katia's fragrance report spring 2024
goes hard, unsurprisingly -
liis in this world (i want to know what the people at liis are putting in their perfumes to make them have not a single fucking miss. skyrocketed up into being my favorite liis scent with little competition.)
liis lucienne (probably the least creative liis scent but still very well done. very Zingy.)
hermes un jardin de la cythere (MORE WOODY NOTES THAT AREN'T SANDALWOOD 2024 might have to buy this at one point)
hermes un jardin sur de nil (green mango note you will always be famous)
bon parfumeur gin mandarin and musk (yaaaay citrus yayyyy :3)
blocki brazilian lily (greenhouse scent my beloved i wanna smell like a greenhouse all the time goes crazy and furthermore goes stupid)
blocki in every season (WELL BALANCED WHITE FLORALS MY BELOVED)
goes hard, somewhat surprisingly -
replica from the garden (thank you chloe you said tomato leaf and i was like. gulp. anyway it's on to my house. it's not AS tomato leaf forward as i would like but the mandarin note is pretty too and the dry down works super well – one of replica's most interesting and compelling formulations for sure)
snif vow factor (thank you chloe again - i was curious about the notes but was like I Am Not Wearing An Influencer's Hyped Up Wedding Scent That's Goofy but then she got sent two bottles by accident and sent one to me like a hero. this is very nice especially for fall and early spring probably gonna wear it to mama's broke tonight)
maison louis maris bousval (perfume oil edition) - smelled a few of the edt formulations including bois de balincourt a few years ago and thought they sucked ass. then got sent this as a sample and had to pledge my heart to it. the ginger and cardamom are sooo good but it's balanced enough that it feels truly multiseasonal
smells so good on other people and so bad on me -
hermes un jardin sur la lagune (all i get is sweet powdery white florals. WHERE are the aquatic notes. my mom gets the aquatic notes. unfair!! as i've finished writing this post it's dried down into something more pleasant but still not interesting enough to spend money on)
smells bad on me bottom text -
bon parfumeur vanilla caramel and sandalwood. smells lactonic on me and nothing will ever ever ever make me like lactonics. fuck milk forever. signing off.
all of the vintagey blockis, like saharet and espirit d'amour and this grand affair. sorry i can't do it i can't do vintage. sanrovia actually disappointed me the most. didn't know citrus could smell that unappealing on me.
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Perfumes nations use (part 1/?)
✨ Poland:
He has a scent for every occasion and he changes them often to suit his mood, so there are sweet, gourmand scents, light and floral, but also some stronger with spices and woods. He loves to look for new compositions. He still has a few bottles of original Chanel no 5, which he no longer uses, because now the composition is changed.
- Pistachio - D. S. & Durga
- Brazilian Crush Cheirosa ’40 - Sol de Janeiro
- Signature - Chloé
- La Fille de Berlin - Serge Lutens
- Gdańsk - Gallivant
- Un Jardin Sur La Lagune - Hermés
- Attar al Kaaba - Al Haramain
- Baccarat Rouge 540 - Maison Francis Kurkdjian
If he wants to piss everyone off, he uses Pink Sugar by Aquolina. Latvia is a main hater of that one.
🌿Lithuania:
He fell in love with Hungary Water in 13th century and to this day loves scents with a rosemary note, like Zielinski & Rozen - Rosemary & Lemon, Neroli
He also likes stronger scents, but not too much because they can give him migraines.
Feliks puts a lot of Armenia paper to his drawers, so his clothes have scent of that too.
He likes the slightly soapy scents too, those with this note of freshness.
- Perpetual Oud - Zara
- Fiore di Riso - Farmacia SS. Annunziata
- Pot Pourri - Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella
- Eau de Cologne Imperiale - Guerlain
- And, of course, with his love to Nivea cream:
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A Journey of Fragrances!
@amrass, finally here I am! I decided to add not only the current collection, but some other scented products and my notes. I hope this would be an interesting read! Because it's a long one :)
Notes
For long time I thought that I hate perfumes. It was a typical gift from family/friends, some pink and flowery, and then I discovered that there are so much more in fragrance world than a boquet composition of roses and jasmine.
My main aim now is to try out as much different notes and brands as I can, to find the ones I like. I don't like to smell as somebody else, so I don't try any popular fragrances, I don't really appreciate the compliments like "you smell so nice, I want to buy this perfume too". I like feeling unique, pretenseous, and I'm not afraid to wear weird/strong fragrances, or being disliked because of them. The smell is always a story for me, but of course for an occasion when I care what people think of me, I choose something careful and subtle.
My current collection
Nearly every one of them is decant/sample, but generally 1.5 ml is enough for me to decided whether it is hit or miss, and would I like to buy a full bottle or to get other scents from the brand.
Alexandre.J - Golden Oud
This one is too masculine for me; on a man, I think, it can be sensed as his own odour, not as a perfume. Very sour, and woody. Dries down beautifully into dusted wood.
