#piraeus lion
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The Parthenon marbles this, the Parthenon marbles that...
I don´t know how known the extent of Greek antiquity looting by West Europeans is to most people or most have a limited image painting the British Museum or Lord Elgin as the sole / main villain.
Here we have the Piraeus Lion (Italian: Leone del Pireo) , one of the four lions decorating the Venetian arsenal in Italy. The prominence of the 3 meter tall lion statue in the port is such that it is also known as Porto Leone ("Lion Port").
We are eternally thankful for the massive courtesy of calling the statue the Piraeus Lion, indicating its origin from Piraeus, the port city of Athens. The statue was sculpted around 360 BC and remained a famous landmark of Piraeus, Athens until 1687.
In 1687, it was looted by Venetian naval commander Francesco Morosini, the man also notoriously responsible for the bombardment of the Parthenon during the wars of the Venetians with the Ottoman Turks, therefore in fact the most irreversible destruction it suffered in its 2,500 year long history. Somehow they were fighting the Turks but it was the Greeks paying for it.
Is it totally and universally acknowledged that Morosini illegally looted this sculpture among so many others? Yes. Does the Piraeus Lion still sit casually in the Venetian port in 2024 as if Venice has a shortage of artefacts to decorate itself with? Also yes. Meanwhile, the Greeks have to limit themselves to a replica in the Piraeus Archaeological Museum.
The Horses of Saint Mark in Venice are also Greek artefacts, this time looted from Constantinople during the crusades, although their original display was in Chios island. Another thing little known is how many ancient and medieval Greek artefacts were looted from the Eastern Roman / Byzantine Empire because people tend to focus on classical antiquities looted in the 19th century.
[Fun fact: The Piraeus Lion has runic inscriptions carved by Swedes in the 11th century. These were either Viking explorers or Varangian mercenaries of the Byzantine Empire.]
#greece#europe#greek culture#ancient greece#western appropriation#crusades#antiquity looting#ancient greek statues#piraeus lion#venice
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It's #NationalBirdDay so I want to talk about birds in mythology. There are many stories from ancient Greece about mythological birds and half-bird creatures.
Birds of Ares
The Birds of Ares (Ornithes Areioi in ancient Greek) were a flock of arrow-feathered birds which the god had set to guard his sacred shrine on the Black Sea island of Dia, also called Ares' Island. It had been built by the Amazons, his daughters. The birds were encountered by the Argonauts in their quest for the Golden Fleece. The heroes raised their shields as a defence against the birds' deadly volleys of arrows and with a clash of shield and spear scared them away.
The Birds of Ares were sometimes identified with the Stymphalian Birds driven off by Herakles (see below).
Griffins
The Griphoi or Griffins is a hybrid creature with the head and wings of an eagle and the body of a lion. They guard a treasure of gold by the border to Hyperborea. Griffins were popular decorations in ancient Greek art, for example the helm of the statue of Athena Piraeus:
Source: Athens, Archaeological Museum of Piraeus © 2014. Photo: Ilya Shurygin.
Harpies
The Harpyiai or Harpies were depicted as winged women, sometimes with ugly faces, or with the lower bodies of birds. They were the spirits of sudden, dangerous gusts of wind and were sent by the gods to snatch up people and things from the dark earth. A missing person was said to have been snatched by the Harpies.
Hippalektryon
The Hippalektryon, literally "horse-cock" or "horse-rooster" (hippos = horse, alektryôn = cock) is a hybrid creature with the head and sometimes forelegs of a horse and the wings, tail and back-legs of a male chicken. @sigeel drew them most beautifully, tended to by Demeter and Persephone.
Phoenix
This bird is still well-known today through the saying "rising like a Phoenix from the ashes". It was said to resemble an eagle, with feathers partly red and partly golden. The Phoenix flies from Arabia to the Temple of the Sun (Ra) in Heliopolis in Egypt every 500 years to bury its father encased in myrrh. And there only is a father because the Phoenix begets itself.
The tale of the Phoenix actually rising from its own ashes is related in a 4th century CE Roman text called "The Phoenix":
...the pyre conceives the new life; Nature takes care that the deathless bird perish not, and calls upon the sun, mindful of his promise, to restore its immortal glory to the world.
Straightway the life spirit surges through his scattered limbs; the renovated blood floods his veins. The ashes show signs of life; they begin to move though there is none to move them, and feathers clothe the mass of cinders. He who was but now the sire comes forth from the pyre the son and successor; between life and life lay but that brief space wherein the pyre burned.
