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SØSTERSKAP

CONTEMPORARY NORDIC PHOTOGRAPHY

ÉGLISE SAINTE-ANNE

3 JULY - 24 SEPTEMBER 2023

10.00 AM - 07.30 PM

BILLETTERIE

Ikram Abdulkadir (1995), Jeannette Ehlers (1973), Fryd Frydendahl (1984), Bente Geving (1952), Hallgerður Hallgrímsdóttir (1984), Annika Elisabeth von Hausswolff (1967), Heiða Helgadóttir (1975), Hilde Honerud (1977), Tuija Lindström (1950–2017), Monika Macdonald (1969), Hannah Modigh (1980), Eline Mugaas (1969), Maria Pasenau (1994), Raakel Kuukka (1955-2022) & Yeboyah (1996), Emma Sarpaniemi (1993), Lada Suomenrinne (1995) and Verena Winkelmann (1973).

Søsterskap highlights photographers’ strong role over several generations in the Nordic countries. The exhibition explores the welfare state from a perspective of intersectional feminism. Often referred to as ‘the Nordic model’, this system is characterized by a public sector that provides all citizens with social security and welfare services, including daycare and education, and has brought significant improvement to living and working conditions. Basic values underlying the model are openness, tolerance, and the conviction that all people are equal. “The welfare state is a woman’s best friend” is a feminist slogan.

The exhibition brings together photographers based in Denmark, Finland, Iceland, Norway, and Sweden. Since the 1980s, we have witnessed many active photographers, whose works–based on different approaches from documentary to conceptual–reflect the socio-political context of the welfare state.

The interplay between photography and this social democratic model is here seen as a key factor in defining the panorama of camerawork from the region. The project makes this model visible while questioning certain aspects, harnessing photography to investigate the friction between the subjective, the collective and the political as it plays out within the welfare state. Family life, gender roles, labor, ethnicity, and colonialism are some of the topics discussed in Søsterskap, which also considers the darker sides of the welfare state based on exclusion and continuous economic growth that is accelerating the global ecological crisis.

CURATORS: ELINA HEIKKA, CHARLOTTE PRÆSTEGAARD SCHWARTZ, ANNA-KAISA RASTENBERGER, ÆSA SIGURJÓNSDÓTTIR, NINA STRAND, ANNA TELLGREN AND SUSANNE ØSTBY SÆTHER.

PUBLICATION: SØSTERSKAP, OBJEKTIV #27, 2023.

#arles

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GREGORY CREWDSON

EVENINGSIDE – 2012-2022

MÉCANIQUE GÉNÉRALE

3 JULY - 24 SEPTEMBER 2023

10.00 AM - 07.30 PM

ACCESSIBLE

BILLETTERIE

Over the past three decades, Gregory Crewdson has been fleshing out a portrait of middle America, that America of picket-fence suburbia gazing wide-eyed at the glimmers of a fading dream. His cinematographically staged photos have gradually pieced together the fragments of a twilight world. His œuvre stunningly interweaves an autobiographical dimension with the portrait of a gloryless America. Wan lights and deserted streets are recurring tropes in his works, which are prepared like movie sets to produce photos that quite astonishingly remain images from nonexistent films.

This exhibition brings together three bodies of work made between 2012 and 2022. They offer unique insight into a decade of creation and reveal the axes of the universe that has posited Gregory Crewdson as one of the major figures of photography. Cathedral of the Pines and An Eclipse of Moths mark a pivotal phase due to the intimacy with which they vibrate, crystallized by the images’ locations, which are connected to the lives of Gregory Crewdson, his romantic and creative partner Juliane Hiam, and their children. They imbue the autobiographical dimension with political overtones, most subtly expressed in Eveningside which conclude the trilogy, shown for the first time in France.

The trilogy is introduced with the earlier series, Fireflies (1996), stripped of the sets and elaborate postproduction that usually accompany his works. Fireflies stands apart from the rest of his œuvre and was kept away from the public eye for a full decade. With its swarm of nuptial ballets in a constellation-studded twilight, Fireflies reveals the world’s poetic pulsation, and thus provides a counterpoint to the world’s slow pulverization depicted in the trilogy. The fireflies convey a deep penchant for contemplation. Here lies one of the underpinnings of his œuvre, a fine oscillation between poetics and politics, between a modest sensitivity and the glance carried on the backwash striking a world caught by a slow brutality.

Jean-Charles Vergne

CURATOR: JEAN-CHARLES VERGNE

EXHIBITION COPRODUCED BY THE GALLERIE D’ITALIA, INTESA SANPAOLO’S MUSEUMS, TURIN, AND THE RENCONTRES D’ARLES.

PUBLICATION: GREGORY CREWDSON, EVENINGSIDE 2012-2022, GALLERIE D'ITALIA – SKIRA, 2022.

WITH THE SUPPORT OF THE TEMPLON GALLERY.

#arles

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ARTY GUIDE

- 1

GUY BOURDIN: STORYTELLER

24 February – 31 August 2023

An exhibition dedicated to Guy Bourdin, that delves into the photographer’s singular lens and the striking impact of his vision as a storyteller, whose goal was not to shock, but rather to urge viewers to engage with the images and be intrigued, to question and to play. The idea behind the exhibition is to pay tribute to the work of French photographer Guy Bourdin by portraying his compositional and narrative intent, delving beyond the provocation that has always been associated with his work. In the vein of filmmaker Alfred Hitchcock and artist Edward Hopper, whom he greatly admired, Bourdin was essentially a storyteller, capable of condensing entire novels, usually crime or noir, into a single shot.

