jo-shaneflorence18

[jo-shaneflorence18]

All roads lead to Rome

12/05/2018: The day started the day with Jo going with Cecilia to post a couple of boxes back to Tamworth. All the excess stuff she had accumulated since arriving. The six or seven bags equated to a couple of hundred euro and plenty of paperwork. While this was going on Shane sorted out the rubbish so he and then boys only needed one trip to the street to get rid of it. With the final packing complete, Jo and Cec headed to the bakery to get some breakfast morsels, focaccia and coffee. Breakfast complete, we were sitting around waiting for old mate Manuel to return our three hundred euro deposit so we could go. He turned up at eleven so we were on the street at ten past looking for a couple of taxis. The side street gave us no luck, every taxi that went past was full. We moved to the end of the Piazza della Signoria for some better luck and didn't have to wait long before one dropped someone off at one of the apartments near the Gucci Museum. We grabbed that one & he phoned for another. Soon we were all at Santa Maria Novella Station and raring to go.

Patiently waiting for Manuel to return our money

We had over an hour to kill so we dragged the bags down the footpath to outside Macdonald's for some burgers Royale. Not unexpectedly, the disappointment of eating their food rivalled home.  Platform 11 soon gave the notice that Frecciarossa 9419 would soon be pulling in. As expected, we were in carriage 2 and it was at the other end of the train so it was a decent walk down the platform before we could board. When we did, Tom & Beau managed to get all the heavy bags into one rack which would make disembarking easier. It wasn't long before we were cruising at nearly 250kph towards Rome.

Frecciarossa 9419

Comfort all of the way

The trip was effortless. One hour and thirty two minutes to do the two hundred and sixty odd kilometres between the two cities, including a stop on Rome's outskirts.  Once we arrived we were immediately met by a gentleman who escorted us to his Lancia people mover and dropped us off to the front steps of the apartment. Alfredo, our host, organised him for €75. From there Cecilia, Alfredo's sister and our other host, met us on the footpath and escorted us upstairs. The first thing Cecilia said upon meeting us was to apologise for forgetting the football tickets. The game was on tomorrow night and she had left them in her flat. She had a sick cat or something and had been distracted the last a few days. Tomorrow morning she would slide them under our door.

Trying to fit all the bags in was the biggest dilemma of the day

The apartment was fantastic, two large bedrooms with large beds, one for Cecilia and one for us and a third bedroom with two single beds for the boys. Situated on the Equilinus, one of the seven hills of Rome, every room in the house, excellent. Cec's had a magnificent view of the Coliseum, only one hundred metres away.  Before leaving Cecilia gave us a brief history of the house starting with a picture of the Coliseum on the wall dated 1860. This picture had Constantine's Arch and our building in it but not much else. She mentioned that her grandparents had lived in the apartment since the fifties.

With a reassurance that our football tickets would be under the door the next morning, she left.

View from the apartment

With Cecilia the Italian gone, but Cecilia the Aussie still around, we went out for a look around, starting of course with the Coliseum. We walked down to the bottom road, across in to the crowd within Piazza del Colosseo and towards Constantine's Arch and were immediately set upon by Bangladeshis and Africans. The Bangladeshis selling selfie sticks and backup phone batteries and the Africans just shaking your hand, offering an elephant or wristband and probably expecting something, the conversation didn't get too far but one asked Tom for some money for his children. Both the Africans and Bangladeshis sold water.

After a quick look around and discussion about what to do, we headed down via dei Fori Imperiali toward Trajan's Column where we would regroup and look for a feed.

At least these guys were entertaining

Strolling through the crowd had us continually stopping to look at the historic ruins in amazement. The Forum Romanum on the left and then before the end, across the road to the statue of Augustus Caesar and then to the much later Trajan's Forum on the right. The information boards gave us a good understanding of what went on but by the time we got to Trajan's Column we were all parched and had had a gut full of the Bangladeshis and Africans. They were everywhere and relentless. To the point of us having to be rude and just ignoring them, particularly the African who wanted to shake everyone's hand, ask where you are from and then praise you and your country.

Don't know who this dude is

Once we shook them off we headed up a small street lined with several options for lunch. We felt a little insecure as we walked up the narrow footpath of Quattro Novembre. Cars and buses continually passing at speed and within only a few feet. But that is Rome. Our first stop was Ristorante - Pizzeria da Titta & Caio, menu spread right across the front of the building. It looked okay but we may have been able to do better. The next joint, Bistrot Cibus Sandwich and Hamburger Bar just up the street was a bit ritzy so we back peddled to the first option, dining on pizzas, schnitzel, scampi and ravioli. One of our most disappointing meals yet.

Tuck in Beau. It can only get better

After we paid, we headed back to the apartment but not before walking through a protest by Palestinians an against their good friends, Israel. The whole affair took up the time of heaps of police and soldiers and blocked off via dei Fori Imperiali to traffic. This allowed us to walk the rest of the way back without worrying about getting run over.

A bit of rowdiness for the afternoon

Just before getting back Jo and Cec decided they were tired and needed a rest. Not before getting Shane to go and find the supermarket for some wine and supplies. Upon returning with the goodies it turned out that they both ended up at La Biga Ristoracaffé below the apartment for cocktails. Shane then joined them followed by Beau, all of the time bothered by the Bangladeshis and Africans pulling their stunts. One thing was handy though, one of them was selling roses, two for six euro. After checking the date in Australia he bought Jo and Cec a rose. After all, it was Mothers' Day back home. This would be the first of many visits there.  Tom was all plumb tuckered out and spent an early evening in bed.

Happy Mother's Day

The rest of the night was spent arguing over Trivial Pursuit.

First night in Rome

Tomorrow is free so who knows.

[jo-shaneflorence18]

Accademia & Uffizi

11/05/2018: The day began like all the others, a bit of a sleep in. We ended up tieing it on last night so were a bit sheepish first up. First thing first for Jo, she had to go back to the TIM phone shop as all her phone service both calls and data were gone. She left early so as to beat the queue. The rest of us got ready. Jo was gone for about half an hour and returned with no result. She needed her phone number to be able to be given help and she left the card with the number on it at the apartment. We then headed off to the Accademia for the first part of our art gallery day. Firstly to see Michelangelo's David and then after lunch a couple of hours at the Uffizi.

