#valve plug-ish

[wndaswife]

So with giving a small update on how things have been. I feel like it's worth mentioning this since I had absolutely no clue that this could like..actually happen? Plus just wanna talk about it so no one else makes the same mistake I did. So back in my old place I had a memory foam mattress that I decided to bring to the new place without the box-spring. So just literally mattress directly on floor cause I didn't mind not having a box-spring and my dad was like, "Oh that should be fine to do. It's just a mattress."

Fast forward a week and when I'm fixing the sheet on said mattress, my hand accidentally slipped beneath the bottom of it and it was ice cold..and damp?? 😭

So unknown to me or my parents, we learned that day that a memory foam mattress isn't normal compared to other mattresses and need a breathable surface, like a box-spring underneath it or else it generates condensation via body heat. Because this new house has wood floors that can absolutely not handle water, we scrambled to get this resolved quickly before the floor could start rotting from water damage.

Anyways now I have an air mattress which is a bit strange but still comfortable for a replacement until I can afford something better. Though omg the first few days with the air mattress it immediately started leaking air rapidly which it isn't supposed to do. So not only did I get frustrated from waking up in a floppy air mattress but I was also suffering through my period.

Before we found the issue to fix it though, I remember really needing to take a nap cause I wasn't sleeping well at all. Was maybe asleep for 30-ish minutes before I woke up to an already floppy deflating air mattress. I just remember the way my lower back and tailbone was just digging painfully into the cold floor below and not ashamed to admit I broke down crying.

I'm glad that the air mattress was fixed, cause apparantly it was the valve that was just sticking out to let the air escape. So once it was pressed in correctly I stopped having issues.

With a happier news update though, I've recently started scrapbooking with the help of my mom teaching me new things and she sneakily gifted me a tarot card deck. OH! Also started bird and squirrel feeding as of now since the back-deck gives us the opportunity to do so. I get so distracted in the morning/afternoons just watching so many fly and peck around.

- 🦐

ewwwww what the

that happens????? wow reading that now i guess it does make sense but i would’ve never guessed. did you get the box spring tho

😭😭😭😭😭😭 the way all you had to do was check the valve of the air mattress

i rly know how u feel i get super easily overwhelmed and i am also a very sensitive person so frustrated crying is literally the worst

i remember when i was studying for exams there was a buzzing noise from something plugged into the outlet i hadn’t found yet and then my chair broke and then i didn’t have 2/3 of my pillows because i forgot it in my mom’s car and my friend really said “is this actually worth freaking out about”

literally the worst possible thing she could’ve said to me

so i totally totally understand im the same way

ahhhhh scrapbooking i’ve always wanted to do that and decorate the pages with stickers and cute tape and stuff!!! that’s awesome :D hehehe that’s so cute with the birds

awww it seems like ur all really settling into your new place nicely that makes me rly happy to hear <33

#rae responds #🦐 anon

[huntersgreys]

Soundhack spectral gate

#Soundhack spectral gate free

Time stretch x100, overlap factor 0.5 output Original sample used as input for all examples Time Stretching Output Example gopvoc can analyze up to 8192 FFT bands.Before writing to disk, gopvoc clips any samples to the max or min allowed value for the given bit depth. gopvoc handles output clipping differently than SoundHack.gopvoc does not allow a scaling function, it only accepts a single value for scale factor.gopvoc time stretching can only take a multiplier scale factor for time instead of a target output duration.gopvoc pitch shifting can only take a multiplier scale factor for pitch (octave lower is scale factor of 0.5, octave higher is 2.0, etc).gopvoc can only read and write AIFF and WAV files.gopvoc can process AIFF/WAV files with an arbitrary number of channels.gopvoc uses a slightly different vonn Hann window function than SoundHack.The way the "best" interpolation and decimation rates are determined is slightly different than the original SoundHack. gopvoc doesn't allow time stretching beyond the maximum or minimum as determined by the given inputs, see below.Unlike the original SoundHack, this port does not have a UI and must be used on the command line. Multichannel audio exchange between users via internetĮmulation of vinyl wear and tear, crackle etc.This is a Go port of the phase vocoding analysis/resynthesis routines from Tom Erbe's program "SoundHack". Vintage style delay phaser, flanger, saturation TAL-Dub TAL-Dub II, TAL-Phaser TAL-Flanger TAL-Tube Slicer- autobreaks, autogLitch or whatever Stereo width control with phase inversion +phasescope - shows L-R phase relationship +matrix - mid-side to left-right encoder and decoder +decimate - bit depth and sample rate reduction +pitchdelay - same, settings oriented to pitch shifting Gain - large, fixed volume steps which don't introduce quantization noise Rider - automatically rides the gain to keep the apparent volume level consistent Overflow - digital bit-overflow distortion Plugs included with (and requiring) this freeware applicationĬonvolution reverb graphic equaliser multiband scraper (bit size reduction) simple reverb multiband freeverb MIDI filter 5 band EQ 20 band EQ Width Enhancer Limiter Compressor gate valve warmer swamp buffer funky repeater DC blocker Hum remover Buff Rice.īad Cable - harsh distortion simulating a bad cable MIDI bridge, organizer & wrapper for different drum sampler formatsĮxperimental multitap delay with panning and controllable morphingĭiatonic Shifter, Octave Shifter, Reverse SamplerĬombo, Degrade, Detune, DubDelay, Dynamics, Re-Psycho!, RoundPan, Shepard, Talkbox, TestTone, Tracker. Pingpong delay, phaser, multitap delay, buffer delay, latency fixer, merger. RMS Buddy, Buffer Override, transverb, freeverb, Geometer, Scrubby, Skidder, Polarizer, MIDI Gater, EQ Sync, monomaker. Vibrato : can do two frequencies at once, and ring modulationĦ4-bit bitscope and intersample clip indicator Slew : just the slew section of "channel" SampleDelay : the only sample delay with negative delay Pressure : Compressor (an early vari-mu compressor design) Rompler with limited sound banks - synth, organ, FXĪcousticBass : convolution mode of acoustic bassĬabAlnico10 : Airwindows alnico 10" speaker cab modelingĬabPrinceton : Airwindows Fender Princeton cab modelingĬhannelEQ : 4-band fixed-frequency EQ which passes bit-identical output when flat Sonic Birth collection : plugs included with freeware applicationįlying Monkey Synth Bassdrum (synth) Rainy Synth Synthesiser - 6 bit console game sound-ish "Demo" drum kit with four multisampled drums, no time limit. Please make additions and corrections below. * For this list, 'free' means free, donationware, magware and 'unlimited' demos (no beeps or timeouts) I know some of these have already been listed but many have not- enjoy

#Soundhack spectral gate free

I read in many discussions about new DP5 VI's that many people have a lot of VI's and free plugs.ĭoes anyone want to drop here his list of preferred free stuff?Ĭan we try to build a free stuff tipsheet?