ARMANI / SILOS - Milan

- 2

BASQUIAT × WARHOL

PAINTING FOUR HANDS

Between 1984 and 1985, Jean-Michel Basquiat (1960-1988) and Andy Warhol (1928-1987) created around 160 paintings together in tandem, “à quatre mains”, including some of the largest works produced during their respective careers. Keith Haring (1958-1990), who witnessed their friendship and collaboration production, would go on to speak of a “conversation occurring through painting, instead of words,” and of two minds merging to create a “third distinctive and unique mind.”

“Basquiat × Warhol. Painting four hands” is the most important exhibition ever dedicated to this extraordinary body of work and brings together more than three hundred works and documents including eighty canvases jointly signed by the two artists. Also featured are individual works by each as well as a set of works by other major artists (Futura 2000, Michael Halsband, Keith Haring, Jenny Holzer, Kenny Scharf...…) in order to evoke the energy of the New York downtown art scene of the 1980s.

FONDATION LOUIS VUITTON - Paris

- 3

MAN RAY & FASHION

22 April – 13 August 2023

The exhibition includes photographs he took for prominent couturiers, such as Paul Poiret, Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel, as well as for important fashion magazines, including Harper’s Bazaar, Vanity Fair and Vogue. Man Ray was an innovator who employed technical ingenuity and humour to ultimately change the way dress would be depicted. His experimental procedures and surrealist winks of the eye brought art and fashion closer together and still influence fashion photography today. Contemporary fashion designers continue to find inspiration in his work, and this is especially true of Belgian fashion designers, with their predilection for Surrealism.

Momu - Belgium

- 4

Sarah Bernhardt

And the woman created the star

Sarah Bernhardt, (1844-1923), was an emblematic figure who spanned the 19th and 20th centuries. The “Divine Sarah”, who was an artist as well as an actress, takes centre stage at the Petit Palais in an exceptional exhibition to mark the centenary of her death. The museum holds important collections of works linked to the actress, including the spectacular portrait of her that was painted in 1876 by her friend Georges Clairin and donated by her son Maurice.

Petit Palais - Paris

- 5

Elliot Erwitt

A rétrospective

The exhibition “Elliott Erwitt. A Retrospective” is a tribute to one of the most important photographers of the 20th century, who has been a member of Magnum Photos since 1954.

The exhibition presents his work through a collection of 215 black and white and color photographs.

An American photographer of European descent, Elliott Erwitt is a multi-faceted artist: he’s at the same time a painter of intimacy, a photojournalist, a commercial photographer, a film director, and a portrait photographer of famous personalities such as Marilyn Monroe, Jackie Kennedy, Charles de Gaulle, Ernesto “Che” Guevara, Alfred Hitchcock, Nikita Khrushchev…

Musée Maillol - Paris

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AGNÈS VARDA

LA POINTE COURTE, FROM PHOTOGRAPHS TO FILM

CLOÎTRE SAINT-TROPHIME

3 JULY - 24 SEPTEMBER 2023

09.00 AM - 07.00 PM

BILLETTERIE

Agnès Varda cherished a particular fondness for Sète. Sétoise by adoption as a teenage refugee there during World War II, she returned to the town every year until the beginning of the 1960’s. She began in 1947 as an amateur photographer, then turned professional. Her Rolleiflex captured friends, sailors, the quays of the southern town, water jousts on the canals… and soon the fisherfolk and narrow traverses of Pointe courte, the working-class neighborhood by the Étang de Thau that anchors her first film, shot in 1954.

Agnès Varda’s contact sheets reveal her photographic journey. When we compare the 800-odd photos she took in Sète with the painstaking selection the young woman undertook in 1953 to prepare her film, we begin to see her vision. These are not film stills of the shooting or the set, but images antedating the idea of the film or forming part of its conception. These reference and scouting photographs, collected on nine sheets, were her inspiration for scenes, atmospheres, even particular shots. Her favorite subjects and motifs are confirmed by their reappearance in contemporary or subsequent prints.

Alternating a graphic and a realist style, Agnès Varda produced a radical film, appreciated by cinephiles and critics of the time. Many saluted the originality of its script and especially the daring of its maker, known as the official photographer of the Festival d’Avignon and the Théâtre National Populaire. Produced on a shoestring, La Pointe Courte’s artistic independence broke with the codes of the era’s cinema to the point of being qualified as a precursor of the Nouvelle Vague.

With her first photography show in June in her courtyard on the rue Daguerre (Paris 14) and the shooting that summer of her first film, 1954 crystallized for Varda the connection between these two modes of expression, announcing a unique body of work.

Carole Sandrin

CURATOR: CAROLE SANDRIN, ASSISTED BY ELISA MAGNANI. WITH THE HELP OF ROSALIE VARDA AND THE CINÉ-TAMARIS TEAM: SHÉRINE EL SAYED TAIH, JULES MARTIN. EXHIBITION COPRODUCED BY THE INSTITUT POUR LA PHOTOGRAPHIE DES HAUTS-DE-FRANCE AND THE RENCONTRES D’ARLES.  WITH SUPPORT FROM KERING | WOMEN IN MOTION.

