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Dog Dental Treats and Chews, What You Need to Know About Your Dog’s Oral Health
One of the most important and most preventable diseases that your dog (or pet) will undoubtedly face in his lifetime is dental disease. The Royal Veterinary College of London (RVC) published a PDF in 2002 that stated periodontal disease is the most common infectious disease of adult dogs. Did you know that it affect over 87% of dogs that are over the age of three? That is a lot of dogs, living with a preventable disease!
The truth is that your dog’s oral hygiene and care of his teeth and mouth is just as importance as your oral hygiene and the care of your teeth and mouth! Not only will good oral hygiene play a major role in freshening breath; it will give your pet healthier teeth and reduce plaque and tartar
Could you imagine what your teeth would look like if you only brushed them once a month, once every 6 weeks, or perhaps never at all?
I often hear pet owners tell me that the groomer brushes their pet’s teeth every 6 weeks or so when they take them in for a haircut or bath. But, let me tell you that only caring about your dog’s breath or pet’s breath and oral hygiene every 6 weeks is not nearly enough for his teeth, mouth and all over body to remain healthy.
You see, pretty much immediately after your dog eats his dog food or even a treat, bacteria, combines with saliva, food and other substances (that were already in his mouth) to form an adhesive or gooey film; also known as plaque. This plaque then sits on top of his teeth and gums. Interestingly dogs have a more alkaline or acidic mouths than his human counterparts, which promotes more plaque formation. If this plaque is not brushed off or dealt with using dog dental treats or dog dental chews; it forms a hard calcified deposit known as tartar or dental calculus.
Plaque which leads to dental calculus and dental tartar can cause serious infections and gum disease.
Why?
Once plaque begins to form, long term, your dog’s body (or your body if we are talking human periodontal disease) sends white blood cells to defend or attack the foreign matter that it does not recognize. Due to the bacteria which is located in the sticky plaque causes the white blood cells to release enzymes that in turn also break down even healthy gum tissue.
This bacteria and addition of white blood cells can lead to severe infections that can even affect your dog’s heart, kidneys, and liver.
This break down and infection leads to destroyed tissue both healthy and infected, inflamed gums, and loss of bone. Infections can spiral out of control quickly and cause swelling around the jaw and even up underneath the eye socket causing severe pain in and around the ocular nerve and around surrounding tissue. This often leads to refusal to eat and lethargy. The swelling can even get to the point that it ruptures and oozes either outside the face and eye or inside the mouth. The veterinary oral health council can also provide more information for those pet owners who want to stay in the “know”. The veterinary oral health council has a lot of great information.
At this point, a canine dental cleaning and the extraction of teeth is required to relieve the pain and the promotion of healthy and regular eating habits to reemerge.
Effective dental cleanings require anesthesia and often dental x-rays. These will help your veterinarian to locate problems and clean up under the gumline. Awake canine dental cleaning (dentals without sedation or anesthesia; often offered by non-veterinarians) are unsafe and can be dangerous if your dog swallows, breathes or ingests a lot of paste or water. Your vet will be happy to speak to you about the risks and advantages for your specific dog.
Did you know that canine dental disease can even lead to a change in behavior and increase the likelihood of bites and aggression? When we or your furry friend are in pain, it often causes a change in behavior which can lead to a shorter fuse and more signs of aggression.
Common Signs of Dental Disease
Bad breath
Build up of yellow deposits on the teeth by the gums
Red swollen or bleeding gums
Blood in drinking water
Pawing at face
Head shyness or not wanting to be touched on the head or snout
Trouble eating and obvious pain when chewing
Increased salivation (sometimes bloody discharge)
Sneezing or nasal discharge (sometimes bloody) because advanced gum disease can destroy the bone between the nasal and oral cavity.
The good news?
Advanced dental disease is almost completely preventable and avoidable!
There was a veterinary study done on 53 Labrador Retrievers that discovered some very interesting information! Essentially age, breed, diet and nonregular veterinary canine dental cleanings largely contributed to periodontitis and lasting effects as well as loss of teeth. It also stated that some areas were difficult to assess by dog owners and recommended regular assessment by a qualified veterinarian (which sometimes might include sedation).
What Can You Do?
Daily tooth brushing for your pet is best! Most people brush twice a day!
Provide a nutritious hard (also known as dry) dog food. Some veterinary diets or dog foods are even formulated to help scrub your pet’s teeth and prevent plaque and decay.
Dog dental treats
Dog dental or oral care chews
Oral rinses
Water additives
Gels
Yearly and sometimes biannual (especially older at risk dogs) dental checkups with your vet
Not only will these things assist your pet with good oral health and the reduction of bacteria, it will help keep his heart, kidneys and liver strong all while providing fresh breath. This reduction in infection and disease can help your pet’s longevity and help him live a longer and happier life.
Get your puppy or kitten used to a brushing regimen and these products early in life; this will prevent a struggle with a full grown or adult pet and condition him that these habits are happy and a normal part of a healthy life! Remember dogs learn best and acclimate better when they are puppies.
I, for one, would do just about anything to extend my dog’s quality of life and give him more days, weeks, months or even years to spend with me. After all, our pets don’t live long enough.
Specially formulated Dental Dog Food
Most of the dentally formulated dog foods or pet foods are sold through prescription or your veterinary office only these tend to be slightly more effective. If in doubt even a handful of a prescription diet like Science Diet’s TD will help with your pet’s oral health.
Just a note. Avoid grain free diets! Grain free diets have been proven to cause some major heart issues in dogs that the veterinary world has just discovered. Grain free diets are not recommended and not safe. Stick with big dog food companies and brands and avoid the promises of small claims.
A few of those are:
Science Diet TD which combats plaque and tartar
Purina Pro Plan DH which combats tartar
Over the counter diets include:
Science Diet Oral Care for dogs which combats both plaque and tartar
Hills Healthy Advance Oral Care for Dogs which combats plaque and tartar
Eukanuba Adult Maintenance Diet which combats tartar
Dog Dental Treats and Chews
Ingredients Matter
Many of these dental treats for dogs include vitamins and minerals that not only help with freshening breath, these nutrients are also crucial to your pets development. Many of these vitamins, nutrients and minerals may not be found naturally.
One of the other ingredients in some of the dog dental chews is chlorhexidine. This ingredient is safe to ingest in small doses and helps to combat the bacteria that can reside in your best friend’s mouth. This ingredient also helps to freshen breath and keep plaque from adhering and forming tartar.
Enzymes are another ingredient that helps to break down plaque and tartar that are beginning to form. Just like enzyme cleaners help to break down pet urine, enzyme as an ingredient in treats for dogs, chews, water additives, gels, and toothpaste can help break down plaque and tartar.
C.E.T. manufactured by Virbac ® is one of the largest and most effective brands available. These products can be found online or at your veterinary hospital for purchase.
Just chewing something for an extended period of time will be helpful, like bully sticks. Dogs love bully sticks. Chewing helps to reduce tartar but if you want the best bang for your buck, research the ingredients that each product offers.
Different ingredients provide a different level of care for dealing with and reducing tartar and dealing with doggie breath. No one likes doggie breath. And, all good products will provide you with an ingredients list. Ingredients can also be researched online.
Greenies ®
One of the biggest and well known brands of dog dental treats and chews is Greenies which have been around since the early 2000’s, as I recall. But, controversy has followed Mars Inc. the pet care giant (and the company that owns Greenies).
In 2006, CNN exposed a story that revealed 13 dogs t had died after ingesting or biting off large pieces of one of the Greenies dental treats, touted to reduce tarter for healthier teeth and freshen breath. Dogs loved Greenies but these large pieces were not easily digested and some had to be surgically removed from several dogs.
One set of owners, Michale Eastwood and Jenny Reiff brought a 5 million dollar suit claiming that their dog, Burt, died after consuming a Greeny. The suit was settled out of court for an undisclosed amount.
Interestingly, several months before CNN brought to light the story and the dog owners brought suit; I had decided to quit feeding Greenies to my dog. He had continually vomited large pieces of undigested matter.
Thankfully, the suit brought about changes to the Greenies brand and Greenies were reconstructed and made more digestible. Dogs love Greenies still!
Years later Mars Inc. was again sued for touting Greenies as being the #1 veterinary recommended dog dental treats and chews.
Greenies are, however, still available and still very popular among veterinary staff and dog owners.
Dental issues can be avoided, as can bad doggie breath if you encourage chewing, brush your dog’s teeth, and implement some other great ingredients. You can even extend your dog’s life with good oral health care!
The post Dog Dental Treats and Chews, What You Need to Know About Your Dog’s Oral Health appeared first on TheDogTrainingSecret.com.
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Training Multiple Dogs Together
I am the pleased owner of several canines. I such as having greater than one canine and I’ve always had at least two since I was eighteen years of ages.
Growing up, my moms and dads were reluctant to let me have also ONE canine. They lastly caved, and also we obtained ONE pet dog, a Chow Chow, much to my joy. But I still pled my mother for another. She constantly countered with,”Then she would certainly be part of a pack and would need as well as like us less.”
I think this was simply a justification. Anyhow, when I relocated out and also got my own residence, it had not been long before I had two pets. The most I’ve ever had was four canines; currently, I’ve got three coping with me.
As well as it highlights for me, the more pet dogs you have, the a lot more you need to work at maintaining them qualified and also bonded with you, not simply with one another.
I’m often asked: “How do you educate more than one pet dog at once?”
It’s a fantastic inquiry due to the fact that I understand there are a lot of multi-dog homes available.
Today I’ll provide you my thoughts:
Can You Train Two 2Or MoreEven More Dogs Together?
Dogs resemble kids with fur; they’re energetic and also find it tough to concentrate, even when there are NO DISTRACTIONS. You really need to function to construct a great foundation
to get control of your pet dog’s habits in distracting atmospheres. And also, like toddlers, pets are extremely affordable. They do not like to share. And they don’t intend to share. So when you start training a couple of pet dogs with each other, they’re not considering what they’re doing– they’re expecting you compensating the various other dog.
Training takes longer … or does not produce outcomes at all.
It’s not the method to construct a strong foundation of abilities in each individual pet dog.
Envision taking toddlers to a ZOO and trying to show them to do or check out mathematics issues. Would certainly it work? Naturally not. There are way too many interruptions; the kids will not focus, and also they’ll end up being distressed.
That’s why you’ll never see a cops or solution canine fitness instructor dealing with TWO DOGS at the same time. Even if one dog is currently extremely educated.
Professionals understand that dogs don’t learn also together.
The dogs are as well sidetracked. And the handler isn’t effective– it’s difficult to offer TWO DOGS prompt incentives, improvements, and focus.
The Argument For Teaching Your Dogs One At A Time
< img class =" aligncenter wp-image-17252 size-large" src =" https://thedogtrainingsecret.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/can-you-train-two-dogs-together-580×379.jpg "alt ="can you educate two canines together"size= "580 "elevation="379" srcset="https://thedogtrainingsecret.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/can-you-train-two-dogs-together-580×379.jpg 580w, https://thedogtrainingsecret.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/can-you-train-two-dogs-together-300×196.jpg 300w, https://thedogtrainingsecret.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/can-you-train-two-dogs-together-600×392.jpg 600w, https://thedogtrainingsecret.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/can-you-train-two-dogs-together.jpg 731w "sizes=" (max-width: 580px) 100vw
, 580px”> I separate my canines when I am showing one of them something new. I place everybody else in a cage or outdoors or in an additional room as well as I work ONE DOG at a time. By doing this they have my complete concentration and also their little minds aren’t spinning regarding that else could take” THEIR”cookie. They don’t need to bother with giving have an odor eye, or tensing or roaring when cookies are shared; they can just focus on the command I am teaching.
