dogtraintips - Tumblr blog

dogtraintips · 2 years

Text

Puppy Needs New Food!

Here are the most critical things to look for when shopping for your puppy's food.

Michael Pollan, author of the best-selling books on diet The Omnivore’s Dilemma, In Defense of Food, and Food Rules, once came up with the world’s most succinct guide for a healthy human diet: “Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants.”

If only we could come up with something that simple for puppies! The advice could start in a very similar fashion: “Feed food. Not too much….” But in order for the slogan to be nutritionally sound, the next part would be far too complicated to put on a book cover or tote bag: “Mostly quality sources of animal protein, delivered at adequate levels. Same goes for fat. Not too much calcium, but enough, depending on the expected adult size of the puppy . . . .”

There’s more, but you get the idea. There are a lot of factors that have to be carefully considered when feeding puppies – that is, if you want them to grow into healthy and sound adult dogs.

On the other hand, I don’t want to scare anyone; feeding puppies isn’t rocket science. But there are a few little details that you need to attend to in order to make sure your pup grows at an appropriate rate – things that aren’t as critical with an adult dog.

STANDARD ISSUE

The differences between the nutrient requirements for puppies and those for adult dogs are laid out in tables developed by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO); these are called the AAFCO Dog Food Nutrient Profiles, and they include the standards for what comprises the legal definition of “complete and balanced” diets for dogs. One lists the nutrient levels required for the “maintenance” of adult dogs only; the other lists the nutrient levels that meet the needs of breeding animals, pregnant or nursing females, and growing puppies. The latter is often referred to as the “growth and reproduction” nutrient profile.

These tables differ in notable ways. Puppies need higher amounts of protein (including higher amounts of many specific amino acids that contribute to the food’s total protein), fat, calcium, phosphorus, and several other minerals than the amounts needed by adult dogs. This is why you must make sure that the food you buy for your puppy (any dog less than a year old) is formulated to meet the standards for complete and balanced nutrition for growth.

Often, dog food labels say that the food contained in the package meets the standards for dogs “of all life stages.” This implicitly includes puppies. If a food is labeled as either meeting the nutrient levels or passing a feeding trial for dogs of “all life stages,” it has to meet the “growth” requirements.

Often – but not always – food that is formulated to meet the needs of puppies has the word “puppy” in the name of the food. Again, if the label indicates that it’s “complete and balanced for dogs of all life stages,” it has met the AAFCO standards for growth (puppies). But if the label says it is “complete and balanced for adult maintenance,” it is not suitable for puppies.

Where will you find this information? This is where things get weird: This statement is the most important thing to check on the label of your puppy’s food, and I will almost guarantee that it will be printed on the bag or can in teeny, tiny type. Scan the label carefully for the words “AAFCO Nutrient Profiles” or “AAFCO Feeding Trial.” The block of text containing one of these phrases will probably appear on the back or even the side of the package, and it will reference either “growth” (great!), “dogs of all life stages” (super!), or “adult maintenance” (womp, womp, no!).

CHECK THE SIZE

All puppy foods used to be formulated to meet the same nutrient standards. In recent years, however, animal nutrition experts came to understand that large-breed puppies should receive less calcium than puppies of smaller breeds to prevent their bones from growing too quickly. Excessively fast growth can result in the development of bone and joint abnormalities in large-breed puppies. So, in 2016, AAFCO began to require food makers to explicitly state whether their products contained calcium at an appropriate level for large breed puppies (defined as those pups expected to reach an adult weight of more than 70 pounds).

If the AAFCO statement says the food is for growth/all life stages “including growth of large-size dogs (70 pounds or more as an adult),” it is safe to feed to large breed pups.

If the statement says the food is for growth/all life stages “except for growth of large-size dogs (70 pounds or more as an adult),” it should not be fed to large-breed puppies.

To be safe, if you have a large-breed puppy, or a mixed-breed pup who looks like he may grow to more than 50 or 60 pounds, you should choose foods with the “including growth of large-size dogs” statement. Smaller-breed puppies can be safely fed foods with either statement.

OUR USUAL CRITERIA

Once you are confident that you can identify foods that are appropriate for puppies of the size you expect your pup to be, you can search among those products for diets that meet our usual selection criteria (listed in the box below) and that are in your price range.

Check the protein and fat content of the food you are feeding your pup right now. If his weight and energy are good, try to buy only those foods that contain similar levels of protein and fat. Be aware that these levels range widely. If you start feeding him a product with double or half the protein or fat content of the food you are giving him now, you will see changes in him; his appetite, weight, stool quality, and/or energy may be affected.

Finally, don’t be afraid to try different foods. Pet food companies want to win your loyalty, but the fact is, variety is actually good for your puppy. The more you change foods, the more accustomed his digestive tract will become to a wide variety of ingredients. Also, because each manufacturer’s products contain different levels of each required nutrient (within the AAFCO specifications), by routinely switching products, you are sure to provide “balance over time” and prevent him from suffering ill effects of any potentially excessive or deficient nutrient levels.