His first delight is to consecrate his father's spirit by the banks of the Nile and to carry to the land of Aegyptus (Egypt) the burned mass from which he was born.
Sirens
The Seirenes or Sirens were depicted as birds with either the heads or entire upper bodies of women. They are well-known from the Odyssey for their enchanting song.
Lovely Terpsichore, one of the Muses, had borne them [the Sirens] to Akheloos, and at one time they had been handmaids to Demeter's gallant Daughter [Persephone], before she was married, and sung to her in chorus. But now, half human and half bird in form, they spent their time watching for ships from a height that overlooked their excellent harbour; and many a traveller, reduced by them to skin and bones, had forfeited the happiness of reaching home.
Apollonios Rhodios, Argonautika 4.892
The shape of the Sirens, a bird with a woman's head, was popular as a vessel for perfumes and cosmetics.
Stymphalian Birds
The Stymphalian Birds were a flock of man-eating birds of prey which lived around Lake Stymphalis in Arkadia on the Peloponnese. Herakles had to deal with them for the sixth of his twelve labours:
Herakles was stumped by the problem of driving the birds out of the woods, but Athena got some bronze noise-makers from Hephaistos and gave them to him, and by shaking these from a mountain adjacent to the lake frightened the birds. Not enduring the racket, they flew up in fear, and in this manner Herakles reached them with his arrows.
Pseudo-Apollodorus, Bibliotheca 2.92
The Stymphalian Birds were sometimes identified with the arrow-shooting Birds of Ares that were encountered by the Argonauts (see above).
According to Pausanias' Description of Greece there was also an old sanctuary of Stymphalian Artemis in Stymphalos and near the roof of her temple the Stymphalian birds had been carved.
Which is your favourite birb story from mythology?
#National Bird Day#mythology#Greek mythology#bird#birds#Demeter#Persephone#Harpies#Sirens#Phoenix#Ares#Helios#Ra#Artemis#Herakles#Heracles#Athena#Athene#Athene art#Greek mythology info
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Random Fact #6,409
The Piraeus Lion statue in Venice has 11th century graffiti on it on both sides.
The writing on the right reads “Asmund carved these runes along with Asgeir and Thorlief, Thord, and Ivar at the request of Harald the Tall, though the Greeks thought about it and forbade it.”
On the left it says “Hakon, along with Ulf and Asmund and Orn, won this seaport. These men, with Harald the Tall, imposed a fine because of the uprising of the Greeks. Dalk remains [held] against his will in distant lands. Egil went on a journey with Ragnar to Romania and Armenia.”
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FFF!!!
You're getting Viking graffiti, hope you don't mind.
Alright so the Hagia Sophia, that massive mosque in Istanbul?
You probably know that before the Ottoman Turks conquered the city, back when it was Constantinople, this was a church. Well something some people don't know is that in the days of the Byzantine Empire, someone put graffiti on one of the walls on the top floor. A lot of it doesn't survive, but--
"Halfdan carved these runes." There's another that said much the same thing but with the name 'Ari.'
There's also a shoutout to this in Assassin's Creed: Valhalla in the modern day segment, in which you can see the carving on a rock, which fans are speculating what it means.
Also! There was a lion statue in Piraeus graffiti'd with runes:
So what's the story here?
Okay, so the Byzantine Empire had something called the Varangian Guard, a group of Nordic warriors who were hired as elite guards. 'Cause, you know, those guys could fight. It's likely they, in their time off, decided to go around and carve their names in stuff.
As one does.
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Top two are at Piraeus: a beach and an island near the marina where we had lunch.
The rest are inside the Acropolis Museum. Firstly, a couple of models of what it looked like a couple of millennia ago, then some scary gods and a couple of goddesses from the Temple of Erechtheion. Some miniature reproductions of the friezes above the ends of the Parthenon. An interesting view looking up (ladies' dresses) from the ground floor - and later, us looking down from above - The photographer's shadow (moi) and Heather's hiking stick can be seen if you look closely. A gargoyle recovered from the ruins and a sheet containing dozens of beautiful gold coins from the same period. A lion and several sculpted reliefs (dozens of them there and all exquisitely wrought, mostly containing horses). And lastly, looking down into the 'No Photography' area, but from the opposite end of the hall, with no signage. Many of the figures in this area are quite wonderful - absolutely beautiful and equal to the best current-day artists anywhere.
