#yellow grub disease

[bugoutpest]

Termite Control Morayfield

Brisbane’s warm climate and older wooden colonial homes are a termite’s paradise. Without regular home termite inspections, these pests can cause serious damage to your property.

Sunshine Pest Management can provide an affordable and effective home termite inspection and treatment. Call today and get your free quote! We cover gardens, fences, timber structures, retaining walls, roof voids and more. To know more about Termite Control Morayfield, visit the Bug Out Pest Solutions website or call 0426263320.

Cockroaches are attracted to the same environments as termites and can quickly develop into a pest problem. Preventative measures like cleaning, storing food in containers with lids, removing rubbish daily, and sealing crevices and cracks can all help.

Unlike termites which feed exclusively on cellulose, cockroaches are scavengers and will consume a wide range of materials including decaying organic matter and discarded human food waste. They can also contaminate food and water-handling surfaces in your home.

Often referred to as wood roaches, they are typically found outdoors in logs, tree stumps and woodpiles. They may also invade homes in search of food and shelter.

These wingless pests are easy to identify with their carrot-shaped bodies and long antennae. They’re usually found in damp areas with high humidity, such as basements, laundry rooms, attics, and crawl spaces.

The first sign of a silverfish infestation is chewed holes in books, wallpapers and other paper materials. You might also notice yellow stains and black specks around your home.

They’re attracted to starchy foods and paper products so storing food in airtight containers, and reducing moisture levels are key preventative measures. Clearing away outside debris and caulking cracks can also help. If you’re concerned that you may have a silverfish infestation, contact a Pest Ex professional.

Flies are a common problem on farms, horse stables and ranches. They are also a nuisance in homes and can carry disease-causing organisms.

Adult flies enter structures through open, torn or loosely-sealed doors and windows. Their eggs are laid in garbage cans, compost piles, excrement and rotting organic material.

Winged flies are commonly mistaken for termite swarmers. The difference is that swarmers have wings that are all the same length and lack the thin pinched waist that distinguishes ant workers. It is important that you have a professional identify any swarmers found in your home. They are the sign of a termite colony nearby.

Mosquitoes are a nuisance pest, and some species can transmit serious diseases. Using repellents can help reduce mosquito populations. Citronella is a popular choice, as well as plants such as winterianus and nardus.

A mosquito is an insect in the family Culicidae and consists of over 3,500 species. Most mosquitoes feed on blood and can be significant pests in humans and animals, causing disease and discomfort.

Eliminate standing water, trim back trees and shrubs, and avoid stacking firewood near your home. Termites and mosquitoes thrive in moisture, so eliminating moisture is important to protect your listing. Regular termite inspections also assist with early detection.

Lawn grubs are the larval stages of several beetles (including Japanese and June beetles). They have soft, off-white bodies and a set of legs near their head. They munch their way into grass roots and can cause serious damage. They’re active during the summer and early fall, then go dormant for the winter.

They’re a problem in healthy lawns, but especially so where mowing is inconsistent or the lawn is stressed by heat or low moisture. Preventive products containing imidacloprid, thiamethoxam and clothianidin consistently reduce 75-100% of the grubs. Nematodes are another option, but they require proper handling and can be harmed by residual insecticides in the soil.

In addition to being a major nuisance, rats and mice can chew through roof trusses, rafters, and sheathing. This can create holes that may appear as termite damage but are actually rodent damage.

They are highly adaptable and can thrive in many environments. Like their cousins, they are omnivorous and feed on grain, seeds, fruits, and plants. They reproduce rapidly and have a life span of less than a year. To know more about Termite Control Morayfield, visit the Bug Out Pest Solutions website or call 0426263320.

Mice are curious and will investigate new items in their environment. Rats, on the other hand, are typically more cautious and avoid items they don’t recognize. This can make them more difficult to trap.

#pest control #pest control services #termite control brisbane #bug control services #termite inspection #cockroach control solutions #pest control brisbane #termite control solutions #cockroach termination services #cockroach control solutions in brisbane #pest control redcliffe #pest control redcliffe area #redback pest control redcliffe #power pest control redcliffe #pest control redcliffe qld #Termite control Morayfield #Termite inspection Morayfield

[mclcontracting]

Lawn Love: A Comprehensive Guide to Expert Lawn Care

A well-kept lawn not only enhances the aesthetics of your property but also provides a space for relaxation and enjoyment. 

In this guide, we will walk you through the basics of lawn care Christchurch, weed control and prevention, pest management, seasonal maintenance, troubleshooting common lawn issues, and the equipment and tools you'll need to achieve a lush, green lawn. Let's dive in and get your lawn looking its best!

The Basics of Lawn Care

Expert lawn care christchurch starts with understanding the fundamental principles. Mowing your lawn is one of the most important tasks, and it's crucial to mow at the right height and frequency. The general rule of thumb is to never remove more than one-third of the grass height at a time. This allows the grass to grow stronger and healthier.

Watering your lawn is another crucial aspect of lawn care. It's important to water deeply and infrequently to encourage deep root growth. Avoid frequent shallow watering, as it promotes shallow root growth and makes the grass more susceptible to drought. Additionally, understanding your soil health is essential. Conduct a soil test to determine its pH level and nutrient content. Based on the results, you can fertilize your lawn accordingly to promote healthy growth.

Weed Control and Prevention

Weeds are the unwanted guests in any lawn. They compete with your grass for resources and can quickly take over if left unattended. It's important to identify common weeds in your area and understand their impact on your lawn. There are both chemical and organic methods for weed control. 

Chemical herbicides can be effective but should be used with caution and only as a last resort. Organic methods, such as hand-pulling, mulching, and using natural herbicides, are safer for the environment and can also be effective in controlling weeds. Preventative measures, such as maintaining a thick and healthy lawn, can help minimize future weed growth.

Pest Management

Lawn pests can cause significant damage if not addressed promptly. Common lawn pests include grubs, chinch bugs, and armyworms. It's important to identify the signs of pest infestation, such as brown patches or wilting grass. 

There are safe and efficient ways to manage pests without harming the environment. Natural remedies, such as introducing beneficial insects or using organic pest control products, can be effective in controlling pests. However, in severe cases, professional intervention may be necessary to ensure the health of your lawn.

Seasonal Maintenance

Seasonal maintenance plays a vital role in keeping your lawn in top shape throughout the year. In spring, focus on cleaning up debris, aerating the soil, and applying a balanced fertilizer. Summer requires proper watering techniques to combat heat stress, as well as regular mowing and monitoring for pests. 

Fall is the perfect time for overseeding, fertilizing, and removing fallen leaves. Lastly, winterizing your lawn is essential to protect it from harsh winter conditions. This includes raking leaves, cutting the grass shorter, and applying a winterizing fertilizer.

Troubleshooting Common Lawn Issues

Even with the best garden maintenance practices, lawn issues can still arise. Brown patches, bare spots, and yellowing grass are common problems. These issues can have various causes, such as nutrient deficiencies, compacted soil, or disease. 

To resolve these problems, it's important to identify the underlying cause and take appropriate action. Adjusting watering and fertilization, aerating the soil, and overseeding can help revive your lawn. If you're unsure about the cause or the solution, don't hesitate to seek professional help.

Equipment and Tools

To maintain a healthy lawn, you'll need the right equipment and tools. The essential tools include a lawn mower, a sprinkler or irrigation system, a rake, and a hand trowel for weed removal. The size of your yard and your budget will determine the type of equipment you need. 

Consider investing in quality tools that will last and require minimal maintenance. Regular cleaning and maintenance of your equipment will also help prolong their lifespan.

Conclusion

Congratulations! You've reached the end of our comprehensive guide to expert lawn care. We hope the information provided has empowered you to take action and achieve a lush, green lawn. Remember, proper lawn care requires a combination of knowledge, patience, and consistent effort. 

By following the basics of lawn care Christchurch, taking preventive measures against weeds and pests, performing seasonal maintenance, troubleshooting common issues, and using the right equipment, you'll be well on your way to enjoying a beautiful lawn that enhances the beauty of your property. Happy lawn care!

Source By - https://tinyurl.com/47aheyuw 

#GardenMaintenanceChristchurch #GardenServicesChristchurch #LawnCareChristchurch

[lawndoctorusa]

Common Lawn Problems that affect your lawns Health

It is essential to maintain a healthy, lush lawn in your yard. A backyard is more than a place where you grill; it’s a place where you play with your kids and where family memories are made. The presence of unsightly spots or uneven growth can put an end to a celebration or a relaxing afternoon outside. When you use the right products and follow the right tips, most lawn care Redlands problems can be easily identified and fixed.

Keeping grass healthy and attractive is a challenge for most lawns. Here are some common lawn problems you need to know about:

Crabgrass (Annual)

Everybody hates crabgrass, a grassy weed with an annual life cycle. The grass can grow anywhere and over time will supplant other grasses. Lawns that are compacted and clay soils are ideal for crabgrass. Make sure your soil is aerated. If you fertilize with too much nitrogen, crabgrass will grow. Do not use lawn fertilizers labeled “quick green-up.” Go for a slow-release fertilizer that contains half of its nitrogen.

Dandelion (Perennial)

The flowers on many weeds are quite beautiful, and bees love them. This species of flowering weed is most commonly known as the dandelion. You will have to decide if you choose to grow grasses. It is important to make a decision if you plan to grow grasses. The latter is a true survivalist and perennial, returning and spreading year after year. Grass will not be able to compete with it if it is not healthy.

Ensure the plant is removed completely, roots and all. A dandelion’s life cycle lasts two years. Therefore, you should dig out the basal foliage as soon as they appear in the first year.

Yellow Nutsedge

Due to its irregular shape, a “sedge” is one of the trickier weeds. The stem of the “sedge” is triangular, which can be felt when you rub its base between your fingers. Its stems are more erect, and its green-yellow color is brighter and shinier than lawn grass. You will notice sedge outgrowing your turf when it grows faster than other lawn grasses. There are a lot of underground tubers on yellow nutsedge, but the seeds are golden.

When the sedge is young in the spring, it is best to pull it out. When it comes to broadleaf weeds, do not wait until fall to control them.

Compacted Soil and Improper Aeration

A lot of clay and compacted soil encourage weed growth. Every other year, rent an aerator and run it over the grass to provide the grassroots with air and water circulation. To reduce compaction, the process of Aerification involves removing small columns of soil. To make more holes per square foot, you want a Lawn Care Redlands Aerifier with tines that penetrate 2 to 3 inches into the soil. Also, you want an Aerifier with reciprocating arms.