Another morning in Piazza della Signoria

The Galleria dell'Accademia was located in Via Ricasoli, a small street that by the time we got there was chock-a-block with people. After some initial confusion we found our guide Marta who rallied everyone together and put us on the end of the skip the line queue. Today was particularly busy and for some reason the line to get in didn't move too fast. We must have been in the line for half an hour before we hit the security screens to finally get in.

Entry queue to Galleria dell'Accademia

Old gypsy begging for some coin

The  tour was different to last time although probably expected. After entering we were taken straight to the Statue of David where she chatted on for a while and then done an about face to Michelangelo's prisoners. So named as the way he carved his pieces, it looked as though the subjects were escaping from the marble. Michelangelo started on one face only and worked his way through. As if someone was getting out of water they would suddenly appear as the water fell away. The four prisoners were so named as they were incomplete and as such prisoners of the stone. This gave us a good insight into the different stages of carving,  and the chisels used as different surfaces were of varying coarseness.

David

Prigione detto Schiavo barbuto

Palestrina Pietà. Once attributed to Michelangelo but they're now having second thoughts

After the prisoners, we parted but were recommended to visit the musical instruments before we left the museum. These were quite fascinating and obviously quite old. Some of the pianofortes and other stuff was unusual to say the least. The set of Stradivari's violins, violas and cellos were beautiful. A standout was the partial collection of the original 1690 Medici quintet consisting of two violins, two violas and a cello of which a tenor viola, the cello and a 1716 replacement of one of the original violins are on display.

Tenor viola and violoncello of the "Medici" Quintet, 1690

More from Stradivarii

Although somewhat awestruck by the display so far, we were far from finished. Grand Prince Ferdinando de' Medici lasted less than fifty years but in that time both he and his father, Cosimo III de’ Medici, amassed one of the most extraordinary collections of musical instruments in Europe, of which we all benefit from today (although most of their stuff went missing). They also had a part in the invention of the first pianoforte so designed by Bartolomeo Cristofori who was on their books as the musical instrument maker. Some good stuff here, surrounded by other, equally impressive stringed, wind and percussion instruments.

One of the pianofortes

Trumpet display

Due to the excessive wait at the start of the Accademia, the three hour mid day break between museums was reduced to two. This was fine but any plans to have a long lunch were modified. We had sandwiches and juice at a nearby corner shop before separating. Cecilia back for a quick rest, Jo back to the phone shop with the phone number in hand and the boys off to buy a couple of wallets. Shane tagged along. We were to meet on the street below the apartment just before three. By the time three came and went, we had met all of our goals, all achieved except for Cecilia (could work out the apartment keys), negotiated the detours created by the State of the Unions Summit, the European Parliament's annual get together designed to, put in their own words "Organised by the European University Institute in Florence, the State of the Union conference (10-12 May 2018) is an annual high-level debate on the European Union. The 2018 edition has a special emphasis on Solidarity in Europe, an overarching theme relevant to European economic, monetary and fiscal policies, social investment, strategies of EU defence and security, migration, climate change and energy programmes".

We couldn't get in here so we went in the next door

The next door was a little more civil with a good display of historical photos of Tuscany and the hardships that the locals endured during time's past. Not much time to look around though as we were on a mission and had to find Door 3 at the Uffizi.

Apple picking the old way

Within no time after arrival we had met our guide Marcello, an older gentleman with a great sense of humour. We donned our audio guides once more and stood in the Skip the Line queue again. Our entry this time was a lot quicker. Whether it was by luck or the influence of our guide (he never stopped talking to the museum staff), we seemed to skip ahead of others and were in before we knew it. Marcello was a real character, full of wit and one liners, and paying out on the different nationality tour groups. "We will keep the Germans in front of us. We have had them behind us before and that didn't go so well". He then muscled in on the French tour group so as to get our group a better vantage point and again later on with a Japanese tour group. He quipped that now that the Germans, French and Japanese will be after him so he best use the back door when leaving.

Marcello, strutting his stuff

The Uffizi was set up in rooms and in periods so as we went through the place, different artists and different styles were portrayed starting from the twelve to thirteen hundreds on. Amongst the first hall to visit was Hall 2, Giotto and the 13th Century. This room was home to amongst others, three apparent masterpieces, all showing the influence of Byzantine art, that is that the bodies are two dimensional, highly stylised and have sharp outlines. Or so the signage said. It was then that we followed Marcello from exhibit to exhibit, checking out the artwork and absorbing his entertaining banter.

Spending most of his career in Florence, Giotto di Bondone time was spent focusing almost exclusively on frescoes that later influenced the likes of Michelangelo and Raphael. Maestà, also known as the Madonna di Ognissanti, was painted by Giotto around 1310

Madonna with Child and Two Angels by Filippo Lippi. Later in life he teamed up with Lucrezia Buti, a nun and had a couple of kids. Maybe it's her and the kids in the picture

The Primavera or Allegory of Spring by Botticelli. Whatever it means, Venus looks well and truly up the duff

Laocoön and his Sons by Baccio Bandinelli. Trojan priest Laocoön and his sons Antiphantes and Thymbraeus are being attacked by sea serpents

Doni Tondo (Holy Family) by Michelangelo. Practice run for the Sistine Chapel?

Unfinished Adoration of the Magi by Da Vinci. Recently underwent a five and a half year restoration to get all of the crap of it from years of grime and a couple of bodgie restorations. Leonardo was commissioned by the Augustinian monks of San Donato a Scopeto in Florence but scarpered to Milan for a better gig halfway through

A finished Adoration of the Magi by Botticelli. The Medici's posing (posthumously) as the three wise men

Finishing up at the Uffizi around five thirty, we headed our different directions again. Shane and Jo over the Arno to find packing tape for the boxes to be posted home, the boys to look for leather jackets and Cecilia to the bar beneath our apartment.

San Jacopo sopr'Arno

Inside

This time we all achieved our goals, all joining Cecilia at the Bar Perseo for a drink. Her shout. Cecilia, initially alone was joined by Shane and Jo so a larger table was needed. Then another Aussie heard our accents and spoke up. He ended up at our table as well. Anthony from Perth holidaying on his own at his wife's blessing, visiting the birth region of his parents as well as touring through Italy. He had been a Radio DJ but after a cancer scare, treatment and recovery, he gave up the early rising and took up real estate agent work. Not long after, Tom and Beau turned up. Soon one turned to six and one drink turned to three or four. All the while Vincenzo, our waiter fed us the best snacks to keep us going. Small tasty morsels, olives, pistachios and so on. One hundred and eighty euro later we were heading back to start packing.

