12b-nondo-blog

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English Editors’ Notes

Binon-doon. Binuo doon.

“Created there” in the heart of the metro where two identities become one are the essays exhibited in this blog. The class of HUMSS 12B have so poured the sights they have seen in Binondo, Manila onto paper to showcase one of the best places to go to when one wants to see Filipino heritage mixed with that of Chinese. It is truly a sight to behold. One that can remind us that despite of the struggles between the two countries now, there is a place called Binondo where there is a centuries-old peace still alive amongst the two cultures.

As one of the English editors, I take pride in the essays the class wrote. They have made themselves known through writing about a place they visited. May you know them, reader, and may they take you to Binondo.

Giorgina Escoto

English Editor

To our readers and followers, this is HUMSS 12B’s first ever travel blog. Each student made an effort in going to the oldest Chinatown in the world – Binondo, Manila. It is a place where I know only exist traffic, chaos, and poverty. However, as I read the travelogues of my classmates it opened my eyes to different perspectives of what Binondo really is. Take this time to learn the culture, the people, cuisine, and personal experiences from the students of HUMSS 12B as they journey to Manila’s Chinatown. I hope this travel blog will allow you to view Binondo in several different views and that you will gain knowledge from the essays posted. 

 Jeremiah Christopher G. Arrieta 

English Editor

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Set Free

William Sendo

I’m never allowed to go to ‘foreign’ places without my driver.

Growing up, I have always been accustomed to being fetched either by my parents or my driver. It was only when I entered De La Salle University last grade 11 when I was taught how to commute. There’s a catch though. My mom said that she I am only allowed to commute only when it is an emergency. Believe it or not, I do not even have Grab downloaded on my phone. Never have I ridden a Public Utility Vehicle alone. I always had to be accompanied by someone that I know.

One odd thing is that, mom does not let my driver accompany me to a place that we seldomly go to. Basically, the only places that my driver is allowed to accompany me is to anywhere in Makati City, Bonifacio Global City, Pasay and/or Taft. I have to admit; my driver really is bad when it comes to navigating unknown places. You might ask, why won’t my driver just use GPS applications like Waze or Google Maps? Simple answer. The ability to connect to the internet is very expensive. This made my trip going to Binondo delayed, and sketchy. If I tell my parents that I have to go to Binondo, they would probably suggest that they would come with me. But, where’s the fun in that?

I had to create a plan. To a relief, it wasn’t that hard. I just had to find a friend to come with me and accompany me in commuting. And so luckily, I had found Jericho and Joseph. Jericho had a restaurant near Binondo. I saw this as an opportunity I cannot pass. Joseph however, gave me a counter-offer to come with me to Binondo. Being very passionate about cinema and photography, Joseph, together with his PracRes groupmates, asked me if I could help them create a film for their thesis. The good thing is that, the location of the film was only in Arroceros forest park. The said place was only a few steps away from LRT Central Station; which was also just a station away from Carriedo Station – the closest station to Binondo and Jericho’s restaurant. What a perfect combination. We set March 9, 2019 as the day we execute this plan.

Aside from the Binondo trip, I was supposed to go to my friends’ party in BGC. I wasn’t sure whether or not I would be able to go since I did expect that this day would be filled with everything academics related. I expected that I would be really tired by the end of the day and I also prepared myself to not feel sad just in case I wouldn’t be able to go. Besides, academics first right?

I told my parents that I had classes on a Saturday; thus, classes will start at 7:30am – 5pm. I didn’t tell them that I had a birthday party later on the night, since neither was I sure if I would even have the chance to attend it.

I was off to school at 6:30 in the morning with my driver. He dropped me off and I told him to fetch me at 5 in the afternoon. I arrived at school 7:00. I waited for Joseph until 7:30am. We rode a jeepney going to Arroceros Park as we cannot take the LRT since Joseph had a toy gun that would soon be important for the film. Admittedly, I was pretty nervous. As far as I can remember, the last time I rode a jeepney was about 5 years ago with my mother. Filming started at 8 AM and ended at around 12:30 PM. The plan was to go back to La Salle to drop off our stuff. We booked a Grab going back to school.

We arrived back at school at 1AM. I texted Jericho that we were already in school. He promised us the day before that we would go together to Binondo. He wasn’t replying to any of my texts and messages in Messenger.

1:00 PM – 1:14 (Me)

Jericho, san ka na?

(sent this multiple times)

1:15 PM – (Jericho)

***o, kagigising ko lang. Sabi ko sa inyo gisingin niyo ako.

No one told me that texting already had a built-in alarm that you could send to anybody. This conversation basically just repeated until 2AM. He was very late. I started thinking about my friend’s debut. The party is 5 hours away. Binondo to BGC? Will I make it on time?

We took the LRT going to Carriedo station. I trusted Jericho so much. He told us that he lives near the place and that he is very familiar with it. Contrary to this, he was very confused on where to go when we arrived there. We walked around this market full of unusual (well, at least for me) objects. This included: airsoft guns, sex toys, knives and stalls selling/offering fake ID/documents services. We came to a point that he admitted he did not know where he was going anymore. Joseph, being the braver guy in our company, asked some of the locals where Sta. Cruz Street was.

We arrived at Kim Hiong: Food Garden at around 3 pm. His grandfather sat on the cashier half asleep. Jericho gave a kiss to his grandfather while we proceeded to our table. The walls were painted and green and were filled with old pictures of their menu. In my opinion, the restaurant may have looked a bit cheap because of the plastic tables and chairs. The servers welcomed us warmly. One of the managers then approached us to give us the menu.

Ah ito pala mga kasama ni sir! Said the manager.

The menu was crumbling. It looked like they didn’t even bother reprinting the menu since the store opened decades ago. I happen to ask Jericho when they started this restaurant. There I found out that they weren’t really the first owners of the restaurant. Jericho told me that they purchased and renovated the restaurant about 10 years ago. I’m still hopeful that the food will be good. We weren’t able to choose our own food. We actually let Jericho pick his favorite from the menu. Besides, he was going to be the one to pay for the food anyways.

They first serve us Beef Stew soup. I get to be the first one to have a taste. Jericho waited anxiously for my review whether or not I liked it. Was it good? YES. The soup was warm and was mixed properly. I just wish that they should have at least put some beef bits in it. They soon serve us Beef Shrimp Fried noodles. The noodles were good. Maybe I give it a 8/10 for a score. It was fine but I got satiated really fast. The serving itself looked like they just poured the noodles in. Lastly, they served us Fried Wonton. In my opinion, the fried wanton did not taste good. One of the reasons that I hated it was because for me, it did not taste like Wanton. For me it tasted more like Chicharon – and I hate the taste of Chicharon.