LEARN MORE CLICK HERE

#dogtrainer #dogs #doglover #puppy #dogbehaviour #dog #my puppy #bordercollie

4 notes · View notes

dogtraintips · 2 years

Text

5 Simple Steps to Improve Your Dog’s Quality of Life

If there were something simple you could do that would make your dog much happier, you’d do it in a flash, right?

Every day I see owners going to great lengths, and spending small fortunes, to indulge their dogs. That’s why I’m perplexed when I see those very same folks ignoring the smaller, easy-to-rectify issues that diminish their dog’s daily quality of life, causing anything from mild irritation to major pain.

Marketers may sell us on products for our dogs: expensive food and treats, beds, and toys. But some of the most important keys to our dogs’ happiness are free or low-ticket items that nobody advertises – so they can often go under the radar. Here are five simple things that you can fix to greatly improve your dog’s quality of life:

1. LONG NAILS. Ready for the hard truth? You need to be clipping or grinding your dog’s nails every three weeks.

I know. Your dog hates it. You hate it. So you put it off, and ask the vet or groomer to do it whenever your dog goes in. Unfortunately, unless you’re in the habit of monthly visits, that’s not nearly enough.

Here why too-long nails have a giant impact on your dog’s day and can become a true emergency:

* Each step your dog takes on those nails puts inappropriate pressure on the toes. That makes them twist unnaturally – and hurts!

* The pain causes dogs to compensate by adjusting their posture. That can cause orthopedic issues and can eventually be the source of hind-end weakness/soreness.

* Long nails give dogs even less grip on slippery wood or tile floors, increasing the likelihood of muscle strain. This is particularly hard on older dogs who’ve lost muscle tone. Imagine trying to walk across an ice-skating link wearing shoes with a smooth sole. That’s how your dog feels on slippery floors!

With a few exceptions, if a dog’s nails are clicking on the floor, it’s time. And if you’re thinking that’s not true for your own dog because clipping that short would absolutely mean cutting the quick, I have more bad news for you. The quick – the nerve inside the nail that bleeds when you cut it – grows along with the nail. So if you let the nails get too long, the quick gets too long, too.

The only remedy is an intense phase of even more frequent trimming! The quick always recedes back from the edge of the nail. After six weeks or so of weekly careful trimming, you should have a quick short enough that you can keep those nails from clicking on the floor.

Maybe you’ve always known how important nail trimming is but want to leave it to the “experts” because you still remember that time you cut a nail too short and made it bleed? My own “Aha!” moment came when my daughter interned at the local vet, and let me know that there is not some kind of perfect nail magic happening in that back room. Instead, they do their best, and sometimes they mess up. The difference is that you don’t see it happen and they use styptic to stop the bleeding. It’s a pain-free experience – but only for you.

That information was huge to me. I realized I was putting my dogs through extra stress so that I could avoid the drama myself. I decided that if this is to be done every three weeks, surely it’s better for my dogs to experience it with me, in the comfort of their own home. So, I worked on this skill; it’s not brain surgery! I’m pretty good at it now, and you can be, too. Here’s what will help:

* Make sure your clippers are sharp! Dull blades compress the nail before they cut through and so they can cause discomfort, even when the quick isn’t nipped. As soon as you notice that they require more force to snip through your dog’s nails, buy some new ones. I buy new clippers regularly since I clip a lot of dogs.

* Try a grinder! I was always afraid of these but have come to adore this option which leaves the nails with nice soft edges and avoids the possibility of cutting the quick with a single snip.

* Take the time to condition your dog to the experience. Pair even just the sight of the clippers or the sound of the grinder with something delicious. Dried fish! Feta cheese! Do that as frequently as you have to until you see that happy head swivel at the sight of the tool. Next step: Touch the tool to the paw, then treat. A baby-step approach can work wonders. While this may sound like it will take tons of time and patience, each interaction like this takes only seconds.

* Start small. Remember there’s no rule that you have to do all of the nails at once. With some dogs, I do two nails and call it a day.

I implore you to work on this. You’ll screw up at first and you’ll want to give up. Stick with it because the more you do it, the better you get. And once you are skilled, you’re going to hit that every-three-weeks mark. It may never be your favorite part of the day, but you and your dog can get to the point where you don’t dread it. The sooner you get brave and learn to deal with this, the sooner your dog will find walking to be much more comfortable.

2. CLINKING TAGS. Does the sound of your dog’s clinking tags ever bug you? Now imagine those tags were around your own neck 24/7, and you had incredibly acute hearing. Sad, right?

Sure, maybe most dogs get used to it. But why in the world should they? There are fantastic products out there that make clinking tags a torture device of the past.

Before you examine those new options, take the easiest step: simply reduce the number of jingling objects. Remove outdated license or rabies tags, and ponder whether you really need that rabies tag. Most counties do not require them as the license itself indicates an up-to-date vaccination history.

