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Fighting Fire with Fire

The syndicates and traffickers certainly cooperate and network. They appeal to the public sector for protection of their activities through corrupt bribery payments. They employ the latest high tech gadgetry to facilitate trade. Languages, borders, laws, regulations, technology, logistics- none of these factors are seen by traffickers as show-stoppers. Instead, the traffickers view such obstacles as opportunities, a means to add value, for by circumventing such obstacles quickly, the syndicates may gain a competitive advantage and charge higher prices for the goods in the flow of trade. Moreover, the traffickers do not copy only one brand, they generally copy all of the dominant “hot” brands in each industry sector. It is not unusual to find a counterfeiting operation trading in fake Levi Strauss, Calvin Klein, Dickies, Wrangler and/or Ecko branded jeans all at the same time, or trading in mixed batches of fake Viagra®, Cialis® and Levitra®, the three leading branded erectile dysfunction drugs. It would seem unthinkable for natural competitors such as Pfizer, Eli Lilly and Glaxo Smithkline (GSK) to ever cooperate on matters of commercial importance, and in many jurisdictions, anti-collusion or competition laws create tension hindering any effort for competitors to cooperate to solve an industry-wide problem. But to truly fight fire with fire, industry cooperation is needed. This type of cooperation allows for better use of shared resources, technology, networks, intelligence and support of law enforcement.

Consumers have an important role to play because they have the ability to vote with their dollars to support socially conscious and responsible companies. Kelly advised consumers to become educated shoppers and know how to recognize fakes through the “Three Ps”:

Package: Look at the quality of the product and its packaging. Watch for things like poor stitching, incorrectly spelled brand names or logos, etc.

Price: If the price is too good to be true, it probably is.

Place: Brand name products are sold in stores or through the official company Web site, not on the streets or open air markets.

“Rights owners, law enforcement, governments, consumers: all have a role to play in suppressing this insidious attack on our economy and way of life. The perpetrators and collaborators count on the apathy of bystanders and victims to view their crimes as harmless activity. Their very ability to continue the pernicious trade depends in large part on the silent complicity of the individual consumer who buys the knockoff.  Armed with awareness of the consequences of such purchasing on an aggregate scale, social conscience and consumer protest reaches a critical mass. Examples of social movements that have generated real change abound: apartheid, labor movements, universal suffrage, civil rights, debt relief, Live Aid, and even smaller scale niche reform areas like  PETA, dolphin safe tuna and the ASPCA. None of these reforms would have been possible if socially conscious persons had not rallied to English philosopher Edmund Burke’s famous call, “the only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing.”

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Trafficking in Fakes in the Era of Globalisation

Trafficking in illicit goods includes, but is not limited to counterfeit goods. Many criminal organizations consciously manage risk by diversifying their portfolios of illegal activities, spreading investments and resources across a range of high risk activities, such as the narcotics and arms trades, to lower risk enterprises such as human trafficking, and trade in counterfeit and pirate goods. China is overwhelmingly accepted as the leading manufacturing source for many of the counterfeit goods encountered on the market. Less conspicuous, but with a relatively disproportionate importance, is the role of Thailand, which also has historically been identified as a leading source of fakes around the world, along with other hubs in Eastern Europe, the Middle East, Sub-Saharan Africa and Latin America.

In some cases, the threat posed by counterfeiting manifests itself in horrific public health hazards (pharmaceuticals, foodstuffs, spirits, cosmetics, automotive parts and other components where consumer safety is at risk due to substandard counterfeits). In other cases, threats to national security have been investigated, given suspicions that the proceeds of the trade in counterfeit goods funds organized crime and even terrorism.

The role of many countries in the global counterfeiting trade is evolving. Despite the popular image of carnival-like street markets and vendor stalls throughout urban centers from Bangkok to New York, from Rio de Janiero to Amsterdam, and other tourist areas overflowing with cheap knockoffs ranging from shirts to sneakers to watches to sunglasses to handbags, the real problem is much more sophisticated than the so-called victimless crime historically tolerated by the average person, who would view sales of counterfeit goods as more of a “mom and pop” activity.