#Soundhack spectral gate

[auntabysmal]

ITS NOT FAIRRRRRRRRR I JUST WANT TO STICK MY TONGUE DOWN RUNG’S THROAT!!!!! *PTERODACTYL SCREAMS*

#valve plug ish???? #transformers #transformers mtmte #mtmte #lost light #mtmte rung #lost light rung #tf rung #holoform rung #humanformers rung #rung

[udunie]

Yussss extreme food control! Stiles presents late as an omega and is considered too big by most standards (omegas have, u kno, alternate food sources) so in desperation to get his omega son bonded the sheriff puts Stiles on an experimental lifestyle/diet: as much piss&cum as Stiles wants to drink, paired with a tightlace corset, a special cock cage/sound that only lets him piss when his bladder passes a certain pressure, a fat plug that has a special enema in/out valve set 1/2

diet!Stiles: and a chastity belt that locks the corset/cock cage/plug together and in place. It doesn't have to come off - so long as Stiles is meticulous when cleaning the exterior parts, the enema-plug is self-cleaning and the sound is basically a specialized catheter. It does unfortunately take Stiles a long time to get down to an acceptable omega form, and his dad swaps out the cage for smaller ones several times hoping *this* gets Stiles an alpha. Stiles, of course, never comes 2/3 moar sry

diet!Stiles: but the relief Stiles gets when his bladder finally fills enough for the sound to open- for as little as it takes for the pressure to drop- is so intense it starts to replace coming in his mind. He starts to drink as much piss as he can just to reach that point more often, to the point his dad gets fed up and tells him if he's going to indulge so much in piss he's going to have to start drinking his own as well because this is supposed to be a DIET. Stiles loves drinking himself dry

Oh maaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaan I adore all of this *___________*

Also, if I may add, cause it just logical... Since Stiles does not control his bladder, (and enemas can be tricky if water reach inside deep enough) he needs to wear a diaper? I feel like that would be a nice finish to his looks :D 

Just like, imagine him having to wear a diaper with a cute rubber panty on it to make sure he doesn’t leak, with a tightlaced corset, and of course he needs to wear those little nipple pumps to get him more omega-like. And you can’t put a shirt on a nipple pump, and none of his pants fit over his diaper, so when John needs to take him somewhere, that’s how he it is :D 

Alternatively:

Stiles presents at 14/15-ish (not between 10-12 as most do) and by then he started puberty... Late presentation is not very rare, so there are facilities that promise to mold late bloomers into proper omegas with SCIENCE!

Stiles needs to stay for a few months, and undergoes hard training. They get him on a special diet (maybe some tasteless slop - a cup twice a day), get him into tight lacing (maybe even remove his lowest ribs), give him multiple painful injections to help devolve his cock and develop his chest (into his balls, the head of his cock, his nipples etc), and they need to work a lot on his ass, cause ‘normal’ omegas are self lubricating, and he is not - yet. So he gets his rim pumped daily and injected with chemicals, gets painful enemas that help him change... 

Just all the medfet until he is unrecognizable :D

#prompt box #Anonymous

[salon-sissy-de-leonis-blog]

How to Paint the Exterior of Your Home - Step Three

This is the time to color the surface of your house. It's best to begin painting on the sunlit side of your house first and the reason behind that is basically because it's likely there continues to be dew on the shaded part of your house each day. Tip: Your home must be flawlessly dry to be able to begin painting.

Before you begin painting, it may be beneficial to monitor the elements for rain or snow. You do not want to begin painting and then stop abruptly because of the elements.

Related advice: Painting companies in Warner Robins

How warm is there to maintain order to color your home? For some paints, it typically needs to be 37 levels or warmer to be able to paint the surface of your property. Now if you are painting two jackets of color on your home which is 55 levels or much cooler for your day, it may be beneficial to color the first coating 1 day and apply the next coat your day after. If you reside in a really dry climate, like Denver, as well as your painting in the summertime months, you can defiantly apply two jackets in a single day. However, the greater humid climates in the south, it continues to be suggested to color only 1 layer each day.

Note: How exactly to use an airless color sprayer. I'm sure the man at the local rental store demonstrated you how to use the airless (typically along with his limited connection with actually painting a residence), so ideally I can provide you a few new ideas about how to color your home using an airless color sprayer. When you initially get the airless home, set it in the middle of the area that you would like to begin painting. Typically the amount of the line is just about 50'. Loosen up the line prior to painting so you need not be concerned about unraveling it when you are painting on the ladder. It really is smart to have a 100' expansion cord to be able to bring the airless anywhere you intend to color without any limitations. Suggestion: before you plug in the airless into the expansion cord, MAKE CERTAIN THE AIRLESS IS OFF! You do not want the airless to begin pumping without color! Now, when you attend setup the airless before you transform it on, it's a good guideline to truly have a second vacant bucket next to your bucket of color. I'll clarify why in another. Place both buckets hand and hand and place the intake line (with the cable mesh filtration system end) into the 5-gallon bucket of color as the primer line (usually a great deal smaller, about how big is a pencil' ish) is positioned in the bare bucket of color. Before you start the machine ensure that the airless is defined to prime the device first. There's a primer valve that you can rotate between primary and color. A sensible way to find out if the valve is defined to perfect or color is to try out this little test prior to turning the device on. While turning the valve clockwise a few times you will observe that the valve deal with will individual from the device in a single position (departing a slight split between your valve and machine) as the other position the valve is near to the machine. The positioning where the valve is separated from the device is definitely the primer position. Do that multiple times to see what I'm discussing. Don't get worried if you retain on content spinning the valve, you can spin it a million times in a single direction and it will not hurt it.

Once you find out which position is prime and which position is aerosol, place the valve in the prime position and get the primer line. Point the primer line in the clear bucket close to the top with an approx.45-degree angle from the medial side (the explanation for this is that there surely is apt to be pressure still developed in the airless so when you first activate the airless to prime it, the color will probably burst from the primer hose and you do not want it to go everywhere). Now change the airless color sprayer on and you'll see that the airless is sucking in the new color and pumping out the primer line. Initially, you will typically visit a cleaning solution turn out accompanied by your color. When you see your color coming out change on the primer valve to the other position and you'll start to see the airless pumping color into the primary hose.

Given that you have primed the airless, ensure that there isn't any suggestion in the weapon of the airless and take it to the unfilled bucket. Since there is normally a cleaning solution in the line resulting in the weapon it may be beneficial to squirt that out until you observe thick paint developing. Once you've solid color developing you might put your suggestion back. Keep in mind that the end will come with an arrow using one aspect of the deal with that presents which path it must maintain, to be able to spray.

When spraying your home, it is an excellent guideline to spray in direction of the grain of the materials. If you have siding that operates horizontal, you want to aerosol in a horizontal style. Also, when you attend spray, the weapon should be around 12" from the materials that you will be spraying. Usually, do not draw the deal with to squirt with your hands still. This will spray a lot of paint in one spot leading to it to drip. So have your hands moving when you attend depress the deal with. This will provide you with an even turn to your color.

