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#very nice aftertaste but the experience of eating one is just so bizarre
marx-soul · 3 months
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just tried a century egg for the first time. a very perplexing food
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alchemy-fic · 3 years
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DELETED scenes from 88 and 89
The doorbell rang.
  “MARI, who is it?” Eggman called.
“It’s… it’s your mother and she looks very upset.” MARI answered. “Do I enter lockdown mode?”
“Uh, no.” He escorted the Mobians to the operating room to wash up. He ran to Sheptilah and took her hands in his. “Please. Please be nice to Mama. She’s very abrasive but the sooner you meet her the better. It’s like ripping off a scab. She’ll leave on her own when she gets bored.”
“How bad can she be?” Tilly asked.
Eggman pulled her into the elevator and got off on the ground floor. “Just promise me you won’t hurt her and you’ll be patient.”
“Of course, Ivo.” Tilly cocked a brow.
“MARI, I want all the robots to treat Mama with respect. She’s still family so no blasting her, got it? Just keep her happy.”
“Yes, sir.” MARI answered.
Eggman threw open the door.
Before him stood a shorter, heavy set woman with the same luxurious mustache as her son. Her pink and white dress did not match her oversized teal church hat or her black pumps. She had the same black sclera and red irises as her son and spoke with a deep, booming voice. Her lipstick was expertly applied as was her eyeshadow. In her hand she carried an old, beat up suitcase.
“Mama!” He said through a forced smile.
“Why didn’t you invite me to your wedding, you slime bucket!? Just when were you going to tell me you got married!? ” She hollered. “I had to find out in the Mobius Home For Really Bizarre Mothers from some river rat’s bubbie that you got hitched! Is this the girl?” The woman spat.
“Mama, this is Sheptilah, my wife.” He gestured at her.
“Why does she look like Cher but with the colors inverted? Did you marry some dirty hippie? You didn’t even ask my permission to marry someone! How do I know if she’s any bad for you?”
“Mama, you will be pleased to know that Sheptilah is a  queen .”
“Oh, that explains it. You married a  goth  queen. Who else would mix black lipstick, heavy black eyeshadow and  white hair?”
 “I’m wearing kohl.” Tilly crossed her arms. “It’s my custom, I’m not  goth . My people never invaded the Roman empire.”
 “... Not  visigoths , girl.” Mama looked at her with a furrowed expression, one eyebrow cocked. “It’s like you aren’t… from this time. Nobody calls it kohl anymore...”
“She’s a  real queen… It’s a nation near Iran.” Eggman interjected.
 “Oh,  great  . Why haven’t you taken over the world or gone to war? However many goats he traded for you it was  too many, little girl.” She blew past the couple and trudged into the kitchen to fix herself a snack.
Eggman looked at his wife apologetically.
“That is not abrasive.” She hissed under her breath. “That’s  virulent . Also, I’m worth many, many goats.”
“I’m sorry. I love you, but  please handle her until I’m out of surgery. I’ll make it as quick as possible.” He trotted after his mother.
Sheptilah took her time following them.
    “Mama, I’m about to go help perform surgery on someone upstairs. In the meantime my wife and the robots will take care of your needs.”
“I didn’t raise such a wuss. Go, do your  totally real surgery thing. I’m sure it’ll be all your robots and not your own handiwork.” She popped open a soda and guzzled it.
“Mrs. Eggman…” Sheptilah said, watching her husband leave the room.
Ivo winced and broke into a sprint.
“My name is Sylvia Robotnik! My slimeball of a son changed his last name years ago because he was ashamed of our family name.” She tossed the empty can over her shoulder.
“My apologies, Mrs. Robotnik.”
“You, girl, will call me Madam.” She piled on random ingredients to make a giant, disgusting sandwich.
“Right, sorry.”
“So if you’re a queen why do you live here in this dump?” She knocked the refrigerator door closed with her hip, making the appliance rattle.
“Truthfully,” she hesitated, “I am a five thousand year old queen and my kingdom doesn’t really exist anymore.”
“Of course you are. So why would my loser son marry you? Oh, no. Did he knock you up?”
“Ivo is not a loser,” Tilly grit her teeth, “And I am not pregnant.”
“He’s a loser, sweetheart; but you’re avoiding the question. Why would he marry  you? ”
“Because he loves me?”
“Ivo doesn’t know  how to love! I didn’t raise him to be sappy and sentimental! And what’s he trying to pull by being buff now?” She sat down to eat.
Sheptilah picked up the can and put it in the recycling bin.
“How are you even that old?” Sylvia practically ate the entire sandwich in one slobbery bite without chewing.
“I’m a  witch and I was kept in a crystal for five thousand years until Ivo stumbled upon me and brought me home.”
“Oh, I see. You don’t have much experience with men! That’s why you decided to tie the knot with my loser son.”
  “Madam, I think you don’t understand. He’s built himself an empire and controls almost every continent from right here in this lair with his Egg Bosses. He’s a  literal  emperor. He has a base on the  moon . The moon!”
“So? What has he ever done for his mother?”
Tilly groaned in frustration. She balled her fists then relaxed. “Do you just not like me because I’m  brown-skinned ?”
“What? No, I don’t like you because you’re a hippie! Look at you recycling and cleaning and whatever else it is you do. I bet that ugly garden out back was your idea.”
“Hmm…” Sheptilah mulled this over. She switched gears.
“What?”
“I think you would like something to eat, yes? I make great honey cakes.”
“How good of a cook can you be? You are a string bean.” Sylvia looked her over suspiciously.