Many countries have become specialist producers in several highly developed industries which are supported by domestic economic policy and foreign direct investment, such as for example, in pharmaceuticals, (India), electronics (Taiwan), the automotive sector (Thailand) and optical discs (Malaysia). Other countries have a particular knack for logistics and has become regional hubs for the trans-shipment and export of fakes.

The challenges confronting law enforcement and IPR owners in detecting and interdicting shipments of counterfeit goods in the era of globalization are daunting. The sheer volume of international trade historically made it physically impossible for law enforcement officials to inspect, let alone seize, any significant percentage of the overall volume of trade in fakes. Moreover, priorities and resources are focused more on what is justifiably seen as the more important problems at the border: security, weapons trafficking, illegal immigration, narcotics smuggling, etc. Technology, particularly the internet, has facilitated trade in fakes by quickly and inexpensively matching willing sellers and buyers, who take calculated risks (and who take care to minimize the risks) of detection of the transactions by law enforcement.

No one company can go it alone when it comes to meaningful enforcement against counterfeiting. Nor can any one government acting alone make any significant progress in suppressing the trade in fakes, although law, policy and the political will to enforce the law does go a long way. However, recent experience suggests that models based on industry cooperation, sharing of costs and intelligence, public-private sector partnerships, and international collaboration between law enforcement agencies, together with more and better use of technology and networking can have a dramatic impact on the global problem. These models are derived essentially from the need to fight fire with fire. The organized criminal syndicates involved in counterfeiting employ the same tactics to make easy profits from the trade in fakes.

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Suppressing Demand: Counterfeiting is not a victimless crime

Most people who purchase knock-off Louis Vuitton luggage probably don’t associate their new wares with child labor or slaves chained to sewing machines. But that’s exactly what consumers are supporting when they buy these items. Aside from economic problems such as lost sales, profits and tax revenues, the emotionally compelling element of counterfeiting is the systematic exploitation of labor. You have slaves and children 11, 12, 13 year old kids working in these sweatshop conditions. They are not treated as human beings. They are cogs in a machine to be used up, worn out and thrown away.

Consumer demand for cheap knock-offs is one root of the problem, a very difficult root to cut out entirely. In developing countries, the argument is often made that it is difficult to criticize a poor person who buys a fake handbag or polo shirt when he/she is targeted with sophisticated advertisements to the effect that one’s social status is dependent on the brand of accessory or clothing one wears. When self-esteem is linked to branding, it seems harsh to judge the person who cannot afford a $400 watch when he/she buys a $35 copy just to feel good. However, if that same person were more aware of the macro-economic effect of his/her purchase of that fake watch or handbag, there might be second thoughts. If the consumer were made aware that the dollars spent on the knock-off actually supported organized crime, child and/or slave labor, and possibly even terrorism, that consumer might consider that there is more to counterfeiting than simply ripping off rich companies like Nike or Gucci. In this sense, like the demand problem we struggle with in the national war on drugs, public awareness and education of the consequences of purchasing activity reveals itself as the only viable strategy to reduce demand for fakes.

While the losses caused by counterfeiting in monetary terms alone are daunting enough, the threat is not merely an economic crime. Counterfeiting presents as a social problem as well, because the organizations behind counterfeiting operations pay no taxes, obey no laws, support organized crime, contribute to official corruption, often employ child and illegal immigrant (and in some cases, slave) labor and generally have no social conscience (or fear of liability) when it comes to the dangers posed to consumers by the low quality, even dangerous, fake goods they inject into global trade. Counterfeiting is not an isolated activity, it is usually heavily associated with organized crime, as well as drug trafficking, prostitution and sexual slavery.

Many uneducated young people and children are lured into slavery under false pretenses, told they’ll be working in construction or as nannies or maids in someone’s home, only to find themselves enslaved by black market manufacturers. According to statistics in studies such as Dr Moises Naim’s Illicit and Kevin Bales’ Disposable People: New Slavery in the Global Economy, tens of millions people worldwide are trapped in bondage, a modern day slave trade which is on a scale much larger than anything seen four centuries ago when 12 million African saves were trafficked to the New World. This, according to former US Secretary of State General Colin Powell, is “incomprehensible” in the 21st Century.

