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After the first string of important jewelry auctions last month, the spring auction season seemed to be on rocky ground heading into the May sales. However, the failed sale of the Shirley Temple Blue diamond back in April did nothing to stop the record-making prices fetched by the Oppenheimer, the Unique Pink and more important diamonds headlining the May auctions.

The Oppenheimer Diamond – 14.62 carat Fancy Vivid Blue diamond, the largest Fancy Vivid blue ever to come to auction, sold at Christie’s Geneva for $57.5 million

  The expression ‘when it rains, it pours’ is uncannily apt in the case of blue diamonds at auction recently. Almost every important jewelry sale this spring has featured a rare blue diamond, or two: Sotheby’s Hong Kong sold the De Beers Millenium Jewel 4, a 10.10-carat internally flawless Fancy Vivid blue diamond, for $31.8 million on April 5; the Shirley Temple Blue Diamond at Sotheby’s New York that failed to reach its $25 million low estimate; the 14.62-carat Oppenheimer Blue diamond at Christie’s Geneva, sold for a record $57.5 million; and, at Sotheby’s Geneva, a 7.32-carat internally flawless Fancy Vivid blue diamond fetched $17.1 million while a Fancy Intense blue diamond brooch, by Alexander Reza, brought in $13.6 million.

  Even after all these unprecedented sales of fancy blue diamonds, there is still one more left for the unlucky underbidders. Christie’s New York recently announced it will be selling The Cullinan Dream,the largest Fancy Intense Blue diamond at auction, weighing 24.18 carats, in its Magnificent Jewels sale in June.

The Cullinan Dream – the largest Fancy Intense blue diamond ever offered at auction is estimated to fetch $23 to $29 million at Christie’s New York in June

  Record Breakers

On May 18th, Sotheby’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels sale proved immensely successful. With 83 percent sold by lot, the 488-lot auction realized $175.1 million in total – setting a new world record for any jewelry sale. That enormous figure was largely owed to the $31.5 million price fetched by the Unique Pink diamond, a pear-shaped Fancy Vivid pink of 15.38 carats, VVS2 clarity, Type IIa. The sale was packed with several important colored diamonds, including the fancy blues mentioned earlier. Three lots sold for over $10 million while six lots realized prices over $5 million.

The Unique Pink – a 15.38-carat pear-shaped Fancy Vivid pink diamond that sold for $31.56 million at Sotheby’s Geneva

  The following day, Christie’s Geneva answered back with gusto in the form of the Oppenheimer Blue diamond. After fierce bidding consumed the room for a nail-biting 25 minutes, the gavel finally fell for the jaw-dropping sale price of $57.5 million. The monstrous sum instantly set a new world record for any jewel sold at auction, besting the Blue Moon that sold at Sotheby’s in November last year for $48.5 million. The auction as a whole produced strong results with 86 percent sold by lot and 93 percent sold by value.

The Oppenheimer Blue Diamond

  The staggering success of the May sales is somewhat of surprise given the uncertainty of the market as well as recent news of sales drops at Tiffany’s and De Beers – reports that echo the current state of the jewelry industry. With just a few more sales left, here’s hoping the spring season caps off with a strong finish.

  Big Diamonds Dominate Spring Jewelry Auctions After the first string of important jewelry auctions last month, the spring auction season seemed to be on rocky ground heading into the May sales.

#Christie&039;s #Oppenheimer Blue #Sotheby&039;s #Unique Pink

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Black, White and Brilliant - A Preview of Hemmerle's New York Spring Viewing

Black, White and Brilliant – A Preview of Hemmerle’s New York Spring Viewing

For its New York Spring Viewing this year, Hemmerle pays homage to the piece that revolutionized the Munich-based jewelers contemporary aesthetic we know today. In 1995, a special commission for a ring by a family friend, who preferred Berlin iron to precious jewels, inspired Stefan Hemmerle to set a diamond not in gold or platinum but in his friend’s beloved iron. The striking result of a…

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#Hemmerle

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Nadia Morgenthaler's First Showing in New York

Nadia Morgenthaler’s First Showing in New York

Since launching in December 2013, Nadia Morgenthaler has quietly become one of the top fine jewelry designers you need to know now. The Geneva-based designer, who has over 20 years of experience creating jewelry for other designers, is coming to New York for the first time this week to show this side of the Atlantic her exquisite pieces. A pair of earrings set with spinels, pearls and diamonds,…

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In a sea of rare blue gems headlining the sales in this auction season, the red hot Jubilee Ruby – the starring lot in Christie’s New York Magnificent Jewels sale on April 20th – stands apart with its fiery crimson hue. The oval-shaped Burmese beauty, weighing 15.99 carats, sparkles in an iconic ring setting by Verdura. Rarely do rubies of this size and exceptional quality appear at auction when compared to the finest emeralds, sapphires and diamonds. Estimated to sell for $12 to 15 million, the Jubilee Ruby is poised to join the ranks of other notable rubies sold at auction, such as the 25.6-carat Sunrise Ruby that sold at Sotheby’s last May for $30 million.