Sheptilah summoned a plate of piping hot fried dough and a pot of honey. She drizzled the golden liquid over the cakes and slid it toward Sylvia.
“I am a woman of many talents, Madam.” Sheptilah then summoned gold coins into her hands and turned them into brilliantly cut gemstones. “Your son and I have plans for world domination, we are just busy with other things at the moment.”
Sylvia pushed the plate away. “Parlor tricks. Not very impressive. I’m growing bored with you, girl.”
“Well, what do you want to do?”
“I want to level this whole island to build a poorly designed parking lot with a ton of toll booths, for one. Then I want that stupid hedgehog caught and killed.”
“Are you talking about Sonic?”
“Yes! That pest! Always interfered when I tried to help my son get ahead in life. Do I smell cookies?”
“Yes, right this way.” Tilly escorted her to the dining room. “I made this tea myself.”
“Brew a fresh pot! I don’t know how long this has been sitting out here; and I want more cookies!” She practically inhaled the plate of leftover madeleines. “Don’t get any of your gross hair in them, either.”
“Right away,” Tilly left for the kitchen with the teapot. She washed it out and gathered some ingredients for a different brew.
Lavender, bergamot, catnip and lemon balm were added and boiled to extract flavor. As she poured the strained, boiling tea into two cups she whispered into one.
“ This tea as it passes lips, shall cause exhaustion with each sip. Every flavor strong and steep shall
curse the drinker into sleep. ”
Faint sparkles appeared as she blew across the tea. They disappeared and both cups looked identical again. Sheptilah turned the cursed tea cup so that the handle pointed inward and she could tell the difference.
She used magic to summon new cookies and brought them to the table.
    Sheptilah placed the teacups on the table with a click and slid the cursed one to Sylvia.
The woman picked up the warm cup in her hands and inhaled deeply. “Smells awful!”
Sheptilah waited patiently for the woman to sip her tea but Sylvia lingered on her cup. “You’re a witch, right?”
“Yes.”
“Can you read tea leaves? I want you to read my fortune.”
“I can read tea leaves.”
“Well, go get some so you can do that!” Sylvia put her cup down but kept her hands on it.
Sheptilah groaned and got up. She retrieved some tea leaves in a slotted spoon and came back. She tipped the leaves into Sylvia’s cup and set the utensil aside.
“What’s in this junk, anyway?” Sylvia took a sip and yawned. “The aftertaste isn’t bad, at least.”
Sheptilah smirked. “Bergamot, lavender, you know… tea stuff.”
Ivo’s mother rested her elbow on the table and leaned her face against her palm, sloppily swaying the
cup back and forth as if she was aerating wine. She watched the tea leaves spin in the vortex she created.
“Feeling tired?” Tilly asked in a somewhat antagonizing voice. Sheptilah sipped her tea primly.
“Yes, it was a long trip up here.”
“That’s too bad.”
“It is, isn’t it?” Sylvia grinned mischievously and guzzled down the rest of the drink. “You’re too pretty for my son.”
 “Hmm?”
 “You’re too  pretty . You’re outrageously skinny, your hair is too long and you wear nice clothes. You’re too pretty for him.”
 “Do you mean to say I’m too feminine?”
 “Too fragile in looks but not personality.” She shot a pointed look at Sheptilah, a broad and evil smile drawn across her face. “I figured you’d try to poison me.”
Tilly stiffened up. She felt her chest grow warm and her eyes become heavy.
“I’m immune to all that from years of eating hospital food but I switched the cups  just in case .”
Sheptilah’s hands went numb. She dropped the cup and it shattered, spilling its cursed contents on the table. Sylvia stood and walked around toward the prone witch without letting the tea touch her.
“Ivo may be an idiot but he’s  my idiot and I know my idiots. I know he’d never settle for anyone who wasn’t as smart and conniving as him; but I’m disappointed with how weak you are. A garden, recycling, being clean and nice? It’s disgusting in all the wrong ways! If you really knew what you were doing you'd have cursed both cups.”
“I eviscerated Katella.” Sheptilah muttered. "I can and will kill  you , too."
“But you healed her and look what happened.” Sylvia pointed to the missing finger.
 “How do you…”
 “I have access to and read the EggNet, sweetheart.”
“How?” She struggled to stay awake.
“My son is predictable and never changed his passwords.” Sylvia gingerly brushed Sheptilah’s hair out of her face. “Are you dying?” The leaves stuck in her teeth made her smile look all the more menacing.
“No… It’s… sleep...”
“Too bad. Don’t worry,  I  won’t kill you.”
KORin entered the room. “Step away, Sylvia.”
“What the Hell are  you supposed to be?” Mama Robotnik rested her hands on her hips. “Some kind of maid bot?”
“I’m the bouncer. It’s time for you to go.” KORin fixed her eyes on the woman.
“Nah, no thanks.” Sylvia walked up to the robot. “Stand down, tin woman.”
“My orders are to protect the family. I am here to protect the empress. Leave.”
“See, that’s the thing. Who is higher up on the rung? The emperor or the emperor’s mother?”
“KORin… it’s okay.” Sheptilah shut her eyes. “It won’t last… long…”
“Are you sure?” The robot stared at the witch.
“Yessss...” She passed out.
“So? What are you waiting for?” Sylvia stomped her foot. “Let’s move the body and get started on world domination!”
 An hour into the surgery things were well underway and proceeding fine.
“Doctor Eggman?” Smiley looked up from his work when he saw the human move oddly out of the corner of his eye.
