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Bridal Bling – Blog | Jos Alukkas Jewellery

Getting married soon? Well, you better start exercising those neck muscles, then. Be it our great Indian wedding, our menu, our decorations or our bridal jewellery, we always go BIG. No change there this year either, ladies, except that it all just got bigger—especially the jewellery!

Thanks to Bollywood brides Sonam Kapoor (who pretty much covered herself in jewellery) Deepika Padukone (who was also decked to the 19s in jewellery), Priyanka Chopra (maybe not as much, but still), and the like, bridal jewellery just went bigger, bolder and really out  there. So, while big is the size you should keep in mind, feel free to play around with the various styles.

Temple jewellery is trending a lot this year (again thanks to the Bollywood brides) and so is the long and heavy Rani mala. Both these styles highlight gold and is also more along traditional lines. However, go for precious stone-studded styles in temple jewellery to give it a more mod look. You can also opt for an antique finish or pure gold finish. Rani malas come with a mind-boggling variety of precious stones, pearls, gold beads, kundan work, filigree work and the like. You can even pair a really long rani mala with a slightly smaller one for a true regal look.

They’ve been bold statement pieces for ages now, but this year they’re trending as bridal jewellery. We’re talking about the choker. A thin long neck clasped by a choker has always been an eye-catcher. As a bride, you should opt for thick chokers with precious or semi-precious stone beads hanging at the neckline. Though slender necks have always been mandatory with chokers, the thick bridal style chokers can easily cover up a not-so-thin neck and leave many hearts burning.

Another trend of 2019 is floral jewellery—where flowers and buds made of fine colourful cloth are embedded into the jewellery. If you find it a bit too off-beat, you can totally rule the look with floral-patterned gold and diamond jewellery. Whether you go for a chunky look or for delicate pieces, not only will you be carrying off the latest trend, but you will be doing it with class.

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Brand Focus: Busch Burrs for Jewellery Making

Busch are a German company based in Engelskirchen, originally founded in 1905 by two brothers Erich Busch and Ernst R Busch.

Busch jewellery tools

Busch’s original aim was to provide better quality, precision tools to the dental industry which was still in its infancy at the time.

However, as production increased and their success grew, they found that their new innovations in cutting and abrasive rotary equipment were also very well suited to jewellery making – and so now Busch produce a variety of burrs and drill bits among a selection of other jeweller’s tools for stone setting.

Product innovation at Busch

Still managed by third-generation family member Gert Busch, Busch continues to break new ground when it comes to burr innovation. When the company first started, they produced some of the first dental carbide drills available in Germany, as well as ceramic bonded abrasives and diamond coated grinding instruments. Today the company continue to develop their diamond coated instruments using state of the art technology, always with the users’ improved experience at the centre of their ideology.

Busch carbide burrs

Material developments are key to the strength and efficiency of a burr, and manufacturers are constantly striving to improve these two factors to produce better products. Carbide is three times stronger than any steel, and it also has great heat and wear resistance so it’s easy to see why Busch products were so successful when they first appeared on the market. Its strength also means it is suitable to use with any metal both soft and hard, which makes it quite a unique material with a huge range of uses.

The carbide burr pictured above is one of Busch’s newer products and is made from isostatically compressed, finest grade carbide steel. These burrs are durable and powerful, and are designed for working on hard jewellery metals such as white gold, platinum and titanium with great efficiency. This shape of spherical burr in particular is good for shaping, texturing and creating indents for setting stones, and is recognisable as ‘high tech’ and ‘ultra durable’ by its gold band visible around the shaft.

Busch twin cut concave burrs

Another great innovation from Busch is their brilliant twin cut concave burr, which combines three processes (rounding, smoothing and shortening) into one swift and efficient manoeuvre. Perfect for chaton work, if you have never used one of these before it is like magic happening before your very eyes!

Manufactured from tungsten vanadium steel, these burrs offer precision and strength along with great resilience to wear which means you can expect them to last. As well as twin cutting geometric blades, these burrs have two chip channels which allow waste material to be quickly removed during the operation itself, reducing clogging and improving efficiency when creating your pieces at the bench.

High quality tools for jewellers

Whilst it is impossible to summarise every one of Busch’s high quality products in just one article, we will say this; the reputation of Busch jewellery tools is built on many years of research and innovation undertaken by one family dedicated to the production of quality items. Those items deliver dependable excellence time after time, making Busch a brand you can rely on in your jewellery making workshop.

Now you know more about Busch, why not discover which of their burrs is best suited to your project by taking a look at our guide to choosing the right burr for your design? Don’t forget about parts two and three of this series too, which cover the shapes of Busch burrs and the jobs they are intended for.

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May Birthstone Emerald Jewellery | Astley Clarke

The birthstone for May is the beautifully vibrant emerald. Emeralds have historically been associated with fame and wealth, having been worn and cherished by many monarchs, rulers and celebrities from Cleopatra to Elizabeth Taylor. Loved for its vivid green hues, an emerald can vary from shades of pale pistachio to deeper greens, and, very rarely, tones of teal and turquoise.

A fascination with the stone spans centuries. In ancient Greece and Rome, emeralds were said to be the gemstone of Venus, goddess of love and hope. Meanwhile, on the opposite side of the world, emeralds were cherished by the Incas and thought to be a source of eternal life by the Egyptians.

    Today, the iconic green of May’s birthstone holds different meanings. Emeralds with a softer, more soothing tone are said to represent loyalty and peace, whilst those with deeper greens are said to represent happy beginnings or new life in nature – making it the perfect spring stone.

With proper care, emeralds can retain their beauty for generations. Easy to maintain with long-lasting beauty, emerald jewellery makes the perfect gift to any May-born Taureans or Geminis, or anyone close to you as they symbolise truth, love and hope.

Putting a contemporary twist on emerald jewellery, our bestselling Mini Halo Hoop earrings are lined with bursts of emerald gems for easy-to-wear, colourful opulence.

    Stories of the Stone

During Cleopatra’s reign, the queen was allegedly adorned in emeralds day and night. When visiting dignitaries left Egypt, she would present them with her likeness carved into large emeralds. A once lost mine of Cleopatra’s emeralds, gifted to her by the Greeks, has been discovered in the years since she ruled.

Elizabeth Taylor, who incidentally and famously played Cleopatra, shared a passion for the gem, with her iconic emerald pendant selling in 2011 for $6.5 million.

    The emerald takes its name from the ancient Greek ‘smaragdus’ which literally translates as ‘green’, a word which was in turn derived from from the Semitic ‘baraq’, meaning ‘shine’.

Discover your birthstone and its meaning with our Birthstone Guide.

Or explore more gemstones with our Gemstone Guide.

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Face the Glam – Blog

Every person has unique features that set them apart from others. But did you know that choosing jewellery that matches the shape of your face can accentuate your features and can make you look even more stunning? Be it earrings, nose pins or maang tikkas, the size and shape and even colour of these items of jewellery can highlight or tone down your features and boost your confidence and unique charm. Here’s a quick look at which design and style will match your face and get you a fixed place under the spotlight wherever you go.

Round Face Round faces are as wide as they are long. Those with round faces should go for earrings that contrast with the roundness and provide an illusion of length and at the same time highlight features like the eyes and nose. Thin long danglers and necklaces with pointed or geometric pendants will work well to provide the longer, thinner look. Those who love nose pins can opt for small dainty ones or rings.