Suggestion: you can show when the bucket of color gets low when the airless begins pumping really loud and doesn't stop. Simply tip the almost empty bucket of paint, at a position so the mesh filtration system is protected and await the airless to capture up and stop pumping. Sometimes it's just simpler to merely replace the bucket of color with the new one so when that begins going down, put the surplus from the old bucket into the new one.

Given that you have the airless color sprayer as well as your expansion ladders it is time to color your home. I'd recommend painting the siding of your house first before painting the cut. For the reason that is and that means you can just apply the house as fast as you possibly can without fretting about painting a portion of cut that you already colored. So color the siding and soffit first accompanied by painting the cut. Painting the siding using an airless color sprayer is going pretty fast.

Following the siding of your house is painted now you can start painting the trim. There are always a couple various ways you can start painting the cut of your property. The first way is to face mask off all the cut to enable you to merely aerosol the cut color to your home, and the next way is to move the cut by hand. If you're the only person painting the home I would suggest moving the cut yourself. For the reason that is really because it takes quite a while to cover up off every one of the cut on your home in comparison to just moving the facial skin of the cut boards. When you have multiple people, it might be faster to really have the helpers face mask everything off when you start spraying the cut color.

Airless Suggestion: When you have somebody who can begin masking from the trim, keep these things start that when you convert the airless to a fresh color. When changing colors with an airless color sprayer it may be beneficial to truly have a second bucket packed fifty percent way with clean drinking water. Place the consumption line in the clean drinking water softly without getting the old color all around the drinking water. Take the end from the airless and squirt all the old color from the line and back to its original color bucket. Be cautious when carrying this out that you recognize when the color begins turning watery. When it can point the weapon into the first bucket and aerosol until it appears fairly clean. Keep in mind that you have to be properly clean. When it appears good, clean from the consumption collection in the clean bucket and get the old color from the consumption line. Now place the consumption range of one's new cut color.

[dr-archeville]

Adulting: Car Ownership Edition

Advice from my mother, from when I got my first car.

Weekly-ish:

When the gas tank gets half full, fill it up. (In this economy?)

While filling it up, glance at the tires.  If they look low, have air put in.

Every 3,000 miles:

get oil & oil filter changed

get all hoses & belts checked

get air filter checked

get all fluids checked

have tire pressure checked

fall & winter: have antifreeze levels checked

Every 5,000 miles:

get tires rotated

Yearly:

get an engine tune-up (visually inspect engine’s fuel system components to make sure there are no clogs in filters/fuel pump/fuel injectors, visually inspect spark plugs, check/adjust engine timing, check engine’s PCV [positive crankcase ventilation] valve, check engine & cabin air filters, check oil & coolant levels)

Other:

Always pay car insurance on time; failure to do so can result in your license plate being revoked, and it’s illegal to drive in that condition

Keep registration & proof of insurance someplace easily accessible (like glove compartment)

Any other additions are welcome.

#adulting #cars #vehicles #car ownership

[mobilemechanicmelbournepros]

Car Engine Overheating? What to Do & Not Do

Written by World Class Auto Service and published on https://worldclassautoservice.com/.

If your car is overheating, it can be very serious. You shouldn’t continue to drive if you see the temperature gauge has moved towards the “hot” side. Your car may not immediately explode or anything like that, but driving with an overheating engine can cause serious damage to your vehicle. It’s better to pull over and deal with it right away instead of risking very expensive repairs later.

There are a number of things that can cause your engine to overheat. Some of these are fairly common issues, especially on a hot summer day.

Common Causes of Overheating and What to Do About It

It’s the beginning of summer and you’re stuck in traffic when all of a sudden your temperature gauge is on the BIG RED “H”. Guess what? Your vehicle is overheating* and you need to do something about it RIGHT NOW.

Before we get into the causes of vehicle overheating, let’s help minimize the potential damage to your car NOW until you can get it into a shop:

1- Turn off the AC immediately

2- Turn on your defroster and your heat to HOT, fan on High.

3- No, seriously. We know it’s Summer and you’re going to be uncomfortable until you can get your car off the road, but we’re talking thousands of dollars in damage if your car continues to overheat! Roll down the windows too, it’s gonna be hotter inside your car than outside here in a minute. The heater will pull as much heat out of your engine that it can, which just might be enough to avoid ruining it.

4- If you’re stopped in traffic, put your car in Neutral or Park and raise the engine speed. You’re trying to get the coolant circulating as much as possible. Raise the engine speed by pressing the gas pedal just enough to get the RPM gauge to the 2-ish mark(2000 RPMs). It doesn’t have to be exact, but you don’t want to rev your engine a lot past that or you’ll risk even worse problems.

5- If you’re moving, albeit slowly, but the car into the lowest gear that will maintain between 2 and 3 on the RPM gauge as you are headed to a good spot to pull over. If you start going too fast for that gear shift into the next higher one to maintain the 2-3000 RPM range.

6- Get off the road ASAP and use your AAA card (you do have one, right? You can learn more about getting one here.) to call for a tow.

Doing these things should help get that temperature gauge headed back down from the “H” mark, at least temporarily. If nothing happens to lower the temperature in about 2 minutes, SHUT THE CAR OFF right away. It’s up to you to decide if it’s safe enough to be sitting where your car stops, but we’ve seen lots and lots of ruined engines because people decided to drive “just a little farther” with an overheating vehicle.

Still with us? Now we’re going to tell you the likely reasons WHY your car just overheated and what to do to prevent it from happening in the first place.

If your vehicle is overheating, your engine is screaming for attention and your cooling system needs help. A vehicle can overheat at any point where the cooling system no longer is effectively absorbing, transporting and dissipating the heat created from your engine burning fuel.

Here are some of the most common reasons a vehicle’s cooling system begins to fail:

1. Leaks in the Cooling System

Leaks are the #1 reason a vehicle begins to overheat. Leaks in hoses, the radiator, water pump, thermostat housing, heater core, head gasket, freeze plugs and a few other things can all lead to problems with the vehicle’s cooling system. If you suspect a leak, or have had to add coolant to the reservoir don’t wait to get it checked. A small leak can quickly turn in to an expensive repair and a serious headache.

2. Coolant Concentration

You always want to use the correct type of coolant in your vehicle. The wrong coolant or the wrong mixture of coolant and distilled water can cause your vehicle to overheat. If you’re worried about your coolant concentration and haven’t kept up on regularly-scheduled vehicle maintenance, a complete cooling system flush is in order. Coolant actually becomes corrosive over time, accelerating the wear on the cooling system!

3. Bad Thermostat

Your thermostat is a key valve in the cooling system that ensures the coolant is able to pass through to the radiator when necessary. When the thermostat gets stuck in the closed position, the coolant can no longer pass through and becomes overheated in the engine. At any sign of your vehicle overheating, it’s a good idea to get the vehicle checked immediately so any possible simple repairs don’t become big problems.

4. Bad Radiator

Leaks and clogging can lead to your radiator failing and any disruption in the radiator’s function can lead to overheating since it can’t pull the heat away from the rest of the cooling system.