Once you’ve minimized the number of tags, it’s time to make them quieter. One option is to bundle them so that they don’t bang against each other. Plenty of do-it-yourselfers have always done this using rubber bands or electrical tape. Sure, it’s not easy to get to those tags, but if your dog never gets lost nobody will ever need to read them! However, if you’re looking for a cuter option, there are now great little pouches that can slip on, and wrap those tags together in silence.

Another thought is to take advantage of silicone. You can opt for a silicone ID tag rather than a metal one, or buy rubbery silencers that fit around the edge of the tags. Easily available online, they come in all sorts of colors and in the typical tag shapes.

Finally, there’s the no-dangling-ID-tag approach. There are slide-on tags that loop over the collar and lay flat. (I use these, with our generic family ID information, for my foster dogs, because I can easily move them from collar to collar.) You can also order a custom collar with ID information either engraved on a metal plate that’s riveted to the collar, or stitched on the collar itself.

Even if you don’t really want to change anything about your dog’s tags, give mealtime a consideration. I had a client who was perplexed about why her dog was finicky about eating at home, but happily wolfed down the exact same food at the pet-sitter’s house. A little investigation revealed the difference: The pet-sitter used a low plastic plate rather than a high steel bowl to serve the dog’s food, reducing the noise that was interfering with the dog’s ability to eat in peace! Now that he has a new dish at home that tags don’t bang against, that pup eats normally.

3. ILL-FITTING, 24/7 HARNESSES. Harnesses have many uses, but they must fit perfectly, and in most cases they should not be left on 24/7.

While it’s easy to get a collar to fit well, a harness is another thing entirely. There are so many contact points – so many spots where, depending on how the dog is sitting, moving, or lying down, there may be rubbing, pinching, and discomfort. When you get a harness, it’s critical to invest the time needed to figure out exactly how it’s supposed to fit. Many manufacturers have posted video instructions on YouTube – those are always worth watching. After that, make sure you check and adjust regularly, particularly if you have a growing puppy.

Even if you have a perfectly fit harness, though, remember that in most cases it is specifically for leash walks. It feels like you need a PhD to get your dog into some of these contraptions, which is one reason people simply leave them on. But … gosh. Would you want to wear that every minute of your life? Many dogs just tolerate this, but why do we ask them to do that if we love them so much?

4. MINOR SKIN/COAT/EAR ISSUES. We’ve all had that moment when we discover something on our dog that we should have found earlier: a tick, an infected ear, a mystery cut, a burr tangled deep in fur. No matter what it is, the sooner it’s found, the easier it is to fix. That timing can mean the difference between a simple at-home treatment and an expensive vet bill. More significant is the amount of discomfort your dog had to endure for goodness knows how long!

When your life is busy and your dog is active, though, it’s easy to miss things. The more you groom your dog, the more you have a chance to catch all sorts of things: new lumps and bumps, changes in fur texture, hair loss, parasites, mats that could be painful.

Whether you use a groomer or not, it’s a great idea to get into a once-weekly home exam routine. I now keep my tools (brush, nail clippers, little scissors, ear cleaner) in a basket near the TV so that when we’re relaxed at night I can slip over and make sure everybody’s in good shape. If I had to walk over and get it, I probably wouldn’t, because I’m lazy! This way, grooming has become a habit and I feel I’m always well aware of each dog’s status – and confident nobody’s suffering in silence.

5. NEGLECTED TEETH. If your dog’s breath is super stinky and her gums are red, please contact your vet’s office and schedule a dental exam!

Dental problems not only cause daily discomfort but also can have serious downstream health effects, like endocarditis from a chronic bacterial infection caused by the buildup of dental calculus. Endocarditis is six times more likely to occur in a dog with advanced gum disease as a dog with healthy gums.

Dental problems also cause chronic pain, which can make a dog cranky, reactive, and/or anti-social. Those of us who work in rescue have seen formerly neglected dogs with dental problems who seemed unfriendly and shut-down transform into seemingly younger, happier, and more engaged dogs after they had a veterinary dental cleaning and extractions or repair of broken or rotten teeth.

I’m all for indulging dogs with luxuries to make them happy and comfortable, but I think if we asked our dogs, they’d ask us to address the issues above first. It’s the low-hanging fruit of canine quality of life!

LEARN MORE CLICK HERE

#dogs #dogtrainer #puppy #doglover #dogbehaviour #dogbehaviourist #my doggo

1 note · View note

dogtraintips · 2 years

Text

How To Make the Most of COVID-Restricted Vet Visits

How to get the most out of a veterinary visit when you can't go inside the vet hospital due to COVID protocols.

More than a year into living under the cloud of a worldwide pandemic, we’re all still dealing with lifestyle changes to stay safe. For most people, this includes not being able to accompany pets into the vet’s office as practices continue curbside service. Some dogs (and some owners!) are handling this reality better than others.

