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The First 4 Rod/Reel Combos You Should Own.

The First 4 Rod/Reel Combos You Should Own.

For a newcomer to bass fishing, picking out fishing rods can be a difficult endeavor because there’s so many out there! Each manufacturer will carry enough models to overstuff any boat’s rod storage and many of the rods may seem nearly identical to a novice. So where do you begin? Here I suggest the first four combos that beginning anglers should start with.

First, understand that not any one rod/reel combo can adequately and efficiently cover all of the bass fishing techniques popular today. To be a versatile angler, knowledge of several techniques is required. If you watch any professional bass tournament on TV, you will often see that the competitors have a wide range of rod/reel combinations laid out on the front deck of their boat. Plus you don’t see another 10 or more stored in their rod box. They have all of these combos because many techniques are performed best with very specific rod/reel setups. And there are soooo many techniques nowadays!

Second, understand where you fish, so you know which rod/reel combos will be most important. These you should purchase first. For example, an angler whose home lake is Lake Okeechobee, FL might want to first purchase a 7 ½ foot flippin’ stick because of the all the thick, shallow vegetation. Contrast that to an angler who fishes mostly spotted or smallmouth bass on clear lakes. There, a med-light spinning combo might be a good first purchase because finesse tactics are likely to be a large component of fishing strategies.

So keeping the above in mind, here are four rod/reel combos offering a range of variation that allows an angler to cope with a wide spectrum of fishing techniques. I offer these in no particular order:

7 foot, heavy power, fast action, premium graphite, baitcasting rod. Match it with a baitcasting reel having close to a 7:1 gear ratio. Rod sensitivity is really important with many of the techniques implemented by this rod, so purchase a rod made with a high grade, graphite blank. This rod can execute so many techniques extremely well that use lures/weights in the 3/8 to 1 oz. range. These would include spinnerbaits, chatterbaits, swimbaits, Texas-rigs, Carolina-rigs, football jigs, swim jigs, flipping jigs, and beefy plugs/cranks/glidebaits. This rod can also be a substitute for a flipping stick, although it is has more flex than preferred.

7 ½ to 8 foot, extra heavy power, fast action, premium graphite, baitcasting rod. Match it with the same baitcaster as above. Again, sensitivity is vital here, plus so is the weight of the rod. High grade, graphite rods are more sensitive and weigh less, so look for rods made of this. This rod will handle the heaviest of lure presentations, starting at about 5/8 ounce on up from there. Techniques for this outfit typically include flipping, pitching, frogging, swimbaiting, and umbrella rigging.

7 foot, med-light power, fast action, premium graphite, spinning rod. Pair it with a spinning reel of a 3000 to 4000 in size. This rod is needed because baitcasting outfits are unable to effectively cast lightweight lures/weights under a ¼ ounce. Techniques used with this rod call for a high degree of sensitivity. Therefore like above, look for a rod made with a high grade, graphite blank. This outfit will handle all of the finesse techniques that are most often associated with very clear lakes/rivers. These include wacky-rigs, Ned-rigs, necko rigs, drop-shots, jigworms, and shaky-heads. This rod will also be able to cast lightweight plugs, crankbaits, and small swimbaits.

6 ½ to 7 foot, medium power, fast action, graphite composite, baitcasting rod.  Match this with a baitcasting reel having about a 7:1 gear ratio. It is not necessary to pay up for a high-grade graphite rod due to the techniques matched to this rod. Sure, “feel” is always important, but if money is to be saved by purchasing a rod with less graphite, this is the niche where it can be done without losing much. Heavily rely on this rod for lures in the 1/4 to 5/8 ounce range such as topwater plugs, jerkbaits, crankbaits, and swimbaits.

Every serious bass angler has more than four rod/reel combos, because they also have combos for very specific niches as well as duplicates of often used combos. The combos mentioned here provide a great foundation from which to build. How to build from here all depends upon each angler’s style of fishing and where they fish. That is why I go no further than those listed.