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Stolen goods... https://greekreporter.com/2022/03/28/ancient-greek-lion-piraeus-venice/ #fotoreizen #Photothema https://www.instagram.com/p/CklNKOBIeqX/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=
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The Best Christmas Gifts
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The Venetian Arsenal's main gate, the Porta Magna, ft. pigeons, sculptures of Roman gods, the Piraeus Lion (on both sides) and the Lion of Saint Mark (top).
Arsenal is a complex of former shipyards and armories. The main gate was built circa 1460 and it’s considered the first works of Renaissance architecture in Venice. It is also based on a triumphal arch in Pula, Croatia (👀) called the Roman Arch of the Sergii, back then when our country was under Venetian territory.
(Day 2)
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Beards assumed a most venerable appearance
It was very hot, and the road was very dusty—indeed, the whole country about appeared parched up to the last degree of drought. We put up the windows, but the dust still got in, and, before long, our beards assumed a most venerable appearance. We stopped to bait at a little wine-shed, half-way on the road, where there was a well, and where one or two Albanians, lounging about under a rude trellis of grapes, made an effective “bit.” Here we had some iced lemonade, which appeared to be all the establishment afforded, with some lumps of Turkish sweetmeat; and then we dragged on again for another half-hour, in the heat and dust, until we were deposited at the door of the Hotel d’Qrient — a fine house, furnished in the English fashion, and formerly a palace, as the toutcr had informed us. Demetri now told us that he let horses, with English saddles, to travellers; and that, if wo wished to see all the “ lions,” we must hire some, otherwise there would not bo time to do so. So we had up some stumbling ponies from the town, for which we were to pay a dollar each; and then started to visit the wonders, and be back to dinner by five o’clock.
“ Athens in six hours” is rather quick work to be sure; however, after I had been taken the round of the usual sights, I should have been sorry to have remained there much longer. But the exceeding beauty of the ruins can scarcely be overpraised; albeit, the degree of enthusiasm, real or conventional, with which one regards them, must depend entirely upon such early classical training as the traveller may have been fortunate enough to have
undergone. Yet I doubt whether I could have gazed upon those of graceful remains with greater delight than I did on this occasion, had I gone through any further preparation to visit them, than had been afforded by an ordinary public school education. Apart from their histories and their associations — their lovely symmetry, the effect of their clean sandstone color against the bright blue sky, their admirable position, and the horizon of finely swelling purple hills almost surrounding them, broken to the south-west by the silver harbor of the Piraeus, were quite sufficient to call up the most vivid sensations of delight. Their beauty, also, was enhanced by the picturesque people who idled about them — all was so artistic, so sunny, so admirably thrown together, that whichever way the eye was turned, it appeared to rest on the reality of some exquisite drop-scene.
Elgin marbles
Guardians are stationed where there is anything to knock off and carry away more portable than the Elgin marbles. The interior of the temple of Theseus is used as a museum; and the fragments arc of greater interest, oven to the most ordinary traveller, than such as he may elsewhere encounter. Here we made a luncheon from some singularly fine grapes and fresh figs, with bread, spread on part of a column, and then proceeded to the Acropolis, which Demetri had properly kept for the last visit. From hence the view was most superb, but it wanted the relief of green. Everything, for miles round, was baked up.
The channel of the Ilyssus was without water, and the barley which covers the undulating ground had all been cut, leaving only the naked hot reddish tracts of land rose festival tour. The guardians had a sort of habitation below the Propykea, and cultivated a few vegetables in small artificial gardens, the leaves of which looked quite refreshing. Amongst the masses of marble ruins which the Turks had tumbled down from the Parthenon, to make cannon-balls from, or grind up for mortar, several wild plants trailed and flourished. One of these bore a green fruit, which, being ripe, burst, into dust the instant it was touched, however gently, by the foot; and the guides appeared more anxious to call the attention of the visitors to this fact, than to the solemn glories of the Acropolis.