5. Worn Out or Burst Hoses

Hoses with cracks or even holes will leave you with a leaky engine and will disrupt the coolant’s flow. Your water pump can’t circulate coolant that’s not there due to it having leaked out from one of the hoses!

6. Bad Radiator Fan

Your radiator fan pulls air across the radiator to help reduce the coolant’s temperature but a worn fan clutch or broken fan motor can’t help to reduce the temperature and will lead to overheating.

7. Loose or Broken Belts

If a belt is loose or broken, specifically the water pump belt, it cannot help maintain the correct volume of coolant flow and can lead to overheating.

8. Bad Water Pump

Your water pump is the heart of your cooling system and if it’s not operating correctly, your vehicle lacks enough pressure to propel engine coolant throughout the cooling system. Any problems with the pump from erosion, leaks or anything else can cause your vehicle to overheat.

An overheating vehicle is a sign that needs immediate attention. In most cases, the original cause is a simple, low-cost repair. Unfortunately, most people ignore the initial problem and end up paying much more for extensive damage as a result.

If your vehicle is showing signs of overheating, be sure to give us a call today and we’ll be happy to test and assess the vehicle, provide the proper service and repairs and get you back on the road as quickly as possible.

*Yes, your car IS overheating, even though you don’t see clouds of steam and vapor pouring out from under the hood. That might happen if a coolant hose bursts, but it’s far more common for an engine to overheat without any outward signs

Original post here https://ift.tt/2xmDc7U.

[mobileautotruckrepairalbuquerque]

Mobile Engine Replacement Services and Cost in Albuquerque NM| Mobile Auto Truck Repair Albuquerque [phone]

More Information Is At: http://mobileautotruckrepairalbuquerque.com/engine-replacement/

 Youtube Link: https://youtu.be/j5NA6OdsOy4

 Facebook Link: https://www.facebook.com/MobileAutoTruckRepairAlbuquerque/videos/1498903510257006/

  Looking for Engine Replacement Services near Albuquerque NM? From routine auto maintenance to major engine replacement service or engine repair, the expert technicians at Mobile Auto Truck Repair Albuquerque know your specific vehicle and engine better than anyone. Cost of Engine Replacement Services? Free estimates! Call today for pricing or send us an email. Best Engine Replacement Services, mobile mechanic, mobile auto truck repair and roadside assistance services near Albuquerque NM! Open 24 hours 7 days!

   REQUEST A QUOTE TODAY. CONTACT US!

  ENGINE REPLACEMENT SERVICES ALBUQUERQUE NM

 Heavy Duty Services: Engine Overhaul & Replacement at Mobile Auto Truck Repair Albuquerque

 For the big jobs, take your vehicle to Mobile Auto Truck Repair Albuquerque ! Our expert services are ideal whether you have a late model import or newer domestic vehicle. And because we guarantee the work we perform, you can rest assured you are receiving the highest quality engine overhaul and replacement services in the  Albuquerque NM area.  Our heavy-duty services include:

 DIESEL

Although diesel engines don't require tune-ups and tend to last longer than gasoline engines, they do require regular maintenance. Typical maintenance tasks include:

·         Changing the oil & filter

·         Changing the air filter

·         Changing the fuel filter

·         Bleeding the fuel system

·         Draining the water separators

·         Refilling the urea injection system

You can count on the experts at Mobile Auto Truck Repair Albuquerque to help your diesel engine last a long time.

 ENGINE MAINTENANCE

Any car part manufacturer will tell you that preventive maintenance is critical to the part's lifespan. Like other auto parts, car engines aren't built to last forever. However, you can increase the engine's lifespan by performing regular preventive maintenance. The easiest way to maintain peak performance and fuel economy is to provide regular engine maintenance for your vehicle. To have your engine maintained by experts, visit Mobile Auto Truck Repair Albuquerque .

 ENGINE REPLACEMENT

The engine converts energy into useful mechanical motion. This amazing machine is what keeps your vehicle moving. Although generally reliable, a car engine is susceptible to damage and breakdown. When this happens, do not sit and stress over it. Take action. Take the vehicle to a mechanic for an engine replacement. Bring it to Mobile Auto Truck Repair Albuquerque . Visit us for quality engine replacement services.

 CYLINDER HEAD

A cylinder head is the closed end of a cylinder (located in a car's engine block). It sits above the cylinder block, closing the top of the cylinder and forming the combustion chamber. The cylinder head coordinates airflow in and out of the engine. Since the cylinder head's chief function is to seal the cylinders properly, insufficient compression results in the car being difficult to drive. To have your cylinder head checked and repaired, talk to Mobile Auto Truck Repair Albuquerque cylinder head repair and reconditioning specialists today.

 TIMING BELT

A timing belt is a part of your car's internal combustion engine. The belt synchronizes the camshaft and the crankshaft rotation so that the engine valves open and close at the correct timings. Also, the belt prevents the piston from striking the valves in an interference engine. A timing Belt is a rubber belt that usually features teeth on the inside service, while a timing chain is a metal roller chain. Most cars we drive now have timing belts instead of timing chains and gears. Although different manufacturers have their recommended mileage, you need to have your car's timing belt checked regularly. To have it checked by experts, contact Mobile Auto Truck Repair Albuquerque today.

Cylinder Block

A cylinder block is the powerhouse for the motor vehicle. The solid cast car part houses the cylinders and their components (gaskets, valves, and seals) inside a lubricated and cooled crankcase. Since it is one of the most important parts of your car, the block is designed to be extremely strong and sturdy. Although strong and sturdy, the block is susceptible to failure resulting in a vehicle that won't start. Cracked blocks, porous blocks, core plug, or freeze plug failure are some of the problems facing cylinder blocks. Call to talk to the Mechanics of Mobile Auto Truck Repair Albuquerque about your cylinder block problems.

 HOW MUCH IS LABOR TO REPLACE AN ENGINE?

 On average, you can expect to spend as little as $600 in labor for a drop-in replacement of a complete engine by your corner garage, to more than $ 2000 if you pay a specialist to disassemble your old engine, assemble your new engine from the short-block, and then install it.

 HOW MUCH DOES IT COST TO REPAIR AN ENGINE?

 If you blow a head gasket in your car engine, you should be prepared to pay some very costly repair bills. Prices will vary, but be ready to shell out between $900 and $1500 to replace blown head gaskets with remanufactured heads. New ones will cost you a lot more.

 HOW MUCH DOES IT COST TO GET A NEW ENGINE?

 Repowering a typical car or truck with a rebuilt – remanufactured engine costs between $2,000 to $4,000 or about 10% to 20% of the cost of a new vehicle. Additional savings in annual insurance costs can also be significant compared to purchasing a new vehicle.

 HOW MUCH DOES IT COST TO REPLACE A HEAD GASKET?

How much does replacement cost? Head gasket repairs cost between $800 and $2,000, sometimes even more. The price of the repair is based on year, make and model of the car. The cost may increase in cars that have engines with two heads, such as a V6 or a V8.

 HOW MUCH DOES IT COST TO REBUILD AN ENGINE?