#ARLES #photography

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WIM WENDERS

MY POLAROID FRIENDS

3 JULY - 24 SEPTEMBER 2023

10.00 AM - 07.30 PM

ACCESSIBLE

BILLETTERIE

In late 1976, I shot The American Friend in Hamburg and Paris. It starred Bruno Ganz and Dennis Hopper and was based on the novel Ripley’s Game by Patricia Highsmith.

At the time, Polaroid pictures corresponded to what you’d nowadays do on your smart phone. Polaroids were the analogue predecessor of instant photography. They truly represented a photographic notebook, only that the cameras spat out printed “originals”. I recorded my location survey and pinned the little prints on the wall of the production office. The script person took Polaroids of every scene for continuity reasons. I photographed my actors during preparation and sometimes in between scenes. And even in the story, Polaroids were used, in our case by Dennis Hopper who played the dubious character of Tom Ripley and who became so much our “American Friend” during the film that we changed its title from Framed to what it has become ever since.

In that scene, Tom Ripley is alone in his big house in the middle of the night and tormented by remorse, because he has manipulated the innocent German craftsman Jonathan Zimmermann (played by Bruno Ganz) into committing a murder. The way he acted out his pain was by taking a series of self-portraits with the help of his SX-70 camera, finally lying down on his pool table and letting the pictures fall down on him like rain. The scene somehow caught an early insight into the narcissist obsession we all later suffered from when we began to take selfies as if it was the most normal thing on earth. Well, it is now. Who would have thought then that we’d even get used to the fact that our cameras have lenses on both sides! That was unthinkable then, when Ripley turned the Polaroid camera on himself like a gun in order to commit suicide.

In another scene Ripley drives his fabulous Thunderbird through Hamburg and records his thoughts on a portable Walkman. Another reminder of the long and inevitable way into the digital realm…

Wim Wenders

wim-wenders.com

WITH THE COLLABORATION OF WIM WENDERS FOUNDATION, DÜSSELDORF.

#ARLES #photography

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KARÉN KHACHATUROV

Strayed Utopian at EST Galerie

EST Galerie is delighted to invite Karén Khachaturov and present his distinctive selection of photographs «Strayed Utopian» from years 2016 – 2022 in the 11th area of Paris March, 30 – April 5, 2023.

Karén Khachaturov’s work is vibrant, playfull and surrealist. Yerevan, Armenia born and based photographer, delicately wrap real people and complex subjects into his pastel universe. The visual resonance between the color palette (Utopie) and bizzare personages in his latest body of work facilitates the discourse of Dystopia without words.

His career as a photographer began with taking pictures documenting the street but soon after he chose to focus on portrait photography. It seduces thanks to a memorable soft yet striking visual imprint which has become his signature. Slowly, he stepped into fashion and commercial photography, which also shaped his artistic vision. He often uses the commercial colours and pop surrealistic entourages to open a conversation about the new reality- the digital era. In his pastel coloured universe the objects seem to stay the same, but have lost their primal essence.

His works are focusing on the modern sense of the alienation and the loss of empirical experience. In most of his works, the heroes are half people half objects, who look senseless and bored from the alienated communications and the mass cultivated individualism, which as a result turned them into good looking objects with bright entertaining colors, but lack of actual characteristics or senses.

The artist has exhibited his work worldwide from Tel Aviv, Beijing, Shenzhen, Tbilisi, New York to Yerevan and Paris. He also has published several photo books including "Pastel Poetry" in 2019 and "Dystopia" in 2021 but his taste for art and his talent does not stop there. Karén Khachaturov is also a composer of hip-hop music.

“ The consumerism has changed the concept of happiness turning it from a never-ending source of motivation into a one more “Must Have”. A color to try, a device to use, a shape to wear and a feeling to experience. The happiness in the frames of it has to suit certain rules. Anything othervised from those rules may be excluded from its concept, denied and forgotten, because it creates a brick in the perfectly retouched consumeristic world.”

The opening will take place in the presence of the artist on Thursday March 30, 2023 from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. at the EST Galerie, 76 rue Saint Maur, 75011. The event will mark the start for the gallery in its pursuit to build a cultural dialogue between the Eastern Paris and contemporary art scene of Armenia.

ESTGALERIE.COM

#art #photography

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AZZEDINE ALAÏA / ARTHUR ELGORT / FREEDOM

Together, Azzedine Alaïa and Arthur Elgort shaped the freedom of the 80s. At the same time as the fashion designer saw his feminine ideal embodied in the street and by the ever-increasing number of clients, the photographer left the studios, took over the movement and the cities as a natural and new setting. Both actively contributed to renewing the representation of the now assertive, determined, independent woman. The exhibition presented at the Azzedine Alaïa Foundation compares timeless photographs essential to the designer’s iconography, as well as more confidential shots, with Alaïa’s most iconic clothes.

Elgort swapped his Polaroid for a Nikon. He developed a true passion for all types of new and vintage cameras whose techniques and unique features he appreciated. He became a master of the camera. The chief editor of Vogue, Alexander Liberman, saw a few photographs by the newcomer and encouraged him then introduced him to the editors of his illustrious magazine. He did his early shoots in collaboration with Polly Allen Mellen and Grace Coddington. Within a year he became famous. The paths of Azzedine and Arthur obviously ended up crossing in Paris. As they worked together on magazine shoots, Elgort and Alaïa shared a dislike for superfluous sets and props, which got in the way of Elgort’s photographic vision and Alaïa’s sculptural creations.

