Cold, Remote and Short of Women: A Portrait of Life on the Faroe Islands
— March 23, 2023 | By Oscar Holland
Aadne and Jóannes, 51-year-old twin brothers in the Faroe Islands, which has 107 men for every 100 women. "I pray to God that I will find a wife," Jóannes told photographer Andrea Gjestvang. "But maybe he doesn't hear me."Scroll through the gallery to see more images from Gjestvang's book "Atlantic Cowboy." Andrea Gjestvang/GOST Books
In her striking images of the Faroe Islands, a remote archipelago between Iceland and her native Norway, photographer Andrea Gjestvang depicts islanders and livelihoods that are as tough and unforgiving as the windswept landscape.
Fishing trawlers travel through frigid seas. Clouds roll over craggy mountains and cliffside villages. Clothes and boots are stained with the blood of slaughtered livestock and marine animals. Well-used tools hang from the walls of traditional wooden buildings.
The innate connection between Faroese people and their surroundings is woven through Gjestvang's new book about the islands, "Atlantic Cowboy." Portraits appear alongside dramatic landscape shots that reiterate the Faroes' harsh conditions and remoteness of settlements dwarfed by neighboring mountains.
"I'm not a landscape photographer but, just like when I portray people, when I photograph a landscape, I look for mood," Gjestvang said during a video interview. "I try to think about the landscape as also kind of a portrait, or something that express feelings, somehow."
Gjestvang's photos also reveal another challenging aspect of life in the Faroes, which may have been first inhabited by Irish monks in the 6th century: Her subjects are almost exclusively male.
A young boy on a ferry traveling from the Faroe Islands' capital, Tórshavn, to the archipelago's southernmost island, Suduroy. Andrea Gjestvang/GOST Books
Gjestvang also captured the rugged geography of the Faroe Islands. "When I photograph a landscape, I look for mood," she said. "I try to think about the landscape as also kind of a portrait, or something that expresses feelings, somehow." Andrea Gjestvang/GOST Books
Though much of the Faroese economy revolves around physically demanding jobs traditionally taken by men — the islands' fishing industry alone employs 15% of the workforce. Visiting several times annually over the course of six years, Gjestvang trained her lens on the lives and communities of the islands' unmarried men. They are shown plucking seabirds' feathers, tending to goats or hauling the carcasses of a slaughtered pilot whales to shore. (Whale meat was once an important part of the Faroese diet, though the nation's controversial whale and dolphin hunts now spark global outrage.)
Young women, meanwhile, often choose to study or work in Copenhagen (the Faroe Islands are part of the Kingdom of Denmark) or elsewhere in Europe. Many never return, Gjestvang learned. According to World Bank data, just 48.2% of the self-governing nation's population in 2021 was female, putting it among the most gender-imbalanced places in Europe. This equates to over 107 men for every 100 women, or a deficit of roughly 2,000 females.
Faroe Islander Fróði rests on the carcass of a pilot whale after a "grindadráp," or whale hunt, a controversial tradition that often sparks global outrage. Andrea Gjestvang/GOST Books
Rogni and Odin, aged 26 and 25 respectively, are among only a handful of people living in Mykines, the Faroes' westernmost island. Andrea Gjestvang/GOST Books
This number may not seem huge, but with the 17 inhabited islands only home to around 53,000 people — and the gender gap more pronounced among younger adults — it poses significant societal implications. Faroese Prime Minister Aksel V. Johannesen said "skewed gender demographics" were among his government's "greatest challenges" upon first taking office in 2015.
For Gjestvang, this dynamic offered an "an interesting opportunity to do a project on men," she said. "As a female photographer, I get commissioned a lot to do women's health stories, and women's issues — which are very important — but I was curious to turn my camera in a different direction."
A carpentry workshop in the capital Tórshavn. Andrea Gjestvang/GOST Books
Faroe Islander Hjalmar is pictured while slaughtering sheep on a farm in the village of Kaldbaksbotnur. Andrea Gjestvang/GOST Books
Evolving Masculinity
Economic prospects for Faroese women now look rosier than in the 1990s, when thousands of people left the amid an economic collapse caused, in part, by shrinking fish stocks. Boosted by a growing tourism and service sectors, the GDP per capita has tripled since 2000 and is now on par with that of the United States.
The nation's government has in recent years invested in gender equality and employment initiatives in the hope of making the islands more appealing to women. "They have tried to make it slightly easier to be a single mother," Gjestvang added, citing expanded offerings at the capital's university and increased acceptance of remote working due to the Covid-19 pandemic.
The Faroe Islands' second-largest town, Klaksvík. Andrea Gjestvang/GOST Books
One of Gjestvang's subjects, 54-year-old Andrias, is pictured with his kitten outside his home in Vidareidi. He studied in Denmark before returning to the Faroe Islands and buying a boat. Andrea Gjestvang/GOST Books
The photographer said the lack of women was not evident in the Faroese capital, Tórshavn, though it became "quite visible" when traveling to smaller villages. The social lives of these coastal communities often revolve around harbors, and she spent time visiting the informal meeting places where men "hang out, have beers and talk."
But Gjestvang's sensitive portraits also offer a candid snapshot of men in their own homes. Several are captured sitting or lying alone on sofas, while others are pictured with pets or female relatives. In accompanying interviews, some of which in her book, her subjects opened up about the realities of life in a male-dominated society. "I pray to God that I will find a wife," one unmarried man told her. "But maybe he doesn't hear me."