 An eight cylinder engine, will cost around $500 to $700 to rebuild to original specifications. If you plan on doing a high performance rebuild on a Chevy small block eight cylinder, you can feasibly spend as much as $1,000 or more if you're not careful.

 HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO PUT IN A NEW ENGINE?

 The typical time to remove and replace most car engines is about 7-8 hours, but some may take longer if there's much more to remove as well.

 HOW DO YOU KNOW IF YOU HAVE A BAD HEAD GASKET?

Common symptoms of a blown head gasket include the following:

 ·         External leaks of coolant from under the exhaust gasket.

·         Overheating under the hood.

·         Smoke blowing from the exhaust with a white-ish tint.

·         Depleted coolant levels with no trace of leakage.

·         Bubble formations in the radiator and overflow compartment.

  PAGE IS RELATED TO:

 ·         Engine Replacement Shops Near Me

·         Engine Rebuild Shops Near Me

·         Engines Prices

·         Remanufactured Engines

·         Rebuilt Engines For Sale

·         Engine Installation Shops Near Me

·         Car Engine Repair Near Me

·         Engine Performance Shops Near Me

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[c1qfxugcgy0]

Exactly one year ago today I transfered the title on, and thereby took full legal possession of, my old beat up 1997 Jaguar XJ6. A burning question of many people looking to follow the Tavarish route of buying a cheap old luxe car, and doing all the maintenance themselves, is: how much does it cost? You can spend $3K on a cheap Rolls, but if it costs you $10K a year to keep it running...

And so here’s the list of every single dollar I spent on my car over the last 12 months:

$1500, to buy it

$331.75, sales tax, title transfer, new plates, tabs for one year, emissions

$698.96, brake fluid flush, new rear pads and rotors

$380.64, four new tires

$142, new battery

$40-something for first oil change, conventional oil

$15 ish for a fuel filter, in the hopes of fixing the rough idle (didn’t work)

$23.89, idle air control valve, to fix the rough idle (didn’t work)

$278.35, 6 new spark plugs and coil packs, for the rough idle (nope)

$44.53, EGR temperature sensor, for the rough idle (nah)

$101.90, EGR valve, for what you would guess (no dice)

$20, coolant flush (nothing to do with the rough idle, just a good idea)

$64.65, oil change, 5W50 full synthetic. And this was when NAPA had Mobil 1 on sale for only $5.79 a quart!

When you add that up, which I did just now for the very first time, it comes out to $3,641.67, which is a heck of a lot to spend on a car that still idles badly! If you add the cost of gas and insurance, that comes out to something like $2.50 per mile. (I drove about 2,400 miles last year)

I’ve fixed basically nothing from the defect list on the original post. And, of course, more things have broken since I wrote it, because it’s a Jaguar.

Still haven’t fixed the second radiator cooling fan, of course, or gone to a body shop to get a quote on what unbending the bracket will cost

There’s an ominous ratting noise coming from the AC compressor. It still works, but when it fails, replacing it will cost something like $350+. This assumes I do all the work myself, renting a vacuum pump and AC manifold from someone.

A new quirk: the car alarm sometimes goes off when I unlock the car. Not every time, maybe 1 in 5.

The interior driver’s side door handle linkage broke. If I want to get out of my car now, I roll down the window and unlatch it from the outside.

It never shifted particularly smoothly, but they have been getting subtly worse. Of all the problems with the car, this has the potential to be the most expensive.

So, I’m in something of an inconvenient spot here. Besides the many, many cosmetic problems, and the unhappy feelings coming from the transmission, this car is actually in pretty good mechanical shape! The frame is rust free, and the oil analysis says there’s nothing ominous in the used oil. (Things you don’t want to see in your engine oil: metal shavings, gasoline, antifreeze, sand, radium) It doesn’t even leak any oil, which is amazing for a 21 year old British engine with 158,000 miles on it.

So I guess I should keep it. For at least another year.

[raymondsecurityadventures]

Deepwater Horizon

Tumblr doesn’t really seem like the platform to have an unbiased discussion of the serious oil company and employee failings but sure:

The Deepwater Horizon incident involved a lot of oil flowing into the Gulf of Mexico, lots of dead fish, a lot of money paid in fines and a lot of different organisations investigating which became the catalyst for a crappy Hollywood action movie that no-one liked and which will not be discussed here.

I’m here to quickly introduce the probable causes of this incident and use my powers of hindsight to deduce where and what went wrong and come up with possible preventative remedies.

Some Deepwater Drilling Context

The oil well is 5000ft underneath the Deepwater Horizon rig, which floating about the surface, and all control of the well is done through the Blowout Preventer (BOP). The BOP is connected to the rig via a series of pipes and encased wires and hydraulics, through which the hydrocarbons (oil and gas) and control signals pass. These pipes would be disconnected by various safety mechanisms in the BOP; most crucially the annular valve and blind shear ram.

The Deepwater Horizon was an unanchored rig and positioned by its own motors which were powered electrically and its sole mission was to close off the well by cementing it.

It may also be important to note that an earthquake had struck that area in 2006, potentially compromising the bedrock into which the well was drilled.

What went wrong

Well, in summary, basically everything. It’s widely believed that if any of 4 different things - each thing with their own multitude of preventative measures - then perhaps only a large-ish incident would’ve occurred, rather than a catastrophe. These 4 different things were: the failure of the cement job, hydrocarbon inflow/failure of well integrity test, gas finding an ignition source and loss of power, the failure of the BOP.

The Cement Job

The cement used was a nitrified cement, meaning that it was full of air-pockets that made it easy to spread but slightly more brittle. By injecting the cement into the hole, the well was to be plugged.

To do this, a string - basically a thin pipe - was threaded from the rig down the pipe casing. This string had to be lowered 18000ft, which meant that it had to be conducive to the flow of liquid at all times, else said string would be incredibly difficult to lower. Thus, to prevent mud from clogging up the string, a float collar was needed - basically a valve that acted like a truck exhaust valve - that would allow the passage of liquid but not heavier mud. To retract the string after the cement had been injected, the valve would need to be inverted by simply increasing the pressure. This could not be done at 900psi however, and it was decided that 3000psi be used instead. This could have also contributed to the weakening of the rock, as 3000psi definitely exceeded the fracture pressure of the rock, and fractures would have likely occurred; compromising the rock.

Furthermore, it was discovered that the string was likely not in the middle of the outer casing (centralised). This is problematic, as the cement was to be injected from the string and fill said casing evenly to plug the well, and as we all know, cement is not a newtonian fluid. This means that it will tend not to fill large gaps in the way normal fluids do, if the gap is not even, and it’s speculated that because only 6 centralisers - as opposed to the 21 required - that the cement did not fill the well evenly. Which, of course, would lead to a suboptimal plugging of the well.

With all this in mind however, BP suggested that it was more likely that the seal had not failed but the shoe track (the cement injector at the end of the string); which provided the better explanation for the key observations of the incident.

