#v9266

[littleglitterbab]

Let me take you on a journey. a dumb one.

Okay so I fell down the dumbest research rabbit hole, and I need someone to come with me.

So I've been getting more into sewing, and last week I was scrolling through Vogue Patterns website and I saw this pattern:

My brain upon seeing this awfully familiar outfit:

Join me on the dumb research journey I went on this week.

Before I start, I’d like it on the record that I 10000% do not support the orange teratoma or anyone associated with him. I just was really fascinated by this specific topic for and then fell down a rabbit hole of research. January 2016, the orange Cheeto was inaugurated and the less said about that the better- the only thing I’d like to note about the whole affair is that during the inauguration Melania Trump was wearing a rather stylish blue coat and dress combo, which was a custom Ralph Lauren outfit. Custom meaning it was created specifically for Melania, for this event. There was a whole lot of hullabaloo about who was going to dress Melania for the event, with many designers outright refusing (bless them). Ralph Lauren explained why he agreed to dress Melania, but honestly I don’t give a shit.

A year and a half later, Vogue Patterns released a pattern (V9266) in their fall collection that looks identical to the blue coat and jacket, down to the dart placement on the dress. It was even made in the same colour for the pattern photo. The lookbook for the 2017 fall collection was released in July 2017. Vogue Patterns is owned by the McCall Pattern Company, as of 2001.

Fashion, especially fast fashion, has a history of copycat fashion, due to the way American copyright laws are structured, but this whole thing got me thinking- what kind of history is there of this outside of the fast fashion world? Was this common prior to the rise of fast fashion? What about patterns? Is the pattern of the Ralph Lauren dress being published by Vogue a common occurrence, or is this just an unusual case? Did Ralph Lauren tell Vogue, go ahead publish my dress, or did Vogue just say fuck it and blatantly copy him? Tell me the truth, Vogue Patterns, I need to know!!

Buckle up y’all, it’s time for a very cursory history lesson on counterfeit fashion.

Jewelry counterfeiting can be traced back to the 1800s, and probably later, with sly counterfeiters passing off “paste” jewels (paste meaning made of a type of glass) as the real things. However, you can see the intrinsic value of precious and semi-precious stones, but the value of a design of clothing seems less evident. Obviously people have wanted to dress like rich/famous people since the dawn of time, but when did copying specific designers come about?

In the 1860s, Charles Worth began signing his labels on his dresses, arguably making this the first “designer label”. Worth’s garments were highly sought after and were also exceptionally expensive. So, people started to copy his work. Just the act of labeling his clothing made it easier to forge his work, since just the label itself could make you think the garment was from the house of Worth even if it didn’t look like any of his designs.

Jumping ahead a century, in the 1900s, employees of Bergdorf Goodman would travel each year to Paris to purchase samples of garments from designers to take back to New York so that they could reproduce them and sell them to customers. While this wasn’t a case of counterfeiting patterns, perhaps this is one of the branches that leads to it? It’s easy to imagine an employee sneaking out a pattern or sample to make copies independently of the licenced retailers at Bergdorf Goodman.

In that vein, Elizabeth Hawke, an American fashion designer, was employed at one point as a “covert sketcher” by a dressmaker known for making high-quality, illegal knockoffs of designer clothing in the early 1900s. (Someone make me a blockbuster movie about this woman please)

In the 1940s-1950s Christian Dior’s New Look was so incredibly popular and in demand that many counterfeits popped up across the globe- including ones made by American fashion designer Nettie Rosenstein. Interestingly enough, she modified Dior’s silhouette to make it more accessible to the average person, notably by reducing the yardage in one dress from 15 yards to 7 yards.

During this era, department store employees that attended Dior’s couture shows had to pay an entry fee, which also went towards the purchase of a sample as well as the license to copy it.

Decades later, the process of copying designs is a lot simpler and (tragically) doesn’t involve employing covert sketchers. Rather than needing to get a hold of the actual garments, fast fashion manufacturers have instant access to the latest collections once they’re published online. This means that the timeline from original on the runway to counterfeit in the mall can be as short as two weeks.

All of this is really interesting, and the copyright laws surrounding sewing patterns and designers are super whack, but this doesn’t answer my ultimate question of WHY DOES VOGUE PATTERN 9266 EXIST?!