With the above four rod/reel combos, I can visit any lake/river in the country, and have an outfit that is very capable of implementing effective techniques for that particular fishery.  Take any of these away and a huge hole opens up, preventing the use of certain essential lures.  I highly recommend beginners to own these combos first, and try not to get lost in the jungle of rods that are out there!

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Arrows Vs. Bolts: What’s the Difference?

Arrows Vs. Bolts: What’s the Difference?

If you’re an archer, you already know that compound bows shoot arrows. But what do crossbows shoot? Are those arrows too? What about Bolts? It depends on who you ask, but most crossbow manufacturers agree that today’s modern crossbow shoots ARROWS and the terms are interchangeable. Technically speaking, Crossbow Bolts are generally shorter in length (16-22-inches) and have no stabilizing vanes near the back while arrows always do. And although the terms are interchangeable, the projectiles are NOT interchangeable with your compound bow and crossbow. But to really get an understanding of these projectiles, let’s take a deeper dive into the history, characteristics, and and why the heck we started calling them bolts in the first place.

Medieval Crossbows & Bolts

Although its origins are heavily disputed, the crossbow was considered one of the most important weapons during medieval times. It was primarily used for military purposes and the weapon dramatically changed the way battles were fought. It was the first ranged weapon to be simple, cheap and physically undemanding enough to be operated by large numbers of untrained soldiers. The projectiles for these weapons were typically shorter and heavier than traditional bows, and they were incredibly strong. So strong that they could easily pass through chainmail. And that’s where some think the “bolt” name comes from…the projectiles would hit so hard and so unexpectedly that it was like “A bolt out of the blue.”

Crossbow Bolt Characteristics

Typically 16-22″ in length with the most common length being 20-inches.

4 distinct parts: Shaft, Fletching, Broadhead, and Nock

Heavier than traditional arrows

Arrow Characteristics

Typically 27-32″ in length

4 distinct parts: Shaft, Fletching, Broadhead, and Nock

Lighter than Crossbow bolts

What the Experts Think:

“If it’s under 16 inches, it’s a bolt,” says Phillip Bednar, director of marketing for TenPoint Crossbows. “Sixteen inches or more is considered an arrow. We shoot 20- and 22-inch arrows.”

“Technically, either term is correct,” says Sam Coalson, Director of Marketing for Bowtech Archery. “Most people still call them bolts, but more and more crossbow enthusiasts seem to be calling them arrows.”

Quick tips for Choosing the Right Arrows (Bolts)

If you’re a first time archer, there’s nothing more important than picking the right arrows for your compound bow or crossbow. With all of the different brands, lengths, and different nock types, it can be quite confusing. But if you follow these quick tips, you’ll be nailing bullseyes in no time.

NEVER use arrows that are shorter than the manufacturer’s recommended length. It might not happen every time but your arrow is bound to fall off your rest or hit the rail of your crossbow. If you don’t believe me, google “Arrow Hand.” 

Never use arrows that are lighter than the manufacturer’s recommended weight. Heaver is safe to use, but will reduce your FPS.

Never fire broadheads or field tips that are lighter than the manufacturer’s reccomended weight. Heavier is fine, but keep in mind your FPS will be reduced.

So what do you think? Are today’s crossbows using Bolts? Or are they arrows? If you’re tired of the debate, let’s just agree to call them what they really are…arrows.

Additional Resources

Getting More Out of Your Crossbow Arrows

Archer’s Edge: Choosing the Right Arrows

Archer’s Edge: The Complete Crossbow Manual

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Awesome Whitetail Deer Fight…With a Twist Ending [VIDEO]

Awesome Whitetail Deer Fight…With a Twist Ending [VIDEO]

We cull the internet in search of the latest outdoors-related tidbits, YouTube clips, photos, memes, you name it. Stuff you HAVEN’T seen before, hopefully. If it’s amusing, entertaining, educational or astonishing, you’ll find it here. Check back every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday and see what’s new.