Thanks Vincenzo

We left the bar by seven thirty, packed up and playing dominos by ten and to bed after midnight. Tomorrow we get our bond back by eleven, try to get a couple of taxis to Santa Maria Novella, and board the twelve thirty eight fast train to Rome.

[jo-shaneflorence18]

Cinque Terre (or Quattro Terre for us)

10/05/2018: We left before six this morning as we had a lot to do. It was good to get around early as there were none of us around, that is, tourists. The streets were empty save the vacuum trucks brooming off and washing the pavement of any trace of last night's hordes and their disarray.

The dawn clean up. Preparing for another day of onslaught

Macca's for breakfast and a two hour train trip to the five medieval fishing villages of Cinque Terre and our first opportunity for a swim, in clean water that is. After a brisk walk to the station rather than taxis, we caught the eight past seven regional train from Santa Maria Novella to Firenze Campo di Marte for the seven thirty six through train to eventually, Naples. We would get off at La Spezia Centrale, wait for a quarter of an hour and then board a suburban train for the twenty odd minute trip to the most northern of the five towns, Monterosso Al Mare.

Good start to the day

Waiting at Firenze Campo di Marte for the next train to Napoli

Monterosso Station was, as expected, right on the water. It also sat between the new part of town to the west and facing the sea from the thirteenth century old town, situated beyond the rocky headland and facing the safe harbour, albeit separated by the ugly railway overpass that allowed us to get there.

We walked off the platform and were immediately confronted with Rocky the dog, sitting on his blanket with a sign begging for money so he could presumably seek treatment for his ailments, cataracts, cancer and arthrosis. We gave him a glance, descended the stairs to the street below and crossed via Fegina to be welcomed by a beautiful view of the Ligurian Sea. The first time that we had seen it for a few years. Crossing the single lane road was a simple process as with a zebra crossing and not much traffic to contend with, we stepped straight onto the narrow paved viewing platform, bounded on each end by a curved ramp that allowed us to access the sand below.

Rocky the dog

The next twenty minutes were very therapeutic. Once on the beach the small pebbles and coarse grains of sand both massaged and cut into our feet. It felt a little painful but seemed good for the soul, or soles, as we walked. Working our way towards the headland and  the large rock formation that dominated the landscape towards the end, the deck chairs and umbrellas were making an appearance with ropes delineating sections of beach that were being progressively cordoned off. To the east, the beach dude was well on top of setting up. Banana chairs out and umbrellas not far behind. The dude at the other end of the beach was dragging the chain. Maybe it was the same dude and he hadn't got around to it. Maybe not.

The water was clear and turquoise and looked inviting. We were soft though and although to swim was one of our aims for the day, after we dipped our feet into the water, as much as it was enjoyable, it was a bit too fresh. We gave a dip in the Mediterranean Sea a miss and stuck to the shore line, venturing in to our knees as we strolled towards Aurora Tower.

Old mate setting up for the day. Clouds and all

This guy must have had a day off

Lo Scoglio di Monterosso. You need to pay for this beach at times

Not far beyond Lo Scoglio di Monterosso there was a bit more sand but it quickly turned to boulders that formed the point where Aurora Tower stood. We back tracked a bit and found the roadway above. We had walked as far as possible and had only done so due to the time of year. In peak season the beach is blocked off, umbrellas and beach lounges erected and change rooms and lock ups made available. All at a cost. Twenty five to thirty euros for the day. More if you want the front row.

The tower was built by the Genovese during the fifteen hundreds, forming part of a defensive cordon to ward off pirates. Once located at the edge of town, the tower and the castle ruins delineate the old town of Monterosso and the Fegina. At the foot of the tower, the road entered a tunnel cut through the rock while the pedestrian path kept to the coast, allowing people to enjoy the view. Jo and Cec took the tunnel, the gents took the path.

Looking towards the tunnel to Monterosso Vecchio. Aurora Tower in the background

Another private beach around the point at Monterosso Vecchio. ���25 a day

Meeting at the tunnels end, we wandered down what was still via Fegina, under the railway and into a small but interesting market selling homewares more than anything. Handy stuff for the kitchen. Coffee pots, saucepans, utensils and the like. Nothing there for us but. We were looking for a rest and a drink which we found along with the many souvenir shops that lined the caruggi. A quick look around and off to the ferry wharf.

A rest for the nanas, Facebook time

We knew which boat that we wanted and it had pulled in but with still a distance to cover before we were actually there, some urgency was required as we had yet to purchase tickets. The queue at the ticket seller only increased our anxiety but thinking that we would miss out was in the end unfounded as there were plenty queueing to get on after those on board disembarked. It ended up being a descent wait rather than running late. By eleven thirty we had boarded the ferry to Vernazza and were on our way.

Goodbye Monterosso

Hello Vernazza

As we approached Vernazza, we were greeted by the best view available. Clusters of houses clutching the cliffs, the fourteenth century church on the harbour and the town's defences including the castle and two watch towers, built hundreds of years earlier, all in perspective. The seas were a little rough but disembarking the ferry was a safe and simple process. Under the gaze of Castello Doria and its Belforte Tower, we braved the gang plank and moved around the concrete break water that protected the harbour. A lovely sight, people soaking up the sun when the opportunity arose, fishermen tending to their boats and many hundreds of tourists moving back and forth from the breakwater to the main street. All to a backdrop of Ligurian houses painted hues of rosé and saffron fornenting the timeworn Chiesa di Santa Margherita di Antiochia, and all alee the rich green of the hills behind.