The Jubilee Ruby Set with an oval-shaped ruby, weighing approximately 15.99 carats, within a circular-cut diamond and polished gold surround, to the trifurcated gold hoop, ring size 7 1/4, mounted in platinum and 18k gold Signed Verdura – Estimate: $12-15 million

  Rahul Kadakia, International Head of Jewelry:  “Top quality Burmese rubies of over 15 carats are an absolute rarity in the world of colored gemstones and the record price of $18.3 million achieved for the 15.04 carat Crimson Red Ruby at Christie’s Hong Kong in December 2015 exemplified the voracious appetite of collectors for these gems.”

At 255 lots, Christie’s spring sale is on the smaller side compared to previous major sales, but packs just as exciting a punch. With estimates from $2,000 to $12,000,000 and a majority of lots offered on behalf of Private Collections and Estates, the sale presents a broad, yet select group of fine gemstones and jewelry that meet the demands of today’s discerning market.

A RARE COLORED DIAMOND AND DIAMOND RING Set with a cushion modified brilliant-cut fancy intense purple-pink diamond, weighing approximately 10.07 carats, flanked on either side by a triangular-shaped diamond, ring size 6 1/4, mounted in platinum and gold. Estimate: $8-12 million

  Rare diamonds, both colored and colorless, abound in the sale, led by a 10.07-carat Fancy Intense Purple-Pink diamond and diamond ring (est. $8-12 million). Like the sun’s welcoming rays in spring, a 54.62-carat Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond (est. $1.5-2.5 million) radiates a warming glow. For colorless diamonds, nothing can top a truly flawless round brilliant and the sale features two such exceptional stones: a 40.43-carat D, Flawless, Type IIa round brilliant diamond (est. $7-10 million) and a 14.11-carat D, Flawless, Type IIa round brilliant diamond (est. $1.5-2 million).

AN IMPORTANT COLORED DIAMOND RING Set with a round-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut fancy vivid yellow diamond, weighing approximately 54.62 carats, ring size 6, mounted in 18k gold. Estimate: $1.5-2.5 million

  A handful of important Kashmir sapphires have emerged this season at the major auctions, and Christie’s New York sale is no exception. Weighing 23.14 carats, a cabochon-cut Kashmir sapphire set in an elegantly simple ring is expected to fetch between $800,000 and $1.2 million.

AN IMPORTANT SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING Set with a square cushion-shaped cabochon sapphire, weighing approximately 23.14 carats, to the circular-cut diamond shoulders and gallery, ring size 6, mounted in platinum. Estimate: $800,000-1.2 million

  While the sale itself is gemstone-heavy, there are several covetable pieces sure to cause bidding wars between jewelry collectors. My favorite lot in the sale is a pair of flower cluster earclips by Donald Claflin for Tiffany & Co. (est. $12,000-15,000). Though best known for his whimsical brooches, Claflin designed all types of jewelry for Tiffany from 1965 to 1977 but it is rare to see a pair of his earrings, particularly a pair as charming as these. The intricacy of the tiny flowers composed of precious gems, blue enamel and carved coral illustrate Claflin’s ability to create striking effects using an unusual mix of materials in bold colors.

A PAIR OF DIAMOND AND MULTI-GEM FLOWER EAR CLIPS, BY DONALD CLAFLIN, TIFFANY & CO. Each designed as a cluster of circular, pear and marquise-cut diamond petals, enhanced by blue enamel and heart-shaped coral flower blossoms, with cabochon turquoise and emerald pistils, 1 1/4 ins., mounted in 18k gold and white gold Signed Tiffany for Tiffany & Co., designed by Donald Claflin. Esimate: $12,000-15,000

  Another unique and whimsical jewel in the sale is a diamond and platinum bangle by Jean Schlumberger, circa 1940 (est. $30,000-50,000). An early example of his work, this exceptional jewel transposes Schlumberger’s early career designing fashion jewelry for Elsa Schiaparelli to his many successful years creating fine jewelry. The single-palate of white color from the diamonds and platinum differs noticeably from his more typical colorful creations, but the bangle exhibits the same playful nature, with its organic asymmetrical flowers with articulated petals, for which Schlumberger has become best known.

A DIAMOND BANGLE BRACELET, BY JEAN SCHLUMBERGER Set at the top with variously-sized circular-cut diamonds, extending five en tremblant circular-cut diamond flower blossoms, to the platinum and circular-cut diamond hinged bangle bracelet, circa 1940, 2 1/4 ins. diameter, in a Schlumberger black suede fitted case Signed Schlumberger for Jean Schlumberger. Estimate: $30,000-50,000

  For collectors of jewelry with provenance, the sale includes a piece formerly in the famous collection of the Duchess of Windsor: a leather and gold belt, by Cartier, circa 1960s (est. $60,000-80,000). Set with an assortment of seventeen gold coins from several countries and dating as early as 1327, the belt fantastically illustrates the flair for fashion and elegant style that the Duchess favored. She and the Duke would often collaborate with Cartier, as well as other jewelry houses, to create custom pieces imbued with sentimental aspects, such as the Duchess’s gem-set cross charm bracelet also by Cartier.