Oval Face Oval faces are wide at the forehead and slightly longer than they are wide. People with oval faces are probably the luckiest when it comes to jewellery. They can carry off just about any design and style with panache. However, it would be nice to avoid jewellery that can create a more longish look to the oval shape. While earrings can help to balance the length of the oval shape, care must be taken in choosing them. If you’re in the mood for danglers, go for those that are short and fat. Studs and short earrings too will help highlight your features well. What’s more, hoops and teardrop-shaped earrings also look awesome on oval faces. When choosing neck pieces, go for shorter ones that stay near your neckline. Nose pin lovers can go all out with any size or shape you fancy.

Square Face A square face has more or less the same width from top to bottom. Since you already have a strong jawline and cheekbones, choose jewellery that will soften the angular look—but just a tad (we love a woman with sharp features). So, when choosing studs, go for rounded shapes or teardrop shapes. If you are looking for danglers, pick thin and long ones over wide and short chandeliers. Hoops are another classic match to a square face. Longish necklaces can also help to add length to the square face. Wearing nose pins can also help soften your look in a very attractive way. Like for those with oval faces, any size and shape should suit a square face too.

Heart-shaped Face A heart-shaped face is broad at the forehead with a sharp chin. To balance out a heart-shaped face, opt for choker necklaces or necklaces that lie very close to the neckline. For earrings, choose to wear teardrop earrings or danglers that end just above your chin. This will help fill out the jaw and cheek area and leave you with a fuller look. Large nose pins can also help add fullness to your face.

Pear-shaped Face

The pear-shaped face is the opposite of the heart-shaped face. This means that you have a narrow forehead and a wider chin or jawline. Your jewellery should ideally soften the jawline and give a fuller look to the cheekbones. And nothing seems to do this better than thin, long, narrow earrings. Nose pin fans, go for small-sized ones or rings. All these options are easily available at any Jos Alukkas store in gold, rose gold and platinum and inlaid with diamonds, precious and semi-precious stones and enamel work. Also, visit the online store for latest in jewellery.

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How To Make Byzantine Chain

Looking for a new jewellery making technique to diversify your designs? Learning how to make byzantine chain or a byzantine weave is an excellent way of branching out into different looks that could become the basis of a new collection.

Follow our step by step guide below on making byzantine chain. Once you’ve got the basics, you can then use this technique to create not only chains, but unique earrings and rings too.

What you’ll need:

Chain nose pliers (Two pairs are handy for this project if you have them)

Jump rings (Size depends on how large you want your byzantine chain to be. For a smaller weave try a 4mm jump ring)

How to make byzantine chain in 6 steps

Step 1: Start with two jump rings

Take your first jump ring. Place it in the jaws of your chain nose pliers with a gentle but firm grip. Now with your other set of chain nose pliers, twist the jump ring until the join is completely flush and no longer noticeable. Using two sets of chain nose pliers make this easier, as you can accurately shift the jump ring so that you have a completely flush join. Now repeat this process with the other jump ring.

Step 2: Add your two closed jump rings to another

Once you’re happy that your first two jump rings are tidily closed, take another and open the join with a sideways motion using your pliers. Add your two closed jump rings to your open jump ring and close it securely. You should be left with two closed jump rings looped through one closed jump ring.

Step 3: Add a new jump ring to your two jump rings

Take a new jump ring and open it with your pliers. Loop it through the two jump rings that are already connected to the one jump ring. Now close it with your chain nose pliers.

Step 4: Add two more jump rings to the two you’ve just added

Repeating that technique, take another two jump rings and open them with that twisting motion using your pliers. Loop them through the two jump rings one by one, and close off. You should now be left with three double loops.

Top tip: At this stage you may want to use a pipe cleaner or something similar to thread through the first two jump rings. Tie this off so that you keep your byzantine weave organised as you work. With so many jump rings, it’s easy to get confused!

Step 5: Now for the fiddly part!

Now you have your three double rings in place, take the two end jump rings (the ones that are not attached to your pipe cleaner). Flip them back on themselves, taking one jump ring left and one right. Open another jump ring, slide it between the two end loops and catch the two loops that you‘ve just pushed back. Then you can close the jump ring you’ve just added. Don’t forget to add your second jump ring in the same position – remember that you always work in pairs with this project.

Step 6: Rinse and repeat

Once you’ve perfected the above steps, you can repeat this process again and again to create the correct length of byzantine chain for whatever design you’re creating.

Making byzantine chain with jump rings galore!

Learning how to make byzantine chain is a great way of expanding on your designs with minimal effort and without spending much on supplies. Once you’ve perfected the byzantine chain pattern, you could experiment by attaching shorter lengths of byzantine to earrings designs, or by separating each byzantine chainmail link with beads. Just remember that you’ll need to stock up on jump rings to create multiple pieces!

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Moissanite vs. Diamond: What’s The Difference?

Since its 1893 inception in a meteor crater, moissanite has been regarded as a rare and scarce mineral, bolstering its desirability among consumers and jewellery makers alike. Moissanite is often used as an alternative to the diamond in jewellery making, and many people are unable to tell the two gemstones apart.

But there are ways to tell the difference between these two precious stones. If you’re debating using moissanite as part of your next jewellery making project, or you’re simply curious about the stone and its synergy with the diamond, read on to find out more!

Firstly, is moissanite a diamond?

No, moissanite is not a diamond.

In our article “What Is Moissanite?” we delve further into the origins of moissanite, its chemical formula and refractive index. But for now, moissanite is an entirely different stone to the diamond. While moissanite may look almost identical to the diamond, it is not the same entity.

You may be wondering “is moissanite a natural gemstone?”, to which the answer is technically yes. However, given moissanite’s rarity, it is mostly synthetically produced.

Moissanite vs. Diamond: Value

Is moissanite valuable? The price you pay for moissanite stones can differ greatly.

Moissanite gemstones are a fraction of the price of diamonds. The cost of a moissanite stone will only really vary with sizing. Typically, a moissanite stone will sell for 10 or 15% of the price of a diamond, with similar clarity and cut.

Moissanite vs. Diamond: Hardness

Both consumers and jewellery makers favour harder stones due to their ability to withstand knocks and accidents without getting scratched easily. That’s partly why diamonds are so desirable, with a score of 10 on the Mohs scale.

But moissanite doesn’t differ all that much. At 9.5 on the Mohs scale, moissanite scores higher than any other gemstone besides than the diamond.

Moissanite vs. Diamond: Clarity and Colour

Does moissanite look like a diamond? Diamonds can be graded on colour, but moissanite cannot. Instead, moissanite is graded by its closeness to being colourless.

Grade 1: Colourless (D-E-F)

Grade 2: Near-colourless: (G-H-I)

Grade 3: Faint colour: (J-K)

As for inclusions, moissanite can commonly have needle-sized inclusions that are invisible to the naked eye. Most gemstones feature inclusions as they are part of the crystalline structure and are unique to every stone. You can see them under magnification, but they don’t compromise the clarity.

Due to moissanite’s natural occurrence being so rare, it is typically manufactured in labs. This means lab conditions can control how the stones look and can remove any internal flaws that could compromise clarity.

Moissanite vs. Diamond: Brilliance

Heralded for its ability to reflect white light better than a diamond, moissanite has a BRI (brilliance refractive index) score of approximately 2.65 – 2.69. The diamond has a BRI score of 2.42.

Moissanite’s brilliance is simply what makes it sparkle. And because it’s less likely to get greasy and dirty, it will stay sparkly for longer in between cleanings.

If you want to compare moissanite’s brilliance to gemstones other than the diamond, we’ve included some examples below:

Ruby – BRI 1.77

Sapphire – BRI 1.77

Emerald – BRI 1.58

So, is moissanite a good diamond alternative?