While COVID statistics in many states are finally trending in a better direction, it’s impossible to know exactly what the future holds or when veterinary practices will begin allowing clients back inside. The following tips will help you make the most of a challenging situation.

* Ask yourself: Is the visit absolutely necessary? At the height of the pandemic, many practices were limiting non-essential procedures, including spay/neuter surgery. While we’d never recommend denying care, if you’re comfortable, consider a watch-and-wait approach for minor issues.

Similarly, take extra caution to avoid accidents that would require veterinary care.

* Pass notes. Write down the information you’d like the vet to know about your dog’s current situation. Be concise! In many practices, a veterinary assistant will come out to your car and ask you some initial questions about your dog and his issues, before taking your dog inside for the vet to examine. Send your notes in with your dog. Then, the vet can read the notes before her examination, and discuss them with you when she calls or comes out to talk to you.

* Up your treat game. We may not be able to go inside to make sure our dog doesn’t get stressed or frightened, but we can at least send in something to try to make him feel better: High-value treats! The last time my dog needed a blood draw prior to a medication refill, I filled a plastic bag with cooked morsels of meat. I wrote, “Please be generous!” on the baggie, and handed it to the assistant as he trotted my dog inside. It must have helped, because Saber came out happy and licking his lips!

* Ask questions. If you don’t ask, the answer is always no. It won’t hurt to ask if the vet would be comfortable examining your dog outside, or if you can walk your dog to the door before handing him off. Advocate for your dog, but understand sometimes the answer is “No” – and be respectful. Practices are trying to keep everyone safe. When staff calls out sick with COVID, it can devastate a practice – especially a smaller one.

* Consider a mobile vet. In the case of gut-wrenching end-of-life decisions, ask your vet if she can refer you to a mobile practitioner who can safely assist you and your dog at home. This event is already difficult emotionally, but not being present with your dog for euthanasia may be even more traumatic.

* Practice and be prepared. For some dogs, vet visits are stressful under the best circumstances. Training cooperative care skills at home can alleviate some of the anxiety during vet visits. Fenzi Dog Sports Academy (fenzidogsportsacademy.com) offers excellent online courses for cooperative canine care. (Also, see “Cooperative Care: Giving Your Dog Choice and Control” WDJ February 2021.) If your dog is extremely anxious and considered a bite risk, train him to happily wear a muzzle that you apply before sending him inside. (See “Mellow Muzzling,” page 4.)

It’s easy to become frustrated by COVID-era rules. Take a breath and practice patience and kindness – not just with your dog, but also in your interactions with your highly valued veterinary health care team.

LEARN MORE CLICK HERE

1 note · View note

dogtraintips · 2 years

Text

Flat-Faced Dogs: Tragically Cute

Brachycephalic dog breeds, or "flat faced dogs," suffer from many health challenges and need extra care and consideration to keep them alive and well.

Brachycephalic dog breeds, while incredibly cute, are the result of repeated passing on of genetic defects of the bones of the face and skull. While these anatomical defects create the cuteness we can’t resist, they also cause a multitude of problems. Owners and potential adopters of flat-faced dogs should be aware of the most prevalent anatomical problems suffered by these dogs and what extra care is required to keep them alive and well.

Breathing problems. The most dire problems suffered by brachycephalic dogs are breathing issues. While the bony structures of the skull became shorter with breeding that selected for increasingly flat-faced dogs, the soft tissue structures inside did not – so the tissue lining the airway from the nostrils to the trachea is essentially all bunched up in a shorter space. The result is partial blocking of airflow, making breathing more difficult, even at rest and even in a cool environment.

Breathing issues due to scrunched-up/pushed-in facial anatomy is so common it has a name: Brachycephalic Obstructive Airway Syndrome (BOAS). Signs of BOAS include snoring, snorting, increased respiratory effort, wheezing, gagging, heat intolerance, and exercise intolerance. The mucous membranes of severely affected dogs may turn blue and the dogs may collapse when stressed or overheated. If the brachycephalic dog is overweight, the danger of these symptoms is exponentially worse.

There are multiple places along the upper airway where obstruction can occur, starting at the nostrils, which may be collapsed or closed off (this is known as “stenotic nares”). The soft palate is frequently too long, resulting in airway obstruction. Pouches on the sides of the larynx can get sucked into the airway with each breath (everted laryngeal saccules), the entire larynx can collapse with the increased inspiratory pressure, and the dog may have prominent nasopharyngeal turbinates (little prominences whose purpose is to humidify inhaled air) that become obstructive. Many brachycephalic dogs also have narrow tracheas (tracheal hypoplasia), which is another impediment to good air flow.

Corrective surgery should be considered for severely affected dogs. This involves referral to a board-certified veterinary surgeon and a veterinary hospital that offers 24-hour care. Pre-surgical diagnosis and planning may include a combination of chest x-rays, sedated laryngeal exam, and computed tomography (CT) scan. These dogs must be monitored closely after surgery, and throughout the night. While complications do occur, the prognosis is generally good, especially for dogs who are presented for surgery sooner rather than later.

