Blue for a Wedding: An 1872 Dress at the Grand Rapids Public Museum
This blue silk dress was offered up in the Fashion and Nature exhibition to point out yet another natural resource that was used for fashion: mother of pearl. You can see in the mannequin’s hands one such shell punched through with holes, each hole having been made into a button. Before plastic, mother of pearl was an easily found and satisfyingly decorative way to make buttons. And you can find all sorts of vintage mother of pearl in antique stores and online.
This was a wedding dress which tells you that not everyone married in white at the time. Although you will notice the touches of white lace at the collar and at the edges of the wide sleeves. These both drew attention to the face and hands and showed off a bit of luxury. Of course, the rich silk of the dress shows off luxury as well.
This dress offers such typical elements of Victorian women’s clothing: the tight bodice through the waist, the large and long flared skirt, and multiple kinds of decorative embellishment: including ribbon, fringe, and lace. The ribbon follows the cut of the dress and emphasizes the narrowness of the waist by swooping in from the shoulders along with the fringe. The ribbon also swoops around the sleeves and then around the overskirt as well along with the fringe. There is also a swirl of ribbon creating a little ornament on the sleeve just after the elbow. And, of course, do not forget the mother-of-pearl buttons shutting the dress. And this was far from the most ornamented of Victorian gowns. In fact, this is one of the simpler ones. They really liked to gussy up a dress in the mid to late 19th Century.
You can see it for yourself at Fashion and Nature running now at the Grand Rapids Public Museum: https://www.grpm.org/fashion-and-nature/
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whoever said modern clothing is better was LYING. i put on my victorian menswear and i immediately feel amazing. nothing can touch me! i have four layers on and you have no idea what my body looks like! i'm the hottest motherfucker ever! sure t-shirts are cool but have you ever tried a vest that gives you a slutty little waist?
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obsessed with the era of historical fashion between the 1860s and 1870s where aniline dyes kept being invented. you can find some absolute eyesores (affectionate) of dresses that were only made that way because “acid magenta” was invented last month and it was trendy.
like this iconic gown:
or this one from the 1870s in aniline purple and aniline black:
or a trendy yellow and black gown from c. 1865, perhaps?
feel free to reblog with additional eyesores (affectionate) that i might have missed
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The Dramatic Shirtwaist at the Grand Rapids Public Museum
I usually think of shirtwaist as puffy, printed, light-colored cotton garment like the one worn by my great grandmother, but of course, a shirtwaist, or blouse could come in any color.This one is part of the Fashion and Nature exhibition at the Grand Rapids Public Museum, part of the section on cotton and shirtwaists.
As you can see, it is an over-the-top design of excessive details and embellishments. The sheer black fabric is pleated down the sleeves, and each pleat is marked by a red velvet ball. The blacks backed with white, and lace trims the cuffs. Then lace collar has a red band outlining it as well as a red ribbon at the top of its high neckline and red bows to shut its surplice front. Don’t forget the red balls and bands at the shoulders. You can see why It reminded me of Elizabeth Phelps, the dress reformer who complained in 1873 that women’s fashion had become “a meaningless dazzle of broken effects.” This blouse dates to the early 20th Century, but the eye finds no rest as it travels up and down and across. No wonder the Dress Doctors kept harping on simplicity. Their eyes had been exhausted.
For more on this exhibition, go here: https://www.grpm.org/fashion-and-nature/
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Pop Culture Victorians:
Actual Victorians:
“If your eyes aren’t bleeding, it’s not historically accurate.”
- Abby Cox
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Lapel watch, USA, c. 1889, Cooper–Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum
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