#down HUNDREDS of years ago and a mosque was built on top of it and then hindutvas destroyed that mosque that was also | Explore Tumblr Posts and Blogs

lindoig1 · 6 years

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Tour of Istanbul Day 30

A great day, but greatly exhausting. Our guide was Derya and she was excellent. We all clicked and she was easy to talk with and didn’t hurry us along at all.

I was glad that the Blue Mosque was closed - that is for us to see on our own next week - so the only mosque we went to was the Hagia Sophia which isn’t a mosque any longer. It is a museum that contains a lot of historical and commemorative artefacts from both Christian and Moslem traditions, having been an important part of both for long periods in the past. Incidentally, there are something like 3500 mosques in Istanbul (yep, 3500!) and I will make it a crusade NOT to visit them all. We have seen some that are less than 50 metres from their neighbours and I really can’t understand why anyone would commit the hundreds of millions of dollars to build a new one if a perfectly good one is basically next door. But someone decided it was essential and there are plenty more under construction to swell the surfeit.

The mosques here are quite different from the almost garish ones/scores we saw across Asia (we are in European Istanbul although we have visited and will again visit Asian Istanbul in the next day or two). They are very plain with almost no exterior ornamentation and the inside it more muted, more symbolic, maybe more utilitarian, rather than opulent or ornate. I am not complaining - the excesses of bygone days are as bad as those of the rich today. Those without a choice still had to pay for it so a less expensive product is probably preferred as long as it is fit for purpose and every one of them is far more than that!

Hagia Sophia is 1500 years old and is built on the ashes of two previous Christian churches: one that burned down and one that was burned down in a riot in revenge for a sporting loss - so what has changed in 1500 years? Very interesting that it is now preserved as a monument to the two main opposing traditions and nobody has firebombed it again for so long. I hope it remains so for another millennium or five. But I wouldn’t mind if someone attacked their horrific PA system. It is the loudest in our solar system (and all the nearby ones too) and blasts the invitation to pray (the Adhan) at the most obscene hours. The interesting thing is that because it is a museum, nobody is allowed to pray there. They have to traipse all the way to one of the other mosques 100 metres or so away.

The nearby Topkapi Palace is only about 500 years old and is quite a bit smaller than it was 200 years ago, but it is still quite fabulous. There are 4 concentric areas with access into the inner ones governed by your status. The innermost was reserved for the Sultan and his family (including the very extensive quarters for the harem). The outermost was virtually public space where the plebs were allowed to visit and access to the other two depended on how close you were to the interests of the Sultan. It is all rather wonderful and the gardens are beautifully kept and the views across the Sea of Marmara and the Bosphorus are phenomenal. Now, even the plebs can take happy snaps from the Sultan’s lair.

Moving right along, we visited the Basilica Cistern just across the road from our hotel. It is one of the 14 original cisterns fed from a river in the mountains 60 km north, but it is the only one open to the public. It was very steep and dark in there, everything was damp, but with no more than a few small puddles in the pools. It is undergoing some restoration at present, but normally has lots of fish in it so they had all been corralled in one small pool with lots of photographers taking advantage of their concentration. I think the cistern is 9 metres deep, 70 metres wide and 100-odd metres long with a capacity of over 100 million litres - one of 14 and by no means the biggest, but the only water supply for the then growing city. The whole system was quite utilitarian, of course, and the building materials were purloined from wherever - mis-fitting columns bolstered with bricks, plinths, whatever they could find, including two carved heads of Medusa, one upright, one on its side. It was an interesting space with a corner reserved for some extraordinary photographic enterprise. We have seen lots of places where you can get kitted out with some amazing antiquey costumes and get a pic for about $5-6, but this one was over the top with elaborate backdrops and room for maybe 10 or 12 people in the pic - blazingly light when the rest of the Cistern was inky dark.

En route to lunch, I missed a great photo because I was lagging a bit and trying to catch up. There was a big sign for the ‘Show Hypermarket’. It was on an angled corner with just some goods displayed in the window, but with about 5 or 6 steps around the angle with a few locals sitting on them. I was instantly reminded of the Fiddler, Topol - with one going nowhere just for Show!!!

We went to our guide’s favourite lunch spot - she said she goes there every day, even when she is not working. It was near the Grand Bazaar, but up an alley and around a corner so it was very quiet. I think it was part of an old caravanserai - which reminds me that the guy who befriended us and showed us the caravanserai where he had his shop is a close friend of Derya. They have known each other for years, but it seems he may have told us some fibs. He doesn’t own the shop, nor the other three he said he owned in the Bazaar, but it was a good story.

We took coffee and tea and then more tea and coffee in another caravanserai that contained a water-pipe (hookah) smoking area. Very interesting! You can get a pipe with as many plastic tips as there are people at you table, so everyone has their own that simply attaches it to the main pipe when it is your turn and you want a puff. The bakky is actually a mix of fruit and/or herbs of your choice, covered with foil and a guy walks around with glowing fire-sticks that he places on the foil and replaces regularly to keep the smoke available as long as you want. Fascinating and we sat talking, enjoying and relaxing for well over an hour.

We then had a stroll in the Grand Bazaar. We need to go back, but it was not too crowded and quite a bit of fun. Heaps of interesting things to look at, but avoid eye contact and walk away as soon as you appear to be targeted. We don’t want to buy anything, but it is still good to look at all the glitter and bling. Lots of really lovely wares, but maybe not for us.

We intend trying out some of the nearby restaurants for our evening meals, but we were pretty buggered that day so just ate in the hotel again.

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roundtheworldrambles · 6 years

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Xi’an, China

Day 56 - Beijing to X’ian

We boarded our sleeper train at Beijing West Station in the evening - beginning our 16 hour journey to Xi’an, over a thousand kilometres Southwest of Beijing. The language barrier made for quite a challenge - with Christie and I running all over the massive station, trying to figure out how to collect our tickets. I later found out that Beijing West Station is the largest train station in all of Asia, typically serving over 150,000 passengers per day.

Finally found our platform!!

Fortunately, after a few days of being in China, we had quickly learned to give ourselves lots of extra time with any form of transportation! Having collected our tickets, we joined the throngs of people in the waiting area. Packed into every available chair and inch of floor space, many passengers were travelling with big cardboard boxes and stuffed rice bags. Loud announcements in Mandarin blared from overhead speakers, updating travellers on the constant stream of trains coming and going from the station.

Our sleeper compartment was shared with two other friendly Chinese women. Although we were unable to directly communicate with each other - between Google translate and a similar Chinese app, we were able to exchange a few simple pleasantries and smiles. The small bunks were quite basic, but comfortable enough for our long overnight journey. We secured our passports and valuables in our bags with a bicycle lock, settling down for the night as our train chugged South out of Beijing.

Day 57 - Xi’an

Arriving in Xi’an station mid morning, we walked to our hostel in the middle of the walled city centre. The city of Xi’an is one of the most ancient in China, steeped with thousands of years of Chinese history. Many early royal dynasties called Xi’an home, along with the first Emperor Qin Shi Hueng, who unified China over 2000 years ago by conquering states throughout the region.

In addition to being a capital of ancient civilization, Xi’an was also the terminus of the Silk Road trade route. Because of this important location in ancient trade, Xi’an has evolved over time as a city with an incredible mix of people, religion and culture. These influences continue to be reflected to this day in everything from the vibrant Muslim minority, to the fusion of Chinese and Western architecture seen throughout the city.

As we made our way through the historic city centre, we immediately noticed the poor air quality. Although warmer than Beijing, the winter season in Xi’an is known for the heavy blanket of smog that hangs over the city. Looking through the window of our hostel room, the city skyline was scarcely visible beyond a few blocks, hidden in the thick haze. I have never before experienced smog to the extent we saw in Xi’an, and throughout our entire stay in the city, we barely saw the sun.