A “plug” machine extracts chunks of soil from your lawn and re-disperses them on it to improve lawn health and prevent fungal diseases.

Moles

The roots of plants are damaged when moles leave ridges on the lawn. Mole diets include grubs, but eliminating them does not necessarily eliminate moles.

Habitat modification is not an effective solution to mole problems. In order to get rid of moles in the lawn humanely and effectively, traps are the only effective solution. It is still possible for other moles to enter your yard even then. It is also possible to use baits to discourage mole runs, but you should avoid this option. You can also place ultrasonic devices near the runs or use noisemakers like spinning daisies.

Thatch and Brown Patches

Brown patches on a lawn indicate a pH imbalance due to the accumulation of dead and decaying vegetation thatch. Walking across the lawn may give you a “spongy” feeling. Compared to lawns receiving less care, lawns receiving a lot of maintenance are more likely to have thatch.

Lawns treated with chemicals prior to thatch formation have lost the grass’s natural ability to decay. In contrast, wet thatch invites fungal diseases due to its ability to repel water.

White Grubs and Insects

White grubs, which are the immature stages of Japanese beetles and chafer beetles, might be the cause of your lawn turning brown in early fall.

There are a number of nonpoisonous Lawn Care Redlands methods for controlling grubs that can cause lawns to turn yellow and die. Taking up dead grass and looking for grubs will prove very easy.

#Lawn Care Redlands

[naturepest]

[toddstreeservices]

How to Control Wood-Boring Insects in Marietta Georgia Trees

Prevent your trees from rapid decline and death when wood-boring insects attack. Knowing how to control wood-boring insects will help you keep your Marietta, Georgia, trees healthy and thriving.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered wood-boring insect species, identification, and control information to help you keep your Marietta, Georgia, trees safe.

Wood-Boring Insects

Wood-boring insects include a range of arthropods that cause damage to trees and wooden structures. This group of insects features an array of insect species at different life cycle stages (from larvae to adults). Wood-boring insects are seen as pests due to the potentially severe damage they cause in urban and rural areas.

Wood-Boring Insect Control

Systemic insecticides applied via trunk injection, bark sprays, or as a soil drench are effective against flathead borers and may be the only practical method for treating tall trees. Popular systemic insecticides include:

Bonide Systemic Granules

Mighty Mint Insect and Pest Control

Natria Neem Oil Spray

Tip: Apply a systemic insecticide for trees when it is in the growing season.

Contact pesticides control wood-boring insects when they come in direct contact with the pest. Systemic insecticides are absorbed by and transported through plant tissue. Such products can render some or all of a plant toxic to insects that feed on it. Some common contact insecticides are:

Pyrethroids (bifenthrin and permethrin)

Chlorantraniliprole

Imidacloprid

Dinotefuran

Emamectin benzoate

Azadirachtin

Note: Each state has its own standards regarding pesticide use. Make sure you can legally use a pesticide before applying it to your tree(s).

Tip: Hire a professional tree service to treat your trees and alert regional representatives of any potential widespread infestations.

Wood-Boring Insect Species

Wood or tree borers could be bark beetles, twig pruners, or flat-headed borers, among other species. All boring insects are a hazard to a tree’s health, surrounding structures, and people. Consider the following species information:

1. Bark Beetles (Scolytinae)

Bark beetles tunnel under tree bark, cutting off its supply of food and water needed to survive. Bark beetles can kill a mature tree in two to four weeks during warmer months.

Identification – Bark beetle adults are tiny, cylindrical, hard-bodied insects about the size of a rice grain. Tree Damage – Some trees slowly fade in color from green to brown, while others may die within a few weeks of infestation (these trees may not show signs of chlorosis, fading, or decline for several months. Control Method(s) – If trees are infested, prune and dispose of bark beetle-infested limbs. If the tree’s trunk is extensively infested, the entire tree should be removed.

Note: The only effective treatment for bark beetles is preventative.

Vulnerable Tree Species: Bark beetles are attracted to tree species that are stressed, diseased, or injured.

2. Twig and Branch Pruners (Elaphidionoides and Agrilus species)

This insect is considered a secondary invader of trees in decline. The twig pruner attacks healthy twigs and small branches (the female lays an egg in the bark, and when the eggs hatch, the legless grubs bore into the twig). Mature larvae chew concentric cuts outward in the white wood without chewing through the bark. The infested branch eventually drops to the ground with the larva inside.

Identification – The twig pruner is a slender grayish-yellow, long-horned beetle about 1/2 inch long. Tree Damage – Twig and branch pruner larvae feed beneath the bark, girdling twigs and branches. Control Method(s) – Pick up and destroy any detached twigs. The insect’s life cycle is completed inside these fallen twigs. Eliminating the litter interrupts the twig pruner’s life cycle, so they never have a chance to mature and reproduce.

Vulnerable Tree Species:

Hickory (Carya)

Maple (Acer)

Oak (Quercus)

Pecan (Carya illinoinensis)

Redbud (Cercis canadensis)

Elm (Ulmus)

3. Bronze Birch Borer (Agrilus anxius)

The bronze birch borer is found throughout birch ranges in the US and Canada. It attacks and breeds in birch trees but has been spotted in beech and aspen stands.

Identification – Bronze birch borers are 1/4 to 1/2 inch long, slender, dark iridescent, and bronze colored. Tree Damage – Signs of this insect include off-color and thinning foliage in a birch’s upper canopy, dead branches in the upper crown, and swollen ridges on the tree’s trunk and branches. Control Method(s) – Between May and June, you can spray infested trees with horticultural oil, permethrin, or bendiocarb to kill hatching larvae and adults emerging from the bark and feeding on leaves.

Vulnerable Tree Species:

Paper birch

Yellow birch

Gray birch

Western birch

Water birch

Sweet birch

4. Emerald Ash Borer (Agrilus planipennis) (EAB)

The emerald ash borer (Agrilus planipennis or EAB) is an invasive wood-boring beetle. Despite their color and appearance, these beetles are difficult to spot in the wild!

Identification – Adult EABs are bright, metallic green, with red metallic abdominal segments beneath their wing covers. This beetle is about 1/2 inch long and 1/8 inch wide with a flattened back. Tree Damage – Larvae feed on the inner bark of ash trees from early summer to mid-fall, causing hydraulic failure and death. Infested native ash trees are all susceptible to attack. Control Method(s) – When caught in an infestation’s early stages, emerald ash borer can be controlled by using systemic insecticides that are taken into the tree and move to areas where they can kill adults (leaves) or the flathead borer larvae (cambium).

Vulnerable Tree Species: In North America, all ash tree species can be attacked by EAB.

5. Carpenter Ants (Camponotus)

Carpenter ants get their common name because they excavate decayed wood to build their nests. Their excavation results in smooth tunnels inside wood. Similar to termites, this excavation activity can severely compromise a tree’s structural soundness.

Identification – Carpenter ants are about a half-inch long and completely black with yellowish hairs on the abdomen. Tree Damage – This species does not eat wood; they only tunnel and chew through it to create nests. Typically, these ants burrow into trees already compromised by disease, softening their hardwood and facilitating the insect infestation. Control Method(s) – A soap and water mixture is toxic to carpenter ants. Mix one part dish soap with two parts water in a spray bottle. Spray this mixture on the ants and around their nesting site as needed to kill them and eliminate their pheromone trails. Continue treating problem areas until the ants no longer return.

Vulnerable Tree Species: Any tree species compromised by a fungal infection.

Tip: Some insects are affected and can be contained without toxic checmicals, so read the following to learn how to make homeade bug spray.

Wood-Boring Insects in Marietta, Georgia

In this article, you discovered essential species, identification, and control information on several wood-boring insects adversely affecting Marietta, Georgia’s tree population.

Knowing how to identify wood-boring insects and control them will help you preserve your trees while keeping these insects from spreading unhindered.

Ignoring the need to control wood-boring insects can lead to the rapid decline and death of trees, potentially causing catastrophic damage when they topple.

Sources: entomology.ca.uky.edu/ent43 xerces.org/systemic-insecticides-reference-and-overview extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/insects/insecticides-used-to-control-emerald-ash-borer-on-residential-shade-trees-5-626/ emeraldashborer.info/faq.php content.ces.ncsu.edu/twig-pruner readyforwildfire.org/forest-health/bark-beetle-information/about-bark-beetles/

Todd’s Marietta Tree Services

Marietta, GA [phone]

For the original version of this article visit: http://www.toddsmariettatreeservices.com/how-to-control-wood-boring-insects-in-marietta-georgia-trees/

#Wood Boring Insects #Emergency Tree Removal Marietta Ga #Tree Cutting Services Marietta Ga #Tree Boring Insects

[creative-de-stuck-tion]

Introduction

TW: dystopia, mutilation, child death.

The burning sun, the moons of pink and green, and below them the nations of Prospit and Derse; great masses of land, gold and purple, twisted teardrops hooked one to the other and separated by the narrowest of ocean channels and millennia of war. The tempests rage along the coasts, and the clouds and the lands turn in their endless dancing spirals.

Noontide City, in sandstone and clay of yellow and white, simple and smooth in shape, decorated more than enough by the blossoming vines crawling up every wall. The roads are beaten earth, sprouting more grass every day, turning yellow in the baking sun. The people, dressed in airy cotton, smile and laugh as they go about their work, as merry as the day is long - and oh, the days in Prospit are long and long indeed.

Midnight City, in basalt and agate of purple and black, not a leaf to be seen, ornately carved and trimmed in amethyst and jet. The roads are paved and polished, tidy slabs scrubbed clean. The people, wrapped in warming furs, diligently focus on their work, their stares intense, their eyes and thoughts only on what they do, that they might do it well and finish it before the long nights come.

Watch them. You can see it...

Prospit bustles most in the night. The sun beats down so hard a being will crumble under its weight, and the clouds provide not half enough cover; under direct light at noon, bare skin will blister, then boil away. All that can take the sun is the plant life and the already dead, and in the heat and damp they grow and grow. Everyone sleeps with windows tightly covered by layers of cloth nailed to the frames, no matter the heat. In the worst times, with a summer rain, green growth cut back to ground can creep in through cracks and fill a cottage overday, or fungal spores can form wet festering growth on every piece of bare wood, and that would be a mercy for then the kingdom's many predators would be slowed down on their way in. 