    The human swayed on his feet. “Maybe I was not ready to come back…” He sat on the floor away from the operating table and rubbed his temples. “Suddenly I’m exhausted.”
Lourdes jumped down and checked him over. “When did you last eat?”
“Not that long ago.” He answered.
“Stay here for a minute, okay? Until you feel better.” Lourdes went back to monitoring Maw’s vitals.
“This surgery is going to take at least five hours and I need you awake to supervise. Remember, if the cybernetics malfunction we could all get sucked in! That sounds terrible.” Smiley dug around in Maw’s gums.
Eggman shook it off and stood. “I’m fine, I think I just had some kind of blood pressure drop. It only lasted a spell.” He stretched until he heard the joints in his spine pop.
“Neurally mediated hypotension!” Smiley looked up. “You were standing still too long hunched
over and watching us. Walk around the room a bit, you’ll feel better.” The corgi went back to his work.
  “Wakey, wakey… your mother in law is ka-ray-zee.” Scourge shook the witch by the shoulders.
Sheptilah snored loudly.
“For God’s sake, lady! What happened?” He lifted her by her hair and slapped her face.
No reaction.
 “I wish I could sleep like the dead.” Scourge slapped his own forehead. “The living, I wish I could sleep like the living… Oh, fuck.” He noticed the cursed tea twinkled oddly in his vision.
“Fuck! Fuck. How do you break curses… shit.” Scourge wiggled his fingers in her direction. “Abracadabra!”
Nothing.
“Um... what did she fuckin’ say once?” He muttered to himself. “Hex breaking… it was some stupid bullshit…oh! Cayenne pepper! Anything fuckin’ spicy.”
Scourge floated into the pantry and knocked ingredients over haphazardly. When he found the pepper he grinned. Grabbing it, he tried to fly out of the pantry only to get stuck with the pepper not passing through the door.
    “Shit!” He struggled to pull it through, the bottle clanging against the metal. “Come. The. Fuck. On! Why does this work with people but not…”
The plastic bottle pulled through but without the powder inside inside it.
“Pepper. Right… that shit wards off ghosts. There must be no ghosts in fuckin’ Mexico...”
 He calmly opened the pantry and tried to scoop up the pepper but it simply passed through his fingers.
“This is so fucking stupid!” He howled.
He angrily floated to the table and picked up Sylvia’s unbroken teacup and poured it out onto the floor. He then went to the pile of pepper and tried to scoop it into the cup with the same fruitless results.
“Fine, we do this the hard way!” He grabbed Sheptilah by the underarms and dragged her to the pile and dropped her face directly into it.
He glowered when he heard Sheptilah snore loudly. After a second the witch sat up sputtering. She clawed at her face, tears streaming from her eyes and mucus from her nose. She vomited up the sparse contents of her stomach.
Scourge calmly walked to the refrigerator and pulled out a bottle of milk. He unscrewed the cap and doused Sheptilah over the head.
“What the Hell, Scourge!?” She choked.
“I just saved your ass, Sleeping Beauty. You’re a real idiot for trying to play the evil queen by cursing her tea. You should’ve cursed both cups and not drank from either!”
Sheptilah felt her way to the sink and washed her burning face. “I’m going to become a necromancer just to bring you back to life so I can slap you to death.” She sloshed some water in her mouth before spitting it out.
“The pepper got into my lungs!” She coughed deeply.
“You’ll heal. Listen… your mother in law is nuts! Nuttier than squirrel shit! Kick her out!”
“Scourge, I can’t breathe. I’m tempted to turn my lungs inside out and run them under cold water…”
“Wouldn’t that make you drown?”
“I can give myself gills!” She spat up a huge wad of phlegm straight into the sink and washed it down the drain.
“It’s the only way I was able to break the spell, ya ingrate.” He crossed his transparent arms.
“Thanks.” The burning began to subside. “What’s Sylvia doing?”
“Trashing the place. She’s already bossin’ Orbie and Cubey around and threw around a bunch of furniture; including the sofa.”
“The really big and soft one?”
“Yep.”
“I’ll have her head!” Sheptilah charged off, bumping into things with her eyes red and bleary. “Sylvia!” She called.
“I told you to call me Madam!” The woman shouted back. “I’m in the den, if you could call it that!”
    Sheptilah walked in to see Sylvia moving all the heavy furniture around with one hand.
Holy shit,  she thought.  That woman has the same strength as Ivo!
“So what happened to your kingdom, anyway? If you were a queen we should use this to our advantage.”
“Advantage for what? World domination?” Tilly crossed her arms. Scourge appeared next to her.
 Mama Robotnik let the sofa land with a hard thud. It was moved to the other side of the room blocking an exit.
“Giant parasites we sealed in the moon broke out when your son cracked said moon in half with his nonsense. They’re back and trying to kill everything but especially me. They’re causing all those wild earthquakes.”
“That’s your story?” The woman turned to Sheptilah and stared at her with disbelief.
“It’s true.”
“And how exactly has this prevented you two from taking over the world?”
“Well, we can’t take over a planet if something actively trying to destroy it is in our way. Once we get rid of those things we will decide what we want to do with the empire; but I won’t lie. I am considering expanding it.”
“By how much?” Sylvia cocked a brow.
“I want to convert my pyramid into a base and work on getting a large space station going.” Tilly nodded to herself.
“Small potatoes. Think bigger! Hold the sun for ransom!”
“He tried that once and it didn’t quite work out.”
“Moon for ransom?”
“He already tried that, too.”
“What about all the freshwater for ransom?”
