I brought the skirt I'm working on to the museum yesterday, to get some hand-sewing done at the desk between tours (a lot of my projects end up being done half-hand and half-machine, because I love working on the train or during downtime at my various jobs). you know, the one made of the God-Tier WoolTM
when I invited my coworker, a 19-year-old student, to feel the fabric- in that "OH MY GOD FEEL THIS!!!" tone -her jaw dropped
she had never felt soft, light- or even medium-weight wool in her life. she previously thought, it turns out, that all wool was coarse, heavy, and itchy. she couldn't stop stroking it with that awestruck look on her face
truly, fuck fast fashion and the modern garment industry. for depriving us of sensory richness in our clothing so thoroughly that most of us don't even know what we've lost
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Fabric types and summer heat
The world is seeing record temperatures again. A lot of people find little comfort in their summer wardrobe these days, so it's important to be aware of how fabric types can influence your well-being in hot weather.
The following list of fabrics is by no means exhaustive, but it covers the basics.
Some of the fabrics mentioned below are expensive when bought new. You'll often find them for cheap in second-hand shops and on thrifting platforms though. I'm literally wearing a €5 linen underskirt, a €1 silk top, and a €7 silk summer dress right now, just to give an example.
General notes:
If you don't know where to start, try to stick to light-weight fabrics made of natural fibres. Look for light colours and open weaves.
You might be tempted to cover as little skin as possible in order to keep cool, but this leaves your skin vulnerable to sunburn. A thin layer of linen will often be more efficient at keeping you cool than leaving your skin bare.
Don't forget to wear sunscreen! Even if your skin type doesn't burn easily, it will still lower your chances of skin cancer. Look into sunscreens for children if you have sensory issues: they tend to be more sensory-friendly.
(Image source 1) [ID 1: a gray linen fabric with a tight weave.] / (Image source 2) [ID 2: a gray linen fabric with a loose weave.]
Polyester (to avoid):
Are your summer clothes making you ridiculously sweaty? Check the tag: you're probably wearing polyester.
Polyester is a synthetic fabric derived from petroleum: it's basically a plastic. It's strong, cheap, and stain resistant, which makes it a popular fabric. Even though a lot of summer clothes are made out of polyester, it's one of the worst fabrics to wear in summer.
Polyester is neither absorbent nor breathable, and captures heat. It traps sweat between your skin and your clothes, and it won't let you cool down. This leaves you feeling sticky and overheated. It can also cause static cling, which can be uncomfortable.
Not all synthetic fabrics are bad in summer: a lot of UV-blocking clothes are made of synthetics for example and can be a real life saver if you're sensitive to the sun. Try to avoid polyester if you can, though.
(Image source) [ID: close-up on a blue tightly woven polyester fabric that folds into a swirl at its centre.]
Cotton:
Cotton is a natural fibre that makes for a soft, durable, and breathable fabric. It allows air to circulate around your body which helps to keep you cool and get rid of sweat. It's a good basic choice.
Cotton has one downside: it's very absorbent, but takes a while to dry. If the weather's making you sweat excessively, the sweat can pool into the fabric of your cotton clothes. This will make them wet, resulting in visible sweat stains that can feel uncomfortable and will take a long time to dry.
If you can't stand how cotton feels, check out chambray weaves or bamboo textiles. They have similar properties to plain-weave cotton, but tend to be more sensory-friendly.
(Image source) [ID: close-up on a faded yellow tightly woven cotton fabric that folds into a swirl at its centre.]
Linen:
Linen is the absolute king of hot weather fabrics. It's strong, absorbent, dries quickly, and is very breathable. It cools you down, but won't make you feel sticky because any sweat it absorbs will evaporate fast.
I frequently layer multiple thin loose-fitting linen garments when it's hot. Loose layers allow for air to circulate between your clothes while protecting your skin from the sun. It almost functions as a wearable air-conditioner.
Note that linen is prone to wrinkling. If this bothers you, know that linen requires extra effort during laundry to avoid this.
(Image source) [ID: close-up on a gray woven linen fabric that folds into a swirl at its centre.]
Silk:
Silk is yet another natural fibre that makes for a strong, quick-drying, and pretty breathable fabric. It's soft and cool to the touch, which makes it a great sensory choice.
Silk is not as breathable as cotton or linen, but dries very quickly. This means it might make you sweat more than cotton or linen does, but once the fabric's moist it will dry faster.
Note that sweat stains on silk tend to be pretty visible. Silk's also prone to static cling.
(Image source) [ID: close-up on a light brown tightly woven silk fabric that folds into a swirl at its centre.]
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Researchers separate cotton from polyester in blended fabric
In a new study, North Carolina State University researchers found they could separate blended cotton and polyester fabric using enzymes—nature's tools for speeding chemical reactions. Ultimately, they hope their findings will lead to a more efficient way to recycle the fabric's component materials, thereby reducing textile waste.
However, they also found the process need more steps if the blended fabric was dyed or treated with chemicals that increase wrinkle resistance.
"We can separate all of the cotton out of a cotton-polyester blend, meaning now we have clean polyester that can be recycled," said the study's corresponding author Sonja Salmon, associate professor of textile engineering, chemistry and science at NC State.
"In a landfill, the polyester is not going to degrade, and the cotton might take several months or more to break down. Using our method, we can separate the cotton from polyester in less than 48 hours."
Read more.
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