Thick Smog over Xi’an

Dropping off our bags, we set out to explore the city. Our hostel was located in a wholesale/market neighbourhood of the city, with delicious coffee shops scattered throughout wholesale stores. (For the record, the coffee throughout China was consistently fantastic!) Walking along the narrow sidewalks crammed with scooters and bicycles, we passed wholesale vendors selling everything from engine parts, cookware and beauty products. At the end of our block, we were immediately greeted by the strong, unmistakeable smell of a fresh fish market, with every type of seafood imaginable on display in the open air.

In the centre of historic Xi’an, we traversed a chaotic, multi-lane roundabout to visit the ancient Bell Tower. Over 600 years old and built in the Ming Dynasty, the tower was named for the 6.5 ton bell within, which historically was rung to tell time or to raise an alarm in the ancient city. The classical Ming architecture in the tower was reminiscent of the Forbidden City, with green-tiled eaves and red decorative lanterns.

After a few failed attempts to find lunch (complete with one instance of being ignored at a restaurant!), we tucked into a steaming basket of dumplings and bowl of spicy noodles. Continuing our exploration in the afternoon, we wandered towards the Muslim Quarter. Turning a corner, we were met with an immediate assault on the senses - scooters whizzing through crowds of people on Bienyuanmen Muslim Street, with hundreds of handmade food stalls lining the bustling sidewalks.

Market in Xi’an’s Muslim Quarter

The food market in the Muslim Quarter was unlike any I had ever seen before. Carcasses of various animals were hung along the street, with the meat stripped down to the bone. In China, almost every part of an animal can be used in cooking - which we saw throughout the market, with lungs, liver and heart displayed for sale. The smell of roasting walnuts, scooter exhaust and pungent jackfruit filled the cold air. Walking amongst the stalls, every imaginable food could be purchased, from deep fried potato spirals, blocks of spiced tofu, freshly squeezed pomegranate juice, and persimmon donuts. Chinese Muslim men behind stalls wore white caps, with women covering their head with beaded headscarves.

We continue along a series of side streets to find hundreds of other products on sale, from spices to pearls. We were quickly on the receiving end of some fairly intense sales pitches and bartering, in one case a vendor grabbing at our clothes as we tried to quickly walk away. Needing a break from the chaos of the Muslim Quarter, Christie and I retreated to the nearby Great Mosque of Xi’an. A complete juxtaposition to the commotion of the nearby streets, the peaceful grounds of the walled complex provided us with a welcome quiet moment. Built in the Ming Dynasty, the Mosque mixes traditional Chinese architecture with Islamic designs seen in the Middle East. Lush gardens were framed by ornate wooden archways, separating a series of beautifully manicured courtyards.

Christie wandering through the grounds of Xi’an’s Mosque

Gathering our energy over another coffee (the fatigue from riding the overnight train kicking in around now!), we headed to the South Gate of the city to walk around the Xi’an City Wall. Running alongside a moat, this impressive wall circles the historic city centre, running for 13.7 kilometres. At 12 metres tall and 18 metres wide, the wall was built to protect Xi’an from invasion, and is among the largest defensive military systems of the ancient world. As the daylight fell, Christie and I wandered along the top of the South wall as the red lanterns were lit. From our vantage point, we could see both the ancient and modern sides of the city as we walked back to our hostel for the night.

Lanterns along the city wall surrounding Xi’an’s historic centre

Day 58 - Xi’an and Terracotta Army

Christie and I woke early and headed out to visit the Terracotta Warriors, located about 40 kilometres East of Xi’an. The Terracotta Warriors (or “Army”) were only discovered in 1974 when farmers were digging a well, and is considered to be one of the most famous archeological discoveries in modern history. The Terracotta Army is estimated to have been constructed around 200 BC, and is made up of thousands of life-sized clay warriors. This Army was built to provide protection and military power for the first Emperor Qin Shi Hueng in the afterlife, and represents the soldiers he commanded during the wars that unified China. The Terracotta Warriors, which include an infantry, and cavalry, were buried near the tomb of the Emperor.

Terracotta Warriors in Pit 1 - the largest excavation site

It was freezing cold outside as we began our visit to the Terracotta Warriors. The site has three separate excavation pits, with several ongoing digs in progress. The largest pit is the size of an airport hanger, with row upon row of life-sized terracotta models. These warriors would have once been brightly painted, but after thousands of years in the ground, all colour has worn away. As I took in the impressive rows of ancient warriors, I gradually began to notice variations in their uniform, hairstyle, and posture. These small differences indicate the rank of the soldiers: from generals, to archers and charioteers. In another pit, there were also life-sized terracotta horses.

The main excavation site is the size of an airplane hanger, and growing.

After visiting the excavation site, we continued onwards to see the mausoleum of the first Emperor. This tomb has not yet been excavated, and there is little more to see than a massive pyramid of earth in the distance. Archeologists suspect that within this mausoleum there may be further life-sized models to protect the emperor, along with a replica of the ancient city of Xi’an. It is also believed that in addition to the clay figures, thousands of real people were buried alongside the emperor - from concubines to craftsman who built the mausoleum. All of these people were intended to follow the emperor into the afterlife. There are many stories and ancient texts describing the wealth and riches buried within the tomb, as well as descriptions of booby traps to guard against robbers.

Unfortunately, Christie became very sick enroute to the site, so our visit to the Terracotta Warriors ended up being quite brief. (Christie jokingly asked me to call this post “Christie learns what Immodium does and has hallucinations about going on a spirit quest”). It was a pretty rough day for her, and she ended up going to sleep immediately after our return to Xi’an.

Traditional Chinese Hot Pot

After making sure that Christie was resting and had everything she needed, I joined our British roommates for homemade Chinese hot pot. This delicious dish is made by cooking a variety of vegetables, tofu, noodles and spices in a boiling broth on the table in front of us. I had a few beers with a jovial group of Brits, including one very impressive guy who had cycled all the way from England to China!

Hotspot dinner with the Brits!

After dinner, we decided to take out Mobi-bikes (one of the countless bike-share programs in the city), to cycle across Xi’an to a bar tucked away near the South Wall. Biking through Chinese traffic, including through massive roundabouts, was equally exhilarating and terrifying - an experience in and of itself, given that so many Xi’an residents get around town this way.

The hidden underground bar, though not visible from the street, was packed with a combination of Chinese locals and a few foreigners, listening to live music, dancing and playing table games. I had a great time, and really enjoyed seeing what a night out in China was like!

Xi’an’s Bell tower at night

#China #Inspiration

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znmds-world · 3 years

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Budapest Travel Portal

The Hungarian capital, Budapest, is located on the Danube coast in Central Europe. It is the national political, economic and cultural heart, and is one of the most beautiful and vibrant cities on the continent. For centuries this has been the myth of two cities, the city of Buda rising from the western hills and from Pest, from the eastern plains of the East. The Danube kept the two cities separate until 1873, when Budapest's first bridge, which began connecting the two sections, became one.

The story of the two cities was one of destruction and restoration. Just as the waters of the Danube flowed through Budapest, so did the great waves of European history, often kindly, but sometimes with great force. Budapest is a big city, and navigating its regional routes can be as challenging as understanding its complex history. For a more complete view, head to the Citadel on the Buddhist side of the Danube, and take views from the 19th-century castles at Gellért Hill. Just on the river from the oldest site in Citadel Is Budapest, The Castle District, full of medieval, baroque and 19th century buildings. Ride a 150-year-old funicular up to Castle Hillto Buda Castle. Originally built in the 13th century, the fort was home to Hungarian monarchs, a stronghold of the Ottoman army, and the headquarters of the German elite Commando Unit.