Heat stress. All dogs are somewhat prone to heat stress because the mechanisms they have for dissipating body heat are not very effective. When our human bodies overheat, we sweat, profusely, from all over our body surfaces. This is a highly effective way to dissipate heat quickly and continuously. The only mechanism dogs possess for dissipating heat is panting. With every breath in and out, evaporative cooling occurs as air passes over the moist tongue and upper respiratory tissues.

It’s not a great system – and the brachycephalic anatomy makes it even worse, as these dogs can’t move enough air with each breath for effective cooling to occur.

This makes it critically important for owners to manage these dogs’ exposure to heat, minimize their stress, and carefully monitor their breathing during exercise, even on a cool day. Maintain your brachycephalic dog at a healthy weight and body condition. If he or she is overweight now, work with your veterinarian on a weight-loss program. If you live in a hot, humid climate, keep your dog in air-conditioned housing. Do not exercise in the heat of the day; try early morning or late evening short outings instead. And never leave your dog unattended in a car, even on cool days with the windows cracked. Just don’t.

Gastrointestinal issues. The brachycephalic dog’s structural abnormalities extend beyond their faces. Their upper stomach sphincter is often weak, resulting in frequent regurgitating, vomiting, gastroesophageal reflux, and esophagitis. The outlet to the stomach is frequently thick (pyloric stenosis), resulting in delayed gastric emptying and vomiting. Studies have shown gastritis is common in brachycephalic breeds. Hiatal hernias (where the stomach pushes through an oversized hole in the diaphragm) are another common brachycephalic abnormality.

Dental problems. As one can imagine, there isn’t enough room in the mouths of brachycephalic dogs to have a normal number of teeth in a normal arrangement. Dental overcrowding and crooked teeth are common. This can cause a painful malocclusion (misalignment of teeth, with teeth poking into the roof of the mouth), requiring either orthodontic correction or selective tooth extraction. The overcrowding of teeth makes them prone to tartar accumulation and dental disease, too.

Ear problems. Ear infections in brachycephalic breeds can be difficult to manage due to their very narrow ear canals. Infections frequently become chronic, and often spread to the middle ear, resulting in long-term pain and even neurologic impairment. It is not uncommon for the chronically infected brachycephalic ear to end up having surgery to remove the ear canal in its entirety, called a total ear canal ablation (TECA).

Corneal ulcers. Brachycephalic breeds are prone to corneal ulcers, because of their very cute (but not very practical), prominent eyeballs. Their corneas are known to have decreased sensitivity, so they don’t notice as well as we would if something gets in their eye and damages it.

Additionally, the eyelids don’t always close all the way when blinking over these big eyeballs, so blinking is less effective at clearing the corneas of debris. Big nasal folds also tend to rub on the inner half of the corneas, creating chronic irritation there.

Skin-fold infections. Speaking of nasal folds, these require careful hygienic maintenance to prevent severe dermatitis and infection, as does that cute, little, curly tail fold.

High-risk anesthetic patients. Finally, brachycephalic breeds are a nightmare to anesthetize due to their compromised airways and associated gastric issues. If your healthy brachycephalic dog has to be anesthetized for anything, the risk assessment for him or her is automatically higher than for other dogs. These dogs should always be given preoperative anti-vomiting and stomach acid-reducing medications to minimize the chance of regurgitation or vomiting under anesthesia, which puts them at risk for aspiration pneumonia. Endotracheal intubation must be done extremely carefully, due to the possibility of tracheal hypoplasia.

The dogs must remain intubated until fully awake and aware because of their compromised airways, and they must be closely monitored, one on one, for an extended time postoperatively.

HOPING THIS FLAT-FACED DOG TREND REVERSES

In summary, brachycephalic breeds, while very cute, have been selectively bred for anatomical features that result in significant health problems and life-long discomfort and distress for them.

My hope is to see a trend toward breeding for less of that super flat faced dog with bulging eyeballs and more for a longer nose and less prominent eyeballs. They would breathe better, live longer, have fewer GI problems, fewer ear and eye problems and still be super cute, if you ask me.

LEARN MORE CLICK HERE

#dogtrainer #doglover #dogs #puppy #dogbehaviour #dogbehaviourist #puppy smiles #usa #team usa #united states

1 note · View note

dogtraintips · 2 years

Text

5 Professional Dog Training Tips

Ever wonder how professional trainers can get your dog to do things seemingly effortlessly that you struggle to get him to repeat? Here are five of their most effective training secrets."

The following five tips can help you train like a pro:

1. Start Proactively Managing Your Dog’s Actions

I can’t stress this enough! I would much rather proactively prevent the development of bad habits via humane management than give a puppy, adolescent, or newly adopted dog too much freedom and have to fix things later. When left to their own devices, it’s easy for dogs to experiment with unwanted behaviors, and, like people, dogs get good at whatever they practice!