Old mate tieing up his boat. Chiesa di Santa Margherita di Antiochia to the left, via Visconti ahead

We were only here for a while though, a quick look around. It was after mid day and time for a feed. A lap of via Visconti and via Roma allowed us to make a call. Back to near the harbour, to a corner restaurant that we had frequented with the kids last time we were there, Pizzeria Lercari Ercole. It drew our attention with the pizza oven near the front window where could watch the cook place pizzas and bread into the wood fired oven.  Initially we sat under the umbrellas at the front but were offered seating at the rear of the premises after speaking to the waitress. A lot more secluded. We were initially the only ones out there but it soon changed and before long the small courtyard was full. Good ploy to keep the tables out front empty so passers by got the impression that there was plenty of room. This was a good meal, good pasta for some but more importantly, some delicious mussels for Beau. He did enjoy them as well as the Birra Moretti.

Looking for a feed. The cave leading to Vernazza Beach was cordoned off

Mussels for lunch, good choice

Soon after lunch the move to the next town was on. Heading up to the train station and too lazy to climb the paths to Corniglia, the next stop would be Manarola Station. There was a considerable crowd, on the train and on the platforms. So much so that when we arrived at Manarola Station, it took a long time to get to the tunnel entrance that linked the platforms to the town. Just as many people were trying to access the platforms from the tunnel as were trying to access the tunnel from the platforms. The stairs under the tracks travelling south were a particular pinch point, causing gridlock. Upon exiting the tunnel we headed down hill, up the ramp that took us past a small square full of kids playing football, down the ramp on the other side and into via Renato Birolli to the water. After surveying the shore from the platform above the water, we walked up the path towards the scenic viewpoint on the northern headland and overlooked the rocky outcrops that partially protected the town from the sea and sunbaking area and launch pad for those game enough to jump in for a swim. Given the number of boats in the streets and along the rocky cliffs above the shoreline, one would be forgiven for thinking that Manarola was a fishing village, similar to those we just visited. Most of the boats were for show though. Manarola is traditionally an olive growing and wine producing area.

Swimmers and others relaxing in the sun

Extending our walk around to see if the Lovers Walk was open, as it was closed several years earlier due to landslides, we were disappointed to find that it was still closed and the track in disrepair. On our return we scaled the steep steps that led us to the picnic area above Nessun Dorma restaurant and another set to Cimitero di Manarola, returning back down to Cec and eventually the shops at the tunnel entrance. This is where we left her again to walk up the hill to the church.

Looking back at Manarola across the top of the sun shades at the restaurant

With Cecilia doing her own thing, the rest of us commenced the ten minute walk up the via Antonio Discovolo incline to an area that Jo had visited by herself last time we were there and recommended the view from above. The road followed the creek closely all the way until the last steep climb to the right, where the road passed over. This was the introduction to a small open area bounded by a church and bell tower on opposite sides. Piazzale Papa Innocenzo IV was dedicated to the Pope, a local character called Sinibaldo Fieschi who lived from 1195 until 1254 and was pope from 1243 until his death from pleurisy whilst still in office. The locals may have been clutching at straws a bit as records were not the best so he could have been born during any number of years and in several places. Good story though. To our right was the view back down the valley and over the township, dominated by a large bell tower which at some stage doubled as a watch tower when the town was under threat from Saracen pirate raids.

POPE INNOCENT IV SQUARE

A TRADITION THAT WAS BORN

IN MANAROLA IN THE ROLANDA HOUSE

To our left was Chiesa di San Lorenzo, built in the thirteen hundreds after a bit of a population boom due to increased activity in the area. Apart from the impressive rose window above the front door, the church had a triptych hanging on the back wall from a similar period.

Looking inside Chiesa di San Lorenzo with the triptych representing Madonna with the Child and Saints at the back of the alter

The hills above Chiesa di San Lorenzo full of day trippers with energy to burn

Our next step was to leave the town and head to our final destination, Riomaggiore. We were going by ferry again so needed to get back down to the bottom of the town and manoeuvre the steps and pathway which led us along the waterfront, past the marble breakwater, through the slit in the granite cliff and to the boarding area. Having not referred to a timetable, we were there with plenty of time to spare and mostly alone. The weather was still fickle with sunscreen being applied by passers by when we arrived to showers by the time the ferry had arrived. It was just after three and a half an hour wait was ahead of us.

Sunscreen one minute, umbrellas the next

In transit to Riomaggiore

By four we were on land again and the sun was out. Just around the rocks from Spiagga del Paese, we climbed the stair and battled the crowds as we made our way towards the main street. Riomaggiore may have been the last to visit but it was certainly the most dramatic. Looking like it hadn't been touched for years, the steepness of the streetscape and height of buildings certainly cast a shadow over the narrow and congested main street. This town had a small harbour that was user friendly when compared with Manarola shown by the number of boats in the street and the fact that some could be hired.

The town's steep streetscape. An impressive welcoming view

It was getting on in the day and we had had enough. Wandering up via Columbo and looking for a sit down, we came across Costeve', a restaurant serving pretty well everything, including wine. Some had a drink, some didn't but before too long we were looking in the shops and working our way to the station to prepare for the train journey back to Florence. Paying particular attention to the correct platform. We needed to travel towards Pisa, not Genoa.

Too much action for one day

A couple of hours on the train allowed us to recharge our batteries before the walk from Santa Maria Novella back to the apartment. From there it was a midnight game of Trivial Pursuit and bed.

Not too many arguments tonight. It was too late

Tomorrow the Accademia & Uffizi.

[jo-shaneflorence18]

Each to their own

9/05/2018: Nothing to do today but to look around and take it easy. Cecilia done her thing, the boys done theirs and we done ours. As usual we just walk the streets and see what happens. Another easy morning got us raring to go after lunch. A walk around the piazza, admiring the statues in the loggia and surrounds is never tiring. Rape of the Sabines, excellent, Perseus with the head of Medusa, equally as impressive, and the old original lions guarding the place. Both once part of the Medici collection, one Roman from the third century and the other, a sixteenth century pendant. It was unfortunate that the Fontana del Nettuno and the mounted Monument of Cosimo I were under scaffold and not able to be admired. We done the next best thing though, we went into the Town Hall foyer and looked at the lions there.

The Town Hall Lions

Although we had no plans for the day, a couple of missions had to be accomplished. First was to buy some balsamic vinegars and some oils from the shop that Jo had been in a couple of days earlier and the second, to buy the train tickets to Rome as we are to leave in a few days. Our plans for the afternoon would be to ensure that we end up at Santa Maria Novella at some point. Firstly though, we needed to find La Bottega Dell'olio and get the job done. They told her that they would package them up and send them home so having some sort of idea where it was, we headed straight down via Porta Rossa, looking around. By the time we worked out that we had taken the wrong street we were in Piazza Santa Trinita.