Now you’re aware of the differences between moissanite and diamonds, you’ll be able to make your own judgement on whether moissanite would make a good diamond alternative. Moissanite has features that outshine the diamond, but diamonds are marketed to evoke tradition, beauty and magical quality.

If you’d like to learn more about moissanite and its properties, check out our article “What Is Moissanite?”. Or if you’re searching for moissanite to use in your next jewellery making project, browse our selection of moissanite gemstones at Cooksongold today.

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Jewellery Chain Repair: Everything You Need To Know

Repairing jewellery for your customers is often a large part of business that comes through your doors unexpectedly, and can be a good way of making some extra money alongside your jewellery designs. So it pays to know the ins and outs of jewellery chain repair. From basic repairs to soldering chain links, we’ve put together this jewellery chain repair guide so that you can make neat, professional chain repairs for your customers.

How to fix a broken necklace chain

There are many different types of chain out there, and some are much easier to fix than others. Learning the basic principles of a necklace chain repair will help you progress to some more complex jewellery chain repair techniques such as soldering fine jewellery chain links together.

Not sure how to tell the difference between the various styles of chain? Take a look at our Beginner’s Guide to Different Types of Chain to learn more.

So, let’s start with the basic principles of how to repair chain. This can only be done with chains such as cable chain or curb chain where the chain itself is made up of interlocking links. Other more complex patterns such as rope chain or ball chain may need more intricate work.

Identify the problem. Where has the chain broken? Is it the clasp or a chain link? Most wear and tear on jewellery chains occurs at the point where the clasp joins the necklace as this is where the most stress is placed. If the spring on the clasp is broken or the clasp itself has come loose, you may need to find a clasp that closely matches and reattach. If it’s the chain link that’s broken, read on!

Study the chain. You’ll need to take a close look at the chain you’re working on to see how each link has been fixed together. If it’s a basic link through link attachment, you’re in luck!

Is there an open link remaining? If there is, you can make the chain link repair directly. If not, you may need to buy or make a new link to replace the old one. If there’s an open chain link remaining, simply loop it through the link at the other end of the necklace. Once securely in place, take your snipe nose pliers and close the chain link in the same way you would close a jump ring. Use a twisting motion to bring the two ends together. That way you don’t lose the overall form of the chain link.

Need to replace the chain link? No problem. Try to match up the chain link as best you can so that you can make your repair as above. If you’re struggling to find a match, you can make your own new link with fine gauge wire.

Neatly close the chain link. Whether you’ve made a new chain link or simply repaired the broken one, the most important thing to remember is to secure the link as tightly as you possibly can. Take your pliers and gently squeeze the chain link closed until the join is completely flush.

Our basic snake chain repair trick

There are some chains that seem impossible to repair! But there are some basic tricks you can use to get around this. For example, snake chain appears impossible to repair because of the way it’s constructed. So instead of repairing the tiny chain links themselves, we’d recommend repairing the end of the snake chain by adding a chain extender to it instead. That way you’ll maintain the rest of the chain and fix the problem area where it’s weakest – at the clasp.

Soldering snake chain can be tricky. But it can be done! You’ll just need a steady hand, patience and a lot of practice to get this right. You’ll need to solder your chain extender to each end of the snake chain to make the repair. Once you’ve mastered this, this next bit of advice on soldering chain links will be a breeze!

Soldering chain links: Tips and tricks

Soldering chain links can seem very fiddly at first but once you’ve gotten to grips with these tips and tricks your customers will come back to you again and again for jewellery chain repairs.

Don’t forget to stock up on soldering tools and supplies before you practice soldering chain links together.

Are you repairing a very fine chain with small links? Use a black marker to make a mark on the chain links close to where the solder join should be. This will help you solder as accurately as you possibly can.

Make sure the ends of each chain link are as flush as possible. The better the join in each chain link the better the solder will run and the stronger the solder joint will be. One trick you can use to make sure you have a straight, flush join, is to bring all of your damaged jewellery chain links together. Line them all up with the joins of each one facing the same way and clamp them tightly in a pair of parallel pliers. Once in place, run your jeweller’s saw down the line of chain links and start sawing along the joins. Once you’ve accurately sawn through each chain link you should have a straight, flush join ready for soldering.

Now for the soldering part! When working on such a small scale it’s not surprising that the power of your torch can blow your solder out of place. Not to mention, it can leave your solder balled up messily on your chain link, making your chain link repair look messy. The best way of getting an accurate solder join on your chain links without soldering them together is by using a soldering probe. Paint a small amount of flux onto the join of your chain link. Then take a small amount of solder and place it onto the end of your soldering probe. Heat this with your torch until the solder flows onto the end of the soldering probe. Now gently touch the solder-covered probe to the join of the chain link and apply heat to the soldering probe, not directly at the join. That way the heat will travel down the soldering probe enough to re-melt the solder, helping it flow through the join. Once the solder flows, remove the pick from the chain and quench, pickle and rinse your work.

Now you’ve learnt the basics of jewellery chain repair you can add this to your jewellery making repertoire, and even make it a permanent service for your existing customers.

For your latest chain designs make sure you stock up at Cooksongold. We stock loose chain and finished chain in a variety of alloys and styles to help you speed up your jewellery manufacturing process.

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How To Make Wire Wrapped Earrings

Wire wrapping is a skill that anyone can pick up and master in jewellery making. The beauty of making wire wrapped jewellery is that there is no right or wrong way of going about it – you can create free form patterns with your wire, so making wire wrapped earrings is an excellent way for beginners to get started.

That’s why we’ve put together this simple step by step guide on how to make wire wrapped earrings.

Jewellery tools and supplies you’ll need:

Need an intro to jewellery making wire before you get started with your DIY wire wrapped earrings? Check out our Beginner’s Guide to Jewellery Making Wire & How To Use It for advice on which size wire to use and a handy wire gauge conversion chart.

How to make wire wrapped earrings step by step

Step 1: Preparing your jewellery wire

For this wire wrapped earrings tutorial, we’d recommend taking your 0.8mm wire and cutting it to a length of approximately 24mm. The length of your wire may vary depending on the size of your stones. If the beads you’re using are particularly small you may find that you have a lot of excess wire, but don’t worry. As you practise this wire wrapping technique you’ll be able to better gauge the amount of wire you need per stone.

Step 2: Thread your bead and start wrapping!

Thread your silver wire through the hole in your chosen bead, making sure that you leave some extra wire (approx. 50mm) poking out of the top of your bead to attach your ear hook later. Now take the length of the wire at the bottom of the bead and start wrapping.

With the first wrap, make sure you wrap as tightly as possible. To keep the bead securely in place, take your first wire wrap back up in the direction of the top of the bead, where the short piece of wire is shooting out. Now wrap the wire in a downwards motion, again quite close in position to the top of the bead, wrapping tightly as you go.

Now you’ve secured the stone with your first wrap you can get a little more creative. Continue the wrap the jewellery making wire in any direction you like. Follow the curve of the stone or create sharp geometric patterns – the choice is yours!

Step 3: Finish your wire wrapping neatly

Happy with the pattern you’ve created with your wire wrapped earring? Once you’ve wrapped the wire back to the top of the bead where the top of the wire is sticking out, you can now begin to tidy things up. Take the end of the wire and begin tightly wrapping it around the base of the wire that is at the top of the bead.

How many times you wrap the wire is completely up to you – we’d recommend wrapping it at least three times for a neat, professional finish. You may find that getting a tight wrap at this stage is a little tricky. Use your snipe nose pliers to get a good grip on the wire and to pull it tight as you wrap.

Tip: Remember that as you wrap the wire there may be small gaps between each wrap. You can tidy this up by taking your snipe nose pliers and gently squeezing the loops together. This will bring the loops together and leave you with a much more professional look to your handmade wire wrapped earrings.

