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#surf paradise

Who decided they wanted to get an itty bitty plank of wood and make a long board and then add little triangles underneath, THEN look at the huge span of water with big water mountains crashing over you, and say, i’m gonna take my little board with triangles and stand on it ontop of the water mountains, like uh okay

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16 year old Corky Carroll, Pipeline . . 1964

Photo: Grannis

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