Derse stirs most in the day. The ever-thickening layer of smoggy cloud blocks the sun, leaves the inhabitants sickly-skinned. The winds blow cold, and even the rain is salt and soot and acid. The soil is volcanic, but near-useless. It once was fertile, as the great coal and oil deposits show, but not for many centuries has the land birthed much more than stone. The people scratch out a living from scrubby plants in stony soil, and gather closely together in their homes for warmth, burning dried dung in place of wood. Predators roam here too. The people, desperate, eat them, and wear their skins, and block the cracks in their walls with their fur, to keep the whispering of what else lurks in the night away.

Reach out. You can feel it...

The last child of the last jadeblood line in Midnight City lies awake and listens to her mother weep. No one else born to the task is left to nurse the city's Mother Grub with them. Carapace pawns do what they can, but they are created fully-formed; they have no natural urge for childcare, no in-built knowledge of the task. The Grub lays fewer and fewer eggs, smaller ones, and the drones grow more aggressive. Out in the countryside, the Mother Grubs are dying one by one. Trolls are the warriors of Skaia. With so few born, what will they do? She dreams of Prospit outbreeding them, the city overrun.

At dusk the jadeblood grubherds of Noontide City urge their charges out in a flood that packs the streets from side to side. The grass has grown through the trodden earth since yesternight, watered by the humid air, and the grubs mow it down to nothing. They suck dew from stones and moss from walls, and gobble down the foot-long worms and slugs and centipedes and the fist-sized spiders and the nests of rats and mice from every crack and crevice. They swarm the bigger beasts, stray cats and dogs with festering wounds, and in turn the beasts devour or kill many of them. The grubs turn on their own wounded brethren, or those addled by the toxic weeds and mushrooms they have found, and consume them too. The grubherds let it happen. The weakest ones die first. The runts and mutants have already been culled long before.

Breathe deep. You can smell it...

Outside the city walls of Noontide lie the fire trenches, ever burning, making the daytime all the hotter. Rotting and dampening wood is culled without mercy from the buildings every day, and dragged out here. So too come funeral processions, the bodies burned in colossal metal dishes over the flames to save the ashes. The workers wear masks; in Prospit, spore and virus alike can spread so fast and hard even the fires can't cleanse them all, and disease dances on the air with the soot. The filthy, smoking clouds pour upward, and the prevailing winds carry them over the Skaia Channel to Derse, as if the kingdom spits on its ancient enemy. Still, Derse's clouds could hardly be filthier already.

Outside the city walls of Midnight, every spot of land which can be made to grow something will be made to grow. Fields are dug and dug, stone battered into soil by force of the workers' will. In Derse, there are no funeral processions, except for those of the very highest ranks. Even they will be buried in earth beneath the stunted fruit trees and the grass grown as green as it gets over them. Once there were tombs, but no longer can bodies be wasted outside the hungry soil. Near everything that grows in Derse grows on a grave. The poorest's dead don't even make it that far. Hunger gnaws, and the cold keeps them from rotting long enough.

Swallow. You can taste it...

The river of Noontide rots within its banks, and stinks from miles away. Recently, sewers have been installed, magic and engineering combined to keep them sound, channeling out on the seaward side; it's not enough. Fertile loam clouds the water from its very source, and the plants within it feed and grow. The creatures which feed on the plants grow too, until the river chokes with bodies or with algae. Workers clear the scum, but not as fast as it can grow. So much life births and shits and fucks and dies in the river that they'll never get it clean.

The river of Midnight is cold enough to burn, and black as death. Nothing lives in it; all that moves in it are reflections in its oil-slick top. Soot and sludge and who-knows-what taint it all throughout its course as it passes mines and factories, and by the time it reaches the coastal city nothing that lived or died in it is left. The dead things might rot further up, or wash downstream perfectly preserved by the chemical taint, as if in resin. It smells faintly sweet and smokey, pleasant even, of coal and gasoline.

Listen. You can hear it...

The market's bustle is pierced by wails. A brownblood youth has fallen to his knees, sobbing his heart out, from fear or exhaustion or some deep sorrow; none around him will ever know why. There is no shortage of reasons, in Noontide City. The crowd ignores him. If he had a moirail, it would be their duty to stop the disturbance. He does not, or they are not here. The carapace peace officers are, and he is restrained, though now he wails even louder. Too late to run. Causing a disturbance through rejection of Mirth. The law is the law. The carapaces' tealblood master takes a short knife and slits the brownblood's cheeks from ear to ear.

Coins clatter on stone, drowned out by shrieks. A corner of the Midnight City town square is roped off; highbloods in their carriages and litters watch the show. In the arena, troll and human children in rags claw and bite for pennies thrown at them hard enough to bruise their bony bodies, and bets of more money than the children will ever see changes hands in wagers. Today, for the first time in many months, a human is triumphant. She's a rangy little thing, maybe ten years old, hollow-eyed and wielding bottle shards, and she's the last one standing while others groan and bleed. She picks up all the coins and limps away. She will die tonight, slowly and agonisingly and alone; her last troll opponent was old enough for her venom to come through in her bite, and it already burns within the human's blood. The surviving children will take her coins and her clothes and the trolls will devour her, bones and all. The humans cannot eat the venom. They hunger still.

Listen. Closer. You can hear them...

And the screams sound exactly the same.

#homestuck #kingdomstuck #fantasystuck #lore #prospit #derse #horrorstuck #story

[evolutionsvoid]

When it comes to different classes of magic, their image and reputation is almost more widely known then their actual abilities. The common layperson may not know the true extent of a pyromancer's skills, but they will confidently say that they are hotheaded individuals with a passion for arson. It often does not matter what these magic users can bring to the table, as the public image of their group easily glosses over these benefits. A necromancer may be able to summon the spirits of murdered victims to help track down a vicious killer, but such details will not save them from being run out of every town they visit. These views are not exclusive to human magic, as other races deal with the same exact phenomenon. In dryad society, the art of Lichenmorphy took a huge hit after the reign of the Yellow Queen. The cruelties and deaths that came from her magic caused many dryads to fear this art and wonder if another would take her place. In time, however, these views came to pass, but not all magic classes are so lucky. While the Lichenmorphists regrew in popularity, the Gall Hags have yet to see such a bounce back, and many believe they never will. While the title of "Gall Hag" is widely used amongst all species, it is not the true name of this magic class. The actual name of these magic users is "Entomatr," a more fitting and dignifying title than the one the public has given them. Though Entomatres fight to have this name used more commonly, the masses have, unfortunately, made up their minds. The powers of the Gall Hags come mainly from insects, though their art can delve into other small organisms. They utilize something they call "Swarm Magic" to communicate and control a multitude of bugs. This is achieved through magically altered chemicals and pheromones that their bodies create and release, using them to guide these insects with surprising precision. Despite their ease in summoning swarms on command, these acts are not created on the spot. Gall Hags can only control insects or other organisms that they have studied and attuned themselves to. They must encounter these creatures and become knowledgeable in every aspect of them. To do this, it requires a long time of observing, which can include touching, smelling and occasionally tasting. It is not uncommon to see a Gall Hag toss a new bug species into their mouth for a quick taste, releasing it unharmed after they have gotten "all the flavors figured out." This intensive study is necessary, as it is how they adapt their magic to best communicate with the particular species. How long these study sessions last and how efficient they are depends upon the expertise of the Gall Hag. Beginners to the craft will spend days learning the ins and outs of one specific species, while an expert can inspect one specimen for a few minutes and then fluently communicate with that species and others that are closely related to it. Though their ability to summon and control swarms of insects is impressive, it is not the only thing Gall Hags are famous for. The way they incorporate their art into their bodies is astonishing to some and utterly repulsive to quite a few more. Since their magic relies on knowledge of specific insects and a healthy population to control, these magic users have decided that the most efficient way to keep these things handy is to carry them on their own person. They willingly allow their bodies to become hives and nests for a multitude of species, as it keeps their attunement strong and their companions close at hand. Through both the efforts of their guests and their magic, they shape their bodies to best host these colonies. Flesh is expanded and hardened, cysts are formed and many other bodily functions are altered to insure that the newcomers have the best setup while minimizing the harm that comes to the willing host. As their career in this art continues and their powers grow, it soon gets hard to tell the dryad from the hive, as they have allowed their bodies to be fully consumed by the multitude of minions. Newcomers to the art will often carry their own insects in bottles, pouches or travel-sized hives, but "true" practitioners of this magic scoff at this half-hearted devotion and claim that infestation is the only way to truly understand. Though the sight of a full-fledged Gall Hag may be unsettling to quite a few dryads, it is a process that is painless and also beneficial in some regards. With a living hive built into their flesh, Gall Hags can summon helpers in an instant and will rarely be caught unarmed. With them becoming one with these colonies, these bugs can now serve as their eyes and ears, giving them the ability to perceive everything around them and making ambush nearly impossible. With the more bugs that live in their body, the less the dryad has to rely on orally consuming nutrients, as their body can nourish itself on food the hives gather themselves, the carcasses of fallen brethren and the waste their insects may defecate. These colonies can also serve as personal defense against both outside attackers and internal health issues. Diseases, parasites and unwanted infections can be warded off by the help of these insects, and they can alert their host if something is amiss. Though gnarled and feeble looking, Gall Hags can live longer than their fellow sisters, though some may wonder if it is worth it for such a cost.  

With swarms at their side and in their bodies, the abilities of the Gall Hags are quite interesting. The most obvious use of this power is to summon legions of biting and stinging insects to scare off foes, but its uses do not stop there. Attuned to their fellow brethren, they can send individuals out to scout the area or spy on foes, giving them crucial information with hardly any worry of detection. Others rarely think twice about the annoying fly or the cluster of pestering gnats, unaware that these could be listening in to their conversations and plans. Even non-violent insects can be of use, as a swarm of locusts against a field of crops can diminish the resources of a settlement, causing long-lasting damage throughout a siege or invasion. While Gall Hags have their powers focused on insects and other creepy crawlies, they are able to use them to take advantage of other vectors. Such creatures are capable of carrying diseases and fungus, and the Gall Hags take full advantage of such a thing. Spreading plague through a populace or wilt through a farm field is possible, all they need are the right bugs and the right materials. This is also why Gall Hags tend to have fungal infections on their bodies, as this is another welcome invader that they have wrangled with the help of their insect roommates. By carrying a multitude of species in their bodies, the possibilities can be endless. The discovery of a new species is monumental to a Gall Hag, and they will be quick to incorporate it into their bodies once they find a use for them.     Though the list of powers mentioned above focus upon war and sabotage, the role of the Gall Hags are often not meant for violence. It is believed that these magic users first came to be for helping purposes, only incorporated into combat once their potential was realized. In a dryad settlement, a Gall Hag can bring many benefits. Their knowledge can be used to combat disease and parasites that may plague their sisters, and carrying the right predator species can help devour pests that attack homes and crops. At times these magic users were called "Blight Eaters" as they often found that the best way to rid another dryad of fungus or parasite is presenting themselves as a better option. One could watch as the infection or infestation literally crawled out of their bodies and attached itself to the Gall Hag instead. Though they now carried this sickness, their bodies were quite capable of containing it or taming it when needed. Studies and experiments with specific insects also allows Gall Hags to breed and design their own species, creating a whole variety of new helpers. They can make new pollinators for a failing crop, harmless burrowers to check on the health of trees and dryads alike, fast fliers for speedy messages and observation, rapid growing grubs for a new, quick food source and much more. For anyone in need, the local Gall Hag can provide, and many towns can benefit from their abilities. Despite this, one will rarely find one of these magic users in the settlement. Instead you will have to seek them out in the wilds, where they live as hermits. Turns out that while folk love the bounty Gall Hags can create, very rarely does anyone actually want to see them. 