4:00 pm – We finished eating. Before leaving the place, we noticed that Jericho’s picture when he was young eating was posted outside the restaurant. It was literally the center piece of all of the advertisements. We found it very funny and decided to take a picture with it.

We started walking to Binondo. Even though Jericho’s place is basically Chinatown already, we still wanted to experience what it was really to be like in Binondo. Weird but, I’ve been to other countries’ Chinatowns more than the number of times I’ve been in Binondo - well, this is my first time in Binondo. I already had some ideas and expectations of what we will be able to see in Binondo.

I expected that it Binondo would have a lot of stores – especially those stores that sell herbal medicines. Indeed, we actually saw a store selling those stuff. Personally, as someone who prefers prescribed medicines over DIY herbal medicines, I find it quite weird to see Chinese herbal stores. I asked Jericho why they love selling different types of herbs, and he told me that the Chinese have a lot of beliefs when it comes to the benefits that different herbs bring.

Next, we visited this lucky charm store. The store was full of gold items, gems, lucky chrms and many more and plus, they differed in sizes. My personal favorite was a globe that was made out of (fake) gold. I really loved how it looked like. I personally don’t believe in lucky charms, but I have to admit that the amount of work put into these items are phenomenal.

The third store that we went to was this specific store that sold Chinese delicacies. Jericho brought us there because he wanted us to taste his favorite snack/dessert there. He brought us to the side of the mini-grocery wherein the Almond Jelly were to be found. The Almond Jelly looked like a white Leche Flan. I personally did not like the taste since it reminded me of the scent that my dad loves to put in our car. It was that specific smell that you would smell from an item that stayed in the car for a long amount of time.

Lastly, we went to Binondo Church. Outside, I was really amazed of the old architecture. When we went inside, I was astonished of the painting on the ceiling of the church. It’s really uncommon to see painting on the ceilings in churches here in the Philippines. That’s something I only see in churches abroad. Of course, I offered a prayer before leaving. I prayed that I would be able to catch up to my friend’s birthday.

It was already 5:15pm when we arrived back in La Salle. My driver was already there since I did tell him to fetch me at 5pm. Now, I had the choice. I was really tired, smelled bad and wasn’t even wearing party clothes at least. Will I still go to her party?

I hope she understands why I wasn’t able to go. I technically did it for academics. The Binondo trip was really something special. Not because of we are required to go there for CNF, but what I have experienced with my friends. Casing point, having to make your own decisions felt so amazing. The spontaneous decisions that I have made me feel that I was set free. From going somewhere I’m really not supposed to go to (alone), to riding PUVs even though I’m not allowed to, to eating food that I’ve never really tasted before, to going inside stores I normally never bother to even look at or to simply just going to a Church with my friends. And that is what I traveling should be, go where your feet could take you and try to keep it as spontaneous as it can be.

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About the Author

William C. Sendo Jr. is a currently a HUMSS student at De La Salle University. He studied primary school at Colegio San Agustin - Makati. During his freetime, he plays different instruments like the guitar, piano and ukulele. He also has a passion for anything audio-visual projects. After college, he plans to create several businesses.

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Binondo Travelogue

Micaella Fernando

Initially established as a permanent settlement for Chinese immigrants, Binondo has served as both the home and center of the Chinese culture in the metro. During my visit there last Friday March 8,2019, it still resonate the rich traditions that reflect on the great Asian civilization. The trip there was fairly easy because there are many modes of transportation to and from the place; it also takes less than an hour to get there. Once in Binondo, it’s important to go around on foot to see what the area has to offer.  

Everywhere I looked, I could see red lanterns hanging from the entrance of different establishments, and embellishments that add an oriental flair to almost every corner in Binondo. Statuettes and incense are located on some streets to pay tribute to the gods who bless the dwellers in the area. I was incredibly interested with everything around me; the air was rife with the smell of freshly cooked dumplings, noodles, and restaurants are egging me to go inside to try the delicacies they have to offer. Bustling sounds of vendors also caught my attention and I saw trinkets like jewelry, incense, medicine, and a lot more. It’s like being in a foreign land without having to leave the comforts of my homeland.

At night, the streets are lit up brightly to invite a lot more people to walk around and enjoy the food, the shops, the temples, and the museums. Binondo is so easy to go to and has a lot of sights as well as experiences for people like me to try. Whenever I have time to travel, I will always add Binondo to my list of places to go to for adventure and even for some time to relax. A day in what seems to be a foreign land will be worthwhile to go to every once in a while.

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About the Author

Mica Ella Fernando is a student from De La Salle University.  She is a Grade 12 student under the Humanities and Social Sciences Strand. She likes to try out different food from places she discovers. She also likes to write essays. She is a happy person and one that is easy to get along with.

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Xiāngsī: A Past Never Experienced

Joseph Alcones

Strange, you can feel at home in places you’ve never been. Sense a feeling of homesickness for a period in time you never actually experienced.

Whenever I visit and take a stroll along the busy sidewalks of the dense, humid and peoplelluted streets of Binondo, I always feel a twinge of familiarity for the places and people that I encounter or just pass by. Feeling an odd sense of quiet yearning, almost nostalgia, amidst the everyday noise of this ever vibrant marketplace...

Where shopkeepers, merchants and salesmen holler minute by minute to market their wares. While kargadors, labormen carry backbreaking work throughout the afternoon. Where hawkers fill the air with savory smells from their mouthwatering stalls of street delicacies: isaw, neek ng manok, betamax, pishbol, dashed with sweet-sour vinegar, glistening with fat and oil. Where customers bargain, almost competitively, for the lowest price they could get in Divisoria’s wide assortment of merchandise.

Somewhere among the ruckus is a sense of tranquility I couldn’t quite explain. A feeling like there’s a part of me I’m missing and just hidden well within the obscure shops, lie waiting along winding streets or just understated among the stories of people in Binondo. It feels like soul-searching for a part of me that I’ve always known but haven’t yet discovered.  