Seven hundred years ago, this castle was demolished by wars and rebuilt during times of peace. At the northern end of the palace hill rises the contemptible spirit of the Mathias Church, which served as a mosque during the 150 years of Ottoman rule. Get out of the church and enter the gates of Fisherman’s Bastion, which has seven towers representing the seven Magyar Tribes that founded the Hungarian nation in the ninth century. In ancient times, fish women sold their wares here; today the beautiful libraries are another great place to hold views throughout the city. Once you have explored the highlands of Castle Hill, walk past one of Budapest's landmarks on the Pest side of town. Crossing the Danube was not always easy, for for centuries travelers had been exposed to the elements. In 1820 a small number vowed to build a bridge after a snowstorm in winter prevented him from attending the funeral of his beloved father. Thirty years later, the Szechenyi Chain Bridge was completed. Praised at the time as one of the world's greatest engineering miracles, the bridge was just one of many achievements that earned István Széchenyi the title of The Greatest Hungarian. Once you have crossed the river, follow the river bank up to the Office of the Hungarian Parliament. Made with love of 40 million bricks, half a million gemstones and 88 kilograms of gold, this masterpiece carries the hopes and dreams of the nation. It is also home to Hungarian Crown Jewels, hidden, lost, stolen and repatriated. Join the tour to see the crown of Hungary's first king, St Stephen, which after being kept at the American Fort Knox for safekeeping throughout the Cold War, is now proud of the place below the central dome of Parliament. The Parliament building is home to about a hundred statues, but none is more popular than that of the Minister of Defense, Imre Nagy. In 1956 Nagy provoked the Soviets by announcing his country's withdrawal from the Warsaw Pact, which sparked a violent but destructive conflict that killed him and thousands of Hungarians. Just a short walk down the river from the Parliament building is a sobering reminder of one of the city's darkest chapters.

In 1944, thousands of Budapest residents, mostly Jews, were assassinated here by the ruling fascist party. The 60-foot metal shoe, lined up on the riverbank, honors those shot and swept away at night by the Danube streams. Despite the horrors of World War II, modern-day Budapest has the largest Jewish population in Europe. They are lost in the Jewish category, the site of the revival because of its colorful cafe and event bar. Then pay homage to The Dohany Street Synagogue, Europe's largest Jewish house of worship. Budapest is home to more than 200 museums. The national treasure, the Hungary National Museum, lies just south of the Jewish Quarter. Here you can explore more than 1000 years of Hungarian history, from the days of the Magyars, to the time of Stalinist and beyond. But this is more than just a building dedicated to the past, this is a place where history is made. In 1848 the first call to revolt from these measures encouraged the Hungarians to rise up and break the chains of their Austrian superiors. Like many of the city's historic buildings, St Stephen's story is full of drama. The church took 54 years to complete. It would have been completed years ago if the storm had not caused the dam to collapse, forcing the builders to demolish the entire church and start over. Happily the new dome has been firmly entrenched now for over a century, a reassuring thought as it takes ideas from the top. From St Stephen's, allow yourself to be swept away by Andrassy Avenue, a world-class boulevard heritage full of beautiful renovated buildings and great restaurants. Not far from St Stephen’s is another temple, one that celebrates European music gods.

Although the curtains were first opened at the Hungary State Opera House more than 130 years ago, the acoustics here are still regarded as one of the finest in the world. Andrassy Avenue continues to flow northeast, past Franz Liszt Square, reserved for the city's most revered musician, before finally opening to Heroes Square. Look at the seven Hungarian nobles who founded Magyar, and stop for a moment at the Unknown Military Tomb. Heroes Square is the gateway to City Park, which in 1896 became the landmark celebration of the Hungarian Millennium. As part of the festivities, Vajdahun

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charllieeldridge · 4 years

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Crete, Greece: The Complete Travel Guide

Crete is a destination that’s bound to steal your heart. It’s a charming and mysterious island with some of the most hospitable people on earth. There are endless places to visit, things to do, and dishes to eat — you’ll never be bored on this Greek island.

Often described as its own universe, the landscape of Crete is varied and full of diversity.

Home to stunning old towns and quaint ports, high mountains ideal for adventure, and a collection of awe-inspiring beaches — there’s something for everyone on a holiday in Crete!

Many people book a trip to Crete with the sole purpose of relaxing on the gorgeous beaches.

But, there’s so much more you can see and do in Crete than just lazing by the sea. It’s possible to go trekking, snorkeling, mountain biking, sailing, or even fishing!

I first came to Crete several years ago, and I kept returning each year. Like many others I’ve met, I completely fell in love with the place and decided to stay.

The coastal city of Chania has been my adopted home for more than four years. Now it’s time for you to discover Crete!

I’m excited to introduce Crete to you in this comprehensive travel guide.

Where to Stay in Crete, Greece

At 260 km (160 miles) long and 56 km (35 miles) wide, Crete is the largest and most populous island in Greece. It’s huge!

So, when it comes to choosing your accommodation in Crete, you have many options in each region.

To figure out where to stay, all you need to do is decide on which type of vacation you’re focusing on.

Are you into cultural experiences? Are you looking for the ultimate beach holiday? Would you rather just relax and disconnect from the rest of the world?

Crete can offer you all of that and more, you just need to choose your region wisely.

Let’s first take a look at Crete’s four main areas to help you decide which are the best places to stay in Crete according to your interests:

Heraklion for History and Culture

Chania for Best Beaches

Rethymnon for Traditional Villages

Lasithi for Relaxing Holidays

Here’s a short description of every main city in each of Crete’s four different regions.

Heraklion, the Capital of Crete

Crete’s main region and capital of the island is Heraklion.

The city is also one of the two main gates to Crete, with an international airport and an important port that receives ferries from mainland Greece as well as cruise ships almost every day.

This vibrant city offers endless choices of cultural activities, including art galleries and some of Greece’s most interesting museums.

But that’s not all. In this region, you can also visit three of the four Minoan Palaces that have been excavated on the island so far — the Minoan Palaces of Knossos and Malia, on the northern coast, as well as the mysterious Minoan Palace of Phaistos in the South.

Younger crowds love the nearby coastal town of Malia as it’s the place to be for nightlife.

This seaside town gathers a collection of beach bars, clubs, and discos that make it the place to party in Crete.

One of the few hotels in Heraklion with a pool is Galaxy Hotel Iraklio, located in a very central position and serving one of the best breakfasts I’ve ever tried in town.

Those who come to Heraklion to enjoy the nightlife will want to choose an all-inclusive resort in the coastal towns of Hersonissos or Malia.

Chania, West Crete

Located on the western portion of Crete, Chania is a fantastic region that offers a plethora of opportunities for adventurous holidays.

Plus, some of the most impressive beaches of Crete are found along the coast of Chania.

The capital of the region, also named Chania, hosts one of the prettiest ancient towns in Greece.

Old Town Chania has an interesting past made of conquests and foreign rulers, all of which managed to leave their own trace and identity in the architecture of the city.

The old city is a great place to stay if you adore the romantic atmosphere of old Venetian mansions and Turkish facades. You can also go shopping for some authentic souvenirs in Chania’s Agora, one of the biggest municipal markets in the Balkans.

You can stay in one of the many boutique hotels of Chania. Casa Delfino is one of the most exclusive boutique hotels while those on a budget will be astonished at the modern facilities of Kumba Hostel.

Rethymnon Region

The region of Rethymnon is located halfway through Heraklion and Chania so a good base to visit both without driving long distances.

However, Rethymnon has more to offer — it’s not just a comfortable place from where to move around and explore.

If you loved the old town of Chania, you’ll be happy to discover the alleys of Rethymnon’s Old Town too.

Here, the Turkish traces are tangible in the wooden balconies and high Ottoman minarets shaping the skyline. The impressive Venetian Fortress, right by the sea, remains of Greece’s best examples of fortified castles.

To better discover the old town, it’s a great idea to book a stay in the area.

Avli Lounge is one of the most traditional boutique hotels in town and it has a remarkable restaurant where the Cretan diet is praised and celebrated with truly cutting-edge culinary ideas.

For an even more romantic stay, the adults-only Pepi Boutique Hotel has been receiving guests for years and has built a prestigious name in town.

A short trip towards the south of Rethymnon will take you through unique mountainous landscapes and traditional villages.

Visit historic monasteries active in the long years of fighting to oust different foreign rulers.

Whether they were the Venetians, the Ottomans, or the Nazi Occupation Forces, monasteries fought side by side with the Cretans to conquer their own freedom, which finally occurred in 1898.