The photographer believes, however, that most of the men she documented were not lonely — thanks, in part, to the close-knit nature of Faroese families. As one 40-year-old told her: "Strong family ties become a substitute. I already have a family myself, even though I don't have a wife and children. When you have an extended, close-knit family, you have the freedom to be yourself and find peace with that."
"One man I interviewed told me that the Faroe Islands is the perfect playground for men," the photographer added, explaining her book's title. ("Atlantic Cowboy" is a term borrowed from a 1997 book of the same name and later used by Firouz Gaini, a professor of anthropology at the University of the Faroe Islands who has studied the nation's gender dynamics and wrote a foreword for Gjestvang.)
"It's a place where you can and fish and be outdoors and the freedom is endless, somehow," Gjestvang said.
A temporary amusement park in the town of Vágur. Andrea Gjestvang/Andrea Gjestvang
Decades of lop-sided demographics have meanwhile contributed to a national identity that continues to celebrate virtues of strength and fortitude, the photographer added.
"To be strong, and to provide for yourself and your family has been an important value," she said. "The idea of the strong man is very present, and you can see it ... This kind of masculinity has gained a lot of respect, and has been sought-after.
"I think this has, of course, affected society, even though I will say that Faroese women are also very strong — they are tough, too."
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WALLOWS LINES THAT MAKE ME FEEL
• 'my life's going by, but it's just begun.'
• 'all the times that feel like everything, when nothing really happens at all.'
• 'all the things you don't wanna let go, you wanna look back on in the cold.'
• 'there's a time you'll seek out a disguise, when you think people hate you the most. and it gets worse before it gets better, that's one thing that i've come to know. just so you know.'
• 'you've turned into someone that i never knew.'
• 'pick up the pieces, finding a place in the world to be.'
• 'when shit gets hard, don't worry about me.'
• 'laugh when i hit the ground.'
• 'we were wanting to grow up every weekend, now we're watching the moments as they're leaving.'
• 'don't let them take away all the games we've played; go on and take a bow, 'cause it's over now.'
• 'we can get up and try to feel ok again.'
• 'you & i, we grew up in the suburbs, now you're gone, the city's done a number. it is not the same without you around.'
• 'am i so thin that you can see through?'
the fact that such a hit of a line comes from one of their most batshit crazy songs is so funny to me
• 'thought i saw your shadow under the door - just a trick of the light i've seen before.'
• 'what age would you call your prime? we've been at this for a long time.'
• 'i can't make up another drawn-out vague excuse.'
• 'is my silence deafening you?'
• 'i hope you're happy with the things that you've got, and i'll still remember all the bright parking lots.'
• 'heart on my sleeve, i just can't believe that i wasn't doing enough.'
• 'let's invite your friends for a backseat drive.'
• 'it's not a crime if you take what's given - it's just a crime if you're paying for it.'
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Kind of WMMAP AU x Harvest Moon AU?
Your name is Claire, and you're a farmer living in Bluebell Village. You just finished the quest of making 'Riverside Cottage' at the edge of the village because you take it upon yourself to rebuild the village and make it prosper again because why not.
Soon enough two people move in from faraway lands, they're called "Mr. Lucas and Mrs. Athy", with their dog Sir Nox! They're newlyweds with extraordinary beauty! You've never seen anyone as beautiful as Mrs. Athy before.
Her name reminds you of the missing Obelian Princess, Princess Athanasia though. But why would a Princess be stranded here in a remote village in Arlanta Borders?
They moved in your newly build Riverside Cottage, and Mrs. Athy became Bluebell's new florist, and Mr. Lucas is an alchemist! You want to befriend them for new recipes and blueprints and freebies. Let's make a list of what they like!
Mrs. Athy is born in Winter 3rd, she's kind, delicate, beautiful, and very knowledgeable! She's like a walking dictionary. She's a little shy at first, but will quickly warm up to us. As our florist she can be found on Monday, Tuesday, Thursday at 9 - 5 PM in her glasshouse near the Square. Other than those times she's usually in the Town Library, teaching village's children or Dawn Cafe. After 6 PM, she's in her house.
Favorite Flowers: all colors of Roses and Rose Bouquets, Lily and Lily Bouquets.
Favorite Food: Chocolate Cake.
Worst Gift: Octopus and any kind of food with octopus.
Gifts obtained from Mrs. Athy:
Rainbow Rose Seeds, Chocolate Curry Recipe, Farmer Princess Outfit, Palace Interior Design.
Her husband, Mr. Lucas is the polar opposite of Mrs. Athy! He's often rude and aloof, and grouchy in the mornings. He's your village's alchemist and you can buy Animal Potions, Stamina Potions, Crop Enhancers and stuff! He will also sell gemstones and tool blueprints if you befriended him (or if you bring Mrs. Athy with you). His birthday is in Winter 25th.
He can be found in Mrs. Athy's greenhouse (they share shop space, romantic!) during her working hours, other than that usually he's in his home, working on his potions (you can't visit or give him gifts at this time). After 6PM he's in his house.
Favorite Flowers: Red Roses, Chrysanthemums, Carnations, Poppies. (He dislikes Bouquets)
Favorite Food: Chocolate Curry.
Worst Gift: 90% of vegetable dishes, Eggplant, Carrot.
Gifts obtained from Mr. Lucas:
Gold Animal Potion (gifted once, can buy in his shop after. To make any animal produce Golden goods), Coffee Tree Seeds (gifted once, can be bought in his shop after), Witch Outfit, Magician's Den Interior Design.
You can't wait until you can befriend the two! Good luck for you!
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