thecaldercollective

[thecaldercollective]

The Shoe Show

Last week we went to the FFANY shoe show on Madison Ave by central park. I have never heard of this shoe show before and it was definitely eye opening. Shoe vendors and companies come from all over the world to showcase their collection to buyers and stores with the hopes of making a deal. We walked into the Academy Mansion and it was filled with shoes and vendors.

We were greeted by Phyllis, the vice president of the entire show and she gave us a tour. We walked through the different rooms meeting vendors from Israel, Africa and the United States. We met with the team from Bearpaw who specialize in making affordable shoes for the entire family. It was so interesting to see their collections before they come out, which is why we could not take pictures. There were multiple floors to the venue and even another location which housed more of the higher end shoe designers. 

I really enjoyed this study tour because it was different from all of the other ones we have been on. I thought it was cool that there were all these different vendors in one place trying to make deals with companies and stores. I am really going to miss these study tours because they give you a glimpse of different parts of the industry. 

XOXO,

Gabrielle 

[thecaldercollective]

Fur, Fur and More Fur

Last week, our study tour took us to Fox Unlimited in the garment district. I have never heard of this company before and I had no idea the large impact they have on the fur industry. They supply and create samples of different animal furs, skins and faux furs to designers. They also make custom garments for people like the Kardashians or anyone that comes in the door. 

We met with the Owner and his daughter Lauren who has started to work at the family business. Both of them were so nice and informative and really explained the whole process of what they do. They go to Europe to source the furs and skins and bring them back. Lauren explained that real fur costs so much more than faux, but feels almost exactly the same on the body. She showed us jackets from her own line and they were so amazing. 

I really loved this study tour. I thought the whole process of gathering the furs, creating the sample, presenting them to designers is so interesting. They were so nice and really took the time to explain everything and even offered us items at a cheaper price, which was so cool. I have never seen so many amazing coats in my entire life. They were all so beautiful and well made and it was incredible to be up close to all of them. I loved going to Fox Unlimited because it was so different from all of our other study tours.

See you next week!

XOXO,

Gabrielle 

[thecaldercollective]

The Knitting Machine

Last week for study tour we went to the Stoll Knitting Factory right by school. I had never even heard of this company before we went and I have to say it was my favorite of all of our study tours. We walked in and the lobby was filled with mannequins of the latest knitwear innovations the company has created as well as samples of garments they have. Stoll is responsible for making knitting machines as well as coming up with the latest and greatest technology for making knitwear garments. 

Some of the latest innovations include knitwear in athletic wear which I never really knew could be possible considering how thick we normally think knitwear is. Eileen the lady in charge of the entire NYC factory showed us around and was extremely informative. We got the chance to watch the knitwear designers stitch together garments and witnessed the extreme amount of technique and talent that goes in to making a garment. We learned that a lot of NYC based designers get their knitwear produced by still because of the high quality garments made from their factory. 

My favorite part of the tour was seeing the sleeve of a sweater being knitted by a machine in a matter of minutes. I think this is incredible how fast garments can be produced using the Stoll knitting machines. There were so many fabrics and colors involved yet it only took 7 minutes to make the sleeve. 

I loved how designers send their samples to be produced in a greater capacity to Stoll. It really shows how talented the people working there are and how much designers trust the workmanship. 

I really loved this study tour and it was definitely my favorite one to date!

See you next week!

XOXO 

Gabrielle 

[thecaldercollective]

ABC Carpet & Home

Last week, the study tour class ventured to ABC Carpet & Home, by Union Square. Unfortunately, I was sick and could not attend, but I did some research on the company and their NYC store. It was not always a luxurious home furnishing store, it started off as a discount rug dealer in 1897 and from then expanded to what it is today, a high end home store. 

The NYC store in Union Square in 6 floors of heaven. It is filled with everything one could need for your home, including sheets that are 400 thread count. ABC also has high end children’s furniture as well as jewelry, vintage and antique pieces. They try to enforce the ideology that they source goods that have sustainability and fair labor in mind. They have a foundation that some of the proceeds from sales go to. I looked on the website and found bed frames as expensive as 6,500 dollars. Needless to say this isn't a place everyone can afford to shop at. Their sheet sets can be as much as 500 dollars for the best quality sheets. The most expensive rug they have online is 32,000 which for some people is their whole years salary. 

I wish I could have attended this study tour because I really enjoy looking at furniture and seeing the trends in the home industry. Hopefully, while I am here I have time to go in myself and visit the store. 