Colonna della Giustizia or the Column of Justice. It originated from the ruins of the Baths of Caracalla in Rome, gifted to Cosimo I de Medici from Pope Pius IV.  The porphyry statue at the top was an afterthought, designed to suit the occasion.

Back tracking and knowing where we were going, we took Borgo Santi Apostoli and found that we hadn't been too far off track all along. A couple of Florentine streets to be exact. Within minutes we were opening the door of La Bottega Dell'olio and looking around at the excellent product that the owner stocked. We left quite a few euro down but still happy with what we bought.

La Bottega Del Chianti. Little boutique shop we came across on our journey. Sells all sorts of gourmet stuff and is highly regarded

We were next door to a very old church that goes back originally to the eleventh century. What we didn't know at the time was that Santi Apostoli fronted Piazza del Limbo, once a medieval cemetery where babies and young children that died before baptism were buried. Apparently, any kids that died before baptism couldn't pass through the gates of heaven but ended up in limbo, Piazza del Limbo to be exact. The square also connected Borgo Santi Apostoli to Lungarno degli Acciaiuoli via an alleyway that cut between shops facing the Arno, a short cut effectively to Pont Vecchio.

Santi Apostoli

Having finished the first chore of the day, we set out to complete the other and headed back to Piazza della Signoria and onto the train station. There's always something going on in this place. All of Italy in fact. Everything is so old that much maintenance needs to happen.

Shop - Laboratory secured! The violinist mayor of the rotten lily. He succeeded in destroying, gere Firenze! Construction sites, holes … Roads destroyed, the old town sold off to the cronies of the multinationals! Hundreds of felled trees! Worse than the Nazi bombings! Thoughts of an unhappy local

Sprucing up the Basilica. One mean cherry picker

Braving the roads around Santa Maria Novella, we queued with the other patrons and when called by the ticket seller, duly ordered five Business Class tickets for a princely sum of almost five hundred dollars. Still worth the money for a high speed train in comfort. Both chores done it was time to return to see what everyone else was doing. It was getting on to three so some planning for dinner was needed. To break up the walk we did need a break along the way but otherwise everything went to plan.

Rosso Caffetteria on via dei Panzani (near the train station)

Reuniting with Cecilia, we planned for a meal near where we ate on the first night that we arrived, but next door at Ristorante Pescerosso, followed by a walk around the area again before regrouping. Soon after we separated again.

Bet that's not orange juice

Perseus with the Head of Medusa

By seven the men had left the women to their own volition and headed across the Arno. They were headed to a restaurant that didn't disappoint last time, Caffe Pitti on Piazza de'Pitti. A few St Stefanus seen all wobbling back to the apartment.

Who needs a Rolex when he already has one

Caffe Pitti

The return journey was mildly eventful when they went into a convenience store for some grog and found that the cut off time was fast approaching. When standing in line and waiting to pay, the checkout chick advised us that we would have to pay within one minute or she could not sell us anything. In the mean time an idiot in front had more than he could pay for and was rifling through his stuff for the one euro that he was short. Trying to hurry him on only confused the situation, particularly with us trying to give him the money. Plenty of confusion. After managing to pay, they decided to get a cooler bag to keep the beers cold. "That will be thirty two euro please." We thought she was having a joke but she wasn't. After a few expletives, we gave it back to her and moved on.

Returning across Pont Vecchio

The women in the mean time, having recharged their batteries, had settled in across the other side of Piazza della Signoria and tucking in at Restorante Il Bargello.

Small crowd still at Restorante Il Bargello

Late night supper

In essence, the night was finished off with the men watching the girls eat from a safe distance, all the while finishing off Cecilia's bottle of red. She was well pissed off when she noticed them drinking at the apartment window and well in view.

Time for bed

Tomorrow's an early one. Up before six.

[jo-shaneflorence18]

Under the Tuscan sun (and rain)

8/05/2018: It was an early start today, seven o'clock at Santa Maria Novella Station for a seven thirty departure. As such, there was no time for the usual lethargy before we left the apartment so Jo and Cecilia left early for a head start. Once a street level we power walked, to different intensities, through the urban grid until we reached Piazza Santa Maria Novella and Via degli Avelli which led us straight to the station. By the time we arrived at the taxi rank, there were already people around to greet us. Having alerted them to our presence, we then scooted down to MacDonald's for some quick chew and spew which we finished off back in the queue.

The last time we took this tour the buses were at the bus station immediately adjacent to where we were but due to road works around the car parks, we had quite a walk in front of us before we arrived at the temporary arrangements. Our guides led us around the perimeter of Maria Novella before we were able to board the buses and commence the journey.

A sun bathed Cecilia waiting for departure

The trip was slow. On the trip out we encountered traffic everywhere, bumper to bumper all the way out of Florence. It took quite a while to reach Porta Romana and the old thirteenth century city walls. Patiently we waited, until we reached the top of Via Senese, the long uphill stretch taking us away from the city. Soon enough we were making better time allowing for a nine o'clock arrival at Siena.

Being dropped off on the roadside at Viale Vittorio Veneto meant, as with the last time, our guide would need to shepherd us up past the next set of ancient walls adorned with the Medici coat of arms,  past Stadio Artemio Franchi, home to once Serie A contenders, Robur Siena and into the outskirts of Siena.

We were in Medici territory

At some point we were introduced to another guide, a lady who specialised in the area and with coloured cloth in hand, would spend the next hour or more leading us through, and telling us about her town.

Our first stop was not very far, Piazza Salimbeni, where we stood near the adjacent roadway to get a perspective of what we were about to be told. The story was all about the buildings that embraced the square on three sides. To our left was sixteenth century Palazzo Tantucci, our right, fifteenth century Palazzo Spannocchi and to complete the trifecta, the much older Fondaco of the Salimbeni straight ahead. All now owned by Banca Monte dei Paschi di Siena, supposedly the oldest continually operating bank in the world, dating back to 1472 under the instruction of the Magistracies of the Republic of Siena. The bank began its life as a Monte Pio or pawn agency with the express purpose of aiding the town's underprivileged classes in times of hardship. The Charter of 1624 adopted progressive reforms that linked the Monte more closely to the local economy resulting in the bank's name change to Monte dei Paschi. The Grand Duke of Tuscany granting the bank's depositors a state guarantee backed up by the revenues from the state-owned pasture lands in the Maremma (the Paschi), in southern Tuscany. Interesting story.