 “Eh, pretty much did that.”
“The planet for ransom!”
“Yep. He did that. That one  almost worked.”
    Sylvia flopped onto the sofa with a disgusted sigh. “But the hedgehog got into the way.”
“Among other things.” Sheptilah stuck out her hip. “Ivo is smart but he often does things without thinking. It’s really not that hard to kill Sonic, he just doesn't want to.”
“See, that’s his problem! He has no killer instinct, but you seem to have a semblance of one.” Sylvia sat up and straightened her hat.
“I have personally executed six people.”
“One of which being the child ghost that is making faces behind your back?” Mama Robotnik smirked.
Sheptilah whipped her head around to see Scourge was acting cute and innocent. She squinted at him before turning back to face Sylvia. “I’m not proud of his death. He’s haunting me.”
“Neener neener nee-nee!” Scourge teased. “Nah, the haunting was revoked forever ago. I’m just here for fun now.”
Mama Robotnik stroked her sizable mustache. “Still, why would my son marry you? More importantly, why wouldn’t he tell me? ”
“Because it was supposed to be a  secret . We eloped. We’re not going public with the marriage until a later date. Trust me, he’d invite the world to come see his splendid wedding and get himself decked out and all that.”
Sheptilah sighed, tapping her upper arm with her fingers.
“We’re on thin ice with GUN because Shadow the hedgehog is my familiar, as you probably know.”
“Shadow? ” Sylvia thought this over. “ Gerald’s  Shadow? I remember when he was this big.” She held her hands apart by about a foot. “He was an ugly baby. He looked like a turd crossed with a raisin.” She grimaced.
Tilly chuckled. “Yes, that Shadow. I guess not everything is on the EggNet.”
“They executed Gerald, his creator, and Shadow works for GUN anyway?” Sylvia grit her teeth and her face turned red with fury.
“Yeah, after they kept him in stasis for fifty years, destroyed his memory and tried to kill him.” Sheptilah shook her head, “I have a feeling he won’t work for them much longer. GUN really, really hates that he’s my familiar but recognizes they can’t do anything about it.”
They stared at each other in silence for a while.
“So who is my son performing surgery on upstairs?”
“Maw the thylacine. He’s one of the Egg Bosses. His jaw is all messed up.”
    “Bah, when will he hire more humans? Who needs animals when you have human beings around? Besides you, of course. You barely count as a human; what with your alien magic nonsense and all that.”
Sheptilah rolled her eyes. “Well, it was nice having you for a visit but now you need to leave. We’re getting ready to bug bomb the place once Ivo’s done with the surgery and no living person can be here.”
“Oh, please! This place is spick and span! Clean as a whistle! It’s disgusting, really.”
“Madam... “
“Take my suitcase.” Sylvia threw it at Sheptilah. She barely caught it, the impact knocking the wind out of her. “And get the master bedroom ready. That’s where I’ll be sleeping. You and my moron of a son can sleep outside in your hippy garden.”
“He is not a moron.”
“He married  you , didn’t he?”
    Tilly adjusted her grip on the suitcase. “Scourge?”
“Yes?” The ghost smirked.
“Take this… and show her to her room.” She handed the spirit the luggage. Scourge understood and grinned at Sylvia.
“Right this way, Your Disgusting-ness!” Scourge bowed in a grand but obviously sarcastic gesture. He grabbed Sylvia with his free hand and dragged her through the walls and out of the lair.
“Don’t let her back in.” Sheptilah instructed MARI. “Please reactivate your and your sister’s bodies.”
“Thank God for you, mom.” MARI chirped.
Scourge came back, very proud of himself.
“Thank you, King Scourge. Fantastic work.”
“I love throwing people out on their asses.” he ‘dusted’ off his hands. “As long as spicy pepper isn’t involved I can do anything I want.”
“You may outgrow that cosmic ‘allergy’ as you get stronger.” Tilly giggled. “But you’ll always be affected by blessed salt.”
“I’m fucked if I ever go into a salt and pepper store.” He gestured like he was hanged with a noose.
 “MARI, how’s the wife doing?” Eggman said.
“She and Scourge just kicked your mom out.”
“It’s nice they’re getting along.” A pause, and then: “Wait, what?”
The lair rumbled.
“Jeepers creepers!” Smiley yelped. “Earthquake?”
“No, that would be my mother.” Eggman sighed. “Finish up with him; I’ll be right back.”
He hurried out of the room.
     “Sylvia!” The witch howled. “Put down the boulder!” She stood in front of MARI and KORin with her arms out protectively.
The hulking woman held the giant chunk of outcrop she broke over her head with little effort.
“No! You will learn some manners!” She broke the boulder in half simply by pulling it apart like stale bread.
“What kind of Mickey Mouse physics is that!? ” MARI cried.
“Girls, go back inside.” Tilly whispered harshly.
“No way!” MARI refused.
“You can’t do anything, MARI. It’s forbidden for you to hurt his family and unfortunately that’s family!”
“But we can still defend you.” KORin said.
“Do so from inside the lair. Maw’s still in surgery and he needs the protection. That’s an order!” Tilly ran in zig-zags, making it hard for Sylvia to aim the rocks. The robots lingered in the doorway before going inside.
    Mama Robotnik threw both stones at the same time, both just barely missing the witch.
Sheptilah looked up at the shadow darkening over her body. It was Mama Robotnik coming in elbow-first with a wrestling slam. Sheptilah, eyes wide, stared up for the split second it took for gravity to pull the massive woman downwards. All at once the air was knocked from Tilly’s lungs and she was seeing stars.