His black and white photos were intended to look like snapshots. He preferred explosive movement to the clichéd poses of fashion models. He opened the windows of studios to let in the light and turned the street into his theatre. Alaïa instinctly identified not only with his innovative but rigorous approach. When the images were published, it was hard to tell who was acting as a foil for whom: was it the joyful photography that invited to garment to move, or was it the figure-hugging, suggestive dress that provided the movement captured in the image? The models captured by Elgort’s lens and dressed by Alaïa became the ambassadors for new forms of expression where two artistic approaches came together but never clashed. Linda Spierings, Jeny Howarth, Janice Dickinson, Bonnie Berman, Veronica Webb, Frederique Van der Wal, Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, Cindy Crawford, Linda Evangelista, Stephanie Seymour were like divinities dancing on the frieze created by Alaïa and Elgort.

This osmosis consists of a unique exhibition in Paris dedicated to photography and fashion, whose revival was orchestrated by Alaïa and Elgort. Playfulness, intuition, and spontaneity were at work here. The future showed that this unbridled game would mark a new chapter in fashion photography, demystifying couture creations to bring them within everyone’s reach. Arthur Elgort was born in New York. Azzedine Alaïa in Tunis. Both hoped that the practise of official art would guide their destiny. Elgort aspired to become a painter and enrolled at Hunter College. Alaïa learned the techniques of sculpture at the School of Fine Arts in Tunis. Elgort did not feel fulfilled in the discipline he had adopted. Similarly, Azzedine refused to become a secondrate sculptor. While dressmaking work for a select clientele allowed him to finance his studies, the clothes he made built him a reputation as a budding designer whose virtuosity was acknowledged. Alaïa took the risky decision of going to Paris and, in the mid-1950s. His story began.

A similar story characterised the early career of Arthur Elgort. His artistic ambitions deviated when, in the 1960s, he went to a camera shop. He bought a Polaroid camera and learned how to use it, exploring his environment, showing his pictures to his teachers, and abandoning the past. It became clear that his future layed in lenses, dark rooms, and photographic papers. He would be a photographer. The way they evolved in their discipline in exile was different, however. While he was preparing to sit behind the gleaming sewing machines at the great Paris maisons, Alaïa’s destiny led him to become a mysterious and sought-after private couturier. Simone Zehrfuss, Louise de Vimorin, the Comtesse de Blégiers, Arletty commissioned bespoke garments from him. The women who tracked him down and recommended him gave him a greater understanding of the body and allowed him to perfect his technique. They would be his “school”, until Thierry Mugler, his leading admirer, persuaded him to become a fully-fledged fashion designer.

#fashion #photography

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FASHION WEEK / Paris Femme Automne Hiver 23-24