One question often asked by critics of globalization is this: What’s the difference between these kingpins of organized crime engaged in counterfeiting and ordinary companies that make authentic clothes sold at places like Wal-Mart and Target, not to mention everything else imported from China? Aren’t both groups exploiting poor labor? In fact, the difference is like night and day. Primarily, the  corporations can be and often are held accountable for any abuses. They abide by ILO fair labor standards, provide benefits, scholarships, micro-finance and real training in addition to a living wage. When and if labor abuses are brought to light, companies face plummeting share prices and boycotts.

Moreover socially responsible companies are keen to develop, rather than simply exploit, the people and resources of the third world. Nike, for example, has since 2000 operated the Nike Village Development Project in Thailand as part of the Thailand Business Initiative for Rural Development to extend micro-credit to small businesses and provide job options far more appealing than the atrocious alternatives of commercial sex for young females and a life in the underground economy for males. Thinking globally and acting locally, a simple bumper sticker phrase, works wonders.

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The Fake sneaker Capital - China

PUTIAN, China — After the sun sets in Putian, thousands of bikes carrying fake sneakers hit the streets.

The lace-up black market is no secret in Putian, and it's where you can find Chan, a vendor with a knack for getting high-quality pairs off the streets and into the hands of hypebeasts on the other side of the globe.

With rubber, he struck gold.

"I've spoken to some of our customers — some of them are high school students, some are college students, university students. So yeah, these are our main crowd generally," Chan told VICE News. "It's usually the kids themselves who are very resourceful. They understand about replicas; they understand that these are high-quality sneakers and they come finding you saying, 'Hey, I'd like to buy some high-quality replicas from you."

While many vendors are subject to police raids and potential lawsuits, Chan has been able to stay afloat. These days, the only thing slowing his business down is nitpicky sneakerheads.

"Unfortunately, it's just the hard-and-fast rules of doing business. You meet difficult customers. You'll meet cheaters, you meet scammers who will be out there to cheat you off a pair of shoes," Chan said. "So, unfortunately, this kind of thing happens, especially when you're on a public domain like the internet."

VICE News met up with Chan at his headquarters to see how his business is racing ahead.

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Should Custom Sneakers Be Considered Fakes?

The world of sneakers is filled with great debates. The Jordan III or the Jordan IV? The Air Max 90 or the Air Max 95? Adi or Rudi? Some, like those just mentioned, are questions of subjective taste. Opinions fly, fans defend favorites, and the fire that burns so deeply in many of us (that thing that makes us love sneakers) is stoked.

While arguments about brands and colorways and models are relatively subdued, there are far more polarizing sneaker topics. For example, a friend recently texted me this query: “Are custom sneakers any different than fakes?”

A particular custom, a “Burger” Gel Lyte III comes to mind—a copy of End’s collaborative Saucony, albeit on a different silhouette. The answer, given that instance, is clearly no: Custom sneakers are no better than fakes.

C2 Customs, some years ago, produced a rather witty Tech Challenge accented AF1. It was pretty awesome, in no way a fake, and totally piqued interest in the potential to personalize a pedestrian pair of white on whites.

How is this case different from that “Burger Gel Lyte III,” or even C2’s own hybrid conception of the BAPE Energy BOOST? There’s nuance to the question. There’s an odd double play in which gut reaction is easily dismissed by some deeper consideration.

Last week, art critic Jerry Saltz tweeted the following, “Artists: Get fucking over it. Stop making art about art. #DeadFuckingEnd.”

Customs, like them or not, are a crucial part of contemporary sneaker culture. Guys like C2 and Mache and others (names here are not particularly relevant as the intent is not to champion or attack anyone) make some pretty cool stuff. They also place their work on increasingly valuable shoes. Models once off limits—Jordans and Yeezys—are now ripe for reworking. This alone speaks to the embrace of custom sneakers amongst connoisseurs. (Or, is it simply marking the end of a specific model?) The quest for exclusive gets ever more arduous each passing day—NikeID and Miadidas never helping—so customs continue to offer an avenue of real expression.

