#starting some small square resin boards today | Explore Tumblr Posts and Blogs

southswellsurfshop · 1 year

Text

How To Choose Your First Surfboard?

Like a musician learning a new instrument, a new surfer needs the right equipment. With all of the sizes and styles available today, it can be challenging to choose your first surfboard. To get you out on the water learning the basics, we've put together a surfboard guide for beginners weighing their options.

The Shape of Your First Surfboard

If you're entirely new to surfing, don't get too caught up on tail shape or how many fins it has. Those features make it easier for experienced surfers to maneuver, making the learning curve steeper for new surfers.

The best beginner boards have wide, rounded noses and thick and wide square tails. This beginner design allows you to catch a bunch of waves due to the high buoyancy of the board. It will enable you to paddle quickly on top of the water as you tune in your paddling muscles.

Surfboard Sizes and Length

The first thing you'll want to determine is how long your new surfboard should be. Your first surfboard should be about 7' - 9' long. However, you need to consider a few factors such as height, weight, and fitness.

As an example:

7' Surfboard is a good start for someone that is 80lbs - 120lbs

8' Surfboard is a good start for someone that is 120lbs - 160lbs

9' Surfboard is a good start for someone that is 160lbs - 200lbs

Remember, this is just a rule of thumb, but the longer the board, the easier it is to paddle and catch small waves. The shorter the board, the more challenging it is to paddle when catching small waves.

If you've taken some lessons, it's a good idea to ask your instructor what size board you were riding. If you have not taken surfing lessons, it's a wise choice to rent a few different sizes to find the perfect board before making your initial investment.

A good starting place is the INT Classic surfboard. Ranging from seven to nine feet long, it's a well-rounded board perfect for beginners and allows for a bit of progression.

Surfboard Width

Your new surfboard should be around 21" - 24" wide, no matter your size.

Many entry-level surfboards are usually in that range. The wider the board, the more stable a platform you have to ride the wave on, reducing its maneuverability or performance. A long wide board is a perfect combination for your beginner surfboard.

Thickness

Thicker, the better! Foam is your friend as a beginner surfer. Your first board should be at least 2.5" thick and could be as thick as 3". Remember, foam is your friend, and adding thickness is the easiest way to increase the amount of foam in your board to create more buoyancy.

The thicker the board, the easier it will be to recover from the bumps and bobbles while learning and increasing your wave time.

If you plan on surfing a lot, you're going to be carrying your surfboard to the beach often, so you want to make sure your board is comfortable to carry!

Surfboard Construction

Now that we've talked about what your first surfboard should look like, let's talk about what it should be made of. Today, surfboards can be made of various materials, each with its own pros and cons.

Foamie or Soft-top

A foam or soft-top surfboard is perfect for testing the waters literally and figuratively. They're soft, buoyant, and often the least expensive types, meaning they're great for unsure beginners and children. They're the most durable, but they will need the proper care to increase their lifetime like anything.

Epoxy

Though they've become more popular in recent years, epoxy surfboards were first produced in the 1950s. Largely mass-produced using molds, epoxy boards are lighter, durable, and generally more expensive than soft-top boards. They also require little maintenance, making them an excellent choice for a beginner board for someone that wants something that wants a traditional surfboard feel and look.

Polyurethane

Like epoxy boards, poly surfboards are light. They're made with a polyurethane core wrapped in fiberglass and covered with protective resin. The way poly boards are manufactured creates a consistent flex pattern. This construction is the industry standard in surfboard manufacturing.

However, poly boards are more accessible to damage than epoxy. On the plus side, they're relatively easy to repair.

Wood

A beginner probably shouldn't buy a wood surfboard for their first one. They're eco-friendly, beautiful, and durable, but they're also heavy, expensive, and require maintenance. Save this investment for later in your surfing career.

Consider Your Surfing Conditions

With all of that being said, if you've had some lessons, you may have developed some preferences. For instance, maybe you prefer to keep cruising small waves while improving your skills set. In that case, a longboard like the J. Brazie Captain's Log or the Doyle Noserider is the perfect choice for the smaller days.

If you're getting the basics down and ready to take the next step into your surfing journey, a shorter board like a 6'4 Full Nose Fish by AJW Surfboards would be a great choice.

Just remember to be honest about your skill set before making a jump to your second surfboard.

Research Your Local Beaches

Different weather types and geographical features mean there's a long list of wave types out there. If you live near a long, sandy beach, you're likely to encounter a lot of mellow beach breaks. For rocky coastlines, fast point breaks dominate and aren't well-suited for beginners.

No matter what kind of board you decide on, always do your research. Talk to surfers and local surf shop employees.

Like other passionate hobbyists, most are thrilled to help beginners. Make some new friends and learn to love the sport of surfing!

Shop South Swell Surf Shop

In 2008, our passion for surfing led us to purchase a surf shop in Emerald Isle, North Carolina, that was going out of business. Since then, we've rebranded, re-organized the inventory, and breathed new life into an east coast surfing institution. Shop our surfboards online or in-store and if you have any questions, feel free to contact us.

At South Swell, we're surfers who remember what it was like being new. Let our experience help you break into the exciting world of surfing.

#surfing #surfer #surfboard #surfer girl #South Swell Surf Shop #Surf Shop #How To Choose Your First Surfboard?

1 note · View note

queerdagny · 3 years

Text

Here are some of the Nancy Drew specific things on our Etsy shop. This is a fun creative venture that really does help us, and Y’all can benefit from it too by having fun Nancy Drew merch that her interactive doesn’t sell (and that Penny Milliken hasn’t gotten her cash grabbing hands on)

#nancy drew #starting some small square resin boards today #and also a long boi #and also another big square boy #also going to come up with more sticker ideas #personal #Etsy

12 notes · View notes

thesteveyates · 5 years

Text

Just recently i picked up an older thread idea and series of mine : highlighting a group of boats, often cheap projects popping up on Ebay. In the previous post of this series i quickly featured 3 boats as i remember it and then the very same week another 3 or 4 viable small boat projects came up although by then i’d run out of blogging time and just had to be doing other, essential things instead . Thus i got a bowsprit made, a drill bench finished and the curious cabinets mounted but didn’t put out a follow-up post.

On Ebay it just seemed that everyone with an old boat in their back paddock (almost said their back passage !) suddenly woke up and stuck them up for auction. There was a whole slew of small viable boats just asking for a bit of love : several Achilles 24’s, frequently mentioned here, ditto some neat Corribee’s, a sad but rescue-able Memory gaffer and then the ones i featured.

Just after that i got all moist myself when one boat popped up that i really, really liked the look of myself…..a wooden boat too !. Now, you all probably know where this is going as that’s what happened last year with ‘Inanda’ and shortly before that nearly happened with a little English Folkboat (Chuckle made me smile !). I do have a thing about wooden boats because they have ‘soul’ and ‘character’…..it’s just that me and wooden boats don’t belong in the same sentence. If you knew me you wouldn’t put my name and highly skilled, and then wood and finally boatbuilder anywhere near each other. ‘Inanda’ was clearly a mistake and a physical one because the work required would have been brutally horrible on my recent knee replacement.

However…..despite doing the mental equivalent of writing out 50 times : i will not look at wooden boat projects on ebay, i will not look at wooden boat projects on ebay,i will not look at wooden boat projects on ebay……and so on…..after about the tenth time it becomes ‘oh look….nice wooden boat project on ebay”.

What really got me thinking and wishing was a 27 foot wooden gaff cutter with a centerboard and essentially laid-up in a boatyard after the death of her owner. Now don’t panic too much, the bidding went past my set limit the day before the auction was due to end and on the day i quite deliberately closed myself away in the workshop and turned the computer off. The thing is that although it was a wooden boat, she was cold -moulded and quite recently built, essentially an FRP boat and the kind of thing that i can cope with working on. It was the kind of project that had me wondering if i could have got my boat around to the east coast, lived aboard while i did the refit and even did some agency work over there to pay the bills. Luckily i think that she was some 300 miles away and not just down the road so i couldn’t just go and ‘take a look’ and get all enthusiastic.

Well, it’s kind-of happened again and with one of the very few wooden boats that i really have actively researched and considered owning : and it comes on a trailer. As the yard here starts to empty out and with me still owning a viable towing vehicle, perhaps for the last year, it really got me thinking about a genuine retirement project boat….except that i would have to do some work to pay for materials and yard space….Catch 22. Luckily again the boat in question is so far away that it’s technically in another country : Scotland and some 600 miles away in a straight line.

Well, what is it precious ?…..here then : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sailing-boat-26-ft/283424415969?hash=item41fd6960e1:g:Kf8AAOSwqCJckjlT

Amazingly there are 2 of them on the site right now although the second one is a classified listing. They are both of course Fairey Atalanta’s and the connection today is the hot molded and glue posts one.

This is the actual boat on auction, currently sitting at £700.

Regular followers will know that i am enthusiastic about this very quirky design because it would meet so many of my sailing requirements : larger than the Liberty, more powerful and seaworthy and with a shallow/variable draft with it’s twin bilge-boards. I have covered the history and design before (Uffa Fox and airoplane builders ‘Fairey’ but it did make me look again at the glue connection because of my recent work and the fact that the Fairey works had also built aeroplanes in wood. The direct connection entailed quite a lot more research about glue and hot moulding.