The acrid smell of sweat and cheap perfume was all she could sense. Mama Robotnik stood up and
trotted off to pick another boulder to hurl.
Sheptilah, dazed and unable to focus, was sure she was flattened like a piece of paper. She felt the back of her head, noting her skull was cracked open and chunks of bone floated in brain matter. Warm blood streamed from her nose. She touched her forehead with her fingers, feeling the indent caused by Sylvia’s elbow.
Another shadow descended upon her. She flinched, believing it would be another blow but instead nothing happened.
Small stones fell around her with an almost hollow clatter. She looked up and saw it was her husband who had just punched the boulder to smithereens.
“Mother!” He shouted angrily.
    Shadow teleported in with a massive headache. “Ti-ti! Sorry I’m late; I came as soon as I felt something was off.” He didn’t seem to be too shaken by the image of his witch with her brains out and about. She healed just as quickly on her own.
“Hi, Shads!” She said dreamily.
    “She was rude!” Sylvia said petulantly. “I had to show her who was boss.”
Ivo’s fist throbbed. “You need to leave, Mother.”
Shadow turned to Eggman. “Do you want me to kill her?” He started toward Sylvia.
“Maybe.” Eggman said. “Open a portal to some place far away, if you please.”
    Sylvia protested. Screaming nonsense, she charged at her only son.
Shadow slashed at the air and opened a knot to a mostly deserted beach.
Ivo picked up his mother, held her over his head and unceremoniously tossed her in. He chucked in her suitcase after.
Shadow closed the portal and helped his witch to her feet.
“Where’d you send her?” Ivo asked.
He shook off his headache. “Coney Island, New York.” Shadow smirked.
“This is the second time my brains were on your lawn, Ivo.” Sheptilah frowned.
Ivo looked at his aching fist and saw his glove was torn and bloody. He walked over to his wife and held her tightly. “Why weren’t you fighting back?”
“It’s hard when your brain is trying to reconstruct itself…” She shuddered. “Thank you for… saving my life.” The full horror of what occurred finally hit her and she stumbled.
    He caught her and kissed her cheek. “I’m so sorry I had to leave you with her. I should’ve just kicked her out at first sight. I won’t let her come back ever again. I just couldn’t let the two doctors sit with Maw for that long because the bombs are so delicate sometimes.”
“How did the surgery go?” Sheptilah felt ice cold and shivered.
“Hm? Oh, Maw is in recovery but I don’t care about him right now.” He rubbed her shoulders to warm her up.
“Recovery? Oh, his jaw.” Shadow pretended like he forgot. “You did that today? With your mother here?”
“My mother surprised me.” Ivo huffed. “Had to leave my poor wife with her for four hours…” He rocked her back and forth in his arms.
 “I’m okay, really. The lair is a mess but I can clean it up… I tried to curse her with sleep but ended up being cursed myself and while I was out she was rearranging things.”
“Just rest, honey. I’ll have the robots do that.” He ran his hand over the back of her head and cringed when he felt chunks of brain matter and bone. She was really hurt if the meninges tore that easily… what the Hell did my mother do? He thought. “Actually, I’m going to have Lourdes look you over.”
    “Should I stay?” Shadow asked her.
“Only if you want to, Shads.” She nodded.
“Call me if you need me.” He took a step back and teleported out. A ring of dust was left behind and blew away in the wind.
“I’m so sorry, Tilly.” Ivo hugged her tightly. “I never should have let her stay. I knew something like this would happen.”
“How did you survive your childhood?” Tilly looked up at him.
“I got myself into boarding school and left home at a very young age.”
She buried her face in his chest.
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voidsettle · 5 years
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Warm Flanders
Indulging our traveling desire and continuing the newly developed tradition of European Christmas markets, we bought tickets to Belgium. This trip had its peculiarities - and a unique aftertaste. Welcome to the capital of Europe!
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Panorama of Bruges from Belfry (I assume, the point where Brendan Gleeson's character jumps off in the movie 'In Bruges'
I don't know how we chose Belgium - but it all started with just Brussels, and then grew to another three towns. I suspect we may have a psychological condition.
After Brussels, Bruges was an obvious addition to the trip. Possibly the most well-known of tourist destinations in Belgium, it features a well-preserved medieval town so quaint like it crawled out of a fairy tale.
The movie 'In Bruges' (a nice piece of popularized arthaus) added to the fame of the place. The town in this flick is a character of its own - it serves as the premise and the plot twist, it helps to make hard choices and aids the protagonist. Besides, the film has gorgeous cast. Seriously, look it up if you've never seen it - or rewatch if you have.
Being in Belgium (and, more importantly, its northern part, Flanders - probably the most history-heavy region), I absolutely had to see Antwerp. Ghent was a curious little addition that we didn't plan - but that happened between Bruges and Antwerp just because we had time and opportunity. Stay tuned for more.
Brussels: Art and Chocolate
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Rue de la Chaufferette/Lollepotstraat, LGBTQ art street in the inner City of Brussels
Brussels is a weird city. Commonly I enjoy places that don't mind you roaming the streets (think Rome, Bangkok, New York). Brussels is however different. It etched into my memory as grey and rainy (I barely got a chance to snap a photo), and multifaceted to the point of utter incomprehensibility.
That is partly on national communities. Our free-tour guide mused on the immigration agenda of the city: nearly 80% of the current population (first and second generations) are not native to Belgium. The city, being the administrative and political center of Europe, is the very definition of a cultural melting pot.