The Melania Trump outfit isn’t the only occasion where pattern companies have released patterns for well known outfits. Simplicity and McCalls have both released many look-a-like patterns for costumes worn on Game of Thrones, The Addams Family, The Hobbit, and Mirror Mirror (you know… that Julia Roberts movie from 2012?? me neither).

Due to my own lack of knowledge on couture fashion, I wasn’t able to locate any other cases of designer looks being reproduced by pattern companies. So, like, they might exist? But as I am a fashion newb, I was unable to find any further examples.

What I did find is that some designers have collaborated with Vogue Patterns to release licensed sewing patterns. For example, Vogue released 11 patterns by Alexander McQueen for Givenchy between 1998 and 2002.

More importantly, I discovered that Ralph Lauren had done the same thing with Vogue Patterns in the past as well! I found photos of patterns from the 1970s to the 1990s. However, something to note about these patterns is that they were all very clearly labeled “Ralph Lauren” in all capital letters, which Vogue Pattern 9266 lacks.

So, conclusion? Tl;DR? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Vogue Patterns and Ralph Lauren have a history of collaboration, but V9266 doesn’t have the same labeling. Also, if Ralph Lauren had decided to give Vogue Patterns his pattern to license and distribute, why would it take a year and a half? Couldn’t he just like email them his notes or whatever? Conclusion: I have no fucking clue you guys. Someone with an actual background in this field needs to take over for me.

In conclusion, I think the blue dress/coat combo is really stylish and I’m super annoyed that it was worn by someone I want absolutely no association with because otherwise I’d be 100% down for making my own. Morals : 1 Fashion : 0

Sources:

http://www.sewcratic.com/learn/sewipedia/pattern-companies/vogue-pattern-company

https://mccall.com/v9266

https://www.today.com/style/melania-trump-s-inauguration-day-dress-designed-ralph-lauren-t107230

https://heavy.com/news/2017/01/melania-trump-blue-dress-coat-inauguration-inaugural-designer-ralph-lauren-style-photos-jackie-jacqueline-kennedy-who-designed-made-cost/

https://www.edelweisspatterns.com/blog/?p=6005

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PTWWdLX1rAg

https://issuu.com/mccallpatterncompany/docs/vogue_patterns_fall_2017_lookbook

https://www.vox.com/2018/4/27/17281022/fashion-brands-knockoffs-copyright-stolen-designs-old-navy-zara-h-and-m

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elizabeth_Hawes#Fashion_career_in_Paris_(1925%E2%80%931928)

https://www.thecut.com/2014/11/new-fashion-exhibit-thats-all-about-knockoffs.html

https://blog.pattern-vault.com/cosplay-costuming/

https://blog.pattern-vault.com/alexander-mcqueen-series/

https://blog.pattern-vault.com/2018/09/07/ralph-lauren-50-years/

#fashion #fashion history #vogue patterns #v9266 #ralph lauren

[professorpski]

A Step-Up for the Funnel Neck, Vogue 9266

The new fall patterns are out and some of them can be worn for both office work and formal occasions and still keep you warm. While I usually steer clear of most funnel necks because they are often strictly two-dimensional with no attempt to acknowledge that the neck is a tube, this one is shaped by long darts front and back. The rest of the body of the dress is fitted as well with darts. The dress has set-in sleeves at ¾ length, and then the little bolero jacket has raglan sleeves at a wee big longer. I can easily imagine this little jacket made to harmonize with other dresses, so long as they have a plain bodice.

They show this one in a pale blue which seems best on a special occasion, but you wan imagine it in a more autumnal or sober color for regular day wear. They  recommend mid-weight woolens, and I am thinking a flannel would do nicely. They also recommend crepe but unless it is one of the heavier and pricier versions, it would probably not have enough body for the jacket. Or you would have to interface it heavily. That can be done, but it takes a bit more time.

