#swansongsRJdM

[obeyfeline]

I wrote another thread on twitter (linked) about the semiotics of this Sem image of Evander Berry Wall at Charvet… with his dog.

#swansongsrjdm #steez #elegant #menswear #haberdasher #paris style #made in france #bespoke #charvet

[obeyfeline]

A favorite tie by Sulka, a version in blue of the one I had seen many years ago in the auction of the effects of Prince Rupert Loewenstein:

#swansongsrjdm #steez #elegant #menswear #sulka #haberdasher #paris style #made in france #A. Sulka & Company #Sulka Paris

[obeyfeline]

Old England Paris vintage

My public service of vintage found around the internet -- as always, I have no commercial connection to these sales unless I say otherwise. My book about all this and much more about classic Paris custom menswear is available at the link in my bio though.

1990s ad for the defunct suitmaker Chester Barrie at Old England Paris. Chester Barrie used to be the best maker of British ready-to-wear suits. The name got separated from the factory, which ended up being owned by Lutwyche before liquidation during the pandemic. 

Here, an actual authentic Harris Tweed sportcoat made by Chester Barrie for Old England, at: https://www.ebay.com/itm/354650469783

Old England shirts, made in Ireland (possibly at the defunct Glenaden) and England, at https://www.ebay.com/itm/195701436900 and https://www.ebay.com/itm/195701445063

Hats by Christy’s for Old England, at https://www.ebay.com/itm/173790555639 and https://www.ebay.com/itm/183682389394

and a tie made for Old England by Charles Hill, which had been the tiemaking division of Turnbull & Asser: https://www.ebay.com/itm/224320681110

#swansongsrjdm #Old England #Old England Paris #made in England #handmade in England #Chester Barrie #Cheshire Bespoke #Lutwyche #paris menswear #elegant #menswear #Harris Tweed #made in Ireland #Christy's #Christy's London #Christy's hats #Charles Hill #Charles Hill silks #Old England Club Collection

[obeyfeline]

My second pair of #AnthonyDelos shoes, 16 years on. My book about him, #Berluti, #Arnys, #Charvet and more is available through the link in my bio or at Chato Lufsen in signed form. #swansongsrjdm #anthonydelosbottier #bespoke #grandemesure #frenchbespoke #madeinfrance #handmadeinfrance #bespokeshoemaker #customshoemaker #customshoes #ArnysParis #frenchstyle https://www.instagram.com/p/Cq-jHG8r7wn/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

#anthonydelos #berluti #arnys #charvet #swansongsrjdm #anthonydelosbottier #bespoke #grandemesure #frenchbespoke #madeinfrance #handmadeinfrance #bespokeshoemaker #customshoemaker #customshoes #arnysparis #frenchstyle

[obeyfeline]

Vintage Charvet scarf

An unusual pattern that’s more detailed than Charvet silk scarves usually are with a medieval (?) Indian motif.

#swansongsrjdm #Charvet #made in France #maison Charvet

[obeyfeline]

Hunting leopards medieval tapestry print silk handkerchief from @stephen_linard95 , from what he calls the lost golden age of #Drakes, when there was shared inspiration with Hilditch & Key Paris, whose cashmere-silk print scarf this lies on. For more, my book Swan Songs: Souvenirs of Paris Elegance is available through the link in my bio or at Chato Lufsen in Paris. #swansongsrjdm #hilditchetkey #hilditchandkeyparis #elegant #menswear #steez #parisfashion #parisfashionbook #menswearbook https://www.instagram.com/p/Cq78ZUlLl8U/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

#drakes #swansongsrjdm #hilditchetkey #hilditchandkeyparis #elegant #menswear #steez #parisfashion #parisfashionbook #menswearbook

[obeyfeline]