Only a day before we arrived, French workers had a strike against ever-growing prices - thus all of Brussels was covered in barricades (not sure about the name, but something like Cheval de frise or knife-rest (aka Spanish rider) obstacles; all cold metal and barbwire, brutal).
But Brussels also flaunts its historic heritage and celebrates its art. The whole city is covered in street art - most notably scenes and characters from comics and statements in favor of LGBTQ community. Street decorations and overhead lamps of different designs and splendor turn the city into an exhibition of light.
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Altmejd, 2015. Musees royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique/Koninklijke Musea voor Schone Kunsten van Belgie
The more traditional artistry is spread within the cluster of museums of Mont des Arts/Kunstberg, most notably the Royal Museu of Fine Arts that features both old masters (David, Rembrandt, Rubens - and a whole hall and Google-partnered tour program dedicated to Bruegel) and new masters (some of my beloved Impressionists including Van Gogh, Serat, Gaugin, and a couple of Rodins). Another pearl, Magritte's museum is just down the stairs.
We've also followed one of the most bizarre quests I've ever had, looking for all three pissing monuments of Brussels - the symbol-status Manneken Pis, his female version Jeanneke Pis and a non-fountain canine variation Het Zinneke. Belgian people are weird.
We had some hysterical fun trying to decipher one of the ads on a bus stop. It claimed certain Subea was the best gift for your loved ones on Christmas. Passersby undoubtedly believed us crazy as we tried to identify the thing - and never came close to guessing. Look it up, it's hilarious.
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Blue street art, Brussels
Built on the time-tested principles of trading cities, Brussels preserves the tradition of market squares. In early December, the downtown is covered in Christmas towns and motley crowds, framed in softly shimmering lights. It's full of flavors of waffles with cream, and frites, and gluhwein, and seafood, and sausages.
Brussels is full of cyclists (even more so than Copenhagen), full of churches, and homeless, and nationalities - cuisines, skin tones, languages. The signs duplicated in French and Dutch do not help location purposes in any significant way.
Nevermind the confusing feelings I developed for Brussels, there is one thing I should mention with firm praise - chocolate. Walk the streets and have a cup of hot chocolate - it's literally chocolate of your choice melted in hot milk. Eat warm Liege waffles topped with chocolate and cream. Buy a set of (regular) chocolate boxes with discount - or pay a visit to Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert to learn about chocolate as art. It's expensive, yes, but oh is it worth every cent!
Break a chocolate bar of preference - dark works best - into pieces, add to the cup and pour with hot milk. Stir until it melts. Enjoy the taste of Belgium.
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St Michael and Gudula Cathedral, Brussels
What to see in Brussels:
Grand Place
Brussels Town Hall
Residence of the Dukes of Brabant
Maison du Roi/Broodhuis
Manneken Pis
Jeanneke Pis
Het Zinneke
Bourse/Beurs (stock exchange)
Galleries Royales Saint-Hubert
St Michael and Gudula Cathedral
chapelle de la Madeleine/Magdalenakapel
Mont des Arts/Kunstberg
Musees royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique/Koninklijke Musea voor Schone Kunsten van Belgie (Musee Oldmasters, Musee Magritte, musical instruments museum)
Royal Palace
Parc de Bruxelles/Warandepark
eglise Notre-Dame au Sablon/Onze-Lieve-Vrouw ten Zavelkerk
eglise royale Sainte-Marie/Koninklijke Sint-Mariakerk
National Basilica of the Sacred Heart
Atomium
Royal Palace of Laeken
Bruges: The Belfry and the Waffle Houses
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Rozenhoedkaai, Bruges
Belgian capital is the least Flemish city among those I've visited. Bruges, on the other hand, seems to bear the imprint of one of the richest regions of medieval Europe. The town is neat and cute, full of waffle houses with stair-step facades, all red brick and yellowish stone. The streets are carefully crafted and well-groomed; they stretch in slow curves, and the houses crowding each side chant their stories to the tourists in a never-ending lullaby.
Houses plaster all over each other - it feels like each street has only one building that was actually constructed with 4 walls. The rest figured 'hey, here's a perfectly good empty wall right there, with nothing attached, why not stick to the side'.
The whole country is like that, one of the signature traits of Belgium, alongside angry cyclists and painted waffle houses.
Before walking to the main attraction (Belfry, naturally), we've decided to have a glass of beer in Halve Maan, one of the oldest breweries in town. We were pleasantly surprised by the sleepy emptiness, the fireside couches and craft beer (I've never had an 11° beer before, it felt almost as a shot of whiskey). In a slumbery, sheepish haze we walked around the Minnewaterpark with its swans and gardens dipped in green moisture.
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Minnewaterpark. After the rainy, grey-ish Brussels, Bruges met us with sun-through-the-clouds and warmth worthy of mid-October. I finally got out my camera and snapped my way through the cute medieval city
The territory of Bruges is covered in canals - no wonder it's called the small Venice of the North, and the centuries-old architecture covers the town in a romantic blur. Even the long queues of Belfry (one person in, one out, and around half a hundred waiting for their turn) didn't disturb our dreamy mood. The view from above maps the whole town on the palm of your hands, and the stone parapet is covered in numbers and names of cities with arrows pointing the direction.
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Carillon, a fascinating musical instrument that has several dozen bells connected to play melodies. The Belfry carillon plays a different melody every quarter of an hour
Belfry is gorgeous at sunset, especially observed from Grote Markt - towering, starkly contrasted against the fading skies.
