The gauntlets for my Guild Wars 2 cosplay are done, other than sanding and painting! I still intend to finish this costume lol, it's just taking me extra time because life. All pieces are made of worbla over foam or cardboard, or by itself. The gloves are made from the same fabric (hand-dyed by me) as the rest of the costume. Everything is fully articulated to move with my hand and arm.
The only armor piece I have left is the upper arm. Then it's just wiring, sanding, painting, and styling the wig! Woo!
I'm pretty excited for this cosplay. Not only is it the most complex and difficult costume I've built, but it has also been with me through some tough times. At some point, I'll have to put all the pieces on and share some pictures :-)
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How i made xenos nails!!
Materials
-worbla
-2mm eva foam
-scissors
-heat gun
-soldering iron (technically optional but helps A LOT)
-gesso (i used regular gesso, but if you can id buy heavy body gesso)
-P400+P600 sand paper
-acyrlic paint (just silver is ok, but black will help)
-white gloves
-hot glue
PART 1- forming the base
This part is VERY hard to explain so hopefully the diagram helps- ill explain every step here
Finger tips
1. Cut out a piece of worbla thats double the length of the finger tip you want + a little extra.
2. Heat it slightly and fold that piece of worbla in half around your finger.
3. Form it slightly around your finger, leaving a little extra space for the glove material, then cut it out with good scissors. (NOTE- if you try to form it on your finger while wearing gloves, the worbla MAY stick to the gloves. Id recommend just doing it on your bare finger)
4. Heat it up again until its very soft and round out the shape, making sure the sides stick together. If its too small when you test fit it around the glove, try to push out the walls a bit more.
Nails
Watch this video before starting this part-
1. Find a good length for your nails- mine are approx. 3 inches. Make a template and then cut the shape out of eva foam.
2. Cut out TWO pieces of worbla a little bigger then the nail strip and heat one up, sticky side up (the sticky side is shiny). Put the eva foam strip in the middle. Heat up the second piece of worbla and put it on top, sandwiching the eva foam.
3. Score all around the eva strip then cut AS CLOSE as possible to the edge.
Attaching the pieces
1. Heat up the finger tip and half of the nail. Attach the nail to the finger tip while wearing it to make sure it doesnt cave in. Use a picture from the manga as reference while doing this part
2. Once again, using a manga reference, use scrap worbla to fill out the sides and smooth everything down. This is the part where you can use a soldering iron to smooth everything out- be careful though, because you can easily burn the worbla.
2.5. I forgot to make a diagram but dont forget to curve the nails! I used a little metal dome to get a consistent curve for all of them.
3. Make little worbla balls, flatten them with something flat, then attach them to the nails while still hot.
Now repeat ALL these steps for all 10 nails! Yay!
PART 2- priming
For priming i used regular gesso because I was impatient, but if you have plenty of time I recommend heavy body gesso. It took me 12 layers to get everything decently smooth, but if you used heavy body it would probably take 3-5 layers.
I also used floral foam, craft sticks, and sticky tack for my painting setup- if you can think of a better method without sticky tack id recommend trying something else- just because i had to pick out the sticky tack with tweezers, and it took forever lol
Two things to note about gesso-
1. It doesnt self level so you need to sand it smooth
2. DO NOT DRY SAND!! Always wet sand gesso
My exact steps were this-
4 layers of gesso -> sand with P400 -> 4 layers of gesso -> sand with P400 -> 4 layers of gesso -> sand with P600
This part is very time consuming if you use regular gesso, but its definitely worth it for the smooth finish.
PART 3- painting
Before adding silver, I threw down a quick matte black layer. It tends to make metals look much better and it wont take long to dry, so I highly recommend it.
For the silver, i used decoart extreme sheen in silver, which i highly recommend. Relatively cheap and can be found in any craft store
Id also recommend having all your brush strokes go vertically if you can- it looks much cleaner.
PART 4 (final part)- attachment
I used a pair of white gloves i bought a while back at spirit halloween, but you can make them or buy them- doesnt matter as long as you like them.
This part is kinda dumb but I genuinely dont know if theres a better method… i put hot glue in the nails, let it cool for a couple of seconds, then put them ON MY FINGERS while wearing the gloves. It gets you the best fit possible but also burns a little so watch out.
And thats it! Thats all there is to it. Let me know if you found this helpful, and if anything was confusing leave a comment and ill try to help you.
As a bonus heres a picture that works very well for reference
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That right there 👆
Is the bane of my existence and my current reason why my carpal tunnel is acting up.
I HAND CUT the stain glass windows on the top of the cup. 2 times. It's Worblas pearly art. I used a pair of scissors and a scalpel.
This is for the Hellish Debut project. Which is due this Saturday!
I still need to add the stain glass, add the filigree, paint and gild with gold leaf. (Plus weather it) in 2 DAYS.
It better be worth it.
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Bo Katan Helmet (Finished)
Not a lot to say that I didn't already say in the previous post. I had hoped that getting it painted would help further cover up a lot of the imperfections and roughness of this Worbla-coated 3D printed helmet, and it did, but it still wasn't quite enough.
The plan was to use Worbla in hopes of cutting out the sanding/filler step and achieve a smoother helmet much faster. Unfortunately, the jankiness of the rushed print created a lot of spaces the heated Worbla would fill in a bit too much and leave bumps and creases on the outer shell. So I STILL had to do a lot of filler and sanding to try and even it out, and it STILL didn't make it much better. (But at least I did finally manage to get those seams filled in and smoothed over.)
I tried to do a layer of Plasti-Dip before the other paint, but I ran out before even getting a full coat, so I just had to hope the actual paint would fill in the rough surface of the Worbla. And it...mostly did.
I knew the blue paint I had would be too dark, but I thought "maybe...?" It's too dark. I actually ended up repainting about 80% of the thing by hand. Tried making a painter tape stencil. Screwed it up, and just did the pattern by hand with silver and black permanent markers.
Then I gave it one last scrub with some fine sandpaper. Partly to scuff it up and get the worn look, and partly in hopes of getting it just a BIT smoother before the final finishing spray for which I employed my rarely used glossy finish.
So yeah. Quite the learning experience, like most projects. The lessons I learned from this will make future projects that much better.
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