I never really knew his name nor can anyone from my maternal relatives even remember him, but you can still see his legacy embedded on my grandmother’s features: medium built, dark silky hair, light oatmeal complexion. His real name never stuck, by the time he got assimilated to the locality he had already acquired a Christianized surname. Yet, his face would have never lied. He was a Sangley, one of the lowest in the Philippine social stratum, immigrants from the far north looking for a new life in faraway lands east and west. He probably left the southern ports of Fujian or Guangdong in the middle or late 18th Century, a time of great upheaval in Zhongguo, The Middle Kingdom—China as it captures western ears. I could imagine him stepping out of either a common transport ship or a junk, his skin made golden by the tropical wind, his pigtail—a sign of loyalty to the Qing dynasty— slick with sweat and seawater, his body sinewy from the economic instability and political rife that plagued his homeland for centuries. China was again having its worst during this time, foreign powers have split up the kingdom into spheres of influences, and as the imperial rich became richer the common poor plunged into deeper poverty. Many young men like him decided to leave their homeland to start anew. A far peaceful life in a different land. When he came, he probably took up a mishmash of different trades, just as how every Sangley would have at that time: as kusinero, mangbabalut, bangkero, mangtataho, kargador and the common tindero, these were just some of the typical occupations left vacant for the China man.

Thinking more reflectively, it could have also been the other face of Binondo that keeps on drawing me back. The face of Binondo that you’d see setting up makeshift home’s beside the stinky canals, or working as employees to Chinese shop owners, a pedicab driver ferrying passengers across cramped streets, or the common ate accounting the sales of the day. The variety of tan, bronze and hazel toned complexions that you bump into while pushing your way through this densely populated market. The people speaking in a mix of accented Tagalog, crude English and a pinch of the language of their forefathers: Tausug, Ibanag, Cebuano, Sambal, Maranao, Sama-Badjao, Hiligaynon, Kinaray-a... Waray. The Waray people are known for the mad courage they’ve displayed throughout the history of this country. They also gained the reputation of being gangsters, siga, in the slums of Manila. If you know how to look you just might just spot the letters W-A-R-A-Y vandalized on walls of commercial shops or on garage doors of warehouses along the alleyways of Metro Manila. As slumdogs would mutter around shanties and tight eskinitas “Basta Waray, ‘di aatras ng away”. Rightly so, we were some of the first and last ones to fend off foreign colonizers from our shores, and even continued the fight even when most of Luzon and Visayas had formally surrendered to those foreigners. This same aggression probably fueled my grandparents to leave their starving state in the province. The Waray homeland of Samar and Leyte weren't doing well during those years, in a time of prevalent corruption from the Romualdez-Marcos cronies, already being one of the poorest regions did not help at all. While the Waray people already suffered from the substandard living, communist insurgents made things all the worse for us, their so called “revolutionary taxes” robbed the poor of whatever little was left from their meager earnings. With nothing more to lose, the uncertainty of moving to Manila became a minor inconvenience for my grandparents. They took a ship bound to Manila and set port at the bay. Horrifically, they later found that life wasn't any easier here. Each also had his and her odd assortment of jobs, as housemaids, factory workers, masons, carpenters, dishwashers and such. Similar to  many probinsyanos who didn't have relatives in Manila they too had to turn to the slums.

As I shove my way through hordes of market-goers passing by the opposite direction I can’t help but wonder if any one of them could be a distant relation of mine: a far-off cousin or an aunt I never knew. Who knows if I’m already exchanging glances with a street urchin who shares the same surname as I do or if I’m already negotiating with a shopkeeper who still has the real name of my forebearer. Strange, how our lives have turned out so differently and still share an odd commonality: the blood in our veins, our genetic makeup, our heritage. Whether it be from the merchants of the enigmatic kingdom from the north or seafarers from the sprawling islands down south, there still is something that does bind us as one.

Perhaps strangest of all is when I think of how my ancestors, from two different cultures, two different experiences, two different worlds, might have actually met or at least have passed by each other in the same street where I’m currently pondering this thought. It’s not too unlikely, the port of Manila isn’t that too far off, at that time it must have brought immigrants and tourists from across the country and all around the globe. As a major district I wouldn’t be surprised if my intrepid ancestors from the Visayas were forced to sojourn here for a moment, and as a hotspot of Chinese culture I would not all the more be surprised if my industrious angkong decided to stay here for the mean time.  

It’s a possibility, I could never know...

As I was asking around, I discovered an interesting word that could perhaps best describe and memorialize my feelings for Binondo: Xiāngsī, a word for “nostalgia” in old Chinese. I don’t actually know how it means, four or five generations and we’ve fully lost the ability to speak and understand. But the more I think about it, and whisper the word to myself, Xiāngsī has become a common feeling of despondency for the past I never experienced as well as a private sense of longing for a past that may have never even existed.    

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About the Author

Growing up in the small town of Pateros while spending most of his schooldays at the neighboring city of Pasig, moving to Manila for senior high school has been a great adventure for Joseph Alcones. Everyday day has become a new experience and a thrilling encounter

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The Buildings and Streets In Binondo Speak

Giorgina Escoto

I was awoken from my sleep by my grandmother who, with her chinky eyes, smiled at me as she whispered a soft “Let’s go out,” as to not wake up my cousins from our afternoon siesta. Chuckling a bit at our little afternoon secret, I rose and put on my favourite red slippers, grabbed my grandmother’s hand and walked with her to the main street. I appeared as a small shadow beside her as we were walking— a tiny morena four year-old kid in contrast with a tall, slender, half-Chinese Lola whose skin could be compared to white porcelain just like my mom’s. I watched as she  hailed a taxi in front of the gas station near her house and we set off for Binondo, her favourite area to walk around in. Before her daily sightseeing begins she walks with me to Eng Bee Tin, a Chinese deli in Ongpin Street, and purchases a few packs of Hopia just make me happy. I can recall how it was a childhood favourite snack for me, much like how I thought I was the only one my Lola takes to her secret afternoon adventures around Chinatown. 

It wasn’t until a few years after she passed that it was revealed that my cousins can all recall the same memory: being woken up by our grandmother, hailing a cab bound for Binondo, and joining her in hours long of walk trips and afternoon prayers. We only laugh about it now, often boasting about what she purchases for us from various street vendors that she called her friends. Now, for some of her grandkids, dropping by Binondo was a weekend staple especially during Sundays where the family hears mass in Binondo Church. I can recall wearing my roller blades to church, pairing it with the itchy dresses my mother would make me wear as Sunday’s Best. Walking hand in hand with my smiling grandmother in her favourite place is a memory to cherish forever. Truly, it had been a wonderful place where our some of our happiest moments with our grandmother were created.

