My Trip to Japan! ⛩️Part 1
LONG post. All of these series will be long AF.
9.12 ➡️ all dates are dd.mm
When we arrived at Tokyo-Haneda, I was down with a terrible cold. I dozed off quite a bit during the flight, but I was still exhausted. We left our luggage at the hotel near Shinbashi station and, after a rather forgettable lunch we strolled around fancy Ginza for a while. I soldiered on, but as we approached the Imperial Palace gardens, my body gave up, and we returned to the hotel. I stayed sleeping all afternoon. Husband, after a nap, went out to continue exploring the area and had dinner around there. Around 9 pm I ate some chocolates I happened to have, only to avoid taking the cold medicine on an empty stomach, but I wasn't hungry and went back to bed almost right away.
10.12
I had a relatively good night, with only a bit of coughing. We had breakfast at a nearby cafe and went to Ueno. We walked around the park a bit and visited the National Museum, as well as a couple of temples on the park grounds. From there, we walked to the Okachimachi area, where we had a very tasty and cheap fish lunch. Then, we took the Yamanote Line to visit the stairs of the Suga Temple: the ones at the end of Kimi no na wa. There were plenty of fans taking pictures, of course—though we were easily the eldest. (The stairs do not belong to the temple; the temple entrance is right there after you climb them)
After that, we headed to Shinjuku, and went up to the (free!) observation deck of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building. It was already dark, so we were treated to the beautiful views of the the lit-up city.
On the way back, we passed by a Don Quijote. "Donki," as they call it, is a chain of cheap stores where they sell all kinds of things: snacks, drugstore, stationery, electronics, household items, accessories, even a sex shop section. It's a good place to get items from brands or characters at more economical prices than in the official stores of those franchises. I bought cute Ghibli and Sanrio stuff here, and in fact, the variety of Sanrio items was on par with some official brand stores I visited, and the letter sets I got here were better. Donki is a perdition: ontop pf price and variety, it's absolutely packed, and its labyrinthine structure makes it too easy to get lost inside, so getting out is more complicated than getting in.
11.12
We took the subway to Asakusa and visited Sensō-Ji, the oldest, they say, Buddhist temple in Tokyo. Plenty of souvenir stalls, amulets, and omikuji (fortunes). I left my omikuji tied to the bars set up for that purpose, as tradition dictates if the oracle is not favorable to the wish made; Husband asked for the same, but he got a good omen; looks like it's set up so that the gods always look good.
Also, I got my first goshuin. Goshuin is not a regular stamp; it consists of one or more stamps plus a calligraphed text bearing the temple name, date, and the deity there enshrined or a fragment of some sacred text. Depending on each location, they write it in front of you in a moment (and it'beautiful to see how they work) or make you leave your notebook while you do the tour, and they return it sealed at the end. I used the blank pages of my travel journal, but there are specific notebooks for collecting goshuin, and some temples only do the stamp on those. In those cases, they already offer the goshuin pre-stamped on loose papers. Prices range from ¥300 to ¥500; some more important temples offer several models and also special goshuin, double both in size and price.
From there I dragged Husband to the Solamachi shopping center for me to raid the Ghibli store. Don’t ask me what other shops are there. The mall itself being quite a maze, I didn’t have time to check for anything else. Since we were already there, we decided to go up to the Sky Tree tower. At ¥2000, it’s the most expensive entrance ticket we bought (save Ghibli Park). Despite the shitty weather, the view from 350 meters high was amazing.
Since the tower was out of schedule, we were a bit tight on time to get to the Ghibli Museum. It's on the outskirts of Tokyo, in a place called Mitaka.
We lunched some overpriced sandwiches and then went to the museum: What a beauty! The building, in the middle of the forest, has a distinct Hundertwasser vibe. The entrance ticket contains a freaking, actual piece of film! Ours were from Ponyo and Howl’s moving Castle.