That’s the key, right? A consumer contacts an artist and through discussion of likes and dislikes, desires and wants, comes to a decision about the custom he or she wants. A one of a kind offering. Or, a particular vision of luxury. All good. Yet, when a custom becomes too overtly about sneaker culture there’s an inherent failure of creativity. It is, ultimately, a dead end—to both artistic talent and individual expression.

Pete Williams, EiC of Highsnobiety.com, recently tweeted, “When people put a Bentley B on a Chrysler 300.”

For sneakerheads, that statement might read, “When people put a Supreme print on a Roshe Run.”

Like a riff on an BAPE or End collaboration, any Supreme-inspired creation is polarizing. On some level, the enterprise is neatly subversive: Sold out? Who cares, I CAN have what I want...or, at least, an approximation. Similarly, the production remains antithetical to the notion of AUTHENTICITY.

What, in customs, is real? What, if anything, deserves recognition separating this genre of sneakers from the consistent flow of limited colorways and themed releases? What, ultimately, constitutes creativity.

At worst, customs dance a dangerous dutty wine.

At best, customs influence the future of those previously mentioned limited colorways and themed releases.

The people behind the great customs are undeniably talented. There’s no room for debate. However, it remains a talent that sadly doesn’t transcend its narrow space. When executed at the top of the class, customs exude an exemplary convergence of artistry and craft. Shoes are broken down and repieced to realize final products of genius invention, pushing the boundary of sneaker design and giving voice to pairs without peer.

However, champions of authenticity will claim the pairs are “unauthorized,” shooting down success by labeling the design subordinate to the original. Is it fair? Is the argument simply circular, answered by the age old “just wear what you like?”

Is it possible to reconcile one “Bentley B on a Chrysler 300” (C2’s Tech Challenge AF1) and completely deny another (a “Burger” Gel Lyte III)? Or, is it better to flat out decry customs all together? Can there be a happy middle ground? Even trying to form a cohesive argument about customs presents a double edged sword.

Of all the sneaker world’s subsets, the custom community is among the most vibrant. Assessing its eb and flow is essential to understanding the aesthetic pulse of our world. While sales figures are helpful, the unhindered creative endeavors of people squarely in the thick of it all broadens the picture. Customizers are unsung heroes, only occasionally (ex. Mache Customs “UCONN” Kobe 9 for Gino Auriemma) working with brands.

Distilling the question (customs are fakes) in this way offers the best conclusion: No, customs are not fakes. Or variants. Or, for that matter, a scourge on sneaker culture. Instead, good or bad, customs give voice to us—the people that live for sneakers, the folks who buy without regard for Instagram likes or resale value.

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How to Tell If Your Expensive Sneakers Are Fakes

If you’re going to spend $1,300 on Yeezys, let Yu-Ming Wu take a look at them first

Yu-Ming Wu couldn’t afford his own sneakers until he got to college. Growing up in New York as the child of Chinese immigrants who had to work in sweatshops and restaurants, Ming never asked his parents for a sneaker allowance.

Now Wu has 900 piece sneaker collection and is one of the cofounders of Sneaker Con, which is self proclaimed the “greatest sneaker show on Earth.” The show just went international, hitting up a bunch of new locations, and drawing in a lot more people. But with thousands of people reselling sneakers, there are bound to be some fakes. So Wu decided to start a sneaker authentication program where customers at Sneaker Con could get shoes verified before they drop a couple grand on them.

VICE caught up with Yu-Ming Wu at Sneaker Con Toronto to find out more about the show, the authentication program and how to spot the fakes.

VICE: So you have a Sneaker Con authentication program, tell me, what is sneaker authentication? Yu-Ming Wu: It’s not an official job but we do help some of our attendees figure out whether a shoe is authentic or not. Especially some of the younger kids coming in, they don’t know whether they’re getting a real shoe or fake shoes so it’s not a huge problem but they still want to have that peace of mind, that “Hey, I did buy a legit shoe.” We just help people making exchanges to know that they are getting a legit shoe.

What motivated you to start the sneaker authentication program at Sneaker Con? A few years ago, we had a kid who bought a pair of shoes and it turned out they were fake. He came up to us crying, that’s when we realized we had a problem. We ended up refunding him that money, took the shoe and used it as an example of what we need to do at Sneaker Con.

