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familycuisinee · 3 years

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The Art of Shrinking Boiled Wool in Tirol | Family Cuisine

A few years ago my wife inherited a button up 100% Merino Wool sweater from her mother, who had inherited it from her mother. Despite its old age the sweater looked great because 100% wool fabric is very durable and it had been well taken care of. So last month when my wife accidentally mixed it in with a load of laundry washed on hot and it came out half its original size she was pretty upset. She was so embarrassed that she swore she was never going to tell her mother what she did to grandma’s sweater. But when I looked at our 2-year-old daughter I realized this sweater still had a song to sing. Sure enough, the sweater fit her perfectly and since it was mommy’s sweater after all, she was none the happier to wear it - every day. <img src="https://ift.tt/3z93qVz" alt="2-year-old in a shrunken wool sweater" /> <img src="https://ift.tt/3k5xwp0" alt="2-year-old girl in a shrunken wool sweater" /> A shrunken wool garment, sometimes mistakenly referred to as “boiled wool” used to be a highly appreciated garment in the United States and in other cold climates. But, as Americans slipped into the ‘cheaper is better’ mentality and let practically all of our textiles be produced overseas, quality fabrics like these were lost. Wool itself has been largely replaced by oil based synthetic fibers like Nylon or polyester, not because they’re better mind you, but because they’re cheaper. Fortunately the art of shrinking wool garments hasn’t been lost entirely. In Austria, where we live and the stores are also full of clothes made in Asia, the art has nevertheless been preserved. And it’s not a surprise since they’ve been doing it here for centuries. The name for these garments is “Walk” (pronounced Valk) and it refers specifically to knitted wool garments shrunk by washing them with warm water. A process in german called, "Walken". Knitted doesn't imply hand knitted but means they are knitted as opposed to woven. The process is a bit more complicated than just chucking them in the wash because the amount a fabric shrinks is quite unpredictable. Even seemingly identical wool fabrics can shrink differently under the same conditions due to differences in diameter and crimp of the wool fibers. After all, wool is a natural fiber and not every sheep grows the same wool as the next one. Here is a fabric before and after shrinking. On the left is before and on the right is after: <img src="https://ift.tt/3hrOWds" alt="knitted wool fabric before being shrunk next to a shrunk knitted wool fabric" /> To learn more about “Walk” I recently visited “Tiroler Strick und Walk” located in you guessed it, Tirol, Austria. Nestled deep in the Alps, Tirol is also considered the home of Loden wool fabric, the brother if you will, of “Walk”. It is also a shrunken wool fabric but different than “Walk” because it is woven, not knitted, which makes it a bit denser and less stretchy. Unlike "Walk", Loden is shrunk with a little soap and hours of agitation or even pounding by wooden hammers which in addition to the warm water forges the fibers together. It’s no wonder Tirol is the home of so many wonderful shrunken wool fabrics when you consider the cold alpine climate and abundance of sheep. Here I am with the CEO of "Tiroler Strick und Walk", Herr Herbert Prösch, followed by a few of their jackets from 2016/17. <img src="https://ift.tt/38Y10yH" alt="Robert W. Stolz with CEO Herbert Prösch" /> <img src="https://ift.tt/3noV0ap" alt="boiled wool jacket from Tirol, Austria" /> <img src="https://ift.tt/3A0sAqO" alt="shrunken wool jacket from Tirol" /><img src="https://ift.tt/3AbG4QQ" alt="boiled wool sweater from Tirol, Austria" /><img src="https://ift.tt/3A58N9P" alt="gray wool jacket from Tiroler Strick und Walk" /> “Tiroler Strick und Walk” has been perfecting the art of shrinking wool fabrics into garments since 1955, although the tradition dates back to the Middle Ages. They use 100% wool yarn to make warm, durable & stylish jackets perfect for the cold and/or wet Alpine climate. The reason Austrians have been making and wearing “Walk” since the Middle Ages is because it takes all the amazing qualities of wool and compounds them, kind of like wool on steroids. Here is some yarn being drawn off its spools into the knitting machine: <img src="https://ift.tt/3noUVDD" alt="wool yarn on spools being drawn