The southern coast of Rethymnon (and of all Crete) is surrounded by the pristine Libyan sea.

The southern coasts of Crete are more isolated than the touristic North, meaning cleaner water, wilder landscapes, and a feeling of freedom hard to find anywhere else.

This is also the reason why most nudist beaches can be found on the southern coast. If you’re into sunbathing without a bikini, the southern beaches of Rethymnon are a great place to go.

Lasithi, East Crete

The easternmost region of Crete is Lasithi. Rather isolated and quite off-the-beaten-track, the region is home to magnificent beaches that you could even enjoy totally on your own during less crowded months.

The capital of Lasithi is Agios Nikolaos, a small town also on the northern coast of the island.

However, there are other cities you can check in the region which can prove to be excellent places to stay in order to drive around and explore. If you wish to visit the uninhabited island of Chrissi, it’s a good idea to stay in Ierapetra.

If instead, you want to discover the exotic Palm Beach of Vai, Sitia is a great city where to stay too.

A hotel in Agios Nikolaos is a great idea to visit the former leper island of Spinalonga or the exclusive resort town of Elounda.

One of the prettiest hotels in Agios Nikolaos is Porto Maltese Boutique Hotel, with a privileged view of Lake Voulismeni, which naturally flows towards the sea of Crete.

If you prefer to stay in a more exclusive area, Elounda is the place to be.

There’s no shortage of luxurious resorts when it comes to this small village, all of them facing the tranquil Gulf of Mirabello and boasting exclusive beaches and rooms that open directly to the sea.

Domes of Elounda is one of the most luxurious places to be not just on Crete, but all of Greece

What To Do in Crete (Top 5 Best)

There are hundreds of great things to do in Crete, from beach hopping to rip-roaring adventures, eating your way through the mouthwatering Cretan diet, or splurging in the wine scenario of the island.

It wasn’t easy narrowing this list down, but here are my top 5 choices for things to see and do on a stunning holiday in Crete.

1. Discover Chania’s Old Town

The Venetian atmosphere in the alleys of Chania’s Old Town will take you on a journey of wonder and discovery. The ancient city is divided into different areas, each of them with traits that build the eclectic identity of Chania.

The Venetian quarter is the most elegant part of town, with exclusive boutique hotels, traditional restaurants, and tiny souvenir shops that add a touch of color.

The old harbor, the Egyptian lighthouse, and the little Mosque right in front of the sea are some of the landmarks to check while walking in the area.

Towards the center of the old town, the former Jewish quarter, Zudecca, is home to the last remaining synagogue in Crete (Etz Hayyin), which is somewhat hidden but open to the public.

Entering this religious building from the 15th century is like entering into a forgotten oasis with a beautiful green garden, one that has left its tragic past behind.

The history of the Jewish community strived on the island for centuries but sadly disappeared from Crete during the Nazi occupation.

Moving towards the west of the city, the Turkish neighbourhood of Splantzia is a corner with a bohemian atmosphere, where life seems to run at a completely different pace.

A great way to explore the best of each quarter, the municipal market, and taste the local flavors, is to book a walking gastronomic tour of Chania.

2. Marvel at the Minoan Past of Crete

Probably one of the main reasons why tourists flock to Crete in the first place is to discover the wonders of the ancient civilizations that once populated the island.

The best place for such an adventure is the Minoan Palace of Knossos, just a few kilometers away from the center of Heraklion.

This massive archaeological site remains Greece’s most visited ancient settlement, right after the Acropolis of Athens.

It’s fairly easy to reach the archaeological site with local transport. The bus departs from the old bus station of Heraklion and leaves you right at the entrance gate of the site in less than 15 minutes.

However, for a better experience, book a guided tour of Knossos and learn everything about this unique place touring it with a certified tourist guide.

If you plan to do so, check for tours including a visit to the Archaeological Museum of Heraklion, the biggest Minoan collection you will be able to find on the island.

3. Visit the Beaches of Crete

Back in the region of Chania, there’s no shortage of stunning shores. Here you can swim, sunbathe, and enjoy a traditional beach holiday.

The fantastic Elafonisi is world-renowned for its pink sand. Yet, even more striking is the unique turquoise palette of the sea.

Located in the south of Chania, it takes about an hour and a half to reach this isolated area, but the landscape is worth the trip.

For a more adrenaline-driven experience, try spending a day in the exotic shores of Balos, a shallow, emerald lagoon that needs a somewhat difficult off-road drive to reach.

If you’re not in the mood for such an adventure, you can always visit with a day cruise. This way, you will also be able to discover the impressive island of Imeri Gramvousa and swim close to a forgotten shipwreck off its coast.

4. Explore The Mountains of Rethymnon

Driving through the valleys and mountains of Crete can be an exhilarating experience!

You’ll discover stunning gorges, forgotten villages, and impressive monasteries.

Rethymnon is a perfect region to do so. The Valley of Amari right next to Mount Psiloritis (Crete’s highest mountain, at 2,456 meters above sea level) is a great place to start.

Stop by some traditional villages such as Anogeia or Axos, or go all the way to the village of Zoniana where you can have some fun exploring the unique formations inside Sfendoni cave.

Going further, you can spend a few hours in the beautiful monastic complex of Preveli and hike all the way down to Preveli Beach, following the river while under the shade of Crete’s second palm grove.

5. Get Lost in East Crete

The remote region of Lasithi has plenty of opportunities for a fantastic holiday.

If you’re short of time, the area manages to concentrate the best of Crete offering a clear panorama of the local traditions, great isolated beaches, and unique mountain roads.

A trip along the Lasithi Plateau is a one-of-a-kind experience.

Lonesome and undiscovered, this elevated plane hides a fantastic landscape dotted with the last remaining windmills of Crete.

Go even further and reach the southeastern coast for true disconnection. The beaches of Xerokampos are virtually unknown to mass tourism and are the most secluded place to stay on Crete.

What & Where to Eat in Crete

One of the most enriching parts of any trip to Crete is definitely the local cuisine. Greek food is some of the best in the world — but Crete has its own unique ingredients.

With local cheese, olive oil, nuts, honey, phyllo pastries, pies, and proteins such as sheep, goat, snails, and lamb, you’ll never be hungry in Crete!

Fresh, seasonal, and full of taste and authenticity, the Mediterranean diet is perhaps one of the healthiest in the world. These are the four best restaurants in Crete, one for each of the regions.

Heraklion: Peskesi

Location: Kapetan Haralampi 6-8, Heraklion

Phone #: +30 28102 88887

Reservations: [email protected]

Rating on TripAdvisor: 4.5/5

This place is great both for lunch and dinner and it is popular both with locals and tourists.

Cretan cuisine is at the forefront in this restaurant which manages to combine traditional ingredients and local cooking methods, sprinkled with the fragrance of Cretan herbs. Be sure to book a table at any time of the year.

Chania: Chrisostomos

Location: Deukalion and Ikarous, Chania

Phone #: +30 28210 57053

Reservations: [email protected]

Rating on TripAdvisor: 4.5/5

Chrisostomos is one of the most traditional places to taste the authentic flavors of Crete and discover some fantastic local dishes, many of them still cooked only at home.

Their menu includes a great selection of dishes from the indomitable region of Sfakia, pies baked in a wooden oven, abundant use of thyme honey, and savoury Cretan cheeses.

Rethymnon: Avli Rustic Fine Dining

Location: Xanthoudidou 22 & Radamanthios, Rethymnon

Phone #: +30 28310 26213

Reservations: [email protected]

Rating on TripAdvisor: 4/5

When in Rethymnon, Avli is the place to go in order to discover the most authentic tastes of Crete.

Set in the romantic herb garden, the restaurant offers authentic cuisine and one of the richest wine lists on the island. They have a unique Cretan menu as well as interesting cooking classes to learn everything about how the Cretans cook.