As well as by providing my FULL ATTENTION to one dog, I observe the nanosecond that he/she makes a positive step toward the actions, and also offer positive support.
This supplies the dog more clear communication … rates their knowing … and also motivates us BOTH, with faster successes.
Educating my canine separately additionally permits me to bond with each of them as people. I do not desire my dogs to be overly reliant on one another. I have had a number of pets reoccur and also obtain cancer and die and I don’t want my various other canines to not recognize exactly how to work without the various other. This training provides individual focus as well as reveals them just how much fun spending time with me can be!
Do my various other dogs throw fits when I take an additional out? In some cases. Yet I do not mind as well as ignore them. It informs me they’re excited since they recognize it’s THEIR TURN following.
If I actually hated it, I could educate them to be silent when I entrust one more dog.
When It’s Appropriate To Train Your Dogs TOGETHER
Is it EVER a good concept to train your pet dogs with each other? Yes and also no. No, I can not properly show them something NEW when I have more than one. Yes, once they’ve learned the behavior, I can ask them to carry out the habits TOGETHER. I often walk all three dogs with each other on-leash. However, certainly, I showed them each leash good manners and heel individually.
Some individuals ask me if they can use their pets AGAINST each other in training, to speed it along. Definitely! This is a wonderful way to improve your canine’s total emphasis as well as can be really encouraging and also fun for them. Dogs usually get to an area in their training where they test you with a “Make Me” perspective. This is when I like to bring in an additional pet dog.
Assuming the dog genuinely knows the habits I’m requesting, I’ll bring in a second pet dog and inquire to execute it for me.
If the second dog carries out the actions, he gets a JACKPOT of treats, appreciation, as well as affection. (Provided you’re confident this won’t instigate a dog fight with your staff.)
The very first canine enjoys all of this … as well as suddenly is DESPERATE to execute for you, also. When I educated Service Dogs, they all needed to master constant, reliable retrieval of ANYTHING … even steel, which tastes gross.
So when they ‘d at some point refuse to recover products they really did not such as, I ‘d generate my star pupil, “Nix” that would certainly do ANYTHING for a cookie. Nix would right away obtain the item on command and appreciate his JACKPOT of deals with and also love. While I purposefully overlooked the other dog.
I would certainly after that repeat this circumstance with Nix a few more times … till I can see the very first canine was now eager and also distressed to please.
Contending for the opportunity to do generally made these obstinate pet dogs determine they wanted to benefit me.
Once again, however, be sure your pet comprehends the fundamental command and also can accurately execute it for you without diversions prior to you attempt this!
Or else, it’s unfair!
Delighted training …
source http://www.luckydogsolutions.com/training-multiple-dogs-together/
from Lucky Dog Solutions https://luckydogsolutions.blogspot.com/2020/09/training-multiple-dogs-together.html
0 notes
Text
Training Multiple Dogs Together
I am the pleased owner of several canines. I such as having greater than one canine and I’ve always had at least two since I was eighteen years of ages.
Growing up, my moms and dads were reluctant to let me have also ONE canine. They lastly caved, and also we obtained ONE pet dog, a Chow Chow, much to my joy. But I still pled my mother for another. She constantly countered with,”Then she would certainly be part of a pack and would need as well as like us less.”
I think this was simply a justification. Anyhow, when I relocated out and also got my own residence, it had not been long before I had two pets. The most I’ve ever had was four canines; currently, I’ve got three coping with me.
As well as it highlights for me, the more pet dogs you have, the a lot more you need to work at maintaining them qualified and also bonded with you, not simply with one another.
I’m often asked: “How do you educate more than one pet dog at once?”
It’s a fantastic inquiry due to the fact that I understand there are a lot of multi-dog homes available.
Today I’ll provide you my thoughts:
Can You Train Two 2Or MoreEven More Dogs Together?
Dogs resemble kids with fur; they’re energetic and also find it tough to concentrate, even when there are NO DISTRACTIONS. You really need to function to construct a great foundation
to get control of your pet dog’s habits in distracting atmospheres. And also, like toddlers, pets are extremely affordable. They do not like to share. And they don’t intend to share. So when you start training a couple of pet dogs with each other, they’re not considering what they’re doing– they’re expecting you compensating the various other dog.
Training takes longer … or does not produce outcomes at all.
It’s not the method to construct a strong foundation of abilities in each individual pet dog.
Envision taking toddlers to a ZOO and trying to show them to do or check out mathematics issues. Would certainly it work? Naturally not. There are way too many interruptions; the kids will not focus, and also they’ll end up being distressed.
That’s why you’ll never see a cops or solution canine fitness instructor dealing with TWO DOGS at the same time. Even if one dog is currently extremely educated.
Professionals understand that dogs don’t learn also together.
The dogs are as well sidetracked. And the handler isn’t effective– it’s difficult to offer TWO DOGS prompt incentives, improvements, and focus.
The Argument For Teaching Your Dogs One At A Time
< img class =“ aligncenter wp-image-17252 size-large” src =“ https://thedogtrainingsecret.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/can-you-train-two-dogs-together-580×379.jpg "alt ="can you educate two canines together"size= "580 "elevation="379” srcset=“https://thedogtrainingsecret.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/can-you-train-two-dogs-together-580×379.jpg 580w, https://thedogtrainingsecret.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/can-you-train-two-dogs-together-300×196.jpg 300w, https://thedogtrainingsecret.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/can-you-train-two-dogs-together-600×392.jpg 600w, https://thedogtrainingsecret.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/can-you-train-two-dogs-together.jpg 731w "sizes=” (max-width: 580px) 100vw
, 580px”> I separate my canines when I am showing one of them something new. I place everybody else in a cage or outdoors or in an additional room as well as I work ONE DOG at a time. By doing this they have my complete concentration and also their little minds aren’t spinning regarding that else could take” THEIR”cookie. They don’t need to bother with giving have an odor eye, or tensing or roaring when cookies are shared; they can just focus on the command I am teaching.
As well as by providing my FULL ATTENTION to one dog, I observe the nanosecond that he/she makes a positive step toward the actions, and also offer positive support.
This supplies the dog more clear communication … rates their knowing … and also motivates us BOTH, with faster successes.
Educating my canine separately additionally permits me to bond with each of them as people. I do not desire my dogs to be overly reliant on one another. I have had a number of pets reoccur and also obtain cancer and die and I don’t want my various other canines to not recognize exactly how to work without the various other. This training provides individual focus as well as reveals them just how much fun spending time with me can be!
Do my various other dogs throw fits when I take an additional out? In some cases. Yet I do not mind as well as ignore them. It informs me they’re excited since they recognize it’s THEIR TURN following.
If I actually hated it, I could educate them to be silent when I entrust one more dog.
When It’s Appropriate To Train Your Dogs TOGETHER
Is it EVER a good concept to train your pet dogs with each other? Yes and also no. No, I can not properly show them something NEW when I have more than one. Yes, once they’ve learned the behavior, I can ask them to carry out the habits TOGETHER. I often walk all three dogs with each other on-leash. However, certainly, I showed them each leash good manners and heel individually.
Some individuals ask me if they can use their pets AGAINST each other in training, to speed it along. Definitely! This is a wonderful way to improve your canine’s total emphasis as well as can be really encouraging and also fun for them. Dogs usually get to an area in their training where they test you with a “Make Me” perspective. This is when I like to bring in an additional pet dog.
Assuming the dog genuinely knows the habits I’m requesting, I’ll bring in a second pet dog and inquire to execute it for me.
If the second dog carries out the actions, he gets a JACKPOT of treats, appreciation, as well as affection. (Provided you’re confident this won’t instigate a dog fight with your staff.)
The very first canine enjoys all of this … as well as suddenly is DESPERATE to execute for you, also. When I educated Service Dogs, they all needed to master constant, reliable retrieval of ANYTHING … even steel, which tastes gross.
So when they ‘d at some point refuse to recover products they really did not such as, I ‘d generate my star pupil, “Nix” that would certainly do ANYTHING for a cookie. Nix would right away obtain the item on command and appreciate his JACKPOT of deals with and also love. While I purposefully overlooked the other dog.
I would certainly after that repeat this circumstance with Nix a few more times … till I can see the very first canine was now eager and also distressed to please.
Contending for the opportunity to do generally made these obstinate pet dogs determine they wanted to benefit me.
Once again, however, be sure your pet comprehends the fundamental command and also can accurately execute it for you without diversions prior to you attempt this!
Or else, it’s unfair!
Delighted training …
from Lucky Dog Solutions http://www.luckydogsolutions.com/training-multiple-dogs-together/
from Lucky Dog Solutions https://luckydogsolutions.tumblr.com/post/628345809815126016
0 notes
Text
Training Multiple Dogs Together
I am the pleased owner of several canines. I such as having greater than one canine and I’ve always had at least two since I was eighteen years of ages.
Growing up, my moms and dads were reluctant to let me have also ONE canine. They lastly caved, and also we obtained ONE pet dog, a Chow Chow, much to my joy. But I still pled my mother for another. She constantly countered with,”Then she would certainly be part of a pack and would need as well as like us less.”
I think this was simply a justification. Anyhow, when I relocated out and also got my own residence, it had not been long before I had two pets. The most I’ve ever had was four canines; currently, I’ve got three coping with me.
As well as it highlights for me, the more pet dogs you have, the a lot more you need to work at maintaining them qualified and also bonded with you, not simply with one another.
I’m often asked: “How do you educate more than one pet dog at once?”
It’s a fantastic inquiry due to the fact that I understand there are a lot of multi-dog homes available.
Today I’ll provide you my thoughts:
Can You Train Two 2Or MoreEven More Dogs Together?
Dogs resemble kids with fur; they’re energetic and also find it tough to concentrate, even when there are NO DISTRACTIONS. You really need to function to construct a great foundation
to get control of your pet dog’s habits in distracting atmospheres. And also, like toddlers, pets are extremely affordable. They do not like to share. And they don’t intend to share. So when you start training a couple of pet dogs with each other, they’re not considering what they’re doing– they’re expecting you compensating the various other dog.
Training takes longer … or does not produce outcomes at all.
It’s not the method to construct a strong foundation of abilities in each individual pet dog.
Envision taking toddlers to a ZOO and trying to show them to do or check out mathematics issues. Would certainly it work? Naturally not. There are way too many interruptions; the kids will not focus, and also they’ll end up being distressed.
That’s why you’ll never see a cops or solution canine fitness instructor dealing with TWO DOGS at the same time. Even if one dog is currently extremely educated.
Professionals understand that dogs don’t learn also together.
The dogs are as well sidetracked. And the handler isn’t effective– it’s difficult to offer TWO DOGS prompt incentives, improvements, and focus.
The Argument For Teaching Your Dogs One At A Time
< img class =" aligncenter wp-image-17252 size-large" src =" https://thedogtrainingsecret.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/can-you-train-two-dogs-together-580×379.jpg "alt ="can you educate two canines together"size= "580 "elevation="379" srcset="https://thedogtrainingsecret.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/can-you-train-two-dogs-together-580×379.jpg 580w, https://thedogtrainingsecret.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/can-you-train-two-dogs-together-300×196.jpg 300w, https://thedogtrainingsecret.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/can-you-train-two-dogs-together-600×392.jpg 600w, https://thedogtrainingsecret.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/can-you-train-two-dogs-together.jpg 731w "sizes=" (max-width: 580px) 100vw
, 580px”> I separate my canines when I am showing one of them something new. I place everybody else in a cage or outdoors or in an additional room as well as I work ONE DOG at a time. By doing this they have my complete concentration and also their little minds aren’t spinning regarding that else could take” THEIR”cookie. They don’t need to bother with giving have an odor eye, or tensing or roaring when cookies are shared; they can just focus on the command I am teaching.