Gas Ignition and BOP Failure

Two negative tests (well integrity tests) were conducted to check for pressure through the various pipes leading to the BOP. The first tests were unsuccessful, however, these were chalked up to the bladder effect. A third test was conducted on the kill line, which returned no pressure - a success - and the test result was accepted. However, the kill line was found blocked by a strange non-standard hybrid spacer fluid - which would explain the lack of pressure. The fluid, which was used to displace mud, crossed the kill line due to its strange viscosity (as opposed to normally staying above the kill line) and entered it, causing a blockage.

Anyway, so a lot of things went wrong. Here’s how we could fix it:

Small Picture, Technical Improvements:

1. Power the rigs using batteries. Then the thing wouldn’t have exploded at all, the BOP wouldn’t have failed and nothing would have happened. 

2.  Shift the power hierarchy of the managers on the rig. Too many cooks spoil the broth, or in this case, too many managers arguing over what they should do lead to weird disagreements which lead to a bunch of shortcuts being taken regarding the safety of the rig.   

3.  Adding additional depth to the redundancy features of the rig: additional blind shear ram, additional ROV control panel, additional hydraulics.

4.  Making people do their jobs. When a concrete expert told the employees on the rig to hook up the additional centralisers to the pipe, they should have bloody done it rather than be lazy.

Big Picture Improvements

Now companies like to fuck around a lot and cut corners, especially if it means that cutting these corners and fucking up like this is actually cheaper than not cutting corners. The way around this is to force them to not cut corners. This can be done by:

1. Holding managers and directors in charge of safety MORE accountable. I know some people were charged for murder but they were let off on lesser charges. Just charge them for murder next time. 

2. Assuming half the government are in the pockets of BP, we can seek to conduct a purge of government appointed regulators. Remove those with any traceable association to more powerful industry figures and replace them with experts or at least uncorrupt people who will listen to experts. Then have these regulators set higher penalties to force them not to cut corners. 

3. Ban lobbying sums of over 50,000 dollars. I know some legislators have given their vote to big corporations for paltry sums, but this is a start. Everyone has a price, and 50k is a price a lot more people won’t prefer over their morals. Then appoint regulators that will force companies to not cut corners. 

#cyka-blyat #secs #analysis

[dallasmbrownb]

Wall hung toilets and other antique fixtures

Here is a pair of what I think are pre war, wall hung toilets. One was missing the original lid and has a newer close-ish one not shown in the pictures. Also, the urinal, sink, and water fountain appear to be the same vintage. The water fountain was off but had a really new valve on it. I bet the drain is plugged. I had to replace some fill valves and flappers. I also had to work on the hot tap because it wouldn't shut off. I re-did the cold tap as well. The washer on the hot tap was squashed so much outward I had to unscrew the stem from the washer screw and use needle nose to get it out. You can see it doesn't fit through the stem threads anymore. Those were on the 2nd floor. On the first floor they had a pair of newer central brass faucets which also needed washers and a couple new seats. I love when an old building like this is owned by someone willing to keep the original fixtures working, within reason of course. I would love to have that water fountain.

Attached Thumbnails

          from RSSMix.com Mix ID 8247361 https://www.plumbingzone.com/f7/wall-hung-toilets-other-antique-fixtures-84046/ via http://www.rssmix.com/

[kryssieness]

Catch-Up, Rant, Business, Health... that’s the trigger warnings, not the title.

Strap in.  It’s been a bit and it’s going to be a bumpy ride.

Don’t remember when I last updated; I’m pretty sure it was around March or April.  So, moving forward.

In May, a friend of mine who I was just starting to get to know better after about a year and half, died from leukemia.  Because it started as a knee problem in February...and the doctors told her she was just fat and needed to lose weight (she also happened to have Hashimoto’s Thyroiditis/Hypothyroidism).  She died ON her 43rd birthday...with the diagnosis having been delivered just two days prior.  “It was an aggressive form,” I was told when I made a stink about ignoring her because “she was fat.”  I said, “There is no form of leukemia that kills you in two days.  The most aggressive form takes two weeks and is predominately found in men.”

I decided to start selling my medieval-ish aromatherapy stuff and added to it some geeky purses and whatnot (http://www.alchemicaltreasures.com for the shameless plug).  I made a HUGE leap of faith and committed to vending at our big SCA War here in the Kingdom of Caid, Great Western War.  We’re in August and I’m freaking out because I don’t know how much of *anything* to make and bring.  I’m probably going to have more of the practical items available like after-sun care, bug spray, and anti-itch ointments, along with some modern supplies (like tampons/pads, tooth brushes, tooth paste, shampoos, etc), and, if I can get the equipment, hand-made soaps.  I have everything I need *EXCEPT* the dedicated tools.

I’m *still* working on my dissertation.  There’s nothing more to say on that.

Today, I woke up to an e-mail from Etsy that said, “Congratulations on your first sale!” And I was super excited!  Then, about 45 minutes later, I got a push notification from my healthcare provider that I had a new billing statement.... to the tune of $1240.

Why so much?  Because I had a very needed echocardiogram done at the end of June (I was having severe heart palpitations that were causing pain in my chest; the test was negative for anything).  I was diagnosed this year with Lupus and a common problem with Lupus is perichardytis and/or mitrial valve prolapse (which is also common for women of my age bracket).  My insurance that is quite good and we pay a lot of money for.... didn’t cover a single cent of this proceedure.  $1154 to make sure my heart wasn’t going to explode or stop functioning.  And the insurance decided it wasn’t an important enough thing for them to cover.

So, now I’m considering pulling my etsy shop (because it’s costing me a lot of money); canceling my vending at the war (which would give me a SLIGHT refund); and quitting my PhD candidacy just so I can take a job as a CSR or some other mind-numbing, not-me type job to pay for just living.

I can’t afford to run my business because I can’t afford to pay for the bills I actually need to pay because I can’t get the things I need to run my business because I don’t have a regular 9-5 job.  No one is interested in hiring a PhD candidate in the field of I/O Psychology, right now, despite the fact that I have a 3.94 GPA and am amazing at what I do.  “Not enough experience,” they say.  Because no one will hire a grad student straight out of their schooling....

I have a Patreon account (https://www.patreon.com/alchemicaltreasures) and I even started a GoFundMe, but I’m terrible at self-promotion. I’m at the end of my rope and it’s a very long drop. I’m way out of spell slots and haven’t seen a spoon in months...

#lupus #spoonie #small business #healthcare #self promotion #depression #what am I doing with my life #really

[auntabysmal]

Okay nevermind, I want Bumblebee to do a sexy lap dance on Blitzwing to Streets by Doja Cat.