Sallustio Bandini, Italian archdeacon, economist, and politician who's donation of his private library to the University of Siena necessitated the formation of the precursor to Biblioteca Comunale degli Intronati, Siena's communal library

The next lesson was the origins of the Palio and Contrade. Siena is historically made up of three districts or trazi, in turn comprised of seventeen contrade of which six belong to Terzo di Camollia to the north (Bruco, Drago, Giraffa, Istrice, Luca and Oca), five to Terzo di San Martino to the south east (Civetta, Leocorno, Montone, Nicchio and Torre) and six to Terzo di Città to the south west (Aquila, Chiocciola, Onda, Pantera, Selva and Tartuca). Each contrada is represented by an animal, mythical creature or symbol and represent areas of where people plied their trades. Two examples of which are Giraffa (Giraffe), from the north-eastern area from the Piazza del Campo whose residents were painters and Lupa (She Wolf), to the north of the piazza. Their residents were traditionally bakers.

The insignia of Contrada Bruco (Caterpillar), pinned to the façade of Palazzo Spannocchi, old mercantile family of Siena.

As history tells it, the contrade supplied soldiers to mercenary forces that were paid to defend Siena from its foes during the middle ages but over the centuries the contrade have taken a more ceremonial involvement, no more so than Il Palio di Siena. The Palio is a bare back horse racing event over four days with origins in the far distant past and is the major Sienese event for the year. Twice a year, the Palio takes place with the horses running several laps around Piazza del Campo. The first race, Palio of Provenzano takes place on the 2nd of July and a few weeks later, on 16th of August, the Palio of the Assumption.  Ten of the seventeen contrade take part with the horses consigned and the jockeys chosen early in the piece. A series of trials ensue over the duration of the event culminating with the main race on the fourth day. The winner takes home the Drappellone and hangs it in the contrada's museum.

Our guide holding up an aerial shot of Piazza del Campo during the Palio

After the rundown on the square, Palazzo Pubblico and the other surrounding buildings, the crowd dissipated to all corners to enjoy the free time that we were allotted. We chose to head west, and conquered the incline known as La Mossa (start and finish line of the Palio) and into Costa rella dei Barbieri, the stretch between the Piazza del Campo and the Duomo, past Battistero di S. Giovanni Battista and eventually into Piazza del Duomo. We then queued to enter Duomo di Siena.

Longish queues at Duomo di Siena

We were now in Selva (Forest) country

The queue was certainly worth the wait and few euro to get in. Apart from the beautiful façade, the inside was magnificent with the white and dark green marble hooped theme of the outside being continued throughout. The floor, covered with red, black and white mosaics certainly made the place stand out as it is easy to be "basilica'd out" in this country and we weren't even at Rome yet. You can only see what you can see. There was apparently plenty of other stuff around but we had to move on as time was pressing.

This mosaic is of the Sienese Wolf (She Wolf of Siena) Surrounded by Symbols of Allied Cities. Legend has it that the twin sons of Remus, Seno and Aschio, fled to Siena  after Romulus murdered their father and had the same fate in mind for them. They took refuge in Tuscany where Seno would found the city of Siena. Aschio founded Asciano. The mosaic dates back to 1360 odd but has been touched up over the centuries

The magnificent ceiling of the Duomo

We made it back to Piazzo del Campo with some time to spare but not much. Time to quickly look around though. Next to our meeting place was the entrance to the loggia of the Palazzo Pubblico, an internal setup of which we only had time for a glance. Certainly worth a look next time. Before long we were heading back to the bus and on our way to lunch.

Bust of Mangiaguadagni? Doesn't seem rotund enough given his reputation. Torre del Mangia was apparently named after the tower's first bellringer or something. Giovanni di Balduccio must have had an appetite as he was supposed to have spent all of his pay on tucker. Hence the name Tower of the Eater

Our next stop, Fattoria Poggio Alloro was about an hour north west of Siena. From there we would head a little further, just across the valley to San Gimignano. Upon arrival we were greeted warmly by the hosts and shown around the complex with a brief description of their history and what they do. From the three brothers who migrated to the area and raise enough money to buy the property almost fifty years ago to describing the wines, organic food and farm animals that are produced by the family today. We were doing the same thing here three years ago and not much had changed. When you're on a good thing, stick to it. Jo reckoned that their toilets were bigger which may reflect its popularity.

After being escorted through the distilling area beneath the restaurant, past the grapes and artichokes, and past the sheds containing the cattle and other creatures, we were seated for lunch. Breads, olive oils, pasta and antipasto a plenty, all accompanied by Poggio Alloro reds and whites. Last time we were here it was an excellent feed and today was no different. After lunch we showed our appreciation, dropped in to the takeaway shop and reboarded the bus that would take us up the hill to a very stormy looking San Gimignano.

Cecilia feeling comfortable

Being shown through the farm

The experience was brief at San Gimignano. Not only due to it being geared up to rip off tourists, but the weather was closing in. We were dropped off in the allotted bus area, a few hundred metres away and well below Porta San Giovanni, the main entrance, having to endure the cold and wind that was put on to welcome us. The rain had been threatening for a while but held off until we could browse the shops and get an idea of the layout of the place. This is where the genders again separated.

San Gimignano town walls

The women stayed around the shops and the lower area of Piazza Della Cisterna where they managed a break at Caffetteria Gelateria dell'Olmo. The men ventured further out and eventually were caught out by the foul weather which called a halt to pretty well everything.

A very wet Via San Matteo with no cover in sight

Back to the bus. Next stop Pisa.