Buck fights are always awesome to watch, and today’s is especially great.

The video was recorded by Hunter Allen somewhere down south in the heart of the rut. Hunter also provides some rather enthusiastic narration. Can’t tell if he’s doing a Larry the Cable Guy impression, or if that’s just how his voice sounds, but we got a kick out of it.

It starts with one buck jumping the fence to fight another buck while a doe watches from the sideline.

They mix it up pretty good for a few minutes. The fence adds an interesting element you don’t usually see in deer fights. Gives the whole thing sort of a UFC feel.

At about the 40-second mark, yet another buck decides to join the fray, and hops the fence to take on these two juveniles.

Whitetail Deer Fight

Crazy rut action with a big surprise ending!Video by Hunter Allen

Posted by Love To Hunt on Saturday, 10 November 2018

The newcomer looks to be a little bigger, and one of the smaller bucks breaks away just as the new one joins.

The big boy proceeds to back the other buck. That’s when the video ends.

Cool fight!

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Vibe Kayaks Big Gamble

Vibe Kayaks Big Gamble

2019 is shaping up to be a big showdown year in fishing kayak manufacturing. New high-end kayaks from trusted manufacturers like Hobie, Jackson, and Feel Free are gaining some headlines but the real dog fight is further down the pricing ladder. Since late 2017, large name kayak manufacturers have been promising more kayaks in the $999 and below price point. The

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Learning to Fly Cast from an Angling Icon

Learning to Fly Cast from an Angling Icon

Fishing

After an injury stymies the author's fly-casting skills, he revisits lessons from the late, great Lefty Kreh and finds his stroke again

After accidentally breaking his wrist, Edward Nickens teaches himself to cast a fly rod again using old YouTube footage of angling legend Lefty Kreh…

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How to Cut an Ice-fishing Hole Without a Power Tool

How to Cut an Ice-fishing Hole Without a Power Tool

Fishing

Three ice-fishing experts explain their favorite power-auger alternatives for punching through hard-water

Gas or electric augers drill through ice and create a perfect hole for fishing. However, the cost of a new unit is often outside the reach of an angler's budget.

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The 20 Best New Fishing Lures and Baits for 2019

The 20 Best New Fishing Lures and Baits for 2019

Gear

Our fishing experts pick the hottest new lures, baits, and fly patterns that'll have rods bent and drags screaming all year.

We pick the 20 hottest new lures and baits for 2019.

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Catch More Fish with Hand-crafted Baits

Catch More Fish with Hand-crafted Baits

Fishing

Custom soft plastic and swimbait designs crafted by independent craftsman are changing the way anglers stock their tackle boxes

Compared to mass-produced lures, handmade soft plastics and swimbaits from independent designers make it easy for anglers to request some specifically for their favorite…

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Two Lynx Scream At Each Other, Sound Totally Ridiculous [VIDEO]

Two Lynx Scream At Each Other, Sound Totally Ridiculous [VIDEO]

We cull the internet in search of the latest outdoors-related tidbits, YouTube clips, photos, memes, you name it. Stuff you HAVEN’T seen before, hopefully. If it’s amusing, entertaining, educational or astonishing, you’ll find it here. Check back every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday and see what’s new.

Nature is intense.

These two lynx get into a crazy shouting match for seeminly no reason (well, no reason discernible to us humans), and the sound is…interesting, to say the least.

In fact, it sounds downright ridiculous.

Oh wow

Posted by Nicole Lewis on Friday, 18 May 2018

It almost sounds like two humans pretending to scream like lynx, but it’s absolutely legit. This is what it sounds like when two lynx scream at each other.

Hilarious.

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Alpine Warfare: 10th Mountain Division in WWII

Alpine Warfare: 10th Mountain Division in WWII

Recently we received a re-supply of these WWII-era Foster Grant Goggles, and I thought it time to investigate some of the unique history behind them.