A LEATHER AND GOLD BELT, BY CARTIER Designed as a black leather belt, enhanced by seventeen gold coins within studded surrounds, comprising: Central American Republic, two escudos, 1850; Costa Rica, two escudos, 1854; France, twenty francs, 1851, 1857 and 1911; Great Britain, sovereigns, 1889 and 1898; Guatemala, ten pesos, two and five pesos, all 1869; Italy, Milan, Napoleon, forty lire, 1814; Netherlands, ten gulden, 1932 and 1933; Spain, Charles III, two escudos, 1788, Madrid mint; Turkey, one hundred piastres, A.H., 1327, Constantinople mint; United States of America, five dollars, 1901 and 1911, circa 1950s, 26 7/8 ins., mounted in gold Signed Cartier, marked S.C. (special commission). Estimate: $60,000-80,000

  More favorites from the sale include:

    The Jubilee Ruby Leads Christie’s New York Magnificent Jewels Sale In a sea of rare blue gems headlining the sales in this auction season, the red hot 

#Cartier #Claflin #Donald Claflin #Duchess of Windsor #Graff #Harry Winston #Jean Schlumberger #Jubilee Ruby #Schlumberger #Tiffany & Co. #Van Cleef & Arpels #Verdura

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Blue is the couleur du jour in gemstones at auction of late, with the bevy of blue diamonds at auction this spring. At Bonhams New York, however, it is the sapphire that rules the roost. Among the myriad of highlights in Bonhams Fine Jewelry set to take place this Monday in New York is a trio of exceptional blue sapphires, two Kashmirs and one Burmese.

A Kashmir sapphire and diamond ring, set with a cushion mixed-cut sapphire, weighing 8.07 carats, flanked by fancy-cut diamond shoulders; estimated total diamond weight: 1.00 carat; mounted in platinum; size 7 3/4in. Estimate: $400,000-600,000

  Gracing the cover and headlining the sale, a magnificent 8.07-carat Kashmir sapphire and diamond ring (est. $400,000-600,000) exemplifies all the qualities one could hope for in this rare gem. Of quintessential cornflower blue hue, the sapphire is believed to have been purchased by Bernard Golson for his wife in the early 1920’s. Golson worked with the Guggenheims while also aiding the U.S. authorities in the pursuit of Pancho Villa, an endeavor that ultimately led to Villa chasing Golson out of Mexico. Though Golson and his family had to lose most of their belongings, they were able to at least bring their most precious family heirlooms, such as this ring, by sewing them into their clothing when escaping to the United States.

A Kashmir sapphire and diamond ring, Black Starr & Frost, centering an antique cushion brilliant-cut sapphire, weighing 3.49 carats, within a diamond-set ornate basket and split shank; signed BS&F; mounted in 18k gold; size 5. Estimate: $250,000-350,000

  Equally noteworthy for its rare velvety blue hue is a 3.49-carat Kashmir sapphire, of an antique cushion brilliant-cut, and diamond ring by Black, Starr & Frost (est. $250,000-350,000).

An Important Belle Époque Burmese sapphire and diamond ring, Tiffany & Co. circa 1910, centering an oval mixed-cut sapphire, weighing 10.94 carats, within a pavé-set diamond surround and ornate openwork diamond-set mount; signed Tiffany & Co.; mounted in platinum; size 8 3/4. Estimate: $100,000-150,000

  Rounding out the rare sapphire triumvirate is a Burmese sapphire of 10.94 carats, set in a Belle Époque ring by Tiffany & Co., circa 1910 (est. $100,000-150,000). The oval-shaped stone exudes the desirable ‘royal blue’ hue sought after in sapphires hailing from Burma. More importantly, the ring itself speaks of the beauty, quality and design for which Tiffany & Co. was most revered at the turn of the century.

While sapphires may play front and center in the 138-lot sale, there are a number of covet-worthy pieces to consider as well. Changing shades of blue to emerald green, a pair of Colombian emerald and diamond ear pendants, by Ruser (est. $40,000-60,000) will surely leave underbidders green with envy.

A pair of Colombian emerald and diamond ear pendants, Ruser, each suspending a pear-shaped emerald, weighing 6.26 and 5.96 carats, within a round brilliant-cut diamond surround, to the round brilliant and marquise-cut diamond cluster surmount, pendant drops detachable; signed Ruser; estimated total diamond weight: 12.80 carats; mounted in platinum; length 2 1/8in. Estimate: $40,000-60,000

  Important gemstones aside, the sale features collectible signed pieces by Bulgari, Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels as well as contemporary creations by Carvin French, to name a few. Three Cartier Panthère rings – one pavé-set with diamonds (est. $35,000-45,000), another of diamonds with sapphire spots (est. $60,000-80,000), and a third of gold decorated with black enamel spots (est. $15,000-18,000) – fiercely stalk an iconic Van Cleef & Arpels ballerina, circa 1944 (est. $50,000-70,000), while floral earrings from both houses bloom resplendently in the sale.