Alexandre.J - Rose Alba
One of the first roses I ever liked—I love sweet roses, but I'm not really fond of green, grassy roses. Extremely pretentious, powerful, non-negotiable smell. It's sharp and clean, a swing of sword. For an occasion when you are the trouble in which young and naive individuals fall into.
Bottega Veneta - Parco Palladiano VII: Lillà
The smell of cold summer breeze on the seaside, a fresh bouquet of lilacs. The salt gives something bold to it—like growing up from the youth. Very beautiful and simple. The price is too much, but still I love it a lot, and I would like to have it in full bottle somewhere in my wardrobe.
Cartier - La Panthere
My only chypre fragrance, and it appeared that I don't like chypre at all. Oak moss is very sharp, mature, and for me smells like an old, old wardrobe stocked in a corner of grandma's house. Though, you can tell that this one is definitely an expensive, well-made perfume—I'm just not the audience for it.
Gucci - Bloom Intense
General luxury fragrance, pleasant jasmine, but not very long-lasting, and is rather simple. At home smells after 2 hours like Nivea cream, outside is more pleasant, a frivolous jasmine, but I'm not a big fan of the Bloom line, so it's more like if you didn't like one of them—you probably won't like any other.
Hermes - Un Jardin a Cythere
This is a hit! I want 100ml. It's a green pistachio, olive tree leaves and grass—smells exactly like all of that. Unique, intriguing, light, very beautiful. Extremely pleasant in summer, people turn their hands and don't understand where and what they smelled, haha. A summer dream, a promise, a little courage—these are the feelings I get from it.
The Jardin line is rather pleasant, I smelled a few more, and I more or less like all of them, my second fav is Sur La Lagune.
Juliette Has A Gun - White Spirit
Extremely sharp but close silage, and a reminder of "This Is Not a Perfume" from this brand. At first, it smells like clean naked skin (I've never understood how perfume could smell like skin before I tried this one), then there's a bouquet on it of white fresh flowers, sweet and arousing. Simultaneously, perfume for inducing sexual thoughts and very moderate choice for every day. The sad part is, the molecules such fragrances use are rancid to people that can't smell them.
Memo - Sintra
My 2023 ultimate, unforgettable. Middle eastern sweets (halva, baklava, locum), candy from dried milk powder and green-green petitgrain. It opens with petitgrain, which is like a blast of sharp greenery (like a freshly torn wild grass), and then all the sweets come in, plus a little of orange and red berries. I absolutely love it. Dries down into milk and halva, and stays on clothing for days. I hunted it for a few months on a big discount, and finally we are together! I've been wearing it the whole winter with a fox fur near my neck and a woolesh sweater, and it blends with their animalistic smell... for me, it's very, very sexy.
Narciso Rodriguez - Ambree
A real hazard in every season aside hot, hot summer. Smells like very sharp men cologne. This was a blind buy, I was so sad... Yet, in +30 moist summer it suddenly became a pleasant tropical smell, a bit citrusy. Very lighthearted and nice, cute like candy, for a playful girl. Aroma for a vacation.
I had 3 more perfumes from Narciso, but didn't like any, their musk is unbearable for me after Covid (my nose receptors were entirely burned down, so I discovered smells anew). I liked "for her" 2003 (black bottle and cap) when I was 13-14, but I can't stand it, sadly, no more.
Nasomatto - Blamage
I liked it for the name and the concept for, like, a year, and finally bought 2ml in Feb, and I was very delighted to finally get a touch of Mr Gualtieri work. A shapeshifter, and an interesting one, on manly/mature side. Too powerful for me on the opening, but the drying out is very pleasant, a subtle natural wood. Aroma for the wearer, and not for the rest of the public, because it's not even a perfume in general sense. It's a natural, mixed odour behind you, more a reminder of places you might've been, than a perfumed "decoration" for pleasant associations. But that's precisely the concept behind Nasomatto, I guess,—the reminiscence of places on you, a story untold.
Nishane - Nanshe
This was a total miss. I nearly blind bought, but it's with rose, so I forced myself to try it out first. Well... Smells like very old cosmetic powder, like from 80s. After 3 hours there finally were carrot seeds and iris root for me, but so subtle, it doesn't worth it. I thought it would be courageous iris and carrot, which are powdery, very tasty for me, but no. Though the name is rather beautiful, the goddess of social justice and divination.
Rabanne - Lady Million
Strong honey from mixed flowers, for me, it's the smell of august, honey so concentrated it makes you drunk. Rather mature smell, imo, but still fun, coquettish. It makes me feel flirty, but, like, you have to earn my attention haha
Rabanne - Lady Million Fabulous
Generally nice and pleasant, sweet and youthful. I like it! Vanilla and white flowers makes it smell like a sunny summery day.
Rabanne - Olympea
I wanted to love it so much, it's apricots and salt, but it's a lame horse for me. Too much salt in the beginning, that makes it almost manly, then there's a little of apricots. For me, not balanced, and I used it quite a lot in one go, which turned out bad—I wanted to smell apricots, but instead was nauseous with salt.