Agios Nikolaos: Karnagio

Location: Konstantinou Paleologou 24, Ag. Nikolaos

Phone #: +30 28410 25968

Reservations: only by phone

Rating on TripAdvisor: 4.5/5

Karnagio has turned into another must-visit landmark in Agios Nikolaos, so much so that you need to be ready to wait in line if you don’t book in advance.

Products are sourced from local farmers and are transformed into unique, colorful, Cretan dishes with a superb twist of originality.

Best Beaches in Crete

Arguably one of the main reasons to visit Crete is the stunning variety of beaches you can visit on the island, each offering something different — from shallow sandy beaches to rocky coasts. Some of the top beaches in all of Greece can be found on this island.

The beaches of the northern coast of Crete tend to be more wavy and windy than the south. However, there are a few well-protected peninsulas and bays that are ideal for swimming.

Head to the west and discover the bay of Falassarna for some adrenaline-inducing waters sports. The wind conditions make the area ideal to chase the waves and enjoy the best sunset on the island.

I’ve already mentioned the beautiful pink sand beach of Elafonisi and the superb Balos Beach and Lagoon both of them in the region of Chania, but there are many other beaches in other areas that will blow your mind with their beauty.

Here are three of the lesser-known, top beaches in Crete:

1. Lentas Beach, Heraklion

At this remote beach south of Heraklion, you’ll find the most stunning landscape of sand dunes and blue water.

Although it can be somewhat hard to reach, Lentas is a fantastic place for isolation and complete relaxation — making it one of the best beaches in Crete.

The beach lacks any sort of amenities so it’s a great idea to pack your own necessities to spend a day in the area. The landscape is certainly an amazing treat for anyone who visits.

2. Triopetra Beach, Rethymnon

This beach is also located south of the island, in the region of Rethymnon.

It’s not as isolated as others, but the shore is wide and spacious making you feel alone even when thousands of tourists are on the same beach as you.

The three impressive rock formations that the beach is named after are located on the extreme east of the island. There, three uniquely shaped massive stones jut out of the sea forming a bizarre landscape.

It’s possible to rent sunbeds and umbrellas from the few tavernas that also sell drinks, snacks, and food. All you need to pack is your beach towel and your sunscreen.

3. Voulisma Beach, Lasithi

Also known as Golden Beach, this unique bay is located on the Mirabello Gulf, just a couple of kilometers away from the coastal town of Agios Nikolaos. Voulisma is a fantastic beach with a lush green backdrop.

The transparent waters are virtually waveless, which makes the place ideal for families with kids or for just lounging on your inflatable mattress for hours.

There is a great taverna serving snacks and drinks, so again, just pack your towel!

Top Tours in Crete

If you’ve had enough of beaches, road trips, and adventures in the mountains, organized tours are a great way to meet new people, learn something new and discover places you would otherwise have not been able to enjoy.

Gastronomic tours are a highlight of any trip to Crete. You can choose from wine tasting and winery tours, cheese-making experiences, cooking lessons, and gastronomic visits to the local markets.

You can also book sailing trips to Crete’s closest islands, such as Chrissi or Gavdos.

Cultural trips will take you to discover forgotten archaeological treasures, ruins, and ancient settlements, allowing you to discover more about the magnificent and puzzling past of Crete.

Here are 3 of the absolute best excursions in Crete:

1. Knossos Palace Skip-the-Line Entry with Guided Walking Tour

GetYourGuide Rating: 4.8/5

Cost: €40 per person

How to book: Online. Click here for details.

One of the top tours on Crete is the one that takes you to visit the Archaeological Palace of Knossos. This is one of the main reasons why people choose Crete for their holiday.

Visitors eventually discover that there is more to the island than Knossos (which is considered to be the cradle of western civilization), but usually, travel planning for Crete starts with this site.

2. Authentic Greek Food Cooking Class in Heraklion

GetYourGuide Rating: 5/5

Cost: €340 (for a group of two people)

How to book: Online. Click here for details.

Cretan food is probably the second-best reason to travel to Crete, and what better way to explore the tastes of Crete than learning how to cook the local staples with a Cretan as a teacher?!

Roll up your sleeves and get your hands on the dough to bake Cretan pies, or stuff some delicious Mediterranean tomatoes and sprinkle with a generous dose of authentic extra virgin olive oil from Crete.

If you’re a foodie, taking a cooking class in Crete will be a highlight of your holiday.

3. Scuba Experience I-Discover Scuba

GetYourGuide Rating: 5/5

Cost: From €79 per person

How to book: Online. Click here for details.

No matter your age or your ability at sea, this experience can be enjoyed without any certification. This is an excellent way to get to know the marine life of Crete.

But also to learn how to breathe and communicate underwater with zero gravity. With this discover scuba tour, diving is accessible to everyone over 10 years old.

When to Visit Crete, Greece

The island is a perfect destination all year round.

Summers are long and dry, with temperatures that can be quite high during the months of July and August. This is the peak season and therefore the island tends to be packed with tourists.

Accommodation can be hard to find and somewhat expensive if you do not book well in advance.

Restaurants and attractions are jam-packed so you might find that is often necessary to wait in line or fight for a free parking spot.

Yet, despite all of this, the high season in Crete is great for nightlife, beach parties, and meeting friends from all over the world.

Both autumn and spring, the shoulder seasons, are my favorite times of the year to fully enjoy Crete. The temperatures are milder, but going to the beach is still pleasant.

Late autumn and early spring can be extremely hot with no rain.

The winter period is not long, but it can be very cold and rainy. The highest peaks of Crete receive lots of snow and are popular places to go skiing and snowboarding.

Driving is not really dangerous, but some roads can be inaccessible due to snow and rain. Take that into consideration if you plan to drive around in winter.

Crete’s most important cities, such as Chania, Heraklion, and Rethymnon don’t close for winter! There are still plenty of shops and restaurants open as well as several hotels and studios for rent, making it a great place to visit in January.

These three cities are home to some of Greece’s most important universities, so the island has a lively population of young adults coming from all over Greece to study.

December, January, and February are not the most popular months among tourists, but if you’re not a beach fanatic, you will definitely have fun.

How to Get Around Crete

Probably the most comfortable way to visit Crete is to do so by renting your own vehicle and having the freedom of reaching every corner of the island.

The public bus system is quite good and it will safely take you from one main city to the other.

Still, many of the southern coasts of Crete remain quite isolated when it comes to bus schedules, and many villages are hard to reach if you don’t have your own wheels.

Public transport is the answer if you don’t really want to drive around Crete. But if you’re looking to get to the most secret corners of the island, driving is the way to go since taking a taxi can be somewhat expensive to travel long hours.

Is Crete Safe?

Many people ask if Crete is a safe place to visit.

This is a very common question when people decide to book their holiday on the island. Other than the occasional pickpocketing (bound to happen in any crowded tourist destination), visiting Crete is very safe.

Of course, and out of precaution, it’s always a must to book solid travel insurance for your trip.

That being said, locals are incredibly hospitable and helpful, always willing to offer assistance to anyone in need. Most of them speak fairly good English or are open to finding someone to help you that has the right language skills you need.

Now You’re Ready to Visit Crete!

There you have it, a guide to visiting my home, and one of the top places to see in Greece. Whether you’re into lazing on a beach, exploring hidden villages, or sampling tasty food, there’s something for you in Crete.

For more on travelling to Greece, make sure you check out this Ultimate Travel Guide to Greece. It’s jampacked with information on where to go, when to go, things to do, how to get around, must-try foods, health and safety, pros and cons, and much more! Everything you need to know to make your trip to Greece a memorable one.

Note: Images in this article were sourced on Shutterstock.

The post Crete, Greece: The Complete Travel Guide appeared first on Goats On The Road.