  A striking dome ring by Cartier (est. $15,000-20,000) playfully sets a confetti of colorful gems within a soaring lattice of gold rope. Of a similarly colorful palate, a pair of gem-set and pearl drop earrings by Van Cleef & Arpels (est. $20,000-30,000) invokes the exotic Indian motifs that transformed jewelry design throughout the 20th century.

  Additional highlights in the sale include:

      Sapphires Headline Highlights at Bonhams Fine Jewelry Sale in New York Blue is the couleur du jour in gemstones at auction of late, with the bevy of blue diamonds at auction this spring.

#Black Starr & Frost #Buccellati #Bulgari #Cartier #Carven French #Hemmerle #Ruser #Tiffany & Co. #Van Cleef & Arpels

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Next week, Sotheby’s shifts its spring season into full gear with its first Magnificent Jewels sale in New York on April 19th. The sale is already causing a frenzy with the anticipation of how high the hammer price will go for the Shirley Temple Blue Diamond. However, the beautiful blue rarity is not the only piece of jewelry to look forward to in the sale.

Magnificent and Rare Platinum, Fancy Deep Blue Diamond and Diamond Ring The cushion modified brilliant-cut Fancy Deep Blue diamond weighing 9.54 carats, flanked by four rows of baguette diamonds weighing approximately .40 carat, size 5¾; 1940. Together with an alternate mounting, composed of 18 karat gold and platinum, designed as two interlocking bands, size 5½, signed Tiffany & Co.; 1972.

  Sprinkled among the well-known names that dominate every major jewelry sale, such as this one, is an assortment of enigmatic designers whose work sporadically appears at auction. Firstly, the four unique jewels by Marianne Ostier in the sale offers a rare opportunity to see the work by one of the very few female artist jewelers of the 20th century. In an industry largely dominated by men, Ostier brought an understanding of jewelry should be worn by women, factoring face shape, complexion, body type and coloring as important criteria when selecting jewels.

Norman Norell collection – Stripe-and-Rose Patterned Dress with Marianne Ostier Jewels, 1947. This stripe-and-rose patterned dress by Traina-Norell was featured in Vogue, where it was described as “fresh and bold as Matisse”. The photograph was sent with a press release issued by the advertising agency N. W. Ayer & Son, Inc., and can be found with the accompanying letter in Box OSx-2, Folder 9. The description in the press release indicates that the model is wearing “versatile” jewelry designs by Marianne Ostier, including a ruby-and-diamond flower-burst necklace and barrel-shaped bracelet concealing a seventeen-jewel watch. Photo courtesy of The New School Archives

  Upon her marriage to Oliver Ostier, a third generation court jeweler to the Hapsburgs, she moved to New York in 1939 and opened a shop along Fifth Avenue near 57th street. There, she translated her training in painting and sculpting at the Vienna Academy of Arts and Crafts into jewelry design, gaining a glittering clientele that included Julie Nixon, Ingrid Bergman and the Maharani of Jaipur. However, her foray into the business lasted only three decades. Ostier closed her shop after the death of her husband, finding the day-to-day tasks to be too overwhelming to manage on her own.

Platinum and Diamond Tiara, Designed by Marianne Ostier for Oesterreicher, Wien Depicting the Albanian royal crest of the ‘Ram of Skanderberg’ atop a graduated floral vine, set with old European and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately 28.05 carats, accented by baguette diamonds weighing approximately 4.80 carats; circa 1938. With signed and fitted royal presentation box. Estimate: $30,000-50,000

  During her short time designing jewelry, Ostier left an indelible mark in the annals of jewelry history and a pioneer for future female jewelry designers. Her exquisite pieces capture the mid-century modern glamor with an elegant and original style, affording her oeuvre the admiration and appreciation from collectors today. Thus, it is a special treat to see the four pieces by Ostier in the outstanding collection of Mamdouha and Elmer Holmes Bobst in the sale. The most extraordinary piece is, without a doubt, a diamond tiara (est. $30,000-50,000) designed by Ostier for Oesterreicher, Wien, which would later become Ostier, Inc. of New York, in 1938 for the marriage of Queen Geraldine and King Zog I of Albania. Making this tiara strikingly distinct is the depiction of the ‘Ram of Skanderberg’ from the Albanian royal crest perched above a floral vine inspired by Geraldine, ‘The White Rose of Hungary’.

Platinum and Diamond ‘Galaxy’ Brooch, Marianne Ostier The swirled, celestial design centering one round diamond weighing 5.26 carats, accented by additional round diamonds weighing approximately 35.00 carats, with maker’s mark; circa 1955. With signed box. Estimate: $45,000-65,000

  Another exceptional piece by Ostier, also from the Bobst collection, is a ‘Galaxy Brooch’, circa 1955 (est. $45,000-65,000). A spiraling swirl of diamonds depicts the celestial formation with sparkling sophistication.