#transformers #transformers animated #tfa bumblebee #tfa blitzwing #bumblebee #blitzwing #blitzbee #valve plug-ish???? #streets doja cat

[lovelyfantasticfart]

2018 BMW 5 Collection - Consumers Guide

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[robertkstone]

2018 Porsche Panamera 4 E-Hybrid Sport Turismo First Test

By its very definition, no one wins when you compromise. This is especially true if you’re a discerning car enthusiast looking for a one-size-fits-all approach to your family car. More often than not, the cars that are most practical aren’t particularly fun to drive, but sportier options are neither roomy nor efficient. That equation gets even more complicated once you bring efficiency, fuel costs, and climate change–causing emissions into the equation. Thankfully, it seems some problems are easily solved by throwing money at them—the 2018 Porsche Panamera E-Hybrid Sport Turismo is the ultimate be-all, end-all family car for the evolved (and let’s get this out of the way early—wealthy) car enthusiast.

Practicality

You’re not going to be able to sell your significant other on a family car if it isn’t practical. Riding on the Volkswagen Group’s MSB platform, the Panamera Sport Turismo shares everything forward of (and beneath) the B-pillar with its non–Sport Turismo sibling. Behind that B-pillar is a revised roofline, ending in a tidy-looking tailgate. The already-roomy rear seat benefits from the extra airiness provided by a larger rear cargo area, and cargo volume in the trunk balloons from 14.3 to 18.3 cubic feet.

The fold-flat back seat is tilted back a bit to improve headroom for taller passengers without ruining the roofline (as was the case with the first-generation Panamera); legroom, although not limolike, is perfectly acceptable for most taller occupants.

Front occupants are well taken care of, too, with comfortable seats, near-SUV levels of visibility, and a large, easy-to-use Porsche Connect infotainment display. Its sole miss—not enough cupholders or storage cubbies for family considerations.

Sportiness

Just like a Jeep has got to live up to the badge on its hood, a Porsche does, too. This family-friendly hybrid station wagon delivers in spades there. Developed using technology and know-how from Porsche’s 918 Spyder hypercar and Le Mans–winning 919 Hybrid, the Panamera Sport Turismo pairs a 330-hp 2.9-liter twin-turbo V-6 with a 136-hp electric motor wedged between the six-cylinder and Porsche’s latest PDK eight-speed twin-clutch automatic. Its total system output is a not-insignificant 464 hp and 516 lb-ft of torque. That’s more power and more torque than the twin-turbo V-8-powered Panamera GTS.

Paired with Porsche’s standard torque-vectoring all-wheel-drive system, our electrified Panamera station wagon was shockingly (sorry) fast at the track. With its 14.1-kW-hr battery topped off and launch control enabled, the Panamera 4 E-Hybrid Sport Turismo accelerated from 0 to 60 mph in 3.7 seconds and on through the quarter mile in 12.3 seconds at 112.7 mph.

Our 60–0 brake tests revealed the brakes to be softer and more prone to fade than we’ve typically seen from Porsches. Its best stop of 109 feet was followed by increasingly longer stop distances. We suspect the Panamera E-Hybrid’s regenerative brakes trying to scavenge for electricity is the culprit. At any rate, Porsche offers carbon-ceramic brakes on the E-Hybrid, which ought to improve performance considerably.

Despite its 5,016-pound curb weight, this Panamera has no trouble dancing through a corner or two. Aided by the optional rear-axle steering system (at a fairly reasonable—for a Porsche—$1,620), this Sport Turismo lapped our figure-eight course in 24.4 seconds at 0.79 g, and it averaged 0.96 g on the skidpad.

On the road, the Panamera E-Hybrid is, in a word, fascinating. Given the complicated dance going on between the Porsche’s gas engine, electric motor, eight-speed transmission, regenerative brakes, and torque-vectoring all-wheel-drive system, you’d think the car would be constantly fighting itself. Instead, the systems are all in sync.

The stark differences between each of the Panamera’s four drive modes were probably the most interesting to me. With its battery full, E-Power mode is the default setting. Despite its modest 16 miles of electric range in this mode, this plug-in hybrid does a remarkable job at mimicking the experience of a traditional full-size electric vehicle, like a Tesla Model S. Aided by the PDK, the Panamera’s electric motor makes the most of its 136 hp and 295 lb-ft of torque. On electrons the Sport Turismo feels decently quick, accelerating from 0 to 60 mph in 5-ish seconds. The gas engine only fires up in E-Power if you press the throttle past its kick-down point or once you deplete the battery, when the Panamera will change into Hybrid Auto mode.

Hybrid Auto seems to be the best of both worlds between full-electric E-Power and performance-optimized Sport and Sport Plus modes. In Hybrid Auto, the Panamera still prioritizes efficient electric driving, but it’ll quickly fire up its V-6 when power is needed or to charge the battery. You can also manually fire up the engine to either save the battery’s state of charge or to charge the battery using the gas engine. Again, the most remarkable thing here is how unremarkable it all is. Save for the tach swinging up and down as the gas engine unobtrusively turns on and off, the drive experience is pure Porsche.

That’s especially true in Sport and Sport Plus modes. The most amazing thing to me is how linear this car accelerates considering all the variables in the powertrain—you get a punch in the gut from the electric motor and all-wheel-drive system off the line, and then the Porsche’s V-6 picks up as the motor begins to lose steam. The result is a car that pulls strongly up near its 6,800-rpm redline before the transmission slingshots you into the next highest gear.

As we saw at the track, the long-roof Panamera hybrid is happy to dance, too. Like the last Panamera, the Sport Turismo drives far smaller than it is on twisty roads, thanks in part to its optional rear-wheel steering system. It’s easy to overdrive the car at first because of how quickly it turns in, but once you’re used to the car, it settles into a corner beautifully. If we’re nitpicking (and to be clear, I am), the Panamera’s sole weakness is that its steering feel borders on gummy in fast, back-to-back bends.

Efficiency

And now we come to the reason why the Panamera E-Hybrid Sport Turismo is the ultimate family car for the moneyed among us—simply put, no other vehicle (save for maybe a Tesla Model S P100D) is as fast, fun to drive, practical, and efficient as the electrified Panamera wagon.

The 16 miles of range the EPA rates the Panamera E-Hybrid’s battery at is accurate, and provided you have access to a Level 2 charger, it only takes about three hours for the Porsche’s battery to charge back up. Even with its small 14.1-kW-hr battery (and while only charging every other day), I managed to drive 122 miles on the battery pack and electric motor alone, according to the Panamera’s trip computer. Driven as a hybrid with the battery pack depleted, I averaged a hair over 23 mpg, 1 mpg better than the Sport Turismo’s 22-mpg EPA combined rating.

At 22 mpg, the Panamera E-Hybrid Sport Turismo ain’t exactly a Prius—but that’s just the point. No vehicle in its peer class, including heavyweights like the Mercedes-AMG CLS 53 4Matic or BMW 740e xDrive, so capably balances performance with efficiency. Yeah, at $118,150 it’s expensive, but considering it’s a capable sports car, family hauler, and relative efficiency, shouldn’t it be?

Ultimately the importance of cars like the Panamera E-Hybrid goes beyond how fast and efficient it is—performance hybrids like this Porsche help change the public perception of electrified vehicles. As the world slowly shifts to battery electric vehicles, cars like the Panamera Sport Turismo E-Hybrid will act as the stepping stone by showing the world that you really can have your cake—and eat it, too.