As well as by providing my FULL ATTENTION to one dog, I observe the nanosecond that he/she makes a positive step toward the actions, and also offer positive support.
This supplies the dog more clear communication … rates their knowing … and also motivates us BOTH, with faster successes.
Educating my canine separately additionally permits me to bond with each of them as people. I do not desire my dogs to be overly reliant on one another. I have had a number of pets reoccur and also obtain cancer and die and I don’t want my various other canines to not recognize exactly how to work without the various other. This training provides individual focus as well as reveals them just how much fun spending time with me can be!
Do my various other dogs throw fits when I take an additional out? In some cases. Yet I do not mind as well as ignore them. It informs me they’re excited since they recognize it’s THEIR TURN following.
If I actually hated it, I could educate them to be silent when I entrust one more dog.
When It’s Appropriate To Train Your Dogs TOGETHER
Is it EVER a good concept to train your pet dogs with each other? Yes and also no. No, I can not properly show them something NEW when I have more than one. Yes, once they’ve learned the behavior, I can ask them to carry out the habits TOGETHER. I often walk all three dogs with each other on-leash. However, certainly, I showed them each leash good manners and heel individually.
Some individuals ask me if they can use their pets AGAINST each other in training, to speed it along. Definitely! This is a wonderful way to improve your canine’s total emphasis as well as can be really encouraging and also fun for them. Dogs usually get to an area in their training where they test you with a “Make Me” perspective. This is when I like to bring in an additional pet dog.
Assuming the dog genuinely knows the habits I’m requesting, I’ll bring in a second pet dog and inquire to execute it for me.
If the second dog carries out the actions, he gets a JACKPOT of treats, appreciation, as well as affection. (Provided you’re confident this won’t instigate a dog fight with your staff.)
The very first canine enjoys all of this … as well as suddenly is DESPERATE to execute for you, also. When I educated Service Dogs, they all needed to master constant, reliable retrieval of ANYTHING … even steel, which tastes gross.
So when they ‘d at some point refuse to recover products they really did not such as, I ‘d generate my star pupil, “Nix” that would certainly do ANYTHING for a cookie. Nix would right away obtain the item on command and appreciate his JACKPOT of deals with and also love. While I purposefully overlooked the other dog.
I would certainly after that repeat this circumstance with Nix a few more times … till I can see the very first canine was now eager and also distressed to please.
Contending for the opportunity to do generally made these obstinate pet dogs determine they wanted to benefit me.
Once again, however, be sure your pet comprehends the fundamental command and also can accurately execute it for you without diversions prior to you attempt this!
Or else, it’s unfair!
Delighted training …
from Lucky Dog Solutions http://www.luckydogsolutions.com/training-multiple-dogs-together/
0 notes
Text
Seborrhea in Dogs: Are Vitamins the Answer? – TheDogTrainingSecret.com
Seborrhea in canines is a really critical situation, usually linked with pores and skin issues. It not solely could be very uncomfortable for the dog, nevertheless it additionally continuously is an indication of different medical circumstances and may result in critical infections. Learn extra about this pores and skin illness, and what to do about it.
Seborrhea in Dogs and Vitamins
Dog Have Diarrhea?
Probiotics might help get your dog’s intestine working proper once more, and enhance nutrient absorption to assist with a number of well being points.
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What is Seborrhea?
In canines, seborrhea is a pores and skin illness that’s characterised by a defect in keratinization or cornification of the outer layer of the pores and skin, hair follicles, or claws. Keratinization is the course of in which the protecting outer layer of pores and skin is being always renewed by new pores and skin cells.
Seborrhea outcomes in elevated scale formation, pores and skin issues, often extreme greasiness of the pores and skin and hair coat, and sometimes secondary irritation and an infection.
In different phrases, Seborrhea in dogs is a pores and skin illness that may trigger your pets pores and skin to be very dry and flaky, or it may be simply the reverse, very greasy. It is believed to be an inherited illness because it usually has a household historical past.
It often begins to kind when a pet is between the ages of 12 to 18 months previous. The time period Seborrhea really means a scaling or flaking of pores and skin.
Types of Seborrhea
There are three forms of Seborrhea in canines; Seborrhea sicca, which is the dry kind and can display dry and scaly circumstances in your pet, Seborrhea oleosa, which causes an overproduction of oil in the pores and skin which makes it stink and really helped to coin the phrase smelly dog, and Seborrheic dermatitis, which demonstrates each circumstances.
Seborrheic dermatitis might be harmful to your pet because it usually prompted irritation. It will begin round the oil glands positioned in your pet’s face, behind the ears, and on their scalp.
It could cause your pets scalp to develop into infected, very greasy, waxy, and if extreme, it could actually a rash that will result in infections.
Causes of Seborrhea
Seborrheic dermatitis is introduced on by a yeast an infection which can also be the main reason behind dandruff in canines. The different types are attributable to insufficient capabilities inside your pet’s cells of their pores and skin.
In most traditional circumstances cells in the pores and skin will dry out as they’re worn off and making method for brand spanking new cells that can substitute them. These new cells will kind deeper into your pet’s pores and skin.
This course of is known as keratinization and it’s making keratin and drying the cells at the identical time. Keratin is a really powerful and insoluble protein that’s the foremost structural constituent of the hair in addition to the nails of your dog. This course of usually takes about 2 to three weeks in canines; nonetheless, with Seborrhea, this all modifications.
This is often a course of that’s each gradual and fairly structured, nevertheless it breaks down, drastically hastens, and because of this doesn’t enable for the cells to perform correctly.
They primarily don’t have any time to go deeper into your pet’s pores and skin, and because of this, they begin to construct up on the layers of the pores and skin, creating seborrhea in canines, inflicting dry skin, dandruff, rashes, and sores.
To compound the state of affairs, there can also be a malfunction in each the quantities and the high quality of secretion from the sebaceous glands.
Those glands are the glands which can be discovered in the dermis of your pet’s pores and skin that open into hair follicles and these glands main perform is to supply and secrete sebum.
When working usually, they progressively launch and enrich your dog’s pores and skin with oil secretions.
The precise reason behind Seborrhea in dogs shall be both main or secondary. In main circumstances, will probably be genetic, or inherited. In secondary circumstances, in might be attributable to a number of underlying circumstances reminiscent of; flea or meals allergy symptoms, hormonal problems reminiscent of hypothyroidism, Cushing illness, inner or exterior parasites, ringworms, or dietary problems.
There might be two main causes of this situation; main, which is genetic and thus inherited, or it may be secondary and the results of a number of underlying causes, however in most circumstances will probably be a dietary deficiency. With the secondary kind, it could actually have an effect on any breed of dog.
The breeds that appear to be the most affected genetically are German Shepherds, Labradors, Golden Retrievers, Dachshunds, Basset Hounds, Terriers, and Spaniels, particularly American Cocker and English Springer’s, and effectively as Miniature Schnauzers.
However, it will also be discovered in overweight canines of any breed as they may have a harder time in correctly grooming themselves.
Primary seborrhea is an inherited pores and skin dysfunction.
It is seen most continuously in American Cocker Spaniels, English Springer Spaniels, Basset Hounds, West Highland White Terriers, Dachshunds, Labrador and Golden Retrievers, and German Shepherd canines.
Among canines with seborrhea, there may be often a household historical past of the dysfunction, suggesting genetic components are concerned.
The illness begins at a younger age (often lower than 18 to 24 months) and progresses all through the dog’s life.
Secondary seborrhea is an indication of an underlying illness that causes extreme scaling, crusting, or oiliness, usually accompanied by pus-crammed irritation, an infection, and hair loss.
In the overwhelming majority of circumstances it’s a dietary dysfunction.
Signs and Diagnosis
A prognosis of main seborrhea is reserved for canines in which all potential underlying causes of seborrhea have been excluded. Most canines with seborrhea have the secondary type of the illness. The commonest underlying causes are hormonal problems and allergy symptoms.
The objective is to establish and deal with these underlying causes.
Allergies usually tend to be the underlying trigger if the age of onset is lower than 5 years.
Hormonal problems are extra possible if the seborrhea begins in center aged or older canines.
An absence of itching helps to exclude allergy symptoms, scabies, and different itching ailments.
If itching is minimal, your veterinarian will search to exclude hormonal problems, different inner ailments, or different main pores and skin ailments. If itching is critical, allergy symptoms, scabies, and fleas can even be thought of by your veterinarian.
Other vital issues in making a prognosis embody the presence of extreme urination, extreme consuming, warmth-in search of conduct, irregular estrous cycles, pores and skin infections, the season, weight loss plan, response to earlier medicines, fungi or micro organism current, and the surroundings.
Your veterinarian will give your pet a radical bodily examination, together with inner organ programs and a complete pores and skin examination.
This is the first step in figuring out the underlying trigger.
The pores and skin examination paperwork the sort and distribution of the abnormalities; the presence of hair loss; and the diploma of odor, scale, oiliness, and texture of the pores and skin and hair coat.
The presence of follicular boils, papules (pimples), crusts, and different bumps often signifies the existence of a superficial pyoderma (bacterial an infection).
Darkening signifies a persistent pores and skin irritation (reminiscent of an infection or irritation), and pores and skin thickening signifies persistent itching. Yeast an infection will all the time be thought of throughout this course of.
Secondary an infection is an issue for canines with seborrhea. The keratinization abnormalities in seborrheic canines often present best circumstances for bacterial and yeast infections. The self-trauma that happens in itchy animals will increase the probability of a secondary an infection. The infections add to the itchiness and are often liable for a big quantity of irritation, papules, crusts, hair loss, and scales.
Samples of the affected areas are taken to establish the amount and sort of micro organism or yeast current. In a seborrheic dog with itching, the an infection might trigger all or most of the indicators. Other ailments could also be uncovered by clearing the infections. Thus, it is best to you’ll want to adjust to any comply with up examination requests made by your veterinarian.
Additional checks can also be needed, together with pores and skin scraping, fungal and bacterial cultures, flea combing, pores and skin biopsy, and blood and urine checks.
Symptoms:
There are many widespread signs of seborrhea.
Flakiness in canines is sort of regular amongst signs, particularly in puppies as their pores and skin and cells are nonetheless creating. However, what isn’t regular is extreme scaling or flaking.
If you your pet smells, even after you’ve got bathed them, the likelihood is very excessive that they’ve Seborrhea.
You will know the moist dog odor when it occurs; they mainly begin to stink.
If the signs are extreme, your dog’s pores and skin and hair will really really feel greasy, as a result of it’s. With extreme secretion, your pet might develop pink pores and skin, or a rash and the ears might develop into infected. When extreme, you pet will begin to each scratch and lick excessively.
According to VCA Animal Hospitals,
“Seborrhea or seborrheic dermatitis is a pores and skin dysfunction in which the sebaceous glands of the pores and skin produce an extreme quantity of sebum inflicting scaly, flaky, itchy, and pink pores and skin. Seborrhea usually impacts the again, face, and flanks and is worse in the folds of the pores and skin.