18 Karat Gold, Platinum, Enamel, Turquoise and Diamond Brooch, Donald Claflin for Tiffany & Co. Designed as a Thunderbird with a feathered crown and wings stretched, the wings highlighted with stripes applied in black and white enamel, the torso with black and gold enamel in feather-like patterns, and the mask additionally applied with black and white enamel, set with round diamonds weighing approximately 9.15 carats, accented by four turquoise cabochons, gross weight approximately 38 dwts, signed Tiffany & Co.; circa 1966. Estimate: $20,000-30,000

  Of equally rare and unique status, the assortment of jewels designed by Donald Claflin for Tiffany & Co. in the sale celebrate the whimsical side of jewelry. The colorful characters Claflin instilled into his high collectible brooches can be appreciated in three examples in the sale, including a fierce ‘Thunderbird’ (est. $20,000-30,000), circa 1966, and a brooch designed as a fantastical sea serpent amidst the ocean’s waves (est. $30,000-50,000), circa 1968.

18 Karat Gold, Platinum, Sapphire, Emerald and Diamond Brooch, Donald Claflin for Tiffany & Co. Designed as a sea serpent amidst the ocean’s waves, the serpent with a looped tail, set with round diamonds weighing approximately 10.65 carats, the torso further set with round sapphires, completed by a cabochon emerald eye, gross weight approximately 27 dwts, signed Tiffany & Co.; circa 1968. With signed box. Estimate: $30,000-50,000

  The sale also offers two additional pieces by Claflin, which were specially designed to feature tanzanite after its 1968 discovery by a Masai tribesman near the Kenyan border. The sapphire doppleganger ‘freak stones’, but at a fraction of the price, gave Claflin a new blue hue to work with, creating 18 limited edition jewels showcasing tanzanite that was unveiled by Tiffany & Co. in November 1968.

Platinum, 18 Karat Gold, Tanzanite, Emerald, Colored Diamond and Diamond Brooch, Donald Claflin for Tiffany & Co. Designed as a flower, set with a cushion-cut tanzanite weighing approximately 47.85 carats, framed by round diamonds of yellow hue weighing approximately 2.65 carats, accented by round near colorless diamonds weighing approximately 2.25 carats, further decorated with round emeralds, signed Tiffany & Co.; circa 1968. With signed box. Estimate: $25,000-35,000

  Naturally, the sale features a remarkable array of jewelry by prestigious brands and historically important designers from over two centuries of jewelry design. Fabulous jewels by Belperron, Schlumberger, Boivin and Raymond Yard join the ranks of its jeweled peers created by Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Bulgari. Here are my standout favorites from the sale:

    Unique Jewels by Ostier, Claflin Among Highlights at Sotheby’s April Magnificent Jewels Sale Next week, Sotheby's shifts its spring season into full gear with its first Magnificent Jewels sale in New York on April 19th.

#Bulgari #Cartier #Castellani #Donald Claflin #J.E. Caldwell #Jean Schlumberger #Marianne Ostier #Ostier #Raymond Yard #René Boivin #Schlumberger #Seaman Schepps #Suzanne Belperron #Tiffany & Co. #Van Cleef & Arpels

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Diamonds at Auction: Battle of the Blues

Diamonds at Auction: Battle of the Blues

Roses are red and exceptionally rare diamonds are blue, and this spring’s auctions will offer a trio of historic blue diamonds. Riding the record-setting wave of the “Blue Moon of Josephine” sale at Sotheby’s last November, the auction house and its rival Christie’s have made blue diamonds the headlining lots of three upcoming Magnificent Jewels sales. The “De Beers Millennium Jewel 4”, an…

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#blue diamonds #Blue Moon of Josephine #Christie&039;s #De Beer Millennium Jewel 4 #Hope Diamond #Oppenheimer Blue #Shirley Temple Blue #Sotheby&039;s #Wittelsbach-Graff #Zoe Diamond

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Treasures from TEFAF Maastricht 2016

Treasures from TEFAF Maastricht 2016

The final stop of my two months of travel, Maastricht promised to be the cherry on top of all the destinations. In this pastoral town nestled between Belgium and Germany in the southeast of the Netherlands, Maastricht is widely known for the treaty that takes its name, which ultimately gave birth to the European Union, European citizenship and the Euro. But, for a select few, Maastricht is…

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#Alessandra di Castro #Belperron #Cartier #Castellani #Epoque Fine Jewels #Fouquet #Hancocks #Hemmerle #Marjan Sterk #Mauboussin #René Boivin #S.J. Phillips #Sterlé #TEFAF 2016 #TEFAF Maastricht #Tony Duquette #Van Cleef & Arpels #van Kranendonk Duffels #Verdura #Wartski

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With more than 1,300 lots, Leslie Hindman’s upcoming Important Jewelry sale is arguably the largest spring jewelry auction of the bunch. The two day sale, scheduled for April 3rd and 4th, offers an impressively wide range – with multiples at every increment – of jewelry for every collector and budget. From a selection of lots with estimates under $100 to a couple of Type IIa five-plus carat diamonds with six-figure estimates, the mammoth sale hits all the price points any buyer could ask for.