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Beards assumed a most venerable appearance
It was very hot, and the road was very dusty—indeed, the whole country about appeared parched up to the last degree of drought. We put up the windows, but the dust still got in, and, before long, our beards assumed a most venerable appearance. We stopped to bait at a little wine-shed, half-way on the road, where there was a well, and where one or two Albanians, lounging about under a rude trellis of grapes, made an effective “bit.” Here we had some iced lemonade, which appeared to be all the establishment afforded, with some lumps of Turkish sweetmeat; and then we dragged on again for another half-hour, in the heat and dust, until we were deposited at the door of the Hotel d’Qrient — a fine house, furnished in the English fashion, and formerly a palace, as the toutcr had informed us. Demetri now told us that he let horses, with English saddles, to travellers; and that, if wo wished to see all the “ lions,” we must hire some, otherwise there would not bo time to do so. So we had up some stumbling ponies from the town, for which we were to pay a dollar each; and then started to visit the wonders, and be back to dinner by five o’clock.
“ Athens in six hours” is rather quick work to be sure; however, after I had been taken the round of the usual sights, I should have been sorry to have remained there much longer. But the exceeding beauty of the ruins can scarcely be overpraised; albeit, the degree of enthusiasm, real or conventional, with which one regards them, must depend entirely upon such early classical training as the traveller may have been fortunate enough to have
undergone. Yet I doubt whether I could have gazed upon those of graceful remains with greater delight than I did on this occasion, had I gone through any further preparation to visit them, than had been afforded by an ordinary public school education. Apart from their histories and their associations — their lovely symmetry, the effect of their clean sandstone color against the bright blue sky, their admirable position, and the horizon of finely swelling purple hills almost surrounding them, broken to the south-west by the silver harbor of the Piraeus, were quite sufficient to call up the most vivid sensations of delight. Their beauty, also, was enhanced by the picturesque people who idled about them — all was so artistic, so sunny, so admirably thrown together, that whichever way the eye was turned, it appeared to rest on the reality of some exquisite drop-scene.
Elgin marbles
Guardians are stationed where there is anything to knock off and carry away more portable than the Elgin marbles. The interior of the temple of Theseus is used as a museum; and the fragments arc of greater interest, oven to the most ordinary traveller, than such as he may elsewhere encounter. Here we made a luncheon from some singularly fine grapes and fresh figs, with bread, spread on part of a column, and then proceeded to the Acropolis, which Demetri had properly kept for the last visit. From hence the view was most superb, but it wanted the relief of green. Everything, for miles round, was baked up.
The channel of the Ilyssus was without water, and the barley which covers the undulating ground had all been cut, leaving only the naked hot reddish tracts of land rose festival tour. The guardians had a sort of habitation below the Propykea, and cultivated a few vegetables in small artificial gardens, the leaves of which looked quite refreshing. Amongst the masses of marble ruins which the Turks had tumbled down from the Parthenon, to make cannon-balls from, or grind up for mortar, several wild plants trailed and flourished. One of these bore a green fruit, which, being ripe, burst, into dust the instant it was touched, however gently, by the foot; and the guides appeared more anxious to call the attention of the visitors to this fact, than to the solemn glories of the Acropolis.
0 notes
Photo
Beards assumed a most venerable appearance
It was very hot, and the road was very dusty—indeed, the whole country about appeared parched up to the last degree of drought. We put up the windows, but the dust still got in, and, before long, our beards assumed a most venerable appearance. We stopped to bait at a little wine-shed, half-way on the road, where there was a well, and where one or two Albanians, lounging about under a rude trellis of grapes, made an effective “bit.” Here we had some iced lemonade, which appeared to be all the establishment afforded, with some lumps of Turkish sweetmeat; and then we dragged on again for another half-hour, in the heat and dust, until we were deposited at the door of the Hotel d’Qrient — a fine house, furnished in the English fashion, and formerly a palace, as the toutcr had informed us. Demetri now told us that he let horses, with English saddles, to travellers; and that, if wo wished to see all the “ lions,” we must hire some, otherwise there would not bo time to do so. So we had up some stumbling ponies from the town, for which we were to pay a dollar each; and then started to visit the wonders, and be back to dinner by five o’clock.
“ Athens in six hours” is rather quick work to be sure; however, after I had been taken the round of the usual sights, I should have been sorry to have remained there much longer. But the exceeding beauty of the ruins can scarcely be overpraised; albeit, the degree of enthusiasm, real or conventional, with which one regards them, must depend entirely upon such early classical training as the traveller may have been fortunate enough to have
undergone. Yet I doubt whether I could have gazed upon those of graceful remains with greater delight than I did on this occasion, had I gone through any further preparation to visit them, than had been afforded by an ordinary public school education. Apart from their histories and their associations — their lovely symmetry, the effect of their clean sandstone color against the bright blue sky, their admirable position, and the horizon of finely swelling purple hills almost surrounding them, broken to the south-west by the silver harbor of the Piraeus, were quite sufficient to call up the most vivid sensations of delight. Their beauty, also, was enhanced by the picturesque people who idled about them — all was so artistic, so sunny, so admirably thrown together, that whichever way the eye was turned, it appeared to rest on the reality of some exquisite drop-scene.