Each pair were manufactured by the Foster Grant glasses company specifically for the 10th Mountain Division, the specially-trained mountain fighters of the U.S. Army.

Small numbers of these Goggles are still occasionally found in the wild, which is a rarity for something made over 70 years ago.

A pair of the goggles, sitting on my desk

Certainly one of the reasons many pairs of these Goggles still exist is the very late introduction of the 10th Mountain Division into the conflict in Europe. The unit arrived on the shores of Italy in the winter of 1944, less than 6 months before victory in Europe would be declared.

While many pairs of these Goggles were issued for training purposes, very few probably made it to Italy.

Military Mountain Training Gets a Slow Start

The United States has long been home to civilian enthusiasts involved in skiing and other mountain sports. Unfortunately the adaptation of those skills to war took much longer to develop.

Many countries in Europe had traditional mountain units. But for the U.S. Military, the idea of specialized mountain-fighting troops wasn’t taken seriously until a contemporary event proved their value.

On November 30, 1939, the Soviet Union undertook a massive invasion of the newly-independent nation of Finland. Despite being severely outnumbered in raw troops, aircraft and tanks, Finland mounted a determined defense causing severe Soviet losses.

Finnish ski troopers in snow camouflage

Using the snowy and mountainous terrain to their advantage Finnish guerillas out-maneuvered Soviet troops, forcing them to split into smaller disorganized pockets which they then attacked from all sides.

The Finns easily managed the steep mountain slopes and used skiis to quickly move between engagements to get the most value out of every fighter.

Eventually the Soviets prevailed by sheer numbers. But not before the world had taken notice of how the Finns had used their naturally formidable homeland to resist their invaders.

One of those who took notice was Charles Minot Dole, the founder of the first national network of ski rescue organizations across the U.S.

By 1940, Dole was petitioning U.S. Army Chief of Staff General George Marshall to create a specialized mountain warfare division of the U.S. Army.

The 87th Mountain Regiment

This new mountain-fighting force was finally made reality on December 8, 1941, only a single day after the surprise attack on Pearl Harbor by Imperial Japanese forces. With America now in the war this new unit, officially the 87th Mountain Regiment, finally had a name but no soldiers.

Working closely with the civilian experts of the National Ski Patrol, the U.S. Army chose to fast-track the process by recruiting experienced skiers from many clubs, schools, and isolated communities across the U.S., and then train them further in military tactics and survival.

10th Mountain Division during training (many of them wearing Foster Grant Goggles)

What started as a single battalion eventually grew into a larger force. Reorganized as the 10th Mountain Division, this elite group of alpine fighters came complete with their own camouflage, specialized skis, gear for surviving in harsh winter weather, and even specialized snow vehicles such as the M29 Weasel.

Driving the Germans out of the Mountains

By the winter of 1944 when the 10th Mountain Division finally landed on Italian shores, much of the country was already in Allied hands.

The remaining German resistance lay in the Apennines Mountains of Northern Italy. With heavy artillery and experienced crews covering every significant point of advance, they had slowed Allied movement to a crawl.

On February 18, 1945, a regiment of the 10th Mountain Division climbed the cliffs of Riva Ridge and took the long-untouchable German defenders completely by surprise.

Shortly afterward, additional regiments of the 10th continued onward to strike the German units holding Mount Belvedere, overrunning the defenders in a surprise bayonet charge.

Over the next 3 days, the 10th held off repeated German counter attacks as Allied forces strengthened their positions.

By April, soldiers were able to move into the Po Valley to cut off German forces from resupply and prevent any escape.

All told, the 10th Mountain Division had suffered 1,000 deaths and over 4,000 wounded. But without a doubt, they were able to prove the effectiveness of specially-trained ski troops in mountain conditions and carve their own distinctive chapter into the history of World War II.