Non-dryads tend to describe the Gall Hags as "dryad witches," or "the witchcraft of dryad magic." These comparisons, however, are quite faulty, as the magic class of witchcraft is not contained to only humans. Due to witches drawing their powers and spells from potions and brews instead of internal energy, any individual of any race is capable of becoming a witch. Even then, the Venoness are a more fitting comparison, as they use concoctions and toxic brews to fuel their own magic, much like a witch. Though technically a false statement, there is a reason behind the comparison. The similarities are not between their magic abilities, but instead are between the reputations and stigmas both classes are given. Though Gall Hags can use their powers to heal and help, many dryads are terrified and disgusted by these magic users. The sight of them alone is repulsive to many, and the idea of having insects burrow through one's flesh is horrifying. Since they tend to carry a multitude of pests, parasites and diseases in their bodies, many settlements view them as walking plagues. If a Gall Hag is nearby and a business is suddenly besieged by flies and roaches, the blame is quick to fall on the traveling hive. Any sudden bouts of sickness and infestation will result in the local Gall Hag being immediately accused, and healing this will rarely mitigate the damage. Due to their infested bodies, Gall Hags are often banned from the sacred burial groves. They cannot visit these places or be buried there, in fear of their nasty collection getting out and infesting the area. Some places may allow one to be buried there if they agree for their bodies to be dipped in a powerful poison to kill off these internal insects prior to burial, but most Gall Hags view this concept as the ultimate betrayal. They would rather let their carcass fall on the barren rock than murder their friends in such a heartless fashion. Due to this treatment, many Gall hags are recluses who prefer to be alone with their insect friends. A nice little home out in the middle of nowhere is just fine for them, as long as there are plenty of bugs around. Some may be nomadic, traveling from place to place in order to find work and new species to study. The deeper they delve into this art, the more they fall away from socializing with others. Be it dryads or non-dryads, they don't find much interest in them, as they are noisy, whiny and quite judgmental. Talk with a Gall Hag and you will find them to be quite distracted during the conversation, often talking aloud to somebody else or busy checking on the status of their numerous colonies. Those who disrespects their hives or kills insects in their company will quickly earn their ire, resulting in you getting thrown out or attacked by a furious swarm. Most of the time it is best to leave a note at the door if you desire their help, as the Gall Hag will probably appreciate not being bothered. They will help if you can pay or provide suitable compensation, just keep the useless conversation to a minimum and don't stress out their hives. Though a good chunk of Gall Hags can be shy and reclusive, there are those out there who have used their art for darker purposes. Though few in number, their atrocities are one of the stronger reasons why dryads fear the Gall Hags. It is the same story for the witches, as their healing and aid is overshadowed by those who have grown vengeful and cruel. The same abilities that can pull disease from one's body and provide food for many can also be used for horrific things. Tales of voracious black rot, limb-eating termites, mind-controlling wasps, lobotomizing weevils and disfiguring beetles can be found in tomes of the past, stories of fiction and minds of the paranoid. Which of these tales are fact or fiction is unknown, but very few wish to find out. Rumors and scary stories of twisted Gall Hags can be found in many villages, often whispered in the dark. Some claim that there are wealthy Floral Dryad families who have Gall Hags in their employ. They use these infested creatures to spy on other families, sabotage competitors, keep themselves youthful and occasionally carve out the pesky thinky parts of their servants and prisoners to make them more obedient. Gall Hags often show up in spooky tales for saplings, used like an evil witch to prey upon the naughty and misbehaving. Those that turn vicious may target dryad, human or anyone that angers them. Why this happens is always up to debate, and many never know even after the wretched creature is burned to ash. Some claim it is the bugs devouring their brain and driving them mad, while others suggest that they grow so fond of their colonies that they cease to view dryads and others as equals. Perhaps the hate and fear they face everyday may have caused them to snap, but such an idea is often hushed. No one ever wants to take credit for making the monsters that haunt their nightmares. ----------------------------------------------------------- Man, I am posting a lot of green stuff as of recently. I got to add some new colors to some of these things! Also, here is another dryad magic class! This is probably an icky one for a lot of folk, but it was an idea I couldn't pass up!

#hive #infestation #insect #bug #insects #bugs #dryad #plant monster #art #drawing #monster #creature #tw trypophobia #tw insects #tw bugs #gall

[ask-them-bois]

Seadweller headcanons

okay shut up here we go

it’s my headcanon that seadwellers, no matter the bloodcolor, can be divided by biomes, which can also be broke down into two catagories: Freshwater and Saltwater. Regardless, they’re all call ‘seadwellers’, even if they are in freshwater, as it seems to be the umbrella term for trolls with fins and gills.

Saltwater seadwellers can be broken down into dwellers such as: Shallow, Coral/Reef, Deep, Abyssal, Kelp, and Frozen

While Freshwater seadwellers are categorized as: Lake, River, Pond, and Swamp.

Now, there can be overlap, such as seadwellers who hang out in brackish water- where saltwater and fresh water mix. The biggest difference in all of the minor categories are physical and mental attributes. But first, some overall headcanons:

All seadwellers must be hatched in special brooding caverns, either ones that are underwater (usually operated by deep and abyssal dwellers), or ones that house vats of water in which the eggs can nest. (jades usually operate these, but coral and shallows may lend a hand in tending to the more difficult hatchlings)

Once hatched, they must stay in the water until pupated from grubs to wrigglers (toddlers?) or else their gills won’t develop right. Some may choose to stay in the water a little longer, too, but over-shooting the time may make it difficult to adjust to breathing air. Underwater cavern-born dwellers have the most difficulty. They must get to the surface immediately, or the transition will be extremely difficult. (See: Abyssal dwellers)

Fresh dwellers are less likely to have bioluminescent marks, but can still develop natural patterns for camouflage.

Diets can vary for each individual, but most must rely on what they have in their immediate biomes. (e.g, swamp dwellers feast on ducks and frogs, while abyssals must rely on dead fall)

Most- if not all- seadwellers have a natural ability to use echo-location, though it is most found in saltwater dwellers. There are many sub-languages for seadwellers. (e.g, they can use bioluminescent marks to communicate, but there is a disconnect between salt’s and fresh’s uses. What flashes mean ‘apple’ for salts may mean ‘pinecone’ for freshies) There’s also instances of Deep and Abyssals learning languages all their own, similar to Morse code (see: Ashhur. He communicates in clicks and hums) Salts also have their own language that is mostly lost, which most call the Language of the Sea. (See: Ruthless used the LotS to speak with the leviathan)

While it is most common in fresh dwellers, some salt dwellers have been recorded to be cannibalistic. It’s more common among freshies, due to the lack of available territory and prey.

All seadwellers possess the ability to reproduce via eggs; a leftover trait from before the mother grub. (Some landdwellers are known to randomly have this ability, too.)

Now then, let’s break down the categories:

Saltdwellers:

Shallow: Rufuss is my shallow dweller. He’s built for the cold temperatures and strong currents, with his extra fat and stocky body. He cannot go into deep waters, as the pressure can leave physical bruises on his thick form. He’s built to withstand currents, not move with them, so that he can’t be sucked out to sea by the undertow. His stockiness and weight are a shared trait with all other shallow dwellers. Shallows are also the ones who find it easiest to move about on land, though the water is always a relief when it holds up their weight.

Coral/Reef: Makeno is a reef dweller. His slim but muscular form gives him the ability to weave through coral and plants with ease. Most reef dwellers would be built the same way. Part of Makeno’s physicality are his freckles. They’re near invisible to the naked eye, unless he’s in the water, where upon they will light up and begin to glow. Biologically, these can be used to communicate, attract prey, or attract mates, but they also can attract predators. Fortunately, these bioluminescent marks don’t show up until a troll is pupated, and the light gets stronger with age. Corals find it easy to transition to the land, too, but if they leave too early it can cause problems with theirs gills, like Makeno’s. (he cannot be around smokes from cigarettes or incense. Cooking smoke is fine purely from immunity build up)

Deep: Deep dwellers are lithe, thin trolls, who’s skin is often much darker than others. They’re more likely to have natural patterns (i.e noticeable stripes, spots or vitiligo) which will most likely also be luminescent marks. They’re also more prone to mutations such as extra fins, or even tails. These trolls find it hard to transition onto land. Not to say that they can’t, but they always feel just a little off, and will often times try to use their gills in moments of panic. 

Abyssal: Ashhur is an abyssal dweller. He’s categorized by soft, supple skin, extremely heightened senses, dark skin, mutations like extra fins and eyes, and an adaptation to extremely hot temperatures. Abyssals are rare- or at least, are assumed to be rare- because their overload of mutations means they must keep hidden. Even violets and fuchsia abyssals must keep a low profile. On top of Ashhur’s own mutations, there can be a mix-match of many other mutations like tails, markings, even extra limbs or- in extremely rare cases- mermaid-like tails. Abyssal’s soft skin, like the blobfish or deep jellies, looks and feels normal under their natural pressures. Out of water, it feels extremely smooth and silky, but can be bruised or cut very easily. Speaking of out of water, abyssals find it the hardest to breathe air, and often feel like their mildly choking when they’re on land.

The heightened senses can be extended to all five senses, but can also sometimes lack in areas. Ashhur is (un)fortunate enough that all his senses are maxed out, which leads to sensory overload more often than not. Abyssals are also prone to Deep Sea Gigantism- when a specimen’s body grows very large, due to the amount of free space they have. Survivor is an example of this, as he is over 24 feet tall. But he’s so heavy that he cannot leave the water, lest his own weight crush him. Ashhur, who is still very young, has yet to grow to such extremes, while his ancestor is over a thousand years old.