Elgin marbles
Guardians are stationed where there is anything to knock off and carry away more portable than the Elgin marbles. The interior of the temple of Theseus is used as a museum; and the fragments arc of greater interest, oven to the most ordinary traveller, than such as he may elsewhere encounter. Here we made a luncheon from some singularly fine grapes and fresh figs, with bread, spread on part of a column, and then proceeded to the Acropolis, which Demetri had properly kept for the last visit. From hence the view was most superb, but it wanted the relief of green. Everything, for miles round, was baked up.
The channel of the Ilyssus was without water, and the barley which covers the undulating ground had all been cut, leaving only the naked hot reddish tracts of land rose festival tour. The guardians had a sort of habitation below the Propykea, and cultivated a few vegetables in small artificial gardens, the leaves of which looked quite refreshing. Amongst the masses of marble ruins which the Turks had tumbled down from the Parthenon, to make cannon-balls from, or grind up for mortar, several wild plants trailed and flourished. One of these bore a green fruit, which, being ripe, burst, into dust the instant it was touched, however gently, by the foot; and the guides appeared more anxious to call the attention of the visitors to this fact, than to the solemn glories of the Acropolis.
0 notes
Photo
Beards assumed a most venerable appearance
It was very hot, and the road was very dusty—indeed, the whole country about appeared parched up to the last degree of drought. We put up the windows, but the dust still got in, and, before long, our beards assumed a most venerable appearance. We stopped to bait at a little wine-shed, half-way on the road, where there was a well, and where one or two Albanians, lounging about under a rude trellis of grapes, made an effective “bit.” Here we had some iced lemonade, which appeared to be all the establishment afforded, with some lumps of Turkish sweetmeat; and then we dragged on again for another half-hour, in the heat and dust, until we were deposited at the door of the Hotel d’Qrient — a fine house, furnished in the English fashion, and formerly a palace, as the toutcr had informed us. Demetri now told us that he let horses, with English saddles, to travellers; and that, if wo wished to see all the “ lions,” we must hire some, otherwise there would not bo time to do so. So we had up some stumbling ponies from the town, for which we were to pay a dollar each; and then started to visit the wonders, and be back to dinner by five o’clock.
“ Athens in six hours” is rather quick work to be sure; however, after I had been taken the round of the usual sights, I should have been sorry to have remained there much longer. But the exceeding beauty of the ruins can scarcely be overpraised; albeit, the degree of enthusiasm, real or conventional, with which one regards them, must depend entirely upon such early classical training as the traveller may have been fortunate enough to have
undergone. Yet I doubt whether I could have gazed upon those of graceful remains with greater delight than I did on this occasion, had I gone through any further preparation to visit them, than had been afforded by an ordinary public school education. Apart from their histories and their associations — their lovely symmetry, the effect of their clean sandstone color against the bright blue sky, their admirable position, and the horizon of finely swelling purple hills almost surrounding them, broken to the south-west by the silver harbor of the Piraeus, were quite sufficient to call up the most vivid sensations of delight. Their beauty, also, was enhanced by the picturesque people who idled about them — all was so artistic, so sunny, so admirably thrown together, that whichever way the eye was turned, it appeared to rest on the reality of some exquisite drop-scene.
Elgin marbles
Guardians are stationed where there is anything to knock off and carry away more portable than the Elgin marbles. The interior of the temple of Theseus is used as a museum; and the fragments arc of greater interest, oven to the most ordinary traveller, than such as he may elsewhere encounter. Here we made a luncheon from some singularly fine grapes and fresh figs, with bread, spread on part of a column, and then proceeded to the Acropolis, which Demetri had properly kept for the last visit. From hence the view was most superb, but it wanted the relief of green. Everything, for miles round, was baked up.