I hope you enjoyed this weeks blog!!

XOXO

Gabrielle 

[thecaldercollective]

Todd Snyder

Last week we had the opportunity to hear from Todd Snyder, a menswear designer from Iowa. His brand is sold in the United States as well as Japan. He focuses on making clothing for men that is versatile and comfortable. He has been a CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund Finalist which is a huge accomplishment and honor for any designer. He has collaborated with the famous athletic wear brand Champion, to create cool streetwear for men. He has a flagship store here in NYC and items are also sold at department stores. The label was founded in 2011, and is sold at BG, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, Barney’s and Ron Herman. His upscale, fashionable mens line comes after his many years at Ralph Lauren, Gap and J.Crew. 

I really enjoyed hearing from him because I feel like we never learn a lot about menswear designers. He has such a fascinating career that has been outlined by numerous awards and nominations. He is a very accomplished designer and I really like how he collaborated with Champion as a way to reach a new type of clientele. It is so cool that Kent brings in these people to speak because they are so knowledgeable and you learn a lot from listening to their stories.

See you next week!

XOXO

Gabrielle 

[thecaldercollective]

Jewelry Heaven

This week for study tour we went to a jeweler showroom near Herald Square. We met with Sophie, the owner of the showroom explained the ins and outs of running a showroom. The showroom itself was filled with jewelry, ranging from precious stones to costume jewelry. There were so many different types of jewelry and it was so interesting to see it all displayed for buyers to come see it. 

Sophie, the owner explained to us how much work it really takes to run her showroom. She distributes to everyone from Walmart to Bergdorf Goodman. Buyers come in daily to pick out pieces that they want to put in their stores. Also, Sophie prepares each year for a jewelry show which is a large showroom that hundreds of people come to everyday to find new pieces. 

This was definitely a study tour where there is not as much information because we mainly just observed the showroom and looked at some of her jewelry. This wasn't my favorite study tour because I’m not as interested in the jewelry business but it was definitely nice to see another side of the industry.

See you next week!

XOXO,

Gabrielle Calder

[thecaldercollective]

A Unique Shopping Experience

           This week we went to Dover Street Market on Lexington Ave. This store is extremely conceptual and non-traditional compared to other retail stores. Founded by Commes des Garcon designer Rei Kawakubo, Dover Street Market is a store like no other, that provides a different, more unique approach to shopping. The store is located on a corner on Lexington Avenue. It features up and coming designers as well as established ones and creates mini shops inside the store for each one.

There is a cafe located on the main floor of the store as well. DSM is so innovative and takes full advantage of creative people in order to create a space that features clothing in a new way. We went on a Thursday and every Thursday there is a new supreme launch. Located on the top floor, Supreme is one of DSM best selling brands and the whole collection sells out within the hour. 

Gucci, Balenciaga, Yoji Yamamoto are very strategically placed in the store and are also some of the best selling collections in Dover Street Market. I noticed the wide variety of types of merchandise offered, from bags to shoes and clothing, as well as jewelry. This store has everything trendy people would enjoy. The pieces are statement pieces that require a person with a certain amount of edge to pull them off. 

I really enjoyed this study tour because it was different from the other ones we have gone to. Experiencing a retail store like this one is very special and is a must go for any fashion lover in the city. Dover Street Market provides the designers we love in a space that isn’t like any other retail store out there.

See you next week!

XOXO,

Gabrielle 

[thecaldercollective]

The Fabric Of Our Lives

This week for study tour, we ventured to midtown east to visit the Cotton Incorporated offices. I really did not realize the amount of influence this company had on the industry before going to this space. The office space was bright, set up much like any other office and had separate conference rooms like most do. I liked this space because I thought it was functional and a pleasing environment to work in.  The room we sat in reminded me of a classroom in high school, but once again was a nice space to be in.

           We got the chance to hear from one of the senior trend forecasters Jenna, who went from being an intern and worked her way up to a very high position in the company. She explained that Cotton Inc. is a not for profit organization that gets revenue from the purchasing and exporting of cotton from this country. Cotton Inc. predicts trends, color pallets and fabrics that other people can use in the industry. They predict almost 2 years in advance for trends and create wonderful color booklets that explain the trend and idea in depth. Jenna explained that her job requires a lot of traveling and she does multiple research trips a year to various countries to collect content, swatches and inspiration for trends. She noted that trends and inspiration can come from anything and anyone. Knowing lifestyle trends currently helps predict future trends. Jenna, travels alone sometimes for weeks at a time researching certain areas for the next big thing. Sometimes, she said you do not find anything, and other times you come back with an excessive amount of information.

