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Simone Rocha SS2020 Ready-to-Wear
Simone Rocha presented the interconnectivity between the masculine and feminine through her collection. The repetition of the balloon silhouette throughout the show was reminiscent of the more traditional folk wear, which was exemplified with the lining of white lace and ruffles. This traditional women folk aspect, was modernised my the incorporating more masculine elements to the clothing. The oversized and balloon silhouette, in addition to the layering within the styling, swallowed the models in the flattering way, driving the notion of the modern woman not conforming to the need to show the shape of their bodies. These silhouettes were complimented with the rounded shoulders creating an illusion of the models looking broader again hinting to the masculine elements.
There was a sense of folksiness of the collection was exacerbated by the delicate china prints reminiscent of table cloths and reoccurring use of natural textures. The looks incorporated with crocheted straw both on the dresses, in the models hair and the straw basket bags, as well as the feathers painted on the models foreheads, drive the rural and folk trope. The straw features which push this concept were juxtaposed with the silk pieces styled with pearls and jewels, through the form of necklaces, embroidered onto the trousers and socks and also on the chunky sandals. Throughout the collection, Rocha was able to combine raw and dark elements with more traditionally pretty and delicate elements, allowing her to explore the power of women through interlinking stereotypical masculine and feminine details with a nod to old folk culture, with key pieces such as the mesh tulle dresses, worn by both older and younger models exploring strength that Rocha’s woman can hold.
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new season, steven klein for vogue italia, february 1999
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Rei Kawakubo, backstage at her spring 1986 fashion show wearing her own black ensemble and flat shoes.
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