FEVRIER / MARS 2023

lundi 27 février 2023

16h00 IFM Master of Arts 

16h30-19h00 Niccolò Pasqualetti

17h00-19h30 Rui 

17h30 Weinsanto 

18h00-20h30 Benjamin Benmoyal 

20h30 Vaquera 

mardi 28 février 2023

9h30-12h00 Cfcl 

10h30-13h00 Maitrepierre 

11h00 Victoria/Tomas

12h30 Mame Kurogouchi

13h30-16h00 Heliot Emil 

14h30 Christian Dior 

15h30-18h00 Boutet Solanes

16h00 Dawei 

16h00-18h30 HKFG AW 23 

16h30-19h00 Anne Isabella 

17h00 Anrealage 

17h30-20h00 Pressiat 

20h00 Saint Laurent

mercredi 01 mars 2023

10h30 Courrèges 

11h00-13h30 Litkovskaya 

11h00-13h30 Róisín Pierce

11h30-14h00 Nehera 

12h00 The Row 

13h30 Undercover

15h00 Dries Van Noten 

15h30-18h00 Meryll Rogge 

16h00 Cecilie Bahnsen 

17h00-20h00 Minuit 

17h30 Paco Rabanne 

19h00 Acne Studios 

20h30 Balmain 

jeudi 02 mars 2023

10h00-18h00 Alexis Mabille 

10h00 Shang Xia

11h00-14h00 Véronique Leroy 

11h30 Off-White 

13h00 Gauchere

14h00 Chloé 

15h30 Givenchy

16h30 Uma Wang S

17h00-19h30 Ruohan

18h00 Rick Owens

18h30-21h00 Boyarovskaya 

19h00 Schiaparelli 

20h30 Isabel Marant 

vendredi 03 mars 2023

10h00-18h00 Alexandre Vauthier 

10h00-18h00 Christian Wijnants 

10h00 Leonard Paris 

11h30 Loewe 

12h00-15h00 Lutz 

12h30-15h00 Didu 

13h00 Issey Miyake

14h00-18h00 Jitrois 

14h30 Giambattista Valli 

15h00-17h30 Andrew Gn

16h00 Nina Ricci 

17h30 Victoria Beckham 

19h00 Yohji Yamamoto 

20h30 Coperni 

samedi 04 mars 2023

9h30 Junya Watanabe 

10h30 Ester Manas

11h30-14h00 Situationist 

12h00 Noir Kei Ninomiya 

13h00 Vivienne Westwood 

14h30 Hermès 

15h00-18h00 Rochas 

16h00 Elie Saab 

17h00 Comme des Garçons 

17h30-20h00 Florentina Leitner 

18h00-20h30 Enfants Riches Déprimés 

18h30 Alexander McQueen 

20h00 Ann Demeulemeester

dimanche 05 mars 2023

10h00-18h00 Barbara Bui 

10h00-18h00 Dice Kayek

10h00 Lanvin 

10h00-16h00  Margaret Howell 

11h30 Balenciaga 

13h00 Ottolinger 

14h00 Akris

16h00 Palm Angels 

16h30-19h00 Chen Peng

17h00 Atlein  18h30 Pierre Cardin  20h00 Valentino 

lundi 06 mars 2023

9h00-12h00 Paul Smith 

9h30 Stella McCartney

10h00-13h30 Paula Canovas del Vas 

10h00-18h00 Ungaro  10h30 AZ Factory  11h30 Zimmermann  12h30 Shiatzy Chen  14h00 Louis Vuitton  15h00 Heill  15h30 Sacai  16h00-18h30 Calvin Luo  16h30 Rokh  18h00 Germanier  18h00-20h30 GmbH  19h00 Dundas 

mardi 07 mars 2023

10h30 Chanel 

11h00-19h00 Agnès b. 

11h30 Ujoh 

12h30 A.W.A.K.E. Mode 

14h00 Miu Miu

15h30 Y/Project

16h30 Avellano 

17h30-20h00 Mossi 

18h00-21h00 Xuly Bët

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ZANELE MUHOLI / MEP / PARIS

The MEP is proud to present the first retrospective in France dedicated to Zanele Muholi, the internationally renowned South African photographer and activist whose work documents and celebrates the Black LGBTQIA+ (lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender, queer, intersex, asexual+) community. This major event, which brings together more than 200 photographs and videos created since the early 2000s as well as numerous archival materials, covers the full breadth of Muholi’s career to date, honouring one of the most acclaimed artists working today.

Zanele Muholi was born in 1972 in Umlazi, in Durban township, SouthAfrica, and lives between Durban and Cape Town. Muholi studied at theMarket Photo Workshop in Johannesburg and Ryerson University in Toronto.Co-founder of the Forum for the Empowerment of Women and founder ofInkanyiso, a forum for queer and visual media, the artist is also an honoraryprofessor at the University of the Arts Bremen, Germany.Their work has featured in numerous solo exhibitions worldwide, includingthose at the Goethe-Institut Johannesburg (2012); the Brooklyn Museum,New York (2015); the Stedelijk Museum, Amsterdam (2017); Autograph ABP,London (2017) and the Museo de Arte Moderno in Buenos Aires (2018). Thisretrospective has been shown at Tate Modern, London; Gropius Bau in Berlin;the Bildmuseet at the University of Umea;the Valencian Institute of ModernArt andthe Kunstmuseum Luzern.Muholi has also won numerous awards, including the Lucie HumanitarianAward (2019); the Photography Book award from the Kraszna-KrauszFoundation forSomnyama Ngonyama: Hail, the Dark Lioness(Aperture); theRees Visionary Award from Amref Health Africa (2019); a fellowship from theRoyal Photographic Society, UK (2018); France’s Chevalier de l’Ordre desArts et des Lettres (2017); and the Mbokodo Award in the visual arts category(2017).The artist has also received the ICP Infinity Award for Documentary andPhotojournalism (2016); the Fine Prize for an emerging artist at the CarnegieInternational (2013); a Prince Claus Award (2013); the Casa África award; and the Fondation Blachère award at Les Rencontres africaines de la photographiein Bamako (2009). The series “Somnyama Ngonyama” was presented at the58thVenice Biennale (2019). “Faces and Phases” was shown at Documenta(13) in Kassel (2012) as well as the 55thVenice Biennale (2013), and wasshortlisted for the Deutsche Börse Photography Prize (2015).

Zanele Muholi, who defines themself* as a “visual activist”, uses the camera as a tool to confront and repair injustice. During the 1990s, South Africa underwent significant social and political change. Democracy was established in 1994 with the abolition of apartheid; this was followed by a new constitution in 1996, the first in the world to outlaw discrimination based on sexual orientation. Despite this progress, the Black LGBTQIA+ community remains the target of violence and prejudice to this day.

Muholi is deeply involved in this community, and their photographic work is inseparable from their life and their activism. Telling stories that are both individual and collective, the artist hopes to give visibility to their community while challenging conventional stereotypes and representations. Bringing to light the uniqueness and diversity of the individuals they picture, Muholi emphasizes their courage and dignity in the face of intolerance and discrimination.

These photographs encourage viewers to address their own misconceptions. Together they create a new lexicon of positive imagery for under- and misrepresented communities, promoting mutual understanding and respect.

#photography

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RICK OWENS / SUBHUMAN INHUMAN  SUPERHUMAN

THE TRIENNALE DI MILANO PRESENTS RICK OWENS. SUBHUMAN INHUMAN SUPERHUMAN, THE FIRST RETROSPECTIVE ENTIRELY DEDICATED TO THE VISIONARY FASHION AND FURNITURE DESIGNER RICK OWENS, AS SUGGESTED AND PRESENTED BY THE CURATOR OF THE FASHION DEPARTMENT AT TRIENNALE DI MILANO, ELEONORA FIORANI.