You can find it here: https://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v9266

#vogue patterns #sewing #sewing patterns #sewing pattern #dressmaking #tailoring #womens suits #women's fashion #women's suits

[doctortdesigns]

The fall releases for Vogue Patterns are here!  It definitely seems like a transitional season for trends, as there are much subdued silhouettes for sleeves, a lack of ruffles, and a trend towards sleeker, straighter, and bolder lines.  While I’m happy to have options that aren’t drowning in ruffles, I have to say that there aren’t a ton of styles I’m loving here for myself.  I am, however, really excited to see what some of the more prolific sewing bloggers produce, as I think there are some really iconic and stand-out styles in this release.  Let’s take a look:

V1559 – Guy Laroche.  I love the juxtaposition of the classic fitted sheath dress with the casual denim shirtdress vibe.  This is one I’m really torn about from a personal perspective though.  There are a lot of things I really like about this dress, but I don’t know if I could see myself wearing it.  I’m not sure it needs to join my pattern stash, but I do love the design, and I’m really excited to see other bloggers make their own versions.

V1561 – Zandra Rhodes.  Swing coats are another style that I’m not overly excited by, but I do love the curved lines around the yoke area.  Very pretty.

V1562 – Lialia by Julia Alarcon.  This jacket has a lot of great classic detail included in the design.  Also love the vaguely 1920’s silhouette.  Once again, it is a pattern I really like, but I’m not sure it is the best for me – I feel like I have many similar/better options already, but I do think it would be an amazing tailoring project for someone who would look great in these straighter lines.

V1563 – Rachel Comey.  Another jacket pattern with lots of detail.  The color blocking looks great, and I love how the classic silhouette blends with the more modern use of fabrics, and the extremely fitted cuffs should make this a really warm jacket to wear (with a scarf and turtleneck anyway).

V1558 – Rachel Comey.  Love this dress!  Simple lines and soft pleating detail would look fabulous in a solid or a print fabric.  This is at the top of my “must buy” list from this release.

V1556 – Rachel Comey.  I also find this to be a really interesting design.  By all accounts the wide belt/obi look was super popular on fall runways, so I expect this will fall squarely in the “on trend” category.  Another look I’m personally conflicted by – I love all the interesting detail, but I really don’t see myself wearing it.

V1555 – Tom and Linda Platt.  I’m always a sucker for a good color block, and I particularly like that the lines are echoed on the front and back of this dress.

V1553 – Koos van den Akker.  Very cute with lots of trim details.  Another look that will be a pass for me, but could definitely look very cute on the right person.

V1554 – Isaac Mizrahi.  It’s a pretty simple pleated dress, but I like it.  The insertion of sheer lace into the hem design is quite an interesting idea as well.  Simple, but I like it.  I can’t help but imagine this dress paired with a cropped moto jacket, though in a different fabrication it would be perfect for a spring wedding.  I love how fabric choice and styling make this design incredibly versatile.

V1560 – Anne Klein.  Very classic trouser with boxy jacket.

V1564 – Today’s Fit by Sandra Betzina.  I like this – the hood looks like a really interesting design, as it is part of the front of the coat, not a separate seam.  It looks really cozy for a rainy day, and simple lines make it easy to sew on technical waterproof fabrics.

V1552 – Today’s Fit by Sandra Betzina.  Personally I’m not one who likes to add volume to the hips, but the model photo is a bit more flattering than I’d expect based on the line drawing.  Fabric drape is going to be critical to sewing this pattern successfully.

V9264 – Very Easy Vogue.  Crushed velvet, drab florals, and puffy sleeves.  It really does make me think of a skating dress from the late 1980s.  I may have previously made myself clear about how unexcited I am by these trends, but I’ll reiterate here.  Not excited.  I will say, however, that Vogue did make the maxi floral gown come close to looking elegant.  Still not on my wishlist, but I am somewhat impressed.

V9265 – Very Easy Vogue/Custom Fit.  One of the few fall designs that continues the voluminous sleeve trend.  I’m a bit more excited by this than the previous style, but it is a fairly basic princess seam bodice and skirt combo.

V9267 – Vogue Easy Options/Custom Fit.  I know this is very similar to many previous Vogue Easy Options styles, but I really like it!  The custom cup sizing is a great selling point, especially on a bodice with so many darts and seams.

V9266 – Very Easy Vogue.  I was wondering when the copycat patterns would start to arrive.  On the one hand I do like this design.  On the other hand, I have no desire to be visually associated with the administration that this represents.  Pass.

V9269 – Julio Cesar NYC.  Cute shirt dress, though perhaps a bit short for me.  Nice way to mix prints and solids to create a top/skirt look.

V9271 – Julio Cesar NYC.  Looks like some interesting detailing on this top, though I’m never one to go for such a boxy silhouette.