Until your dog truly understands what constitutes the behaviors you desire from him and is motivated to perform them, you have only two good options:

a) Assume the role of active trainer and help the dog perform correctly, and

b) Prevent the rehearsal of unwanted behavior.

Of course, good training is the most reliable path toward long-term success, but in our busy lives, active training isn’t always convenient. Our households may contain a variety of people with varying levels of interest in the dog, and our days are met with myriad responsibilities. It’s not realistic to think we’re always in a position to play the role of effective dog trainer. That’s where management becomes so important.

Good management helps prevent problem behaviors, or prevents them from getting worse. It may consist of something as simple as restricting access to front-facing windows (if your dog nuisance-barks at passersby) or gating a counter-surfing dog out of the kitchen when you can’t supervise, or numerous other scenarios where a temporary “quick fix” might be appreciated. It’s a great way to create “breathing room” while deciding how best to address an issue in the long term.

2. Pay Your Dog in Valuable Currency – Treats!

When it comes to using food in training, what, how, when, and how much are powerful variables to consider. There are lots of ways to reinforce a dog beyond simply using food, but food is so powerful and so effective in the vast majority of cases that we feel its use should be thoroughly explored.

Because we’ve seen food treats work so well, trainers will usually experiment with a variety of food items to help discover what motivates a dog; we understand what is motivating in one setting might not cut the mustard under different circumstances.

Most trainers I know prefer high-quality, meat-based treats for the nutritional content and palatability, and we aren’t afraid to “go big” with “people” food like cooked meats or cheese when needed. While many of the name-brand dog treats on the market have considerable advertising budgets, and we’ve grown up on the commercials, for many dogs, simulated steak, sausages, and assorted crunchy biscuits just don’t cut it.

3. Be a Team Leader, Not a Pack Leader

The concept of pack leadership is still alive and well in modern-day dog training, and, in my opinion, it brings with it a lot of baggage, namely that it’s important for humans to be “dominant” over their dogs by “winning” behavioral battles and not letting dogs “get away with” failing to comply with a “command.” Blech!

I do believe dogs benefit from leadership, but it’s more about their need for clarity in understanding what works and what doesn’t (good training!) than asserting dominance over a subordinate.

I prefer to think of my dogs and myself as a team. Sure, I’m the team captain, and as such, I appreciate being treated by my canine teammates in ways that feel “respectful,” but I also understand how, as team captain, it’s my responsibility to fairly teach my dogs the skills they need in order to help them appropriately exist in our human-oriented world.

Good trainers understand a dog’s “disobedience” is not a personal attack against the handler; it’s a sign the dog is struggling to handle something difficult, and a clear indication he needs some help. Misbehavior isn’t a dog’s dominant attempt to take over the household, it’s just behavior, and behavior can be changed.

4. Be Patient with Your Dog

Behavior can be changed, but true behavior change takes time. It’s important to be patient and commit oneself to a training protocol for a good bit of time before deciding it’s not working.

In one of my favorite books, Tales of Two Species, Patricia McConnell writes, “It takes growing humans about 20 years to learn to control their emotions (Okay, some people never do!), so be patient with your dogs and think in terms of months and years when training, not days and weeks.” I love that!

Remember to break behaviors into easier steps and look for small areas of improvement along the way. Modifying well-rehearsed and complex behavior issues happens through a series of baby steps. Learning to recognize those small elements of progress goes a long way toward motivating yourself to keep at it.

5. Be Present with Your Dog

Take the time to really see the wonderful creature with whom you share your life. When you take your dog for a walk, pay attention to your dog. Interact with him. Play with him. Practice behaviors. Make it easy for your dog to be correct and reward correct behavior.

Also – and this is a big one these days – stay off of your phone! If you want your dog to pay attention to you when you feel it’s important, your dog needs to believe your attention, in general, has value, and he needs a strong history of rewarding experiences. Aspire to create meaningful, engaged interactions with your dog on a daily basis, whatever that looks like for the two of you.

Similarly, remember to meet your dog at his level during every training session and every real-world encounter. Clients often exclaim, “He’s not like this at home!” or “He does it at home!” when their dogs struggle to perform as requested in a busy group class. Dogs are context-specific; generalization takes time.

LEARN MORE CLICK HERE

#puppy #doglover #dogs #dogtrainer #bordercollie #balanceddogtraining #dogbehaviour #dogbehaviourist #puppy smiles #needy puppy #puppies #cute dogs #dogs of tumblr #dogtraining #funny dogs

1 note · View note

dogtraintips · 2 years

Text

A Head to Toe Guide to Washing Your Dog

While that doggy smell can be completely normal, many dogs do seem to be particularly on the nose. Getting your dog used to regular grooming and bathing from an early age and making sure you have fun doing it will ensure you have happy, healthy and odour free canine companion.