Photos are not allowed inside the museum, only in the gardens; while it’s a bummer, I can get it. Everything looks so amazing, circulation would be impossible if everyone was caught up taking pictures. The exhibit about the creative process and the colouring of the animation cells is so full of detail, you could spend the whole day inside. There’s also a room where they explore different animation techniques. if you’ve been to a ciname museum, you’ll likely know about most of them, but the fact that here they’re made with Ghibli cuteness in all its glory makes it absolutely wonderful. The Saturn cinema features shorts made especially for the museum. On the day we went there we got "Pandane to Tamago-hime," a beautiful fairytale whose MC, the supercute Egg Princess of the title, forever stole my heart. I bought a keychain doll of her in the shop (aptly named "Mamma, aiuto!," as one does want to just loot it all) and hung it from my backpack for the rest of the trip. We had tea in the Tuscany-inspired museum's cafe.
We returned to Tokyo and headed to Shibuya. We went up to an ridiculously expensive (¥1500 entrance with a drink – beer or soft nothing fancy) bar on the top floor of the Magnet building. Except for the views, the place had zero vibe, but well, that's what you get if you want to take a picture of the famous crossing from above.
On the sixth floor of the same building there’s was a One Piece store, I got the stamp, but I didn't buy anything. I'm not a fan of the post-time skip aesthetic, tbh. I think it’s worth mentioning that many train stations, businesses, and tourist spots in Japan have commemorative stamps available for visitors. A simple and totally free way to have a souvenir.
I was also floored by the overwhelming commercial density of the city. Any middle-of-the-road, six-metre-wide building hides a mini shopping centre inside, not like, a mall, but one or two businesses on each floor. Some even have businesses on the lower floors and residences above. It's mind-blowing.
We also passed by Daiso. Daiso is a famous ¥100 store chain. Real ¥100, not like pound stores, where half of the items cost more than that. They have everything, and everything costs ¥100. Cute stuff, too. Real licenced merch, not bootlegs. Plus all kinds of nice house and kitchen stuff. It's extremely difficult to resist buying everything.
12.12
The rain frustrated our morning plans; didn’t fancy getting wet when I was just recovering from the cold. At noon we went to Shinjuku, had lunch at inside the station and, 1:15 sharp, we departed by bus to Yamanakako, at the feet of Mt. Fuji. After settling into our Japanese-style room, we went to the private onsen we had reserved during check-in. This was the only bath we were in together, as public onsen and sento are segregated.
13.12
The next day was cold but sunny. We took the bus to Oshinohakkai, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Oshino is the village, and the hakkai are a series of eight natural springs, hence the name (八海 combines the kanji for "eight" and "sea"), which have been revered since ancient times as sacred places where various gods reside. The place is beautiful, peppered with ponds from which tiny streams emerge, with carp and trout swimming, and Mount Fuji in the background, truly delightful.
We went back, bought some food at the konbini to have lunch in the hotel room, and then we hiked to a Shinto shrine on Ishiwari mountain. It was grueling for a couch potato like yours truly, but the struggle paid off, and the small shrine up there is an almost magical place, next to a sacred rock with a narrow crack through which, they say, if you pass three times, your wish will come true. We went down a different path that took us straight to the village onsen, perfect for relaxing after the physical effort.
14.12
After breakfast, we said goodbye to Yamanakako to take the bus to Mishima, from where we took the Shinkansen to Nagoya. Nagoya, however, didn't welcome us with open arms. The signage to the Sakuradori metro line was poor and and without a damn elevator or escalator, which is baffling in a station of that magnitude. After carrying the suitcases to the platform, we saw, by the signs for the exit for disabled people, that there was but one (1) elevator. To make matters worse, it was noon, and the restaurants were full, so went to the hotel to leave the suitcases first and then went out for lunch, already starving.