The channel of the Ilyssus was without water, and the barley which covers the undulating ground had all been cut, leaving only the naked hot reddish tracts of land rose festival tour. The guardians had a sort of habitation below the Propykea, and cultivated a few vegetables in small artificial gardens, the leaves of which looked quite refreshing. Amongst the masses of marble ruins which the Turks had tumbled down from the Parthenon, to make cannon-balls from, or grind up for mortar, several wild plants trailed and flourished. One of these bore a green fruit, which, being ripe, burst, into dust the instant it was touched, however gently, by the foot; and the guides appeared more anxious to call the attention of the visitors to this fact, than to the solemn glories of the Acropolis.
0 notes
Photo
Beards assumed a most venerable appearance
It was very hot, and the road was very dusty—indeed, the whole country about appeared parched up to the last degree of drought. We put up the windows, but the dust still got in, and, before long, our beards assumed a most venerable appearance. We stopped to bait at a little wine-shed, half-way on the road, where there was a well, and where one or two Albanians, lounging about under a rude trellis of grapes, made an effective “bit.” Here we had some iced lemonade, which appeared to be all the establishment afforded, with some lumps of Turkish sweetmeat; and then we dragged on again for another half-hour, in the heat and dust, until we were deposited at the door of the Hotel d’Qrient — a fine house, furnished in the English fashion, and formerly a palace, as the toutcr had informed us. Demetri now told us that he let horses, with English saddles, to travellers; and that, if wo wished to see all the “ lions,” we must hire some, otherwise there would not bo time to do so. So we had up some stumbling ponies from the town, for which we were to pay a dollar each; and then started to visit the wonders, and be back to dinner by five o’clock.
“ Athens in six hours” is rather quick work to be sure; however, after I had been taken the round of the usual sights, I should have been sorry to have remained there much longer. But the exceeding beauty of the ruins can scarcely be overpraised; albeit, the degree of enthusiasm, real or conventional, with which one regards them, must depend entirely upon such early classical training as the traveller may have been fortunate enough to have
undergone. Yet I doubt whether I could have gazed upon those of graceful remains with greater delight than I did on this occasion, had I gone through any further preparation to visit them, than had been afforded by an ordinary public school education. Apart from their histories and their associations — their lovely symmetry, the effect of their clean sandstone color against the bright blue sky, their admirable position, and the horizon of finely swelling purple hills almost surrounding them, broken to the south-west by the silver harbor of the Piraeus, were quite sufficient to call up the most vivid sensations of delight. Their beauty, also, was enhanced by the picturesque people who idled about them — all was so artistic, so sunny, so admirably thrown together, that whichever way the eye was turned, it appeared to rest on the reality of some exquisite drop-scene.
Elgin marbles
Guardians are stationed where there is anything to knock off and carry away more portable than the Elgin marbles. The interior of the temple of Theseus is used as a museum; and the fragments arc of greater interest, oven to the most ordinary traveller, than such as he may elsewhere encounter. Here we made a luncheon from some singularly fine grapes and fresh figs, with bread, spread on part of a column, and then proceeded to the Acropolis, which Demetri had properly kept for the last visit. From hence the view was most superb, but it wanted the relief of green. Everything, for miles round, was baked up.
The channel of the Ilyssus was without water, and the barley which covers the undulating ground had all been cut, leaving only the naked hot reddish tracts of land rose festival tour. The guardians had a sort of habitation below the Propykea, and cultivated a few vegetables in small artificial gardens, the leaves of which looked quite refreshing. Amongst the masses of marble ruins which the Turks had tumbled down from the Parthenon, to make cannon-balls from, or grind up for mortar, several wild plants trailed and flourished. One of these bore a green fruit, which, being ripe, burst, into dust the instant it was touched, however gently, by the foot; and the guides appeared more anxious to call the attention of the visitors to this fact, than to the solemn glories of the Acropolis.
0 notes
Photo
Beards assumed a most venerable appearance
It was very hot, and the road was very dusty—indeed, the whole country about appeared parched up to the last degree of drought. We put up the windows, but the dust still got in, and, before long, our beards assumed a most venerable appearance. We stopped to bait at a little wine-shed, half-way on the road, where there was a well, and where one or two Albanians, lounging about under a rude trellis of grapes, made an effective “bit.” Here we had some iced lemonade, which appeared to be all the establishment afforded, with some lumps of Turkish sweetmeat; and then we dragged on again for another half-hour, in the heat and dust, until we were deposited at the door of the Hotel d’Qrient — a fine house, furnished in the English fashion, and formerly a palace, as the toutcr had informed us. Demetri now told us that he let horses, with English saddles, to travellers; and that, if wo wished to see all the “ lions,” we must hire some, otherwise there would not bo time to do so. So we had up some stumbling ponies from the town, for which we were to pay a dollar each; and then started to visit the wonders, and be back to dinner by five o’clock.
