hollyteague

[hollyteague]

Adult Acne Battle - £3000 Later (What I’ve Learned)

If you HAVEN’T struggled with Adult Acne - congratulations! Long may it last! The below is less relevant for occasional breakouts, but you still might find some bits useful... here is a table of contents so you can skip ahead.

NB: I am a normal person with 0 skincare qualifications, the below is my advice based on my own experience.

1. Intro

2. General Useful Info

3. Active Acne: Drugs from Docs

4. Easy Fixes/General Well-Being

5. General Rules

6. Acne Scarring (Clinical Treatment, Home Remedies)

7. Recommended Brands

8. Points of Interest

Intro

... it’s all you see in the mirror and every photo... it feels like a constant battle against yourself, you feel unhealthy and it actually REALLY HURTS. ... And it makes no sense, because you NEVER struggled with acne at school?! And you’re 25?! Life is hard enough!!!

Good News: you DON’T deserve it. Here is a list of things I’ve tried/researched and paid for (🤦‍♀️) so that you can explore some options with much less financial upheaval.

Bad News: it’s probs going to take 6-12 months before you see some results/work out what’s most beneficial to you. Sorry! But - slowly slowly catchy monkey & you will learn SO MUCH MORE than people with good skin in the process (knowledge = power) ... think that’s the only positive thing I can offer right now.

General Useful Info

- Your skin takes between 26-30 days to completely regenerate

- Your face is 64% water... DRINK DRINK DRINK

- LESS. IS. MORE. If you have problem skin, you are the beauty industry’s DREAAAAAM. There are SO many brands, SO many treatments and SO many people wanting to help, and you will pay ANYTHING for better skin. Proceed with caution! (Recommends for what I believe is “worth” considering are at the end of this doc)

- FROM NOW ON, use ONE cleanser TWICE a day & ONE moisturiser TWICE a day, then ONE scrub to be used ONCE a week. Even LESS if possible

- As an NB to the above 👆🏻 right now, you may well be making things worse (sorry). I visited a dermatologist who reminded me that the skin I do the LEAST with (he used my inner thigh as an example ... bit dodge 🤨) is currently the healthiest. That doesn’t mean there isn’t a problem, but does highlight the importance of giving yourself a break. Scrubs and I washes will really really irritate if used excessively.

Active Acne: Drugs from the Docs

(... because it’s NOT normal and it’s been going on FOREVER and the NHS need to sort it out and life isn’t FAIR 👊 💕 🌈 )

- LEVEL 1 - “Zineryt” - antibiotic which you apply to the skin. Note: you’re really only treating the epidermis here but if used in conjunction with:

- LEVEL 2 - Oral Antibiotics (various names) - internally treat 👍 you need at LEAST a three month course for this to be beneficial, and I don’t personally believe that using one without the other (oral and topical) would have much of an effect. They need to happen together

- LEVEL 3 - “Benzoyl peroxide” ... this really stings 😣 works as an antiseptic to reduce bacteria. NB: “peroxide” = bleach 🤢 😳 This is effective almost immediately but definitely causes skin irritation, and needs to be applied regularly... ie, regular stingy stingy. For some people, surface bacteria is the cause (even post-washing) so this treatment is a life-saver!

- LEVEL 4 - DUN DUN DUUUUUN - 🧙‍♀️ “Roaccutane” also known as “ Rizuderm” or “Isotretinoin” ... “when all else fails”. This is a nasty naaaasty drug and there are lots of waivers to sign before taking including promising not to get pregnant! I did not take this medication (although I was eligible) because it is highly dehydrating, and I didn’t know what effect it might have on my voice. However, I have three friends who have undergone the course, and aside from having to bath in coconut oil ever day, it was by FAR the most effective treatment. IMO, this is absolutely a last resort - read the side effects and decide if you really HAVE tried everything else before going to argue with a doctor 👩‍⚕️ 👨‍⚕️ 💕 they don’t particularly like prescribing it either

- For women, contraceptives willllllll be discussed as they’re the cheapest & easiest of the hormonal offerings (combi pill recommended for adult acne). This is really a personal preference thing, DONT feel pressured into switching like it’s the ONLY option. Try to keep a log of any significant skin changes through the month (even if you’re on a pill where you don’t bleed 🩸yum!) and if you HAVE recently switched contraceptives, it’ll take a good 6 months for things to settle/work through your body

- Topical Retinoids (various names) - discussed later under “Home Treatments” but occasionally prescribed by doctors... much less popular and much less effective for very active acne IMO

Easy Fixes/General Well-Being

- Try to drink a minimum of 2litres of water per day - much more if you are exercising. For every caffeinated or alcoholic drink, you -2 glasses of water 🍷 ☕️ ☹️💔 keep drinking! (Water, not wine!) Permanently attach a straw!