FOR THIS EXHIBITION OWENS IS THE AUTHOR OF HIS OWN NARRATIVE, CURATING GARMENTS, ACCESSORIES, FURNITURE, GRAPHICS AND PUBLICATIONS THAT HE HAS SELECTED FROM OVER TWENTY YEARS OF HIS CAREER.

INSPIRED BY THE EXAMPLE OF ARTISTS AND LITERATURE, OWENS HAS ALWAYS WORKED TO PROMOTE AND HIGHLIGHT MOMENTS OF BEAUTY THAT MIGHT OTHERWISE BE OVERLOOKED. KEY TO THIS RETROSPECTIVE IS A SCULPTURAL INSTALLATION, A PIECE WHICH RUNS THROUGHOUT THE SHOW. TAKING THE FORM OF A GIANT EARTHWORK COMPOSED OF CONCRETE, LILIES, ADRIATIC SAND AND HIS OWN HAIR, THE SCULPTURE SERVES AS A METAPHOR OF THE ETERNAL, PRIMAL CREATIVE DRIVE THAT PUSHES HUMANITY FORWARD FOR BETTER OR WORSE.

“I WANTED TO TAKE WHAT A DISMISSIVE WORLD MIGHT MOCK AND CREATE SOMETHING FINE, EMPATHETIC, KIND AND INCLUSIVE.” “IF I COULD EVER SO SLIGHTLY BLUR THE RIGID PARAMETERS OF WHAT IS CONSIDERED BEAUTIFUL OR ACCEPTABLE IN OUR GENERATION, I WILL HAVE FULFILLED ANY POTENTIAL I HAD TO MAKE ANY POSITIVE CONTRIBUTION TO THIS WORLD.”

RICK OWENS. SUBHUMAN INHUMAN SUPERHUMAN ALSO PRESENTS A LIMITED-EDITION BOX PRODUCED BY ELECTA. THE BOX IS COMPOSED OF SEPARATE BOOKS OF TEXT, COLLABORATIONS WITH PHOTOGRAPHERS, OBJECTS AND HIS OWN UNRELEASED PERFUME CONTAINING CIVET AND AMBERGRIS.

BORN IN PORTERVILLE IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA, RICK OWENS LAUNCHED HIS EPONYMOUS LINE IN 1994. HIS FIRST RUNWAY SHOW IN NEW YORK WAS UNDERWRITTEN BY ANNA WINTOUR AND VOGUE USA. IN 2003, OWENS MOVED TO PARIS, WHICH HAS SINCE BEEN THE CENTRE OF HIS OPERATIONS. IN JULY 2005, OWENS INTRODUCED A FURNITURE COLLECTION FEATURING RAW PLYWOOD, MARBLE AND MOOSE ANTLERS, WHICH HAS BEEN EXHIBITED AT THE MUSÉE D’ART MODERNE IN PARIS AND THE MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART, LOS ANGELES.

A RECIPIENT OF THE 2002 PERRY ELLIS AWARD FOR EMERGING TALENT AND THE LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD BY THE COUNCIL OF FASHION DESIGNERS OF AMERICA IN 2017, RICK OWENS WAS ALSO AWARDED THE COOPER-HEWITT DESIGN AWARD FOR FASHION DESIGN, AS WELL AS THE FASHION GROUP INTERNATIONAL RULE BREAKER AWARD IN 2007.

“The clothes I make are my autobiography. They are the calm elegance I want to get to and the damage I’ve done on the way. They are an expression of tenderness and raging ego. They are an adolescent idealization and its inevitable defeat.” Rick Owens

⏤

JEAN-PAUL PARADINHA

#FASHION #editor's picks

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AITOR ORTIZ

Aitor Ortiz,  born  in  Bilbao  in  1971,  is  one  of  the  best  known  Spanish  photographers.  He  has  already  held  group and solo exhibitions in numerous big museums in Europe, Asia and America. The largest solo exhibitions include: Museo Guggenheim, Bilbao (2011), Fotogra ska Stockholm (2012), Sala Canal de Isabel II, Madrid (2012). The book » Aitor Ortiz « published by Hatje Cantz in 2011, is an important monograph about his work, for which he has been celebrated  by  critics  and  awarded  numerous  prizes.  His  works  have  been  included  in  many  different  collections, including:  Museo  Nacional  Centro  de  Arte  Reina  Sofía,  Madrid,  Museo  Guggenheim  Bilbao,  Fundación  La  Caixa, AxA. Belgium, IVAM. Instituto Valenciano de Arte Moderno, Norman Foster Collection and many more.