Is it a really big problem, fakes? At Sneaker Con it’s not a big problem. We do have one or two. There are guys who see this as an opportunity, you go to anything like this where there are high value goods, someone’s going to try to rip you off.

Can you walk me through the process of authenticating a sneaker, what are you looking for? So one of the first things that we do is actually look at the box. This is a well constructed box. We look at the printing. It’s really well printed, everything is printed sharp, everything seems to be where it should be. We look at that first and then we look at the rest of the construction of the box. While this box is a little beat up it is still good in terms of what it should look like. We look at the labels, make sure all of the numbers and everything else matchup. Sometimes these numbers actually do not match up, or things might be misprinted. The labels are a hard one to say because different countries have different labels, so we don’t generally use it but we do look at the number to make sure it’s the right number.

And I can see the price tag there too. Yes, this is actually a very pricey shoe, it’s very high value. Obviously when someone is paying for this shoe they want to get it authenticated. So we look at the box first, everything looks legit to me so far. But again, someone can just switch a shoe in there. So then what we do is we take the shoe out, put down the box. First thing we do is look at the construction of the shoe, make sure it feels right. Another thing that we do is we take a sniff.

A lil’ shoe sniff? We take a sniff, as long as it hasn’t been worn. We make sure that there’s no toxic glues, a lot of the big companies, especially Nike and Adidas, they don’t use toxic glues anymore. If you smell it, and it smells pretty toxic — something’s wrong. That’s an easy sign. We also looking the laces, the stitching. Everything looks pretty legit, it’s even. With some of the fake ones the stitching is a bit crooked. And then we look at the sole. There’s no misprint, there’s no jagged edges. Everything is sharp, everything is clean. So for the most part we know that the shoe is real. It’s easy to tell. We also look at how well it’s glued together, with some of the fake factories some of the glue might be coming out. If this was a bad shoe and it was mocked as a “B” grade, we would look on the inside where it would say “B” grade.

We look at the logos too make sure they’re printed well, the stitching again. At some point they might have gotten some of this right but on some level the fake factories just can’t get it right because they don’t have the quality assurance and the high end machines the legitimate factories do have. Legit factories invest millions in terms of their production values. These fake factories, they don’t have that money to invest in high level production. So that’s how we legitimately check the shoe, and from the eye we can tell “this guy is real.” I’m touching it too, it feels right in my hand, but that’s from years of experience. As we get into the high end pieces that’s when we have to look at everything, we have to take out the insole, we have to look at the labels and make sure everything is correct. After all those checks we’ll tag it up and say this is a legit shoe.

So you’re using sight, touch, smell—human senses. So there’s also room for human error, how do you explain that to somebody who says “this doesn’t sound good enough”? I would then ask them to bring me a fake and show them the differences. Until they say I have a fake and this looks exactly like a fake I’m going to say “we’re right, we have years of experience doing this.” That’s all we can say, if they’ve made up their mind that this is not legit there’s not much we can do. We can take them back to the Adidas factory and say “hey guys can you verify?”

Have you ever seen a shoe you couldn’t authenticate? Yeah, sometimes we get shoes that are just so old that we don’t have anything to compare it to. Or other times the shoes that are so limited edition that we have never seen or don’t have a shoe to compare it to. So really old, or very limited edition.

What do you say to someone who justifies buying a fake by saying “it looks the same but it costs a lot less? That person has made up their mind that they’re comfortable with buying a fake. They’re happy with it. I personally would prefer if they buy a shoe that has been knocked off instead of completely counterfeited. “Knocked off” means it would just be from a lower end brand. That’s what I can tell that person, but if they’re happy about buying a fake there’s not much we can do to change their mind. But we’ll do our best to educate them on why they shouldn’t be buying fakes.

Why should people not buy fakes? It doesn’t make sense to buy a fake. You’re supporting counterfeit factories, you’re supporting crooks and criminals. Criminal enterprises. And who know what those guys do with that money?

What makes a good authenticator? As I mentioned it’s the guys who’ve worked in the industry for years. They’ve touched so many shoes over the course of their life that they can just look at a shoe and be like “oh man that’s a fake.” Without batting an eye. Those are the guys who make good authenticators.