Step 4: Cut and neaten your jewellery wire

Once you’re happy with the position and look of the three loops that are wrapped around the base of the top piece of wire, you can snip the excess wire off with your wire cutters. If there are small burrs you may want to run a needle file along the edge of the cut to remove any sharp edges. You can then tuck the end of the wire away underneath one of the existing loops so that it’s secure. Go back and neaten the loops with your snipe nose pliers if needed.

Step 5: Create a small loop at the base of the wire

Just above those three loops you’ve created, you can now make a small loop. This will hold your earring hook so it’s important that this is secure and has no gaps for your jump ring or earring hook to come loose. Using the end of your round nose pliers, wrap the wire in a complete loop and push the excess to the side.

Making sure you have a complete loop, take your wire cutters and cut the excess wire. As mentioned above, if you have any sharp burrs or edges where you’ve cut the wire, run a needle file over the surface of the end of the wire to remove and sharp edges.

Step 6: Add your earrings findings

Now you’ve made the main part of your wire wrapped earrings, you can finish the design with a jump ring and an earring hook of your choice. All you need to do is open your jump ring using your snipe nose pliers.

Tip: Always remember to open jump rings using a side to side motion instead of stretching the loop out. It you don’t use this twisting motion to open your jump rings it’s very difficult to make sure they retain their uniform circle shape.

For more information on using jump rings, read our beginners’ guide on how to use jump rings.

Once you’ve closed your jump ring you can now add your chosen earring hook. Thread it through the jump ring and, using your snipe nose pliers, squeeze the earring hook wire closed so that there is no chance of it coming loose from the jump ring.

Now you know how to make simple wire wrapped earrings, the possibilities to come up with new variations on the basic design are endless. You can modify the stone, the shape and size of the stone, the wire wrapping pattern, as well as the kind of earring finding you use.

Whether you wrap your beads in a complete spiral or you prefer a more natural look, make sure you invest in high quality jewellery making wire at Cooksongold.

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How To Make Wire Wrapped Earrings

Wire wrapping is a skill that anyone can pick up and master in jewellery making. The beauty of making wire wrapped jewellery is that there is no right or wrong way of going about it – you can create free form patterns with your wire, so making wire wrapped earrings is an excellent way for beginners to get started.

That’s why we’ve put together this simple step by step guide on how to make wire wrapped earrings.

Jewellery tools and supplies you’ll need:

Silver wire (0.8mm)

Glass beads (your choice!)

Earring hooks

Jump rings

Wire cutters

Round nose pliers

Snipe nose pliers

Needle file (optional)

Need an intro to jewellery making wire before you get started with your DIY wire wrapped earrings? Check out our Beginner’s Guide to Jewellery Making Wire & How To Use It for advice on which size wire to use and a handy wire gauge conversion chart.

How to make wire wrapped earrings step by step

Step 1: Preparing your jewellery wire

For this wire wrapped earrings tutorial, we’d recommend taking your 0.8mm wire and cutting it to a length of approximately 24mm. The length of your wire may vary depending on the size of your stones. If the beads you’re using are particularly small you may find that you have a lot of excess wire, but don’t worry. As you practise this wire wrapping technique you’ll be able to better gauge the amount of wire you need per stone.

Step 2: Thread your bead and start wrapping!

Thread your silver wire through the hole in your chosen bead, making sure that you leave some extra wire (approx. 50mm) poking out of the top of your bead to attach your ear hook later. Now take the length of the wire at the bottom of the bead and start wrapping.

With the first wrap, make sure you wrap as tightly as possible. To keep the bead securely in place, take your first wire wrap back up in the direction of the top of the bead, where the short piece of wire is shooting out. Now wrap the wire in a downwards motion, again quite close in position to the top of the bead, wrapping tightly as you go.

Now you’ve secured the stone with your first wrap you can get a little more creative. Continue the wrap the jewellery making wire in any direction you like. Follow the curve of the stone or create sharp geometric patterns – the choice is yours!

Step 3: Finish your wire wrapping neatly

Happy with the pattern you’ve created with your wire wrapped earring? Once you’ve wrapped the wire back to the top of the bead where the top of the wire is sticking out, you can now begin to tidy things up. Take the end of the wire and begin tightly wrapping it around the base of the wire that is at the top of the bead.

How many times you wrap the wire is completely up to you – we’d recommend wrapping it at least three times for a neat, professional finish. You may find that getting a tight wrap at this stage is a little tricky. Use your snipe nose pliers to get a good grip on the wire and to pull it tight as you wrap.

Tip: Remember that as you wrap the wire there may be small gaps between each wrap. You can tidy this up by taking your snipe nose pliers and gently squeezing the loops together. This will bring the loops together and leave you with a much more professional look to your handmade wire wrapped earrings.

Step 4: Cut and neaten your jewellery wire

Once you’re happy with the position and look of the three loops that are wrapped around the base of the top piece of wire, you can snip the excess wire off with your wire cutters. If there are small burrs you may want to run a needle file along the edge of the cut to remove any sharp edges. You can then tuck the end of the wire away underneath one of the existing loops so that it’s secure. Go back and neaten the loops with your snipe nose pliers if needed.

Step 5: Create a small loop at the base of the wire

Just above those three loops you’ve created, you can now make a small loop. This will hold your earring hook so it’s important that this is secure and has no gaps for your jump ring or earring hook to come loose. Using the end of your round nose pliers, wrap the wire in a complete loop and push the excess to the side.

Making sure you have a complete loop, take your wire cutters and cut the excess wire. As mentioned above, if you have any sharp burrs or edges where you’ve cut the wire, run a needle file over the surface of the end of the wire to remove and sharp edges.

Step 6: Add your earrings findings

Now you’ve made the main part of your wire wrapped earrings, you can finish the design with a jump ring and an earring hook of your choice. All you need to do is open your jump ring using your snipe nose pliers.

Tip: Always remember to open jump rings using a side to side motion instead of stretching the loop out. It you don’t use this twisting motion to open your jump rings it’s very difficult to make sure they retain their uniform circle shape.

For more information on using jump rings, read our beginners’ guide on how to use jump rings.

Once you’ve closed your jump ring you can now add your chosen earring hook. Thread it through the jump ring and, using your snipe nose pliers, squeeze the earring hook wire closed so that there is no chance of it coming loose from the jump ring.

Now you know how to make simple wire wrapped earrings, the possibilities to come up with new variations on the basic design are endless. You can modify the stone, the shape and size of the stone, the wire wrapping pattern, as well as the kind of earring finding you use.

Whether you wrap your beads in a complete spiral or you prefer a more natural look, make sure you invest in high quality jewellery making wire at Cooksongold.

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4 Wire Wrapping Tips To Refine Your Designs | The Bench

Wire wrapping techniques in jewellery making are vast and range from making basic loops to producing intricately stone set, wire wrapped pendants. There are many designs you can create using wire wrapping techniques, so if you’re just starting out and experimenting with different wire jewellery designs, you’ve come to the right place.

Read our guide on the fundamentals of wire wrapping for beginners. And don’t forget to take advantage of our top 4 wire wrapping tips below, to help you quickly get to grips with wire wrapping techniques that will refine your jewellery making skills.

Wire wrapping supplies you’ll need to practice the fundamentals:

Your wire gauge conversion chart

Some basic principles about jewellery wire before you get started:

Jewellery wire materials

You can buy jewellery making wire in a variety of different metals, all of which have their own properties and varying levels of hardness. Avoid using craft wire or aluminium wire. This will be too soft to hold its shape, whereas stainless steel wire will be too hard to work with.