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Rod Setups for Cranking Grass Beds

Rod Setups for Cranking Grass Beds

When I am presented with submerged grass beds in a lake, chunking a crankbait immediately comes into mind. They allow an angler these benefits: they cover more water than other techniques, they allow the boat to be held at a distance from a school of fish, and the “ticking” of the weed tops triggers reaction strikes from neutral bass. I especially like the method on newer growth vegetation before it has matured and grown too tall. But like any technique, certain nuances of the approach will make a big difference in results. Regarding cranking grass, one of these nuances concerns rod and line selection.

Proper rod and line selection will provide the benefit of a long cast if needed, the ability to snap weeds off the crankbait, and a high level of “feel.” An angler will fish at a more efficient level and trigger more strikes when the proper rod and line combo is achieved. To the casual observer, masters of this technique will often draw the comparison to a robotic machine as the angler methodically casts, cranks, and snaps the crankbait over the grass tops.

The first thing in achieving the highest level with this technique, is to learn how to cast a baitcasting outfit! There exists no “outside the box” trick that will ever allow this fishing technique to be done more efficiently with spinning gear. That I promise. The only case for spinning gear is when the chosen crankbait is too lightweight for baitcasting. For example, a #5 Rapala Shap Rap is just too light to cast on baitcasting, so spinning is the only option.

For many years, rods sold as “cranking rods” have been typically made of fiberglass and have a slow, gradual taper that yields a very “whippy” action. These are horrible rods for cranking grass!  Such rods have no ability to pop weeds off with a quick, short snap of the rod tip; and they have less “feel” due to the inferior ability of fiberglass to transmit it.  Instead I recommend a graphite/graphite composite rod with some backbone. I want most of the flex in the last third of the rod while the rest of it leading to the reel remains fairly stout. This type of action facilitates the snap factor. Rods that have this type of taper that are labeled medium/heavy is what I look for. Note that not just one rod will suffice for all crankbaits. The weight of a lure still needs to be taken into consideration. For example, the rod I prefer for a ¾ oz Rat-L-Trap will be stouter than a rod I match to a ¼ oz Rat-L-Trap.  To cast the lighter baits, a little more flex in the rod is necessary to achieve adequate casting distance and accuracy. So I will look for a rod labeled medium action.

The rod length preferred comes down to personal preference of the angler. Longer rods will provide greater casting distance, but with that extra length comes more torque on the wrists when snapping the crankbait clean of grass. This torque can lead to issues with wrist and/or elbow pain (in fact, I know older, professional anglers that refuse to fish like this because they know what will happen to their joints). Personally, I often use a 6 ½ foot rod which may surprise you experienced anglers because crankbait rods are usually thought of as being longer. But I really like the snap I get with this length and the ease as to which I can achieve it. I will opt for a longer rod (up to 7 ½ ft) when the situation places casting distance at a premium. As you may know, a longer cast will allow a crankbait to reach greater depths on its dive. This may be needed to reach the tops of the grass with a favored lure.

Important, but to a lesser level than rod selection, is line selection. I’m not referring to the pound test because that will vary greatly depending upon the model crankbait, depth, and cover. Instead I am talking about its core material, whether it is monofilament, fluorocarbon, or braid. These materials have varying degrees of stretch, impacting the performance of cranking grass.  Stretchy line inhibits the ability to snap a crankbait free of snagged grass and it also robs “feel”, especially at the end of a long cast. The inability to snap free of grass results in more wasted casts as the fouled weeds need to be cleaned from the lure at the boat. Note that even with the proper setup, grass will often foul the crankbait and need to be cleared by hand anyways. That is the nature of this fishing method. But the proper setup will result in a lower frequency of the bait staying fouled. Stretchy line dulls feel of every kind, whether it’s the wobble of the lure, the bounce off a weed top, or the strike of a bass. By feeling the wobble, an angler can determine if there are any weed fragments clinging to the hooks.  Feel also helps to differentiate between a hard bump off a weed or a strike from a bass. Sometimes it can be hard to tell even with the right setup.