Beyond the documental photography of architecture, and asserting the dilution factor and transmutation of reality that is associated with photographic representation, Aitor Ortiz works with space, architecture and objects as opening elements to  introduce  a  number  of  visual  and  cognitive  unknowns.  His  interest  persistently  raises  a  series  of  dilemmas  between representation  and  interpretation  (perception)  while  establishing  a  relationship  between  the  content  of  his  images,  the physical properties of the materials on which he reproduces his works and their physical position in an exhibition. That’s why Aitor Ortiz is trying to establish a broad spectrum of work process and a relationships between photographed places, the  conscious  and  unconscious  mechanisms  involved  in  the  process  of  image  manipulation:  »the  eye«  (interpretation, frame,  contextualisation ... ),  »the  camera«  (focus / blur,  optical  distortion,  motion  transmission ... ),  and  »the  brain«  (the limitations of an imperfect device in the interpretation of data and empirical skills: experience, association of concepts ... ) that culminate in the exhibition space; where physical experience again transcends the content of his photographs as part of a process of constant interaction between their representation and the viewer's perception.

#photography

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IN INTIMACY WITH CHAD MOORE

Chad Moore (1987, Tampa, Florida), currently lives and works in New York City. A world away from obsessive Instagramming and posed party pictures, photographer Chad Moore’s images are joyful, unselfconscious snapshots of friendship, love and youth at their best. Moore captures his friends scaling billboards, sneaking into swimming pools, going on road trips and undertaking random group activities (like showering) while naked, in shots by turns exuberant, mischievous and sweetly romantic.

Moore escaped Tampa Bay, Florida (leaving behind the remains of a half- completed business degree), via an insurance windfall from a car accident involving illegal Mexican immigrants, and came to New York to work for legendary photographer Ryan McGinley. 

Although there are hints of McGinley’s colour- saturated paeans to youth in his work, the 25- year-old Moore documents a different generation of downtown New Yorkers, bringing a sincerity and innocent playfulness to his work that is completely his own. Here, Moore explains the story behind one of his favourite photographs, a picture of two old flames reunited for one night.

#photography

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DÉFILÉS FASHION WEEK FEMME / PARIS / Printemps/Été 2020

Lundi 23 septembre 2019

18:00 MAME KUROGOUCHI 19:00 KIMHEKIM  20:00 ROKH

Mardi 24 septembre 2019

10:30 MARINE SERRE  11:30 AFTERHOMEWORK  12:30 VICTORIA/TOMAS  13:30 OTTOLINGER  14:30 DIOR  16:00 DAWEI  17:00 ANREALAGE 18:00 KOCHÉ  20:30 SAINT LAURENT

Mercredi 25 septembre 2019

09:30 LANVIN  11:00 MUGLER  12:00 MAISON MARGIELA    15:00 DRIES VAN NOTEN  16:00 GUY LAROCHE  17:00 ROCHAS  18:00 LEMAIRE  19:00 COURREGES

Jeudi 26 septembre 2019

10:00 CHLOE  11:00 ATLEIN    12:00 MANISH ARORA  13:00 UMA WANG 14:00 PACO RABANNE    15:00 Y/PROJECT  16:30 ANN DEMEULEMEESTER  18:00 RICK OWENS  19:00 OFF-WHITE 20:00 ISABEL MARANT

Vendredi 27 septembre 2019

09:30 LOEWE  10:30 LEONARD PARIS  11:30 BALMAIN  12:30 ISSEY MIYAKE  13:30 CHRISTIAN WIJNANTS 14:30 NINA RICCI  16:00 OLIVIER THEYSKENS 17:00 ANDREW GN  18:00 LUTZ HUELLE    19:00 YOHJI YAMAMOTO    20:30 CELINE

Samedi 28 septembre 2019

09:30 JUNYA WATANABE 10:30 HAIDER ACKERMANN  11:30 RAHUL MISHRA 13:00 ALTUZARRA 14:00 VIVIENNE WESTWOOD 15:00 ELIE SAAB  16:00 CEDRIC CHARLIER 17:00 COMME DES GARÇONS 19:00 YANG LI  20:00 HERMÈS

Dimanche 29 septembre 2019

11:30 BALENCIAGA  13:00 ANAIS JOURDEN    14:00 THOM BROWNE    16:00 AKRIS   17:00 VALENTINO  18:00 EACH X OTHER 19:00 MASHAMA 20:30 GIVENCHY

Lundi 30 septembre 2019

10:00 STELLA MCCARTNEY  11:00 SACAI  12:00 ANTON BELINSKIY  13:30 GIAMBATTISTA VALLI  14:30 AGNÈS B  15:30 BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE 16:30 A.P.C. 18:00 SHIATZYCHEN    20:00 ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

Mardi 01 octobre 2019

10:30 CHANEL  12:00 KWAIDAN EDITIONS  13:30 JARELZHANG  14:30 MIU MIU  15:30 JUNKO SHIMADA  16:30 LACOSTE  19:30 LOUIS VUITTON

#FASHION

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PARIS FASHION WEEK / EVENTS / SPRING-SUMMER 2020

ZIMMERMAN Cocktail Ouverture Boutique 23/09/2019 jusqu'à 20h30 Apicius 20 rue d'Artois 75008 Paris

VIRGIL ABLOH Exposition "Effloressence" - Cocktail 24/09/2019 jusqu'à 21h00 Galerie Kréo 31 rue Dauphine 75006 Paris

KARL LAGERFELD Exposition - Cocktail par Carine Roitfeld 25/09/2019 jusqu'à 21h00 21 rue Saint Guillaume 75007 Paris

LANCEL Soirée - Lancement nouvelle identité 25/09/2019 jusqu'à 21h30 8 place de l'Opéra 75009 Paris

