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thehikingviking · 3 years

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Ilamatepec (Santa Ana Volcano), Izalco & Cerro Verde, The Three Volcanoes

When I first planned my trip to El Salvador, Ilamatepec, also known as Volcán de Santa Ana, was my primary hiking objective. I was originally supposed to climb this peak on my first weekend in the country when we were staying in Coatepeque, however there were some last minute complications due to the national election, so this peak was pushed to the second weekend. This presented some challenges because we moved to El Zonte during the week, which meant a lot longer drive to and from our residence. This created a lot of stress for Asaka because in order for her to join us, the baby needed to come on the drive to breastfeed throughout the day. I proposed that Grandma could come with us and watch the baby while Asaka, Zach and I hiked together. She was very concerned with my proposition, but I strongly encouraged her to trust my judgement. Concerns were only amplified once I learned that Nahuat Tours could no longer guarantee that I could visit the true summit. Most tourists ascend the Santa Ana Volcano Trail from El Tibet, which takes hikers to the lower southern summit. Continuing on towards the northern crater rim is now technically not allowed due endangered hawk closures along the east and west crater rims. While it is probably easy to sneak off by yourself and “unknowingly” hike through the closure (I didn’t see any signs saying not to proceed), I didn’t want to risk going all the way there just to be turned around. It is also recommended that foreigners do this with a local policeman to deter muggings (In my opinion this is totally unnecessary). If a policeman is present, you are at his whim, and sneaking off is more unlikely. Gerardo saved the day, confirming that it was possible to reach the northern summit if starting from Los Andes, which is a protected nature area on the north side of the mountain, however the road to Los Andes was unknown and potentially impassable. Erick reserved us a 4WD vehicle and a couple of policeman. After all the back and forth, I could finally see things falling into place.

When the morning finally came, Zach, Asaka, Leif, Grandma and I all hopped in the van and began our long drive towards the volcanoes. We stopped alongside the road near Lomas De San Marcelino where we waited for our police escort. Once they arrived, we said goodbye to Leif and Grandma who planned to wait at Cerro Verde, while Asaka, Zach and I jumped in the truck. We followed a dirt road all the way to the northeast side of the volcano. I never felt the road was all that difficult, however I would expect a different story during the rainy season. After arriving at Los Andes, we discussed the plan with the policemen. We all thought it made sense to climb to the summit and descend back down to the standard trailhead at El Tibet on the south side, and the policemen made no mention of the hawk closures. That’s the thing with El Salvador; a lot depends on the mood of the local authorities that day. I understand now why Nahuat Tours couldn’t guarantee me the true summit initially, but they did everything they could to give us the best chance possible.

Los Andes was a beautiful, yet neglected little complex of buildings and grass fields. At the trailhead register, we were the only non Salvadorans to sign in.

Erick showed us the florifundia. He said if you smoke it, you will stay high forever.

After getting lost right from the very beginning, Gerardo quickly corrected himself and we started up the very well defined trail.

We started hiking through the very peaceful jungle. We passed a couple locals with machetes, but they were very friendly. The policemen were simply a formality, and I would feel very safe climbing the volcano without them. I thought some of the dried up river beds were interesting. In the rainy season, each one is probably a torrent, and there were precarious log crossings placed across the small gullies that could be used in times of high water.

My energy was sapped. As a cold weather hiker, I was feeling the effect of the heat and humidity from the start.

Zach and Asaka led the way while I lagged behind, and even further behind me trudged the two police officers. Apparently all the young and in shape policemen are needed in the big cities, and the ones who are close to retirement get sent to the comfortable deployment at the national park. It wasn’t long before we could no longer hear them chatting behind us. We stopped shortly at a small structure about halfway up the mountain, but not long enough for the policemen to catch up.

-Dead Armadillo

Vegetation became shorter and thinner as we neared the summit. The humidity decreased once out of the jungle. A slight breeze made me feel much better.

The crater rim was visible ahead. The gradient had become much more gradual, and I greatly enjoyed this section of the hike.

We reached the crater rim and the caldera became visible below.

We turned left here and hiked up one last hill until we reach the summit of Ilamatepec.

To the east were El Picacho and El Boqueron, also known as San Salvador Volcano.

To the south was the crater lake.

To the west was the highest point in the Sonsonate Department; a slightly lower point along the crater rim.

To the north was Volcán Chingo, which is probably the most absurd name for a peak that I have ever heard.

I was thankful to spend such a special moment with my beautiful wife.

After about 15 minutes or so, our two policemen showed up.

I wanted to venture over to the Sonsonate County High Point, but Gerardo wasn’t too keen on that idea. He had already done a lot to enable us to visit the true summit so I let it slide. We enjoyed the summit for some time then continued along the eastern crater rim.

Down below to our left was Lago de Cuatepeque, where we stayed the week prior. It is basically a tropical Crater Lake.

To our right was the caldera pond.

A trail ran atop the crater rim. Some sections were steep, but nothing any able bodied person couldn’t handle.