Which sneaker is knocked off the most? The Air Jordan line, still one of the most knocked off shoes because of their long heritage and their value. A lot of Yeezys too because of their value and they’re limited edition. So Jordans, Yeezys, NMDs, Ultra Boosts.

How did you develop these skills and how do you keep up with the market? I’ve been in the industry for 17 years, over the years I’ve just looked at these shoes, touched them and over the years its like you take a microscope and look at these guys. A lot of times when you see a fake you just know, there’s no way it’s real. There are times it can look really good, but that’s when you look at all the details.

How would you explain sneaker culture to someone who isn’t into it? You know anyone who really looks at a pair of shoes and says “oh my god, that’s a beautiful design,” it’s not just a functional accessory for them, it’s a work of art. To hear that from someone, that’s when you can say that guy’s probably a sneakerhead. We have a really high appreciation for sneakers. If you appreciate sneakers to the point of putting one on your trophy case, you’re very much a sneakerhead.

What’s your sneaker collection look like? It used to be pretty big, I used to have 1,300 to 1,400 pairs. I’ve slowly brought it down to 800 pairs, but it’s climbing back up. At this point I’m probably at 900 pairs.

Do you wear all of them? I probably wear 20 percent of my sneakers. The rest of them I treat as art.

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Meet the Teenager Who's Exposing Celebrities for Their Fake Yeezys

The counterfeit goods industry is worth more than a trillion dollars, and fake sneakers are a big part of that equation. When it comes to bootleg shoes, they’ve morphed from Air Jordans with Spongebob on them to near-identical Adidas Yeezy Boosts that can even fool discerning sneaker enthusiasts. Except for Yeezy Busta, a 19-year-old medical student from Los Angeles who runs an Instagram account that calls out celebrities and regular people.

Yeezy Busta, who prefers to keep his identity hidden due to legal ramifications and to preserve his privacy, first fell in love with Kanye West’s sneakers when Kanye wore them in Keri Hilson’s “Knock You Down” music video. He’s since garnered a social media following of nearly 190k Instagram followers and is viewed as a bona fide expert on whether a pair of Yeezys is real or fake. As expected, his account has become controversial, as he calls out people publicly for wearing bootleg sneakers, which has caused him to make friends and enemies along the way.

His passion for identifying legitimate footwear, however, started when he fell victim to owning a pair of fake sneakers himself. Since then he’s learned the ins and outs of what constitutes a real pair of Yeezys. We spoke to him on what it’s like to be the Internet’s authority on who’s wearing authentic sneakers or not and how to make sure you’re laced in nothing other than pairs straight from an Adidas factory.

How did you create the Yeezy Busta persona? There were a few kids in my high school who always showed off their fake Yeezys, and I thought it was funny. I don’t have a problem with people who want to wear fake shoes, just own it. They’d say, “I spent $1,000 on these. They’re real.” I’d call them out for lying. I was a fan of Fake Watch Busta. I first called out a few of my friends from high school and some random people I found on Instagram. I got a shout out from a big page and got on Complex the same day.

Who’s the most surprising person you’ve seen in fake Yeezys? Teyana Taylor, because she signed to Good Music. She was wearing fake “Turtle Dove” Yeezy Boost 350s. This was before “Fade,” but she’s the star of one of the biggest songs on The Life of Pablo. I caught Jackie Chan, Zac Efron. I caught Soulja Boy and there was a huge beef between me and him on WorldstarHipHop. One of my followers showed me that he posted a fake pair of Yeezys on his Instagram. He took the photo down a few minutes later. I called him out and he commented on my photo, “Nah, my shit’s real. You Photoshopped this photo.” I posted another photo and then he got angry. He ended up deleting the comments. He said he’s got millions on me and all of these followers. I said, “I don’t care you’re still wearing fake shoes.” He got interviewed by WSHH and said, “Fuck Yeezy Busta.” He then went to Flight Club and bought a real pair that day.