- Vitamins with biotin & keratin can really help (if you’re good at taking vitamins!) although I’m sceptical (I don’t think a keratin deficiency is the root cause of acne) & results are too slow for someone like me. However, if you DO have brittle nails/thinner hair, it may be worth considering

- Usual Mantra - happy body, happy mind - and undoubtedly better skin. Feed the machine good foods, and be mindful of sugar content, which really will have a direct effect. NB: Post-workout glow is definitely a thing! 💪

- Adult acne can often be a sign of something going on internally... have a health check & gets some bloods done. Initially I was diagnosed with early menopause (yikes!) but after additional tests I was told I (like lots of women) have PCOS. Not life threatening, but very useful information that I would have really appreciated a good 5 years ago 🤦‍♀️ and now shapes a lot of my diet/approach to health

General Rules

- Try not to touch your face/back/areas with breakout. Even clean fingers will transfer additional oils

- If you have a spot NEVER. EVER. EVER “pop” it!!! Leave it ALONE until it comes to a head, then use a sterile needle to make one SINGLE hole and gently squeeze. The more you pop, the more scarring you will have

- Wash face twice a day - once additionally if you exercise (try to wash as quickly as possible after you run to rebalance pH).

- Use medium temperature water. If you need to open pours or want to help a spot along 🤦‍♀️ use a hot towel on the one area rather than across your whole face, and make sure you finish with a cold compress to close everything back up again

- Invest in a silicone sponge to wash your face (link attached) they are cheap and help to keep hands away & bacteria at bay. There are lots of expensive silicone products (eg foreo luna have a silicone range that also vibrates ... I have one, it feels nice, but it’s just a gimmick!). Get rid of any muslin cloths/face flannels you’ve previously invested in

- Use ONE moisturiser, ONCE a day and make sure it has a good SPF. Brands recommended under ... “Recommended Brands”

- Exfoliation &/ glamorous face mask MAXIMUM once a week. (Less is more less is more less is more). Again, see “Recommended Brands”

- ... Ahhhhhh lovely makeup covering all of those unlovely lumps and bumps and then making additional lumps and bumps 🤦‍♀️ MINERAL MAKE UP ONLY, HENCEFORTH. And whatever happens, do NOT fall asleep in it.

Acne Scarring

😔😔😔😔 (when the battle is kind of (mostly) over, you realise this is the hardest bit to fix).

If you have scarring AND still have active acne, DONT BOTHER WITH ANY OF THE BELOW. There’s really no point. Get the initial problem under control, THEN you can start thinking about how you’re going to get yourself to bare faced freedom.

Clinic Treatments

- LEVEL 1 - “Milk Peel”- the least abrasive chemical peel... between 4 & 8 treatments recommended, each treatment lasts about 45 mins. Lovely experience! No makeup for 24 hours and healthy skin looks kind of glowy for a day or two......... however, absolutely zero effect on scarring (total cost, £200!)

- LEVEL 2 - “Chemical Chemical Peel” - this was called a “Cosmo” - no idea what that means really other than it hurt MORE than the milk peel and left my significantly more red, with peeling etc. These treatments definitely DID have an effect, and perhaps with another round of 4, I would be a disciple... I really feel that the aftercare is annoying though... and it really is an uncomfortable procedure (acid on the face... yeah... hmmm). Cost - £250 for 4 appointments

- LEVEL 3 - “Micro Needling” - NOW. THIS ONE, if you can afford it, makes the most sense. Essentially, the needle re-damages the skin, encouraging it to re-heal itself, promoting collagen and elastin in the process. Hurts less than a chemical peel too 😂🤦‍♀️ course of 4 - £400. Excellent. 🤦‍♀️😒

- LEVEL 4 - “Laser Skin Resurfacing” ... I’m too poor to try this, but I would imagine the results are amazing .... it’s a laser, and it re-surfaces your skin, so 🧙‍♀️. Single Treatment, costs range from £600-£1000. Advice: GO TO A DERMATOLOGIST. I’m sure cheaper alternatives are available at salons and I’m SURE all salon practitioners are registered and hygienic but ... again - IT’S A LASER... ON YOUR FACE.

Yum yum yum - after most of these treatments, you might be asked if you want to sit under a LED Light Box - say yes! It takes 15 mins ish and kills bacteria.