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yahoonews7 · 4 years

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PARIS—What Donald Trump refused to do—rein in the ruthless crown prince of Saudi Arabia—the coronavirus pandemic seems to be accomplishing, at least in the short term. But the prince also exploits it for his own ends. Since 34-year-old Mohammed bin Salman started appropriating power from his enfeebled father, King Salman, five years ago, he has sought fame as a visionary reformer but gained infamy as a tyrant waging a fruitless war, jailing and torturing potential rivals, and employing the sycophant who butchered (not too strong a word) Washington Post columnist Jamal Khashoggi. Still, MBS, as he’s known, got a pass from Trump in exchange for promised billions in arms deals.But the pandemic is not so kind. It has afflicted at least 20 senior members of the Saudi royal family, including the governor of Riyadh, according to a senior prince and another well-connected Saudi contacted by The Daily Beast. There are widespread concerns among health workers and epidemiologists that it will spread through the much less privileged parts of Saudi society, including a large population of laborers and servants brought in from other countries. Saudis Put Jamal Khashoggi’s Murder Behind Them With Death Sentences and a Three-Day RaveThis comes on top of multiple calamities created or made worse by MBS. But over the last few days he has moved to try resolve some of his self-inflicted messes, while continuing to crack down on anyone in the kingdom who might question his authority.One of MBS’s recent rash acts was to start a punishing oil price war when Russian President Vladimir Putin refused to limit production. The oil market plunged to levels not seen in years, dragging down world equity markets (and sending a psycho-political shockwave into the Dow-Jones-addicted White House). But on Thursday, the Saudi-led Organization for the Petroleum Exporting Countries (OPEC) and Russia agreed to major production cuts. There are still some issues to be worked out, but MBS is no longer racing toward the abyss.The war in Yemen is more complicated, but there, too, we’ve seen a change of course. When MBS entered that conflict in 2015 he thought he could win in a matter of weeks with his vast arsenal of American weaponry, but the war has since become a suppurating wound on Saudi Arabia’s southern border. His Houthi adversaries there have taken to launching Iranian-built missiles at targets as far away as Riyadh, and hit the enormous Saudi oil facilities at Abqaiq last September with devastating effect. But the greatest risk comes from a biological threat that is hard to control anywhere, and may be impossible to contain in Yemen. That only one case of COVID-19 has been reported from there—on Saturday, April 10—is no consolation.Since 2018 the United Nations has identified Yemen as the scene of Earth’s greatest humanitarian crisis, with some 80 percent of the population in need of assistance, hundreds of thousands of malnourished children, and a rampant cholera epidemic that has infected more than 1 million people. Such conditions make effective monitoring of the COVID-19 pandemic extremely difficult or impossible.A Saudi military spokesman announced in an official statement Wednesday that the Saudi-led coalition would begin a two-week ceasefire on Thursday so all parties could “discuss proposals, steps, and mechanisms for sustainable ceasefire” and “for a comprehensive political solution in Yemen.”This comes after United Nations Secretary-General Antonio Guterres called last month for a global cessation of hostilities during the fight against the novel coronavirus. The world faces “a common enemy— COVID-19,” which doesn’t care “about nationality or ethnicity, faction or faith,” he said. Guterres welcomed the Saudi ceasefire: “This can help to advance efforts towards peace as well as the country’s response to the COVID-19 pandemic.”The New York Times reported on Wednesday under the headline “Coronavirus Invades Saudi Inner Sanctum” that one of the kingdom’s best hospitals has been preparing to prioritize VIPs with the disease.“As many as 150 royals in the kingdom are now believed to have contracted the virus, including members of its lesser branches, according to a person close to the family,” the Times reported. The story went on to say the governor of Riyadh, Prince Faisal bin Bandar bin Abdulaziz Al Saud, was in intensive care, that the king has retreated to an island, and MBS is holed up in the environs of his planned city of the future, Neom.But Saudis contacted by The Daily Beast, including a senior member of the royal family, dispute these details. One who has close connections with several Saudi princes reports, “I know many individuals having had it, but it seems that the figure in itself is somewhat arbitrary. Bearing in mind that there are over 15,000 royals it is indeed possible, although I’m just not sure where they got the number from. It was widely known that the governor had it.”One of the kingdom’s most senior princes told The Daily Beast on Friday that “20 members of the family have been diagnosed with corona. They are in different towns. The King Faisal Specialist Hospital is not reserved for the family. It treats all Saudi citizens. The NYT is off base on this one.” He added that the king is in Riyadh, “and the governor of Riyadh left the hospital three days ago.”But whatever the precise number of royal casualties, there is no question MBS has been forced to take the coronavirus threat to his kingdom, and to his rule, very seriously.Within its borders, the Saudi government acted more quickly than most regimes around the world to limit the advance of the disease, and there are good reasons for that.Another coronavirus epidemic, Middle East Respiratory Syndrome (MERS), was first spotted in the kingdom in 2012 and may have originated in camels, according to the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. It eventually spread to other countries, including the United States, but much less widely than COVID-19 because it was much more deadly, and therefore easier to spot. All told, as of January the World Health Organization counted 866 deaths worldwide from MERS, mostly in Saudi Arabia. In fact, cases continue to erupt there, and of those infected in the kingdom, the death rate is more than 37 percent.So when Saudi and global health officials saw COVID-19 on the Asian horizon at the beginning of this year, they were quick to act, and MBS dictated radical measures. For the moment, the Saudi government has notified the World Health Organization officially about 3,651 confirmed COVID-19 infections and 47 deaths in what are identified as “clusters of cases,” a rubric that suggests they are, or can be, contained.The exercise of absolute power does have its uses in such circumstances, but it has not been pretty. MBS has used it to serve his regional and domestic agendas. In Iran, on the other side of the Gulf, the COVID-19 epidemic was raging, but largely under-reported, before the first case was recorded in Saudi Arabia. So MBS was quick to blame illicit travel to Iran as the source of the disease. On March 8, after 11 cases were recorded in al-Qatif in the largely Shiite Eastern Province, where the Saudi rulers are always on the lookout for Iranian subversion, MBS quarantined the whole city.Yasmine Farouk, writing for the Carnegie Foundation, notes that “an official statement accused Iran of ‘direct responsibility’ for the spread of the virus, while commentators in the media and online also accused Saudi Arabia’s foes, Qatar and Turkey, of deliberately mismanaging the crisis.”MBS, unlike any of his predecessors, has hobbled the country’s ultra-conservative religious establishment. As a result he was able to close the grand mosques at Mecca and Medina while canceling the lesser year-round pilgrimages (umrah) and leaving open the possibility that the huge annual pilgrimage, the Hajj, which has a fixed date on the religious calendar and is scheduled for July this year, will be postponed.But MBS also took advantage of the world’s preoccupation with the pandemic last month to move against the most eligible challengers to his rule, former Crown Prince Mohammed bin Nayef, and MBS's uncle,Ahmed bin Abdelaziz, who is his king's full brother. Both were arrested for allegedly plotting a coup, a charge many analysts find implausible. “There is no evidence of any plot,” according to The Economist.So, is MBS a changed man? Certainly not. But he has shown that he can adapt to the changing circumstances imposed by a global pandemic—while exploiting them for his own ends.Read more at The Daily Beast.Get our top stories in your inbox every day. Sign up now!Daily Beast Membership: Beast Inside goes deeper on the stories that matter to you. Learn more.

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businessweekme · 5 years

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There’s More to Cruising Than the Caribbean

For cruise passengers, 2019 is shoring up to be a particularly exciting year. Not only are ships returning to places that have been perceived as politically sensitive in recent years—such as Turkey and Egypt—they’re also heading on increasingly remote voyages, to places that feel like the ends of the Earth. Here, the seafaring trips to prioritize in 2019.

(Don’t love cruising? Try our list of the world’s most compelling destinations for 2019 instead.)

Cuba

Havana has been drawing hundreds of thousands of mass market cruisers since restrictions on U.S. travel were eased in 2016. This year luxury lines join the party, offering deeper experiences and spending more time in ports than the larger ships. SeaDream Yacht Club—known for its casual atmosphere and extreme pampering from the crew—heads to Cuba this month with the 112-passenger SeaDream II, sailing between Havana and the French-founded city of Cienfuegos. Among its port calls is Isla de la Juventud, Cuba’s second-largest island, where you can snorkel among sponges and corals in the Punta Frances Marine National Park before returning to your ship for a standout Thai massage.