V9275 – Vogue Wardrobe.  I find the styling a bit odd, but this has some nice casual pieces.  Definitely not something I would think of as being work appropriate, though Vogue seems to have styled it that way?

V9268 – Kathryn Brenne.  I wanted to dismiss this immediately as being boring, but the more I look at this dress, the more I’m intrigued by the softly draping skirt.  Similar to the Today’s Fit style, but a bit more wearable perhaps?  It looks like a bit of a fabric hog, but should be pretty simple to sew together.  Perhaps this one will make it onto my sale day shopping list?

V9272 – Marcy Tilton.  I think this is a great addition to the Marcy Tilton line – it definitely fits her aesthetic, but I think this is a top that will appeal to those who don’t typically buy her patterns.  Looks like a fun, comfortable top for fall.

V9273 – Very Easy Vogue.  I’ve been thinking about making a vest, though these styles seem a bit too square and masculine for my personal taste.  Looks like the boxy 80s tailoring is making a comeback.

V9270 – Very Easy Vogue.  Another style that has a slight nod to the excessive sleeves of the spring and summer months, though much toned down for fall.

V9274 – Very Easy Vogue.  The asymmetric coat is pretty interesting.  Not much to say about the elastic waist pants.

V9276 – Tafa Vogue Accessories.  Cute options for fancy gown cover-ups.

And that’s it!  On the whole I’m seeing trends towards boxier styles and more masculine tailoring and silhouettes, almost as a rebuttal to the overly flowy and ruffly looks of the summer.  My favorite looks are actually some of the simplest pieces, without any of the heavy 80s influence.  Though this may have something to do with the obsessive reading research I have been doing on style types (more on this in an upcoming post) and thinking I’ve been doing about how this will impact my wardrobe planning.  Regardless, I think this is a strong release from Vogue.  I don’t find that there are a lot of things I want to make and wear, but I do think that there are quite a few strong looks from this collection that I could see certain sewing bloggers going nuts over.  What do you all think?  See anything here that you can’t wait to add to your fall wardrobe?  Or are the looks in this release too 80s for you to get excited about?  Feel free to discuss in the comments!

Vogue Patterns Fall 2017 #sewing #patterns #Vogue #VoguePatterns The fall releases for Vogue Patterns are here!  It definitely seems like a transitional season for trends, as there are much subdued silhouettes for sleeves, a lack of ruffles, and a trend towards sleeker, straighter, and bolder lines.  

#pattern #sewing #Vogue

[doctortdesigns]

The latest collection from Vogue is here!  I’m sure the collective ooohs and aaahs of the blog-o-sphere have already been heard internet wide, but I was a bit distracted finishing my sudoku entries to pay much mind.  But now that I’ve got a bit of breather room, I think it’s time to throw my assessment into the ring.  Let’s take a look:

V1545 – Rebecca Vallance.  Love this!  It gives the illusion of being very open, yet it looks very covered.  It is certainly more daring of a V-neck plunge than I’ve ever worn, but I’m desperately tempted to try it.

V1546 – Rebecca Vallance.  I really love the look of this dress on the model, though I’m not convinced I need this pattern.  There is another style with a similar neckline in this release that I’m a bit more interested in, though I do think this is a lovely dress for summer.

V1544 – Tom and Linda Platt.  Ok, so this is the sort of dress I intellectually appreciate but would not really want to make for myself.  It is the sort of dress that would look stunning on Audrey Hepburn or Jackie Kennedy, but not so much on me.  It has just enough shaping to avoid the too boxy look.  I think it is beautiful in its simplicity, but not my personal style.

V1548 – Guy Laroche.  I’m normally a huge fan of the Guy Laroche patterns, but this one isn’t really doing it for me.  Lots of interesting details, and I’m sure it would be really interesting to sew, but style-wise I’m not too excited.

V1543 – Anne Klein.  What is it about the pleated front dresses that get me every time?  The model photo excited me not at all, but the line drawing has captured my imagination and now I think I may have to add this pattern to my stash.

V1547 – Zandra Rhodes.  Looks like a pretty simple style to sew, but also very on trend.

V1551 – Zandra Rhodes.  Similar hemline situation as above.  The line drawing looks a bit nuts, but the garment photo in the sheer chiffon actually has a rather lovely effect.