Kelp: Kelps are categorized by tough, leathery skin, poor vision, small statures, and tinted skin. Kelps are also the ones who are most likely to be lowbloods, like yellows and olives. Yellow/green colored skin helps blend them in to the kelp forests. However, if they’re found by higher bloods, they’re culled on sight. As such, kelps make up less than 3% of the seadweller population. Their tough skin keeps them safe from the serrated, rough fronds of the kelp and seaweed they bed in. Poor vision is a drawback, but it’s made up for by their extra hearing. Their small statures are a benefit when it comes to hiding, and are skilled in quick strikes when taking down prey.

Frozen: Frozens thrive in extremely cold temperatures, and could faint or grow ill in warm ones. They also have very pale skin- they’re even most likely to be albino. Frozens are often very heavy-set, with extra fat or muscle, and have very low metabolisms, as they have the most trouble finding food. They’re also surprisingly low on the list of most likely to have mutations, but highly likely to be bluebloods or have paler shades of violet and fuchsia.

Freshdwellers:

Lake: Lake dwellers are considered with near cryptid status. Not just due to rarity, but due to their bizarre appearances. Lakes commonly have skin that doesn’t match their bloodcolor, and often matches the colors of their lake. They’re also known to have stringy, seaweed-like hair that almost seems alive in the water, and slit-like nostrils. They’re also among the most territorial. Some allow boating, fishing, and swimming in their waters, but if one litters or disrespects their ecosystem by over-fishing, then that troll may come up missing, their drowned body found later. Or never at all, as Lakes are prone to cannibalize trespassers.

River: River dwellers are often considered the most beautiful. They often have pale, smooth skin, and patterns similar to that of a koi. Rivers are known to have a mild mutation of fish-like scales on their shoulders, brows, forearms, and thighs. Much of the riverdweller population are born mute. It is unclear why this, but it’s theorized it’s an unfortunate trait due to living in such shallow waters; as such, their vocal ability was given up in favor of the easy ability to breathe air, giving up their vocal cords in exchange for properly functioning lungs.

Pond: Pond dwellers are often just young lake dwellers, who later move to lakes when they require bigger territories. If they do choose to stay with their ponds, its unfortunately very easy for them to starve, be picked off by large predators like big cats or bears, or get diseases from mosquitoes and ticks. If they manage to survive all that and get old enough,they’ll most likely move to cities or other places. Ponds get pretty small, after all.

Swamp: Swamp dwellers are among the most savage dwellers. They have to deal with alligators, snakes, big cats, predator birds, and more. Their mutations can be quite unique, with some even recorded to posses venom or poisonous claws. Webbed fingers and toes are common, to help move quickly through the water. Their gills are not well developed, either, as swamps are known to have low oxygen levels in their water. Instead, much like a whale or alligator, swamp dwellers can hold their breath for greatly extended periods of time. Swamps are also very foresty, so swamp dwellers have adapted to moving through the roots by having quick reflexes and lithe movements.

Wow these are long and rambly, but I hope yall like ‘em! These are just my headcanons of course, and if you have any questions I’m happy to answer them! Feel free to use them for your own characters if you like them, I don’t mind.

#ooc #ooc post #long post #very long post #worldbuilding #headcanons #seadwellers #seadweller headcanons #headcanon rambles

[realityhelixcreates]

Beta, Theta, and Me

Chapters: 4/? Fandom: Thor (Movies), Avengers (Movies) Marvel Cinematic Universe Rating: PG Warnings:  Relationships: Loki x Reader (But not right now) Characters: Loki(Marvel) Additional Tags:  A/B/O, Sorta, More Of An Exploration Of Life And Self Expression Within An A/B/O Framework, Loki Does What He Wants, But Loki Does Not Actually Do What He Wants, Antagonistic Bosses, Loki Has A Throne Now, But It’s Not What He Wanted

Summary:  Loki puts you to work immediately, but some of his idea of what 'work' is seems strange. 

Lunch was made nervously: it had been some time since you last had the opportunity to actually cook something on a stove, with dishes, and ingredients you had to prepare yourself. Spaghetti, you decided, was the best way to go. You knew how to make it all in one pot, which had always saved you time on dishes.

Loki didn't speak a word to you while you worked, just staring out the windows in contemplation. The view from here was oriented to the back of the building, where the fire escape was, and the dumpsters just across the street. He probably couldn't see them from this far off the ground, but you wondered if Stark hadn't put him here on purpose, as a mild insult.

It was strange to think you'd spent the last week sleeping on that fire escape, so far below him.

When you brought the meal to him, he gazed at it, unimpressed, and made no move to eat it.

“This looks incredibly messy.” He said. You should have known a prince would be prim about food. “You will have to help me eat it.”

“What?” You asked. Surely he wasn't that prim!

“I am not at present easily able to lean forward.” He explained. “I will need you to feed this to me. Do not make me repeat myself.” He added, at your hesitation. “I will need much from you that your unrefined living has apparently made you unready for. Do not sit there thinking up a sonnet about it, just do it!”

You hurriedly scooted a chair over next to him, spinning noodles into a little ball on the fork, and holding it out for him. It gave you the weird feeling of feeding a giant baby bird; you needed to get the food directly into his mouth, but you couldn't just jab, or shove.

“It is passable.” He declared after the first bite. “Just make sure not to get any of that sauce on me. Now, where is your portion?”

“Mine?” Though your stomach had been growling wildly, and your mouth watering the entire time, you hadn't cooked more than one portion. You'd still been in the headspace that told you to wait until it was safe to steal from the trash.

“I didn't know I was supposed to cook anything for me. I thought it was just supposed to be for you.” You said honestly. If you'd known, you definitely would have made a big meal for yourself.

Loki breathed a sigh. “ I suppose there is no help for it then. What use is a servant who collapses from hunger? You must take a bite yourself, after each one you give me.”

“What?” You repeated.

“Do you not hear me, or are you just that dull?” Loki asked.

“No, it's just...I've never done anything like this before.”

“Oh, I know.” Loki said. “Assigning me an incompetent servant is just one of Starks many little insults to me.”

“Sorry.” You mumbled.

“All part of the game, my dear. Stark is a fool if he thinks I cannot spin gold from dross. Now take your bite.”

You swirled a few noodles onto the fork.

“Is this sanitary?” You wondered aloud.

“Given that you came to me filthy and stinking, and I've seen you grubbing around in the garbage down there, I shouldn't have thought that would be an issue with you.”

You jerked back. He knew?

“My eyes are much better than yours. Than any humans. Even in twilight, I could see you. Oh, but humans really are a pathetic race; abandoning their own to the point that some of you apparently go feral.”

“Now that's not-”

“Not true? No? Tell me then, why are your greatest examples of so-called civilization filled with homeless, and poor, and dying? Your most advanced spaces overflowing with suffering? Your loftiest monuments to your own achievements tower over the corpses of those who were crushed in order to build them. I meant to usher in a true golden age, unlike anything humanity had ever experienced! Peace, prosperity, unity, all of the things you cannot seem to find for yourselves.”

“How many corpses for your monument?” You asked. He scowled.

“Eat the food.” He commanded. “I do not carry any diseases, and I do not fear yours.”

Huffily, you took your bite. It wasn't half bad. Could have been better, if you weren't so out of practice.

“Good girl. And now mine.”

Back and forth you went, turning a simple lunch into something uncomfortably intimate. He watched you like a predator, and you tried to distract yourself with what your paycheck would get you. Fingernail clippers. A toothbrush. Socks.

There were so many things, big and little, that you needed in order to get established.

“Are you lost, feral thing?” Loki asked, jerking you out of your thoughts. “I will be leaving the dishes to you, for obvious reasons.”

“Oh. Yeah, right. Lemmie just take care of that.”

Meal finished, you hurried to the little kitchen to do the washing up. It had been a good idea to limit the amount of dishes you'd used, because soon enough he had you out on the floor, sweeping. And then up a ladder, cleaning the windows. And then dusting. And then beating the rugs out on the balcony. And then sweeping the balcony. And, of course, cleaning the bathroom, which barely looked used.

What, did alien lordships not need to shit?

There was a separate room, which housed an actual bathtub, a huge round thing that was clearly meant to hold more than one person. You cleaned it too, though, from the thin layer of dust, it seemed that it hadn't been used either. Also in the room was a small, wooden closet, that you finally identified as a sauna, which you also cleaned.

He practically had you scrubbing the walls, before suppertime finally rolled around.

“Cook enough for yourself this time as well.” He said. “Then you may take time to yourself for the evening, though I will have one last task for you, just before I retire.”

You opted for chicken fingers and french fries, finding them both in the freezer, ready to prepare.

Loki was very unimpressed, though whether it was by the humble nature of the food, or the very concept of dipping sauces, you weren't sure. He seemed especially outraged by barbecue sauce.

“Humans have no refinement!” He complained. “A riot in the streets or a riot on the tongue, it matters not, as long as you can somehow lose yourselves in something!”

Apparently ketchup was exactly as offensive.

After dinner, you washed the dishes, then went to your apartment and lay down on the floor, in the place you intended to put your future bed. You didn't really have anything to occupy your time, so you lay there, eyes closed, waiting for dinner to digest.

You were startled awake by the sound of Loki's voice right by your ear, calling your name. You must have inadvertently dozed off. You hurried out of your apartment and into the penthouse in order to find him.

He was positioned next to a big fireplace that was decorated like something out of a fancy mountain lodge. All that was missing was a bearskin rug, and an animal head mounted above the mantel.

Loki was reading a book in a language you couldn't quite make out, and he didn't bother looking up as you approached.

“Uh, you called?”

“You heard. Good, you can hear me. Yes, there is one last task I need to to perform this evening. I need you to go into my room, remove your uniform, and lay down in my bed. Then-”

“Gonna have to stop you right there, champ!” You exclaimed. “Absolutely not! Not happening. I don't care what you say, that's not part of the job! That's never going to be part of the job, and honestly? Fuck you for thinking you can just take whatever you want from me! Did you treat your old Asgardian servants this way? Disgusting! Hey...are you laughing or choking?”

He was laughing, though it clearly pained him. You glared.

“Are you done?” He asked, once he'd gotten control of himself. “If so, then I ask that you look at me and apply a little critical thinking. Why should I desire a feral dumpster rat? And how, exactly, do you expect me to perform, when I am...like this?” He gestured to the bulky neck brace.