You’ll notice that most reliable jewellery supplies providers will only carry those wires in alloys that are perfect for wire wrapping such as copper, brass, sterling silver, and gold. When you’re first starting out, practise on the cheaper alloy such as copper and brass.

Hardness of the metal

Wire hardness (sometimes referred to as wire temper) is the stiffness of the wire. Wire hardness can range from very soft to soft, to half hard and hard. For your wire jewellery designs to be formed and stay in your desired shape, work with half hard wire. Soft wire will lose its shape as you work with it and hard wire will be incredibly difficult to form into the shape you want. Half hard wire is just right.

Wire size/diameter/gauge

There are many different diameters of jewellery wire. Generally, most UK suppliers will list wire diameter in millimetres, but most jewellers in the US refer to wire diameter as the gauge. Having said that, you’ll often hear a lot of UK jewellers using the term ‘gauge’ as well. This can make converting wire diameters a little confusing! So to make the process of choosing jewellery wire fit for purpose we’ve put together a wire gauge conversion chart that will make buying wire supplies simple.

Jewellery wire shape

There are several pre-cut wire shapes you can choose to work with: round, D-shaped, square and twisted wire. Start out with round wire until you’re comfortable with the wire wrapping techniques you’d like to perfect. Then you can freely experiment with other jewellery wire shapes for a different take on your designs.

Our top 4 wire wrapping tips and tricks

Top tip 1: Make sure you file the ends of your wire

Whatever wire jewellery patterns you’re working with, it’s important to make sure that you finish off the ends of your wire by filing. Often when you snip your wire with your wire cutters some sharp edges can be left behind.

The last thing you want is for your customers to scratch themselves, so using a flat file, or flat needle file, smooth away any sharp edges. That way, the end of the wire will be professionally finished and completely safe to wear.

Top tip 2: Keep your round nose pliers close!

Your round nose pliers will be invaluable when you’re perfecting your wire jewellery designs, so make sure you keep them close. When you first start producing jump rings or other tight loops for your designs it can be difficult to keep them uniform.

One way of conquering this is to mark a specific point on your pliers using a marker or perhaps with your scribers. This will ensure that when you start forming loops with your pliers there’s no need to guess. Simply use the mark in your pliers for a consistent loop every time.

Top tip 3: Don’t forget to work harden your wire when finished

To ensure your wire wrapped jewellery stands up to everyday wear and tear, you’ll need to work harden it. Work hardening is the process of forcing wire into a harder state, giving it strength and therefore allowing it to hold its shape.

How do you work harden your wire wrapped jewellery design? This can be done in a number of ways. One of the most common is to hammer the wire with a rawhide mallet, although there are numerous other methods including twisting wire with a pair of pliers, pulling the wire straight multiple times and more.

Work hardening can be done before and after you have completed your design. Using a rawhide mallet and a steel bench block to hammer your wired jewellery once completed can work well however be aware that this may not work for all cases.

Top tip 4: Remember to close loops to keep your gemstones in place

Wire wrapping gemstones? Your main concern will be making sure you close all loops in your wire so that your gemstone remains firmly in place. The great thing about wire wrapping jewellery is that you can close loops in a creative and functional way. So, practise different ways of keeping gemstones firmly in place with your wire until you reach a design that works with your jewellery making style and works functionally.

Now you’re set to put all of the above wire wrapping techniques into practice, you’re ready to stock up on your chosen wire jewellery supplies. Choose from copper, brass, silver, yellow and white gold wire depending on your signature jewellery making style.

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What is Marcasite? | The Bench

For the essentials you need to know about marcasite, including its origin, how it is used in jewellery and the different cuts of marcasite gemstones that are available, look no further than the below guide.

Where does marcasite come from?

Genuine marcasite comes from the mineral pyrite, which is a beautiful, metallised stone similar in appearance to gold which is why it is often referred to as ‘Fools Gold’.

The basic composition of pyrite is iron sulphide, but true marcasite has to be white iron sulphide based. It has a cubic or ‘pyritohedral’ structure, meaning it has 12 sides most usually occurring with pentagonal faces (five edges) and forms beautiful shapes quite naturally without the need for any cutting in some instances. Pyrite is extremely brittle when cut, which is why facetted stones tend to be very small.

History of marcasite jewellery

In most jewellery, the term ‘marcasite’ is generally used to describe pyrite and not technically marcasite, but this has been the case for hundreds of years.

For many, the term marcasite conjures up images from the Victorian era using tiny profusions of stones to grain set elaborate and decorative pieces, which would often interconnect making them multi-functional. Another  period of popularity was the 1930s within the Art Deco style, which again was the perfect vehicle for monochrome designs as almost all marcasite without exception was set into silver or white metal.

Marcasite seemed to fall out of favour for many years, and it would often find itself resigned to grandmother’s jewellery box or selling second hand at flea markets and antique fairs – but buying habits are changing. Metallics have been and continue to be a huge fashion trend, but equally, shoppers are also looking for links to the past with antique-style pieces in the form of brooches and hair pieces, so once again popularity has swung in favour of marcasite.

Where to buy marcasite gemstones

Always at the forefront of fashion, Swarovski® produce a range of Genuine Marcasite Gemstones in a variety of sizes which fit perfectly into our modern day requirements. Using their wealth of stone cutting expertise, Swarovski® have precision cut each and every one of these Genuine Gemstones into perfect specimens, and there are a number of different cuts to choose from.

For those who want a more modern look, Swarovski Gemstones™ offer marcasite in a round brilliant cut with 58 facets (shown above), but if you want something more vintage there is the beautiful table cut, which has far fewer facets and encompasses the look most remember when thinking of marcasite.

It doesn’t stop there; Swarovski® also produce Genuine Marcasite Gemstones in a round cut with a flat back, as well as in a square cut in a similar shape to a pyramid which are both ideal for repairing antique jewellery or creating new and fresh jewellery designs. There are also baguette cut and checkerboard cut gemstones on offer, with flat bases for easy setting and perfect for building into larger designs.

Although small, measuring between 1mm and 3-4mm, these tiny stones can become very impactful when used en masse. Their dark metallic colour and clean cuts can be built up to create beautiful strong swirls and lines of monochrome sparkle, which can look just as current today as they did Victorian times. They are also relatively inexpensive to buy, so you can afford to be experimental without too much worry.

So, if you want to try using marcasite in one of your jewellery making projects, why not start by exploring the range of Swarovski® Genuine Marcasite Gemstones available at Cooksongold today.

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Top Wax Carving Tools For Beginners and Professionals

The beauty of carving wax for casting is that you can start with as little or as many wax sculpting tools as you like, and still create something that is unique and completely handcrafted. Once you’ve meticulously shaped and filed a block of wax into the beginnings of a jewellery design, there’s nothing quite as satisfying as seeing your designs take shape in the casting process.

To help you get started, here are some of the wax carving tools you’ll need as a beginner (and those that you’ll want to have as a pro jewellery maker too).

Wax carving tools for beginners (those you’ll definitely need)

Sheet wax or wax tubes?

Depending on the project you’ve decided to start with you’ll need to know whether your project will require wax blocks or wax tubes.

Wax sheets

Wax sheets are best used to form a raised design of no more than a few millimetres. Most wax sheets are easily pliable at room temperature making it simple to apply drawings and cut and file away, leaving behind a raised relief that you can add to pendants, brooches or earrings. The best thing about using wax sheets is that you can be incredibly accurate even with the smallest of designs.

Wax blocks are easily sawed, carved, drilled or milled and can even be turned on a lathe. Wax blocks burn out cleanly from moulds, are highly flexible and can be used for creating extremely thin wall sections.