There are two forms of seborrhea, known as seborrhea sicca (which means dry seborrhea), and seborrhea oleosa (which means oily seborrhea). Most canines with seborrheic dermatitis have a mix of dry and oily seborrhea…
“In canines, seborrhea often impacts pores and skin areas which can be wealthy in sebaceous glands, particularly the pores and skin alongside the again. The affected areas of pores and skin usually flake off in whitish scales (dandruff) that may be seen on the dog’s bedding and different locations the place the dog lies.
“Many dogs will have an odor associated with seborrhea.”
Some pores and skin areas could also be pink and infected, with both a dry or an oily really feel to the lesions. The dermatitis could also be worse in areas with pores and skin folds reminiscent of the ft, neck, lips, armpits, thighs, and underside. Many canines can have an odor related to seborrhea. This odor is often worsened if the seborrhea is sophisticated by a secondary bacterial or yeast pores and skin an infection…
“Seborrhea generally is a main or secondary illness. Primary seborrhea is inherited and happens in breeds reminiscent of Cocker Spaniels, West Highland White Terriers, and Basset Hounds. Secondary seborrhea is extra widespread; nonetheless the precise trigger can not all the time be decided. In these circumstances it’s known as idiopathic seborrhea.
Secondary seborrhea is usually associated to an underlying medical downside, reminiscent of:
hormonal imbalances (e.g., thyroid illness, Cushing’s illness)
allergy symptoms
parasites (inner and exterior) – fleas, ticks, mange mites
fungal infections – particularly yeast pores and skin infections (Malassezia)
dietary abnormalities – poor diets containing low ranges of omega-three fatty acids
environmental components (temperature, humidity modifications)
weight problems
musculoskeletal illness or ache – the dog is unable to groom itself correctly…
“Tests that may assist your veterinarian in diagnosing your dog’s seborrhea embody:
Complete blood cell rely (CBC), serum chemistries and electrolytes. Looks for subclinical or hidden underlying circumstances or imbalances.
Skin cytology and pores and skin biopsy. Looks for inflammatory cells, micro organism, yeast, fungus, and irregular cells.
Skin scrapings and hair pluckings. Looks for parasites reminiscent of mites.
Skin tradition. Looks for bacterial and fungal infections, together with ringworm.
Hormone checks. Looks for hormonal imbalances (e.g., thyroid illness and Cushing’s illness testing)…
“Treatment is aimed toward the underlying trigger. If no underlying trigger might be discovered, then a prognosis of main or idiopathic seborrhea is made. Unfortunately, there isn’t a particular therapy for main or idiopathic seborrhea. In normal, therapies that assist handle seborrhea embody:
omega-three fatty acid dietary supplements
antiseborrheic shampoos or sprays
corticosteroids (e.g., prednisone)
retinoids
oral cyclosporine (e.g., model title Atopica®)
antibiotics to deal with secondary bacterial infections…”
Treatment
The therapies for Seborrhea in canines will range relying on the precise reason behind the situation. If there may be an underlying trigger aside from a deficiency reminiscent of a yeast an infection or bacterial infections, they are going to be handled with medicines prescribed by your veterinarian.
Medicated shampoos shall be the first line of assault, however it is going to rely on which sort of Seborrhea it’s, however as soon as that’s decided, choice could be very straightforward. Douxo mousse and douxo shampoo are choices to think about whereas combating your dog’s seborrheic dandruff.
You might should trim a few of your dog’s hair for the shampoo to totally penetrate and produce the greatest outcomes.
Most merchandise contained in medicated shampoos might be labeled primarily based on their results. Keratolytic merchandise embody sulfur, salicylic acid, tar, selenium sulfide, propylene glycol, fatty acids, and benzoyl peroxide. They take away extra useless pores and skin cells. This reduces the scale and makes the pores and skin really feel softer. Shampoos containing keratolytic merchandise continuously improve scaling throughout the first 14 days of therapy, as a consequence of the loosened scales getting caught in the hair coat.
The scales shall be eliminated by continued bathing. Keratoplastic merchandise assist normalize keratinization and cut back scale formation. Tar, sulfur, salicylic acid, and selenium sulfide are examples of keratoplastic brokers. Emollients (lactic acid, sodium lactate, lanolin, and quite a few oils, reminiscent of corn, coconut, peanut, and cottonseed) cut back water loss from the pores and skin. They work greatest after the pores and skin has been rehydrated and are wonderful merchandise after shampooing.
Antibacterial brokers embody benzoyl peroxide, chlorhexidine, iodine, ethyl lactate, tris-EDTA, and triclosan. Antifungal elements embody chlorhexidine, sulfur, iodine, ketoconazole, and miconazole. Boric and acetic acids are additionally used as topical antibiotics. Most medicated shampoos are a mix of those elements.
Next, you’ll have to handle the dietary deficiency that’s almost certainly the actual trigger. In most all circumstances Omega three fatty acids shall be beneficial by your veterinarian. They can be found in capsule or liquid capsule kind, however the liquid kind is far more efficient.
Vitamins A, C, and E can even assist not solely controlling this pores and skin an infection, however in most circumstances to maintain it in verify completely.
Vitamin C is extraordinarily efficient in pores and skin circumstances in canines as it’s an antioxidant in addition to an agent that protects your pets system from pollution. It additionally helps to scrub the toxins clear out of your dog’s tissues, cells, and blood.
Vitamin E is taken into account the surprise vitamin for canines because it helps with their circulatory system particularly in the correct generations of cells, as effectively, performing as the chief therapeutic agent in their pores and skin. It is an absolute should for Seborrhea in dogs.
Vitamin A deficiency is the primary reason behind hardening and tough pores and skin in canines and it also needs to be a secure in the safety of your pet with this situation.
Treatment is required in order to maintain your dog comfy whereas the underlying trigger is recognized and secondary pores and skin ailments are corrected. In addition to treating any secondary infections with antibiotics, medicated shampoos are sometimes used to assist management the seborrhea and pace the return of the pores and skin to a standard state. Medicated shampoos can lower the variety of micro organism and yeast on the pores and skin floor, the quantity of scale and sebum current, and the degree of itching. They can also assist normalize pores and skin cell substitute.
Follow the recommendation of your veterinarian concerning the most acceptable medicated shampoo in your pet with seborrhea. The choice of a medicated shampoo is predicated on hair coat and pores and skin scaling and oiliness. Never use a shampoo formulated for folks with out the consent of your veterinarian.
Antibiotics are usually beneficial for three to four weeks for bacterial pores and skin infections. Fungal infections are widespread and are handled with antifungal medicines.
Summary:
Seborrhea in canines generally is a actual menace to your pet, however as soon as correctly recognized, handled, after which correctly supplemented, it must be very straightforward to manage. Once managed, you’ll possible by no means have to fret a couple of smelly dog once more.
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Featured Dog Breed: Weimaraner - TheDogTrainingSecret.com
Featured Dog Breed: Weimaraner – TheDogTrainingSecret.com
Weimaraners are a devoted dog breed who want to be with people all of the time, which can be unnerving. But if you enjoy always having a dog by your side — and can spare plenty of time for hiking, jogging, or hunting — the Weimaraner can be an ideal canine sidekick.
Today, we’ll take a look at the Weimaraner dog breed, including its temperament, health, history, appearance, and grooming!
Weimar…
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The 9 Ways You Are Stressing Your Dog Out - TheDogTrainingSecret.com skin conditioning oil
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Training Multiple Dogs Together: Mistakes To Avoid & Success Secrets
I am the proud owner of multiple dogs. I like having more than one dog and I’ve always had at least two since I was eighteen years old.
Growing up, my parents were reluctant to let me have ONE dog. We finally got ONE dog, a Chow Chow, and I begged for another, but my mom always said, “then she’d be part of a pack and would need and love us less.”
I think this was just an excuse.
So anyway, when I moved out and got my own house, it wasn’t long before I owned two dogs. The most I’ve ever had was four dogs; currently, I’ve got three living with me.
And it highlights for me, the more dogs you have, the more you must work at keeping them trained and bonded with you, not just with one another.
I’m frequently asked: “How do you train more than one dog at a time?”
It’s a great question, because I know there are plenty of multi-dog homes out there.
So today we’ll discuss this important topic and I’ll offer you my thoughts:
Can You Train Two (Or More) Dogs Something NEW Together?
Dogs are like toddlers with fur; they have an excess of energy and they have a hard enough time concentrating when there are NO DISTRACTIONS. You really have to work to build a good foundation to get control of your dog’s behaviors in distracting environments.
And, dogs are super competitive (just like toddlers) they really don’t like, nor do they want to share. And when you put a couple of them together and try to train; they aren’t thinking about what they are doing they are anticipating you rewarding the other dog.
Dogs just can’t learn something with another or other dogs present; it just isn’t fair. Even if you do train them this way it is going to take twice as long and not be as effective or build that strong foundation you are looking for.
Take those toddlers to a zoo and try and teach them something difficult like math or reading… do you think that would be an effective place for learning?
You never see a police dog trainer, or an assistance dog trainer trying to train a new dog with another new or even experienced dog (socializing is different).
Professionals know that dogs don’t learn as well together.
That is they can’t learn together while sharing the same handler, nor can the handler (or owner) give more than one dog the appropriate timing and attention.
I often giggle when I rewatch some of the videos I have shot for this program since I often let all my dogs hang out while I work with one of them. I might ask for eye contact and focus or for the dog to sit and I see in the background my other dogs staring wildly at me or sitting when I ask, and yet I don’t see them at the time. I am too busy focusing on the dog I am commanding.
In a dog that knows the command, this isn’t a big deal and he/she knows with whom I am working but when I am teaching a dog this is too distracting and confusing.
The Argument For Teaching Your Dog’s One At A Time
I separate my dogs when I am teaching one of them something new. I put everybody else in a crate or outside or separate into another room and I work one dog at a time. This way they have my full concentration and their little minds aren’t spinning about who else might steal “THEIR” cookie. They don’t have to worry about giving stink eye, or stiffening or growling when cookies are shared; they can simply concentrate on the command I am teaching. And later, once they have learned the command they are much less possessive over treats.
And, I can give my full attention to one dog and notice the millisecond that he/she makes a positive step toward the behavior and this gives the dog clearer communication and the ability to succeed.
It also allows me to bond with each of them separately as individuals. I don’t want my dogs to be overly reliant on one another. I have had several dogs come and go and get cancer and die and I don’t want my other dogs to not know how to function without the other. This training gives them individual attention and shows them how much fun spending time with me can be!
Do my other dogs throw fits when I take another out… sometimes… but I don’t mind; to me that tells me they are excited because they know their turn will be next! If I really hated it, I could teach them to be quiet when I leave with another dog.
When It’s Appropriate To Train Them TOGETHER
Is it EVER a good idea to train your dogs together?
Yes and no.
No, I cannot effectively teach them something NEW when I have more than one.
Yes, I can put them together once they have learned the behavior and understand what I want and then I can ask them to perform the behavior together. I often take all 3 dogs for a walk, but I taught them leash manners and heel separately!
Some people ask me if they can use their dogs AGAINST each other in training, to speed it along.
Hahaha YES!!! Let me explain.
Dogs often get to a place in their training where it is almost as if they challenge you to “Make Them” perform for you; and this is when I like to bring in another dog. First I must know that they understand the behavior but are simply choosing not to perform it for me!
Then I bring in dog number 2 (who needs to know the command) and ask them to do it for me, and if he does he gets jackpotted and a whirlwind of praise and affection (provided there will be no dog fight instigated over this).
When I trained Service Dogs they all had to learn to retrieve and retrieve basically anything including metal, which tastes icky. And, so when they decided they really didn’t like that item and would not do it I would bring in NIX. He would do anything for a cookie and he would immediately retrieve the item and give it to me and I would very blatantly give him a HUGE treat and love on him for compliance while ignoring the other dog.