Shampoos and Conditioners

Dogs have skin that is half the thickness of human skin, is very sensitive and has a different pH. You can’t always assume that human products are okay for your pet. Use a good quality and gentle pet shampoo and if your dog is prone to dry skin, greasy skin, frequent skin infections or is itchy, ask your Vet which shampoo is best.

You can also view our guide to dog shampoos for a more detailed look at what shampoos will suit your dog. Conditioners are not really necessary, unless your dog has particularly dry hair. Most pet conditioners are leave-in and can be applied as the coat is drying, or even without washing first.

Where to Bath Your Dog

Smaller dogs can be easily bathed in the laundry sink, a baby bath, the normal bath tub or even the bottom of the shower. Using a non-slip mat can make your pet more secure on the slippery surface. An inside bath allows you to ensure the water is warm, but not warmer than your skin. If it is a nice sunny day, you can wash your pet outdoors and a nice game of fetch or a walk afterwards is a great way to stop them rolling in the garden and will speed up the drying process.

Technique

Keep a hand on your dog at all times when you are washing them. This will make it less likely they will shake all over you and attempt to leap from the bath. Have everything ready before you go and make sure you include a good massage while shampooing and towelling off to make the whole experience pleasurable for your pet. If your dog is a bit worried about bathing, particularly in certain areas, use lots of food rewards to encourage good behavior. If your dog is prone to wiggling and getting water in the ears, place a piece of cotton wool loosely in the ears to avoid getting water down there.

Bath time is a great time to check your pet’s nails, ears, teeth and skin for any abrasions or new lumps and bumps. Systematically feel your pet all over, perhaps while you are doing a nice massage with the shampoo.

Start With These Basics

Hose or handheld spray for the taps if using a sink or bath

Towels

Bathmat or something clean to stand on if outside

Shampoos/conditioners

Brush

Face washer or sponge

Hairdryer if you need a quick dry

Cotton wool

Ear cleaner

Nail clippers

Treats

The Step-by-Step Washing Process

Brush your pet to remove any tangles or debris from the coat.

Get your pet wet, avoiding the head.

Apply a 20c piece amount of shampoo, lathering up all over.

Massage your pet to distribute the shampoo.

Leave on for the recommended length of time.

Meanwhile use a face washer or sponge to wipe down the face (no need for shampoo).

Rinse, making sure all the residue has disappeared.

Stand back and allow your pet to shake.

Towel dry.

Use a hairdryer on a low heat with a brush or take your pet for a walk in the sun to dry.

Check your pet’s ears and remove any cotton wool. If your dog needs an ear clean, check our ear cleaning guide for detailed instructions.

Check your dog’s nails, if they need trimming, follow our step-by step nail trimming guide.

Smelly Dogs

Dogs that really do smell bad may actually have allergies or dermatitis. Take your pet in for a check-up with your Vet to rule out any underlying problems such as bacterial or fungal skin disease or dental disease. Your Vet will also be able to recommend the best shampoo for your dog’s skin type. develop a smelly odors in between baths, have slightly red or itchy skin may have allergies. Dogs that have fleas often also develop itchy and smelly skin, so ensure your flea control is up to date, even if you don’t see visible fleas on your pet.

You can also use Dermoscent to increase the fatty acid balance in the skin and improve smell. There are also various leave-in conditioners that can be applied in between baths to improve smell, such as Aloveen.

We hope you enjoy the time spent giving your pet a bath. This quality time can become very important to your pet and doing the job yourself can save you a great deal of money over the lifetime of your dog.

LEARN MORE CLICK HERE

1 note · View note

dogtraintips · 2 years

Text

Baking Healthy Treats for Your Pet

Dog Food Recipes: Baking Healthy Treats for Your Pet

Making your own pet treats can be very easy and inexpensive. Using just one recipe as a base you can experiment with what works for you and your pet using only healthy and natural ingredients.

It is relatively cheap, healthy and simple to make your own treats for your cat and dog. Packaged treats can be full of artificial ingredients and are often very high in fat, simple sugars and salt. They may also be unsuitable for pets with special dietary needs. With just one basic recipe and a bit of imagination, you can find something to suit even the most fussy pet.

Why Make Your Own Treats?

Many dogs and cats are on special diets or have food intolerances and allergies, so making your own treats satisfies their desire and yours, to occasionally have something a little different. You may also want something you can easily carry with you for training sessions.

Packaged dog treats can be full of artificial colors, flavors and poor quality ingredients. The labeling requirements are also very different from those on human foods. Many labels list minimum amounts for fat but do not indicate the actual ingredients or calories contained.

Ingredients To Avoid

Onions and garlic, including onion and garlic powder – cause damage to red blood cells.

Some stock cubes and powders – which can contain onion.

Baby food – often contains onion powder.

Cheese and milk – many dogs and cats are lactose intolerant.

Liver – this is fine in small quantities, but large amounts cause vitamin A toxicity.

