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Dealing with thick, wavy and unruly hair for men

So many of us are obsessed with the thought of a thin reetch, it is easy to forget that baldness is not a man's only concern when it comes to his barnet: thick, wavy and usually unruly hair can do all the problems , also.

And with a Don King hair day, more than just your appearance can be affected. According to a Yale University study, men who aren't happy with their hair tend to be more confident, self-critical, and less sociable than their well-deserved colleagues. Even the thought of a bad hair day has been shown to dramatically affect self-esteem.

Before you literally pull your hair out, keep in mind that there is no such thing as "normal" when it comes to things on your head – just the hair that you have been treated by accident: hair that is unique to you. And what makes it unique depends on its structure.

Evaluate your hair type

Hair varies in thickness – from 50 microns (a unit of 1 millionth of a meter) for people with fine hair to over 100 microns. The thickness also depends on the number of individual hairs on your head.

How the hair behaves depends on the shape of the individual waves. Asian hair, for example, is often round, lying flat and straight; caucasian hair is slightly oval, which tends to make it fine with varying degrees of waviness; and Afro-Caribbean hair is flat and curved, which gives it its distinctly curly look.

In addition, hair density – how many individual shafts there are on the head – is influenced by its color, with blondes being the least haired and redheads the least.

"Half of the battle learns how to work with the hair you got," said Wendy Lewis, author of Hair Affair. "You may know best how your hair behaves, but making it look healthy, shiny, and manageable can take a little knowledge."

At this (shared) end, this guide is here to help. Whether your mop is wavy, curly, frizzy, thick or just refuses to lie flat, we have a battle plan to defeat any kind of bad hair day.

Dealing with: thick hair

In the same way that it is difficult to sympathize with a billionaire who complains about the price of maintaining his yacht, it is hard to feel pity for a man who complains that his hair is too thick. But if you're that man, a thick reetch can be a constant source of annoyance.

"For thick hair, the main issue is manageability and sheer volume of hair," said Jaymarie Winkler, general manager of the new Ruffians hair salon at Liberty department store in London.

How to style thick hair

In general, slightly shorter hairstyles work best here. "Think about Caesar fringes, buzz cuts, structured plants and short choppy quiffs," says Winkler.

If the hair is particularly thick, ask your hairdresser or stylist to take some of the weight off with special thinning scissors. "This can help if your hair is very thick, but avoid it if your hair is coarse as it becomes carbonated and more complex."

It is also worthwhile for the hair to dry naturally if possible, as blow drying can increase volume and make it look even thicker. If blow drying is important, stick to a cool setting.

What products to use for thick hair

Non-volumizing mousse, on the one hand. Thick hair benefits from styling products that provide hold without adding volume or stickiness, so Winkler suggests stowing on clay or pastes.

According to Paul Morgan, a hairdresser at Jacks of London, a good moisturizing shampoo is also important, as is a decent conditioner. “They will not dry out the hair and keep it in good condition, which is important because when the hair is dry, the cuticle stays [die äußerste Schicht des Haares] open and it will appear even thicker and straw-like. ”

Conditioners also help keep thick hair manageable and result in a sleek and less voluminous look. “Moroccan oil is great for thick hair because it moisturizes and can change texture and soften hair over time,” says Morgan.

Dealing with: wavy hair

Around 40 percent of Caucasian men have slightly wavy hair, and if you're one of them, you're in good company – David Gandy, Orlando Bloom, and Roger Federer are three well-known men who know how to drive the waves.

Like curly hair, the wavy stuff can appear voluminous and tends to react to the weather – whereby the wave is more pronounced in high air humidity or with drizzle in the air. Additional waves can also sprout in places you would rather not have done and become knotted and tangled if your hair is long.

How to style wavy hair

"Instead of a bad thing, wavy hair is in many ways the holy grail of hair types," says Winkler. “Pretty much all styles work, but everything that has been pushed back really shows off that wave. If your hair is thick and wavy, your hairdresser can take out part of the mass with a razor or thinning scissors without risking frizz. ”

Particularly good cuts for guys with wavy hair are the undercut (where the sides and back hold an ultra short with the hair worn long up), the public school side part (where the fringe falls forward) or loose and bridled (think Jon Snow or Harry Styles). Remember: the longer the hair, the more pronounced the wave. So if control is your goal, keep your hair under three inches or so in length.

To tame longer wavy hair that tends to be somewhat unruly, Morgan suggests tying it loose overnight. "In the morning it will have a natural, messy, wavy look – very easy to care for and effortlessly cool."