Just as a reminder here is what a fully restored Atalanta can look like. (owners website pictures) What i discovered in the first round of research was that it wasn’t really an Atalanta i wanted but the slightly larger and boxier ‘Titania’ which, i believe, has a taller hull. I think the white one below is a ‘Titania’

I still love the odd looking 1950’s design and that curved cabin top, sort of a cross between yellow submarine and wooden aircraft. I was never quite sure about the accommodation because it has to be divided into 2 separate parts for and aft by the central cockpit. That makes both cabins small although there is potential to make the 2 aft bunks into one much larger double, my objection as i remember it from going aboard an Atalanta being that i couldn’t sit up comfortably in the aft cabin but might be able to in the boxier Titania.

Because of my current practical research into boatbuilding glues and the history of making lightweight boat and aircraft parts in wood i went back for another look at the hot molding technique. The following is taken from Wikipedia :

”

The hot moulding process was an adaptation to post war boat building of the method originally developed by de Havillands in the 1930s for “stressed skin” wooden aircraft production, using layers of thin birch plywood sandwiched together with glue over a male mould and “cooked” in a large oven called an “autoclave” By using true mass-production techniques, Fairey Marine were able to turn out vast numbers of identical boats at an unprecedented quality and price. Moulds were constructed from spruce, built up on a steel base plate. Seven by three inches planks cut to the waterplane sections provided the starting point. Working from the sheerline, the planks were built up in a series of steps, arriving quickly at a close representation of the designed shape. Subsequent fairing yielded finished dimensions. Rebates for the keel, stem and transom completed the mould building process. Although the veneers used to produce Fairey boats may appear to be parallel sided, every one was in fact profiled. Rather than shaping each veneer to fit on the mould, as in traditional boat building, Faireys saved an enormous amount of time by sawing complete sets of veneers to precision patterns. Veneers were produced in stacks of six. Boat were then typically built in batches of 24 or 36. Early boats used 1/8″ spruce ply, surplus to the War Department’s de Havilland Mosquitoaircraft programme. When this material became unavailable it was replaced by 2.5 mm agba veneers.

Chosen for its high gum content, agba formed easily without splitting and glued well. All the dinghy classes used just three agba veneers while some of the bigger boats used up to six. Initially all the veneers were laid at 45° while later boats changed to fore and aft outer planking for aesthetic reasons. With the keel, stem and transom in place, veneers were applied starting on the centreline and working out towards the shear. Each veneer was held in place by just three staples at the keel, bilge and shearline. Roller-application of Borden One-Shot waterproof glue preceded each veneer except the first. With all veneers in place a vacuum bag was drawn over the moulding and secured in place using a clamp plate and G-clamps. Early vacuum bags were made from war surplus barrage balloon fabric. After about 1950, individual rubber bags were prepared on the moulds using uncured rubber sheets which were subsequently vulcanised in the autoclaves used for production.[6]

Placed in the autoclave, the vacuum was drawn down to 27/28 inches water-gauge and steam at a pressure of some 50 pounds per square inch introduced. Processing took about 45 minutes at 100 °C. Curing at elevated temperatures under vacuum not only ensured that all the veneers were firmly consolidated – a process requiring many thousands of staples using the conventional cold-moulding process – but allowed for the use of a truly waterproof, single part, high-temperature curing glue. During the curing process the glue impregnated the wood resulting in a virtually rot-proof finished shell. Components such as side-decks were also hot moulded while other parts required for assembly were cut to patterns in the same way as the skin veneers. For one of the more complex boats, the International 14, the time for final construction from bare hull to finished boat was set at 230-man-hours compared to 400–500 hours associated with traditional construction.”

So, in my earlier post about glue and the famous ‘Mosquito‘ i think i said that the Mosquito ‘hull’ (fuselage of course) and wings were cold-moulded. It seems that was an error on my part and as above that they were made in a hot mould and possibly an autoclave like oven. I really had to stretch my memory to see if i could remember any aircraft that Fairey (aviation) made and could only think of the ‘Swordfish‘ and deliberately didn’t do a search because i just knew i would then be there all night : again !. As it happens i don’t think the famous ‘Swordfish‘ was made of wood although it was already an obsolete biplane at the start of WW2…..didn’t stop it crippling the Bismark though !

That brings us onto the glue used…..’Borden’ glue.

The nearest looking link i can find so far is this : and i can’t be sure that it’s the same stuff although it does seem to be a resorcinol resin product. http://www.hallmarkfraulo.co.uk/assets/pdf/Resorcinol_Generic_Information.pdf

This weeks progress on glue then.

No, i still haven’t completed a project with either cascamite or resorcinol resin but what i think i may have done is worked out a simple clamping and holding technique for my potential hollow wooden mast project and that basically uses webbing and an over-centre ratchet to take up the pressure and then very wide and long cable ties to keep the pressure on….would be easier to show than to explain.

Anyway…todays aircraft-porn for those who are into that kind of thing.

The Fairey ‘Swordfish’…..i don’t ever remember seeing one although i guess there would be one at the Fleet air arm museum near Yeovil. (Tanks are more my thing)

Weekends and sticky moments. Just recently i picked up an older thread idea and series of mine : highlighting a group of boats, often cheap projects popping up on Ebay.

#borden glue #Ebay boats #Fairey Atalanta #fairey titania #glue #resorcinol resin

0 notes

endlessarchite · 6 years

Text

Mini Garden Deck | Scrap Deck Boards Made Useful

This “mini garden deck” made from scrap deck boards has already made a huge difference in keeping my feet dry around the new vegetable garden.

Hey everyone! As you saw from yesterday’s deck update, I’ve been spending a lot of time outside. Between that, the new vegetable garden, and the new shed build, I’ve been in a summer state of mind for quite some time. I’ve also kind of HAD IT with walking on muddy dirt patches (Georgia’s spring rains this year have been nuts!). With summer officially starting today, and with plenty of scrap deck boards around, I decided to hop in with the #scrapwoodchallenge and created my own solution for better garden maintenance. I’m calling it my “mini garden deck” !

My new vegetable garden bed has been a learning process. One part of that has been realizing that this area is going to get a lot of upkeep-related foot traffic.

So, as proud as I am of how well things are going, I have noticed a major drawback: frequent visits have made the inner triangle of the L-shaped garden bed a little dirt-rich… and grass-poor. I put down some landscaping fabric intending on eventually covering it with gravel, but then realized how well the leftover deck boards could solve the problem… without an additional materials purchase!

Recommended Tools and Materials

may contain affiliate links

scrap pressure-treated deck boards

stair balusters (other strips of scrap wood is fine, I just used what I had available)

miter saw

drill

speed square

pencil

exterior screws

plastic spacers (optional – see below)

landscaping fabric

The deck boards I used are designated for Ground Contact, which is recommended for wood projects that sit within six inches of the ground. You can find more about that here.

How to make a mini garden deck from scrap wood

Start in the middle

Keeping in mind that this was scrap, I basically took the materials available. I bought stair balusters and wound up not needing them, and I’m kind of terrible about returning leftover materials. I used these as stringers for fastening the deck boards together. Many had been cut already to fit the floating deck (and therefore could not be returned), but some were long enough pieces where they could be reused.

Since I was kind of winging it, I placed the stair balusters on the ground, on top of the landscaping fabric and spread them out, fanning in a sort of triangle shape. These would be what I would screw the deck boards to. If you’ve ever seen a wooden sign and looked on the back, it’s a pretty similar concept (such as here and here).

I began where I thought would be the middle (ish) of the L-shaped area, and cut my deck board at 45-degree angles on both ends.

From this, I cut more pieces to help form a triangle shape until the space was filled. I dry fit each board into place and then began fastening them to the strips underneath.

Spacing

For spacing, I used some old plastic spacers I bought a long time ago for installing the laminate flooring in my house (just held onto them, because I just knew they’d be useful again ). If you don’t have something like this, insert a few nails between the boards — anything that will serve as a temporary wedge to provide a small gap. You’re mainly looking for spacing to allow the wood to expand and contract with moisture fluctuations.

Screw together and fan out

I screwed in the first board on both ends where it met the stringers from the top down (2 screws on each end of the board, 2 screws down the middle). When the board was attached and spacing set, I moved the spacers to the next gap and fastened the next board. So on, and so on, until the entire triangle was complete.

If you were to look at the back, it would look like a hot mess — the stringers (the stair balusters) that attach to the deck boards are practically random in their placement.

But since you’ll never see them, all that really matters is that they are enough material to hold the entire thing together. Since the ground was soft from the frequent rain, I merely needed to stand on it the new platform to sort squish into the ground and hold in place. The corner was kind of an awkward spot with how narrow it got, so working an extra piece of the baluster (vertically) into the corner was a perfect fit.

And boom: no more muddy feet when maintaining the garden. It actually kind of finishes the area nicely, too.

There’s still a little more work to be done to make the widest end look more finished, but since I still have the shed build left to complete, I’ll wait to use up the remaining full-length deck boards before re-purposing one for the garden bed. This whole area is going to look so great!