“ Athens in six hours” is rather quick work to be sure; however, after I had been taken the round of the usual sights, I should have been sorry to have remained there much longer. But the exceeding beauty of the ruins can scarcely be overpraised; albeit, the degree of enthusiasm, real or conventional, with which one regards them, must depend entirely upon such early classical training as the traveller may have been fortunate enough to have
undergone. Yet I doubt whether I could have gazed upon those of graceful remains with greater delight than I did on this occasion, had I gone through any further preparation to visit them, than had been afforded by an ordinary public school education. Apart from their histories and their associations — their lovely symmetry, the effect of their clean sandstone color against the bright blue sky, their admirable position, and the horizon of finely swelling purple hills almost surrounding them, broken to the south-west by the silver harbor of the Piraeus, were quite sufficient to call up the most vivid sensations of delight. Their beauty, also, was enhanced by the picturesque people who idled about them — all was so artistic, so sunny, so admirably thrown together, that whichever way the eye was turned, it appeared to rest on the reality of some exquisite drop-scene.
Elgin marbles
Guardians are stationed where there is anything to knock off and carry away more portable than the Elgin marbles. The interior of the temple of Theseus is used as a museum; and the fragments arc of greater interest, oven to the most ordinary traveller, than such as he may elsewhere encounter. Here we made a luncheon from some singularly fine grapes and fresh figs, with bread, spread on part of a column, and then proceeded to the Acropolis, which Demetri had properly kept for the last visit. From hence the view was most superb, but it wanted the relief of green. Everything, for miles round, was baked up.
The channel of the Ilyssus was without water, and the barley which covers the undulating ground had all been cut, leaving only the naked hot reddish tracts of land rose festival tour. The guardians had a sort of habitation below the Propykea, and cultivated a few vegetables in small artificial gardens, the leaves of which looked quite refreshing. Amongst the masses of marble ruins which the Turks had tumbled down from the Parthenon, to make cannon-balls from, or grind up for mortar, several wild plants trailed and flourished. One of these bore a green fruit, which, being ripe, burst, into dust the instant it was touched, however gently, by the foot; and the guides appeared more anxious to call the attention of the visitors to this fact, than to the solemn glories of the Acropolis.
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Beards assumed a most venerable appearance
It was very hot, and the road was very dusty—indeed, the whole country about appeared parched up to the last degree of drought. We put up the windows, but the dust still got in, and, before long, our beards assumed a most venerable appearance. We stopped to bait at a little wine-shed, half-way on the road, where there was a well, and where one or two Albanians, lounging about under a rude trellis of grapes, made an effective “bit.” Here we had some iced lemonade, which appeared to be all the establishment afforded, with some lumps of Turkish sweetmeat; and then we dragged on again for another half-hour, in the heat and dust, until we were deposited at the door of the Hotel d’Qrient — a fine house, furnished in the English fashion, and formerly a palace, as the toutcr had informed us. Demetri now told us that he let horses, with English saddles, to travellers; and that, if wo wished to see all the “ lions,” we must hire some, otherwise there would not bo time to do so. So we had up some stumbling ponies from the town, for which we were to pay a dollar each; and then started to visit the wonders, and be back to dinner by five o’clock.
“ Athens in six hours” is rather quick work to be sure; however, after I had been taken the round of the usual sights, I should have been sorry to have remained there much longer. But the exceeding beauty of the ruins can scarcely be overpraised; albeit, the degree of enthusiasm, real or conventional, with which one regards them, must depend entirely upon such early classical training as the traveller may have been fortunate enough to have
undergone. Yet I doubt whether I could have gazed upon those of graceful remains with greater delight than I did on this occasion, had I gone through any further preparation to visit them, than had been afforded by an ordinary public school education. Apart from their histories and their associations — their lovely symmetry, the effect of their clean sandstone color against the bright blue sky, their admirable position, and the horizon of finely swelling purple hills almost surrounding them, broken to the south-west by the silver harbor of the Piraeus, were quite sufficient to call up the most vivid sensations of delight. Their beauty, also, was enhanced by the picturesque people who idled about them — all was so artistic, so sunny, so admirably thrown together, that whichever way the eye was turned, it appeared to rest on the reality of some exquisite drop-scene.