A Fine Golconda-Type 5.94 Carat Octagonal Step Cut Diamond, measuring approximately 12.94 x 9.26 x 5.72 mm, accompanied by a yellow gold ring setting. Accompanied by a Gemological Institute of America diamond grading certificate number 7111040, dated December 7, 2015, stating Weight: 5.94 carats, Color: D, Clarity: Internally Flawless, Polish: Very Good, Symmetry: Good, Fluorescence: None. Estimate: $275,000-325,000

  At the top of the pyramid is a perfect octagonal step-cut diamond (est. $275,000-325,000), weighing 5.94 carats and graded D color, Internally Flawless clarity and identified as Type IIa (or Golconda-type). The sale also includes a second Type IIa diamond, a 5.99-carat octagonal step-cut stone of D color and VS1 clarity (est. $250,000-300,000). Like the legendary Golconda diamonds mined from the source these rare stones are named after in India, newer diamonds identified as Type IIa exhibit the same purity as the old Golconda diamonds and comprise less than 2 percent of all gem diamonds.

A Fine Golconda-Type Diamond and Ruby Ring, containing one octagonal step cut diamond weighing approximately 5.99 carats, six baguette cut diamonds weighing approximately 0.67 carat total and square and rectangular mixed cut rubies weighing approximately 0.64 carat total. Accompanied by a Gemological Institute of America diamond grading certificate number 2175330514, dated September 29, 2015, stating Weight: 5.99 carats, Color: D, Clarity: VS1 with a comment that this stone is potentially flawless, Polish: Good, Symmetry: Good, Fluorescence: None. Estimate: $250,000-350,000

  As to be expected of all jewelry auctions, the sale features a selection of impressive colorless diamonds as well as a handful of colored diamonds in hues like Fancy Bluish Green, Fancy Intense Green, Chameleon and Fancy Deep Pink-Purple. Important loose colored gemstones also count among the highlights in the sale, including a 5.03-carat Padparadscha sapphire (est. $20,000-30,000), a 104.27-carat tanzanite (est. $18,000-22,000), a 3.01-carat pigeon’s blood Burmese ruby (est. $10,000-15,000), a 2.51-carat alexandrite (est. $7,000-9,000), and a 429.28 golden beryl (est. $4,500-6,500).

measuring approximately 10.80 x 8.42 x 6.71 mm. Accompanied by a German Foundation for Gemstone Research (DSEF) gemstone report number 024710, dated July 30, 2015, Stating: Natural Corundum, Variety: Natural Padparadscha, Weight: 5.03 Carats, Origin: Sri Lanka, Comments: No indications of heat (NTE). Estimate: $20,000-30,000

  Moreover loose gems and important diamonds, the sale boasts a number of exceptional jewels – both signed and unsigned – from the Victorian period to present day. In fact, the very first lot in the sale are among the most interesting of all the highlights. The first lot is a pair of Victorian yellow and rose gold bracelets (est. $3,000-5,000), circa 1870, signed by Tiffany & Co. and stamped Union Square, and accompanied by a fitted original box also signed “Tiffany & Co. Union Square”. In 1869, Charles Lewis Tiffany commissioned John Kellum to design the building that would become Tiffany’s 19th century headquarters at 15 Union Square West. From the day it opened in 1870 until moving uptown in 1906, the store was described as “the largest of its kind devoted to this business of any in the world” and dubbed the “palace of jewels” by the New York Times.

A Pair of Victorian Yellow and Rose Gold Bracelets, Circa 1870, Tiffany & Co., Union Square, attributed to Tiffany & Co., consisting of two matching hinged bangle bracelets in yellow gold each accented with intricately textured yellow and rose gold detail realistically depicting vines and leaves, the foliate motif centrally surmounted with intricate rose gold openwork monograms, the bracelets measuring approximately 31.00 mm wide. Accompanied by a fitted by signed Tiffany & Co. Union Square. Estimate: $3,000-5,000

  Displaying the ingenuity of the French high jewelry house Van Cleef & Arpels, the firm’s iconic mystery-setting seamlessly sparkles in a pair of sapphire and diamond ‘Campanule’ earclips (est. $50,000-70,000) and matching brooch (est. $50,000-70,000). The mystery-setting originated in the late 1920s but became synonymous with Van Cleef & Arpels by 1933 after the Parisian jeweler patented their technique and began producing jewels incorporating their ‘Serti-mysterieux’ technique with abandon. The two ‘Campanule’ pieces were made by the renowned New York firm Oscar Heyman Brothers, who made a number of commissioned jewels for Van Cleef & Arpels as well as other high jewelry houses.