I just love scrap wood projects… so feel free to do a little looking around at the links on this list. Jen from House of Wood asked a bunch of us to share some scrap ideas, and there’s LOTS more below!

Check out these other awesome Scrap Wood projects:

The House of Wood – DIY Bunk Buddy

3×3 Custom – Scrap Wood Trivets

Ugly Duckling House – Mini Garden Deck — that’s HERE! —

The Created Home – Animal Coin Banks

Her Toolbelt – 3D Pixel Art

The Kim Six Fix – Outdoor Drink Stakes

DIY Huntress – Scrap Wood Coasters

Mr. Build It & Mrs. Style It – Bent Plywood Headphone Stand

At Charlotte’s House – Buffalo Check Tray

Sawdust 2 Stitches – Scrap Wood Wall Decor

Bower Power – Pallet Baseball Hat Rack

Pneumatic Addict – Table with Epoxy Resin

Anika’s DIY Life – DIY Spice Rack

100 Things 2 Do – DIY Can Crusher

Hazel + Gold Designs – Patio Table Drink Holder

Reality Daydream – Scrap Wood Shoe Cabinet

House Becoming Home – Modern DIY Clock

Chatfield Court – Wooden Garden Obelisk

The post Mini Garden Deck | Scrap Deck Boards Made Useful appeared first on Ugly Duckling House.

More Where That Came From

How to Build a Concrete Form for an Outdoor Pad

The Gardenia Garden Beds Are Thriving!

Growing Seedlings for My First Veggie Garden

Simple DIY Tricks for Covered Porch Plants

.yuzo_related_post img{width:170px !important; height:170px !important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb{line-height:14px;background:#ffffff !important;color:#454747!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb:hover{background:#ffffff !important; -webkit-transition: background 0.2s linear; -moz-transition: background 0.2s linear; -o-transition: background 0.2s linear; transition: background 0.2s linear;;color:#454747!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb a{color:#102a3b!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb a:hover{ color:#113f5e}!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb:hover a{ color:#113f5e!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb:hover .yuzo__text--title{ color:#113f5e!important;} .yuzo_related_post .yuzo_text, .yuzo_related_post .yuzo_views_post {color:#454747!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb:hover .yuzo_text, .yuzo_related_post:hover .yuzo_views_post {color:#454747!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb{ margin: 0px 6px 0px 6px; padding: 0px 0px 0px 0px; } jQuery(document).ready(function( $ ){ jQuery('.yuzo_related_post .yuzo_wraps').equalizer({ columns : '> div' }); }); Mini Garden Deck | Scrap Deck Boards Made Useful published first on https://bakerskitchenslimited.tumblr.com/

0 notes

alexrodriguespage · 6 years

Text

Mini Garden Deck | Scrap Deck Boards Made Useful

This “mini garden deck” made from scrap deck boards has already made a huge difference in keeping my feet dry around the new vegetable garden.

My new vegetable garden bed has been a learning process. One part of that has been realizing that this area is going to get a lot of upkeep-related foot traffic.

So, as proud as I am of how well things are going, I have noticed a major drawback: frequent visits have made the inner triangle of the L-shaped garden bed a little dirt-rich and grass-poor. I put down some landscaping fabric intending on eventually covering it with gravel, but then realized how well the leftover deck boards could solve the problem… without an additional materials purchase!

Recommended Tools and Materials

may contain affiliate links

scrap pressure-treated deck boards

stair balusters (other strips of scrap wood is fine, I just used what I had available)

miter saw

drill

speed square

pencil

exterior screws

plastic spacers (optional – see below)

landscaping fabric

The deck boards I used are designated for Ground Contact, which is recommended for wood projects that sit within six inches of the ground. You can find more about that here.

How to make a mini garden deck from scrap wood

Start in the middle

I began where I thought would be the middle (ish) of the L-shaped area, and cut my deck board at 45-degree angles on both ends.

From this, I cut more pieces to help form a triangle shape until the space was filled. I dry fit each board into place and then began fastening them to the strips underneath.

Spacing

Screw together and fan out

If you were to look at the back, it would look like a hot mess — the stringers (the stair balusters) that attach to the deck boards are practically random in their placement.

And boom: no more muddy feet when maintaining the garden. It actually kind of finishes the area nicely, too.

Check out these other awesome Scrap Wood projects:

The House of Wood – DIY Bunk Buddy

3×3 Custom – Scrap Wood Trivets

Ugly Duckling House – Mini Garden Deck — that’s HERE! —

The Created Home – Animal Coin Banks

Her Toolbelt – 3D Pixel Art

The Kim Six Fix – Outdoor Drink Stakes

DIY Huntress – Scrap Wood Coasters

Mr. Build It & Mrs. Style It – Bent Plywood Headphone Stand

At Charlotte’s House – Buffalo Check Tray

Sawdust 2 Stitches – Scrap Wood Wall Decor

Bower Power – Pallet Baseball Hat Rack

Pneumatic Addict – Table with Epoxy Resin

Anika’s DIY Life – DIY Spice Rack

100 Things 2 Do – DIY Can Crusher

Hazel + Gold Designs – Patio Table Drink Holder

Reality Daydream – Scrap Wood Shoe Cabinet

House Becoming Home – Modern DIY Clock

Chatfield Court – Wooden Garden Obelisk

The post Mini Garden Deck | Scrap Deck Boards Made Useful appeared first on Ugly Duckling House.

More Where That Came From

How to Build a Concrete Form for an Outdoor Pad

The Gardenia Garden Beds Are Thriving!

Growing Seedlings for My First Veggie Garden

DIY Floating Deck, Part 1: Planning and Layout

0 notes

georgeycowell · 6 years

Text

Mini Garden Deck | Scrap Deck Boards Made Useful

This “mini garden deck” made from scrap deck boards has already made a huge difference in keeping my feet dry around the new vegetable garden.

My new vegetable garden bed has been a learning process. One part of that has been realizing that this area is going to get a lot of upkeep-related foot traffic.

Recommended Tools and Materials

may contain affiliate links

scrap pressure-treated deck boards

stair balusters (other strips of scrap wood is fine, I just used what I had available)

miter saw

drill

speed square

pencil

exterior screws

plastic spacers (optional – see below)

landscaping fabric

The deck boards I used are designated for Ground Contact, which is recommended for wood projects that sit within six inches of the ground. You can find more about that here.

How to make a mini garden deck from scrap wood

Start in the middle

I began where I thought would be the middle (ish) of the L-shaped area, and cut my deck board at 45-degree angles on both ends.

From this, I cut more pieces to help form a triangle shape until the space was filled. I dry fit each board into place and then began fastening them to the strips underneath.

Spacing

Screw together and fan out

If you were to look at the back, it would look like a hot mess — the stringers (the stair balusters) that attach to the deck boards are practically random in their placement.

And boom: no more muddy feet when maintaining the garden. It actually kind of finishes the area nicely, too.

Check out these other awesome Scrap Wood projects:

The House of Wood – DIY Bunk Buddy

3×3 Custom – Scrap Wood Trivets

Ugly Duckling House – Mini Garden Deck — that’s HERE! —

The Created Home – Animal Coin Banks

Her Toolbelt – 3D Pixel Art

The Kim Six Fix – Outdoor Drink Stakes

DIY Huntress – Scrap Wood Coasters

Mr. Build It & Mrs. Style It – Bent Plywood Headphone Stand

At Charlotte’s House – Buffalo Check Tray

Sawdust 2 Stitches – Scrap Wood Wall Decor

Bower Power – Pallet Baseball Hat Rack

Pneumatic Addict – Table with Epoxy Resin

Anika’s DIY Life – DIY Spice Rack

100 Things 2 Do – DIY Can Crusher

Hazel + Gold Designs – Patio Table Drink Holder

Reality Daydream – Scrap Wood Shoe Cabinet

House Becoming Home – Modern DIY Clock

Chatfield Court – Wooden Garden Obelisk

The post Mini Garden Deck | Scrap Deck Boards Made Useful appeared first on Ugly Duckling House.

More Where That Came From

How to Build a Concrete Form for an Outdoor Pad

The Gardenia Garden Beds Are Thriving!

Growing Seedlings for My First Veggie Garden

DIY Floating Deck, Part 1: Planning and Layout

.yuzo_related_post img{width:170px !important; height:170px !important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb{line-height:14px;background:#ffffff !important;color:#454747!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb:hover{background:#ffffff !important; -webkit-transition: background 0.2s linear; -moz-transition: background 0.2s linear; -o-transition: background 0.2s linear; transition: background 0.2s linear;;color:#454747!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb a{color:#102a3b!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb a:hover{ color:#113f5e}!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb:hover a{ color:#113f5e!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb:hover .yuzo__text--title{ color:#113f5e!important;} .yuzo_related_post .yuzo_text, .yuzo_related_post .yuzo_views_post {color:#454747!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb:hover .yuzo_text, .yuzo_related_post:hover .yuzo_views_post {color:#454747!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb{ margin: 0px 6px 0px 6px; padding: 0px 0px 0px 0px; } jQuery(document).ready(function( $ ){ jQuery('.yuzo_related_post .yuzo_wraps').equalizer({ columns : '> div' }); }); from Home https://www.uglyducklinghouse.com/diy-mini-garden-deck/ via http://www.rssmix.com/

#construction

0 notes

garagedoorsbrighton · 6 years

Text

Mini Garden Deck | Scrap Deck Boards Made Useful

This “mini garden deck” made from scrap deck boards has already made a huge difference in keeping my feet dry around the new vegetable garden.