I would then have him do it a few more times until the other dog was frustrated and leaping for the fallen item. Problem solved!!! This almost always made these obstinate dogs decide they wanted to work for me!
Sometimes you just need to take a step back and look at it from their point of view and understand how much individual attention they need!
Once you do that, your dog training gets so much easier!
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7 Reasons Why Your Dog “Kisses” You
If you enjoy kissing, hugging, and just generally snuggling your dog, you’re not alone!
It’s very common for humans to express their affection for one another with smooches and squeezes. And there’s nothing quite as wonderful as having your favorite canine furball snuggled up in your arms while you’re watching television or just relaxing on the couch.
But while we humans ENJOY expressing our affection with kisses…
… It’s important to take a step back and observe your dog:
Does your dog ENJOY being kissed and hugged?
When he licks you, is he expressing his affection for you?
Or is he perhaps communicating something else?
7 Reasons Why Dogs “Kiss” You
Reason #1: Instinct
First and foremost, it’s important to recognize that dogs who lick each other (and humans) are often doing so out of instinct.
You can TEACH a dog to “kiss” as a show of affection.
(Or, at least, kiss to receive positive attention from you.)
But it’s essential to understand the licking we interpret as “kisses” from our dogs could be fulfilling a wide range of purposes.
Reason #2: Learning About Their Environment
Similar to sniffing, dogs learn about their environment through licking. Whether it’s to gather more information about where you’ve been without him or to enjoy a taste of what you had for lunch off your fingers, dogs lick to explore and understand.
Reason #3: Greeting Between Dogs
Dogs will lick one another as a form of greeting.
Frequently you’ll see the dog who is more submissive showing deference to the more dominant dog trough licking.
It’s another way of demonstrating their submission.
So when your dog is licking you, he may be showing his deference to you.
Reason #4: Sign Of Affection Between Dogs
Yes, dogs ALSO lick one another to demonstrate affection…
So YES, there’s an argument to be made that your dog is KISSING you, too!
Just be cautious because, as you can see, dog kisses are more complex forms of communication than many people understand…
… If you misinterpret a dog’s body language and lean in to kiss the top of his head or cheek, you could be setting yourself up for a bite!
Reason #5: Prevent A Fight
A submissive dog might lick a more dominant dog to de-escalate a situation and prevent a fight.
If the dog is particularly stressed, the licking may indicate a level of discomfort and anxiety that could lead to a BITE.
This is another reason not to let children hug or kiss other people’s dogs. Or, perhaps, even your own family dog!
Reason #6: For Pleasure
Licking is a pleasurable activity for dogs; endorphins are released.
This is why some dogs develop impulse control issues around licking and become obsessed with repetitive licking.
(If you need help curbing this nuisance behavior, check out Impulse Control, which deals with compulsive licking, among other things like barking, chewing, jumping, etc.)
Reason #7: A Sign Of Stress
Licking can be a sign of stress …
By licking you, your dog is trying to “de-escalate” a situation.
Pay close attention to other body language cues, because if your dog’s boundaries pushed any further, the situation could escalate to shows of aggression.
If the dog is particularly submissive, it could escalate quickly to a BITE.
Because the dog is warning you to BACK OFF.
What Does Your Dog THINK When You Kiss Him?
As you can see…
… Licking as a form of communication between dogs can be more complicated than expressing simple affection.
That’s why, especially with strange or less familiar dogs, offering hugs and kisses isn’t a good idea.
And children should be taught to NEVER hug or kiss dogs.
Even the dogs we live with may not enjoy this kind of attention…
Or TOO MUCH of this kind of attention.
A child can easily miss the warning signs when a dog’s boundaries are pushed too far, and the family pet who often accepts kisses from YOU may suddenly turn and nip or BITE a child who they view as inferior to them.
Some dogs will ALWAYS jockey for pack position in a family home, especially with small children.
Our children could be one hug away from a bite to the face if it turns out we’re misreading our dogs.
Can Dogs Be Taught To Enjoy Hugs & Kisses?
Yes, some dogs—raised by your family, from puppyhood—can be taught to see giving and receiving kisses as a positive show of affection.
But just a children’s temperaments are different, some are shy while others are more extrovert, some are more outgoing while others hang back, dogs are different too.
Breed traits combined with individual personality traits mean that some dogs will NEVER enjoy receiving kisses and hugs, because they view it as a show of dominance.
Dogs adopted as adults from rescues or even other homes should be handled with care…
Approach with caution until you’re certain the dog ENJOYS these displays of affection from you.
Certainly, never allow a CHILD to hug or kiss your adult adopted/rescue.
(You can never know the history.)
But of course, dogs are smart!
And they can learn from your positive feedback that you enjoy their licks and kisses, and they can learn to do this to get positive attention and affection from you.
If you’ve raised a dog from a puppy, he’s more likely to be in tune with your kisses and enjoy them.
Older, adopted dogs may have trust issues—and triggers—that make kissing and hugging them riskier.
Again: approach adopted dogs more carefully and be observant.
Don’t allow children to risk a bite. And certainly, avoid allowing people and children from outside your home to hug and kiss your dog.
Safety first!
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Scent Work: Training Your Dog To Track
Dogs are amazing! They have amazing noses and the ability to detect or use scent. A dog’s nose is 100,000 times better than yours! Even your pup has this amazing ability.
And scent work can be very rewarding for dogs!
So, let us talk about getting started on how to teach your dog to track! Because any dog can be taught this skill… even if your dog doesn’t know much basic obedience yet!
German Shepherd, Blood Hound, Belgian Malinois, Dachshund, Shih Tzu… breed doesn’t matter.
My experience comes from both teaching Service Dogs how to find lost items (like their owner’s dropped or missing cell phone or the remote) and it also comes from learning from seasoned and skilled trainers who trialed and titled in Schutzhund. And, it comes from going to classes taught by expert police dog trainers and others whose jobs insist on good tracking! I have taken a bit from all of these experiences to best teach my dogs. taken a bit from all of these experiences to best teach my dogs.
The American Kennel Club also offers titles in tracking for dog training. And your dog doesn’t have to be a German Shepherd to play this game or get a title. Even mixed breeds of all shapes and sizes and ages can engage.
How To Start Training Your Dog To Track
I have worked with some amazing tracking and scent detection trainers! You should see what goes into having an explosives or a drug detection dog! It is pretty easy if you are willing to put in the time for how to teach your dog to track.
Thankfully, tracking is slightly less tedious for owner and dog!
Personally, I like to start by teaching my dog that he has a nose.
Yes, that’s right, you need to teach your dog he has a nose! It sounds ridiculous, even as I type it! But just because he has the ability doesn’t mean he knows how to use it or that he knows how to control it.
I have many owners that tell me their dog already gives them eye contact (since one of my big things is teaching eye contact on command), but as I say, if you can’t control it; why does it matter? That is like saying my dog “sits”… but if he doesn’t “sit” on command, what use is it for you as an owner? NONE
So, let’s teach him!
Supplies You’re Going To Need
Low salt, no butter popcorn or air-popped popcorn as a treat
Cans of sardines for ultimate treats
Liver treats or other good smelling treats
A 6-foot leash
A 10-foot leash or 25-foot leash
Buckle collar
A squirt bottle
Distilled water
Rubber boots (these aren’t 100% necessary) but when you begin laying tracks for your dog in the morning you will appreciate your feet not getting wet!
A few lawn flags
A crate (will be best)!
The First Steps… Teaching Your Dog He Has A Nose
I prefer to begin training with popcorn as a treat! I mean, who doesn’t physically and emotionally get stimulated by the smell of popcorn? Personally, I like an air popper. I can pop, popcorn with 0 salt or butter because neither are good for your dog! So, if you do use microwave, then use low salt no butter. These make better treats.
First, I toss a piece that my dog can see and I say “find it” insert whatever command you want…. Track, find, search or whatever you like. He sees it, easily, which is another reason I prefer popcorn and gobbles it down. We do this a few times. He associates “search” with popcorn and a snack and seeing me toss it! It’s fun! There is literally 0 negatives to what we are doing. We do this many times, to build a good foundation.
When I say “find it” he begins looking for his treat, this is what I want! This will help you train your dog for the eventual behavior.
Next, I distract him and toss a treat behind me (don’t make it difficult to find) that he can’t see, and I ask him to “find it”. At first, he is confused, because he can’t see you toss the popcorn but he soldiers on and looks and sniffs because he has associated popcorn with the command, until he is successful. This begins his journey into using his nose and not his eyes.
Up until now he has used his nose, but he hasn’t really learned how to use it on cue or on command.
He hasn’t really learned to develop his ability to control his nose or use it for training!
Next Steps… Increasing The Challenge
So the next step is to make it more and more challenging…
Often, I use a 6-foot leash in the house, so that I can control where he is and make sure he doesn’t see where I am tossing the popcorn. Again, this is 100% positive; it is nothing but a fun game for your dog so of course he is going to be excited to play whenever you ask him to engage in further training! A leash gives you better control and also desensitizes him to a leash indoors it also helps you engage him when he is distracted. Because distractions are likely to happen outside as well.
Any dog owner can play this game and it is the foundation to all of my scent work. You can train your dog this way! It’s fun!
How to Start Training Your Dog To Track HUMAN Footsteps
This next section is going to sound “odd” to you at first, but I promise it works.
Dozens of years ago, I was at the week worth of lectures put on by the Association of Professional Dog Trainers (APDT)
I have always had an affinity for police dogs and working dogs in particular and the training it involves. One of my opportunities was learning from a great trainer named Steve White, He was continually seeing problems with police dogs being able to search for human scent on hard pavement. Grass is easy, but tracking a missing child or a criminal or any human scent over hard surfaces is difficult. These surfaces don’t hold scent for very long, like grass does.
The action of the human breaking the strands of grass, adds to the scent for your dog! Don’t worry, I am not going to expect you to train on hard surfaces, you can stick to grass but I wanted to incorporate his methods into my Schutzhund tracking. Any dog owner can teach these tools.
He came up with the idea of “scent in a bottle” (this is why you need the squirt bottle) to help the dog adjust to more difficult surfaces and solidify WHAT he is tracking.
Typically, when teaching or training a dog to track we scratch a track with our feet and add delicious food in each foot step. So, in the dog’s mind; are they learning to track food or are they learning to track human scent? I think it takes them a while to figure that out but if you use “scent in a bottle” you are overwhelming them with a lot of human scent which better helps them to understand what you want and that they aren’t just seeking food.
Preparing To Train With “Scent in a Bottle”
So what I need you to do, is going to sound a little gross to you… but your dog is going to love it! Pick a T-shirt a pair of socks, underwear (ha ha) I don’t care and wear it with no deodorant, which masks your smell of course, and do some yard work or sleep in whatever you choose. The idea, unfortunately, is to get a bit stinky so your dog will easily recognize your human scent from others. Don’t go crazy! But your dog needs some real human scent to help him appreciate what you are about to try and teach him.
Once your item is stinky enough, put it in distilled water. Water from the faucet has some chemicals and fluoride in some countries and other things that will break down your scent. Then ring it, and put it in a squirt bottle.
We will spray our shoes prior to each track or training session, in the beginning. This solidifies that you are communicating better with your dog. Your scent is going to be much more overwhelming to him and he is also going to find food treats!
Take Your Scent Work and Training Outside!
Your dog has already learned how to use his sniffer through finding treats in your home.
Taking It Outside
Next, it is time to take him outside to teach him the first step of actual tracking.