Not everyone had the luxury of umbrellas as we all waited for there to be enough space in the bus station for ours to arrive. There was plenty of sharing going on

It was rest time on the bus as Pisa was a fair way away, about an hour and a half. We left San Gimignano around four and arrived at Park Pietrasantina, the local bus station by five thirty. From there we were told that we would be left to our own devices and escorted to Porte Manin, almost a kilometre away, past the Africans and Bangladeshis selling stuff along Via Cammeo, their tents backing onto the western wall that faced the baptistry. By now it was six and it was here that those who had chosen to, and paid to climb the tower were given their tickets and times. We had to be back at the bus by seven thirty. Shane and Jo had climbed the tower before so it was only Cecilia and the boys to climb at the designated time slot of six thirty. That was until Cec backed out so Shane took the spare ticket. Jo and Cec spent the time around the grounds.

The usual touristy stuff

During the time that the boys were waiting to queue for the tower, Thomas took the time to look for a watch. He promised his boss that he would bring him back a Rolex and would get one for himself as well. Up until now he had been telling the Africans that he wasn't interested and to leave him alone. As we approached the tower he noticed a street seller flogging watches just down the road, in Piazza Acivescovado and allowed him to spruik his products. Out came the watches, all looking in mint condition and guaranteed original. "How much for the Rolex?", Thomas would ask. "One hundred and twenty euro", the African dude would come back. "Your joking!" would be Thomas's reply. "Eighty" he'd come back. And so on it went until after walking away, they both settled on fifteen euro for one watch. Cheap just for the entertainment and the talking points back home. It was time to queue.

Tilting at four degrees and getting worse

The queue was short due to designated time slots. As we approached the front we entered almost immediately being warned not to loiter too much as the line needed to keep moving. The inside was interesting with devices set up so as to keep track on the tower's tilt progression and information boards setting out what was, what is now and what was expected.

The tower is continually monitored after underexcavation, reduction of inclination and stabilisation of groundwater took place during the nineties

Information boards at the tower's base

The climb to the top was the usual. Tight radius, enough lean for us to favour one side of the step or the other, depending on which side we were on and the manoeuvring around slower climbers and people returning from the top. After stopping to look out of each opening and grappling with the even tighter spiral staircase that delivered us to the deck on top, we exited to the late afternoon sunshine that lit up the Piazza dei Miracoli and its surrounds. A look around, the odd pose for the cameras and a less than scientific observation of the bells and their inscriptions and we were off, back down to the bottom for a leisurely stroll back to the bus.

Quasimodo, eat your heart out

The descent of the tower was a hell of a lot easier than the ascent and as such we didn't need too much of a break when we met up again. As a group we wandered through the Piazza dei Miracoli watching the many people relaxing, one way or another and admiring the cathedral, the baptistry and of course the Camposanto Monumentale. We had been lucky, as the further we travelled away from the south during the afternoon, the better the weather became. Since Pisa and Florence were of similar latitude and travelling south into rain, one would be hopeful that since leaving fine weather in Florence this morning and returning to fine weather in Pisa, we would return to fine weather when the day concluded. This was not to be.

Practising fornicators

The time to meet back at the bus was soon approaching so we left the fornicators behind and returned to the bus station the way we came. As we walked back past the Africans along Via Cammeo, they all started showing their watches and stuff again, so with Thomas needing another watch, he fronted one of the sellers and offered five euro for a Rolex. He agreed and off we went, feeling ripped off by the first exchange. By nine we had braved the rain that had indeed moved north and were settling down in our apartment.

Damn, he was ripped off

Late and wet

Tomorrow, a day to look around.

[jo-shaneflorence18]

Whatever floats your boat, Fiats or cooking

7/05/2018: Out of bed for a great day ahead. Only time for a cuppa but wouldn't you know it, after search high and low for a kettle and finding it tucked away and out of sight in the back of the cupboard, it didn't work. Boiling water in a saucepan was required. At least the electronic glass top stove was a lot user friendly than in Paris.

Jo and Cecilia left for their food and cooking tour before Tom, Beau and Shane. They had a nine o'clock departure time for their activity and had to be there twenty minutes early. They must have been keen as the meeting place, under the loggias at the Tours and News Stand in Piazza della Repubblica was just around the corner. Not long after the boys left for the Walkabout Tour's garage in via Vinegia, immediately behind Palazzo Vecchio so only a few minutes were needed to get there. They had a similar starting time but upon arrival, some of the Vespa people were already there and a few of the Fiat people. Tom put his name up to drive, they took his particulars and gave him a run through of how the car worked. All too easy. In the meantime Shane & Beau checked out the other vehicles in the garage.

Receiving Instruction

Jo and Cecilia were booked into the VIP Small Group Cooking Masterclass Tour and Historic Bottegas Food Tour (what a mouthful) through Ciao Florence Tours and met their tour guide Giuseppe who had a small group of 8 people to show around. The first part of the tour involved walking through a small street close to where we were staying. It actually ended up being our street! First stop was a Forno Sortoni. Forno means oven and in this case, means a bakery where breads and pastries are cooked on site. They were given a traditional Tuscan bread to try, cooked sans salt. Also on offer was focaccia and biscotti. Those that were coffee drinkers were given an expresso, those of us who were not coffee drinkers were given water.

First stop, Forno Sortoni

The Fiats were a bit slower to get going. Sorting them out, prepping up with driver instructions and decking out the scooter riders took some time but by a quarter to ten most were ready to go, the manager being unhappy with the delay, partly created by a Spanish woman who wanted the tour in Italian so she could understand it (Beau's interpretation). She argued for ages and by the time we left she was still arguing.

The guide, Alexandro (Ale) was quite a character and quite knowledgeable, got the boys in the vehicles, in convoy and out of the township. Ten minutes later they were climbing the bends up to Abbazia di San Miniato al Monte, a basilica that turned one thousand years old this year. Commencing in 1018 and taking almost a century to complete, the Tuscan Romanesque structure was built on the remains of an earlier church. The Monte in the title refers to mountain but is really only a hill affording panoramic views across Florence. The façade was completed much later, at a time when Florence was in dispute with Siena, hence there is only white and green marble. No pink as in the town centre as the pink came from Siena.

View of Florence from the forecourt

Apparently, whether you believe it or not, Minias after whom the church was named, was a Roman soldier who decided that he had had enough of the army and retired to Florence. Taking on Christianity, he became a hermit in a cave of some sort beneath the current abbey. During the Christian persecutions of the third century. He ended up being thrown into the middle of the Roman amphitheatre with a couple of panthers. These animals would not touch him so the Romans done it for them, cutting off his head. Refusing to die he tucked his head under his arm and walked home, dying there.