So given that stretch is not desired, do not use monofilament because it stretches much more than the other two. That then leaves a choice between fluorocarbon and braid (both which are substantially more expensive than monofilament unfortunately). If stretch was the only consideration between these two, then braid would win the choice because it has zero stretch. But in the end, I choose fluorocarbon. It may be just a personal preference thing choosing between these two. Sure it has a little stretch, but not too much to where it’s a negative to the technique. I also believe I can get a little extra diving depth from a crankbait by using fluorocarbon.

I guess I should say something about the reel and its gear ratio. Because many casts are ruined by the crankbait fouling with grass, I want a speedy ratio capable of quickly winding in the fouled bait. Reels with a gear ratio of less than 6:1 are maddingly slow! A fouled lure is wasted time and I want to wind it in fast so I can clean it of grass and chunk it back out there.

Like most fishing techniques, the only way to achieve a high mastery of cranking grass is by equipping yourself with the right rod setups. Stouter rods than normal combined with line having less stretch is the proper way to set yourself up for success.  Follow the tips here and you too can be that robotic machine casting, cranking, and ripping their way to a huge catch!

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Stop the Bleeding!

Stop the Bleeding!

It’s always a good idea to refresh your knowledge of basic first aid skills so that when the time comes for action, you have a more focused base of information to call upon. Knowing the fundamentals of treating a bleeding wound now may save you critical real-time minutes afield.

The outdoor arena is full of things that can slice, poke, tear and scrape at our flesh at nearly every turn. The four types of bleeding skin injuries are:

Lacerations: deep cut or tear

Puncture: piercing/impaling of the skin with a sharp object

Avulsion: skin torn from your body, missing tissue

Abrasion: Scraped/rubbed skin against hard/rough surface

First Aid for these common types of bleeding wounds follows three basic procedures:

Stop the bleeding: Apply direct pressure to the wound using gauze, a clean cloth, or even your hand if necessary. If your material becomes blood soaked, add another layer on top—BUT DO NOT REMOVE THE INITIAL COVERING. Raise the wound so it’s higher than the level of the victim’s heart.

Clean the wound: First wash your hands! Use soap and water to carefully and gently clean/flush out the wound. Irrigate the wound with plenty of potable water. Do not use iodine or hydrogen peroxide as they can damage tissue. [NOTE: 1% povidone-iodine can be used instead of water as a rinse if some unremovable, visible debris remains in the wound]. It is generally considered best to leave an impaled object in place, securing it with bandaging so as not to worsen the wound site. However, if it there will be a delay in getting treatment (even a few hours in some cases), failing to remove the object and treating the wound can risk serious infection.

Protect the wound: Apply an antibiotic cream and then cover with a sterile bandage, changing it daily.

A broad range of wound dressings are specifically designed for serious injuries involving trauma and severe hemorrhaging. One family of dressings is referred to as “Combat” Dressings. These are used to control severe bleeding by applying a field dressing similar to those used by the military in combat. Typically they are available in a range of gauze options (or other blood/fluid-absorbing materials) and thicknesses, used alone or in combination with bandages impregnated with material (e.g. powder or microscopic beads) that absorbs the moisture in the blood, stopping its flow.

Here are a few tips on slowing or stopping bleeding when in the field:

Always raise the wound above the heart to slow the flow

Applying ice will constrict blood vessels

Petroleum jelly can stop bleeding in small, shallow cuts

Tea (in bags or soaked cloth) can cause blood to clot and vessels to constrict (due to the astringent in the tannins in the tea)

Yarrow, a wildflower plant, when dried and crushed into powder or fresh, wet leaves and flowers, can be applied to a wound to stop bleeding

There are many home/folk remedies for slowing/stopping blood flow. Be advised that unless you are absolute sure of a treatment, do not use it as it could lead to infections, allergic reactions or other adverse effects.