A few months have already gone by since I last joined my cousins in hearing mass at the church, and so when I saw a chance of visiting once again last week when my mom told me she was going to drop by, I joined her. I felt a sense of nostalgia as our car crossed Jones bridge, with my eyes travelling immediately to the new arch that was built some few years ago. It was 

definitely a sight to see— a fusion of modern and traditional Chinese design meant to be the entryway for a place that was filled with centuries long of Filipino and Chinese relations. The red, gold, and green colours of the arch seemingly made it come alive along with Chinese characters and drawings as well. I’m lucky enough to have seen the Arc de Triomphe engraved with political scenes in France  and the bright orange Arco de Triunfo de Barcelona in Spain among others, but as beautiful as they are in following the grandeur of European architecture, it wasn’t quite as unique as the one here in Binondo. It was refreshing for me to see asian-inspire architecture despite living in an asian country. This prompted me to wonder if I should travel the biggest continent more. Seldom do I see a story of culture and history just by looking at a piece of architecture especially in the Metro, but it delighted me to no end that this arch had allowed me to do so. 

My mom dropped me off in front of the Binondo Church, also known as the Minor Basilica of St. Lorenzo Ruiz. Its cobbled granite walls looked ancient, being that it had been more than 400 years since it was erected. I had often wondered why there would be a catholic church in a Chinatown and so when I saw my cousins waving at me, I immediately asked the very same question. I approached them without hesitation. Ate Casina, Jerry, and Gelo greeted me. I immediately asked the eldest, Ate Casina, of my inquiries. She then partly explained to me about how St. Lorenzo Ruiz, the first Filipino saint, was born from a Filipino mother and a Chinese Father, and trained in the church before  heading to Japan where he was executed for not renouncing Christianity. The church was built for the Chinese who converted to Christianity and for the native Filipinos too. Masses were celebrated in Filipino, Mandarin, Hokkien, and English as to cater to the languages of the faithful who hear the eucharistic celebration here. Upon reading some historical material, I found out that Andres Bonifacio and Gregoria de Jesus who were revolutionary leaders, were married in the church. It was splendid to note that the silent yet beautiful and pivotal parts of the country’s history occurred right inside the house of God in Chinatown of all places. 

We entered the church and said a little prayer. Some of my cousins took longer than me so I went ahead and did a little exploring. For the many years that I have been visiting this church, I only got to admire the frescos painted on its high ceilings now. Scenes of Jesus Christ’s life graced the church, and marbled pillars added to its old-aged charm. The sun’s rays streamed through the circular openings in the roof and created a warm glow that seemed to emanate from the church itself. I took some pictures, but seeing the church in real life really is different as it came with more than a feeling of solemnity. It came with the feeling of wonder alongside learning of its rich history.

Walking through the crowded streets of Binondo under the afternoon sun was more than tiring. However, it allowed me to discover the town on foot rather than just seeing it through tinted windows of vehicles. The arch and the church had been a wonder to the eyes, but it was truly in the streets that the chinatown comes alive. Restaurants’ names were written in Chinese with yellowing signs attracting me to look into their menus that listed off some of my favourite meals. Vendors lined every fruit stall under colourful umbrellas, and red lanterns hung above cords in almost every street. Walking made me see just how old the place is, and how much history has happened in it. For me, it seems as though Binondo had been frozen in time in terms of its appearance. However, it made me appreciate it more than ever. It made me remember the walk trips I had with my grandmother and how it still feels like she’s with me every single time we go here to explore. 

Binondo is a place I will always make sure to go back to, no matter the occasion. The place just gives me a sense of nostalgia and its rich history and culture that my grandmother was part of makes it all the more interesting. I couldn’t put into words just how charming and full of wonder it is for myself. Somehow I think you’d find it beautiful in your own way too. 

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About the Writer

Giorgina Escoto is a soon-to-be freshman in De La Salle University. She likes travelling to other continents, writing poetry, and working out during early mornings. She is currently in her last two weeks of Senior High School. During her free time, she likes to go to the library to read books. She aspires to become a lawyer someday, and hopefully reach her dream of becoming president of the Philippines. 

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A Mixture of Good and Bad Culture

Jana Reynaldo

It was last Sunday on a sunny morning when I explored Binondo. However, my journey towards exploring the wonders of Binondo did not exactly start in Binondo. I came from Divisoria with my boyfriend, Marck just after we were done buying some personal needs and the only way we can go home was to go in front of Binondo Church and wait for a taxi or jeepney that will travel to Buendia. He did not want to accompany me in exploring Binondo but when we saw Binondo Church, we immediately went inside. Seeing the insides of Binondo Church surprised me. I have only seen the outside figure of it and from the stories that I have heard and read regarding the Church, I did not expect to see much beauty from it. But upon going inside, the walls, ceilings and other interiors of the Church told a different story. It gave me a sense of majesty and beauty, leaving me in awe. My boyfriend and I said our own personal prayers and even bought a candle that represents our prayers. After going out of the Church, I again asked Marck, “Marck, gusto mo na ba ako samahan?” into which he replied “sige na nga” thus officially starting our spontaneous Binondo trip.

We started with going to Eng Bee Tin, a chinese deli that is based in Binondo. I know Eng Bee Tin ever since I was a kid but I never ate any of their delicacies. But since I was in my “explorer” mode, I tried their ube hopia. At first bite, I did not like it at all. However as I tried more and more, I have gotten used to the flavor and it became delicious for me already. We decided to buy some for us to take home.

Eng Bee Tin was the closest relation that I could incorporate with Binondo. Knowing it since I was a kid and seeing some of my relatives go home from Binondo carrying Eng Bee Tin with them, I thought it was a staple food already. I thought it was a part of our culture to buy Eng Bee Tin whenever we go at a Chinese Place. However as I grew old, I realized that it was only a tradition of my family.

Marck and I only walked along the streets of Binondo, making it kind of tiring. But seeing the wonders of the oldest Chinatown in the world, we guess the walks are worth it. We then saw Cafe Mezzanine. I never knew of it, but Marck was stoked upon seeing it and repeatedly saying to me while we are going towards the restaurant’s direction “halika na, dali! Masarap diyan”. Upon going in, I immediately got a hint of tita vibes. Cafe Mezzanine was situated on top of the Eng Bee Tin branch and it looked like a binondo version of Mary Grace. But because it was lunch time and I was kind of in the mood for chinese food, I just went along and hoped that it would fulfill my desire for chinese cravings.  