Have you had people threaten legal action over you calling them out? That’s why I stay anonymous. I’ve had people threaten to sue me, but they can’t because they don’t know what my name is. I’ve had people threaten me and say they’re going to ruin my life and get my page taken down. The people who unwillingly buy fakes are the ones who say, “I spent a lot of money on these, how can I get my money back?” The ones who willingly bought fakes are the ones who lash out. There was a billionaire from Indonesia who threatened lawsuits against me. He even sent me documents that he’s going to sue me. That’s why I stay anonymous, because if I’m going to be famous, I’d want it for doing something else. I love my fans and supporters, but when I go out in public I want to be myself.

How do you know sneakers are real or fake? I’m really meticulous, I notice the smallest things. I could tell what’s real and what’s fake. I’ve never been wrong, and I don’t call someone out unless I’m 100 percent sure. A fan sent me a pair of good fakes, so I could tell the difference. Ever since then, I’ve been lucky enough to get Yeezys every drop, as well as fake pairs, so I can tell what’s real and what’s fake.

What percentage of Yeezy photos online are real? I’ve seen Hypebeast post fake samples unknowingly. I get tagged 1,000 times a day in their friends or celebrity photos. They’re fake 7/10 times.

Do you have a relationship with Adidas? I’ve made friends over at Adidas and they take care of me, that’s all I’m allowed to say.

What do you think of Kanye supporting Donald Trump? I’m supportive and I’m a fan of his music, designing career, and everything he does. I think everyone’s entitled to their own political views, and if those are his, then so be it. I think he’s going through some sort of midlife crisis. If he is hanging out with Trump for his political views, I think that’s OK. If people don’t like that, I understand it. I think he may be doing it in a superficial way for attention, and it may not be the best idea. Donald Trump might be the most talked about person, but he’s not the most positively talked about person. He needs to spend time with his close friends.

What would you say to people who are getting early pairs? If it’s too good to be true, it’s too good to be true. If someone’s trying to sell you samples. 9/10 times they’re going to be fake. So few people can get their hands on samples. People who work on the Adidas design team would get thrown in jail if they sell the samples. My advice to people who want to be samples: Don’t do it unless you’re getting them from the man himself. If you want to be buy them early, be extremely skeptical. If it’s a week before the release, there’s a bigger chance they’re real. If it’s over a week early, don’t trust it. You have a better chance of getting a better deal on resale than presale. The “Oreos” were going for $2,000 before they came out on Flight Club. Now they’re $600.

What about samples that get posted on Instagram? From the friends I’ve been able to make at Adidas, I can say that 99 percent of them are fake. This might be a conspiracy, but from what I’ve heard the factories in China make a sample pair and someone from a gang or the mafia steal it, reproduce it, and call them “samples.” The fakes are so close to the originals, it’s hard to tell if it’s real unless you have a trained eye.

Have you seen fakes at stores?

I’ve seen fakes at Round Two Hollywood multiple times. I’ve tried to be nice to them about it. I’ve seen StockX posted a pic of really bad fake "Turtle Doves," and it said, “StockX, verified authenticity.” Unless you have a trained eye, you won’t be able to tell the difference.

[Ed. note: StockX's response to the claim of it having fake Yeezys on its site: "This particular shoe was not sold on StockX. A person not associated with StockX posted this picture on their Instagram account with the hashtag #StockX #VerifiedAuthentic. A member of our social media team - not authentication team - reposted that picture without checking to see if there was a StockX Authentication Tag in the picture (there wasn't) or if it had been sold on StockX (it hadn't). It was taken down ten minutes later. We agree with Yeezy Busta as to the ubiquity of fake Yeezys on the market. Since we began authenticating sneakers almost a year ago, we have prevented the resale of more fake Yeezys than any other sneaker brand."]

Have you turned this into a business?

I’ve started a few things that are separate from me. I tried to do $2 legit checks, and I got called an asshole. I got 2,000 DMs a day, so I don’t have time to look through them all. If I was getting paid, maybe I’d have time. I’ve been approached by iPhone applications and stores.

Have you met Kanye?

I’ve interacted with everyone that Kanye knows except him. There’s 10 million people in Los Angeles. There are 500 people who run the entertainment industry, you get to know a lot of people. I met Ibn Jasper through a friend of mine, I met Pusha T, Big Sean, but I haven’t met 2 Chainz. It’s a dream to meet Kanye. I don’t get starstruck, but that would be the one time I’d fan out.

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