A Pair of Platinum, Diamond and Mystery Set Sapphire Campanule Earclips, Van Cleef & Arpels – Estimate: $50,000-70,000 and A Platinum, Diamond and Mystery Set Sapphire Campanule Brooch, Van Cleef & Arpels – Estimate: $50,000-70,000

  Several other important jewels by Van Cleef & Arpels in the sale include a pair of emerald and diamond convertible Day/Night earclips (est. $65,000-85,000), circa 1960; a diamond and tsavorite garnet bangle bracelet (est. $125,000-175,000), set with six tsavorite garnets totaling 15.16 carats, and a matching ring (est. $35,000-55,000) set with a 6.84-carat tsavorite garnet; and a suite of multi-colored diamond and diamond jewels – an ‘Ode Printemps’ bracelet (est. $70,000-90,000), a pair of ‘Aquarelle Century Collection’ earrings (est. $70,000-90,000), and a ‘Century’ necklace (est. $35,000-55,000).

  Worthy of mention, too, are two jewels set with Montana sapphires. Known for their cornflower blue color and high uniform clarity, Montana sapphires were first discovered in 1865. They were not widely valued at first but became more appreciated after Tiffany began incorporating the precious, ‘home-grown’ stones in their jewelry in the early 20th century. One of the lots is an important Belle Époque bracelet (est. $75,000-100,o00) featuring seven square step-cut Yogo Gulch Montana sapphires altogether weighing 10.60 total carats. The second jewel in the sale to display the beauty of Montana sapphires is a butterfly brooch (est. $6,000-8,000), by Marcus & Co., which is set with 79 old European and rose-cut diamonds and 152 round mixed-cut Montana sapphires in silver topped gold.

  Additional favorites from the sale include: a diamond and sapphire spray brooch, Harry Winston, circa 1966 (est. $60,000-80,000); a Colombian emerald and diamond ring, Tiffany & Co. (est. $30,000-50,000); a Retro ruby, diamond and sapphire brooch, Van Cleef & Arpels (est. $6,000-8,000); a Retro ruby and diamond quiver brooch, Cartier, Paris (est. $3,000-5,000); a diamond, emerald and ruby ring, Buccellati (est. $3,000-5,000); an aquamarine Turban ring, Verdura (est. $3,000-5,000); a Victorian Grand Tour micromosaic bracelet (est. $2,000-3,000) set with six plaques depicting classical Roman architecture; a pair of gold, platinum and diamond pendant earclips, Cartier, French (est. $2,000-3,000); and a yellow gold minimalist sculptural pendant, John Henry, circa mid-1970’s (est. $1,500-2,500).

  Golconda-Type Diamonds and Signed Jewels Headline Leslie Hindman’s Important Jewelry Sale With more than 1,300 lots, Leslie Hindman's upcoming Important Jewelry sale is arguably the largest spring jewelry auction of the bunch.

#Buccellati #Cartier #Harry Winston #John Henry #Marcus & Co. #Tiffany & Co. #Van Cleef & Arpels #Verdura

[jewelsdujour]

The Shirley Temple Blue Diamond to Twinkle at Sotheby's

The Shirley Temple Blue Diamond to Twinkle at Sotheby’s

For millions of Americans, the name Shirley Temple elicits cheerful memories of the sweet innocence of childhood. The famous child star, who was born on April 23, 1928, has delighted children with her cheerful can-do attitude in the movies she starred in nearly a century ago. Her first role in Stand Up and Cheer!, which premiered in 1934, catapulted the young starlet into the national spotlight.…

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#Shirley Temple Blue Diamond #Sotheby&039;s

[jewelsdujour]

The spring auction season is officially under way and Bonhams will ease into the year with its California Jewels sale this Monday, March 21st. The 400-plus lot sale comprises an accessible spread of jewelry spanning more than a century of design, with the majority of estimates under $5,000.

A carved coral, emerald and 18k gold flower necklace, Trio (est. $3,000 – 5,000)

  The variety of affordable jewels in the sale, whose highest estimated lot tops out at $18,000, encompasses a sampling from nearly every important period as well as collectible designs from the leading fine jewelry houses (most with estimates of $1,500 to 3,000). Bulgari? Check. Buccellati? Check. Cartier? Check. Tiffany & Co., Van Cleef & Arpels, David Webb? Check, check and check! What’s more, the sale features unique pieces from independent designers from the 1960s to contemporary, such as Kurt Wayne, Kutchinsky, Elizabeth Gage, Stephen Webster and Denise Robergé.

A carved citrine, diamond, rock crystal and 18k gold lion brooch, Stephen Webster, 2001 (est. $2,000 – 3,000)

  My favorite jewel in the sale is, without a doubt, a sculpted gold squirrel ring by Kurt Wayne, circa 1969 (est. $1,200 – 1,800). The realistically composed critter, with its three-dimensional design, is even cuter in person, sitting curiously atop the finger when worn.