Top tip: Using tracing paper to mark your design out on wax sheet? Puncture the outline of your design with a push pin so that you can accurately saw your design along the puncture marks.

Wax tubes

Wax tubes are best kept for producing rings but can also be used to create pendants and medallions depending on your design. There are two main types of wax tubes you can pick up. Each one has a slightly different purpose. Choose the completely round wax tube when making a simple ring shank with no raised settings or designs that may require more material at the shoulders of the ring shank. For these more complex designs, use the flat sided wax tube. This will leave you more wax to carve out your complex design.

Wax wires

If you’re experimenting with layering wax onto your design for more of a three-dimensional effect, you can also use wax wires. These tend to come in assorted sizes and shapes and can be molded to create decorative elements on rings or on settings to complement a stone you’re using. They can even be used to simply add more height to the wax sheet that you’re working with too.

Top tip: Practice using the different shaped wax wires to produce your own findings such as hinges and clasps. This can be fiddly, but you’ll soon find a style and technique that works for you.

Wax saw blades

Already have your jeweller’s saw? Great. You’ll just need to buy some specific wax saw blades. These blades are coarse and spiral shaped so that they’re less likely to get clogged up with wax as you work. As the teeth of the blade are spiraled, this means that you’re not limited to sawing in a forward motion and you’re not limited to the depth of your piercing saw either.

Wax files

For shaping and finishing off your wax cast, wax files are a must-have. You’ll notice that specialist wax files are coarser than most metal working files to cut through the wax as you initially shape your design. You can also invest in specialist wax carving needle files of all shapes and sizes so that you can create intricate lines and patterns with ease.

Wax ring stick

The wax ring stick is essential when creating your own rings with wax carving tools. It will allow you to accurately size your ring without much effort at all. It is almost identical to a triblet apart from its sharp bladed edge. It’s this blade that cuts through the wax as you turn it inside of the wax ring shank. As you twist the ring stick, it will leave behind curls of wax and give you an accurate read of the size as you work.

Wax carving tools for professionals (those you’ll WANT to invest in)

The below are our favourite carving tools you’ll be lusting after as your wax carving projects progress. These professional wax working tools will speed up your carving process making it much easier to manufacture your designs in bulk and experiment with new wax carving techniques.

Wax carver set

For precision carving and an infinite number of shaping tricks and techniques you’ll need to pick up a wax carver set. This can include several hand carving tools with pointed, flat and rounded edges to help you precisely shape your wax. There are multiple wax carving tool sets to choose from, so make sure that you choose the one that best suits your work and your budget. You’ll need to experiment in order to get a better idea of exactly what works for you, so if possible, borrow from a friend or colleague until you figure out which types of wax carving tools suit you.

Did you know? Leading wax carving professional Kate Wolf has produced her own brand of Wolf wax carving tools with varied tips ranging from scribes and hollowers to scalpels and detail knives. They’re a great investment when you want to expand on your wax carving tool kit.

Electric wax carver

If you’re looking into speeding up your hand carving process you may want to invest in an electric wax carver. Most electric carvers will come with a selection of tips and are mains operated. With the luxury of a heated tip and a pen-like grip, wax carving becomes easier and quicker. An electric wax carver is a no brainer if you’re making wax casting your focus as a jeweller.

Top tip: Use a low heat for more intricate patterns and switch to a high heat when cutting through harder waxes.

Wax shaping burrs

If you’re already familiar with pendant motors for drilling and polishing metal work, you’re in luck! This tool can easily be transformed into a wax carving tool simply by adding a specific wax carving burr. You may be able to use some of your existing pendant drill burrs to experiment with your own wax carving techniques. Just make sure that the burrs you’re using a strong enough to cut through the wax. High quality steel burrs should do the trick.

These are our top picks when it comes to wax carving tools. Whatever stage you’re at – whether you’re a complete beginner, or pro looking to revamp your tool kit – find everything you need from our selection of wax carving tools and wax working equipment.

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Designer of the Month: Katherine Lawrie

Having been surrounded by jewellery making for most of her life, jeweller Katherine favours traditional techniques and materials when creating her handmade jewellery pieces, and takes lots of inspiration from the countryside around her home in the South of England. Read the following interview to discover more about her background and her jewellery designs.

Let us know a bit about yourself, detailing your background, study and training in the jewellery making industry.

I was immersed in jewellery making from an early age. My father, a jeweller, worked from home, so my sister and I would gravitate to his studio if we were bored. I didn’t set out to become a jeweller but took a conventional route via Art College and University. Jewellery design and making seemed eventually to be an obvious choice. I’m very privileged to have been in business for 20 years, working my business around my family and vice versa.

I currently work in my Dad’s studio which he left behind to emigrate to the US. It’s a rustic converted stable nestled beneath the South Downs, not far from Brighton and the South coast of England.

Tell us about your work – are there any particular materials or techniques that you favour?

I am a traditionalist when it comes to materials, and tend to favour silver, gold and semi-precious stones. I love texture, so nearly everything I make has a surface textured which either has been roller textured or hammered. I favour bezel setting as that where my confidence lies.

On my wish list is to learn how to set diamonds, and I would also love to master etching and anodising aluminium. There just isn’t enough time in a working week to experiment and play at the moment.

How would you best describe your design style?

My design style is influenced by lots of things so my work has no one source or style. A lot of my work uses traditional techniques and the design is led by this. The texture of the metal and beauty of the gemstones lead to the end design.

I currently have several ranges of work. My newest, ‘Tales of the countryside’, is inspired by folk art, British wildlife and its symbolism, and is whimsical. I exhibit with the Society of Botanical Artists in London and Germany, and the work for those exhibitions is often a lot more in depth, sculptural and botanically correct.

As a jewellery maker, where do you like to get your inspiration from for your pieces?

Inspiration is gathered from several sources. Symbolism in my work is important to me, my customers love that the pieces they buy have a story or a hidden talismanic meaning.

I can’t help but be inspired by the British countryside. Living not far from the South Downs and the Sussex coast means I’m never short of somewhere to go and blow away the cobwebs and gain an idea or two!

Do you have a piece that you have made which you favour or are particularly proud of?

I would find it hard to sell something that I wasn’t proud of. But I do sometimes favour some pieces more than others. I’m very pleased when special pieces go to a good home.

I also love working with people to make jewellery for special occasions. Sometimes it’s a happy time, sometimes a sad one. Knowing that something I have made means so much to someone else is really distinctive.

What is the one item in your jewellery making workshop that you could not live without?

I have a couple of favourite tools, they are old and battered and I’ve had them for a while now but there’s nothing quite like them.

I have a lovely pair of pliers, half rounds which are probably from the 40s, my Maun parallel pliers, a setting tool that is an old screw in a hand vice which my Dad made for me before I went to college, and I couldn’t make jewellery without my piercing saws.

What upcoming trends do you see being popular soon?

I try to avoid making ‘trendy’ jewellery, although I always keep an eye out for what people are buying. That being said, I think that we will see a resurgence in recycled jewellery; whether it’s making jewellery from broken down elements of other jewellery, reworked metal from old jewellery or using throwaway materials to make jewellery. It’s hopefully the way the world is going.

I’m keen to start using other materials like aluminium and plastic in my work and to reuse old metal.

What is the most valuable lesson you have learnt from your time in the jewellery making industry?

Plan, never stop learning and never make assumptions.

Do you have any particular advice that you would give to up and coming jewellery designers, or someone interested in getting into jewellery making?

Making a living from doing something you love is a privilege. It’s hard work earning from being a maker or an artist and you need to be good at so many things. If advice is offered, take it.