Delos #4 Swan Songs: Souvenirs of Paris Elegance is available at the link in my bio. #swansongsrjdm #anthonydelos #anthonydelosbottier #bespoke #grandemesure #surmesure #bottiersurmesure #customshoes #bottier #madeinfrance #handmadeinfrance #elegant https://www.instagram.com/p/Cq3J6RALyCH/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

#4 #swansongsrjdm #anthonydelos #anthonydelosbottier #bespoke #grandemesure #surmesure #bottiersurmesure #customshoes #bottier #madeinfrance #handmadeinfrance #elegant

[obeyfeline]

Max Evzeline

Paris tailor, member of the iconoclastic Groupe des Cinq, artist who had an art gallery. I write about him and the other custom tailors and shirtmakers of Paris in my book, Swan Songs: Souvenirs of Paris Elegance, available through the link in my bio. Here, some vintage sportcoats of his that came up for sale. His son Raymond closed down his shop in the 2010s following a multi-million dollar settlement of account by a world leader.

Groupe des Cinq lapel notch and milanaise-style detailed buttonhole.

The extra “secret” pocket in the lining that the Groupe des Cinq tailors made a fetish.

#Evzeline #Max Evzeline #Groupe des cinq #bespoke #Paris tailor #swansongsrjdm #grande mesure #menswear #elegant #steez #made in Paris #made in France #handmade in France

[obeyfeline]

1901 ad for Charvet’s laundry

“anyone can visit!” 

at https://www.ebay.com/itm/203487622424?hash=item2f60ceb518:g:GQEAAOSw-0xgv5oo&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAABIOU%2FMFmLe0w%2Fc3HucczXZ23sdKSDz3xoVEBc5HaiP3SDPZDOW1L9BGYVbZWHB18bVdeBMbkwNMONC1g%2BzDMbmec4aGVq58V78bOoaJNTSYDdxufPS3RT3fpE22DBgAT1gK2B8QRaXKslXIvzxBUuOghjLghFlZ8GmP%2FgFk8NlJhM9OE4IB1DNNqohx2UpmicNX%2B%2B07eSq1PkUP4xVML1z4O%2Ba9dpVH7f7dL83vUQWsrfPoHvPGR4wTc35xNJaffBbbCi3uhBr5oYPZReJPEeY4oPSS5Hf9FhX3jjKJiImMEHheht1ifHd%2FWMswvWZIRqrimRAx5ZLvxa0DQKyriGD3n2l5nShOhsyZLBuDV0hP72s7aUiR0nKaPM324GEVMckw%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR_yX8bjWYQ

#Charvet #swansongsrjdm #paris style

[obeyfeline]

Gift ideas inspired by my book

Namiki maki-e and raden Two Carps pipe for Dunhill. At https://www.alpascia.com/en/product/39028/dunhill-namiki-two-carps-limit

15 rue de la Paix was the first Dunhill boutique to sell the unique Namiki decorated items. It is no more. Read more in my book, for far less than this pipe.

#swansongsrjdm #Namiki #Dunheel #15rdlp #15 rue de la paix #maki-e #elegant #gift ideas

[obeyfeline]

More gift ideas or silly little treats

Hand-stitched men’s silk-lined gloves by Lesdiguieres-Barnier, now the only remaining quality glovemaker in France using real kidskin, at https://ganterie-grenoble.fr/?product=gant-homme-classique-en-peau-de-chevreau-double-soie-cousu-main-noir

I get no benefit from posting these, just doing so to spread the steez. But if you like this stuff, check out my book Swan Songs: Souvenirs of Paris Elegance, linked in my bio.

#swansongsrjdm #chevreau #gantier #Lesdiguieres-Barnier #Jean Strazzeri #MOF #gift ideas #made in france

[obeyfeline]

Interview with me up at Les Indispensables

A rare shoot (including these Anthony Delos custom boots) and interview with me is now up in both English and French at Les Indispensables Paris, at

https://www.lesindispensablesparis.com/fashion/interview-obeyfeline

and in French at

https://www.lesindispensablesparis.com/mode/interview-obeyfeline

And for more, my book - the only one of its kind about Paris menswear and elegance, is available at the link in my bio.