My new vegetable garden bed has been a learning process. One part of that has been realizing that this area is going to get a lot of upkeep-related foot traffic.

Recommended Tools and Materials

may contain affiliate links

scrap pressure-treated deck boards

stair balusters (other strips of scrap wood is fine, I just used what I had available)

miter saw

drill

speed square

pencil

exterior screws

plastic spacers (optional – see below)

landscaping fabric

The deck boards I used are designated for Ground Contact, which is recommended for wood projects that sit within six inches of the ground. You can find more about that here.

How to make a mini garden deck from scrap wood

Start in the middle

I began where I thought would be the middle (ish) of the L-shaped area, and cut my deck board at 45-degree angles on both ends.

From this, I cut more pieces to help form a triangle shape until the space was filled. I dry fit each board into place and then began fastening them to the strips underneath.

Spacing

Screw together and fan out

If you were to look at the back, it would look like a hot mess — the stringers (the stair balusters) that attach to the deck boards are practically random in their placement.

And boom: no more muddy feet when maintaining the garden. It actually kind of finishes the area nicely, too.

Check out these other awesome Scrap Wood projects:

The House of Wood – DIY Bunk Buddy

3×3 Custom – Scrap Wood Trivets

Ugly Duckling House – Mini Garden Deck — that’s HERE! —

The Created Home – Animal Coin Banks

Her Toolbelt – 3D Pixel Art

The Kim Six Fix – Outdoor Drink Stakes

DIY Huntress – Scrap Wood Coasters

Mr. Build It & Mrs. Style It – Bent Plywood Headphone Stand

At Charlotte’s House – Buffalo Check Tray

Sawdust 2 Stitches – Scrap Wood Wall Decor

Bower Power – Pallet Baseball Hat Rack

Pneumatic Addict – Table with Epoxy Resin

Anika’s DIY Life – DIY Spice Rack

100 Things 2 Do – DIY Can Crusher

Hazel + Gold Designs – Patio Table Drink Holder

Reality Daydream – Scrap Wood Shoe Cabinet

House Becoming Home – Modern DIY Clock

Chatfield Court – Wooden Garden Obelisk

The post Mini Garden Deck | Scrap Deck Boards Made Useful appeared first on Ugly Duckling House.

More Where That Came From

How to Build a Concrete Form for an Outdoor Pad

The Gardenia Garden Beds Are Thriving!

Growing Seedlings for My First Veggie Garden

DIY Floating Deck, Part 1: Planning and Layout

.yuzo_related_post img{width:170px !important; height:170px !important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb{line-height:14px;background:#ffffff !important;color:#454747!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb:hover{background:#ffffff !important; -webkit-transition: background 0.2s linear; -moz-transition: background 0.2s linear; -o-transition: background 0.2s linear; transition: background 0.2s linear;;color:#454747!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb a{color:#102a3b!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb a:hover{ color:#113f5e}!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb:hover a{ color:#113f5e!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb:hover .yuzo__text--title{ color:#113f5e!important;} .yuzo_related_post .yuzo_text, .yuzo_related_post .yuzo_views_post {color:#454747!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb:hover .yuzo_text, .yuzo_related_post:hover .yuzo_views_post {color:#454747!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb{ margin: 0px 6px 0px 6px; padding: 0px 0px 0px 0px; } jQuery(document).ready(function( $ ){ jQuery('.yuzo_related_post .yuzo_wraps').equalizer({ columns : '> div' }); }); from Ugly Duckling House https://www.uglyducklinghouse.com/diy-mini-garden-deck/

#Ugly Duckling House

0 notes

readpleasereview · 7 years

Text

Best Laminate Flooring

So, you’re finally ready to update your old flooring! We spent 27 hours researching everything there is to know about laminate flooring and testing to find the best brands on the market regarding durability, long-lasting quality, and price. No need for you to waste any more time weeding through the possibilities because we’ve already done it for you. All five of the brands we reviewed are loved by professionals and DIYers alike. Don’t wait any longer, check out the skinny on five of the top brands of laminate flooring below.

Table of Contents

Best Overall Laminate Flooring

Best High-End Laminate Flooring

Most Well-Known Laminate Flooring

Best Budget Laminate Flooring

What is Laminate Flooring

Things to Consider

Advantages of Laminate Flooring

How to Clean

How to Cut

How to Remove

View on Amazon

Best Overall Laminate Flooring

Armstrong Flooring

Armstrong is a company that’s built on a legacy that stretches back over 150 years. Thomas Armstrong started out as a two-man cork cutting shop in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania in 1860 and to this day, Armstrong Flooring is holding strong as a leader and manufacturer of innovative flooring solutions. The name Armstrong is well-respected in the flooring world, and we love that they are working hard, pioneering ways to recycle and conserve resources to help conserve the planet.

View on Amazon

Best High-End Laminate Flooring

Mohawk

Mohawk laid down their first flooring product – carpets – in 1878. They’ve been at it a long enough to know how to do it right. The name is a leader in the flooring industry including laminate flooring. Today they continue their long-standing tradition of quality flooring products with their award-winning design and outstanding service. The company is dedicated to environmentally responsible practices which we love!

View on Amazon

Most Well-Known Laminate Flooring

Pergo

The Pergo brand is the international division of the Swedish company Perstorp which became famous for inventing laminate flooring in 1977. Perstorp international division sells under the brand name Pergo which it brought to the United States in 1994. Throughout its history, Pergo has managed to maintain a high degree of quality and is known for being a top-quality product in the flooring industry. Customers look for the name Pergo because they know they won’t go wrong choosing it. Pergo has one of the highest costs in the industry, but you’ll quickly understand why as their products bar none.

View on Amazon

Best Budget Laminate Flooring

Quick-Step

Quick-Step is creating high-quality flooring, with some of the best consumer warranties available, right here in the United States. Unlike many of their competitors, they are producing planks up to 54 inches in length to create a more authentic look in your home or office. They offer a residential limited lifetime warranty that covers staining, wearing and fading that is unparalleled in the industry.

youtube

What is Laminate Flooring?

Redoing your floors can be a big-ticket item when it comes to remodeling. However, the ‘wow’ factor is profound when you redo your floors, and you’ll be thrilled with the new, fresh, clean look they provide.

Budget is always a big concern, and flooring companies know this. In recent years there has been a surge in laminate flooring choices because they compete in price with solid hardwood planks. Manufacturers know that many customers want the look of hardwood without the high price that goes with it.

Laminate is a flooring product that is constructed of a dense fiberboard with a high-resolution wood grain image on top to simulate genuine hardwood boards. This image is covered with a protective clear-coat layer that is durable enough to resist scratching and can stand up to discoloration from sunlight. Often this clear-coat layer is stronger and therefore better than most hardwoods and standing up to wear and tear.

Laminate flooring is constructed in layers. The bottom-most layer is called the ‘backing,’ and it is designed to resist moisture that could damage or warp the boards.

The next layer up is the ‘inner core.’ This layer is made from a high-density fiberboard material that is held together with a resin that is designed to resist any further moisture issues or damage.

On top of the ‘inner core’ is the image layer. This is where the high-resolution, digital image of wood, metal, stone, or other material adheres. Often, higher quality laminates will also add a texture layer here to enhance the look of real wood further.

Finally, the top layer, the ‘wear’ layer, is applied. This layer is a clear coat layer that protects the product from scratches, fading, and everyday wear.

Each one of these layers can be manufactured with varying degrees of quality. It’s important to know what you’re getting and to choose reputable manufacturers that use honest marketing.

It’s also best to know the manufacturer’s AC Rating to understand the best-intended use for the board you’re looking at buying. In general, the higher the AC Rating, the more durable the boards will be over time.

Once the boards are manufactured, they are cut into varying lengths, and one side is grooved, and the other is slotted. This allows the boards to click, or snap together forming what is a bit like a large “puzzle” that floats above the subfloor.

Certain brands even have matching trim pieces to complete your remodel and make your new floor come together beautifully.

Things to Consider

AC Rating – The AC rating measures the durability of the surface of the laminate flooring. AC ratings go from AC1 to AC5. Less expensive floors often have a lower AC rating such as AC1 or AC2. However, for general residential use, it is recommended to use at least an AC3 rated floor.

AC Rating Usage Best Usage AC1 Light Adult Bedrooms, Guest Rooms AC2 Moderate Living Rooms and Dining Rooms AC3 General Residential Kitchens and Small Offices AC4 Heavy Restaurants, Busy Offices, Hair Salons AC5 Commercial Department Stores, Grocery Stores, Public Buildings

Width – Flooring comes in a wide array of sizes and shapes depending on the style you choose. Wood-plank laminate, for example, generally ranges from 4 inches to 8 inches wide. Ceramic tile laminate usually ranges from 12 inches to 15 inches and can either be square or rectangular. Be careful when making your choice and be sure to consider the size and look of your room. Wide widths and larger squares can overwhelm a small room, so select a size that works with the design of your home.