Since Marck and I don’t eat a lot, we decided to just order meals that we could share together, thus ordering beef wanton noodles and pork siomai. In my honest opinion, I did like their beef wanton noodles. When I took a bite, it was not like the other noodles that I ate. The beef in the noodles tasted so sincere and original. The noodles captured my taste buds and I felt like I was transported to mainland siomai. Pork siomai is a staple food in all chinese restaurants that is why I was not surprised to taste a familiar flavor that comes with it. Across Asia, many foods are common in each country and one of it is rice. Rice is a staple food most importantly in East and Southeast Asia, where food is an important part of their culture.

After we were done eating, we decided to explore Binondo more. It was not that sunny during that day which was  good since Marck and I wanted to walk along the streets of Binondo and while walking, I saw the goods and bads about Binondo.

Binondo has a a big mark in our history. Having been founded in 1594 as a permanent settlement for Chinese immigrants who converted to Catholicism, it is not a wonder why many Chinese people are currently living in Manila right now. Along the streets of Binondo, you can see the history of the place. Old signages, historic landmarks, majestic bridges, these are the things that makes Binondo unique and captivating to my heart. However, it saddens me that Binondo is not well taken care of. A place full of trash, not well taken care facilities and some rude people. If Binondo would have been well taken care of, I think it could have been more beautiful now. I saw how Binondo was well taken care of by its citizens. By just walking around, you will really feel the sense of Chinese community and their culture. However, you will also see how Binondo is related to Manila. Filthy and dirty because it is environmentally not well taken care of.

Going back to our travel, Marck, who previously did not want to come with me to explore Binondo, was dragging me to different parts of Manila. We ended up in this altar famously called “Filipino Chinese public shrine”. It has a hint of Catholic, Christian and Buddhist elements in one setting making it unique and accessible for everyone. When we got there, we had to wait for a while since a lot of people were there as well. When it was our time, we had to follow a routine prayer that was also plastered near the altar and lit up 3 incense. I have to admit, it was a weird experience for me since that altar was a mix of different religions. Nevertheless, I offered my prayers and waited for Marck after. I was getting a bit tired since we have been walking for over an hour now, but Binondo has a sense of “explore us more” making me just want to go further and further in travelling its depths and streets.

Casually walking around, old business signages still fascinates me. I mean, how did they manage to maintain it so it is still usable up to now? Those signages are probably ten to thirty years old by now. Seeing arcs in different streets make Binondo colorful as well. From the entrance of Binondo to the arch in Ongpin street, the people in Binondo still knows how to acknowledge their culture even if they are not in mainland China and to happily welcome the visitors of their community.My favorite arch is the arch before entering Binondo. When you come from Taft Avenue, you will pass by an arch just before entering Binondo and in my honest opinion. It is simple yet so welcoming. I like the vibrance of it and how big it is.

We also saw some ancestral houses and buildings in Binondo such as the Insular Life building and the old BPI building. These buildings were considered high class back then and I would not lie. Just by looking at it, you could see the influence of Spanish architecture with the color and structural design of the building. It quite shocked me cause the earlier part of Marck and I’s trip, we were already amazed and in awe with the beauty Binondo had. But exploring the main and/or first part of Binondo upon entering, it gave us more insights and realizations that Binondo did really see a lot of changes in our country and Binondo did too change drastically over the course of time.

It was 3pm, both Marck and I were getting tired from all the walking we have done for this trip. As we went back the the terminal place in front of Binondo Church, I can’t help but still stand in awe on how majestic Binondo is. Yes, Binondo is crowded, messy and full of other negative characteristics that you can think of. One thing is for sure though, the true meaning of Binondo stays. Binondo exists because it has a rich culture and their culture is appreciated and well taken care of. That is why Binondo is still relevant today.

After all of these, we rode a cab and decided to call the tour officially done. It was a very spontaneous trip, but it was worthwhile and educational.

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About the Writer

Jana Marie R. Reynaldo is a Grade 12 student currently taking up Humanities and Social Sciences at De La Salle University Integrated School Manila. She will take Early Childhood Education as her college course at University of Santo Tomas. Jana has an interest in singing, baking and humanitarian aid. Jana is a part of organizations that focuses on 2030 Sustainable Development Goals such as 2030 Youth Force PH, International Youth United PH, Streets to Schools and The Initiative PH and is a head of some of the departments. She plans to continue all her works in regards to humanitarian aid as this symbolizes heroism in her own way.

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The Binondo Girl's Food Trip

Hazel Catherine Tan

Every major city in different countries has established their own Chinatown; however, Chinatown in the Philippines is unlike any other. Binondo, Manila upholds its pride for being the oldest Chinatown in the world. Established in 1594, the Chinese culture, rich history, and historical traditions are well-preserved even in the 21st century from the Chinese immigrant ancestors to the new generation. What makes Binondo special is the showcase on how the Chinese and Filipino cultures coexist and intertwine together as a new whole. The district continues captures the hearts of many Filipinos, because of its trade and commerce, preserved culture and traditions, historical significance, and impeccable culinary scene.

Hokkien and Cantonese cuisines are two types of regional Chinese cuisines served in Binondo. Most of the Chinese immigrants are from Fujian Province, and Cantonese being the other regional type. Binondo’s Chinese cuisine is the manifestation on how it has major influence in the Philippine cuisine. The Chinese food served in Binondo are staples among Filipinos like pancit and lumpia, and the Chinese with the localized Chinese food like hong ma and kiampong. Its cuisine makes everyone travel across the borders to experience and indulge into the best Chinese food.

When doing a Binondo food trip, it is best to commute through LRT to Recto and taking a tricycle to Binondo or ride a jeep going to Divisoria. If you’re bringing a car, it is best to park it in Lucky Chinatown Mall. Riding a car around Binondo might not be the best option because of the heavy traffic. It is best to take a trip in Binondo around 1pm-4pm during weekdays because it wouldn’t be crowded by people who also go to Binondo and haggle cheap finds in Divisoria. You would also avoid traffic because there are many fetchers picking up their children from Chinese schools near the area. Walking around Chinatown is the best way to explore the vivid and busy streets, because you will appreciate and experience the integration of the modern and traditional Chinatown with the older institutions and new modern developments. You’ll get a better solid experience in walking to Chinatown because you’ll appreciate the ancient scenery and bustling vibe around the area. Plus, the food you ate will be easily digested well and you won’t get full while walking to the next restaurant. It is recommended to wear simple clothing and avoid eye-catching flashy jewelry. In that way, some merchants can’t take advantage of you by charging a high price. You won’t also garner attention from the thieves as well because they have good eyes to spot on tourists to be victimized.