into knitting machine" /> <img src="https://ift.tt/2XbOh8G" alt="knitting machine" /> We already know that from a functional and environmental perspective wool fabrics are second to none. Not only do they regulate your temperature better than synthetic or plant fibers because of their insulating ability, they are also totally green, (organic, renewable & sustainable). Their special insulating ability comes from the crimp in wool fibers and the microscopic scales on the fibers that together create tiny air pockets in the fabric. The crimp is how the fiber zig-zags unlike say Nylon which is straight and smooth. When wool fabric is made into either a “Walk” or a “Loden” the scales hook onto each other and the fibers intertwine because of the crimp. This creates millions of tiny air pockets that amplify the insulating properties of wool, as well as make it even more durable and weatherproof. The scales and crimp are the result of millions of years of nature perfecting a thermal system for the benefit of the sheep of course, but conveniently we can benefit from them too. At “Tiroler Strick und Walk” the tricky business of making a shrunken wool garment starts with 100% virgin wool yarn, and that’s where the trickiness comes from. As mentioned, not all wool yarn reacts the same during the shrinking process and tiny differences in shrinkage can mean a garment is too small or too big. Additionally, Austrians are very particular that a garment fits properly, so there is no tolerance for error. What this means is that for every batch of fabric spun on their knitting machines a sample must be carefully shrunk to see how it responds. Here is a finished jacket with one of its sides before being shrunk held up next to it. Notice how much larger it is! <img src="https://ift.tt/3nqVJb5" alt="man and women holding up a finished shrunk wool jacket and a piece of the jacket before it was shrunk" /> After knitting the fabric to the desired pre-shrunk size, there are two ways to proceed. Let’s say a jacket has six parts that need to be stitched together. Each piece is made at about 30% larger than its future desired size, because that’s about how much it will shrink. The question is, do you shrink the six separate pieces and then stitch them together? Or do you stitch them together and then shrink the whole thing? It’s actually a bit easier to shrink the pieces and then stitch them together because you’ll know before you stitch them if they shrunk correctly, but a jacket stitched together first and then shrunk is more desirable because the individual pieces bond together so it gives the impression of being one solid piece. In fact they practice both methods but there is a premium for those that are shrunk as a complete garment. Needless to say, these jackets are produced in small quantities, like craft beer and every year a new collection is designed and made so if you ever own one, chances are you’ll neverbe caught in the same room with someone else wearing it! The Fall 2017 Robert W. Stolz collection will have a selection of “Tiroler Strick und Walk” jackets specially chosen for wool lovers in the United States. Below are photos from my visit that show some of the steps of making Walk garments. <img src="https://ift.tt/3hp84bY" alt="color pattern samples for different wool fabrics" /> Color palettes for different wool types <img src="https://ift.tt/3yZxbYV" alt="sign that says," /> <img src="https://ift.tt/3tHfe0s" alt="woman holding up a paper with the design of a sweater in front of the actual wool sweater" /> A design of a sweater held up to the final product. Every piece starts with a concept designed on paper. <img src="https://ift.tt/3ll065b" alt="4 assortments of fabric patterns" /> Fabric patterns for some jackets <img src="https://ift.tt/3hptnub" alt="man showing how the computer programed sample turns out in real life after it is knitted" /> This is a sample of a knitted fabric that was made based off of the pattern programmed in the computer behind. A sample of each fabric must be made and checked for mistakes before more is made. <img src="https://ift.tt/3l9J49K" alt="computer program for programming the knitting pattern and sending it to the knitting machine" /> Close up of the fabric pattern as programmed in the computer <img src="https://ift.tt/3k5mfok" alt="a paper cut out of a piece of a pattern for a wool jacket" /> A paper pattern of a piece of a jacket in design phase. <img src="https://ift.tt/3nqy9vq" alt="knitted wool fabric in walking machine with