Thickness – Thickness is important because the thicker the flooring, the more it will sound like a natural hardwood floor. A thinner floor will remit more sound versus absorbing the sound as thicker, real-wood floor would do. Thicker floors also tend to be more durable than a thinner floor.

Locking System – Be sure that the flooring you choose has a quality locking system. Without a good quality system, you could be in jeopardy of the floor losing its long-term hold, moisture resistance. It will also be more difficult to install the flooring, which can be quite tricky as it is.

Gloss – Decide if you like a high-gloss or low-gloss look before choosing your laminate. Both options give a very different look to a room. Try to pick the finish that fits your décor and taste the best. Either way, the gloss should have very little effect on the durability of the flooring. The only exception would be that a low-gloss finish many hide small scratches better than a high-gloss floor.

Durability – Many laminate flooring materials are manufactured in a range of performance levels. At the highest performance level, you will find commercial grade products that can stand up to heavy wear and tear. Lower level products will be cheaper and only able to handle light and residential use. Know the amount of traffic you expect on your floor and choose your product accordingly.

Underlayment – The underlayment is a layer of protective product that you install on your subfloor before installing the laminate flooring. The underlayment layer will provide further protection from moisture and will dampen sound. This layer can also help your laminate sound like solid wood when you walk on it.

Cost – Laminate flooring can cost anywhere from $0.99 up to $8.00 and even beyond for custom, high-end products. However, most laminate will cost from $1.99 to $4.99 a square foot depending on design and quality. The cost also depends on the thickness and quality of the image and texture. Trust your eyes when choosing to pick a laminate that looks and feels like the real thing.

Warranty – Rest assured that laminate is durable and long-lasting. It was purposely designed with those aspects in mind and as an affordable alternative to hard wood. Be sure to check manufacturers’ warranties and know what all they cover. Many brands have products that are warranted for decades. Armstrong, for example, has laminate warranties that range from 20 years to lifetime, depending on which product you install.

Advantages of Laminate Flooring

Since its invention in 1977 by Swedish company Perstorp, laminate flooring has steadily climbed its way to becoming one of the top flooring choices of many builders and homeowners. It has risen so much in popularity that the first laminate flooring brand, Pergo, has had its name become synonymous with the product itself.

Laminate flooring is designed to be more water resistant than traditional hardwood flooring yet is designed to have the look of a natural hardwood floor. It is easy to clean and can stand up to a variety of cleaning products that can’t be used on hardwood floors.

One of the main reasons that laminate is so sought-after is its price. Laminate flooring is a fantastically durable material at about half the cost of genuine hardwood. All of this, along with a large scope and variety of options to choose from have made it one of the top products on the market.

One of our favorite advantages of installing laminate flooring is how simple it is to install! In fact, the installation is so simple that it’s like snapping together a jigsaw puzzle. Cutting the pieces to fit your room will probably be the most challenging aspect of the installation. The fewer obstacles and angled cuts you have, the easier and faster the flooring will be to install.

However, it’s still a project that can be completed by your average DIYer in a weekend or two – depending on the size of your room.

How to Install Laminate Flooring

For the sake of this guide, we will discuss installation starting from the point where you have cleared your floor of any past flooring. (Be sure to read How to Remove Laminate Flooring in this guide to complete this step). You will also need to have checked it for level across at least a six-foot span, and cleared the surface of any residual nails, tack strips or glue. These preparatory steps are essential to success and cannot be missed.

Also, please note you should always buy a bit more flooring than you’ll ultimately need. You’ll want to be sure you have enough in case of a mistake such as a miscut. Buy 10% to 15% extra, and you should be fine. This will also give you a bit extra if you ever need to replace a board in the future.

Acclimate your flooring. Place your flooring in the room where you will install it and follow manufacturer’s instructions as to how long to wait. The generally accepted amount of time is two to four days. This will allow the laminate to settle into its new surroundings and take its permanent shape.

Determine your layout. Measure the room and determine its longest wall. Flooring is generally laid parallel to the main view of the room which is usually along the longest wall. By laying the flooring in this direction, the room will appear larger. After measuring, you will also be able to determine how many rows you will need to install and how wide the last row will be. No row should be less than 2 inches, so plan accordingly and cut down your first row a bit if you need your last row to be wider.

Prepare the door frames. Undercut your door frames and any location along the wall where you won’t be able to use shoe molding (the decorative trim used to cover any space between your base molding and the floor.) Undercut it enough so that your flooring can fit underneath and not leave any gap.

Install the underlayment. Lay out your underlayment being sure to cover the floor completely. This step is critical for reducing both sound and moisture once the flooring is installed. Be sure

to completely tape the seams and don’t leave any gaps.

Lay out your first piece. Lay the first row completely without installing it to check how big the last piece in the row will be. Generally, you want the first row to have at least a 12-inch piece at both the beginning and at the end of the row. Trim accordingly to make sure this happens.

Snap in your first row. Using a rocking motion, snap the tongue and groove of each end together by using firm, even pressure. Be sure everything is flush and flat, or problems will build up later during installation.

Line up your next row. Being sure to stagger your joints, lay out the next row and snap the long end into place first, followed by tapping the short end into place with the use of a rubber mallet. It’s best to tap the mallet against a spare piece of flooring that is butted against the piece you’re installing. This will protect it from any dings or nicks and will keep the tongue and groove intact.

Repeat installing rows. Continue following the same process you used in the last row and continue to install rows using a systematic and staggered pattern. Always lay out each row before snapping it into place to be sure you like the look and layout of each piece. Tighten each end piece by using a pull bar which allows you to strike away from the wall while still applying pressure to tighten the board. This will close any gaps you have in the row.

Beware of tricky spots. Tricky spots can include small spaces that jut out from the floor or spots where you’ll need to make special cuts to get the flooring to fit. One example would be under a door frame.

Finishing touches. Finally, you can reattach your baseboards if you removed them and install shoe molding if it’s needed. Finish by caulking and painting whatever is needed. Lastly, stand back and admire your work!

How to Clean Laminate Flooring

Preventative Maintenance

Laminate floors get their beautiful appearance from a high-resolution, photographic layer inside a layer of plastic. They may look a lot like wood, but because they aren’t, they can’t be refinished like wood.

Because of this, it will be well worth your time to keep them clean and free of damaging dirt and moisture. Be sure to keep floor rugs and mats in front of exterior doors, and runners in high-traffic areas such as along hallways.

Basic Cleaning

Each laminate flooring company will have its own best methods for cleaning, and it’s best first to read the manufacturers suggestions. However, if you don’t want to go the traditional cleaning route, try one of these methods.

Vinegar – mixing equal parts vinegar and water will give you the shiniest and cleanest laminate floors. Some companies, such as Pergo, say that vinegar is better used at a ratio of 1 cup of vinegar to 1 gallon of water. The mixture is not harmful, so play around and see what you feel is best.

DON’T use Murphy’s Oil or Pine Sol – using these products is a common mistake because many homeowners tend to treat their laminate like hardwood. It is best to clean laminate without using a moisturizing cleaner as this could leave streaks.

One product that is gentle but works well on laminate is baby shampoo. Baby shampoo can be an inexpensive option for cleaning laminate and is a great way to remove dirt, dust, and mud without hurting your floors. Just put two tablespoons of baby shampoo into one gallon of hot water and start mopping. Do not use adult shampoo which can leave residue on the floor.

Be sure to dry your laminate floor after mopping. Also, wring out any excess water from your mop. Both of these steps are important because excess moisture can damage your wood laminate floor. In fact, a sponge mop is usually best for this job because it doesn’t hold too much water.

Stain Removal

Although laminate floors do not stain easily, you may find yourself in a situation where something becomes hardened to the floor. First, try using a commercial cleaner that’s formulated for the stain/mark. If that doesn’t work then try the following:

Candle Wax – Let the wax harden before trying to remove it. Once it’s cool and hard remove it with the edge of a knife or other flat, hard surface.

Grease and Tar – Mineral spirits is great for removing thick, sticky stains.

Ink and Crayon – Use rubbing alcohol

Shoe Polish – Use rubbing alcohol

Chewing Gum – Freeze the gum by placing an ice cube or another frozen item on top of the wad. Scrape it off with a knife once it’s hardened.

Blood – Spray the dried blood with window cleaner then wipe if off with a damp cloth. Follow up with a dry cloth.

Nail Polish – Use rubbing alcohol

Heel Marks – Believe it or not, a pencil eraser works great for this!

How to Cut Laminate Flooring

Although it is rather simple to install laminate flooring, it can require some practice and skill to trim and cut the laminate planks to the correct length. First off we’ve listed a few of the tools that can help you get the job done easily.

Laminate Cutter

Although it is possible to use a saw to cut the laminate, the most efficient way is to use a laminate floor cutter. Laminate floor cutters chop through the wood using a strong blade and a long handle to exert a tremendous amount of downward force – resulting in no sawdust, and no electric blade saw noise!

They can cost as little as $50 (but don’t expect it to last through more than one job) and as much as $500+ for professional models. An average price model for a basic job would run in the area of $175 – $250.

If you aren’t interested in purchasing a laminate cutter, you always have the option of renting one. Your local home improvement store or rental center will likely have a laminate flooring cutter in their inventory. Expect to pay $15 – $25 a day which you can see is a very affordable option compared to buying one of your own.