Tracking should be done first thing in the morning, before your dog has breakfast. This is why I recommend rubber boots, otherwise your shoes will get soaked by morning dew. And, they should be truly hungry for this to work well. Remember this is mostly a new skill! New for both of you!
You should crate your dog and prepare to build a “scent box” first.
A “scent box” is a 4×4 or so foot area where you are trying to teach your dog the exact scent you want him sniffing to find.
Take your flag and your boots and your scent in a bottle, treats, and sardines.
Spray your shoes only when you get out to the spot you want to train and place the flag to the very right side of the track. The dog will be on the left so the flag should be on the right. The flag is for YOU to know where your scent box or track has been laid. YOU have to bring your dog to the right place.
Spray your shoes, set your flag in the ground to the right, and begin scratching around with your feet and kicking and trying to lay a box-shaped area of broken grass and scent. At first, you want to place not easily seen treats (no popcorn) this should be challenging into that scent box. Be generous in the beginning! This should be rewarding!!! Don’t make your dog sick but put small cut up hot dogs or pieces of liver every several inches. Once you are done with this process, I want you to JUMP over to the right-hand side away from the box you just laid and walk far around the area.
The reason we do this is so the dog doesn’t immediately follow your scent out of the box without reward. We want to communicate effectively and continue making this fun without confusion, at least to the best of our ability.
Wait about 5 to 10 minutes before getting your dog. Let that scent soak into the ground and mingle with those treats you left. Put a can of sardines in your pocket.
Next, go get your dog out of his crate put his 6 ft leash on and get him really excited! We don’t usually do this in most training, but this is an activity your dog should LOVE. Tap his chest, ask him if he wants to go tracking and get excited with him as you lead on his leash him toward the area.
Take him around to the front of the scent box. Hopefully you can see where you stomped the grass or laid the scent box in the dew. Remember your flag is just to the right of the edge of it.
Have him sit if you can (this is really the only basic obedience he needs), sling his leash between his front legs and behind his right leg. As you do so point toward the ground and give him the command or cue that you have been using. Allow him to pull forward and sniff. Slinging his leash between his front legs helps to keep his head down and the pressure off pulling hard against you. I do NOT like a harness, this puts you too far behind the dog and doesn’t encourage the head being down.
In tracking, we allow controlled pulling on the leash, it is actually what we want. Most training should be controlled with no pulling at all, but you are going to want your dog to move out in front of you during this type of training. You may quietly praise as he finds and eats treats, but stand quietly and allow him to track mostly on his own. If he lifts his head, or sees a distraction quietly point toward the box and give his command again. We want that snout glued into the scent box and slowly discovering treats. Don’t get too excited at this point; this will draw his face out of the scent. Just allow him to methodically search.
Once you are fairly certain he has found most of the treats, open the can of sardines and give it as a final reward. We use sardines because they are smelly and they are a very high reward. Pat his ribs and praise him and then lead him back inside. Put up your boots and your scent in a bottle.
Do this for at least a week, and try to do it daily.
Laying Your First Real Track
I want to teach your dog to track from footstep to footstep with his nose deep in the track. Air scenting is not as challenging or fun for either of you! Air scenting also means your dog is much more likely to pull because he is much less controlled or methodical.
Begin by picking an object in front of you that you can line up straight with, being STRAIGHT is crucial. So pick a tree, a fence post, a bench. We are only going to lay a short straight track of about 20 feet. Be sure you have 2 flags.
Begin the process as described above, laying your scent box. Put that flag to the right and move to the middle of the box and find that object you are going to move toward. Begin dragging your feet and moving in a straight path towards it. In each footstep, lay a treat. One in the left foot step and one in the right foot step; so about every foot there will be a treat on one side or another. Drag and stomp at first to get that scent in that track, this is your dog’s first track!
When you reach approximately 20 feet drop the can of sardines and place the flag right behind it. This flag is to help orient you.
Now, jump off the track; walk around and wait your 5 to 10 minutes for that scent to settle into the track.
Go get your dog, get him excited and follow what you have been doing with the scent box. Sling that leash under his front legs! Once he has found the treats, make sure your dog is directly in front of that straight patch and give the command to search again. If his head comes up or there is a distraction quietly point to the track and let his nose do the work. Remember he will be going back and forth a bit now from footstep to footstep.
Let his nose do the work. You can’t really teach him this, you can only support him. If his head moves off of the track, stop moving completely and wait for a few moments, if he doesn’t engage on his own slowly point to the ground and give the command again. Don’t let him move much further in front of you than his body length at first. This way you can slowly stop and help him, if he needs it. But please try to let him work it out on his own.
When he gets to the end, praise and pat his sides again! This should be a fun process!
Continue To Increase The Level Of Difficulty
Keep things simple for a long time! Train like this for weeks before trying an added difficulty level and only try one at a time.
Typically, I move to longer straight tracks 30 feet, 40 feet, etc.
Let him move out to the end of his 6-foot leash… so about 5.5 feet in front of you. Allow him to do more problem-solving. If you like this sport typically the dog will track 10 feet or more in front of you.
Then, I do more walking and less dragging of my feet. After several weeks he should have gotten the idea.
Next less treats in the scent box.
Then, I stagger the treats a little further on the track, for example instead of every foot, every 2 feet etc.
You can also begin to age the track longer up to 20 or 30 minutes.
Then, begin to drop the amount of scent in a bottle and just use your regular boots.
If you enjoy this article and this process I let us know and I can update you on how to do corners and later add articles to your track to have your dog indicate. But for now keep your tracks straight.
If you move too quickly, you will both get frustrated but you will have trouble as a human understanding what is confusing him because you don’t have his nose
This can be time-consuming but this is a great behavior to teach and have in and under your control! And, it can become more and more difficult as time progresses. And you can even title him through the American Kennel Club.
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Help! My Dog Hates My Husband!
I get this question more often than you would actually believe!
And I must be honest it isn’t always the “husband” sometimes it is the “wife” or even the kids or everyone “else” in the family. Often I think it is the husband or the male because they tend to be slightly less nurturing than the woman in the relationship, but it certainly works both ways!
The problem is that these dogs can ruin relationships.
They can also end up in shelters or die because of their abusive relationships.
You see, THEY are the abusers.
They often sit in the lap of their “chosen” (person) and growl, hackle, and threaten to bite anyone who might trespass or get anywhere near.
Imagine having a child or an “X” sitting on your lap and anytime another person came up to hug you, sit next to you, or talk to you (including other family) they flashed a switchblade. Now imagine they chased the person away with the switchblade, or even lightly cut them.
I think that would be a problem, don’t you?
And, most people would never accept this behavior from another person or child right? The authorities would be called and the person removed and undoubtedly prosecuted.
Yet, owners put up with this from their beloved pets.
Both the one being “protected” or possessed and the person or people being abused act like it is no big deal when it comes from something with fur and teeth (instead of a switchblade).
You see, most often the person whose lap it is thought the dog is “protecting them” or the other person thinks the dog is “protecting the spouse” but actually the dog is guarding what he considers a “resource” or possessing the person (not nearly as fairytale-like as people like to think) for more on that click here.
Step One: Stop Making Excuses
This leads straight into step one, which is to stop vindicating the behavior, making excuses or enabling the dog.
Start seeing him for what he is; an abuser! Remember the analogy with the switchblade…
You can’t make a true change if you’re empowering, enabling, and making excuses for the behavior.
And, if you don’t make true change you might lose your family and your dog might lose his life.
What will happen if the wrong person or child approaches you and this dog? Bites often lead to euthanasia!
So even if you aren’t making this hard decision to change for your family; make it for your dog who might die if you allow this behavior to continue.
Step Two: Take Away Privileges
Life and amenities are a privilege, treat them as such.
If your child breaks a rule or takes advantage of you and your spouse what happens?
I hope that you say he/she loses a privilege.
The same rules should apply to dogs, especially those who are having aggression issues.
And, yes, threatening to bite your family and spouse is aggression! Embrace it and call it what it is (this goes back to enabling and not making excuses). If your neighbor’s dog was trying to bite YOU, you would call it aggression, yes?
If the aggression is severe and anyone is afraid of being severely bitten or there are young children involved a veterinary behaviorist should be involved. For more on that click here
Provided That You Are Not Worried About A Bite, Continue Reading:
Aggressive dogs, those who are looking to possess you or threatening someone who approaches should NOT be allowed on furniture.
Being on the bed is a privilege.
Being on the couch is a privilege.
Being in your lap is a privilege!
And, dogs who bite, growl, hackle, bark or threaten people should not get these privileges. Period! I am all for well behaved dogs to be on the furniture, but I will be the first to say that dogs with aggression issues should never get this privilege; it gives them “little man or little dog syndrome” and plays into their idea that they should rule the house or the world.
Step Three: The Person Being “Possessed” Needs To Separate Themselves
The person that these dogs idolize or “possess” should back off in their lives!
This is probably one of the hardest things for everyone involved.
For some reason, people who are seemingly the “apple of these dogs’ eyes” have a really hard time giving that up.
But it is critical!
This person needs to step back, and the other person (the person that has been bullied) needs to step up.
The loved person needs to hardly interact with the dog at all, and the hated person needs to be in charge of all things essential and all things fun.
The Dog Must Be Forced To Interact & Depend On The Person They Dislike
It would stand to reason if you had to see the same people every day, or had to live with them chances are they would grow on you over time. Even if you didn’t like them, you would find something to like about them (okay, not always but mostly).
But sometimes dogs bond to ONE PERSON and they feel like they don’t need anyone or anything else in their lives.
We must convince them that they are wrong.
The person who is hated must feed the dog, they must walk the dog, they should try to engage in play with the dog; all while the other person mostly ignores the dog.
You see even if the other person does all of these things and the person the dog loves still cuddles and loves on the dog, the dog can still see no real need for the other person.
In order for a real bond to occur between the once detested person and the dog, the person the dog seemingly loves or possesses must kind of break ties.
It doesn’t mean FOREVER but the person needs to ignore the dog almost completely.
Respect The Need For A Bond To Form–Let It Happen
Let me paint a picture for you.
I used to train Service Dogs.
I worked for several organizations, but one particular organization had a very high success rate and I believe I know why.
This organization did not allow any of the other family member to interact with the new Service Dog, really at all (unless the disabled person required it for maintenance like baths, nail trims, etc.), for at least a month.
You see, if the dog went home with their new partner and discovered that the “mom” always fed, petted, and loved on the dog while never giving commands, who would the dog bond to, right? The disabled partner was requiring work and effort from the dog for treats and affection. They were making the dog work.
By not allowing the other family members to interact with the dog, the dog was given the opportunity to bond to the person that would be their forever partner and the family was given time to understand the need for this bond and respect it.
I believe the same must happen with these possessive pets.
They have to learn to NEED the other person in the home or relationship.
They need to be fed, they need to be watered, they need to be walked and they need to be trained and interacted with; if this is only coming from one source it stands to reason that the person now doing this would become more important.
The good news for those of you that might be panicking that YOUR dog will never love YOU again is that this is a silly thought. Of course he will. Once you step back in and do the occasional cuddle after he has bonded with the other person, he will still love you! He will still undoubtedly be YOUR dog but in order to be a happy family he has to learn to love other people!
Step Four: Train The Dog
I say it in all my articles but it is true!
Obedience is also important.
It is important to be able to control these dogs.
It is crucial to be able to give them commands that they will obey.
You should not have to feel that you are at the whim of a dog!
If the dog shows aggression, you should be able to give a command and have the dog comply!