In my trip to Binondo, my friends and I took a jeepney that had a “Divisoria” sign in its front window from Vito Cruz Taft that stopped at Burgundy Tower Divisoria, and paid P10 inclusive of a student discount. Since it was 1:45pm on a Tuesday, the traffic wasn’t bad and the jeepney wasn’t full of people as well. We arrived there around 2:30pm and greeted by the heat from the sun as the jeep stopped at Binondo Church. As my stomach started to growl, I began my food adventure in Binondo. Binondo Church is a good starting point on exploring Chinatown and going home with jeepneys doing round trips in the plaza.  Binondo Church because it is heart of the district and center of Chinatown. It is always filled with locals and vendors that you can always ask directions if you’re lost. There two streets besides the church: Yuchengco Street (formerly known as Condesa Street) at the left side and Ongpin Street at the right side.  There’s no right and wrong way to go because the streets in Binondo connect each other. You’ll always find your way back to the church again. There are a lot of different classic popular restaurants that locals always love and tourists go to, because of its authenticity and powerful flavors that will make you plan your next food trip to Binondo again.

When going on a food trip, it is best to go with a group of friends. In that way, you won’t be full with the meals and pay a cheaper price in the split bills. I always like to bond with my Chinese friends because our similar tastes and preferences in food. My friends and I would share our different experiences and childhood memories in our favorite restaurants. Our first stop was Tasty Dumplings. Tasty Dumplings is always a go-to Chinese restaurant because it located in the left side of Binondo Church in Yuchengco Street (formerly known as Condesa Street). The restaurant is always packed with tourists and locals, therefore service is not the best. If you have any requests to the waiters, it is best to reiterate your requests again.

However, the food beats its service. I always eat their famous hong ma with silver roll bread (P220 + P80) and soya milk (P45). While Tasty Dumplings’ famous pork chop may be the best seller, hong ma with silver roll is an underrated meal. Their hong ma is like a Chinese version of Visayan humba, which the Visayan humba originated. Hong ma is like their take on the Fujian Chinese soy sauce braised pork. It is best paired with the silver roll bread because both the sweetness of bread and pork clash together with the savory and salty taste of the meat. The fatty chunks on the top of the meat melt in your mouth and burst with a saltiness. A good tip is to dip in the sauce of the hong ma with the bread to savor the flavor. Whenever I take my Filipino friends for a Binondo food trip, Tasty Dumplings’ hong ma would always be their favorite out of the dishes we had tried because it tasted like a sweeter version of adobo. The pair never fails to make me satisfied with the clash of different flavors and Chinese twist of the Filipino favorite food.

      We walked towards Binondo Church again and went right side of the Binondo Church, specifically in Quintin Paredes Street. The next restaurant we went to was New Po Heng Lumpia House. We entered a small, family-run lumpia house that has recently moved inside the alley of Carvajal. Lumpia is a staple food for both Filipinos and Chinese at home and celebrations. The famous lumpia Shanghai that made by Filipinos is actually inspired by the Chinese lumpia, except it is fried, filled with meat, and dipped in ketchup or vinegar. On the other hand, Chinese lumpia is fresh, stuffed with different vegetables. It is sprinkled with crushed peanuts, and dipped in sweet and spicy soy-based sauce.

New Po Heng Lumpia House caters the finest and best fresh lumpia in Binondo with a budget friendly price of P70 and free refillable hot oolong tea. Even if you’re not a big fan of vegetables, you would appreciate their fresh lumpia because of its sweetness mixed the spicy sauce. When I went to eat at their new stall, I noticed how smaller and hotter the place is. However, the old and simple vibe of the place that remained the same that I saw. Most of customers are full of old Chinese businessmen eating and chatting. This place remained the highlight of my Binondo trip because my interaction with the owner of the restaurant.

The owner of the restaurant actually came up to us because he was happy to see young people eating at his restaurant. He mentioned that young people don’t eat at the lumpia house not because his restaurant has moved. Most of them don’t know his restaurant anymore even though it is popular among middle-aged and old people. It broke my heart when he told me that because their lumpia was worth every penny with its deliciousness and big serving. I’ve realized how some unpopular Chinese restaurants like New Po Heng are losing their spark among my generation because they’re starting to get overshadowed by mainstream restaurants, especially in Lucky Chinatown Mall. Writing this travelogue, I hope readers would take an interest of this restaurant and try out their best-selling lumpia.

From Ongpin Street, we went towards the last stop which was Golden Fortune Seafood Restaurant located in Soler Street near Peace Hotel. While we were walking from Ongpin St. to Soler St., we couldn’t help and be tempted to dine at the other Chinese restaurants we had passed by like President’s, Estero Fast Food, Salazar, and Macao Mini Hotpot. I remember when I was battling my temptions to dine at Macao Mini Hotpot because I was craving for shabu-shabu for the longest time ever. However, shabu-shabu wasn’t suitable to eat at 4pm with the current hot weather. Since it was merienda hours, it is best to eat dimsum as a snack. Good thing, we arrived at Golden Fortune on time at 4:25pm. It is best to eat there around 7am-11am, 2pm-5:30pm or 9pm-1am because they have a discount promo hour for their dimsum, congee, and noodles soup. Dimsum is a style of Cantonese cuisine prepared with small portions of food served in small steamed bamboo baskets and hot oolong tea for light snacks, which is its literal English translation. It is one of the favorite food that both Filipinos and Chinese love, as you can practically see siomai and siopao sold every mall and convenient stores.