2018 Porsche Panamera 4 E-Hybrid Sport Turismo BASE PRICE $105,050 PRICE AS TESTED $118,150 VEHICLE LAYOUT Front-engine, AWD, 5-pass, 4-door wagon ENGINE 2.9L/330-hp/331-lb-ft twin-turbo DOHC 24-valve V-6 plus 136-hp/295-lb-ft electric motor; 464 hp/516 lb-ft combined TRANSMISSION 8-speed twin-clutch auto CURB WEIGHT (F/R DIST) 5,016 lb (48/52%) WHEELBASE 116.1 in LENGTH x WIDTH x HEIGHT 198.8 x 76.3 x 56.0 in TEST DATA ACCELERATION TO MPH 0-30 1.2 sec 0-40 1.9 0-50 2.8 0-60 3.7 0-70 4.9 0-80 6.3 0-90 7.8 0-100 9.7 0-100-0 13.9 PASSING, 45-65 MPH 2.0 QUARTER MILE 12.3 sec @ 112.7 mph BRAKING, 60-0 MPH 109 ft LATERAL ACCELERATION 0.96 g (avg) MT FIGURE EIGHT 24.4 sec @ 0.79 g (avg) TOP-GEAR REVS @ 60 MPH 1,200 rpm EPA CITY/HWY/COMB FUEL ECON 20/25/22 mpg ENERGY CONS, CITY/HWY 169/135 kW-hrs/100 miles CO2 EMISSIONS, COMB 0.88 lb/mile

IFTTT

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[mobilemechanicmelbournepros]

What would cause a car to overheat?

Written by World Class Auto Service and published on https://worldclassautoservice.com/.

If your car is overheating, it can be very serious. You shouldn’t continue to drive if you see the temperature gauge has moved towards the “hot” side. Your car may not immediately explode or anything like that, but driving with an overheating engine can cause serious damage to your vehicle. It’s better to pull over and deal with it right away instead of risking very expensive repairs later.

There are a number of things that can cause your engine to overheat. Some of these are fairly common issues, especially on a hot summer day.

Common Causes of Overheating and What to Do About It

It’s the beginning of summer and you’re stuck in traffic when all of a sudden your temperature gauge is on the BIG RED “H”. Guess what? Your vehicle is overheating* and you need to do something about it RIGHT NOW.

Before we get into the causes of vehicle overheating, let’s help minimize the potential damage to your car NOW until you can get it into a shop:

1- Turn off the AC immediately

2- Turn on your defroster and your heat to HOT, fan on High.

3- No, seriously. We know it’s Summer and you’re going to be uncomfortable until you can get your car off the road, but we’re talking thousands of dollars in damage if your car continues to overheat! Roll down the windows too, it’s gonna be hotter inside your car than outside here in a minute. The heater will pull as much heat out of your engine that it can, which just might be enough to avoid ruining it.

4- If you’re stopped in traffic, put your car in Neutral or Park and raise the engine speed. You’re trying to get the coolant circulating as much as possible. Raise the engine speed by pressing the gas pedal just enough to get the RPM gauge to the 2-ish mark(2000 RPMs). It doesn’t have to be exact, but you don’t want to rev your engine a lot past that or you’ll risk even worse problems.

5- If you’re moving, albeit slowly, but the car into the lowest gear that will maintain between 2 and 3 on the RPM gauge as you are headed to a good spot to pull over. If you start going too fast for that gear shift into the next higher one to maintain the 2-3000 RPM range.

6- Get off the road ASAP and use your AAA card (you do have one, right? You can learn more about getting one here.) to call for a tow.

Doing these things should help get that temperature gauge headed back down from the “H” mark, at least temporarily. If nothing happens to lower the temperature in about 2 minutes, SHUT THE CAR OFF right away. It’s up to you to decide if it’s safe enough to be sitting where your car stops, but we’ve seen lots and lots of ruined engines because people decided to drive “just a little farther” with an overheating vehicle.

Still with us? Now we’re going to tell you the likely reasons WHY your car just overheated and what to do to prevent it from happening in the first place.

If your vehicle is overheating, your engine is screaming for attention and your cooling system needs help. A vehicle can overheat at any point where the cooling system no longer is effectively absorbing, transporting and dissipating the heat created from your engine burning fuel.

Here are some of the most common reasons a vehicle’s cooling system begins to fail:

1. Leaks in the Cooling System

Leaks are the #1 reason a vehicle begins to overheat. Leaks in hoses, the radiator, water pump, thermostat housing, heater core, head gasket, freeze plugs and a few other things can all lead to problems with the vehicle’s cooling system. If you suspect a leak, or have had to add coolant to the reservoir don’t wait to get it checked. A small leak can quickly turn in to an expensive repair and a serious headache.

2. Coolant Concentration

You always want to use the correct type of coolant in your vehicle. The wrong coolant or the wrong mixture of coolant and distilled water can cause your vehicle to overheat. If you’re worried about your coolant concentration and haven’t kept up on regularly-scheduled vehicle maintenance, a complete cooling system flush is in order. Coolant actually becomes corrosive over time, accelerating the wear on the cooling system!

3. Bad Thermostat

Your thermostat is a key valve in the cooling system that ensures the coolant is able to pass through to the radiator when necessary. When the thermostat gets stuck in the closed position, the coolant can no longer pass through and becomes overheated in the engine. At any sign of your vehicle overheating, it’s a good idea to get the vehicle checked immediately so any possible simple repairs don’t become big problems.

4. Bad Radiator

Leaks and clogging can lead to your radiator failing and any disruption in the radiator’s function can lead to overheating since it can’t pull the heat away from the rest of the cooling system.

5. Worn Out or Burst Hoses

Hoses with cracks or even holes will leave you with a leaky engine and will disrupt the coolant’s flow. Your water pump can’t circulate coolant that’s not there due to it having leaked out from one of the hoses!

6. Bad Radiator Fan

Your radiator fan pulls air across the radiator to help reduce the coolant’s temperature but a worn fan clutch or broken fan motor can’t help to reduce the temperature and will lead to overheating.

7. Loose or Broken Belts

If a belt is loose or broken, specifically the water pump belt, it cannot help maintain the correct volume of coolant flow and can lead to overheating.

8. Bad Water Pump

Your water pump is the heart of your cooling system and if it’s not operating correctly, your vehicle lacks enough pressure to propel engine coolant throughout the cooling system. Any problems with the pump from erosion, leaks or anything else can cause your vehicle to overheat.

An overheating vehicle is a sign that needs immediate attention. In most cases, the original cause is a simple, low-cost repair. Unfortunately, most people ignore the initial problem and end up paying much more for extensive damage as a result.

If your vehicle is showing signs of overheating, be sure to give us a call today and we’ll be happy to test and assess the vehicle, provide the proper service and repairs and get you back on the road as quickly as possible.

*Yes, your car IS overheating, even though you don’t see clouds of steam and vapor pouring out from under the hood. That might happen if a coolant hose bursts, but it’s far more common for an engine to overheat without any outward signs

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