I feel that the person who is disliked should take a class with the dog. Not the old fashioned: “Yank Them and Make Them” class but a fun positive reinforcement class. A class where they can have fun and build a bond, will change their relationship!
Because good obedience should be fun and rewarding for everyone involved!
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My Dog Would Never Bite… And Other Lies.
I have been a dog trainer for over twenty-five years now…
Yikes, I feel old saying that! But it’s true…
And I mention this because I have to admit: what I believed was true about dog aggression at 20 versus 45 years of age has changed… a LOT!
I have trained police dogs… worked in a bite suit… and seen the purest forms of dog aggression. With so much experience that I now see the very subtle changes in a dog’s countenance and behavior right before he bites.
So much that the hairs on the back of my neck stand up when I see certain changes in a dog’s behavior…
… Changes that my coworkers in veterinary medicine never notice.
I remember about a year ago, a two-year-old Cane Corso came to our clinic. I was the “room tech” so I greeted him and his mom, put them in a room, and discussed what he was due for that year. The dog was admittedly nervous, sitting in his mom’s lap, but he seemed alright.
He was due for a heartworm test. A heartworm test requires a tiny blood sample and most owners don’t want to watch you poke their dog in the jugular with a needle.
So I took the dog, on leash, to the back treatment area to meet one of my coworkers.
As I put him into a “sit” and my coworker got on her knees to draw his blood, the hairs on the back of my neck stood up.
There was a slight change in his behavior, he stiffened.
Doesn’t sound like much, but it can be a telling warning sign.
I suggested a muzzle, to which a few of my coworkers scoffed. But I was always a better safe than sorry tech.
He did okay, he survived; I took him back to the room and his “mom”.
But when the vet entered the room he lunged and tried to bite her face.
Thankfully, I was her technician and already didn’t trust the dog and was prepared for aggression.
Point of the story? Signs of aggression aren’t always easily spotted until the aggressive behavior turns into a dangerous dog bite.
Even after the lunging episode at the vet and the near bite, the owner was in denial. She didn’t want her dogs muzzled (which I completely don’t understand since a muzzle is better than a reported dog bite and a mauling) and she was praising and cooing to her dog as he growled and snarled when he got his vaccines.
Listen To What Your Dog Is Telling You… Before He BITES!
At this stage in my career, I rarely pull punches. At 20 years of age, I would have sugar-coated to this dog’s owner that perhaps they could use some training with this dog and perhaps she shouldn’t reward him while he is growling.
At 45 years of age, I will tell you that this dog is going to bite someone, badly, and likely need euthanasia if the owner doesn’t get the aggression and the fear under control.
People often start a conversation off with:
“Don’t worry… He would never actually bite…”
“He is sweet at home.”
“He has never acted like that…”
“He was a rescue…”
… These are some of my first indicators that the dog has AGGRESSION ISSUES!
Let us be honest.
If you find yourself making excuses that sound like these… you’re in denial… lying to yourself.
Nobody Wants To Admit Their Dog Is AGGRESSIVE…
Nobody wants to have the “bad dog” …
… Or the dog that needs a muzzle … or the dog with aggression issues.
But just because your dog has “never bitten” doesn’t mean he never will. And if you’re already making excuses for borderline behaviors that are making you NERVOUS around your dog… Or, you’re brushing off or soothing other people’s concerns about your dog…
… I must warn you:
You’re risking the safety and lives of other people and kids.
You’re risking the safety and lives of other dogs.
And you’re the life of YOUR DOG!
(Who may be euthanized if he bites, attacks, or mauls someone.)
It is always better to err on the side of caution than to have a dog bite or maul a human or another dog.
It’s Always Better To Be SAFE Than SORRY…
At one clinic I worked at; one of our technicians almost got bit in the face. She was young and new as a veterinary technician and she was down on her knees in front of an aggressive dog (something I rarely if ever do without a muzzle). Thankfully, as the dog lunged for her face, the owner intervened and blocked the attack with his arm. The dog had never bitten before, but left the owner with huge gashes.
Even though the dog bit his OWNER… the bite had to be reported… the dog quarantined… and the dog was added to the “dangerous dogs” list.
It would have been so much easier to just have the owner muzzle the dog.
People get so wrapped up in what other people may think of them, or their dog. They don’t want us to judge them or to blame them, or to hate their dog.
The truth is that what other people think literally doesn’t matter at all. People tend to be a judgmental and will judge you for the shoes that you wear or the car that you drive, so why would you care about how they feel about your dog?
Stop Caring What Others Think And Protect Your Dog
We need to stop caring what others think and protect ourselves and our dogs.
If your dog is fearful… skittish… anxious…. or aggressive… teach your dog to HAPPILY wear a muzzle.
Keep your dog from putting his life on the line. Keep him from having a true aggressive experience.
I don’t care if he has never bitten anyone before. I understand that you love him and 90% of the time he is a great companion. No dog is aggressive 100% of the time. Most dogs are only sporadically aggressive. Most often, he is your best friend.
But believe him when he warns you.
The Warning Signs: Your Dog Is Getting Ready To Bite
Staring/Hard Eyes: Dogs don’t usually stare unless they are stimulated or overstimulated. When your dog sees a squirrel, he likely stares because of prey drive. His eyes lock on and he stares at his prey. Equally, when a dog stares at another dog or a human, his pupils will often grow and harden. Instead of sweet squishy face, his countenance changes.
Freezing/Stiffening: His countenance changes and then his body freezes or stiffens waiting for impending attack. Both of these warning signs are often ignored by owners and even those in the field. But, these are usually the first signs that make most of us on a primary and instinctual level take note or feel uneasy. I remember reading a book called “The Gift of Fear” in which the author begs you to listen to that prehistoric part of your brain that is telling you something is wrong. Don’t get on the elevator with a person if your amygdala is telling you not to. Who cares what people think. Listen to your instincts, don’t push that aside and wait for a serious injury.
Wide eyes (a.k.a. “whale eyes”): The “whale eye” is a real thing. I first heard the term maybe 20 years ago from a trainer and expert in the dog bite field named Sue Sternberg. She studied dogs in shelters and performed temperament tests in order to adopt out adoptable dogs while euthanizing those with aggression. As she explained; right before a dog bites he often looks to the side so that you can see the whites of his eyes (whale eye). Nothing showed me this phenomenon quite as clearly as being in a dog bite suit. Over and over, I could see the dogs look to the side and then bite. It is an interesting phenomenon for sure. So, when I see the whites of a dog’s eyes, I know I am moments away from an actual bite. But how many people know that?
Hackles up/Growling/Barking/Lunging/Hiding/Snarling: These are all indicators that your dog is uncomfortable! He is trying to communicate this to you with his body language. By ignoring or rationalizing these behaviors … or worse, making excuses… you are setting him up for a BIGGER SHOW of aggression — potentially a bite! These signs tell us your dog is uncomfortable and emotionally triggered.
Don’t Let It Get This Far!
Your dog doesn’t have the ability to understand the repercussions of his aggressive behavior.
He is simply reacting, trying to stop behavior he finds stressful or triggering. And maybe, he’s already received positive reinforcement for these aggressive behaviors. He’s learned, for example, if he growls when someone tries to pet him, the person backs away. Or if he barks, people jump back.
He sees these “smaller” acts of aggression getting results.
So it’s only a matter of time before he escalates to a BIGGER SHOW of aggression… when people or dogs don’t respond as he expects to the smaller acts of aggression.
Lunging… biting… mauling. That’s what’s next.
Will you let it get that far? Or will you act to prevent aggressive behaviors now?
The 8 Types Of Dog Aggression
When we talk about aggression or aggressive behavior we often talk about Fight or Flight. When challenged will you stand and fight or will you give up or run? What happens if you run but can’t get away or your aggressor continues the aggressive behavior? Will you resort to violence and fighting then?
Aggression training has a few vital components that are important to understand!
#1 – Forward Aggression
Forward aggression is outright aggression or confident aggression. This has no components of fear aggression.
When the dog is aggressive it is making a conscious and bold choice toward the behavior. When I think about this kind of aggression I picture the perfect police or protection dog (Belgian Malinois or German Shepherd). They assess the situation and are confident in their aggression. And, although this is a dangerous dog, this kind of aggression is fairly rare without extreme training or having something wrong physically (think seizure disorder) and genetic conditions.
Occasionally I hear from dog owners or young puppy owners whose puppies are showing extreme and confident aggression at a very young age. This is not normal, and usually means there is something wrong genetically or mentally. This is when I often recommend the help or assistance of a board-certified veterinary behaviorist. Why? Because a veterinary behaviorist can help not only with behavior modification training but they can also prescribe medications.
Be aware, anyone can call themselves a “behaviorist”, only seek those with a veterinary degree and who went to school for several more years to attain. Often, veterinary behaviorists then utilize good positive professional dog trainer to help with that behavior modification schedule.
#2 – Prey Aggression
Prey aggression is exactly as it sounds. This is the desire to chase and hunt. Again, this is a very forward behavior.
Most dogs will exhibit SOME form of predatory behavior… but some dogs have MORE prey drive than others.
(Especially some working breeds.)
Extreme predatory behavior and prey drive can be hard to control. There’s an old saying: “Once a dog tastes blood, you will never break him from killing.” True or not, the challenge is that chasing and killing other animals is FUN for many dogs, due to their predatory instincts.
When we train police dogs and protection dogs, we train them mostly by building their prey drive, letting them chase and bite and then building their confidence. We often begin this training at anywhere from 6 to 8 weeks of age. We allow them to win and conquer and build that confidence so that they believe they can win any war against human aggression even when conflict arises, they are taught how to battle. We also work with their feelings of “possession” or possession aggression. Once they have bitten the assailant, we want them to hang on and possess that person. We teach them to possess and defend what they win.
Essentially these dogs are taught and molded toward this forward aggression. These are ALL of the things you want to avoid with pet dog training!
#3 – Possession Aggression
Possession aggression is often a more forward type of aggression. It can be genetic, as I have seen 6-week-old puppies with severe aggressive possessive behaviors that can only be explained by genetics.
But often this dog behavior arises from some conflict with the dog owner. The dog or puppy, steals something that he should not have and the owner chases him down and snatches it out of his mouth. The behavior also often comes with a reprimand verbally and sometimes often physically. These encounters fill the dominant dog or puppy with hostility and anger.
Imagine going to school every day and having the school bully hit you in the face and take your dessert. If you were submissive, you would give it up. But if you were confident and a little bit dominant you might decide to fight. Day after day you are filled with rage until one day you stand up for yourself and prepare to fight.
This is how your puppy or dog feels when you snatch “his things or the things that he wants.” And, then if he snarls or growls, most dog owners will stop their forward behavior. This teaches the dog that their aggressive behavior keeps that conflict away and they win!
Winning brings confidence, and confidence backed by aggression in dogs often brings more severe aggression the next time.
Keep the dog on leash and teach him appropriately how to give up things and exchange.
#4 – Territorial Aggression
Dogs who are more dominant in nature will often exhibit guarding behaviors… and be territorial about their property, their people, and objects/items they perceive as belonging to them.
This form of aggression can be both FORWARD and DEFENSIVE.
But most often it is blatant with no component of fear. This dog will bite you for coming on his property or coming in his home. He may even bite you for touching or coming near his owner. He sees these things as HIS THINGS, to be defended.
Plus, it’s important to be aware that guarding behaviors can be FUN for dogs. It breaks boredom and gives them something “fun” to do–which can make it DANGEROUS as it becomes a habit or even an addiction in some cases.