A few old frescos

Before the boys were even at San Miniato, the women had moved on to their next stop, a fruit and veg shop called Mauro Frutta. The shop was laid out with an amazing array of colour. They were shown fruits from the region and explained that some fruits were particular to Tuscany. Cherries were just coming into season and they were both given a sample to try. There was also another fruit that resembled a cross between an apricot and a persimmon to look at but no one in the group, neither they, the English, Canadians or Yanks could equate the taste to anything back home. It was yummy. There were also the smallest strawberries they had ever seen which were bush strawberries. They also sampled two types of tomatoes, cherries and dates of which the latter were particularly sweet and very nice.

Mauro Frutta

From Mauro Frutta they headed across Piazza della Signoria to a couple of back streets leading to a store specialising in olive oils and balsamic vinegars called La Bottega Dell'olio and given three different olive oils and three different balsamic vinegars to try. It was explained what food was best for each. There was a sweet balsamic vinegar that they were told could be used on strawberries and ice cream, hmmmm not sure about that!

Samples of vinegars and oils at La Bottega Dell'olio

By now it was eleven and tucker was on. The men heading off to eat it and the women setting up to cook it. Nothing's changed. Soon after leaving the basilica, Shane and the boys were driving through narrow laneways, potholed asphalt and very tight corners, stopping off at a lookout overlooking a valley of olive groves in the Florentine hills and a hidden away vineyard (paddock of grapes),  given an education by Ale about Tuscan olive oil and the difference between Chianti and Chianti Classico wine. All very interesting. It was at this time that Shane and Beau swapped front and rear seats. The back seat was quite cosy, Beau too tall and Shane too fat.

But it was then time to eat. Ale leading back the way we came, passing the entry to Abbazia di San Miniato al Monte and stopping at the front gate of where we were to eat. A small laneway off of Via della Torre del Gallo. We parked all the Fiats on a small area near the gate and walked down the numerous steps to the entertainment area, all owned by the Walkabout owner and setup to specifically cater for customers of their tours. The last time we were here with Zac and Soph, our group were the only ones there and their big dog Falco was quite pleased to see us. This time however there were a couple of dozen doing a cooking class so Falco was a lot less responsive. So much so that when Tom tried to be friendly with him and offered his hand, Falco gave a nip as to say that he's had enough of tourists for the day.

The narrow lane ways of the Florentine hills

It was cosy in the back seat

Parking up top

It was approach eleven thirty, eating time for some, cooking time for others. Jo and Cecilia crossed the Arno to the restaurant where their class was to occur, Ristorante Olio & Convivium. Bit of a problem though. No one was there! Giuseppe took them to a café on the corner to grab a drink while he hastily made a few phone calls. Finally after several calls and 45 minute wait, the manager arrived and let them into the restaurant. After heading off to wash their hands (hygiene is a must in any kitchen) they were provided aprons, went through the formal introductions of name and where they all hailed from and given a run down on what they were going to cook.  Almond biscotti, gnocchi, basil pesto, egg plant parmigiana and porcini risotto. No machines, this was going to be all by hand. Biscotti was prepared and put aside to rise. It was then on to the gnocchi which also had to sit for a while. During this waiting time they were taken into the seating area and treated to salamis, prosciutto, cheeses, bread and red wine. It was during this break the next problem arose. The oven was broken. Again frantic calls between the guide and the restaurant's head chef and a visit from the manager was to no avail. No biscotti for today. Awwwwww, all that work and no reward. Jo's looked pretty damn good too! It was back to the prep area where they commenced work on the basil pesto using a heavy mortar and pestle. This was bloody hard work for a weakling like Jo. Next, it was time to prepare the eggplant and then time for another glass of wine. It was then into the kitchen where the cooking on the stove top began. Cecilia volunteered to start the risotto. Nona in the making. Their gnocchi were cooked as a job lot, dished up a portion each and had it mixed with their own pesto. Several made it way too salty. Jo's was bearable. It was back to the tables where they ate their masterpieces, enjoyed conversation and downed another wine. Even with the hiccups at the "VIP" cooking class, it was a great day. Jo and Cec were given master Chef certificates then headed off on their way home.

Nona preparing the risotto

She passed. Now qualified to cook dinner

A less stressful time was being had across town. As was the last time, the food was excellent. Shane and the boys sat with a couple from Las Vegas, in fact all the other people were from the United States. Again the red wine came out (only one glass allowed for the drivers), pasta in tomato sauce followed by a large plate of meat, cheese and olives. Plenty of food and again all good. An hour or so there saw them heading back through the lane ways to Florence.

Yard beside the meal area

Pasta and antipasto for lunch

Travelling back in the Fiats was good, negotiating the traffic and traffic lights until they hit the last bridge. The first three Fiats turned left and must have turned right somewhere. The last three were caught up in traffic and ended up lost. With all of the one way streets and dead ends, they all ended up diving along the riverbank until they could cross the river and try to work out where they were on Google maps. It ended up getting them back to base but by the long way and where they weren't supposed to go. When finally arrived back, it was storming with light hail and whilst handing back the keys they were notified that they went through some streets illegally and that we would be fined. The company said that they would cover the cost but they did not have to. A little more instruction under heavy traffic and tight roads may have been the answer. Although everyone had radios, they were pretty poor and the messages pretty garbled. Anyway, to top it all off by the time the men left the workshop it was pouring so they found a Caffé  Pasticceria on the corner nearby and sat it out with a few ales. Everybody had the same idea so the place was packed, all looking for a seat. After a couple of beers the waiter was asked if it was still raining. He said it was so another round was ordered. After the third beer the waiter came over and told them it had stopped raining. It was "il conto per favore" and they were out of there.

Waiting for the rain to clear

Following the day's activities, it was time to change course. Cecilia and the boys had to rest up while Shane and Jo spent the early evening enjoying a walk around the Duomo. By the time that they returned to the apartment, the rested ones were up and ready to go, spending the late evening around Piazza della Signoria. Looking at the statues in Loggia dei Lanzi and listening to the live music. After the evening’s activities, we all settled down by trying some of the tasty vinegars and oils that the women had purchased during the day.

Walked the evening off around the Duomo

Another day down

Tomorrow, the Tuscan countryside.