           Overall, this was my favorite study tour. Jenna was informative, interactive, funny, and really knew what she was talking about. Listening to her presentation was enjoyable and perfect for us students. Her job sounds fascinating and she has been able to travel the world in ten years discovering the next big things in fashion. Cotton Inc. seems like a great company to work for and I might explore their internship program in the summer. That is all for now! See you next week on the newest edition of study tour blog.

 XOXO,

 Gabrielle Calder

[thecaldercollective]

The Heavenly Met

This past week, I attended the Heavenly Bodies exhibit at the Met. I have attended the fashion exhibits at the Met in years past and this one, I have to say was very different. This years theme, the Christian Imagination focused on the influence of religion on clothing. I didn’t realize how much religion really affected fashion. There were so many garments that were so clearly based off of Christianity. Also, this year they mixed the garments with the actual art in the museum, which I thought added an immense amount of aesthetics to the exhibit. When you first walk in, there are garments lined towards the ceiling as well as art and artifacts on the walls.

The actual space for the exhibit was much larger than in previous years. It spans multiple rooms with many garments and it is nice because it is not just clothing. I think that the theme this year came across very well and all in all was very cohesive with the clothing selected. My favorite piece was a red Valentino gown that was very full and made such a statement in the center of the room. The simplicity of it adds to the beauty and is so incredibly pleated and draped.

This Christian Laqoiux jacket above, was featured on the cover of Vogue with a pair Guess jeans. I love this piece because I remembered exactly where is was from when I saw it and seeing it in person was really cool. The detail of the jewels is so intricate, it really can only be seen in person.

I appreciated the depth of pieces to see and the amount of detail that went in to creating this exhibit. This was an event in the fashion industry that I think is very important for all people interested in fashion to go see. I went to see it twice this year because there was so much to take away. Knowing where designers get their influence from is so essential to understanding the design and creative process of fashion. The Met Gala is the most important fashion event of the year and enjoyed by millions for months after. A job well done by Anna and the entire group of people that worked all year to create this beautiful collection of art and clothing.

See you next week!

xoxo,

Gabrielle Calder

[thecaldercollective]

A Century of Fashion

This week we had the incredibly opportunity to go to the Fashion Institute of Technology to hear one of the museum curators speak about the history of fashion. Ellen, the curator selected garments from the past 100 years that represent the fashion of that time. We sat around a white table that was covered with padded fabric so the clothing pieces were properly placed on the surface. 

She started off of the presentation by explaining the corsets were an essential part of women’s fashion in the early 1900′s. Corsets were worn under dresses to give the woman’s body shape, however they were very restricting. She then showed us a flapper dress from the twenties that was heavily embellished with sequins which was a staple at the time. The dresses were made a little fuller at the bottom, so that when women danced the Charleston the dresses moved with them. 

Next up she talked about the forties and the importance of Dior’s New Look. The New Look was a new silhouette created to enhance the figure of woman. There were bigger skirts but a tight jacket that enhanced the waist of wearers. The forties was marked by restrictions from the war the required designers to think outside of the box when creating garments. She showed us a dress from the sixties which fit perfectly with the mod theme of the time. The bright colors and simple silhouette reflects twiggy, an iconic figure from the 60′s.

Overall, I have to say this was an extremely interesting study tour. Getting to see garments up close that represent important moments in fashion history was so exciting and a real treat. I appreciated the depth of knowledge Ellen has to share with us and I think this is very valuable information. Hearing her speak about these garments and designers me the value of knowing the past to understand the present!

Hope you enjoyed this weeks blog, see you soon!

xoxo,

Gabrielle 

[thecaldercollective]

Rebecca Minkoff...

           This was definitely my favorite study tour of the semester. We had to opportunity to go to the Rebecca Minkoff store in Soho. Rebecca’s brand is a mixture of the edge of a NYC girl and the ease of an LA girl at the same time. She is most famous for her handbags but has also explored shoes and ready to wear. Her brand recently has received new designers to try and revamp her style and elevate the clothing.

           We met with Taylor, the Soho store manager who explained to us how she grew with the company. She started out as a sales associate in Chicago and has made her way up to the manager at the NYC store. She explained that it is easy to grow with the company because they are always looking for new minds and ideas to be successful.