warm water" /> Knitted wool fabric in a 'washing' machine being shrunk. There is actually no soap used so it's not exactly washing it. Either warm or cool water is used but never hotter than 95 degrees Fahrenheit. <img src="https://ift.tt/396F83X" alt="knitted wool fabric after being shrunk in dryer" /> Knitted wool fabric being taken out of the dryer after being shrunk in warm water. <img src="https://ift.tt/3nnT5D0" alt="woman sewing a wool jacket" /><img src="https://ift.tt/3C2F4if" alt="woman" /> Sewing a jacket. Knitting machines . . . <img src="https://ift.tt/38XH0fF" alt="classic knitting machine that was made in Vienna" /> <img src="https://ift.tt/3hlpJ4j" alt="knitting machine with threads" /><img src="https://ift.tt/3l9J5KQ" alt="needles of a knitting machine in operation" /> <img src="https://ift.tt/3l9J6hS" alt="knitted blue wool fabric coming out of the bottom of a left left knitting machine" /> Finished fabric coming out of the bottom of a left left knitting machine <img src="https://ift.tt/3k53rWE" alt="finished shrunken wool fabrics on rolls" /> Shrunk fabrics ready to be used for making pillows & blankets. <img src="https://ift.tt/3tA9Ko6" alt="workers on the factory floor of" /> The factory floor with knitting machines in view. <img src="https://ift.tt/3hr6O8l" alt="a wool house slipper for a child on a shelf" /> A child size house slipper, which are also made by "Tiroler Strick und Walk" source https://familycuisine.net/how-to-shrink-boiled-wool/

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familycuisinee · 3 years

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Chocolate Crinkle Cookies | Family Cuisine

Chocolate Crinkle Cookies - these are a decadently rich and chocolatey cookie with a melt-in-your mouth fudgy softness and a gorgeously contrasted, crackled powdered sugar finish. They’re a lot like a brownie or your favorite chocolate cake but in cookie form and everybody loves them! <img src="https://ift.tt/2X9VLsW" alt="Chocolate Crinkle Cookies shown on a plate by a lit Christmas tree and red napkin." /> <h2>Classic Chocolate Crinkle Cookies</h2> An easy to make cookie that is very likely to become a family favorite! There’s plenty of pronounced yet perfectly welcomed chocolate flavor here which is paired and nicely complimented by that sweet layer of powdered sugar. And I just can’t get enough of that too tender to resist texture. This is the classic Hershey’s Chocolate Crinkle Cookie recipe and I’m yet to try one I like better. All around they’re just a perfectly satisfying cookie that’s been around for decades! They’re a classic must-have cookie recipe that’s worthy of the recipe book, plus they are perfect for the holidays with that snowy white finish. And who doesn’t love how magical they are? My kids think it’s amazing how you roll them in powdered sugar before baking, then pop them in the oven and you end with such a surprising finish! Snow capped tops with dark and beautiful, lightly concaved crinkles throughout. Just plan on sharing, this recipes makes an abundance of cookies! <img src="https://ift.tt/3npD0No" alt="Chocolate Crinkle Cookies shown overhead laying on a wooden surface." /> <h2>Chocolate Crinkle Cookie Recipe Ingredients</h2> <ul> <li>All-purpose flour: Preferably use unbleached flour.</li> <li>Baking powder: This helps the cookies rise nice and puffy and create the crinkle effect.</li> <li>Salt: Just use table salt.</li> <li>Granulated sugar: The sugar is essential not only to bring sweetness but a fair amount offers great texture and balances the bold flavor of the cocoa.</li> <li>Vegetable oil: Vegetable oil works really well for these cookies rather than butter. Just think of the same effect you get with chocolate cake - it makes it super moist. Something you could replace it with is light olive oil.</li> <li>Cocoa powder: Just use standard unsweetened, no Dutch process.</li> <li>Eggs: Eggs bind ingredients and also help achieve the crackled appearance in the cookies. Don’t omit or substitute in this recipe (if you have an allergy I recommend looking for a specifically egg-free recipe for them).</li> <li>Vanilla extract: This is the perfect compliment to the chocolate flavor.</li> <li>Powdered sugar: A critical ingredient for the appearance we are going for. It also adds more needed sweetness.