SeaDream is hardly the only plush way to visit Cuba by ship. Silversea launches a series of five voyages in February, and Seabourn begins sailing to Cuba in the fall. Bonus: Havana celebrates its 500th anniversary in November, making for tons of festivals, concerts, art exhibitions, and other special events.

SeaDream II sailing, from $5,999 per person for seven days

Egypt

While the country is rebounding from a tourism slump that began with 2011’s Arab Spring, and this year luxury lines are returning to Egypt, meaning your World Cruise or Middle East itinerary will actually stop there rather than just pass through via the Suez Canal. Ocean lines such as Regent Seven Seas Cruises, Oceania Cruises, and Silversea will call on Safaga, with access to Luxor and the Valley of the Kings—albeit on a dusty 124-mile bus transfer from the Red Sea through the desert—in the spring and fall.

River lines are exploring farther afield, stopping not just in Cairo and Luxor, but in archaeologically spectacular Aswan as well. Book a top suite on the 42-passenger Oberoi Philae, a steamwheeler replica that’s chartered by companies such as Lindblad Expeditions, and you can lounge in your own open-air whirlpool while pretending you’re Cleopatra on the Nile.

Passage through Egypt sailing with Lindblad Expeditions/National Geographic on the Oberoi Philae, from $8,480 (top suites from $13,260) for 13 days

Greenland

One of the most remote places on Earth, Arctic Greenland will be a hot spot with cruisers in 2019. Until recently it’s only been possible to explore the area’s untouched fjords, glaciers, colorful towns, and Viking sites on basic expedition ships. Now, new ships are being purpose-built to serve as base camps in icy waters. Among them, Norway-based Hurtigruten’s hybrid electric, 500-passenger Roald Amundsen, has a nifty underwater drone delivering video from down below and an infinity pool up on top. From either of those vantages—or even closer-up on excursions—you’ll be able to spot humpbacks and other whales, or see the northern lights high above.

Viking Heritage Cruise, from $7,305 for 14 days

Galápagos

Cruising has always been the best way to see these remote islands, where you can snorkel and kayak with sea lions, get up close to sea iguanas, and go eye-to-eye with blue-footed boobies—all animals that are seemingly unfazed by your presence. And while there’s no need to rough it, this year will see the introduction of several ultrasmall ships to make the trips even more intimate. Most notable is the 100-passenger, all-suite Celebrity Flora, which premieres in June with special cabanas for overnight glamping. If you want to go even smaller, check out the new 16- to 20-passenger yachts available from Adventure Life.

Celebrity Flora sailings, from $8,999 for seven days

Alaska

A record-breaking 1.36 million cruisers are expected to arrive in Alaska from April to October this year—up from 1 million in 2017. Don’t let occasional crowds scare you away, though. Seeing and hearing a glacier calve a house-size chunk into the sea is an experience that never gets old, and those increased tourism numbers simply mean there are more ways to do it than ever.

Princess Cruises is celebrating 50 years of bringing guests to see the flowing ice; Cunard returns after 20 years away; and Viking Ocean and Azamara Club Cruises are both making their debut in the Last Frontier State. (Pick Viking if you want more inclusions in your fare, Azamara if you’re looking for an intimate sailing experience, Cunard for its old-world glamour.)

Alaska-bound fans of giant ships with whiz-bang amenities will find two new options this season, as well: the Norwegian Joy, with its top-deck racetrack, and the Ovation of the Seas, complete with robot bartenders.

Cunard’s Queen Elizabeth sailings, from $1,549 ($9,304 for the luxurious Queens Grill suites) for 10 days

Turkey

After an attempted military coup in 2016, most cruise companies diverted their ships from Turkey to Greece. That pattern is slowly being reversed as tourism to Turkey picks back up. On the cruising front, that may have something to do with Turkish government financial incentives, which now run from $25 to $45 per passenger, according to ports operator Global Ports Holding.

See the impressive Blue Mosque and Roman Hippodrome with all-inclusive luxury line Regent Seven Seas (offering overnight stays beginning in June), and you’ll still have time to go on a shopping spree at the Grand Bazaar. Or try voyages on Regent, Holland America Line, or Royal Caribbean, which are all adding back stops in Kusadasi; it’s where you’ll get to see the Greco-Roman city of Ephesus and walk the same marble streets as Roman General Mark Antony.

Athens to Venice on Seven Seas Voyager in June, from $8,999 for 11 days

Papua New Guinea and West Papua, Indonesia

Even for travelers who feel they’ve seen it all, the prospect of sailing the remote far west Pacific sounds like a thrilling opportunity to encounter communities far removed from the modern world. Australian small-ship line Coral Expeditions will make that prospect a reality when it unveils its 120-passenger expedition ship Coral Adventurer in May, sailing from Darwin to West Papua, Indonesia. The route is identical to the one Dutch explorer Abel Janszoon Tasman took 375 years ago, on his second great voyage. Additional itineraries add Papua New Guinea, the other half of the jungle-covered island, where you can learn about spirit masks and dip in hot springs before retreating to the tasteful comforts of the ship, whose wine cellar includes vintage Australian reds.

Coral Expeditions isn’t the only company showcasing the archipelago: French yacht line Ponant will sail the region in May with its swanky new vessel, La Laperouse. (You know it as the ship with an underwater bar and lounge.)

Coral Adventurer sailings, from $6,815 for 10 days

Antarctica

Receding glaciers may add a sense of urgency for travelers who wish to explore the seventh continent. For a firsthand look at what’s going on—and to understand the much broader potential global threat from the melting—cruise lines explore Antarctica’s icy waters from November to March. You’ll approach icebergs and glaciers, where the only sound you hear may be cracking ice. Sightings of orca and sperm whales, elephant seals, and human-size penguins are part of the scene. This year, so are new expedition ships with lots of toys, such as the 200-passenger Scenic Eclipse, equipped with a seven-seat submarine and two seven-seat helicopters for exclusive remote explorations of the white continent.

Scenic Eclipse sailings, from $18,095 for 11 days

The post There’s More to Cruising Than the Caribbean appeared first on Bloomberg Businessweek Middle East.

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newestbalance · 6 years

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Turkey’s Presidential Election Will Test Love for Erdogan’s Megaprojects

From soaring bridges to a giant mosque to plans for the world’s biggest airport, President Recep Tayyip Erdogan of Turkey has used gargantuan building projects as an engine of growth and a signature way of leaving an indelible stamp on his nation.

As he campaigns for re-election on Sunday, Mr. Erdogan has promised his most ambitious project yet: a canal that would bisect the country and create a Turkish-owned trade route, which he says would make Turkey a great power and leave a legacy for the history books.

“What makes Panama is the Panama Canal,” Mr. Erdogan told supporters at a rally in Istanbul last weekend. “Suez is the biggest source of revenue for Egypt. Let’s have a vote. God willing the Istanbul Canal will be another fresh breath for our city.”

The election is shaping up as an up-or-down vote on how Mr. Erdogan has transformed Turkey during 15 years in charge. He has amassed sultanlike powers, jailed political enemies and trimmed civil liberties, even as average annual economic growth of 5 percent has spawned and nurtured a middle class.

But the most obvious way Mr. Erdogan has left his mark stands before the eyes of any visitor: grandiose monuments and infrastructure investments in just about every town.

There are signs that the public is weary of Mr. Erdogan’s building mania. The canal is the latest dividing line between those who see Mr. Erdogan’s projects as visionary, and those who say the works are guided by an insatiable construction industry that has enriched his ruling circle, raising questions about his management of a faltering economy.

Mr. Erdogan called the election a year and a half ahead of schedule, hoping to beat the economic downturn nipping at his heels. A once-fractured opposition has united against him, making it increasingly uncertain whether Mr. Erdogan will meet the 50 percent threshold to win outright and avoid a runoff against his top challenger.

Mr. Erdogan counts his building feats at virtually every election rally and warns that his opponents plan to tear down everything his Justice and Development Party, or A.K.P., has built. The party “built 284,000 classrooms,” he declared recently in the town of Mugla, adding “Are you going to demolish them too?”