…and finally, time for a bit of fun in our quick-fire round! Tell us your favourite…

…colour – cerise

…biscuit – shortbread

…place – I’m happiest in the countryside or at the beach, but do love visiting the hustle and bustle of the big smoke as long as the trains are behaving!

…film – The Adjustment Bureau

…drink – Prosecco or a nice cup of coffee whilst working

For more details on Katherine’s work, you can visit her website, or feel free to check out her Facebook page or her Instagram page.

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Know your jewellery – Blog

When it comes to jewellery, we are sure you know your stones and your styles and your metals quite well. But how well do you know about the standards and certifications that come with your jewellery? Here’s some handy microlearning just for you.

BIS hallmark:

Stands for Bureau of Indian Standards.

Hallmarking system for gold and silver

Certifies the purity of the metal

916:

 Certifies the purity in carat and fineness

 Is a part of the hallmark seal

Signifies 91.6 grams of pure 24-karat gold per 100 grams of alloy

Denotes 22-karat divided by 24-karat (22 ÷ 24 = 916)

GIA certification:

Stands for Gemological Institute of America

Most reputed diamond certification authority

Developed the 4Cs and the GIA International Diamond Grading System

GIA certificates can be verified online.

4 Cs of Diamonds:

Colour

GIA’s color-grading scale for diamonds is the industry standard

Scale begins with the letter D, representing colourless

It continues with increasing presence of colour to the letter Z, or light yellow or brown

Clarity

Refers to the absence of inclusions and blemishes

GIA Clarity Scale contains 11 grades, from flawless (FL) to obvious inclusions (I3)

Most diamonds fall into the VS (very slightly included) or SI (slightly included) categories

The 11 grades are Flawless (FL), Internally Flawless (IF), Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS1 and VVS2), Very Slightly Included (VS1 and VS2), Slightly Included (SI1 and SI2), and Included (I1, I2, and I3).

Cut

Cut is responsible for a diamond’s fire, sparkle and brilliance

It is the traditional 58 facets, precisely cut and defined

The shape of the diamond is often mistaken for its cut

Round is the most common shape used in diamond jewellery

All other shapes are known as fancy shapes.

Carat

Denotes the weight of the diamond

One carat is equal to 0.2 grams (the weight of a paperclip)

Majority of diamonds used in fine jewellery weigh one carat or less.

PS. You can get all these details and more from the staff at Jos Alukkas. Every Jos Alukkas showroom has experienced staff who are willing to help customers understand the jewellery they are paying for. Happy shopping!

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A Guide to the GreenLion Saw Frame

The story behind the GreenLion jeweller’s saw frame is both fascinating and unusual, and a true example of entrepreneurial spirit at its best.

Its designer is a man called BJ Johnson, otherwise known as Soba One, who is the owner and featured artist of GreenLion Tattoo Studios based in Michigan, USA. Having trained as a metalsmith, GreenLion Tattoo Studio also encompasses a gallery and metal workshop where Johnson designs and builds tattoo machines as well as his wonderful saw frame.

Features of the GreenLion saw frame

His design for the unusual frame was born out of frustration with traditional, adjustable jeweller’s saw frames where he was finding the tension difficult to achieve and having various issues with the handle. In Johnson’s own words, “all good design is rooted in simplicity”, so he set about simplifying the saw frame into a one piece, 11 gauge, sturdy steel frame with an injection moulded handle for comfort and grip.

The second key feature of the GreenLion jeweller’s saw frame is the way in which the tension is achieved to hold the blade securely. Traditionally you compress the saw frame against the bench edge with your sternum, position and secure your saw blade with the screws and then release which allows the frame to spring back thus creating tension in the blade.

However, the Greenlion saw frame is much stronger than a traditional frame and requires far less compression to achieve the tension required for a blade. Johnson has added unique “not just for looks hooks” at either end, which allow you to compress the frame using just your finger and thumb – meaning you no longer have to push it against the bench, which requires far less effort.

The third and final feature is the reversible thumbscrews, making this frame ideal for both left and right-handed jewellers – but this is also quite handy if they are getting in the way when sawing using a jig or vice; simply reverse the thumbscrews and away you go!

So to recap, in the GreenLion jeweller’s saw frame you have:

A one-piece steel frame with an injection moulded handle

Unique hooks at either end of the frame to allow easy compression

Reversible thumbscrews

On top of all this, the frame looks really good too as it has been designed by someone creative who cares about these things. Usually, jewellery tools are just functional, but this is aesthetically pleasing as well as being beautifully functional, a feature which is appealing to many. Those who try the frame seem to fall in love with it, so it seems to be rapidly developing a bit of a cult status amongst its users. Take a look at some of the many customers’ testimonies out there which show just how well loved this jewellery tool is:

“The GreenLion saw frame is by far the best I have used. Not only is it a beautiful tool and very lightweight, but the curved frame allows for fantastic balance, and the thick handle is very comfortable to hold.”

“Having seen the GreenLion saw frame in store for the first time I knew it was a tool I had to have, it is not only beautiful in design but it is easy to use with no unneeded extras. The handle is comfortable and weighted which I prefer to some of its lightweight competitors. This saw frame is built with quality and style making it the perfect new addition to every jeweller’s bench.”

“I do not regret my purchase as I am really pleased the results. The frame is really well balanced and is extremely easy to load with the correct tension. I love the fact that the depth of the frame is so much deeper than other standard jeweller frames. The fact that the frame is curved gives added flexibility. The handle is larger than its contemporaries and extremely comfortable and lessens hand fatigue during larger jobs. Worth every penny, looks good with professional results.”

Image: Daisy Grice Jewellery

Where to buy a GreenLion saw frame

The Greenlion saw frame is only produced in small batches and is exclusively available through Cooksongold in the UK, so this is not something you are going to see everywhere. On the face of it, you might initially look at the price of the frame and reject it on that fact alone. However, once you discover how and why it was developed you can appreciate just why this saw frame costs a little more than a standard jeweller’s saw frame. This is not produced by a large manufacturer as part of a huge range; it is a carefully devised product, designed by a tattoo artist and metalsmith in America who wanted to solve a problem.

Want to add this saw frame to your own workbench? Order yours today from Cooksongold and see for yourself why it is such a popular tool among jewellery makers.

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How to Use Gallery Strip | Cooksongold

Looking for ways to use gallery strip in your handmade jewellery projects?

Decorative gallery strip, otherwise known as gallery wire, is perfect for a variety of applications and can be easily transformed into a number of jewellery pieces. From using it to add a simple detail to a design to creating an eye-catching ring, there are plenty of ways you can incorporate gallery strip into your work.

To give you some inspiration, here are just a couple of ways to use gallery strip and beaded wire which you can consider when planning your next jewellery design.

Want to learn more about gallery strip first? Discover what it is and how versatile it can be in this blog article.

How to Make Silver Stacking Rings Using Gallery Strip

Follow this tutorial by Lydia Niziblian to discover how easy it is to make beautiful stacking rings using berry gallery strip or beaded wire.

Level of design: Beginner

What you’ll need:

Sterling Silver Berry Gallery Strip (NVZ 023 or NVZ 024) and/or Sterling Silver Oval And Rondelle Beaded Wire (NVZ 028 or NVZ 026)

Saw Frame (e.g. 997 3322)

Saw Blades (e.g. 997 3323)

Round Marked Triblet Sizes A-z+6, Steel (e.g. 997 3601)

Needle files (e.g. 999 528)

Nylon Ring Bending Pliers (e.g. 999 716)

Easy Silver Solder Paste (PAT 021)

Soldering Equipment (e.g. 999 096Q)

Rawhide Mallet (e.g. 997 3118)

Polishing Equipment (e.g. 999 096E)

Optional: Emery Paper (e.g. 973 070)

Before you start

Trim the leading edge of your chosen strip or wire to the start of the design.