Tiziana Terenzi - Rosso Pompei
My new love!!! Oh, I was so intrigued to try out any work of Mr Terenzi, and this is so good! I'm addicted. I thought I don't like lemons/grapefruits in fragrances (for example, nearly every Chanel perfume has citrus, and I don't like literally any), but I was amazed here. Juicy, sweet and plump grapes, fresh grapefruit. Like a bag of naturally flavoured hard candies. The ambra is extremely strong, which makes it rancid for some people, and the aroma lasts on me for a day, on clothing—eternal, doesn't want to be washed off really. A smell men love, and women hate (literally got flirtuous attention and a "omg what an awful smell" in the same day lmao). A smell of secret love, down-to-earth pleasures, hours to be carelessly enjoyed.
Tom Ford - Black Orchid (EDT 2023)
There is a joke among the haters of this perfume, that the inspiration for Mr Ford was the smell of the sweaty balls of his lover. Well... If used in very little amount (like half of the spray push), it's quite pleasant, sweet plum, peppery patchuli. But people like to do 3-5 full sprays, and it's absolutely rancid for me, stale come, sweat and fucking patchuli, I hate them now because of this lmao
Maison Tahité— ah, I bought 5 samples and that was a mistake, I usually buy only 1 sample/decant to get acquainted with the brand (I immediately know what types of scents they use), but I was so sure I would like it... Every single one has something that I dislike, but in general they share the first vanilla I've ever disliked— the childish smell of baking, cheap vanillin.
Cafe Gourmad—misleading name for me, very strong saffron with a strange rose, can't sense coffee in it. Nothing "warm".
Floranilla—the most likeable, this is the one with beautiful flowers (heliotrope does all the job, and imo it can make a rather dull fragrance more unique and enticing) and an awful vanillin. But at least I can wear it.
Sel-Vanille—dupe of Rabanne Olympia, there are differences, but they are subtle. It's ok.
Vanilla2— the smell of pinky-pink cosmetics for little girls, I hate it... very cheap, not exciting, dull smell.
Vanillade—vanilla is balanced with citrus, and it's simply ok, I can't even add anything else.
I don't have them now, but I had them:
Chloe - Rose Naturelle Intense
Quite, intimate and as the title imposes—natural. Tender sweet rose, the milkiness of sandalwood and freshly cut wood. Honestly, nothing exciting, but it's balanced so right, and I love the subtleness of it, it mixes with sweat, and it seems as if it's not a perfume, but the scent the body emits on its own. Lasts for 2-3 hours, so I need it only on a biiig discount haha
Penhaligon's - Changing Constance
Subtle and intimate, one has to tuck the nose into wearers skin to notice it, and I love such sexuality, the allure. It's natural, fresh caramel, cig smoke and fresh red pepper (not like spices, but like vegetable). A slice of life—sweets, clothing and hair acquiring the smell of cigarettes, the sharp peppery sweat. A story behind the shoulders. I abosuletuly love it, it never has dicsount more than 20%, but I want it too much...
Scented Candles
Geodesis
This is a handmade French brand which for some reason brought the shop I regularly visit for groceries. I have Fir Balsam—explicitly natural aroma, fresh resin, like you just cut a wound in a tree... I also like Geranium, smells just like the flower, not as strong as oil usually does, and Boise d'Agar—like a wooden room full of cig smoke, magnifique. The perfumed compositions are very strong in here, with the smell emiting throught the whole room.
Milkhouse Candle Co
I have Summer Storm, which literally smells like rain in a green-green field, and White Driftwood&Coconut—amazing, light, tropical aroma, a bit like a thunderstorm, and natural coconut, not like Bounty or shower gel, but like the green ones with juice in them.
I love perfume compositions of WoodWick, but I become nauseous if paraffinium evaporates near me for a long time, so I haven't bought a single one. The composition may be a hit or miss, but the basic knowledge of odours gives a rather bright picture of what every candle may smell like (aside from their 3-layerd candles, which are hard to imagine without smelling). They have a new one, Santal Myrrh, which I think to blind buy for summer, when I can open windows to get rid of paraffinium vapour.
Bath&Body Works
I have not a candle, but a room spray, which pleasantly surprised me. Absolutely not synthetic, natural composition, and a nice one (I have Winter, tangerine+pine+cloves, literally smells like Christmas), I'm looking forward to buy a few more different ones.
And last but not the least, I wanted to mention L'Occitane! I was in love/hate with them for a few years, because the price of body products is too expensive imo, and I'm not really fond of their regular smells (Lavender, Osmanthus, Cherry,etc) , but!! I abosultely love the new Melilot (galbanum!! and wheat) and Iris Pallida (iris root and herbs). I have body lotion and hand cream, and I'm totally smitten, I want to but a few bottles more haha. I also liked Noble Epine in the shop, but haven't bought any product yet.
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