Jigsaw

When making odd-shaped cuts to fit around pipes, poles, or other obstacles, you will need to use a jigsaw.

A jigsaw can also be used to cut boards to the proper width (which could be an angled cut since not all rooms are perfectly square) and it can also be used to cut lengths which mean you could use it instead of a laminate cutter if you only wanted to use one tool.

A jigsaw is also lighter than a circular saw, so it’s also a good option regarding weight.

Be sure to use the proper blade when using a jigsaw. Blade manufacturers offer blades specifically made for laminates. The proper jigsaw blade will cut on the downward stroke versus the upstroke like standard jigsaw blades. This will keep the face of your board intact without creating chips or breaks.

Contour Gauge

If you’ve ever installed any type of flooring before you’ve probably used a contour gauge, also known as a profile gauge. Profile gauges are used for cutting oddly shaped pieces, and they create an exact replica of the shape of cut you need to make. You will find this tool incredibly handy, and it will reduce loads of a headache when you’re trying to make perfectly accurate odd-shaped cuts.

Video of how to use a Contour Gauge https://youtu.be/rcTjyJJ-LwA

Square

Squares are a guide used by woodworkers, craftsmen, architects, and technical draftsmen to guide a straight line across a drawing or a piece of wood that needs to be cut. The basic steel square that carpenters use lays out a right angle along a piece of wood and ensures a straight cut. They are available as a T-square which is the most basic instrument used to create a right angle, or as a combination square that has multiple purposes in woodworking. The most common of which is laying out and marking right angles.

Image Credit: infinitytools.com

youtube

Cutting the Laminate for Length

Measure the length you will need by using a tape measure

Mark the board at the spot where you want to make the cut

At the spot where you marked your cut, use your square and pen to draw a straight line across the face of the board.

Use your cutting tool (hand saw, circular saw, jig saw) to make the cut slightly to the ‘waste-side’ of your mark and wipe off the remaining ink with a damp cloth.

Cutting the Laminate for Width

Cutting for width will be necessary for at least the last board that you install in the room as well as others if the room has obstacles. Always remember that you will need to allow room for expansion of the floor – a ¼ inch space will be sufficient to keep it from buckling during heat and humidity. This small gap can be hidden by your baseboard or shoe molding.

Lay a full piece of laminate on top of the board that you are connecting to and push it flush against the wall or obstacle. This will allow you to measure the amount of overlap that you will need to cut off.

Cut a guide piece out of a scrap piece of laminate that is as wide as the overlap plus ¼ inch to mark how much laminate you will need to remove.

With your first piece still against the wall, lay this piece of cut scrap on top of it to mark your cut.

Mark your board by using your guide and running you marking pen along the edge.

Cut your piece a bit to the ‘waste-side’ of your mark and wipe off the remaining ink with a damp cloth.

Cutting Around Pipes

Measure the width and length to the center of the pipe

Mark your laminate where you want the center of the pipe to be

Use a hole saw that is approximately ½ inch larger in diameter than your pipe diameter and cut a hole in the laminate for your pipe

Cut the laminate in half right through the center of the hole that you just cut so that the two pieces of the laminate can now fit around the pipe.

Slide the two pieces together around the pipe and glue together using glue that is suitable for laminate

Cutting Around Obstacles

Use your contour gauge to replicate the profile of the obstacle

Lay the contour gauge on top of the piece of laminate you want to cut and trace the profile onto it using a marking pen

Use a jigsaw to cut out the shape you marked – again, always cut on the ‘waste-side’ of the marked line

Lay the cut piece up against the obstacle and refine any cuts that need to be touched

How to Remove Laminate Flooring

Video on How to Remove Laminate Flooring

youtube

What are some of the reasons that you might want to remove your laminate floor? One reason is that you might just want to upgrade or replace your existing flooring. Another is that it might have gotten damaged or scratched and you need to replace it.

It is quite easy to remove a laminate floor since it is basically a floating floor that isn’t attached to the subfloor. In fact, laminate flooring comes apart as easily as it fits together: in a snap! Just remember that the edges of the board are fragile, but if you remove them carefully, you should be able to use the good boards again in another space.

Remove all trim pieces – Trim pieces can include transition pieces, shoe molding (also known as quarter round molding), baseboards and the like. It is much easier to remove flooring of any kind if you first remove the baseboards. Start near a door and work your way around from there – slowly prying the baseboard away from the wall. Continue this until it has all been removed. In some cases, you might first have to use a utility knife to score a bead of caulking or paint that’s along the top of the baseboard holding it tight to the wall.

Clean the base of the wall – Clear away any nails or debris that is left over from where the base board or other trim piece was attached to the wall. If nails are left behind, they can get in the way of pulling up and removing any of the floor boards.

Pry up your first board – Under the baseboards, you should find a small ¼ inch expansion space along the perimeter of the room that will accept your pry bar and allow you to start removing the floor boards. Carefully wedge the pry bar (or a chisel) between the board and the floor and slowly lever it up until it’s at a 45-degree angle. At this point, the board should be able to unsnap from the piece next to it.

Continue around the room – Work your way around the room, board by board, until you’ve removed the first row. Next, move on to the second row and repeat removing the boards one-by-one. If they are in good condition, save them for future use.

Remove the under layer – Under each laminate floor should be an under layer of thin foam or plastic that protects the floor from any moisture. It shouldn’t be attached to the floor, but if it was installed properly, its seams would have been taped for added moisture control. Roll up and dispose of this under layer as it’s usually not suitable to reuse.

Clean the floor – Clear away leftover dust, dirt, or debris to get the subfloor ready to receive its new flooring.

HELPFUL HINT: Mark the back of your trim pieces with a pencil telling you which wall you removed them from. That way, if you want to reuse them, you’ll know exactly where they go instead of having to guess where they go. Also, use this method to mark the floor boards if you are only taking out a section of the floor to replace a damaged piece. You’ll want your floor seams to line up properly the second time around too!

Dos and Don’ts

If you’ve installed flooring before, you’ve probably already learned these dos and don’ts by experiencing them yourself. However, it’s always good to refresh your memory and be sure you adhere to them all.

Do buy 5% – 10% more flooring that you think you will need to complete the job. This will allow you room to make mistakes, and you might even end up with a few spare boards for future repairs.

Do bring your laminate flooring inside for several days before you plan to install it. This will allow the boards to adjust for humidity and moisture. Laminate expands and contracts, so it will need time to acclimate to the levels in the house. If you skip this step, you could have flooring that pulls apart of buckles.

Do include a ¼” expansion gap around the perimeter of the room. Again, moisture and humidity can expand and contract your boards.

Do stagger the boards so that the seams do not line up. Not only will your floor be stronger, but it will be more aesthetically pleasing.

Don’t forget to mark your trim pieces as to where they belong on the wall if you plan to reuse them. This is a big time-saver versus trying to remember which wall you removed them from!

Don’t include the tongue in your measurements as it will disappear into the groove of the next or previous board when snapped in place. Start your measurement from the finished edge on top of the board.

Don’t forget to cut the tongue off the first row of boards you install in the room so that those boards can lay flush against the wall. The tongue will already be cut off on these board if you cut them down so that the last row in the room would not be too thin.

Conclusion

It’s exciting to be considering a home remodel yet it can be frustrating at the same time. There can be so many criteria and specifications that you’ve never heard of or even thought of before, and so many questions. What do all those abbreviations and codes mean? What factors are important and which aren’t? How do I make the best cuts? How do I prepare my subfloor?

Don’t worry about researching how to start or even about what tools you’ll need. We’ve researched all this and more so that you wouldn’t have to spend your considering what to do. We then compiled our findings into this one handy guide – the most complete guide on the internet. Look no further than right here for the most comprehensive guide to everything about laminate flooring.

The post Best Laminate Flooring appeared first on ReadPlease.

0 notes

rachelmorris305 · 7 years

Text

Kitchen Countertops, the Stylish Workhorse

These surfaces, from granite to quartz, deliver on both looks and performance, making them sought-after surface choices for today’s home chef

Caesarstone in Statuario Maximus in Meredith and Jason’s kitchen

After cabinets, kitchen countertops have the most style impact in the kitchen. There are plenty of options to choose from—stone, quartz, solid surfacing, wood, to identify the most popular—so you’ll want to take a few factors into consideration before pulling out your wallet.

*Where will it go? Will it be attractive if it’s visible from adjoining living areas as well as the cook space?

*How will you use it and how often? Can it stand up to common spills and daily impact with cooking tools?

*What other features will it connect to? Will it look good and stand up to adjoining elements, like a sink or a stovetop?

*How often do you clean? Besides the after-meal swipe with a sponge, are you up for taking the time for regular maintenance?