V1550 – Paco Peralta.  This pattern also seems to be very on trend.  Once again, the overly voluminous tops are not really my style, but I do like the shape of the trouser.

V1542 – Patricia Keay.  I like this.  It’s a bit hard to see what all the decorations are at the top of the dress, and I might leave it off if I were to make it myself, but, I like it.

V1542 – Today’s Fit by Sandra Betzina.  The Today’s Fit patterns are never really something I’m overly excited by, and this is no different.  The dress/tunic is fine, but not something that makes me really excited to sew.

V1549 – Today’s Fit by Sandra Betzina.  I could see this being an interesting lightweight summer jacket, though, again, I’m not sure how much it meshes with my style.

V9254 – Marcy Tilton.  I actually rather like this.  The slight asymmetry to the neckline and hem add some visual interest,  Not sure what is happening in the back of the line drawing��� I’d love to see someone make this up!

V9250 – Claire Schaeffer.  The instructions for the Claire Schaeffer patterns are renowned, so I wouldn’t be surprised if the instructions are superb.  Not sure this is my favorite jacket pattern in this style, but it is nice to see the slight princess seaming and two-piece sleeves in this Vogue pattern.

V9252 – Very Easy Vogue with Custom Fit.  I think this is the pattern I’ll pick up over the 1546 above.  It has a similar neckline, but a bit more coverage on the back.  And it has pockets!

V9251 – Very Easy Vogue.  Dress is cute, and definitely on trend with the ruffle sleeves.  I’ve got patterns for similar wrap dress styles, so I don’t need it, but I think this could be a very popular pattern.

V9253 – Very Easy Vogue.  That V front is so deep!  I’d definitely invest in some toupee tape if I wanted to try this pattern…

V9259 – Very Easy Vogue.  How many jumpsuit patterns can I fall for this spring?  Apparently all of them.  I’ve already got fabric to make the recent McCall’s release, but I really want to make this one too!  In all the versions!  It’s a problem.

V9257 – Very Easy Vogue.  This might be the most on-trend pattern in the release.  These ruffle tops are EVERYWHERE.  I’m not overly obsessed with the ruffle look myself, though I keep looking at those trousers.  And I keep trying to convince myself I don’t need them.  And I keep failing.

V9260 – Very Easy Vogue.  I actually really like the top part of this romper, but I’m not in love with the shape of the pants.  I may need to frankenpattern this a bit, because I do think it would be interesting to sew that top.

V9255 – Vintage Vogue.  Personally, I’ve got no interest in sewing or wearing vintage bathing suits, but I can definitely see this being popular among the vintage pattern loving crowd.

V9256 – Kathryn Brenne.  These tops are all a bit boxy for my taste, but the use of asymmetrical design details keeps them from being totally boring.

V9258 – Very Easy Vogue.  Nothing too exciting here, though I could see these being comfortable to wear during the summer months.

V9266 – Ron Collins.  Love!  So many yummy details on this man’s blazer.

V9263 – Kathryn Brenne.  These are some really nice bag options.  The quilting makes them look super classy.

V9261 – Malia Janveaux.  The leggings are pretty cute.  The dress… sort of looks like a marshmallow.

And that’s it!  On the whole I think this is a really strong release from Vogue.  I’m really liking quite a few of the designer dresses, even if I know I wouldn’t wear or buy them all.  And, I don’t know how or why it happened, but I’ve been converted from a jumpsuit hater to someone who wants to sew all the jumpsuits.  Why?  When?  How?  I’m still trying to figure that one out.  Certainly there are a few boxy patterns that don’t spark much interest, but, on the whole, I think Vogue has done a great job of balancing the recent trends with styles that are wearable and fashionable.  The more I look at this collection, the more I find to love.  Without a doubt I’ll be adding a few of these to the pattern stash at the next major pattern sale.  What do you all think?  Are you swooning over the Vogues as much as I am?  Or does this collection have too many ruffles, deep v-neck, and boxy tops to encourage much interest?  Feel free to discuss in the comments!

Summer 2017 Vogue Patterns #sewing #voguepatterns #Vogue #patternlove The latest collection from Vogue is here!  I'm sure the collective ooohs and aaahs of the blog-o-sphere have already been heard internet wide, but I was a bit distracted finishing my sudoku entries to pay much mind.  

#pattern #sewing #Vogue