ZADIG & VOLTAIRE Aftershow 25/09/2019 20:30 > 23:59 Hôtel Ritz 15 place Vendome 75001 Paris

ANDAM Diner 25/09/2019 20:30 > 23:00 Ministére de la Culture 3 rue de Valois 75001 Paris

ATELIER COLOGNE 10th Anniversary Cocktail  25/09/2019 19:30 ARTCURIAL 7 rond-Point des Champs-Elysées 75008 Paris

FABIEN BARON Diner 26/09/2019 21:00 > 23:00 Ecole Nationale des Beaux Arts 14 rue Bonaparte 75006 Paris

DUNDAS X RTA Party 26/09/2019 22:00 > 05:00 Hotel Bourbon 39 rue des petites écuries 75010 Paris

ASSOCIATION AZZEDINE ALAÏA Lancement du livre Le Bouquin de la Mode 26/09/2019 19:00 > 22:00 18 rue de la Verrerie 75004 Paris

MAZARINE DJ SET & Drinks 26/09/2019 jusqu'à 02h00 Serpent à plume 24 place des Vosges 75003 Paris

KARL LAGERFELD X L'OREAL Cocktail 27/09/2019 19:30 > 22:00 3 rue mazarine 75006 Paris

BYREDO X CRAIG MCDEAN Book signing 27/09/2019 jusqu'à 20h00 Boutique Byredo 199 rue Saint Honoré 75001 Paris

BOTTEGA VENATA Cocktail 27/09/2019 jusqu'à 20h00 Galerie Lafayette - Champs Elysées 60 avenue des champs Elysées 75008 Paris

RALPH LAUREN X VANITY FAIR Cocktail + Party 28/09/2019 19:00 > 23:59 Boutique Ralph Lauren 173 boulevard Saint Germain 75006 Paris

AU DEPART Cocktail - Sebastopol DJ SET 28/09/2019 jusqu'à 23h00 352 rue Saint Honoré 75001 Paris

WOOLMARK MODERN MERINO Cocktail 30/09/2019 jusqu'à 21h30 Résidence de l'Ambassadeur Australien 4, rue Jean Rey 75015 Paris

SUPIMA DESIGN LAB Cocktail 01/10/2019 19:00 Hôtel de Talleyrand 2 rue Saint Florentin 75001 Paris

HOLIDAY Lancement magazine Holiday 01/10/2019 20:00 > 23:59 Holiday Boileau 11 rue parent de Rosan 75016 Paris

#FASHION

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“TERRAIN OF LIGHT”: PRADA MEN’S AND WOMEN’S AUTUMN/WINTER 2019

For the 2019 Fall/Winter Prada Men’s and Women’s show, AMO has created a theatrical field of lights in the grand hall of the Deposito, the multifunctional venue for performances that is part of the Fondazione Prada complex.

Spectators are seated along the perimeter of the room, occupying several architectural devices – a terrace, newly built stages and a balcony – that give shape to the show space and surround a rectangular void in the center. A platform stippled by a regular grid of light bulbs, balancing between a performative landscape and bygone scientific experiments by Nikola Tesla, shimmers in the darkness of the room.

The models walk, distanced from the crowd, through an artificial terrain made of dimly lit glass and soft spiky foam; evoking a mysterious and uncanny atmosphere, reminiscent of a scene from a science fiction movie. A series of dramatic spotlights enhance the spectacle adding an intimate dimension to the performance, which contrasts with the vastness and industrial character of the Deposito.

#FASHION

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EAMES RADIO BY VITRA

Eames Radio, Charles & Ray Eames (1946) 

After developing a successful method for moulding plywood in the early 1940s, Charles and Ray Eames employed the acquired know-how to create a wide range of products – including radio cabinets. By 1952, roughly 200,000 radios designed by the Eameses had been sold by various manufacturers. 

One design, however, never went into production: an elegant table radio with a moulded plywood case, whose compact shape and austere, more technical look were unusual for the time. Conceived in 1946, the radio was rejected by the designated manufacturer, who wanted a 'normal design'. Charles and Ray sent photographs of the prototype to the magazine 'Interiors'; matchbooks were included in the pictures as a scale reference. Their aim was to increase the acceptance of smaller, more modern devices. However, this goal proved elusive, and the production of Eames radios was discontinued in the early 1950s. 

More than 70 years later, Vitra has joined the Eames Office to revive the design of this compact radio, which was a favourite of Charles and Ray. Encased in an elegant walnut cabinet and equipped with up-to-date technology by the British manufacturer REVO, the Eames Radio today bears witness to the designer couple's unwavering belief in progress. 

The Eames Radio is available in a limited edition of 999 units. 

Furniture by Charles and Ray Eames has been a cornerstone of the Vitra Design Museum collection since its inception. A major part of the objects in the couple's estate was received in 1988. After presenting the exhibition 'The Work of Charles and Ray Eames' in 1997/98, the Vitra Design Museum is now holding a comprehensive retrospective of the couple's lifework in 2017/18 entitled 'An Eames Celebration', divided into four parallel exhibitions on the Vitra Campus in Weil am Rhein. To mark the occasion, the Vitra Design Museum has published the 'Eames Furniture Sourcebook' and 'Essential Eames: Words & Pictures'.

https://www.vitra.com/

#DESIGN #LIFESTYLE