Which products to use on wavy hair

"I recommend using sea salt or a volume spray to give some oomph before styling with a shiny pomade or styling paste," says Winkler.

You can maximize (and maintain) your waves with hair products designed to define and improve curls and waves, while reducing the crazy scientist look with an anti-frizz serum.

If you really want to wave goodbye, you can always temporarily remove them with the help of a pair of ceramic flat irons. If your cut is particularly short, choose a model with smaller plates, as they offer greater precision – that's the difference between smoldering optics and second-degree burns.

Dealing with: curly hair

"Curly hair is curly because the follicle from which it grows under the scalp is not straight," says celebrity hairdresser and trichologist Guy Parsons. Typically, curly hair is coarser in texture, and the coarser the hair, the less water it holds and therefore it is the dryer.

"It also absorbs light instead of reflecting it, so it doesn't tend to look" shiny "like straighter hair would," says Parsons. "The other downside is that it can become frizzy in wet weather, so it's important to use products that create a protective shield around it."

How to style curly hair

Many people find curly hair care overwhelming and neglect it to the point of the 1980s comedy Scouser ("It's certainly not the easiest hair type to manage," Parsons admits).

You have three options: fight it by cropping it (that's how Justin Timberlake attacks his infamous curly mop above), remove the curls with a relaxing treatment, or – and this is by far the easiest and most authentic option – you can simply make the most of what nature has given you. After all, it's not like there aren't many poster boys for curly hair: think James Franco, Adrian Grenier and Carlos Valderrama. Okay, so maybe not Valderrama, but you have the idea.

"To groom and define curly hair, ask your hairdresser for a flat, layered cut to create a full, curly finish," advises Morgan. "You don't want too much thinning or texturing to take place." A curly undercut (short on the back and on the sides, long and curly at the top) always looks good, as does a curly quiff and hair that has grown to the length of the jaws a la Aiden Turner in Poldark.

Whichever style you choose, make sure you cut or shape it when you're dry. Curly hair is more relaxed when it is wet, jump back a little when it is dry so it is cut this way, guaranteeing the style and length you want.

What products to use on curly hair

"Product selection is critical to curly hair," says Morgan, who recommends a moisturizing shampoo to prevent hair from becoming dry and frizzy, alongside a styling product like Moroccan Oil Molding Cream. "It can be applied to wet hair and, because it's incredibly moisturizing, is perfect for curly hair," he says. "It will help define the curls and give them good hold."

If you are in a knot, take the right tool too. The hair can be tangled with a brush specially designed for thick and curly hair. These have flexible teeth that gently detangle and smooth the cuticles of the hair while minimizing damage. Likewise, drying hair with a hair dryer with a diffuser will help protect the hair and define curls without making them frizzy.

"For a more relaxed, loose look, simply dry the hair with a towel and use a standard hair dryer nozzle or funnel to straighten the hair for a more relaxed curl," says Morgan. "Or if you want to get rid of them, flat irons could give you a new look for the day."

Keep in mind that using heat on curls – along with alcohol-based sprays and mousses – can make dry hair even drier. So don't forget to reverse the effects with a moisturized, non-volumizing shampoo and occasionally deep conditioner.

Dealing with: unruly hair

Like young children, hair can be obedient and well-behaved, or unruly and defiant. Since your hair is unique, it is likely that it will have its own kinks and quirks. Most of them will hug you and have learned to live, but a couple – cowlicks and double crowns – can be particularly problematic.

Crowns are (mostly clockwise) hair swirls that form at a central point on the back of the head directly from the top of your head – but some people have two of them that create a "double crown". These can be difficult for hairdressers because they have to deal with two centers of growth to style.

Cowlicks, meanwhile, are small sections of hair that go against the general direction of hair on the head to create gravity-defying tufts that hold and defy most attempts to tame them with products like waxes and pomades.

Knew how:

"If you have a distinctive double crown, you have to commit to either a long, very choppy, or short style," says Winkler. "Longer the crown will complain, make it less noticeable, and short and choppy will hide it." Everything in between and you ask for trouble, with different hair pieces noticeably growing apart.

The easiest way to deal with a stubborn cowlick is to make a short, spiky, or structured style that works with it and not against it, disguising the hyperactive hair.

What products should be used on unruly hair?

There is no magic potion that can help here. However, some styling techniques can help make things easier.

For example, blow drying can temporarily change the direction of hair growth if cowlicks are an issue, while hair growth can help longer by weighing it.

Interestingly, washing the hair is less often a good hack, since the natural oils weigh the individual strands at the root.

Dealing with thick, wavy and unruly hair for men

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