#swansongsrjdm #Reginald-Jerome de Mans #steez #menswear #elegant #Swan Songs: Souvenirs of Paris Elegance #Arnys #Hilditch & Key Paris #Hilditch et Key #Hermes #Anthony Delos #custom #bespoke #bottier #grande mesure #made in France #Paris fashion #men's style book

[obeyfeline]

vintage Sulka roundup

A roundup of vintage finds on the internet of stuff from Sulka and other places I write about in my book Swan Songs: Souvenirs of Paris Elegance, available through the link in my bio. 

Vintage vicuna from the pre-ban era

Crewneck and funnel-neck

A more normal cashmere sweater in a barleycorn knit with contrast collar and cuffs:

Enamel jockey hat cufflinks

Precious fripperies. I’ve posted pics of enameled Sulka ladybug or shamrock cufflinks before.

Belted cashmere overshirt with epaulettes. If this had been my size I would have been all over it.

1960s-1970s crazy pattern shirt. More interesting than what they ended up selling in the 1990s, or what is now being sold under the Sulka label on Mr Porter.

Jacquard-woven Sea Island cotton pajamas.

A 1970s-early 1980s polo shirt by Schiatti:

Ties and scarves:

all with the stupid diamond-tipped reinforcing stitch:

Incredible tasseling and monogramming:

The irregular spot pattern was a Sulka specialty:

Raoul Dufy for Charvet silk scarf:

Chavet crocogator belt:

Dunhill Tradition boxed alligator flask set. Handmade in Walthamstow England, in vanishingly small numbers.

#swansongsrjdm #Sulka #A Sulka & Company #Sulka Paris #Sulka New York #A. Sulka & Company #Charvet #Raoul Dufy #Dunhill Tradition #dunheel #menswear #STEEZ #vintage #elegant #Murray Allan #made in Scotland #cashmere made in Scotland #Sea Island cotton #made in England #made in Italy #Schiatti #Sulka Chicago

[obeyfeline]

Gift ideas continued

Original Knieschwimmer armchair, the same kind used by Adolf Loos in Villa Mueller and in Knize Paris, at https://www.ebay.com/itm/175432089992

Villa Mueller:

Knize Paris (chair at far left):

A much cheaper reproduction is available here: https://www.modernista-eshop.com/furniture/couch

#swansongsrjdm #Knize #Knize Paris #Knieschwimmer #Paris style #Adolf Loos #gift ideas

[obeyfeline]

Today’s gift idea

Properly sized socks in cotton, wool or cashmere, some of the best I have tried, from Crimson in Paris at https://crimson-cashmere.com/collections/men-socks

#swansongsrjdm #Crimson #Crimson Paris #Crimson Cashmere #Crimson rue Marbeuf #sized socks

[obeyfeline]

not making the cut, this early 1980s perfectly cut #Sulka cashmere check sport coat made by the now closed #CheshireBespoke, the hand tailoring English manufacturer once known as #ChesterBarrje before investors sold off the name. Can I travel with just one sportcoat? Buy my book through the link in my bio and find out: Swan Songs: Souvenirs of Paris Elegance, the most detailed and honest history of #ASulkaandCompany, #Charvet, and many others. And come to my signing on October 20 at Chato Vintage, 18h-19h, 41 rue de Verneuil (curry at Ravi not included). #swansongsrjdm #madeinengland #handtailoredinengland #steez #parisfashionbook #frenchstylebook #parismenswear #arnys #arnysparis https://www.instagram.com/p/CjgX_ifpMJT/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

#sulka #cheshirebespoke #chesterbarrje #asulkaandcompany #charvet #swansongsrjdm #madeinengland #handtailoredinengland #steez #parisfashionbook #frenchstylebook #parismenswear #arnys #arnysparis