Chocolate and Coffee – toxic to dogs and cats.

Raisins, grapes and sultanas – toxic to dogs and cats.

Macadamias and Walnuts – toxic to dogs and cats.

Green potatoes – the green parts are toxic to humans and pets.

Artificial sweeteners – particularly Xylitol.

Sugar and Salt

Dogs have less taste-buds than we do, so the subtleties of flavour that we enjoy may be lost on your pets. The good news is that you don’t need to share that lovely creamy french brie with your dog and it also goes some way towards explaining why dogs eat the things they do.

Dogs and cats are are more smell sensitive than taste-sensitive, even though the two are linked. This means you can easily cut out sugar and salt and your pet won’t miss it at all. Humans have acquired a taste for sweet and salty things, we don’t need to pass this onto our pets. Avoid adding large amounts of fat to treats, or feed these in very small quantities, particularly in dogs. Fatty and rich foods will often lead to a very smelly mess, with consequences such as diarrhoea and pancreatitis.

Introducing New Treats

Whenever you introduce a new food, feed a very small amount first. If your pet is prone to allergies or could have a food intolerance, you may need to wait up to a week to ensure they are not going to react.

Some allergies occur quickly, others are a little slower and more subtle. A food allergy may lead to itchy skin (particularly ear infections and licking the paws), loss of appetite, vomiting or diarrhea. Make sure not to change anything else in your pet’s diet to ensure you know what has caused the signs. If you suspect your pet has an allergy or food intolerance, get some advice from your veterinarian on how to do a proper food trial and formulate a nutritionally balanced diet.

Very Simple Biscuits

If your pet is a fan of dry food, and is a bit fussy, or is on a special diet and can’t have treats, the easiest way of making treats is to use their regular dry food. Simply place some biscuits into a bowl and pour in enough water to just cover them. Allow them to sit for ½ hour, then use your hands to mould them into shapes on a baking tray. These can then be baked in a cool oven at 200°F for an hour.

Basic Biscuit Recipe

If you want to branch out into making your own dog treats, experiment with this basic recipe. You can add additional ingredients such as mashed pumpkin, grated carrot, whole oats, wheatgerm, oat bran, bacon bits, canned tuna or salmon.

Ingredients

2 cups flour (substitute rice flour or any other type of flour if you like) 1 egg 1 tablespoon of oil ½ cup hot water with 1 tsp of salt reduced stock added

Step-by-Step

Whisk oil and egg, then add flour.

Gradually add water and stock mixture until desired consistency is reached.

Roll out dough onto floured surface then cut using biscuit cutter.

Alternatively if the dough is a softer consistency you can shape them with your hands and place them on a baking tray.

Bake at 350°F for 15-20 mins.

Cats

Cats are sometimes a little more discerning than dogs and may test your baking skills. Certainly I would not make a big batch of biscuits for a cat without trying a smaller quantity first. Cats often have a preference for seafood, so adjusting the basic biscuit recipe to include a can of tuna can be a real tempter.

Always be a little cautious if you regularly feed your cat a diet that strays from the normal formulated canned or dry cat foods. Many diets, particularly ‘fresh’ meat diets, contain preservatives that lead to Taurine and B vitamin deficiency. Cooking or freezing also degrades these essential nutrients. Your veterinarian can help you ensure the diet you feed is not missing any vital ingredients.

Jerky

You can easily make your own dried meat treats, either with a food dehydrator, or in the oven on the lowest setting. Meats such as beef tongue, heart and liver work very well. You can really use any cut of meat for jerky, but if there is a large amount of fat the jerky will go rancid more quickly.

The first step is to slice the meat into thin strips. Remember it will shrink, so aim for around 1 cm thick. Freezing the meat first makes it much easier to cut neatly and thinly with a sharp knife. Place the thin strips on a wire rack and place the rack on an oven tray to catch any drips. Cook at 200°F for around 1-2 hours, depending on how chewy or firm you want the jerky. The jerky will be a little flavourless, so you can add some marinade prior to cooking.

Vegetables

Many pets are also very happy to have fresh veggies as a treat. Try pieces of raw carrot, beans or whatever you are cooking up for dinner. You can just as easily carry carrot sticks with you to the dog park to train with, if your dog likes them.

A food dehydrator can also be used to make dried vegetable treats for your pets. Similar to jerky you can also dehydrate vegetables such as sweet potato in the oven after boiling for 5 minutes and drying. Bake thin slices of sweet potato or pumpkin in the oven at 200°F for 2 hours.

Storage of Treats

Generally all baked treats will keep for up to a week in an airtight container. Jerky will last for 3-4 days in an airtight container. You can also freeze jerky or biscuits for up to 6 months and thaw them in the refrigerator before use.

Bon Appetit! We hope you enjoy baking for your pets. The great thing about cooking for our pets, is that they are usually very grateful for anything, whether you are a gourmet cook or not.

LEARN MORE CLICK HERE

1 note · View note