Tenuta di Fessina A' Puddara Etna Bianco 2019 🌋🌟🍋 • • • • • • Da un vigneto di 70 anni ad alberello tutto di carricante piantato a Est da Viagrande nasce in alto perché unica uva che matura(va) qui, da sempre un vitigno poco aromatico che porta tanto malico e i contadini usavano fermentarlo in botti da 100 hl con tanto tempo su fecce, in maniera da avere una malolattica spontanea per avere prodotto più bevibile ad una vinificazione in acciaio. Tuttora viene fermentato in legno, malolattiche svolte però solo per un 20% per ricordare Etna Storica, solo 10mila bottiglie . • • • Papaya, mango e passion fruit, poi mandarino, cedro, zest, timo limonato e poi altro lato più gessoso, al palato resta quasi solo iodio, parte decisamente persistente, da abbinare con una ostrica dolce e ghiaccio o spaghetti con tartare di scampo sopra oppure carne bianca altre. Però suggestione su mare è sempre fortissima così come il nome delle Pleiadi (dette a’puddara ovvero i pulcini della chioccia), punto di orientamento alto sul versante sudovest per i marinai qui nei dintorni. Il vigneto è proprio sotto le Pleiadi in Estate…e ed è sempre una bella immagine rammentarlo. Così come ci piace rammentare Silvia Maestrelli che amava profondamente questo vino e ora possiamo immaginarla lassù tra le Pleiadi che continua a seguirlo... • • • • #carricante #etna #etnabianco #etnadoc #andreagori #vino #wine #bianco #whitewine #vulcano #volcanicwines #volcanic #sicily #silviamastrelli #compagniadelvino (presso Tenuta di Fessina) https://www.instagram.com/p/CeqcFONtX7L/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=
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Etna Bianco 2016 Ayunta
For those of you kindly keeping up with my weekly postings, I was recently ranting about the beauty of Etna and its ability to withstand against any classically-defined wine regions.
Although, Mount Etna had long been shaped by viticulture for centuries, it was not until the late 1990′s that investments or simply the Wine World figured out just how much potential Etna had.
Running Northeast to Southeast around the volcano, most of the area under vines are planted to Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Capuccio, creating the Etna Rosso blend, while Carricante and Catarratto makes for the blend created under the Etna Bianco DOC (although a small tiny amount of other indigenous grape varieties can also be found).
While most of the volcanic soils are phylloxera-free with vines approaching +200 years old, substantial differences were also found based on the site vines were grown in as microclimate drastically changes from one side to the other.
Indeed, the term ‘contrada’ was first struck in 2005 based on that belief, as producers felt the need to show and highlight how key sites were, as it is the case in Burgundy, France (Premier cru, Grand cru system).
In other words, not only is Nerello Mascalese (as is Pinot Noir) extremely sensitive to site exposure but ripening conditions can prove difficult when the right conditions are overlooked (elevation, sun exposure, slope incline).
Back to this review, earlier this week, I happened to be lucky enough to experience what the region really has to offer in a liquid form.
Filippo Mangione, Ayunta’s founder, has had wine part of his life and his family’s for a little while.
Growing up in Southern Sicily, Filippo watched his father tend vines since a very early age until witnessing his passing, which led to all of his family’s holdings being sold off eventually.
Following up was Filippo finding his way into the wine industry all the way to a sommelier position inspiring him to make a trip back to his roots down in Etna and take over what were, soon-to-be, abandoned parcels.
Fast forward to 2011, Filippo kickstarted AYUNTA with holdings from very old vines, primarily located on the Northern side of the volcano and today averaging 3 hectares.
Another noteworthy fact is, as these are also sitting on fairly high altitude in a cooler area, around 600-700m, harvest can be overdue and take place until the end of October for red varieties.
Filippo made it also very clear from the very beginning that very few interventions would be made in or outdoors and no chemicals would be in use in the vineyards over a yearly, very close watch on the vines instead.
ETNA BIANCO ‘Piante/Sparse’, proudly displayed on the bottle here stands for ‘stray vines’ in Italian, as white varieties are blended in and scattered among red varieties. As a result, maturity can be tricky to keep in check and Filippo, in some years, prefer to not even release any whites on the market.
The wine, when poured, comes off a touch cloudy (not surprising as no filtration or fining is done) and extremely vibrant taking on bright gold hues and, if this can be a wine descriptor, glitters.
I found the nose to be living up to its color, again starting off extremely bold.
Most interesting of nose here. Changing as the glass was swirled around some more, making me feel like I was opening a spice cabinet… vanilla beans, cardamom and pistacchio, taking me to a seafood platter with some briny notes and wet rocks finishing off on some yellow apple flesh undertones. Never-ending.
Overall, I felt the wine dancing, tickling and evolving just under an hour (or enough time for three individuals to get to the end of the bottle). Great acidity throughout providing backbone and added roundness to the wine.
In all honesty, Craftsmanship can truly be tasted in here.
Whether this is in any ways related to the non-interventionist practises, I cannot confirm but this is nonetheless, in every way, very well-handled and again, is a reminder that Mount Etna has a bright future ahead.
Thanks for reading!
AA
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Cottanera Calderara Etna Doc Bianco 2017 🌋🍋🌶 • • • • • • • Solido agrume e affumicato leggero più tambureggiante gesso e petricore, arancio pesca e mango che si aprono su un tappeto di erbe aromatiche. Delicato da gamberetto ma anche persistente su carni bianche . “Calderara è una delle poche contrade con colate laviche e depositi vulcano-clastici relative all’attività effusive ed esplosiva del centro eruttivo dell’Ellittico , circa tra i 60,000 e i 15,000 anni fa. Sebbene molto giovane in termini geologici, il suolo dell’Ellittico è lo strato superficiale più antico dove sia possibile piantare...” #andreagori #wine #vino #andreagorisommelier #vin #winelover #tasting #degustazione #assaggimemorabili #carricante #etna #vulcanico #vulcano #volcanic #volcanicwine (presso Cottanera) https://www.instagram.com/p/B-2_NIVKx4h/?igshid=1sop3rvvs609y
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Lemon cream on the nose, a hint of celery--pleasant, though. Biscuits quickly shift to green pepper and a trace of flint. Backend is more lemon and a trace of butter. This is an excellent white, will suited for good and pleasant companionship. #volcanic #volcanicwine #volcanicwines #italy #italianwine #italianwinelover #italy🇮🇹 #wine #winelover #whitewine @graci_etna #etnabianco @dcanterwines (at Navy Yard) https://www.instagram.com/p/CKpZEhABOqd/?igshid=c1rx9raqhskp
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