“Well...” That was a good point. “What was all that 'get naked and get in bed' stuff then?”

“I never said naked, I said to remove your uniform first. I want you to warm my bed up before I sleep. Just lay there for about thirty minutes, then dress and leave. It was a perfectly respectable profession on Asgard, usually undertaken by those who, for whatever reason, couldn't do much else. I don't see why it should cause so much fuss here. Do you think yourself above the task?”

“No, I can do it.” You said. “We don't really have a 'bed warmer' job here, though I wouldn't be surprised if the rich were forcing their help into positions like that. But when people tell you to do that kind of thing 'here', it's assumed to lead to other things. The upper classes seem bent on just taking whatever they want from those they have authority over, and you killed a bunch of people and wanted to take over the world. Why should I assume you're any different?”

“Because I do not come from barbarian stock, feral thing. I am the son of kings. Now go lay down. Set a timer. Reflect on how much better a master I am to have than apparently anyone else on this forsaken planet.”

You grumbled a bit, but mostly just to yourself. This had really been a hell of a day.

                                                                        *****

Loki's room was huge, but not as ostentatious as you'd thought it would be. For some reason, you had envisioned gold and jewels on everything, maybe stained glass in the windows, and you were still hung up on the idea of bearskin rugs.

The rugs here were not bears though, but intricately patterned weaves in green, yellow, and black, three colors that dominated the decor. Plush rugs and tapestries that served as curtains, blocking out nearly all outside light. His lordship must like to sleep late.

It was easy to tell what pieces of furniture came from far away Asgard, and what came from down the street Ikea. His desk, his bed, his dresser and the old fashioned chest at the foot of his bed were all heavy, solid, dark wood, with blackened metal, and green leather. The chairs and side table, however, were simple, painted plywood.

To your surprise, there was a collection of weapons scattered across the desk and dresser. There was a sword, carved with a snake, its edges dark with either corrosion or poison, a weighted net, woven with barbs, and a bow as long as you were tall, with a gorgeous leather and velvet quiver filled with black fletched, ebony arrows. And just...so many knives. From the length of your thumb, to the length of your forearm, with straight, curved, angled, and wavy blades.

Loki must not let anyone in here, for all these to still be here. You were pretty sure that if Stark knew, they'd be confiscated.

Damn, you were going to have to decide whether to keep your mouth shut or not, weren't you?

You stripped out of the loaned uniform, and slipped under the thick, velvety blankets. You'd expected that Loki would have a stupidly large bed, the best sheets the softest pillows, but where to lay? You wriggled your way to the center of the spacious bed-honestly, how many people did he expect to fit into this thing? No, maybe you didn't want to know. Royal orgies were...well, you just weren't interested.

How long had it been since you had lain in a real bed? It seemed like decades. Even then, you'd never been in a bed this luxurious. How soft and silky these sheets were! The blankets were like clouds, and the pillowcases-were they made of satin? That must be how he kept those gentle curls. No doubt it was difficult to tend to his hair with that brace on his neck.

The whole room smelled powerfully of Alpha, always just a little too strong for comfort. Maybe you just had too many negative associations with that scent, but it always made you uncomfortable. No matter how much you tried to relax here, it was keeping you on high alert.

Even when he wasn't in the room, he was still dominating. He could barely do anything on his own, but he was still such a commanding presence. Some of that was sheer regal countenance rather than pheromones. That chemical cocktail might have no effect on you, but force of personality did.

Underneath the Alpha scent was another, heavier in the bed than anywhere else. It was him, of course, the scent that would belong to him alone, Alpha or not. This one wasn't so bad. It was softer, a gentle counterpoint to the harsh Alpha smell.

Tomorrow was payday. Maybe you should get a bed? Or at least a nice futon? You should definitely get some towels, so you didn't have to drip dry every time you showered. But first you should pick up your little caches of things from around the city, if any of them were still intact. That would get you some clothes, some toiletries, a sleeping bag, even some books.

You were turning things over in your head, making lists of things to get, and in which order to do so, when you heard Loki's voice call your name again. You sat up straight in his bed, but he was nowhere to be seen.

Put on your uniform and open the door, you heard. It was like he was in the room with you. You scrambled to get dressed. Had thirty minutes already passed? That was another thing you had to do tomorrow-get your phone turned back on. You really needed access to the timer function.

He was right outside the door when you opened it, gazing at you with mild disapproval.

“That took too long.” He complained. “And your hair is a mess.”

“I was just lying down.” You said, raking a hand through your hair. “And if I was already taking too long, stopping to fix my hair would have taken even longer.”

“I don't pay you for sass, girl.” Loki sniffed.

“You don't pay me at all.” You said. “Tony Stark does, to take care of you.”

“Then take care of me. Help me into bed.”

You sensed trickery, but helped him stand anyway. He leaned his weight on you, and your body nearly buckled. Standing, wrapped in a robe, you could tell that he was thin, so how could he possibly weigh so much?

You led him to the side of his spacious bed, where he carefully flopped down and had you pull the blankets up to his shoulders.

“It is still cold.” He complained.

“Uh, well, I was in the middle of the bed.”

Loki frowned. “Pray tell, how did you think I was going to get into the middle of the bed?”

You didn't say anything. You should have thought about that, but you were just so disoriented by this new life you found yourself in.

“You are like a prey animal, just reacting to outside stimuli.” Loki pointed out. “I need you to possess wits. Go now, and find some.”

That was a dismissal, if ever you had heard one. You hurried out of his room and into yours, changed out of the Asgardian work uniform, and into the Stark uniform, then entered the elevator.

Tonight you would gather your things. Tomorrow, your apartment would be that much closer to a home.

#betathetaandme #loki x reader #loki (marvel)

[lawndoctorusa]

Effective Ways To Prevent Lawn Grub

Lawn Grubs are the larvae of beetles that infest the lawn, leading to life-threatening diseases and infestations. The pale white color pests have a C-shape, soft bodies, and legs attached to their heads. Grubs suck essential nutrients and organic matter from the lawn soil, roots, and grass. They feed on particular sections and grow up as adult beetles known as Japanese Beetles, June Bugs, or European Chafers. Hence, grub control is essential to protect lawn growth and health.

Lawn grub treatment stops the lawn from succumbing to early and unexpected death. It saves the lawn from experiencing extensive damage, turf thinning, brown spots, and other repercussions of grub infestations. However, grub infestation is hard to recognize for amateur gardeners, so forget about treating it. If you are not an expert, you may fail to identify its presence on your lawn.

In this blog, you can learn practices to prevent grub occurrence and remedies to eliminate infestation early. We suggest you hire experts for grub control if the infestation has already damaged your lawn or you don’t know how to treat it.

How To Identify The Presence Of Lawn Grub?

Before we proceed with the treatment, you should know how to identify the presence of lawn grub. Inspect your lawn and look for these signs to determine its presence.

Drought-stricken lawn

Grass yellowing

Brown or patchy grass

Presence of moths, beetles, and other pest species

Irregular brown patches

Separated soil and weak roots

Poor grass growth

Use These Effective Tips For Lawn Grub Treatment

If you have recognized the existence of lawn grub, then it’s time to learn lawn grub treatment to repel the infestation. Use these tips while eliminating these invasive creatures from your lawn.

1. Damage Assessment

Soil testing can help you understand how the grubs have infested the lawn and what is the damage stage. Collect a sample of soil and send it to the laboratory for testing. Avoid taking any treatment if reports show five or fewer grubs. Use home remedies and aerate your soil if the number falls between 5 to 10. Take professional help if it is going above 10.

2. Use Beneficial Nematodes

Nematodes are microscopic parasitic worms that have a ferocious appetite for lawn grubs. They invade grubs and release bacteria until they eliminate grubs from the lawn. It is an efficacious remedy, but it may take two to three years to completely drive the infestation away.

You can buy Nematodes from nurseries, catalogs, retail stores selling garden products, and online platforms. Use them as soon as you receive them, otherwise, they may die due to environmental change. Apply Nematodes in the afternoon and avoid excess application.

3. Control Moisture

Lawn grubs require moisture to sustain temperature and thrive in adverse conditions. For grub control, you can avoid irrigation for a certain period and create an artificial drought. A dormant lawn will eliminate eggs and young grubs, mitigating its population.

4. Introduce Milky Spores

Milky Spores is a bacterial disease known for attacking larvae of Japanese Beetles. It is a sustainable and organic option to eliminate the grub population from your lawn. You can easily buy milky spores from the local shop or garden store along with the dispenser for its application. After buying, introduce them to your lawn, and they will attack the grubs.

However, you must apply milky spores at least 2 to 3 times a year to yield positive results. After 3 to 4 years, you can stop applying them. They will act as natural grub controllers for 15 to 20 years. During the application, pay attention to environmental conditions, including moisture, soil pH, composition, temperature, and weather. Milky Spores are sensitive, and they might die in an unsuitable environment. So introduce them when the temperature is between 60° F to 70° F.

5. Use Neem Oil Or Azadirachtin For Safe Removal

For grub removal, you can consider using neem oil or Azadirachtin. Both are safe and organic products for grub treatment. They act as non-toxic bio-control agents and deter the grub from lawn feeding.

6. Apply Chemical Products On The Affected Areas

You can also choose non-toxic chemical products for faster grub elimination, but this practice requires expertise. We don’t suggest you do it without the presence of lawn care specialists. You may not have enough knowledge to identify and choose safe products and determine their quantity. You can approach Lawn Doctor USA experts for chemical application.

Convenient Practices For Lawn Grub Prevention

Prevention is always better than cure, so you can try these lawn grub prevention remedies to avoid damage and treatment.

Rake the soil to remove dead patches and soil compaction

Perform soil aeration to break the thatch layers and eliminate grubs early

From time to time reseed the patchy areas and mow your lawn to keep pests away

Irrigate the lawn adequately in the morning

Enable the soil to soak moisture

Call lawn care specialists for regular inspections

How Can Lawn Doctor USA Help With Lawn Grub Treatment?

Lawn Doctor USA is a reputed organization offering lawn healthcare services. Our company has an expert team to eliminate lawn grubs and protect the lawn from its damage. We apply non-toxic chemical pesticides for faster damage recovery. We also use other methods to eliminate grubs naturally.

Conclusion

The presence of lawn grub can deter lawn productivity, leading the affected areas to unexpected death. You must take precautions and lawn grub treatment to restrict their growth and stop them from robbing soil fertility and lawn productivity. On-time treatment will prolong the lifespan of the lawn and keep it green forever.