           The store itself is focused on the use of technology to make shopping an easier and more enjoyable experience. The fitting rooms are equipped with devices so that the sales associates know exactly what is in each room and you can checkout right from the room itself. That way, you do not have to interact with anyone, if that is what you prefer. Also, she makes tassels for bags that have chargers in them for on the go emergencies with a cell phone. The store is crisp, clean and very white so that the products stick out. There is a simplistic vibe, which is what the brand is going for. The stores are cohesive, so that one knows they are shopping in a Rebecca Minkoff store.  I really like the aesthetic of this brand and company because they seem like they are open to changes and new opportunities that will benefit their consumers. The sales associate was very enthusiastic and informative about the brand. She started the I am many campaign and has a wall in her store where people can write on the wall. Overall, Rebecca Minkoff, the store and the brand is impressive and strives for innovation in the industry.

See you next week!!

xoxo,

Gabrielle Calder

[thecaldercollective]

What Ross is all about...

Our second study tour of the semester took us to the Ross Buying offices in Midtown Manhattan. Ross is an off-price retailer that also includes the chain store DD’s as well. They sell merchandise up to 65% off regular department store prices. Ross is moving towards having over 3,000 stores this year which is way more than they expected. There are 3 buying offices, one located in New York, the others in Los Angeles and Boston. Ross offers internship programs for rising seniors over the summer in both the planning and buying departments.

The Ross offices in NYC take up almost an entire building and has more than 1,000 employees working at that site. Walking into the building it looked like any other office building. The floor we went on was filled with conference rooms and private office spaces. They had a presentation set up for us, but due to privacy reasons we cannot blog about some of the things mentioned in that presentation.

We met with Caroline and Hayley, both Kent State graduates. Hayley is recent graduate of Kent State and is an assistant buyer with Ross. That is the first step to becoming a senior buyer for the company. The whole process takes around 5 years to become a full buyer. Hayley’s day to day activities include going to market and analyzing numbers from the previous week to know how to adjust budgets and plans for the upcoming months. We also met with a location planner who decides which merchandise should be distributed to certain stores across the country. I found this presentation to be a little forced, almost like they were trying to sell us on working for Ross, rather than explaining really what they do day to day. Overall, I enjoyed this presentation and I think Ross is a great company, however I do not see myself personally, working for them. Next week off to Rebecca Minkoff, which I am so excited about.

Hope you enjoyed another study tour blog! See you next week!

 -Gabrielle Calder

[thecaldercollective]

It’s a Hautelook

The first study tour of the semester was on August 30th. We had the opportunity to go to the Nordstrom buying offices in the heart of the garment district. Located on the 15th floor of an office building, at first glance looks like any ordinary office space. However, there are little references to New York in the office. I noticed that all of the different conference rooms are named after specific areas of the city. We sat in the Greenwich Village room and I appreciated these little details giving a nod to the city that the space is in.

Jamie, a digital merchandiser for Hautelook gave us an in depth look inside the company and her job. I really did not know much about what a digital merchandizer does before this visit. The Nordstrom company is an omni-channel retailer, that includes, Nordstrom, Nordstrom Rack and Hautelook. Nordstrom and Nordstrom Rack are the two stores that offer online and in store purchasing, while Hautelook is strictly online. Hautelook is a flash sale site that offers sales that last anywhere from 24 hours to 7 days. Each day 20-30 new sales are added. Hautelook differs from Nordstrom Rack because once the flash sale is over the merchandise is taken off of the site regardless of if it has been sold or not. The items on Nordstrom Rack stay on the site until they are sold. We also had the opportunity to hear from Madeline who is a merchandising assistant. Her job consists of going to trade shows with her boss to scout out new trends for the upcoming seasons. I really liked how both of the employees seemed happy with their jobs and are excited to grow within the company. 

The day to day tasks of a digital merchandiser are to review the calendar and see when to place events on the site and they work with buyers to choose an assortment of items to show. Images and samples are gathered in order to properly display the merchandise on the site. Overall the opportunity to gain more knowledge about this part of the industry was very useful and important. Hearing first hand from an actual digital merchandiser of a huge company is invaluable and the information learned from this experience will stick with me throughout my career, because the online portion of fashion is perhaps becoming the most profitable part.

I am really looking forward to all of the study tours this semester to get an inside look at different parts of the industry. Cannot wait to see what they all have in store!

-Gabrielle Calder