He lists his big canal project in first place on his campaign posters. Not one shovel has been put in the ground, but Mr. Erdogan has vowed to begin construction immediately if he is re-elected as president and assumes sweeping new powers.

All of his megaprojects have been about creating symbols of his strength as he aims for a place in the pantheon of great Turkish leaders, from the Ottoman sultans to the founder of the republic, Mustafa Kemal Ataturk.

But the 28-mile canal linking the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara — estimated to cost $15 billion, though critics say the figure is closer to $65 billion, and displace some 800,000 people — has been dubbed his “crazy idea” since Mr. Erdogan first conceived it seven years ago.

“It means crazy, wow, in a good sense,” said Mehmet Akarca, head of Turkey’s general directorate for press and information and an adviser to the president. “It will make money, and ships will use it, and they will pay tolls to use it.”

That is the hope, at least, though many doubt whether it will ever happen — or whether it will work if it does.

Environmentalists warn that the canal would damage the ecosystem so much that Istanbul could become uninhabitable. Archaeologists caution that it would threaten a top-class Paleolithic site. Economists say the project is not financially viable.

“It’s like playing Moses,” said Serkan Taycan, an artist and opponent of the canal who has mapped the area that would be disturbed.

Ozgur Unluhisarcikli, the Ankara director for the German Marshall Fund of the United States, a research organization, credits Mr. Erdogan for building infrastructure that has helped Turkey’s rapid urbanization by linking cities to one another and to their suburbs. The construction sector has also provided millions of jobs to Turkey’s largely uneducated work force.

“One aspect of the big projects is that they are generating growth,” Mr. Unluhisarcikli said.

But Mr. Erdogan’s opponents say his economic model is dubious, even corrupt.

Abdullatif Sener, a former deputy prime minister, has alleged that Mr. Erdogan’s way of governing is all about the profit that the president and his close circle can gain in kickbacks.

Mr. Sener was a co-founder of the Justice and Development Party, as was Mr. Erdogan, but he resigned from the party in 2008 because of corruption, he says, and is now running for Parliament with the opposition Republican People’s Party.

“They don’t think about the concerns of the citizens,” Mr. Sener said of the government at a campaign rally in Aziziye, in central Turkey. “They think about ‘How can I make my friend, my family, my close circle, my buddy richer.’ With this mentality, this country could not escape disaster.”

Mr. Erdogan has accused his opponents of peddling lies. “We invested billions in Istanbul, and now they say we robbed the country?” he said last week at a rally in Istanbul.

Others criticize Mr. Erdogan for prioritizing construction over industry and trade, which would generate more income.

“We are not using the resources in the best way to earn money,” Durmus Yilmaz, a former chief of the Turkish central bank and a co-founder of a new opposition party, the Good Party, said in an interview at his home in Ankara.

“This is all financed through foreign borrowing,” he said. “Are these investments generating enough income so we can pay back the loans?”

Turkish industry has shrunk since 2002, when Mr. Erdogan first came to power — to 16 percent of gross domestic product from 22 percent — and the construction sector has grown in its place.

The decline has left new ports and tunnels underutilized and Turkey lacking enough exports to finance its ballooning foreign debt, Mr. Yilmaz said.

Then there are the extravagant projects — such as the presidential palace, four times the size of Versailles — that seem to be more about Mr. Erdogan’s legacy than profitability.

On Istanbul’s highest hill above the Bosporus, Mr. Erdogan is building the white marble Camlica mosque, appointing it with six minarets, the insignia of greatness.

Many wonder if he plans to build a mausoleum for himself beside his project, as did the sultans of old.

“Some are white elephants, that’s very clear,” said Refet Gurkaynak, a professor of economics at Bilkent University in Ankara.

The government has said that growth has been more than 7 percent in the last two quarters, but the economy is already stumbling, Mr. Gurkaynak said.

“We are in recession,” he said, and “we are going to have a painful recession.”

Housing construction has reached its limit, and two million apartments are unsold in the country. Construction work is grinding to a halt, and companies are offering real estate on soft loans or barter.

In such a climate, Mr. Gurkaynak said, “Canal Istanbul makes no sense whatsoever and will be impossible to finance.”

It does not help that the proposed canal route would run parallel to the Bosporus, where transit is free under the 1936 Montreux Convention.

Officials insist there will be enough traffic to make the canal profitable. But Mr. Gurkaynak and others argue that shippers would be unlikely to pay when there is a free passage a few miles away.

New oil and gas pipelines are already reducing tanker traffic through the straits, according to a report by Istanbul’s Chamber of Environmental Engineers.

The looming pitfalls are familiar. Two of Mr. Erdogan’s much vaunted bridges — the Osman Gazi Bridge over the Gulf of Izmit, and the Yavuz Sultan Selim Bridge, which spans the Bosporus — have little traffic partly because of the high tolls charged. The government is paying the shortfall.

Mr. Akarca, the presidential adviser, defended the projects’ financing system, which has been mostly a variety of public-private partnerships.

“Turkey actually is not borrowing any money,” he said. “These are the Turkish firms that are borrowing money; it is individual debt.”

But the government has guaranteed the loans and the revenue, so some economists have said that the financing model is enriching private firms while saddling the country with debt.

Other resistance to Mr. Erdogan’s building spree is centered on the environment and conservation.

To the horror of archaeologists, Mr. Erdogan started the $4 billion Marmaray railway project beneath Istanbul’s historic peninsula, and built a highway along the Byzantine city walls of a World Heritage site, over Unesco protests.

Residents have pushed back against projects that have favored construction magnates, most prominently at the central Taksim Square, where huge protests exploded in May 2013 to save the park from commercial developers.

The protests, which left eight people dead and hundreds more injured, drew many citizens to oppose Mr. Erdogan’s headlong drive to modernize Turkey’s cities.

Yet instead of listening to them, Mr. Erdogan doubled down on his projects. Taksim became a symbol of his determination to impose his will.

“He needed opponents and victories and symbols,” said Mucella Yapici, an activist and a member of Istanbul’s Chamber of Architects. “Taksim is the most important.”

Last month, Istanbul’s cultural center, an emblem of Ataturk’s openness to the West, was pulled down at the site, and a vast domed mosque raised opposite it, dwarfing Ataturk’s statue and robbing the square of its republican nature.

“This is an attempt to erase the collective memory of the space,” Ms. Yapici said.

Much more stands to be erased in the canal project — entire towns and villages, as well as the ecology of Istanbul’s main water source.

The greatest concern is the potentially huge inflow of nutrient-rich water from the Black Sea, which scientists say would encourage the growth of algae and kill life in Sea of Marmara.

The Bosporus is so deep that it allows a countercurrent. The canal would have no such balancing effect.

One scientist has warned that Istanbul will come to stink of bad eggs from hydrogen sulfide. Other environmentalists warn that the vital wetlands used by migratory birds will be destroyed.

The government held a single meeting in March with landowners to introduce an environmental impact assessment. It claimed the canal would have negligible effect.

Istanbul’s Chamber of Environmental Engineers produced its own assessment, warning that the canal project — which includes plans for a new city for as many as three million people — would cause irreversible harm.

“In the long run we will lose the Sea of Marmara and do damage to the Black Sea,” said Sedat Durel, an environmental engineer who worked on the report.

Mr. Durel estimated that as many as 800,000 people would be displaced.

They include several thousand Crimean Tatars, refugees from the Crimean War who settled in the Sazlidere Valley west of Istanbul 150 years ago, after being granted the land by the sultan of the Ottoman Empire.

Their descendants, mostly farmers and factory workers, are anticipating with some dread any official orders to be uprooted again.

“Of course the canal is important,” said Oktay Teke, the mayor of Sazlibosna, a village amid meadows beside the river. “But what about all these villages? What will happen?”

The post Turkey’s Presidential Election Will Test Love for Erdogan’s Megaprojects appeared first on World The News.

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cleopatrarps · 6 years