim.
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crochetmelovely · 11 months
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It's #wipwednesday! What are you working on this week? 👋🌟💝 Next free blanket on my hook! This is the Triple Interlocking Block Stitch, video on my YouTube channel! Tutorial here! 💖
Link to my blog/website: https://crochetml.com/
https://crochetml.com/free-crochet-patterns/
Check out the tiktok here!
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aradiyatoys · 11 months
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🚨[FREE BABY SEASHELL PATTERN!]🚨 Once upon a time, in the deep blue ocean, there was a tiny Baby Seashell. She lived among the mermaids 🧜🏻‍♀️ crabs 🦀 and octopuses 🐙 in a beautiful underwater world 🌊 The Baby Seashell loved to play hide-and-seek with her octopus friends and listen to the beautiful songs 🎶 of the mermaids. She would also often explore the nearby coral reefs 🪸 marveling at the vibrant colors and the exotic sea creatures that called it home. Despite being small, the Baby Seashell had a big heart ❤️ and always looked out for her friends, whether it was helping a crab mend a broken shell or sharing a tasty seaweed snack with the mermaids. Life was full of adventure and wonder in the deep ocean, and the Baby Seashell couldn't wait to see what each new day would bring! 🥰 Baby Seashell is a FREE addition to my Kawaii Ocean Minis crochet pattern that includes Mermaid, Triton, Octopus, Hermit Crab and Seahorse and is available here -> https://etsy.me/41Oz4GU 😊 FREE Crochet pattern for amigurumi Baby Seashell is available in English, Spanish, French, Italian, Dutch, Portuguese and Danish, browse through the gallery to see all of these languages! 🤗 Happy crocheting and have a wonderful weekend, dear friends! 💛💙
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wolfies-toys · 5 months
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it is finally time to post my backpack pattern! i've been meaning to do this for a while! so if you'd like to try sew your own plush backpack i've drawn up a basic pattern i've been using that should be easy to edit to suit whatever shape you'd like. Please note i'm a newby at making patterns that are readable to others so apologies if it's a little messy. This pattern is intended for personal use only, i would love to see what people make if you do give it a go! Pattern and basic walkthrough images will be under the cut!
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here is the basic pattern! it's very simple and i've written some rough instructions onto the pieces themselves as well. note that the side darts on the front of the bag can be completely ignored if you like. it just adds some extra shaping but isnt strictly necessary.
if you want to resize it should be relatively straightforward to, just adjust overall shape and size to your liking, i would recommend printing out the pattern and seeing how it sizes to your plush of choice, this pattern makes a backpack the size of what twig the bright orange fox is wearing in the photo, it is quite wideset, and will fit most bears but will be a little wide for something like a medium bashful jellycat. for something like a medium bashful i would suggest reducing the size overall of the main bag and keeping the bag strap length mostly the same. please note you will loose some length in the overall bag chamber once the flap is added. the most important things to keep in mind when resizing is width and bag strap length.
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first you will want to cut out all your pattern pieces, first starting with the straps, fold in half and sew along the long edge, then turn the resulting tube through.
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once your bag strap is turned through position the strap flat down on the sewing machine and sew along both edges to help it sit flat, you can iron the strap beforehand too if it's giving you a bit of trouble staying in position. that should leave you with two flat backpack straps! if you dont want to go to this trouble to make the straps, you can also just use some ribbon or elastic and skip this step
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next you will want to sew on the little bit of velcro to the lining of the bag flap. and then to the corresponding front of the bag both while they are not sewn to anything else so it will hide the stitches.
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then if you have cut the darts sew closed the darts on both the outer front and lining front. if you havent added the darts you can just skip this step.
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you then want to sew together the bag flap lining and outside piece, making sure you sew inside out and then turn through.
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pin or clip your main bag chamber lining together, i've found if using cotton you will loose a little length on the back piece if you sewed the darts, once sewn you can just cut the excess off.
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next sew the outer back and front together, leaving little gaps at the lower corners for the bag straps to be sewn in place, then poke them evenly through the holes and sew them in place.
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Turn through the main outer bag chamber, place the lining inside, and fold the edges of the front together, sew the front edge closed, leaving the back open for now
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next you place the open end of the flap in between the lining and outer back of the bag and fold the edges of the lining and outer back together with the flap in the center, pin in place but dont sew it up just yet.
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once that is positioned you can bring the bag straps up to the fold and place them inbetween the flap and the outer back, and make sure they arent twisted. then you can sew it together.
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you should then have a finished plushie backpack that you can decorate with mini pins, bead keychains or just keep plain, and fill with lots of treasures from your plushies travels!
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leo-fie · 3 months
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Progress Pride Flag Quilt Block Pattern & Tutorial
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Don't you just love the flag of our people? Do you have an inner grandma that years to make stuff? Do you want to combine these two things and make a queer quilt?
Well, I've got you.