Bruges is probably best-known for its streets - after you've seen the main attractions, there's no clear itinerary, but just wander around and get lost in the medieval brick labyrinth. You can visit the old windmills - each with its own unique name - and the corner of Groenerei, which is less romantic in winter but still a nice place for a romantic rendezvous. Or just roam the streets and inhale the ambiance of this old town that looks like it jumped straight out of a fairytale with enchanted castles, simplistic plotline where good always conquers evil and a set of enjoyably cardboard characters.
Sometimes it's fun to experience something so far from real life. Can't disagree with the philosophic view of Fiennes's character from 'In Bruges'.
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What to see in Bruges:
Kasteel de la Faille
Sashuis
Minnewaterpark
Sint-Janshospitaal-Memlingmuseum
St Salvator's cathedral
Church of Our Lady (featuring Michelangelo's Madonna met Kind)
Bonifaciusbrug
the Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse
Rozenhoedkaai (the most photographed spot in Bruges)
't Brugse Vrije
City Hall
Basilique du Saint-Sang
Brugge markt
Belfry and Market Halls
Provinciaal Hof
Jan Breydel en pieter de Coeninck memorial
St James's church
Jan Van Eyck memorial
windmills (de Coelewey, de Nieuwe Papegaai, Sint Janshuismolen, Bonne Chiere)
Sint-Annakerk
Gronerei
Train Tales
​Belgium is unexpectedly bad at doing trains. We heard the first bell as we tried to get out of Brussels. The Northern train station has a clear division between two worlds. The ground floor belongs to hobos and (most probably) unemployed immigrants - this is the world of half-light, scary coughs and little noises, empty food wrappings, garbage, people wrapped in multiple layers of dirty blankets and coats. The upper floors are obviously European, well-lit, with shops, 24/7 information desks and wending machines. The contrast is so stark that it's frightening.
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(Under)ground floors of Antwerpen-Centraal
Yet this was but a warning. For some unknown reason, the schedule of Belgian trains is really complicated - we couldn't make sense of it using just timetables and scoreboards. This was a shock for me specifically - I just went to Italy a month prior, where I didn't even need to talk to anyone to understand where to buy tickets and how to get from point A to point B.
Obviously we were not alone confused by the whole system - by the machine selling tickets, a nice lady was spending her working hours explaining stupid tourists how this works. She offered us a ticket we didn't consider - it could take us to 10 destinations (we needed 6, and decided to spend 2 more for a short detour to Ghent before Antwerp; profit).
The complications started when we failed to notice the class of the coach we were boarding. Truth to be told, there was a number '1' on the side - but the inside didn't look any different from second class, so I'm not sure what's the deal. 10 minutes into the ride, a railway employee walked in and aggressively started to demand extra payment to 'upgrade' our tickets - about 10 euro per person. None of us were allowed to leave the first class coach for the second.
The thing about that whole situation was: of all the people in the coach, only one woman was aware of its first class status. The rest were bewildered and looked like lost tourists (some of us surely were) who forgot to check the number on the side of the carriage. Which, frankly, didn't feel like the people's fault. A Spanish family nearly started a brawl with the guy - which earned my compassion but also a portion of solid mirth.
Hilarious experience - but also quite frustrating. Not too fond of Belgian train system.
Ghent: The Castle and the Histrionic Weather
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Gravensteen, Ghent
I didn't expect this short detour would turn out this satisfying. Don't get me wrong, there's not much to do in Ghent in the evening. In a manner traditional for the whole country, life dies away after 6PM. As nightfall covers the streets, the shops and restaurants close, and the whole city seems deserted. There are some late passersby, some groups of youth and random tourists but they're not common, especially further from downtown.
But the architecture is spectacular nonetheless. Korenmarkt (basically, central square) with Church of Saint Nicholas is the heart of the city. The sites are mostly all on the same line - Stadhuis Gent and Belfort, Saint Bavo cathedral and a couple of nearby 'palaces' that were actually residences of (very) wealthy merchants, and Saint Michael's church on the other side of Korenmarkt, across the Leie river.
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It was enjoyable to just wander the empty streets quite aimlessly, bumping into architectural sites curious things here and there
Gravensteen is exactly the prototype you imagine when someone says 'a castle'. It's the type of medieval structure you drew as a kid, with the battlements and turrets. This is where a valiant knight came to rescue a fair maiden from an evil king. It's The Ultimate Castle.
In yet another plot twist, the weather in Ghent was unpredictably fun. It made us giggle at its hysterical fits.
Rain, wind and damp autumnal warmth changed each other in bizarre epileptic seizures.
One moment, it decided to rain - and the downpour started as soon as we opened our umbrellas. 2 minutes later it all stopped as if nothing happened. Ten minutes passed - and terrible gusts of wind that nearly knocked us down. Sure enough, soon it was warm and mellow again. Best advice when the weather is in such a theatrical mood: keep an umbrella with you at all times.
The walk from the city center to the train station is quite long, about an hour. But at least the building of the train station is worth exploring - it has great inner decorations all over the ceiling that imitate medieval style. Outside, by the largest bike parking I've seen after Copenhagen's sleeping districts, a sad man was playing his wistful sax; there seems to be something about Belgium and saxophones.
What to see in Ghent:
Korenmarkt (basically, central square)
Church of Saint Nicholas
Saint Michael's church
Gravensteen
Stadhuis Gent
Belfort
Saint Bavo cathedral
Antwerp: The Train Station and the Sky
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Antwerpen-Centraal Train Station, Antwerp
After the grey cold rain of Brussels and the crazy run of tourist-packed Bruges and (devastatingly) empty Ghent, Antwerp was all sunshine and warmth. Easily the most enjoyable time I've had in Belgium.