Happily, whatever your answers are to the questions above, there is a countertop for you. Today’s eclectic kitchen styles also welcome a mix of materials, so don’t worry about everything matching. You can have one material for the island and another for the countertop, or treat yourself to a small slab of marble for a bar space, for instance. The bottom line: The kitchen countertop should be a surface that you love to look at and can enjoy working on for years to come. For best results, always hire a professional certified to fabricate and install the particular material you choose. Not all kitchen countertops are made (or installed) the same. Here’s a rundown of the top choices:

Honed black granite in Kelly and Gregg’s kitchen

Granite Granite landed on the kitchen scene a little over two decades ago and remains popular. It’s a close second behind the number one choice, engineered stone, according to a survey from the National Kitchen and Bath Association. Why does granite endure? It combines unique beauty with durability and low maintenance. The natural grain means no two slabs will be identical. While very hard and impervious to heat, granite is porous, so it needs to be sealed at least annually—easy enough with hand application by sponge.

PROS • Resists high heat • Comes in a range of colors and grains • Every slab is unique • Maintains its value if well cared for, including sealing annually

CONS • Expensive, from $60 to $100 per foot, but popular colors come in lower • Shows wear from knives and spills like vinegar, citrus juice, and oils, so use a cutting board on top • Requires regular maintenance, which a DIY project with a sealant and a sponge can accomplish • Will crack if improperly installed or a heavy object makes impact Carrara marble in Lia and Chris’ kitchen

Marble Sought for its classic beauty and variety, marble still draws its fans among homeowners who want stone in the kitchen. However, it is more porous than granite, and this factor, combined with a high price tag—more than $100 per square foot, not including fabrication—limits its application to a few areas of the kitchen, like entertaining or baking areas. Remember that this particular material enjoyed pride-of-place in grand homes in the last two centuries, so if you are up for classic elegance that yields a timeworn patina, this could be the stone for you.

PROS • Withstands high heat • Adds a high-quality, luxury look suitable for traditional or contemporary kitchens • Stays cool, so good for rolling out dough • Pairs beautifully with many other surfaces, especially wood and metal

CONS • The most expensive of stones • Limited in color choices—whites, grays, blacks • Stains, scratches, cracks, and chips more easily than other stones • Requires monthly sealing and may still discolor Blue/green soapstone in Katharine and John’s kitchen

Soapstone Soapstone’s resistance to heat and water, along with a muted color palette marked by subtle veining, makes it an appealing alternative to granite and marble. It also comes with a slightly lower price tag, in the $70 to $100 per-square-foot range. Soapstone does require care, like all stones.

PROS • Resists heat and water • Color tends to be uniform throughout the slab • Suitable for sinks, too, if you want a blended look • Comes in at the lower price spectrum of natural stone CONS • Scratches easily and will show stains, which can be sanded out • May crack or chip if you aren’t careful when working on it • Requires regular sealing and will show stains if not wiped up immediately • Develops a patina over time, which you may or may not like

Sam and Sean’s renovation mixed two kitchen countertops, including Caesarstone in Frosty Carrina

Engineered stone Probably the toughest surface on the market, this material is typically 90 percent quartz mixed with pigments and polyester resin, then manufactured under pressure into highly dense slabs. Manufacturers such as Caesarstone offer a vast array of looks, including many faux granites as well as the whitest whites, blackest blacks, and some brilliant colors like red and blue. Claims that it won’t stain or fade or succumb to high heat make engineered stone the most popular choice for kitchen countertops, edging out granite, despite the fact that the cost starts around $100 per square foot, the same or higher than natural stone.

PROS • Most impervious of all surfaces; resists heat, stains, scratches, bacteria, fading • Huge selection of patterns and colors, including faux stones and custom colors • Can be manufactured into nearly any shape you want • Requires no sealing or special maintenance

CONS • Faux stone doesn’t appear to look like real stone • May crack on sudden impact with a heavy object • Costs as much as real stone • Solid-colored slabs will show seams Solid surfacing Twenty years ago, solid surfacing was the darling in the world of kitchen countertops. It still deserves consideration, as many qualities have been improved over time by brands like Corian. It is heat- and stain-resistant and comes in a range of looks, including faux stone, and lots of fashion colors. Because it has a little give, due to it being made of acrylic or polyester or a blend of the two, objects dropped on solid surfacing are less likely to break. It also can be molded into many shapes, including intricate inlays, edge and backsplash treatments, as well as furniture. Figure on spending around $80 to $100 per square foot, depending on the pattern and color.

PROS • Heat- moisture-, and fade-resistant • Enormous choice of colors and patterns, including custom • Seams fuse together so joints don’t show • Molds into just about any shape including integrated backsplash or sink • Does not require sealing; clean with mild detergent

CONS • Can’t take high heat; will lose shape • Vulnerable to scratches, cuts, and prolonged exposure to stains like wine or catsup; requires a cutting board • Faux stone looks don’t exactly resemble stone • Not recyclable Rich walnut wood in Amanda’s kitchen

Wood Probably America’s earliest countertop, wood is still desired for its natural beauty and warmth. Wood can take moderate heat, but it will show burns, dings, and knife cuts. Fans consider the patina part of the appeal. Most damage can be sanded out; be sure to reapply food-safe mineral oil after any repair. Avoid installation in areas like the sink with prolonged exposure to moisture, which will cause it to swell. Clean with a damp sponge and a mild detergent. Hardwoods such as maple and oak are most commonly used as kitchen countertops, in a butcher-block pattern, which provides additional strength. Wood is a thriftier choice than many of the surfaces described above, starting at about $35 per square foot and climbing upward.

PROS • Easy to clean and repair • Good for cutting and chopping; knives won’t dull with contact • Won’t chip and objects dropped on it are less likely to break • Provides a rich look for a price lower than many other kitchen surfaces

CONS • Vulnerable to moisture, chemicals, and high heat, which cause permanent damage • Immediately shows signs of use • Expands or contracts with extreme swings in moist environment • Requires food-safe sealant and regular care to preserve surface Dekton laminate in Dan and Mike’s kitchen

Laminate While not so rugged as most other surface options today, laminate still has plenty to recommend it, including loads of patterns and colors and a thrifty price tag starting at $10 to $20 per square foot. Made of resin-covered paper backed by plywood or particle board, laminate does come with its share of synthetics. To ensure your indoor air quality, look for laminates certified by Greenguard, like Wilsonart, which indicates they are made from low-emitting materials that use formaldehyde-free paper and low- or non-toxic glues. This fashion-friendly surface can mimic the look of stone, wood, or fabric, or any graphic the manufacturer can think of (remember the “Boomerang”?). It will last for a few decades with proper care, which includes no direct cutting on the surface or exposure to acid or chemicals.

PROS • Requires minimal care and no sealing • Comes in vast selection of patterns and colors • Easy to cut and install in tight spaces • Well-priced, particularly for a product with so many style options

CONS • Scratches and burns easily; sometimes impossible to repair • Seams show, particularly on solid colors • Allows only drop-in sinks, due to its construction • Anything other than the simplest edge treatment will drive up the price

Stainless steel For the same reason they’re used in commercial kitchens, stainless steel can take a beating, from knives, high heat, most spills, and it’s completely anti-bacterial. You must avoid caustic chemicals, but since it’s water- and stain-proof, that’s not an issue unless you use it for something other than food prep. It comes in a number of finishes, including polished and brushed, which helps hide scratches. Cost begins at the high-middle, about $70 per square foot. Dings and dents will show up and are impossible to remove without displacing the countertop. But if you want a pro-style countertop, those battle scars can be shown with pride.

PROS • Super-resilient material is water-, stain-, fade-proof and resists bacteria • No need for sealing; cleans with simple detergent and water • Integrates seamlessly with features like drainboards, sinks, and backsplashes • Manufactured to exact specifications, so potentially seamless

CONS • Not suitable for cutting; must use board to protect from knives • Shows the smallest scratches and dents, which are very hard to remove • Noisy when kitchen tools come in contact • Fabrication will drive up the price unless you buy a ready-made sink and drainboard unit

Depending on how you use your kitchen, there are a myriad of options for those who chronically order take-out or the avid home chef. Style and function combine for the level of care you choose to take on.

—

Kitchen countertops make up the bulk of your prep space—but it’s not just what’s on top that matters. Explore a variety of islands and peninsulas in Sweeten homes to make the most of your dual work space and storage.

Sweeten handpicks the best general contractors to match each project’s location, budget, and scope, helping until project completion. Follow the blog for renovation ideas and inspiration and when you’re ready to renovate, start your renovation on Sweeten.

A post from originally from Sweeten

0 notes

blushmilpitas · 7 years

Text

New Post has been published on Home Decor Trends

New Post has been published on http://www.uhozz.com/wooden-vegetable-garden-find-pleasure-gardening-right-height-without-breaking-back.html

Wooden Vegetable Garden To Find The Pleasure Of Gardening At The Right Height Without Breaking The Back

.adslot_1 width: 250px; height: 250px; @media (min-width:500px) .adslot_1 width: 300px; height: 250px; @media (min-width:800px) .adslot_1 width: 336px; height: 280px; (adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push();

Today, even with a small area, it is possible to grow vegetables without too much effort and taste. You have a small garden or only a balcony or terrace, but you want fresh vegetables? So, why not consider the culture above ground? Nothing is easier than creating a wooden kitchen garden to find the pleasure of gardening at the right height without breaking your back! The vegetable garden has many advantages. In the trade, you can buy kitchen gardens in assembly kits but, it turns out, creating yourself a wooden vegetable garden is an easy and enjoyable task even for amateurs. If you are looking for interesting ideas about this subject, Deavita will present some excellent ones!