Elgin marbles
Guardians are stationed where there is anything to knock off and carry away more portable than the Elgin marbles. The interior of the temple of Theseus is used as a museum; and the fragments arc of greater interest, oven to the most ordinary traveller, than such as he may elsewhere encounter. Here we made a luncheon from some singularly fine grapes and fresh figs, with bread, spread on part of a column, and then proceeded to the Acropolis, which Demetri had properly kept for the last visit. From hence the view was most superb, but it wanted the relief of green. Everything, for miles round, was baked up.
The channel of the Ilyssus was without water, and the barley which covers the undulating ground had all been cut, leaving only the naked hot reddish tracts of land rose festival tour. The guardians had a sort of habitation below the Propykea, and cultivated a few vegetables in small artificial gardens, the leaves of which looked quite refreshing. Amongst the masses of marble ruins which the Turks had tumbled down from the Parthenon, to make cannon-balls from, or grind up for mortar, several wild plants trailed and flourished. One of these bore a green fruit, which, being ripe, burst, into dust the instant it was touched, however gently, by the foot; and the guides appeared more anxious to call the attention of the visitors to this fact, than to the solemn glories of the Acropolis.
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Beards assumed a most venerable appearance
It was very hot, and the road was very dusty—indeed, the whole country about appeared parched up to the last degree of drought. We put up the windows, but the dust still got in, and, before long, our beards assumed a most venerable appearance. We stopped to bait at a little wine-shed, half-way on the road, where there was a well, and where one or two Albanians, lounging about under a rude trellis of grapes, made an effective “bit.” Here we had some iced lemonade, which appeared to be all the establishment afforded, with some lumps of Turkish sweetmeat; and then we dragged on again for another half-hour, in the heat and dust, until we were deposited at the door of the Hotel d’Qrient — a fine house, furnished in the English fashion, and formerly a palace, as the toutcr had informed us. Demetri now told us that he let horses, with English saddles, to travellers; and that, if wo wished to see all the “ lions,” we must hire some, otherwise there would not bo time to do so. So we had up some stumbling ponies from the town, for which we were to pay a dollar each; and then started to visit the wonders, and be back to dinner by five o’clock.
“ Athens in six hours” is rather quick work to be sure; however, after I had been taken the round of the usual sights, I should have been sorry to have remained there much longer. But the exceeding beauty of the ruins can scarcely be overpraised; albeit, the degree of enthusiasm, real or conventional, with which one regards them, must depend entirely upon such early classical training as the traveller may have been fortunate enough to have
undergone. Yet I doubt whether I could have gazed upon those of graceful remains with greater delight than I did on this occasion, had I gone through any further preparation to visit them, than had been afforded by an ordinary public school education. Apart from their histories and their associations — their lovely symmetry, the effect of their clean sandstone color against the bright blue sky, their admirable position, and the horizon of finely swelling purple hills almost surrounding them, broken to the south-west by the silver harbor of the Piraeus, were quite sufficient to call up the most vivid sensations of delight. Their beauty, also, was enhanced by the picturesque people who idled about them — all was so artistic, so sunny, so admirably thrown together, that whichever way the eye was turned, it appeared to rest on the reality of some exquisite drop-scene.
Elgin marbles
Guardians are stationed where there is anything to knock off and carry away more portable than the Elgin marbles. The interior of the temple of Theseus is used as a museum; and the fragments arc of greater interest, oven to the most ordinary traveller, than such as he may elsewhere encounter. Here we made a luncheon from some singularly fine grapes and fresh figs, with bread, spread on part of a column, and then proceeded to the Acropolis, which Demetri had properly kept for the last visit. From hence the view was most superb, but it wanted the relief of green. Everything, for miles round, was baked up.
The channel of the Ilyssus was without water, and the barley which covers the undulating ground had all been cut, leaving only the naked hot reddish tracts of land rose festival tour. The guardians had a sort of habitation below the Propykea, and cultivated a few vegetables in small artificial gardens, the leaves of which looked quite refreshing. Amongst the masses of marble ruins which the Turks had tumbled down from the Parthenon, to make cannon-balls from, or grind up for mortar, several wild plants trailed and flourished. One of these bore a green fruit, which, being ripe, burst, into dust the instant it was touched, however gently, by the foot; and the guides appeared more anxious to call the attention of the visitors to this fact, than to the solemn glories of the Acropolis.
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