An 18k gold and ruby squirrel ring, Kurt Wayne, 1969 (est. $1,200 – 1,800)

  In close second is another animal jewel, this one a necklace with a pendant designed as a succession of three adorable elephants composed of lapis lazuli, coral and tiger’s eye, by Van Cleef & Arpels (est. $3,500 – 5,000). Also notable from Van Cleef & Arpels is a single Alhambra motif bracelet in lapis lazuli (est. $2,000 – 3,000)

A hardstone, coral, diamond and 18k gold elephant necklace, Van Cleef & Arpels (est. $3,500 – 5,000)

  Other notable lots include a lovely carved coral and emerald flower necklace, by Trio (est. $3,000 – 5,000); an Egyptian Revival gem-set hardstone cameo brooch, French, circa 1880 (est. $3,000 – 5,000); a playful lapis lazuli and gold fringe necklace (est. $1,000 – 1,500); a beautifully made diamond and gold bracelet, French (est. $3,000 – 5,000); an interesting carved citrine, diamond and rock crystal lion brooch, by Stephen Webster, 2001 (est. $2,000 – 3,000); a glass and metal ‘Biches’ brooch, by Lalique, circa 1912 (est. $2,000 – 3,000); and a lapis lazuli and diamond pendant brooch, by Kutchinsky, London, circa 1971 (est. $3,000 – 5,000).

It is refreshing to browse a sale that is stocked with interesting, wearable and well-priced pieces instead of diamond after diamond. Appealing to the casual nature of California cool, this West Coast sale gets Bonhams off to a breezy start for the spring jewelry auction season.

Affordable Finds in Bonhams California Jewels Sale The spring auction season is officially under way and Bonhams will ease into the year with its…

#Elizabeth Gage #Kurt Wayne #Kutchinsky #Lalique #Stephen Webster #Trio #Van Cleef & Arpels

[jewelsdujour]

China's Shifting Demand Hits March Hong Kong International Jewellery Show

China’s Shifting Demand Hits March Hong Kong International Jewellery Show

Hong Kong is a sight for soaring eyes, a place where pictures barely do the never-ending vertical landscape justice. Touching down in the Far East capital of commerce two weeks ago, my eyes scaled the towering skyscrapers that continuously streamed by during my drive from the airport to my hotel. The army of high rises painted the horizon of the night sky with their colorful lights shining in…

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#Betteridge #Ernst Faerber #Excalibur #Hong Kong International Jewellery Show #Thomas Faerber

[jewelsdujour]

Globetrotting for Jewelry - My Recent Travels Around the World

Globetrotting for Jewelry – My Recent Travels Around the World

The dust has finally settled after my epic near-circumnavigation of the globe over the past few weeks. From the Colorado Rockies to the islands of Hong Kong to the pastoral Dutch countryside surrounding Maastricht, I have seen the diverse beauty of our planet in a very short period thanks to my love of jewelry. As I return to regular posting, I would be remiss not to share a few of my photos…

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[jewelsdujour]

Hemmerle to Debut The [AL] Project & New Stand at TEFAF 2016

Hemmerle to Debut The [AL] Project & New Stand at TEFAF 2016

From dazzling delectable delights to mesmerizing jewels of the Nile, Hemmerle knows no bounds when it comes to inspiration for its special jewelry collections. For its latest unique series, Hemmerle explores the diverse characteristics of aluminum in The [AL] Project. Hemmerle earrings, diamonds, aluminium, copper, gold. Photo courtesy of Hemmerle.   Like modern day alchemists, Hemmerle’s highly…

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#Hemmerle #TEFAF #TEFAF 2016 #The [AL] Project

[jewelsdujour]

Recap of the Palm Beach Jewelry, Art & Antique Show

Recap of the Palm Beach Jewelry, Art & Antique Show

After a quick trip home, I was back in south Florida last week working at the Palm Beach Jewelry, Art & Antique Show for Betteridge. The annual event hosted a long list of leading exhibitors in jewelry, as well as art and antiques as its name suggests, from around the globe, including Betteridge, Camilla Dietz Bergeron, Didier, Fred Leighton, M.S. Rau Antiques, Macklowe Gallery, Pat Saling,…

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#Betteridge #Chanel #Fred Leighton #J.E. Caldwell #Macklowe Gallery #Palm Beach Show #Pat Saling #Richters of Palm Beach #Steinitz #Suzanne Syz #Van Cleef & Arpels

[jewelsdujour]

Pretty pink antique earrings - perfect for Valentine's Day! @macklowegallery #palmbeachshow #pinktopaz #diamond #antiqueearrings #valentinesdayjewels

#pinktopaz #valentinesdayjewels #diamond #antiqueearrings #palmbeachshow

[jewelsdujour]

Mad for Marchak 💖💚✨ @betteridge1897 #betteridgeestatejewelry #marchak #saturdaysparkle

#saturdaysparkle #betteridgeestatejewelry #marchak