</li> </ul> Scroll below for full printable recipe. <img src="https://ift.tt/3A2MZvy" alt="Image of ingredients used to make chocolate crinkle cookies. Includes flour, granulated sugar, powdered sugar, eggs, hershey" /><img src="https://ift.tt/3tFsDGb" alt="Collage of six images showing how to make chocolate crinkle cookies. First image is mixing dry ingredients in mixing bowl. Next shows mixing oil and sugar in stand mixer and shows it blended after. Then shows cocoa before and after mixing in. And last adding in eggs." /> <h2>How to Make Chocolate Crinkle Cookies</h2> <ol> <li>In a medium mixing bowl whisk together flour, baking powder and salt, set aside.</li> <li>In the bowl of an electric stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, blend together granulated sugar and oil.</li> <li>Mix in cocoa powder and blend well.</li> <li>Beat in eggs and vanilla.</li> <li>Add in flour mixture and mix until blended.</li> <li>Cover dough and refrigerate overnight.</li> <li>The following day preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone liners.</li> <li>Place powdered sugar in a small mixing bowl.</li> <li>Remove about 1/4 of the dough from the refrigerator at a time to work with and let remaining chill.</li> <li>Shape dough into balls about 1-inch each.</li> <li>Roll in powdered sugar then place on prepared baking sheet spacing them 2-inches apart.</li> <li>Bake in preheated oven 10 - 13 minutes until nearly set - they should be soft when touched and should appear slightly under-baked.</li> <li>Cool on baking sheet several minutes then transfer to a wire rack to cool.</li> <li>Store cookies in an airtight container once they are nearly cool. Repeat process with remaining dough.</li> </ol> <img src="https://ift.tt/2YO4zFR" alt="Collage of six images showing steps to finishing crinkle cookie dough by mixing in flour. Then shows scooping it out with a cookies scoop after dough is chilled and more solid. Then image shows rolling in powdered sugar and last includes dough balls on baking sheet." /> <img src="https://ift.tt/3k28Jlx" alt="Chocolate Crinkle Cookies shown on parchment paper baking sheet after baking." /> <h2>Storage and Shelf Life</h2> <ul> <li>Store cookies in an airtight container in a single layer if possible.</li> <li>I like to use a cookie sheet with a tight fitting lid.</li> <li>Store at room temperature up to 3 days or refrigerate up to 1 week.</li> </ul> <h2>Can I use a hand mixer?</h2> Yes a hand mixer will work well for this recipe too. It’s a fairly thin cookie dough batter. <h2>Can chocolate crinkle cookies be frozen?</h2> <ul> <li>The baked cookies can be frozen up to 3 months. Keep parchment paper between layers. Just keep in mind the pretty white finish may dissolve and get a bit sticky upon thawing.</li> <li>The dough does freeze well up to 2 months. Thaw overnight in the fridge before rolling in powered sugar and baking.</li> </ul> <h2>Variations</h2> <ul> <li>Add 1/2 tsp peppermint extract for a minty chocolate cookie.</li> <li>Stuff with a Rolo chocolate before baking for a molten caramel center.</li> <li>Freeze teaspoons dollops of Nutella or peanut butter until solid. Add to the center of cookie dough balls before baking.</li> <li>Try adding 1 tsp instant espresso powder to the dough for a light mocha flavor.</li> <li>Mix in some chopped pecans, walnuts into the dough.</li> <li>Top with a Hershey’s kiss after baking (chocolate or peppermint).</li> </ul> <h2>Helpful Tips for Chocolate Crinkle Cookies</h2> <ul> <li>For best results use a kitchen scale to measure ingredients if you have on, otherwise be sure to use the proper method as listed for measuring.</li> <li>Don’t skip the chilling, otherwise dough will be way too sticky and unmanageable to work with.</li> <li>For less stickiness use freezing option. Also coating hands with non-stick cooking spray may be helpful if needed too.</li> <li>Coat generously with powdered sugar for a beautiful contrast from the light and dark finish.</li> <li>I like to remove cookies while they look just slightly under-baked. That way they are more fudgy and brownie-like.</li> <li>If you want them to spread a little more you can press down on them slightly before baking then sprinkle over a little more powdered sugar if needed.</li> </ul> <img src="https://ift.tt/3npAS83" alt="Chocolate Crinkle Cookies" /> <h2>More Cookie Favorites to Try</h2> <ul> <li>Mexican Wedding Cookies</li> <li>Lemon Crinkle Cookies</li> <li>Peanut Butter Crinkle Cookies</li> <li>Red Velvet Crinkle Cookies</li> <li>Shortbread Cookies</li> </ul> Recipe source: adapted from Hershey’s source https://familycuisine.net/how-to-make-boiled-cookies/

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