Their dimsum is one of the best one I’ve tried around Binondo, because they have actual Hong Kong chefs that cook the authentic dimsum. Entering the restaurant, I was greeted by friendly waiters dressed up in cheongsams and changsans (traditional Chinese costume for females and males) and many marine tanks filled with lapu-lapu fishes, crabs, lobsters, clams, and eels. The restaurant has a high-class ambiance and full off a lot of middle-class Chinese families and mainland Chinese businessmen eating and chatting loudly. The dining experience and food in Golden Fortune are exactly like the restaurants I have eaten in Hong Kong. I feel like you wouldn’t even need to take a trip there because their food is similar to the dimsum restaurants in Hong Kong. We ordered shrimp hakaw (P88), shrimp siomai (P55), sharksfin dumplings (P55), and beef ball (P55). All the dimsum had a flavorful taste and chewy taste that matches well with the calamansi, toyo, and chili. I would actually recommend dipping the siomai to hoisin sauce for a sweet and salty taste. Overall, I had the best dining experience in Golden Fortune out of the three because the price we paid was even lesser than the quality of the food and service.

Out of the Binondo food trips I had in the past, this trip was one of the most memorable one because of how I deeply reflected on the cuisine in Binondo. I realized how most of the Chinese cuisine are adapted and localized by the Philippine cuisine but put their own version and uniqueness with the dishes. As a local who grew up in Chinatown eating at these restaurants, I have found comfort with these authentic and localized Chinese food. The Chinese cuisine in Binondo actually brings me pride as a Filipino-Chinese because of the quality and authenticity that these restaurants give. You wouldn’t even need to take a trip to China and Hong Kong because most of the restaurants in Binondo serve authentic Chinese food. Although some restaurants put a Filipino twist to cater for the Filipinos, their food has put a unique twist connecting the flavors of Philippine and Chinese cuisine. That’s why Filipinos and Chinese would always love the Filipino-Chinese cuisine, despite its difference from the versions. They always experience more than a sense of familiarity, it is home.

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About the Writer

Hazel Catherine Tan is best known as Hazie Tan. She graduated from elementary from junior high school in Uno High School. She is currently in Grade 12 taking up HUMSS in DLSU Integrated School - Manila. Hazel is an outstanding student-leader with her academic achievements and notable positions. She was awarded as a bronze and a silver awardee during the first and second term in Grade 12. With her great leadership skills, she has been the president in the Audio-Visual Arts Club for two years. She also was the vice president of HUMSS 11-Z and currently is the treasurer in HUMSS 12-B.In college, she will be taking up Communication Arts in DLSU with her love and passion for the humanities and arts.

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Interlude

Frances Batican

Prior the trip to Binondo, my knowledge regarding the place remained limited. At most, my expectations resemble what I’ve experienced in Quiapo in the past, which I read was influenced by Binondo. With these expectations in mind, we made plans but kept in mind not to strictly follow them to be able to get the full experience.

Upon our arrival, we were greeted by the Filipino-Chinese Friendship Arch, which according to my research symbolizes the relationship between the two countries and reflects their history with one another. At first glance, thoughts of the current dispute we have with our neighboring country flooded my mind but I pushed them aside upon seeing all the different stalls that were lined down the street. As we reached Ongpin St., I felt a sense of familiarity rush through me from all the stories we’ve heard beforehand. We got off at Binondo Church and upon entering, I was immediately drawn to the design and details of its interior while also trying to take photos of its art without seeming disrespectful. Before leaving, we lit candles and offered our prayers and headed off to our next stop.

Our plan originally consisted of visiting a few restaurants and food stalls since we didn't have a lot of experience with Chinese cuisine. Since we were on a tight schedule as it was a school day and we only managed to barely squeeze it in our schedule, we decided to go to the nearest place in our list which turned out to be The Great Buddha Cafe. The Great Buddha Cafe occupied the same building as Eng Bee Tin and so we had to pass through it in which we were approached by a saleslady offering free taste. Deciding we liked it, we agreed to buy some before leaving for our third stop. When we got to the second floor, we saw the souvenir shop and we looked around, touching almost everything we can get our hands

on, though being careful as they were rather costly.

Finally, diverting our attention to the restaurant, we noticed that all the diners excluding ourselves were middle aged and elderly people seemingly familiar and comfortable already with the atmosphere of the place while we’re so evidently lost. As the name suggests, the interior of the place contained decorations that give off a sophisticated impression and a big statue of Buddha can be found situated on one side as if on a shrine. Right beside it were two seats in which people can take photos with the statue. The cafe also matched the theme of the building, with purple furnitures the same as Eng Bee Tin’s signature color. As we planned to go to more restaurants and food stalls, we limited our orders to Shrimp Hakaw and Fried Dumplings and decided to share them so we were able to consume more food for the rest of our trip. As I don't have experience with Chinese cuisine, I can’t say if they were worth the price we paid for and had nothing to compare it too though it was tasty.

We also discovered they had museum in the third floor although when we asked the sales lady, she informed us that it was under construction to which we found disappointing as we were curious as to what we would see in a food-themed museum.

For our next stop, which is the very popular Shanghai fried siopao, we already expected to wait a long time for the order according to people who have been there before. While we were on our way, we found it was easy to get lost as there were a lot of twists and turns although if you pay enough attention, there can be found landmarks due to the different shops and stalls. The locals were also very accommodating and knowledgeable about the place which made the place easier to navigate. Upon arrival, the countless amounts of siopaos displayed outside by trayfuls immediately caught our eye. Locals who seemed to be suki of the stall already were also there confirming their orders with the stall’s cashier. With the smell of the newly baked siopaos engulfing us, we waited for our order. Upon tasting it, I recalled the reviews I’ve read about it all over the internet, and thought it did deserve all the rave surrounding it.

As much as I wanted a second order, I reminded myself this was only our second stop and had a lot more waiting for us. As we were walking around to find more stalls that seemed interesting to look into, my companion pointed out Lord Stow’s Bakery and informed me about the famous egg tarts they made. She also stated this shop was the most popular in Hong Kong known as the home of the famous Macau egg tarts. After the savory meals we’ve had, we decided to stop for dessert for a change. The inside had very limited space only able to accommodate probably less than ten people. There were a lot of pastries and sweets in display although they also offered rice meals, pasta, soup, and more. We bought two orders of egg tarts and after the first bite, I can already say this was the best tasting tart I’ve ever tried so far. Although I was almost full, I still managed to finish it and debated on whether I should order more to take home with me but decided against it. As it was exhausting navigating in the area while it was nearing noon and drowsy from stuffing our faces, we decided to take advantage of the AC and serene atmosphere of the place to rest for a little while.