Antwerp is a mild, soft city, quite self-indulgent - it has less tourists than either Brussels or Bruges - and completely immersed in its own thoughts. Traces of the eternal, undying energy that preserves big cities can be found everywhere.
First things first, we went to see the jewel of Antwerp's sightseeing itinerary - Antwerpen-Centraal, the main train station of the city. It has 4 floors, with trains arriving on each of them - it is really impressive, especially as the whole structure is sunlit through the ribbed glass roof and the underground floors are dipped in orange-and-purple lights, the true impressionist study of light and color.
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Antwerp has a clear itinerary, as if the city was built with the idea of easy navigation in mind. Starting from Antwerpen-Centraal and past the diamond district, the shopping streets of Antwerp start and run right to the heart of the city, Grote Markt. The walk there is short if one ignores the detour sites like the beautiful neoclassical Bourla theater with round-ish colonnade façade, the house of Rubens turned museum, the oldest house in Antwerp build circa 1480, completely wooden and still inhabited, or the baroque St Charles Borromeo church, which simplistic interior is decorated with astonishing woodwork.
The notorious diamond district of Antwerp is located right beside the train station. History has it that it all started with shops opening here so that rich people coming to Antwerp to buy diamonds could keep their incognito and leave as soon as the deal was sealed, without the need to visit the town.
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Grote Markt and the nearby Groenplaats are connected with a short street that features another pearl of Antwerp, the Cathedral of Our Lady. This majestic Gothic temple is narrowly surrounded by the old houses of trading guilds glued to its every side. You cannot actually see the side walls of the Cathedral (which is another trademark feature of Flemish towns - a dead giveaway that trade was of utmost importance, and that secular and religious matters were closely connected).
Grote Markt itself looks just like other main squares in Belgium - a lot of space adapted for Christmas markets during this time of year, crowded by waffle houses with gilded statues and inscriptions dating back to the Autumn of the Middle Ages, and towering Brabantine Gothic spire, the cynosure of the city.
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Stroh violin player. Stroviol is a popular instrument of street musicians, seen all over Flanders
The next thing I was agitated to see was Sint-Annatunnel - a 1/2 km tunnel under the riverbed, fully built for walking on foot, riding on bicycles and even for motorized vehicles. The escalators are wood-paneled and lacquered, the photos on the walls tell the history of construction of the tunnel as one descends.
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Quay along river Scheldt, shipyard and windmills
On our way to MAS, we've taken a turn into the Antwerp red lights district. As I was quite shamelessly staring at the girls (literally) displayed in the windows, my friend surprised me, hilariously paying attention to some nesting boxes on a random tree instead. Some way to explore the city.
Don't miss on the chance to visit MAS museum. For a tourist, it's a golden opportunity: free entrance to the rooftop with stunning night panorama of Antwerp lights. From up above, the lights on the windmills twinkle red, painting an ominous image in the night skies. The walls of the interior are covered with posters of modern art (sometimes inspiring, sometimes hilarious, sometimes frightening). Besides, MAS is open till 10 PM, a rare case for Belgium.
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MAS pays the oddest homages, and one of them is to Harry Potter franchise: the building features floor 9 and 1/2.
While on the roof of MAS, the pragmatism and commercial genes of Flemish people deliver nothing but pure delight. The nearby houses host advertisements for the visitors of the museum: cafes and restaurants ornament their awnings with offers of hot drinks and rich meals.
What to see in Antwerp:
Antwerpen-Centraal
diamond block
Leysstraat 32-34 and 27 (twin buildings)
Meir (shopping street)
Rubenshuis
Bourlaschouwburg
Boerentoren
Sint-Carolus Borromeuskerk
Groenplaats
Cathedral of Our Lady
Grote Markt
Brabo fountain
Stadhuis Antwerpen
Het Steen and Lange Wapper memorial
Sint-Annatunnel
Stoelstraat 11 (the oldest house of Antwerp)
Sint-Pauluskerk
Schipperskwartier (red lights district)
MAS museum (rooftop viewpoint)
What to eat:
chocolate (in all forms, whether it's box of finest pralines, a chocolate bar, or a cup of hot chocolate)
waffles (fillings vary; I personally prefer dark chocolate and whipped cream. Belgian people however have plain waffle with sugar powder)
beer (one of the oldest and most important produces of the region; brewing beer is fine art here)
frites (basically French fries, but don't call them that - it's offensive, given the fact they were not invented in France; the locals still hold their grudge over the matter)
mussels (Brussels specialty, usually go with frites on the side)
Flanders As It Is
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Wandelterras Noord, quay of Antwerp, near Sint-Annatunnel. The sun gave us its last warmth of the day as we strolled along the Antwerp quay, the dark silhouettes of seagulls scattering sunbeams as we scared them off the railings
The towns of Flanders are easily recognizable. The main square is always called 'Grote Markt'; the combination of a cathedral (usually of Our Lady), a stadhuis and a belfry impending over the town is mandatory. Old houses of stone (and sometimes even wood), with stepped roofs and intricate ornaments. Waffles and chocolate on every corner, infinite varieties of beer in any pub. Add cyclists during the day or bicycle parking at night, cobblestone streets, a culture co-depending with trade - and you have a perfect portrait of a Flemish city.
It was a little vacation we all need from time to time - not spectacular but fun, warm and surprisingly full of color in this grim, gray time of the year.
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