We reached the southern summit where there was a large group of people congregating. There was even a guy selling ice cream up here. We wasted little time among the tourists and began our way down to El Tibet. Cerro Verde and Izalco stood beyond.

-Maguay Plants

The next 2.5 miles down to the car were spent avoiding vast crowds of people. Boy was I happy to have gone up from Los Andes. I still was glad to experience this side of the volcano as well, as the climate and vegetation were completely different on the south facing side. We went from jungle to desert, and it was almost as if we had experienced two different volcanoes.

-Mirador Fin Del Mundo

-Trail to the Crater

Once the crowds cleared a bit, we were able to jog down the rest of the trail. Things were going swimmingly until Asaka decided to slide head first into second base. She was covered with dirt, but uninjured.

We stopped to sip some water at a visitor center of sorts. The southern summit stood above us.

The last half mile had us descend through forests and coffee plantations until we reached the car at the trailhead.

We completed the six miles up from Los Andes and down to El Tibet in just 3 hours. This was of great significance because it meant that Leif would not have to miss a nursing session. We hopped in the car and drove to Cerro Verde where we reunited with Leif and Grandma.

We had lunch at a picnic table in the shade. I didn’t want to waste too much time because I had more volcanoes to climb. While Ilamatepec is the tallest volcano in the country, Izalco is probably the coolest. Reaching this peak meant hiking down 1,300 ft to a saddle and then climbing up 900 ft to the summit. Coming back inevitably required climbing back up the additional 1,300 ft from our earlier descent. Asaka was done for the day and agreed to hang out at Cerro Verde with Leif. Grandma wanted some exercise, so she opted to hike down Cerro Verde to the Izalco Saddle and back. We started down the steep trail in the shade; Zach and I with Gerardo and Grandma with Gerardo’s step brother, young Erick.

The trail was very steep, but this allowed us to descend quickly to the bottom.

The trees all disappeared once we reached the saddle. Gerardo wanted to wait for young Erick and Grandma here, however I saw no benefit in that, and suggested that we simply continue onwards. What I didn’t know at the time was that young Erick was supposed to take us from here, since Gerardo was tired from taking us up Ilamatepec, but he didn’t mention anything and continued with us.

It was already the afternoon so everyone on the mountain was climbing down the mountain. We passed several groups of people, including some locals who were carrying big ice chests full of ice cream on their shoulders.

There was a trail the whole way which carved through the scree and loose rock.

Zach and I maintained our strong pace and soon Gerardo was nowhere to be seen. I pushed hard because I was afraid that some authority would make us turn around if we hadn’t made the summit by a certain time. Fumaroles started to appear from the ground as we approached the crater rim.

Once atop the crater rim we were greeted with quite a sight. Much of the summit area was steaming.

The high point was clearly visible on the other side of the crater, so I started exploring ways to reach it. I first followed the most traveled trail, but this lead me straight to a steam vent. I didn’t feel safe to continue further this way, and I probably was right not to do so.

I then backed up and considered other options. There was still no sign of Gerardo so we were on our own. We decided to follow the crater rim to the summit, taking the longer of the two options.

While this route was the most fumarole free, there were still some unavoidable patches of steam shooting out along the route. I held my breath through the thicker sections, however I’m sure if the gasses were toxic I would be long dead anyway.

The steam was very hot, and I checked my shoes afterwards to make sure my rubber soles didn’t melt.

Once through the patch of steam, we were home free. We hiked a couple more minutes until we reached the true summit of Izalco.

To the north were Ilamatepec and Cerro Verde.

To the west were Chichicastepec and Los Naranjos.

To the northeast was the summit crater, and along the rim was the path we followed to reach the top.

They say that this volcano was much more active over the past few hundred years. Mariners were able to see lava coming out of Izalco from the ocean, and they used the red glow as a bearing for navigating the oceans at night. In the mid 1900s, a luxurious hotel was constructed on Cerro Verde. It was positioned such that the visitors could admire the lava from their residence. A week prior to the grand opening, the eruptions stopped, and lava ceased to flow. It was quite unfortunate for the stakeholders, as the hotel lost it’s allure overnight. From the summit, I continued along the crater rim, making a complete circle. I was able to pass alongside the fumaroles without incident.

-Ilamatepec from Izalco

After completing the loop, we ran into Gerardo again. We continued back down towards the saddle together.

I was much more comfortable than the others on the loose descent and made it down in no time. Many loose rocks were kicked down the hill, but we were the only ones still on the volcano at that late hour.

And so began the death march back up Cerro Verde. By this point it was every man for himself. Zach took off ahead of me, and I took off ahead of Gerardo. I passed several groups on the way which gave me a sense of pride. It was very humid, which made an already strenuous climb even tougher.

I finally emerged onto the road, then dragged myself back towards the little shops where I ran into my family.

To finish off my 3 volcano day, I walked with Zach to the top of Cerro Verde. There was a path that led through a botanical garden. There was a communication structure and no views, but the challenge was completed.

After coffee and a snack, we began our drive back to El Zonte, making it in time for dinner. We would have little time to rest, since the next day we planned to climb Chinchontepec, also known as San Vincente Volcano.

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