Source: Effective Ways To Prevent Lawn Grub

#Grub control

[hortascountrysidenotes]

The Rhythm of Summer

At last we have had some slightly more settled weather and the garden has responded with the later roses looking spectacular and the first of the mid to late summer perennials coming into flower.  The hay has been cut and baled at the top end of the common - a great year for hay all over the country I am told so prices are not exorbitant!  I cant remember many years when it hasnt rained from the cut to the stacking in the barns!

The best of the late roses are the Sweet Juliet - a David Austin class act - actually I still think although one of his earliest English Shrub Roses, it is the best with a gorgeous citrussy scent and unblemished foliage.  Several of his roses are very prone to blackspot, and I feel in some cases the flower heads are so big and densely petalled that they cant take wet weather at all, but Juliet does him proud.  Equally the Great Maidens Blush a lovely old Alba rose has escaped the mid June wet by being a late performer and currently looks exactly how an English rose should look, soft pink heavily scented flowers with a background of greyish green leaves.  The Alba roses all have these lovely grey green leaves and dont seem to have any problems with blackspot or disease. I also have Celestial which is nearly over now, but another great one is Mme Hardy, surprisingly tolerant of a bit of shade - they dont repeat but flower for a good long time.

Wimbledon is in the background and it is a great couple of weeks! The broad beans are nearly finished but the courgettes are under way, and the first beetroot is nearly ready.  We are picking tomatoes - I think earlier than last year even though the weather has not been as good.

Insect life around the green is we feel on an upward trajectory which is encouraging - the meadow butterflies are flitting above the pollen heavy grasses and the gentle noise of grasshoppers can be heard on warm afternoons.  The new cattle are peacefully grazing each morning so the swallows and swifts are happy to retrieve the insect life lifting off the areas where the cattle are moving and swishing.

In the main perennial border, the Monarda I think was Fireball, and it is now really making a show.  It is exciting to see the new Salvias poking up, the new Dahlia Blanc y Verde also in flower.  I have one Vernonia plant which I can just see poking above the phlox towards the back and if this is successful I shall get more.  It is time however to shear off the catmint to encourage the September flush and remove the now dreary Allium cristophii heads.

We have had fun over the weekend with a bunch of labradors from Yorkshire - not related tho the humans are!!  We had a delightful 16 weeker called Muddler who everyone fell in love with - so quiet and sensible, and such a brave little person.  She had her first swim in the North Sea, took a wave full on, but paddled out to find her master swimming before turning and paddling back to her mistress.  All the dogs got on so well, and it was lovely having 6, fast asleep after the trip to the beach on Saturday so content and peaceful. Muddlers father is Castlemans Sonoran from Yorkshire, owned by Pippa Williams who some may have seen doing the gundog demonstrations at Crufts - I think this maybe why Muddler has such a bombproof temperament, so I am keen to perhaps use him for Mavis - he is yellow but I dont mind that, so I am hoping to meet her in September as she picks up on the moor we are going to.

Training has got better with Mavis and I feel she is really going well now.  We have a short lesson on Wednesday and one just before the Sandringham Flower Show.  

Main focus of attention now is deadheading, getting the fruit trees summer pruned and numbers of fruits reduced.  A bit of light strimming of banks and under the walnut trees just to reduce unwanted nettle and old cow parsley.  Feeding pots when watering.  Keeping hydrangeas, beans and courgettes well watered. Clipping bay bushes now. Once jasmines have finished flowering, cut them back and thin out the excess so some of the new foliage comes low down.  Cut back catmint hard so it comes with a second flush.  Pick sweet peas hard and fast to make them continue and feed them with liquid seaweed.

Keep up care of tomatoes, chillies, peppers etc and shade greenhouse rooves if you have the capacity.  Leeks can follow where potatoes have been lifted in the lovely loose soil.  Prepare to plant out next springs brassicas such as Purple Sprouting Broccoli. Cut back any spring flowered comfrey - especially the white one so again the new foliage can take over.  Feed roses once the big deadhead is complete.  Watch for the gall midge in Hemerocallis buds - where the buds are distorted and fat they will usually contain a revolting maggot thing - I squash the buds so the grubs cannot hatch!

The mole is back - it makes me laugh, we have been at loggerheads since February - I hope it just goes away eventually as like Moriarty he has been a great adversary.

HORTA

[malleedesign]

New Post has been published on https://malleedesign.com.au/help-whats-wrong-with-my-plants/

Help! What's wrong with my Plants?

By Kath Gadd and Hannah Preston

Well it would seem La Niña is here with a vengence along the NSW and QLD east coast, resulting in way too much rain and very uncomfortable humidity. It has been a tough summer for many plants. Not only have the weeds enjoyed an extreme growth spurt but the bugs and insects are out in full force too and the extra moisture in the air is also great for moulds and fungus to flourish. Many of you may have noticed plants being affected by this or just looking downright unhappy!

There are four factors that may be challenging your plants health at the moment and we are going to give you a quick run down…

Sap Suckers 

Sap-sucking insects, such as scale, aphids and mealybugs, feed on the sugary-liquid that travels through plant tissues, slurping up the nutritious solution that should be feeding the plant! They tend to multiply quickly, weakening plants and often deform foliage. Many have tiny waxy bodies and secrete honeydew as a by-product of feeding. The honeydew attracts fungal diseases like sooty mould and also ants, which may protect the sap-suckers from predators and carry them to new plants. 

Because they can be so prolific and so tiny the best way to treat them is with an insect spray. A white oil treatment is effective for many sap suckers, it coats the breathing pores of insects, suffocating them, and can be easily made up at home with dishwashing liquid and oil (you can also use other home-made mixtures like a chilli or garlic oil). Shop-bought pest oils also work – they usually operate on the same principle of suffocating pests and may contain other compounds to ensure knock-out. Pyrethrum, another good option, is slightly different. The active compound is naturally-derived from the pyrethrum Daisy and works by inhibiting an insect’s nervous system.

Whatever spray you’re using try to spray only the affected areas on both sides of the leaves/branches. Chemicals like pyrethrum are non-specific so will also kill the good insects and bees around your plants if you use them too much. Another option is manual removal. Some people have removed sap suckers by patiently scraping the leaves, or if the infestation is too large, blasting them off with a pressure hose.

Eucalypt with scale

Leaf chewers 

Leaf chewing insects have specialised mouthparts and often target young, tastier leaves and little seedlings. They include things like caterpillars, sawfly larvae and slugs. They’ll often secrete toxins that make them unpalatable to potential predators like birds, and in that way, continue feeding on plants unharmed. 

Some of the pest oils/sprays work for leaf chewers but you can also try manual strategies depending on the insect and its lifecycle. For example, the caterpillar on this White Cedar (Melia azedarach) below has been absolutely decimating the foliage. The grubs eat the leaves during the day then fall to the ground at night. Putting up a foil barrier around the base of the tree’s trunk seems to have stopped them being able to climb back up in the morning. 

In the case of sawfly larvae, pruning off affected foliage before the infestation gets too large may be enough. Sawfly larvae feed mostly on bottlebrush. If found on established, adult plants they shouldn’t be a problem but on vulnerable, young plants you need to remove them before it’s too late.  

Caterpillars on White Cedar

Foil barrier to stop caterpillers climbing up to the leaves of the tree

Deficiencies 

Deficiencies usually present as discolouration in the leaves and are more common in rainy weather. Heavy rain washes out nutrients in poor soils – the washing out of nitrogen (N) and iron (Fe) can be a particular issue for natives and there have been devastating amounts of runoff and erosion in my region. 

Yellowing of the leaves is one of the most common signs of deficiency. It can be hard to tell exactly what a plant is deficient in but providing some slow-release native fertiliser, iron chelates and/or adding trace elements like manganese, zinc and boron can help. Trace elements play a role in unlocking nutrients to plants, often via soil microorganisms. Soil microorganisms are the main underground energy hubs that convert inorganic forms of nutrients like nitrogen into bioavailable forms that plants can use.

Yellowing of grass tree leaves indicating nutrient deficiency

Moulds and Fungus 

Mould and fungus can spread to plants via wind, water, soil and animals. Sooty mould is one of the most common variants on garden plants and it settles on the honeydew secreted by sap-suckers. It doesn’t directly damage the plant itself but when it smothers lots of leaves it can stop the plant from being able to photosynthesise. The best way to treat the mould is by treating the source of the problem, the sap-sucker! But, you can also manually wipe off thickly coated mould with a damp cloth. 

Other funguses and mould to to look out for are myrtle rust, which is detrimental to many of out native tree and shrubs, beginning as purple spots and turning into yellow pustules on the under-side of leaves, this fungus needs to be removed immediately by cutting off affected leaves and branches and disposing of them appropriately, so the spores don’t spread.

Phytophora is another fungal mould that appears in humid, wet weather – it can appear as dieback on the leaf, turning into blight or rust, but also as root rot on larger specimens. It is caused by plants not coping with poor drainage and may begin as a problem around the root zone and not show up on the leaves until it’s too late.

Fungicides have limited scope and should not be expected to cure heavily infected plants, it is better to take a note of what is suffering and try to improve drainage and air flow around the plant.

The most important thing to do is keep an eye on your plants by checking them closely and regularly, especially in this weather when pests and diseases are rife.

Goodluck and I hope we get a good break from heavy rainfall soon!

Sooty mold on Lilly Pilly

Mint bush with Phytophora mould

#disease #garden maintenance #gardening #humidity #la nina #native plants #pest #plant health

[landscapedesignfirm]

5 Common Summer Turf Issues

Do you see the same issues with your lawn every summer, such as brown grass, patches of dirt, and a whole lot of insects? You and countless other homeowners deal with these summer turf issues that happen like clockwork and lead to more work. Homeowners want their lawns to look beautiful, and these problems get in the way of achieving that. So we have gathered a list of 5 common issues your yard faces every summer, what causes them, and what you can do to resolve or prevent them.

1. Drought Stress

Drought can be a significant issue during summer and early fall. Turf wilting or browning can often result from drought stress due to the high temperatures and lack of rain during summer. Thinning is another sign of drought stress, as are firmly rooted grass stalks. Deep watering can alleviate drought stress, which is easy to do with an irrigation system that provides consistent water. Core aeration (removing small plugs of soil and thatch to allow deep penetration of nutrients, air, and water) and fertilization can also help mitigate drought stress.