Belly full and content hearts, we walked to Nagoya Castle. The castle consists of two main pavilions, the castle itself (the defense tower, which was closed) and the Honmaru palace. The original was destroyed in World War II. Many paintings, however, were saved, although for preservation reasons, the ones exhibited are identical copies. The current castle was rebuilt in the fifties. The rooms were beautiful, with a minimalist luxury that stands out more when you think the castle is from the 17th century, and Europe was in full-on Baroque mode then. The city is very different from Tokyo. Wide, grid-like streets, downtown more aesthetically cohesive. More breathing room.
After the castle, we paraded through the main shopping streets of the city and briefly passed by Osu Kannon Temple; it was already dark, so we walked back, looking at shop windows, and had dinner at one of those places where you put coins in a machine, hand over the ticket, and they prepare the corresponding dish. Decadent vintage vibe, the food just passed, but it was an interesting experience.
Back at the hotel, we used their onsen, or rather sentō. As washing before entering is a requirement, and they provide soap, shampoo, and conditioner (ofc you may byo), we came out spick and span, and it meant we did not use our room shower at all either here nor later in Nara where we also had a sentō. Sounds like a smart move for the hotel to save water if you ask me.
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Toumyu Suehirogari
Yeah I watched it!
I went to Fuji Q on the 18th by regular tourist bus and it took forever cause traffic was awful, and we made stops at Gotemba outlets and Yamanakako. Got to Fuji Q way later than expected, didn't have chill lunch at the park but had chill conbini food outside... that conbini got so overrun that by the time we got out, there was a line just to get in to buy things.
I'm so glad I was with friends, otherwise everything would have made me cry, I hate crowds. Toumyu also provided storage which was kinda of expensive since they asked 1000 yen even for a small suitcase, but it was still very useful since we couldn't check in to our shared house beforehand.
The goods line seemed pretty crazy, and didn't really get better as time went on. If anthing, people were sceptical about the water at first but later on that got sold out the fastest. People would line up from in the morning for hours to get water, y'all. Thirsty hoes literally.
Anyways this was the first time I ever went to a shonichi (very first day/show) and it was WILD. Like of course we knew about the mini stages and the carts but when things actually began to happen, you did not know where to look. We had seats pretty far back, but they gave a good view of one mini stage + the path of the cart behind us.
The first time a cart came by, I'm pretty sure that Samidare saw my "wan!" uchiwa. I don't have a brain to remember the setlist but there are things circling around on twitter. Either way, it was such a good show, everything was so fun, I had to cheat a lot with my penlights cause I missed a lot of colours but I got by I think.
Daigo sang his solo (I love Tears, despite not liking most ballads this one is just so dramatic), he also had a duet with Koryuu I believe.
The whole show went by so fast, I loved seeing everyone, they had crane stages for another duet, and they ended with a bit of fireworks. Truly the summer festival we deserved.
The next day we did some Fuji Q-ing which is accurate because lining up made up over half the day. It was very crowded. And it was very crowded the whole week, so it had nothing to do with regular visitors but everything with sword girlies. Took lots of pics too, and I stayed the longest since some friends went to see the show again and others went home. Ate Belgian fries, got another toumyu collab snack now that there were NO lines. (earlier we waited in line to order and then friends waited SO long to receive the drinks, it was pretty bad).
I saw the show again on Tuesday after having spent some time around lake Kawaguchi(ko) since my friend was doing some telework.
It was another show with Daigo, this time Tsurumaru also did his solo.
My seat was closer but I didn't have a good view of the main stage anyway and not as good of the carts either. Still really fun though...
I stayed another day for more Tourism (which was fun but also a bit frustrating and tiring), then hung at Fuji Q and with friends again, and then took another bus straight home. This time no stops in between and I was home in two and a half hours.
Suehirogari was great! It was a hassle and hotels were expensive but the show was amazing.
Unfortunately Sasamori got sick and had to miss the final two shows. Poor sap. I hope he rests and eats well cause I just feel like he overdoes it and doesn't sustain himself well enough :c
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