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Behold the pattern! And my lack of graphic skills, so I drew it on paper!
Basically it's a bunch of rectangles, one half square triangle and a fuzzy cut circle. I don't know shit about quilting and I was able to come up with it. Why Centimeter, you ask? Because I'm German and that's what I'm familiar with. Why weird measurements and not jelly rolls and layer cakes and stuff? Because I'm German and quilting is not really a thing here.
Onto the tutorial!
You'll need:
A scrap of fabric of red, orange, yellow, green, blue, purple, black, brown, light blue, pink, white each
additional fabric for the border
Cutting mat, quilting ruler, roll cutter
sewing machine
thread
pins
double sided interfacing
iron and ironing board
fabric sheers
compasses
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Step 1: Cut everything. Duh. We'll take care of the circle later, don't worry about that now. The half square triangle is exactly what it sounds like. A square and then you cut it diagonally. That's why I didn't give the length of the hypotenuse.
(Note: I'm making two blocks at the same time, that's why there's so much fabric. Also this is a middle of the night project, hence the lighting.)
I'm using all kinds of different fabrics, different weights and drapes, some stretchy, some transparent, so I needed to interface some of them.
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Step 2: Sew the rainbow together. 0,5cm seam allowance on everything, that's exactly the edge of the foot on your machine. Double and triple check that everything is facing the right direction before sewing. The seam of yellow and green does not get sewn fully, only 21,5 cm! That's important later! Also backtack there. Don't forget to iron.
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Step 3: Sew the strips to the half square triangle. For this you have to switch between the sewing machine and the ironing board constantly. Attach the shorter strip diretly to one side of the HST, iron it open. The second strip of the same colour gets attatched to the other side of the HST and the first strip. Look at the pictures closely if you're unsure how that works. Also the strips are longer than the triangle. We'll square that up later.
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All strips attatched will look like this. See how the two strips meet at the tip!
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Step 4: Cut the rainbow part to size. The seam between yellow and green is 22cm long. The shorter seam from before and some seam allowance. The outsides of red and purple are 44,5cm long. You will cut a little triangle from every single colour. Do this slowly and carefully. Maybe your fabrics have stretched a bit (mine did). Don't worry, it will be ok.
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Step 5: The Y seam, part one. Y seams are tricky, but there's only one for this block. So put your straps part on your rainbow part and line them up so that the tip of the strip part overhangs the seam between yellow and green. Remember that it's not about the edges of the fabric, but where the seam will be. So position the strap part so that the 0,5cm seam will meet the yellow-green seam.
But don't sew all the way! Leave 0,5cm at the tip!
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Step 6: The Y seam, part two. Now, fold both the rainbow part and the strips part in half and if you've done the last step correctly, the remaining two edges will allign. Pin and sew.
I can't explain it better than I've done here, I'm sure there are tutorias out there. Good luck!
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Step 7: Square up. Iron your block to that everything is nice and straight and flat. Then use the fabric edges of the red and purple to cut the remaining ends of the strips. Use the HST to cut the white. Be careful, the long side of the triangle is on the bias and likely stretched a bit.
I already added borders here. I'm making a pillow case.
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Step 8: Fuzzy cut and raw edge applique. Double sided iron on interfacing is essentially double sided tape. It has two types of glue, one gets activated by 2 seconds of heat, the other by 5 or so (depends on the product). The second side is also covered with a paper that needs to be removed before the second glueing. Read the instructions of the product you are using!
Use your compasses to draw a circle on the protective paper side of the interfacing. Cut it out roughly. Then place it with the rougher side on the backside of your purple fabric and iron for 2 seconds on middle heat. If you've just ironed your fabric before and the ironing board is still hot, wait for it to cool down. Also let the fabric cool down after applying. Then cut out your circle. The interfacing will have stiffened the fabric, so that shouldn't be a problem. Then remove the protective paper, place the circle on the yellow triangle where you want it and iron for 5 seconds. Let cool.
And you're done! The applique at this point is only secured with the interfacing, but it should hold fairly well. The quilting will secure it further.
And that's it. BTW, did you know that this design was made by Valentino Vecchietti for Intersex Equality Rights UK in 2021? Now you do. Happy quilting!
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20dollarlolita · 2 months
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Quick guide to inserting zippers into garments without hand-basting.
Because I know that no matter how many times I tell y'all that you need to hand-baste, you're not going to do it.
Quick note: zippers are ALWAYS easier to put in when the zipper is several inches longer than your seam. This lets you put the slide out of the way when you sew. When you're done, you can pull the slide back down and then cut the excess tape. For every zipper where it's even vaguely possible, I get a long zipper, center the bottom of the tape at the place where you want the zipper to end, and leave extra tape hanging at the top. I don't know why zippers tell you to shorten them at the bottom. It's lies. Don't believe it.