Step 1

Cut the strip or wire to the length you want (you can bend it around the triblet to the correct ring size first then mark it off). Saw the strip or wire at a clean junction, making sure you saw at a point that when the ring is soldered it will form a continuous design.

TIP: If necessary, err on the side of it being a little shorter than you want, as the finished ring should easily be stretched using a hide mallet and triblet.

Step 2

Use a needle file to file flat the edges that are to be soldered.

Step 3

Use ring bending pliers to bend the strip or wire into a ring shape, pushing the edges together neatly. Hold the ring up to the light to check that the joint is snug.

Step 4

Syringe a tiny amount of solder paste onto the join, and solder the join closed. Quench and pickle the ring.

Step 5

Tap the ring into shape using your rawhide mallet and triblet.

Step 6

Check the ring to see if the solder join needs any cleaning up – if so, you can do this with needle files or emery paper. Finally, polish the ring using your preferred method.

How to Make a Cabochon Ring with a Gallery Strip Setting

Find out how to create a ring featuring an inverted heart gallery strip cabochon gemstone setting in this step by step tutorial by Lydia Niziblian.

Level of design: Intermediate

What you’ll need:

Your choice of metal for ring band, such as Sterling Silver D Shape Wire 3mm x 2mm (LSA 300), Sterling Silver Sheet 1mm (CSA 100) or Sterling Silver Round Wire 1.5mm (HSA 150)

Saw Frame (e.g. 997 3322)

Saw Blades (e.g. 997 3323)

Nylon Ring Bending Pliers (e.g. 999 716)

Needle files (e.g. 999 528)

Hard Silver Solder Strip (CTD 500)

Soldering Equipment (e.g. 999 096Q)

Round Marked Triblet Sizes A-z+6, Steel (e.g. 997 3601)

Rawhide Mallet (e.g. 997 3118)

Sterling Silver Inverted Heart Small Gallery Strip (NVZ 029 or NVZ 020)

10mm round cabochon gemstone (e.g. blue agate 61AG CA01 or 61AG GA10)

Side Cutters (e.g. 999 3053)

Easy Silver Solder Paste (PAT 021)

Sterling Silver Sheet 0.5mm (CSA 050)

Optional: Steel Mesh (e.g. 860 092)

Wet and Dry Paper (e.g. 975 070)

Polishing Equipment (e.g. 999 096E)

Metal Burnisher (e.g. 999 AJL) or Agate Burnisher (e.g. 997 1662)

Step 1

Cut the chosen metal for your ring band to the desired size, then use your ring bending pliers to bend the metal for the ring band so the edges are touching.

Step 2

Use a flat needle file to make sure the two edges of the metal are clean and fit together snugly. Hold the ring up to the light when the edges are pushed together to ensure you have a good join.

Step 3

Place a small pallion of hard solder onto the join of your fluxed ring, and solder then quench.

Step 4

Place the ring on the triblet and tap with a rawhide mallet to shape.

Step 5

Use a needle file to tidy up the ring. If using a D shape band, file a flat plane on the edge as this will make it easier when soldering onto the gallery strip setting later.

Step 6

Wrap your chosen gallery strip tightly around your gemstone. Cut at the overlap using side cutters, or mark and saw where required. Use ring or half round pliers to line up the edges neatly, ready to solder.

TIP: Ensure your overlap is neat, so the pattern of the wire will run smoothly.

Step 7

Flux the join and place the gallery strip on a tiny pallion of hard solder. Solder, heating gently to avoid overheating the wire edges. Quench, then check the gemstone fits comfortably into the setting with no gaps. Remove the stone.

Step 8

Flip the setting over, and syringe easy solder paste around the base, then pace the setting onto a piece of 0.5mm sheet just larger than the setting. Ideally you want to heat the piece from beneath to avoid melting the gallery strip, so use steel mesh to raise the setting and heat from below then quench.

TIP: Alternatively, you can turn the setting upside down and heat the base of the setting to solder.

Step 9

Carefully saw around the base of the setting and use a needle file followed by fine wet and dry paper to file the setting smooth. You should now have a smooth bezel cup ready to solder to your ring band.

Step 10

Place the setting upside down on your soldering block, squeeze a small amount of easy solder paste into the centre, and hold your ring band in place with tweezers. The flat edge you filed earlier should be flush to the back of the setting. Solder the pieces together, then quench and pickle.

Step 11

Polish the settings using your preferred method (using a barrelling machine is ideal for this). Gently push your gemstone into the clean, dry and polished setting.

Step 12

Use a burnisher to gently push the setting over the stone.  Start at the cardinal points, and gradually work your way around, ensuring the setting is flush to the top of the stone. If needed, give your piece a final polish.

Feeling inspired? Get started with using gallery strip and beaded wire today by taking a look at our varied selection – with so many decorative designs available, there are plenty of ways you can add it to your jewellery making projects.

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What is Gallery Strip? | Cooksongold

Gallery wire, or gallery strip, is a flat band of metal made up of a continuous pattern which is usually cut into a series of upright prongs or columns, as well as a number of other decorative designs.

Sterling Silver Inverted Heart Gallery Strip

The term ‘gallery’ refers to the area directly beneath the stone, and often joins the base of a setting to the functional setting surface. In some instances, the gallery strip itself can be used to set a gemstone and in others it is merely used for decorative purposes – that all depends on the design that you choose.

Ways to Use Gallery Strip

The functionality of gallery strip depends very much on its integral design which determines its strength, but also (and of equal importance) the type of gemstone that you want to set. Most gallery strip is made of silver and is extremely pliable, making it easy to bend and shape. The downside of this is that it is unlikely to be strong enough to hold a facetted gemstone within the tips of the design – although on the flip side, many designs of gallery strip are perfectly suited to set cabochon stones securely, so as with everything there are good points and bad points.

Wondering how to get started? Discover how to make a stone setting from gallery strip with this step by step tutorial for a cabochon gemstone ring.

It is also important to emphasise just how versatile gallery strip can be, as after all, it is simply a piece of decorative metal which can be manipulated and applied in any way you see fit. Whether it’s a decorative border for a hand raised bowl, or a delicate ring which has simply been hammered round and soldered to a flat ring band, the level of detail and design in gallery strip gives jewellers many different options. The beautiful and delicate appearance of gallery strip also means it is strong enough visually to be the main feature in any piece.

If you’re not quite ready to try your hand at gemstone setting, why not follow this jewellery making project and make stacking rings from gallery strip instead?

You will find that gallery strip is often sold alongside bezel strip, which is plain and intended to be used purely to make gemstone settings. The two can be used in conjunction with one another, with the bezel providing the functional part of the setting and the gallery providing the decorative element. Once soldered together, the two pieces will become much stronger and form a fully functional and decorative strip with a minimum of work!

Where to Buy Gallery Strip

We stock a wide selection of both gallery strip and bezel strip, with a variety of designs to choose from. However, it is worth remembering that the gauge of the strip will differ from design to design, as this will ultimately have a bearing on its strength. For example, some are only 0.5mm, whereas others are 0.9mm which is a considerable difference. Just make sure you check the gauge when picking your design to ensure your strip is fit for the purpose intended.

Sterling Silver Leaf and Berry Gallery Strip

So, if you fancy using gallery strip in one of your handmade jewellery projects, why not take a look at some of the stunning designs available in our range today? For similar materials you can use to embellish your design, don’t forget to explore our selection of beaded wire too.

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