Using a Tourniquet? Applying a tourniquet has always been a controversial first aid treatment. However, there are instances where “catastrophic hemorrhaging”—extreme blood loss quickly resulting in death—may demand the application of a blood-flow-restricting band tightened above a victim’s injury.

Most damage and further injury comes from the improper application and use of a tourniquet. Multiple injuries where the tourniquet can temporarily stop bleeding in one area while managing another wound and amputation are two examples where applying a tourniquet can save a life—and where the benefit outweighs any potential damage caused by applying the tourniquet in the first place.

Remembering first aid treatments can be an overwhelming task. Doing your homework and periodically reviewing the processes for CPR and bleeding wound management and treatment can make you a more self-reliant outdoors person—and may just save someone’s life—even your own. Be safe. Be smart. And have fun out there!

#

Be prepared for your next outing with a Trauma First Aid Kit from Sportsman’s Guide.

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How to Use a Glass/Slate Turkey Call

How to Use a Glass/Slate Turkey Call How to use a Glass/Slate Friction Call

Conditioning your Slate Call

You always want to make sure your call surface is conditioned properly for effective calling. On a slate surface, Scotch-Brite will remove moisture, oil or smoothness from the plate that may affect the striker movement and friction.

Conditioning Your Striker Tip for Friction Calls

Keep your striker tip clear of any debris or dirt that may have built up on the tip. Some pot calls have a hole that serves just that purpose. If your call does not have a built-in striker cleaner, just take some sandpaper and sand off any build up. Taking care of your calls is important for creating the most realistic turkey sounds.

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Hobie Launches Elite Kayak Bass Open Series

Hobie Launches Elite Kayak Bass Open Series

Photo courtesy of Bassmaster Hobie® Launches Elite Level Kayak Series on Lake Chickamauga Kayak Fishing Pioneers Expand Presence In New Tournament Series, Offers Kayak Anglers Additional Competitive Opportunities Oceanside, CA (February 22, 2019) – Hobie is proud to announce the launch of a new elite-level kayak series, the Hobie Bass Open Series (BOS), on Lake Chickamauga this Saturday, February 23, and Sunday, February

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The Best New Fishing Gear and Tackle for 2019

The Best New Fishing Gear and Tackle for 2019

Fishing

Our fishing experts pick the most innovative new rods, reels, fishing accessories, and more.

Here's a sneak peek at best new fishing gear and tackle for 2019.

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Calling Tips for Rio Grande Turkeys

Calling Tips for Rio Grande Turkeys

Looking to hunt some Rio Grandes this year? Here’s a few tips from world champion turkey caller, Josh Grossenbacher and our friends over at Mossy Oak.

The post Calling Tips for Rio Grande Turkeys appeared first on Guide Outdoors.

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Regular Day in Australia: Huge Python Tries to Eat Bird [VIDEO]

Regular Day in Australia: Huge Python Tries to Eat Bird [VIDEO]

We cull the internet in search of the latest outdoors-related tidbits, YouTube clips, photos, memes, you name it. Stuff you HAVEN’T seen before, hopefully. If it’s amusing, entertaining, educational or astonishing, you’ll find it here. Check back every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday and see what’s new.

Today’s video has been making the rounds on social media, and for good reason.

This isn’t something you see everyday. At least here in the USA. Maybe this is the norm in Australia.

In it, a big python hanging from an electrical pole attempts to eat a big black bird known as a currawong.

Check it out:

WATCH: A python has been filmed trying to eat a currawong on the roof of a Kingscliff home. Warning: Video may upset some viewers. #9News | http://9News.com.au

Posted by 9 News Queensland on Tuesday, 19 February 2019

It’s unclear if the snake actually killed the bird, or if he’s looking for an easy meal.

Either way, we’re never going to Kingscliff, Australia.

The post Regular Day in Australia: Huge Python Tries to Eat Bird [VIDEO] appeared first on Guide Outdoors.

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