Centered zipper:
You'll use the centered zipper application when you're putting a zipper in the center back or center front of a piece. There's a different application method for side seam zippers, which we'll go into later.
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I start all zippers by machine-basting the seam closed. This is especially important on dresses, where you need the seam between the bodice and the skirt to match up. If your seam looks good basted shut, it will look good when a zipper is in there. So set your seam length to the longest, and baste the seam shut.
A note on seam allowances: You need your seam allowances to be big enough for the zipper to fit on. If your garment was made by someone insane and deranged who put a 1/4" seam allowance in a zipper seam, and you're only just not realizing it, you're going to need to sew twill tape or seam binding onto your seam allowance to make it big enough.
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Put the zipper tape onto that seam. You want the center of the teeth to line up with the center of the seam. It's called the centered application for a reason.
When you're pinning from this viewpoint, you're best equipped to make sure that the teeth are perfectly centered. I'm going to recommend pinning with the pins perpendicular to the zipper teeth. You'll see why.
However, you can't actually sew the zipper from this side, with any kind of precision, so you'll need to do the flip.
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So, go ahead and flip your garment so that you can access the right side. Next to each pin that you have on the wrong side, put a pin next to it on the right side. You can then remove the wrong-side pin.
And yes, you do need to do it like this and not just pinning from the front. It won't be centered. Trust me. It won't be centered.
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Zipper foot time. When you're sewing a zipper, you will ALWAYS sew from the top to the bottom. Put your zipper on the side of the tape where the points of your pins are.
Quick note: is your machine still set to a basting stitch? Now's the time to change it, and not after you did 13" of sewing. Ask me how I know.
Here's where you're going to decide how wide you want the lap (the fabric flaps that cover the zipper) to be. For a lot of people, this is a style choice. I like mine more narrow, and I like to just eyeball them. As long as it's straight and not stuck in the teeth, all options are fine.
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The reason that we're starting on the side with the points of the pins is that you can slide the point of the pin out of the way to sew over them, and then slide them back into place so that they hold the zipper in place for the other side.
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Once you've sewn down one side, cut your thread, bring your foot back to the top, and sew down the other side. (If you keep sewing and go up, your lapping will be wrinkled when you're done).
Once you hit the bottom of your zipper, sew a couple of stitches across the bottom, connecting the two lines of stitching. If you're using a nylon coil zipper, you can just sew straight through it. If your zipper has metal teeth or big plastic ones, sew this connecting stitch just below where the teeth end.
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Now you just take your seam ripper and take out the basting stitches, and you're done!
What about that extra zipper tape at the top? Well, if you're putting the zipper in a seam where there will be a top facing, top hem, application of lace, or anything else, you can trim the tape and the hide it in that facing/hem/lace/etc. If there's absolutely no way to hide the top of the tape, you can stitch around the top of the teeth on each side, so that the slide doesn't come off, and then trim the excess tape off.
Side application:
If you're putting a zipper in a side seam, you don't want to center it. I mean, you can if you want to, and it'll probably look fine, but it's not the technically correct application.
In a centered application, both seam allowances cover the zipper tape and hide it from view. In a side application, the front seam allowance is longer, and covers the zipper tape. The back seam allowance is just along for the ride.
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Like the centered zipper, this one starts by machine basting the seam shut.
Not everyone starts their side zippers like this, but I think that it's important because it keeps the waist seam even on both sides. People who don't like this method are going to point out that my method here does make your seam allowance 1/8" smaller than what you baste. If you think this will really mess your work up, remember to sew this seam at 1/16th" smaller than you would normally sew it. I don't ever bother with that and it never has made a difference to me. If you don't want to do it like that, you can just hand-baste this in. This is a no-hand-baste tutorial, so you're on your own for that.
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You're going to pin this in a different place. On the centered zipper, you wanted the seam to be in the middle of the teeth. In the side application, you want the seam to be right along the edge of the teeth.
You'll also note that I'm pinning differently from how I did the centered version. Here, I have the pins with the points facing the top of the zipper.
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So, always sewing top to bottom, we're going to sew down the side seam. We pointed all the pins at the top of the seam because now you can pull them out as you go.
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It's hard to tell when you're just doing a sample like this, but we're going down the seam attached to the back of the dress.
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Remember that "it takes 1/8" off the side seam" statement? Here's where it happens. We're going to take the front seam allowance, and just sneak it a little bit more over the edge. You're just going to roll it so that it covers that previous line of stitching. Then you're going to pin in place and sew down the other side. At the bottom, just like you did with the centered zip, you're going to turn a right angle and sew along the bottom, closing off the lapping.
I find that my favorite width of this is to sew where the fold of the lap to the line of stitching measures at about 1/2". If you're not good at eyeballing this, some people like to use tape as a topstitching guide.
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Just like with the last one, time to take out the basting stitches that hold the seam shut, and there's your zipper.
Invisible zipper application:
NO.
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