Square wooden vegetable garden – what is it?

The wooden vegetable garden is a wooden container, usually a vat, a planter or a cultivation table, suitable for the above-ground cultivation of vegetables, herbs and flowers. Depending on the type of container, it can be divided into several squares to grow different varieties of vegetables. More aesthetic than the traditional kitchen square , the wooden kitchen garden is designed at a height of about 1 meter, which allows the gardener not to lean.

As for the design of a home made vegetable garden, it is a matter of taste. The height garden can be rectangular, square, round etc. Besides the shape and material, the goal of a DIY garden is also an essential point not to be neglected. Before embarking on a wooden kitchen garden, you have to ask yourself some questions about its role. Will it be part of the decorative elements of the garden (from the balcony)? Will it have a role that is simply practical, facilitating work and harvesting? In addition, we can think about the idea of creating a multifunctional wooden vegetable garden, which can act as a viewing window and redefine the garden in an original way.

As for the good wood species to choose, larch boards are ideal. This gasoline has a high resin content and impregnation is not required. On the other hand, any other wood must be treated with an impregnating oil.

As already mentioned, the height of a wooden kitchen garden depends on the size of the gardener. It is thus between 80 and 120 cm to allow to work easily without damaging its back. On the other hand, the length of the vegetable garden can vary according to personal wishes.

Some vegetables grow best according to the solar exposure of the garden. It would therefore be better to respect the north-south axis so that vegetables and aromatic herbs can enjoy sufficient sunshine. Moreover, experienced gardeners advise to use a mixture of potting compost and homemade compost to ensure a good development to the vegetables. Take into account that the wooden kitchen garden has the highest nutrient content directly after its development. This is the ideal time to plant vegetables such as tomatoes, cucumbers, leeks etc., which require a lot of nutrients.

Among the many benefits that a wooden floor garden has to offer, it is impossible not to mention its ability to relieve the back and offer better protection to vegetables against snails and mice. Above ground cultivation doubles the space. Creating a standing vegetable garden is a very practical solution, making it easy to move the container if necessary.

Passionate of DIY, it is easy to realize oneself his kitchen garden on foot in wood. Depending on the type chosen, wooden planks can be purchased or, alternatively, recovered wood from dismantled pallets. The DIY allows you to create a custom kitchen garden according to the space you have available. 50 × 100 cm is a good size that will offer you a nice surface without having to pour too much earth. The standard height is 80 cm but it can be adapted to the individual needs and size of the gardener.

In order to create its wooden kitchen garden, first of all, it is necessary to choose the bin which will be diverted in square raised vegetable garden. Essential criteria include the strength and durability of the tank, sufficient depth and fertility and water autonomy.

To create a standard wooden stand, usually the material to be prepared includes: battens and planks, geotextile film, wood screws and nails, assembly brackets, string, screw drill, jigsaw, worktop, vise , Hammer, meter and pencil. The raised vegetable garden is, as already mentioned, more comfortable because it allows to work without bending down. But, this type of vegetable garden requires regular watering in case of high heat.

Then, to make a standard wooden stand, one starts by cutting 8 boards that will form the outline of the square. Then, cut the 4 feet to the desired height. Now is the time to assemble the boards on the feet. A crossbar is cut and screwed at the center and bottom of the square. It is also necessary to cut boards from the bottom by providing a passage for the feet. Finally, all that remains is to screw the planks of the bottom perpendicular to the contour using the assembly brackets.

Raised vegetable garden square

If you dream of creating a wooden kitchen garden to create a garden or a balcony, obviously, you have to forget the generous productions of vegetables. Even so, to maintain your pocket garden square, to garden and to cultivate your own vegetables, will bring you a real pleasure. Radishes, tomatoes, salads, potatoes, aromatic herbs, etc. – they will be in place for the whole season!

Idea of vegetable garden to do yourself

The idea of having a wooden pedestal at the height of a man is ideal for all those who want to be able to garden without tiring or hurting their backs. The designs are declined to infinity according to the space available, the volume of land needed and the needs of the species. Thus, one can customize his raised vegetable garden by installing a greenhouse on it. No slugs, birds and cats – the plants are therefore perfectly protected from intrusions.

#fresh vegetables #garden furniture #kitchen garden #vegetable garden #wooden container #wooden vegetable garden

0 notes

almostperfectpeachstuff · 7 years

Text

New Post has been published on Home Decor Trends

New Post has been published on http://www.uhozz.com/wooden-vegetable-garden-find-pleasure-gardening-right-height-without-breaking-back.html

Wooden Vegetable Garden To Find The Pleasure Of Gardening At The Right Height Without Breaking The Back

Square wooden vegetable garden – what is it?

(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push();

Raised vegetable garden square

Idea of vegetable garden to do yourself

#fresh vegetables #garden furniture #kitchen garden #vegetable garden #wooden container #wooden vegetable garden

0 notes

myfuturehusbandwill · 7 years

Text

New Post has been published on Home Decor Trends

New Post has been published on http://www.uhozz.com/wooden-vegetable-garden-find-pleasure-gardening-right-height-without-breaking-back.html

Wooden Vegetable Garden To Find The Pleasure Of Gardening At The Right Height Without Breaking The Back

Square wooden vegetable garden – what is it?

(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push();

Raised vegetable garden square

Idea of vegetable garden to do yourself

#fresh vegetables #garden furniture #kitchen garden #vegetable garden #wooden container #wooden vegetable garden

0 notes

irezine · 7 years

Text

New Post has been published on Home Decor Trends

New Post has been published on http://www.uhozz.com/wooden-vegetable-garden-find-pleasure-gardening-right-height-without-breaking-back.html

Wooden Vegetable Garden To Find The Pleasure Of Gardening At The Right Height Without Breaking The Back

Square wooden vegetable garden – what is it?

(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push();

Raised vegetable garden square

Idea of vegetable garden to do yourself

#fresh vegetables #garden furniture #kitchen garden #vegetable garden #wooden container #wooden vegetable garden

0 notes

endlessarchite · 6 years

Text

Mini Garden Deck | Scrap Deck Boards Made Useful

This “mini garden deck” made from scrap deck boards has already made a huge difference in keeping my feet dry around the new vegetable garden.

My new vegetable garden bed has been a learning process. One part of that has been realizing that this area is going to get a lot of upkeep-related foot traffic.

Recommended Tools and Materials

may contain affiliate links

scrap pressure-treated deck boards

stair balusters (other strips of scrap wood is fine, I just used what I had available)

miter saw

drill

speed square

pencil

exterior screws

plastic spacers (optional – see below)

landscaping fabric

The deck boards I used are designated for Ground Contact, which is recommended for wood projects that sit within six inches of the ground. You can find more about that here.

How to make a mini garden deck from scrap wood

Start in the middle

I began where I thought would be the middle (ish) of the L-shaped area, and cut my deck board at 45-degree angles on both ends.

From this, I cut more pieces to help form a triangle shape until the space was filled. I dry fit each board into place and then began fastening them to the strips underneath.

Spacing

Screw together and fan out

If you were to look at the back, it would look like a hot mess — the stringers (the stair balusters) that attach to the deck boards are practically random in their placement.

And boom: no more muddy feet when maintaining the garden. It actually kind of finishes the area nicely, too.

Check out these other awesome Scrap Wood projects:

The House of Wood – DIY Bunk Buddy

3×3 Custom – Scrap Wood Trivets

Ugly Duckling House – Mini Garden Deck — that’s HERE! —

The Created Home – Animal Coin Banks

Her Toolbelt – 3D Pixel Art

The Kim Six Fix – Outdoor Drink Stakes

DIY Huntress – Scrap Wood Coasters

Mr. Build It & Mrs. Style It – Bent Plywood Headphone Stand

At Charlotte’s House – Buffalo Check Tray

Sawdust 2 Stitches – Scrap Wood Wall Decor

Bower Power – Pallet Baseball Hat Rack

Pneumatic Addict – Table with Epoxy Resin

Anika’s DIY Life – DIY Spice Rack

100 Things 2 Do – DIY Can Crusher

Hazel + Gold Designs – Patio Table Drink Holder

Reality Daydream – Scrap Wood Shoe Cabinet

House Becoming Home – Modern DIY Clock

Chatfield Court – Wooden Garden Obelisk

The post Mini Garden Deck | Scrap Deck Boards Made Useful appeared first on Ugly Duckling House.

More Where That Came From

How to Build a Concrete Form for an Outdoor Pad

The Gardenia Garden Beds Are Thriving!

Growing Seedlings for My First Veggie Garden

DIY Floating Deck, Part 1: Planning and Layout

0 notes

bebeautyps · 7 years

Text

New Post has been published on Home Decor Trends

New Post has been published on http://www.uhozz.com/wooden-vegetable-garden-find-pleasure-gardening-right-height-without-breaking-back.html

Wooden Vegetable Garden To Find The Pleasure Of Gardening At The Right Height Without Breaking The Back

Square wooden vegetable garden – what is it?

(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push();

Raised vegetable garden square

Idea of vegetable garden to do yourself

#fresh vegetables #garden furniture #kitchen garden #vegetable garden #wooden container #wooden vegetable garden

0 notes