2. Thatch

Another one of the common summer turf issues you may encounter is thatch. Thatch is a layer of organic matter (both living and dead) that accumulates around the base of grass plants. The results are brown patches or spots, along with a “spongy” feeling when you walk across your yard. In addition, thatch can repel water or invite fungal diseases depending on the dryness of the thatch layer. Soil correction that targets the lawn’s pH balance will help control thatch, along with aeration for particularly thick layers of thatch.

3. Insects

If you like to spend time outdoors, you will know that many insects come out in hot weather seasons and can cause issues for your lawn. For example, root-munching insects like white grubs can cause the grass to turn yellow and attract other animals like raccoons and skunks to dig up your property. Other insects like sod webworms eat grass blades, which causes lawn patches to be cut too close to the ground. With so many other insects that can cause problems, the best solution is to reach out to a landscape or plant health care professional to inspect your lawn and devise a solution for whatever insects are currently affecting your property.

4. Diseases & Molds

Along with insects, diseases and mold can cause significant problems for your lawn. In summer, many lawn diseases attack and can be highly effective due to the turf and plant life being stressed and weakened from drought or other afflictions. Infections also arise due to consistent watering after dark and mowing with a dull blade that tears grass, creating more openings for diseases to infect the turf. As with insects, the best way to resolve them is to meet with a landscape professional who can evaluate your lawn and figure out the best course of action.

5. Bare Spots & Thin Lawn

Bare spots and a thin lawn are familiar sights during summer and early fall. Spots in your yard with little turf and exposed dirt can be caused by excessive foot traffic, poor soil conditions, grub infestation, fungal disease, and more. A thin lawn may result from soil compaction, improper watering or mowing, or insufficient fertilizer. Each of these summer turf issues has a different solution:

If you have a thin lawn, aerate and overseed.

If your yard has bare spots, fill up the areas by reseeding.

Both of these actions will help bring a thicker, more vibrant look to your grass.

Contact Burkholder Brothers for Turf Care Services & to Resolve Summer Turf Issues

Is your yard suffering from any of these summer turf issues? If so, contact Burkholder Brothers. We have a team of passionate, knowledgeable, certified landscape professionals, each of whom has years of experience in turf care. Our team offers many different turf care services to address your needs. For more information on our services, request a free consultation today.

Blog is originally published at: https://www.burkholderlandscape.com/5-common-summer-turf-issues/

It is republished with permission from the author.

#Summer Turf Issues #turf care

[jurnaltalking]

Safe Lawn disease and pest control

Having a neat and healthy lawn is more than just something nice to look at. It is a reflection of you and your home and it is a place where you can find peace of mind and enjoy the outdoors. On a great lawn, you can make some great memories. But having a healthy lawn does not just happen without some effort from you or a lawn service professional. Pests and diseases happen and this is not just damaging to your lawn. It impacts your home too and can even decrease its value. There is a range of diseases and pests to consider. This means lawn pest control, Hampshire and beyond is necessary for your lawn and for your property.

Common lawn pests and diseases

Some of the pests and diseases you face when looking after your lawn include;

Ants - Ants build nests in your lawn and cut your grass roots.

Chafer grubs - Eat the grass roots and live in your lawn. As well as the issue of the damage they cause themselves there is the problem that an infestation attracts birds and animals to eat them and they then cause damage to the lawn too!

Fairy rings - Fungus on your lawn growing in rings. There are several types and each grows in different situations and needs treating differently.

Fusarium also known as snow mould - A disease that can come after being covered in snow for a long time or after being damp for a long time.

Lichen - This is not a good sign for your lawn, it means it is in dire need of care.

Moles - Can do a lot of damage to your lawn in their search for food.

Red thread - A common lawn disease that leaves red or pink threads.

Rust - Yellowing grass if it is not from drying out could be the disease rust so you may need lawn disease control Hampshire.

Lawn pest control options

There are several choices for lawn pest control and disease treatment. A lot of them though use harmful chemicals that are not good for the lawn, creatures or people living there. Some of these pesticides are literally poising you over a long period and there are studies looking at the connection between certain illnesses and certain chemicals. When using pesticides like that can also get into the local water supply and contaminate it.

Choosing greener lawn treatment options

There are many effective green or organic options for controlling pests and treating diseases. If that is important to you then you should make that clear in your choice of lawn service should you invest in one. Choosing one or more of these is the best option for your family and yourself and for the local environment. Lawn pest control Hampshire can be done in a manner that is effective and not damaging.

Conclusion

There are some very effective and professional lawn disease control Hampshire businesses to choose from so take your time and choose the best one for you.

[livingcorner]

How to make a vegetable garden from scratch

Prepare the ground

Start your preparation by pulling out any annual weeds before they self-sow – summer is an ideal time to do this. Whilst busy you can assess whether or not you have many perennial weeds in your grassy area. The likely suspects are buttercup, clover and bindweed and they will need removing.

If you have lots of perennial weeds you will have your work cut out. As there is now some concern over the use of glyphosate it may be better not to apply weed killer but instead to cover the ground with carpet or black impermeable weed suppressing membrane until the weeds have turned yellow and completely died. Once dead wait for a week or two and then turn the soil over with a garden fork, but don’t break down the clods. Leave them and allow the winter to break down the lumps.

You're reading: How to make a vegetable garden from scratch

If your lawn in mainly well-behaved grasses, there is another alternative to spraying. Lift the turf by cutting foot-long squares and pile it up in a stack. You can either leave the turf in this stack and it will decompose and produce loamy soil which can be added to the top. Or you can bury your turf a spade’s depth down and this will feed the soil.

Once the ground is clear fork the soil over roughly, leaving the clods of soil intact. Let the weather, ie the frost and cold, break down the soil for you. By spring it will hopefully be fine and powdery, unless it’s heavy clay. Then it may take longer to break down. Clay soil lays cold and wet for longer, so planting and sowing on clay needs greater patience. You need warm conditions and drying soil. However clay soil is fertile and it hangs on to its nutrients well.

The act of turning over the soil will bring lots of seeds to the surface and they will germinate, so in the following year there will be lots of weeding. The best method is to try and catch the seedlings early and hoe them off using a small hoe. This will also deter slugs, because they hate the ground being disturbed.

Plan your vegetable garden

Set your new vegetable patch up into separate areas if you can, rather than one large patch. Each bed could be partitioned with planks, although do frisk the ground underneath the wooden planks for slugs on a regular basis.

Raised beds are popular with some gardeners, but keep the sides low because if they’re too high they exclude slug-munching beetles and amphibians. This system will preserve the soil structure, because you won’t have to trample over the patch every time you harvest. If you can devise a four-part system it will make rotation easier. This system of moving crops round deters diseases and avoids the build up of soil-borne pests such as cabbage root fly.

When and what to plant

Virgin ground should be very fertile for the first year, but the trick with vegetable growing is timing. Wait for spring to appear before getting busy. The grass should be growing and the birds should be nesting.

What to plant in the first year

Opt for plants that go in an out of the ground within weeks at the start. If you wish to grow fruit, such as strawberries, or asparagus, give it two or three years of weed clearing before you plants.

Read more: How to Kill Grubs in Vegetable Gardens

Opt for vegetable varieties with an AGM if you can. This Award of Garden Merit, awarded by experts, denotes a superb variety. Be prepared to pay for F1 seeds. Although more expensive, they have greater vigour at every stage and that includes germination.

Potatoes

Potatoes condition the soil and break it up so they cover as much of your new plot as you can. Opt for first or second early varieties and buy them in January or February. Place them somewhere cool and light so that they chit. ie produce small shoots. Plant them in mid-April and try to lift them before the end of July, before potato blight strikes.

First Early Potato ‘Foremost ‘AGM Ever popular ‘new potato’ with slightly waxy, firm, white, good-flavoured flesh that does not discolour or disintegrate on cooking.

Second Early ‘Lady Christl’ AGM Bulks up quickly and the tubers stay small. Shallow- eyed, pale yellow-skin and creamy flesh which remains firm on cooking. Eelworm resistant.

Read more on growing potatoes.

Early carrots and beetroot

Sow in early April in wide, four-inch drills. This negates the need to thin the seedlings. By late June you should be harvesting both.

‘Amsterdam Forcing 3’ AGM Smooth colourful carrot which bulks up well early on.

‘Purple Haze’ F1 Sow two or three weeks after ‘Amsterdam Forcing’ because purple varieties need warmer temperatures to germinate.

Beetroot ‘Alto’ F1 AGM Cylindrical roots which push up through the ground so it’s easy to see the size of each root. Crops well and it’s early.

Read more on growing carrots

Runner Beans

Go for tripods rather than rows and sow the beans in modular trays and then plant them out when they are a foot high. Sow in late-April, but make sure that the beans do not get planted outside until early June and, if you’ve grown them under glass, give them at least a week outside to harden off. Red-flowered varieties prefer cooler summers. White-flowered varieties do best in warm summers and hybrid runner x French beans do well whatever the weather.

Hybrid Runner x French ‘Moonlight’ AGM Self-pollinating with creamy-apricot flowers followed by fleshy stringless beans about a foot long.

Runner Bean ‘Polestar’ British-bred red-flowered runner bean that produced rounded plump beans.

Runner Bean ‘White Lady’ Vigorous heavy cropping white runner bean that sets beans even in high temperatures.

Read more: Feng Shui Tips For Luck And Wealth: 7 Ways To Use Elephant In Your Home Decor

Read more on growing runner beans

Lettuces

A good catch crop round the beans, to tempt the slugs towards them rather than the growing tips of your runners. Grow three varieties ( loose leaf, a small hearting lettuce and a Cos) to harvest in succession. Sow and prick out into modular 6×4 trays in march, then in June and then in early July to ensure a succession.

‘Salad Bowl’ There are green and red forms of this loose-leaf lettuce, or mixed packets. The advantage of a loose leaf variety is that it’s ready first and doesn’t bolt as easily in dry weather.

‘Little Gem’ The perfect small hearting lettuce for two people. Green and sweet.

‘Lobjoit’s Green’ Large heritage Cos Lettuce, with an upright habit.

Read more on growing lettuce

Courgettes

Try a couple of courgette plants as well, because these will crop in the second half of summer. Fruits must be harvested three times a week to keep the supply coming.

‘Venus’ AGM Compact plant, with almost spine-free stems. Good yield of dark-green glossy fruits.

‘Orelia’ AGM Golden yellow courgette with slender fruit. A vigorous and heavy-cropping variety.

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Source: https://livingcorner.com.au Category: Garden

source https://livingcorner.com.au/how-to-make-a-vegetable-garden-from-scratch/

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