DON’T BOTHER WITH:

- Dermaplaning! You might not be eligible anyway if you have particularly bad scarring.... lovely treatment with many benefits, but won’t fix anything

- Microdermabrasion! As above! Also really might not be a good idea if your skin is particularly sensitive after all the lotions and potions you’ve been using to try & clear up all that acne

- Any kind of facial that claims to use super special fancy lotions. It will be a lovely experience, but it will do very little.

Home Treatments

- The Ordinary (see “Recommended Brands”) have an exfoliating peel (ONCE A WEEK. ONCE A WEEK!) which does certainly lift and brighten - search for “AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution” (easy to type, eh)

- Retinols ... to be used with caution. The Ordinary provide an affordable range of %s - retinol works to increase cell renewal and tackle blemishes and pigmentation... Start a lower % and be super careful to use an SPF. If you have active acne, avoid - it will irritate it further

- Home Derma-Rollers - similar concept to the microneedling treatment, but you MUST. MUST. Keep your equipment sterile and keep rolling to a MINIMUM. Every two weeks is still too much! Give your skin a break!!!!!! Rome wasn’t built in a day!

Recommended Brands

- Bare Minerals, for all make up. Other mineral brands are available, but I like the ethos of Bare & the customer service they provide is second to none. They will give you lots of samples to try, and ALL of their staff are real brand pioneers. They’ll also do you a full face of makeup with no appointment, which is very much appreciated on a bad day. Love u Bare Minerals 💕 (Cost: Mid-Range)

- For me, Dermalogica is the one and only skincare brand 💋💋 It’s the easiest of all and feels like a professional product at all times. You only need ONE cleanser (Ultra Calming, to calm me down - thanking you) ONE moisturiser (more options available, but I would stick with Active Moist) and ONE exfoliator/scrub (Daily Microfoliant is fine, but - don’t use daily 🤦‍♀️). For heavier make up wearers, Precleanse Oil is a blessing. Again - samples available and if you go to a department store, lots of advice will be offered. Don’t be seduced by serums. (Cost: Mid-High Range)

- The Ordinary (mentioned above) are kind of cool because they just sell the BASIC product ingredients, making them much cheaper. Woohoo! You can concoct your OWN lotions and potions, how exciting! However, proceed with caution: you may find you end up a failed skin scientist, as lots of the chemicals will cancel each other out/won’t be effective. Eg. Vitamin C Suspension with Retinol in Squalene which you might be tempted to use after some research. There are articles available online to help with this

- CHEAPEST OF ALL - “Kaeso” (available online) sells a box containing cleanser, toner, moisturiser, exfoliator and mask for approx £20. The “Rebalancing” collection is for problem skin, although the hydrating collection may also be nice to try. You get SO much product for so little here, but IMO, if you have particularly bad acne, the cleanser actually isn’t strong enough. Useful to have in the cupboard though/when payday feels a long way away.

- Other brands: Juliette Armand (Cleanser & Moisturiser yum yum!) ZO Skin Health (although these are usually salon based only) Environ (far superior, but less affordable for me!). Again - you only need ONE cleanser & ONE moisturiser, then ONE scrub to be used ONCE a week!!!

Dermalogica, The Ordinary, Kaeso Beauty & Bare Minerals are all cruelty free paraben free microbead free formaldehyde free etc etc but more research needs to be taken with other recommended brands. NB: If you choose to use a moisturiser/makeup that doesn’t contain an SPF, you WILL need an SPF additionally, even on a cloudy day ☁️ Embrace the Vit D but say no to sun damage

Points of Interest

- Male & Female skin have different structures and will respond differently to different products and treatments. Most notable, male skin is about 25% thicker so much tougher, which more sebum production ie. guys are more prone to blackheads.

- There is much research being done into the acne occurrence as a predictable side effect of masculinizing hormonal therapy in transgender patients, after six months or more of testosterone treatment. More research necessary but I HAVE read that antibios have proved to be effective, as well as low doses of Isotretinoin, although this is far less likely to be prescribed due to anxiety/depression side effects.

- Super weird - peanut butter (aside from having high fat & sugar levels ... brand dependent obvs) CAN sometimes contain androgens (male sex hormones) ... give it a google, it’s all a bit strange but might lead you to cutting down

- Toothpaste DOES help to dry problem spots out ... the cheaper the brand the better 😂 🦷

#acne #adult acne #skincare #dermatology #microneedling #beauty #skincare routine #hormonal #hormones #treatment