After a few minutes, we realized how much time has actually passed since we arrived and headed off to what would be our last stop. As we were retracing back our steps to Binondo Church, our marker to our next stop, I noticed the numerous amount of shops more or less selling the same things. There were a lot of jewelry shops and those that sold feng shui products and medicinal items with the same red lanterns decorating the exterior. We had a few stopovers though I had no recollection already of most of them.

Lucky Chinatown was where we spent the most amount of time. It also was the most instagrammable place because of the lanterns decorating the place. As it was also midday, we couldn't handle the heat and decided to just roam around the mall. It was just like any other mall where there were a lot of restaurants and shopping establishments. After one round, we decided to grab some ice cream mostly because the stall was next to a hallway of lanterns in which we were interested to take photos with. They were hung right next to the windows and as you look outside, you’re able to see more lanterns suspended from strings like what you’d find in a festival. We then proceeded outside to take pictures and noticed the exhibit of Chinese zodiac signs with the 2019 horoscopes. A few people were stationed in front reading

their respective horoscopes so we did the same though weren't really convinced. We roamed around for a few more minutes until we felt it was right to leave for class. We ended up in 168 and other places within the area and finally felt it was time to end our short trip.

Overall, Binondo was an interesting place to explore. Although, you definitely need more than just half a day to get the full experience. It had a lot more to offer than what I originally thought even if I only managed to be there for a short period of time. You only need an open mind and the willingness to experience whatever the place offers to you.

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About the Writer

Frances Batican previously studied in St. Scholastica’s College Manila and is currently studying in De La Salle University Manila. She’s under the HUMSS strand for she believes this can prepare her in taking up BS Tourism in college. In the future, aside from wanting to finish her degree, she’s also interested in becoming involved in organizations that provide for the wildlife, environment, etc.

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Walking in Binondo Barefoot

Jeremiah Arrieta

On the afternoon of my arrival in Binondo, another district in Manila City, I immediately went on a food trip with my driver, Kuya Manuel. The hot season broke out a few weeks now, the heat of the sun was announcing their presence to the traffic, and rain was nowhere to be found. When we entered the Chinatown, we passed through a bridge over a canal and I noticed the massive structure with typical Chinese architecture, pointed roof, Chinese words displayed and stunning colors. It was a different experience for me because it was m first time in Binondo.

Kuya and I were looking for a parking lot and it took us an hour to do that because the traffic was chaos. Though the sun had set, the street lights along the busy street were lit up and market signs were suddenly colorful. Crowds of people languidly carried their conversation under the warm atmosphere. We first stepped foot on a street that was not so populated and nice, well maybe it’s because we were far from the downtown. So I took my phone out and went to look for directions in Google Maps. As we were making our way, we just started asking people for directions because every corner we walk in gets more crowded and keep my phone safe in my pocket.

I’ve been to a lot of countries and one thing they all have in common is they have their own Chinese communities, though it is the Philippines that you will find the oldest Chinatown in the world. Manila’s Chinatown is called Binondo – derived from the Tagalog word ‘binondoc’ which means ‘mounatinous’ as it is located on a hill landscape. Binondo was founded by a Spanish governon Luiz Perez Dasmarinas in 1594, the purpose of the site was meant for Chinese immigrants who converted to Catholicism. When we kuya and I were driving around Binondo to look for a parking lot, we happen to pass by a very old cathedral, also known as the Quiapo Church or the Minor Basilica of St. Lorenzo Ruiz, dedicated to the first Filipino Saint. A Chinatown that is not only beautiful but rich in history.

“The streets and shops of Binondo looks different at night,” I thought as I walked looking for a good restaurant for Kuya and I to eat. A kind local told us to go to Escolta, as she said it is the ‘downtown’ of Binondo where we will see a lot of shops. There were just a lot of food choices and I wanted to try them all, however, we could only choose one restaurant. It was also pretty difficult for me to know if this was a shop or restaurant from a far because the signs were in Chinese. Just before finding a place to eat, I went to a store with a red lantern hung up on the entrance and bought a box of tikoy because it’s been a really long time since I’ve eaten one of those. I remember there were a lot of flavors but I chose to buy the classic tikoy and the ube flavored tikoy.

After choosing and purchasing some Chinese food products, and joking around with the clerks about giving me a lower price, Kuya and I head to the busy streets in search for a place to eat. It was already quarter to 7 in the evening and more families and friends stroll in casual clothing to probably eat out too. This was my first time walking in a Chinatown in the Philippines, and I was just amazed with the crowd of people, open shops left and right, fresh meat and fruit strolling on carts chiming with bells. I knew this was going to be my last time too because my parents only allowed me to go since it was a school activity. I did not know if I was ready to leave Binondo yet.

Soon after, I noticed a small noodle shop in a distance. Kuya and I, almost yelling through the noise of the traffic and people’s conversations, decided that we have our dinner there. The place was clean, not noisy and not too fancy; I forgot the name of that small restaurant because we were very hungry and quickly ordered their bestseller, which was of course, their classic noodles. There were about 4 other people eating inside the restaurant, all with Chinese descent, we were the only ones not Chinese. It is funny because after walking under the hot and warm atmosphere, we came up with the idea to go for hot noodles.

It’s a tradition in the Philippines if you visit a new place you come back home with a gift for your family. I don’t live with my family but my Kuya does, so in a nearby fruit market, he scavenged for ripe mangoes and bananas as I stood holding the tikoy and other food we bought earlier. A young boy, about 6 years old, approached me with ease. I first noticed he wasn’t wearing any slippers and I just imagined how he manage to walk under the heat. He came up to me and asked politely if he can have food with my preference because the boy have not eaten dinner yet. I nodded my head and without hesitation I gave him the box of ube tikoy.

As kuya Manuel and I drove out to binondo, what struck me the most of my trip to Binondo was not the market lights, busy streets, delicious food, the rich history it stores or the funny clerks we encountered. It was the young boy who did not ask me for money, but instead for food. I remember standing up holding the plastic bags and giving the boy the only ube tikoy I had. As I gazed at the young boy sitting at a corner he was sharing that box with the other kids. For me, that was the highlight of my trip.

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About the Writer

My name is Jeremiah Christopher Arrieta, but everyone calls me ‘Jerry’. I am an 18 year old HUMSS student in De La Salle University. My hobbies include playing football and reading fiction books. I love traveling and exploring the world. I have been to a lot of Chinese communities in different countries, but I can say Manila has the most interesting and historical chinatown among the ones I visited. One of my only long-term goal in life is to help people by becoming a lawyer.