#5 – Defensive Aggression
Defensive aggression comes from that feeling of “flight” or getting away. Your dog is feeling afraid and often his inability to get away from the situation brings out aggression. This, in my opinion, is the most dangerous form of aggression because it is hard to know where the dog’s confidence lies and where his breaking point lies.
#6 – Fear Aggression
Fear aggression is very difficult for dog owners. Most want to deny it is happening at all, some want to make excuses (like he was abused), or you have the dog owners who ignorantly praise and making “comforting” noises at dogs who are exhibiting fear aggression.
This inadvertent praise raises the dog’s confidence with his fear and his aggression.
Instead of teaching true confidence or working on problems, the dog becomes complacent and contented by his own aggression and aggressive displays.
We often see this in veterinary medicine! The dog is crawled up in the owner’s lap, trying to get away, growling and snarling, sometimes lunging then retreating; all while the owner pets the dog and tells him “It’s okay, it’s okay” and describing what a tough life he is lead.
And if a muzzle is recommended to keep everyone safe this dog owner is horrified.
Yes, aggression, especially fear aggression, can be rewarded by an ignorant or even calculated dog owner.
Some dog owners, intentionally reward defensive dog aggression whenever the dog hears a sound outside or someone comes to the door. They want a “protective” dog, but don’t realize the dog is barking because he is fearful and unsure; and by rewarding that they are creating an unpredictable monster.
I would much rather deal with a forwardly aggressive dog because I can clearly read his terms. Fearful or defensive dogs are almost impossible to accurately read because they are unpredictable, even to themselves. I have seen fearful dogs bite people and then look amazed and horrified by their actions.
This kind of aggression needs to be recognized and dealt with as soon as possible so that owners can encourage confidence instead of fear.
#7 – Reactivity Aggression
Reactivity is a learned behavior that stems from fear and discomfort.
Often, ignorant dog owners teach their dogs these behaviors by both ignoring or trying to correct these fearful behaviors.
Let us first talk about ignoring the behavior. When your dog sees another dog and becomes slightly aggressive or reactive and you do nothing, this defensive behavior grows as a form of displaced confidence. The next time he sees a dog or a person and you do nothing this displaced confidence that came from a place of fear, well, it grows.
Eventually, it is out of hand and can no longer be controlled.
At the point that most dog owners seek help for dog aggressive behaviors their behavior have spiraled out of control and are just then being addressed by the dog owner who has allowed these behaviors to flourish.
On the other hand, some owners try to correct this behavior… The dog sees another dog and doesn’t know what to do, so maybe he barks or growls. The dog owner swiftly reels in the dog with a tight leash, possibly yells or physically disciplines the dog to stop the behavior. What happens is the nervous dog, unsure of himself around this other dog, feels the physical and emotional pain of discipline. He is confused. He associates the correction with the other dog… and this further reinforces his fears and uncertainty about other dogs.
The next time the dog encounters another dog, he’s once again unsure of himself… the dog owner confirms these fears again with a physical correction… and the downhill spiral continues, with the dog owner unwittingly making the aggression worse.
So What’s A Concerned Dog Owner Supposed To Do?
Now let’s have an honest conversation …
… If your dog shows any degree of aggression, what can you do about it?
Even if you suspect that you’ve inadvertently made the problem WORSE?
The MOST IMPORTANT thing I can tell you is this:
Don’t make excuses. Don’t ignore the problem.
Your dog doesn’t get a free pass to behave aggressively because he’s a rescue… he was abused… he had a bad experience…
Whatever happened, wherever he came from, there are to be no more excuses.
His present behavior, today, matters. His future with you matters.
Live in the present, deal with the aggression issues he’s exhibiting TODAY.
STEP #1 – Be the person in your dog’s world who deals with all things scary.
Stop allowing him to feel in charge of everything in his environment. Never make your dog feel like it’s his duty to defend or protect your family or property. Let your dog see that he can rely on YOU to deal with everything scary. People ask me: aren’t I afraid something may happen to me or someone may break into my house? NO, ABSOLUTELY NOT!!! If something were to happen and I was scared, truly scared, I know that my dogs would step up and deal…. But those are the contingencies.
STEP #2 – Teach your dog CONFIDENCE!
Teach CONFIDENCE!!!! We want confident and independent children, don’t we? So why then are we fostering fear in our dogs?
Confident dogs are crucial. If you see a fear don’t ignore it or keep him from it. I can’t believe how many owners come to me saying their dog fears the clicker. And, let me tell you, that was me in the beginning of my career. I was training service dogs taken from shelters, I got a dog and she was terrified of the clicker…
I went to the “powers that be” of the organization and they basically told me “if she couldn’t get over the sound of the clicker, then she couldn’t be a service dog” I was horrified at first! How could they be so uncaring, then I realized they were right… imagine the sounds you hear in public… waaaaaay worse than a click.
So, I clicked until she could care less. In the beginning, it sent her running…. But after I did it nearly constantly while I watched TV etc. she got over it. She learned to be successful and she was placed! It taught me to reevaluate a dog’s fears.
STEP #3 – Make & Teach Eye Contact
Know what else gives dogs confidence? EYE CONTACT!!!! Eye contact and focus gives an under-confident dog a coping mechanism.
I currently own an under-confident dog, my Malinois. He is also not necessarily friendly. So I have taught him to give me eye contact and focus when he is nervous. If he does so, I will reward him heavily and valiantly for making a good choice.
He was honored a few years ago for being one of the fastest swimming dogs in North America. If you look at him you can’t see his under confidence because he gets his confidence from me. He gives me eye contact and his own focus in trials such as this, and it has become his coping mechanism.
I have told this story before, but I’m a runner … And while running with me, my dogs can’t pull but they don’t have to be in perfect heel position; it isn’t rational.
So we were running in the neighborhood when I saw a dad out walking with his double stroller. I knew it was a guy with 2 kids… my dog didn’t.
Apparently, he was scared or at least feeling unsure, because he immediately put himself in the heel position and gave me eye contact and focus!
I instantly knew: my dog didn’t know what the strange-looking contraption was. But I had given him the confidence and coping mechanisms to deal with his insecurity in an appropriate way! Teach your dog good coping mechanisms.
#4 – Be Willing To Admit You Need Help
Working with dogs exhibiting aggression isn’t something you should tackle alone.
If you don’t feel SAFE handling your dog… if you’re AFRAID of your dog… then get a professional involved: a board-certified behavioral specialist. Speak with your local vet, see who they recommend. Ask around before investing any money in training to be certain you’re dealing with a professional who is prepared to help YOU train your dog safely, not a snake oil salesman who will use fear and punishment to dominate your dog FOR YOU — and ultimately make your dog’s fear and aggression issues worse.
If you’re still comfortable handling your dog, and you feel like you’re dealing with more minor aggression and fear issues, then consider checking out our 8-Week “Emotional Recalibration Training (ERT) Program, delivered 100% online, that teaches you to control your dog’s reactive and fear-driven behaviors… so he’s less likely to have an aggressive outburst.
And he’s finally predictably calm and trustworthy around other people and dogs.
Click here to learn more about ERT Training For Aggressive & Fearful Dogs
However, keep in mind this isn’t a quick fix either. You need to be willing to watch the videos we’ll send you, and do the assigned training exercises with your dog.
It comes with a money-back guarantee, and you can try the first 4 weeks for free, but still — you need to do the work if you want to see the results.
But honestly… wouldn’t it be NICE to stop feeling afraid… that your dog is going to bite someone (a child?) or attack another dog? And relax when you’re out in public with your dog? Or having guests over to your house?
Aggressive dogs need to be handled like loaded guns. With care, concern, and the right training and information. The wrong move can have deadly consequences.
The post My Dog Would Never Bite… And Other Lies. appeared first on TheDogTrainingSecret.com.
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True Or False: Dogs Should Wear Sunscreen, Too
True or False… Dogs should wear sunscreen, too.
The ANSWER? It’s true!
Just like humans, dogs are at risk of sunburns.
Dogs are even at risk of getting skin cancer!
And sunburns can exacerbate pre-existing health conditions like autoimmune disorders and dermatitis, making them worse.
So when we head outdoors to enjoy the summer sunshine with our dogs, we need to be aware—they need sun protection, too!
How Do I Know If My Dog Needs Sunscreen?
Any dog with exposed skin would benefit from the protection of sunscreen.
Dogs who are most at risk are those with less hair, light skin, and/or white hair. These include breeds like Chinese Crested and the American Hairless Terrier. As well as Collies, Australian Sheep Dogs, Whippets, Bull Terriers, Dalmatians, French Bulldogs, Boxers, and Greyhounds to name a few.
Again, though, any dog with exposed skin is at risk.
Sunscreen should be applied to the bridge of the nose, skin around the lips, tips of the ears, groin and inner thighs.
Again, these are areas with limited protection from hair that are more exposed to the sun.
How Do I Apply Sunscreen To My Dog?
Common sense goes a long way when applying sunscreen to your dog!
• Obviously apply the sunscreen to areas with exposed skin, and
• Worry less about applying it to areas where your dog’s skin sees limited sun (like the pads of feet or areas where hair is very thick).
Follow the directions provided on the label.
Then, to start, apply a test patch to a small area of your dog’s body, to make sure your dog doesn’t have a reaction. Let the cream sit on the skin long enough to soak in, and watch your dog for any reaction (itching, burning, redness, etc.).
Rinse the sunscreen off immediately if there are issues.
After that, be sure to apply the sunscreen approximately 20 minutes before heading outdoors. And then be sure to reapply it regularly (every 4 hours) and/or after swimming.
How Do I Choose A Sunscreen For My Dog?
Sunscreen is vet recommended for dogs, however, it’s important you choose a brand that has been specially formulated for DOGS.
Your dog may be tempted to lick off the sunscreen…
… So you want to be certain you’re not exposing him to toxic ingredients!
Dog-friendly brands of sunscreen should be:
• FDA-compliant
• Offer SPF protection
• Hypo-allergenic
• Non-toxic
• Contain NO PABA (para-aminobenzoic acid)
• Contain NO zinc oxide
• Unscented
Some popular brands you might consider include:
Epi-Pet Sun Protector Spray For Pets
Click Here To Get It Now
Emmy’s Best Dog Sun Skin Protector Spray
Click Here To Get It Now
Petkin Doggy Sunmist (SPF 15)
Click Here To Get It Now
Handy Hound SnoutScreen (SPF 30)
Click Here To Get It Now
Other Options For Sun Protection
Some dog owners choose to avoid sunscreen entirely, opting for other forms of sun protection like bodysuits, sun hats, and sun goggles.
PlayaPup Dog Sun Protective Shirts
(Comes in a variety of colours, patterns & styles!)
Click Here To Get One Now
QUMY Dog Goggles – Waterproof Pet Sunglasses
Click Here To Get A Pair Now
What If My Dog Accidentally Gets A Sunburn?
Remember that sunscreen isn’t guaranteed to protect your dog from sunburns.
Use common sense, take advantage of shade, and limit overall sun exposure on particularly hot days.
If your dog does get a minor sunburn, keep him out of the sun and apply cool compresses. Aloe vera gel can be applied to help soothe and heal your dog’s sunburn, too.
Check out Organic Aloe Vera Gel by Seven Minerals
(Best-seller on Amazon.com, from Fresh Cut Aloe Plant!)
Click Here To Get More Info Now.
If you suspect your dog may have a more severe sunburn, contact your vet right away. Severe burns may require cortisone treatments.
Again – keep your dog indoors or in the shade during the most intense hours of sun.
The post True Or False: Dogs Should Wear Sunscreen, Too appeared first on TheDogTrainingSecret.com.
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